The better to sheathe a wooden bath from the outside. Materials for exterior decoration of the bath

In contrast to the equipment of residential premises in spa areas, internal and external energy-saving claddings play a completely different role. The relevance of the external thermal insulation of the walls of the bath depends, first of all, on the mode of its operation. In most cases, the procedure is not mandatory and requires a feasibility study. This review discusses the insulation of the bath from the outside with your own hands from an organizational and technological point of view.

If the owner assumes occasional use of the object for its intended purpose (no more than once a week), he expects the steam room to cool completely between sessions. That is, the internal insulation is equipped on the basis of rapid heating with a rise in temperature from the street to 60 ° C - 90 ° C. In this case, the installation of thermal insulation from the side of the street does not make sense: in winter period this measure will not save the building from freezing for 3 to 4 days. The cooling of the room will slow down, but in the end, it will be necessary to spend almost the same amount of energy on each heating as in the absence of external insulation.

When using the steam room every 2 - 3 days, the question "how to sheathe the bath outside?" is no longer idle for materials with high heat capacity (brick, concrete). Daily operation (for example, for commercial purposes) makes it advisable to cover the bath with insulating materials on both sides, regardless of the type of load-bearing walls.

Another option for using a bath that justifies double-sided insulation, regardless of the heat capacity and vapor permeability of the draft walls, is to conduct several paired sessions in one day. At the same time, the bathing day itself may not be repeated often.

Sealing the joints of the bath-log house

You should immediately make a reservation: the insulation of a wooden bath from the side of the street is, as a rule, not in the installation of additional layers, but in sealing the interventional joints. This operation does not refer to external insulation, but to the provision of basic thermal insulation, the role of which is played by the structural material. Nevertheless, if the owner of the log cabin has enough time, he may well caulk it qualitatively on his own.

Outside insulation with jute rope

The seals laid at the joints of the logs work as a hydrophobic element and a wind barrier. They eliminate heat transfer by convection and, at the same time, are decorative elements emphasizing the aesthetics of a log structure. Specialists involved in the arrangement of log cabins recommend using for external sealing jute cord.

In some cases, it is permissible to caulk a wooden bath from the outside with latex or rubber-based sealants. However, this is permissible only in those baths in which there is no interior decoration. The condition is related to the prevention of moisture condensation between the wall beams, which can be provoked by sharing internal insulation and external vapor-tight sealing.

Continuous external thermal insulation depending on the material of the load-bearing walls

How to insulate the bath from the outside, if it is not intended to seal the joints, but to install a thermally insulating lining? Consider the types of load-bearing walls:

Before warming the bath, a competent calculation of the thickness of the insulation layer is necessary

• Brickwork or concrete structure. The types are combined into one category, since they belong to inertial buildings that have a high heat capacity and a high allowable moisture accumulation.

technique and features of warming a brick bath

• Foam concrete and gas blocks. They occupy an intermediate position between log cabins and brick baths.
• Srub. Requires strict consideration of the relative vapor permeability of each layer of the insulating sandwich.

Brick or concrete walls

Of the two ways to select a heater relative to the structural material, it makes sense to use the dew point shift technique. What does this mean? A thermal insulator with a vapor permeability close to zero is taken (for example, polystyrene foam) and glued to the draft wall. The inner insulation also contains a vapor-tight layer - a foil infrared screen. It turns out that the moisture condensing in the thickness of concrete or brick has nowhere to evaporate.

To prevent waterlogging, it is necessary to ensure that the dew point is located outside the draft wall - in polystyrene foam. To do this, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the outer insulation to approximately the value of the thermal resistance of the wall 4.0 - 5.0.

In central Russia, this corresponds to a thickness of XPS boards of 200 mm.

The material will cost a decent amount, but the budget for the work will be less than when implementing the technology of a ventilated facade (with mineral wool, air gap and molded finishing cladding). In addition, self-pasting walls with XPS boards is much more affordable for a non-professional than any other methods of external thermal insulation. During everyday operation of such a steam room during inner lining only a reflective screen and clapboard lining should be left. For the mode of paired sessions 2-3 times a week, it makes sense to divide the estimated thickness of the insulation into 2 layers: 150 mm for the outer surface and 50 mm for the inner lining.

The choice of finishing from the side of the street should be correlated only with the budget, the possibility of independent implementation and personal aesthetic preferences. From the point of view of the operation of an insulating sandwich, the physical properties of this layer are absolutely not important. If there is no desire to mess with plaster, you can finish the bath with any relatively light slabs or panels that are moisture resistant. The main thing is not to use chemicals that can destroy polystyrene foam.

Foam concrete and gas blocks

Insulation of the bath from the outside with polystyrene foam

How to sheathe a bath built from cellular materials? For independent holding work should stop at the same polystyrene foam.

The only difference with the previous version of the bath will be that the thermal calculation will require a smaller thickness of the XPS layer (120 - 150 mm), all other things being equal - the climate, the thickness of the masonry and the given value of the heat transfer resistance of the wall sandwich.

log cabin

This idea may seem strange, but sometimes a log house needs a “fur coat”. Especially when it comes to re-equipping a bath with a change in the purpose of the object (for example, from personal to commercial). The only insulation whose vapor permeability is higher than that of wood is mineral wool. However, the downside of this venture is associated with the high complexity of the work. You will need:

1. Stuff horizontal slats to form a crate.
2. Lay rolled or slab mineral wool.
3. hang windproof membrane, grabbing it with a stapler to the crate.
4. Mount the vertical slats of the counter-lattice, which form a ventilation gap and serve for mounting the finishing coating (for example, wooden or plastic lining).
5. Lay a high-diffusion membrane (hydrobarrier) along the vertical rails.
6. Install decorative cover.

Myths about the goals and results of external insulation

Often in informational texts and on forums you can find the following statements:

• “It is imperative to insulate a brick bath from the outside. Otherwise, it will be problematic to warm it up to the required temperature.” Note: the speed of heating the steam room to a much greater extent depends on the competent arrangement of internal insulation.
• “For expanded polystyrene, it is best to use the “wet facade” finishing system so that the wall “breathes”. Note: XPS boards have practically zero vapor permeability, which cannot be increased by any coatings.
• “It is relatively cheap to buy foam glass granulate and use it as a filler for heat-saving cladding blocks.” Note: such a granulate is both in the form of fillings and as the basis for the formation cellular concrete an order of magnitude inferior to the heat-shielding properties of block foam glass. In fact, it is no better than expanded clay.

Video: the main mistakes in the external insulation of the walls of a wooden bath

conclusions

If it is initially planned to insulate the outer surface of the walls, it is necessary to carry out a series of thermal calculations and coordinate the parameters of all layers - from the infrared screen of the steam room to decorative finishes facade. At the same time, the amounts saved on energy saving should be commensurate with the difference in capital expenditures, taking as the goal the achievement of a certain payback period.

There are no bad or good heaters. The temperature and humidity regime of multilayer walls is provided by the entire system, and not by one insulator. Therefore, an approximate schedule for the operation of a steam room should determine the choice of not only facings, but also the structural material of the walls. The denser the schedule, the more in demand is the inertia (high heat capacity) and high permissible moisture saturation:

• for daily sessions - brick or concrete walls;
• 2 - 3 days a week - walls made of foam concrete, foam glass, gas blocks;
• once a week - log cabins and frame baths.

Internal insulation can be chosen based on convenience self-assembly. With the outside, the situation is much stricter. Several characteristics of the insulator should be coordinated with the properties of the structural material of the walls at once.

September 3, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Warming the bath outside with your own hands (as well as high-quality thermal insulation inside) is a prerequisite for maintaining high temperature in the steam room and ensure a comfortable microclimate in other rooms. Even walls made of energy-efficient materials (porous concrete, hollow ceramic bricks, glued beams) need to be insulated. And structures erected by traditional technology, it concerns in the first place.

In this article I will give the algorithms that I myself use when performing external and internal thermal insulation of baths and saunas.

Thermal insulation of load-bearing structures

Exterior wall cladding with polymer panels

When starting thermal insulation work in the bath, many focus only on internal thermal insulation. This approach is fundamentally wrong, because after doing high-quality insulation with our own hands outside, we will provide additional protection from thermal energy losses.

This means that in order to get the heat we need in the steam room and comfortable coolness in the dressing room, it will be possible to spend less energy (it doesn’t matter - firewood, gas or electricity). So the cost of insulation from the outside will pay off, and in the case of a bathhouse even faster than with a living space.

Thermal insulation of walls can be carried out according to two schemes. There is no universal option, but I prefer to finish buildings made of brick or concrete blocks with polystyrene or polystyrene followed by plaster, and to carry out the insulation of a wooden bath using the “ventilated facade” technology.

First, let's figure out how brick bath need to prepare for finishing:

1. I clean the walls, checking the seams between the blocks and, if necessary, repairing them.
2. The outer surface is primed, protecting the brick from efflorescence, fungus, and improving adhesion with adhesive composition. If we neglect the primer, then we will not have time to blink an eye, as from a brick under a layer of insulation with high vapor barrier characteristics (and polymer plates do not allow air to pass through very well), salt will appear, destroying the bearing surfaces.
3. I install a U-shaped base profile along the lower edge of the wall: it will prevent the insulation from sliding down under its own weight.

1. Panels of heat-insulating material - polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or dense mineral wool - are glued to the walls in a checkerboard pattern, using an adhesive mixture based on high-quality cement with waterproofing additives.

You need to choose a heater for a bath according to its resistance to heat transfer: this indicator depends on the type of material and on its thickness. If planned internal thermal insulation, then 100 mm of polystyrene foam or 50 mm of extruded polystyrene is sufficient from the outside.

1. Next, I take a puncher with a long drill and drill through the insulation so that the drill goes deep into the wall by 40-50 mm. I fix the foam plastic with dowel-umbrellas, reinforcing the adhesive fasteners.

1. I perform plastering of the insulation, reinforcing the structure with an alkali-resistant polystyrene mesh.
2. I grout the plaster and paint the walls on the outside with weather-resistant paint.

Frame facade

If the bath is made of timber or logs, or erected according to frame technology, then I prefer to equip the so-called ventilated facade. The obvious pole of this design is vapor permeability (it largely solves the problem of excess humidity in the room), so when deciding which insulation to choose for a frame bath, you should focus on mineral fiber-based plates.

The algorithm of work will differ significantly from the option described above:

1. To begin with, we need to put the walls themselves in order - clean, caulk the seams, treat all surfaces with antiseptic impregnations.

If there are signs of wood damage, then these areas must be sanitized, and with a strong manifestation of defects, the logs or beams must be replaced. All the same, it is pointless to insulate a rotten bath, since under a layer of heat-insulating material the process of wood destruction will go many times faster.

1. Then we install brackets on the walls, placing roofing material under their base or injure them.

1. We fasten the crate panels to the brackets. We make them either from a timber impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a galvanized steel profile. Despite the fact that the beam is more prone to deformation, I prefer to carry out the insulation of the bath exactly according to wooden crate: after all, metal conducts heat better and therefore it can become a “cold bridge” .

1. Next, we lay the heat-insulating material in the cells of the crate. Deciding which one is better for a frame bath, I settled on mineral wool of medium density (up to 45 kg / m3). But I know of cases when the place of basalt fiber plates on the walls outside (and also in the internal cavities of the frame) was sprayed with ecowool - five years have passed since the repair, and there are no complaints about the quality of insulation.

Mineral wool perfectly keeps in the cells due to its elasticity, but when compressed, it somewhat loses its heat-saving properties. To avoid this, it is worth making the frame in strict accordance with the dimensions of the mineral wool boards (standard - 600 mm), and in order to prevent the insulation from falling out, additionally fix it with several dish-shaped dowels.

1. Insulation for a frame, timber or log bath must be covered with a windproof superdiffusion membrane. This material must be vapor-permeable, otherwise moisture will accumulate under the skin and moisten the heat-insulating layer.
2. Further, it all depends on what dimensions our crate has. If we did it with a margin and there is a gap of at least 20 mm between the insulation layer and the edge of the frame, then we immediately proceed to the sheathing. If there is no reserve, then we press the heat-insulating panels with the bars of the counter-lattice (I use parts with a section of 40x40): a block house, a false beam or other decorative material will be attached to them.

Roof insulation

The non-insulated bath roof is a source of about 20-30% of heat loss. Of course, we can block some of them by performing thermal insulation of the floor, but it is also desirable to finish the roof slopes with materials with low thermal conductivity.

We act like this:

1. If there is no waterproofing layer under the roofing material (according to the mind, it must be there, but you never know!) - we lay a moisture-proof vapor-permeable membrane, passing it over the rafters. To do this, it is almost always necessary to dismantle at least part roofing material, therefore, the waterproofing procedure should be performed at the stage of construction of the structure.

1. The rafters themselves and the elements of the roofing sheathing are treated with an antiseptic (again, this must be done earlier).
2. In the gaps between the rafters on the inside, we lay the heat-insulating material. Optimal choice for do-it-yourself roof thermal insulation - basalt fiber in slabs or rolls with a thickness of 50 to 75 mm.
3. From the inside, we block the insulation with a vapor barrier film, which we fix directly on the rafters. To further secure the entire structure, we either stuff the transverse bars of the counter-lattice onto the rafters, or we perform the lining of the roof with clapboard - in the second case, we will get a fairly neat looking attic.

Interior decoration

We warm the floor

The answer to the question of how to insulate a bath correctly from the inside is no less complicated. This set of procedures usually begins with work on the floor covering:

1. We cover the concrete base with roofing material, on which we install support bars for the log.

If the floor in the bath is done on the ground, then the soil must be compacted and covered with a layer of sand and gravel mixture with a thickness of 15 to 40 cm. The bedding is carefully rammed, and for greater stability it can be concreted.

1. We lay logs on the support bars, the ends of which we fix on the walls of the room.
2. We cover the space between the lags with a layer of expanded clay. The thicker this layer is, the less heat loss through the lower layer of air in the room will be.
3. We block expanded clay with a waterproofing film. In principle, it is possible to equip a rough flooring over the expanded clay layer - but this is not necessary.
4. Between the lags we lay panels of heat-insulating material. If we are finishing a dressing room or a rest room, then you can take polystyrene foam or even get by with foam plastic, but only mineral wool is suitable for a steam room - it is important that the material is immune to high temperatures.

1. We lay a waterproofing vapor-tight membrane on top of the insulation. The quality of hydro and vapor barrier is very important: by providing it, we minimize the risk of contact of the insulation with water.
2. Next, we lay the draft floor, and then equip flooring solid board or ceramic tiles. The board is “warmer” and more pleasant to the touch, but the tile is easier to clean and less prone to swelling when wet, so the choice is yours!

Finishing the walls

Sheathing the steam room, rest room and dressing room with our own hands, we must take care not only of their insulation, but also of protecting the thermal insulation from moisture and high temperatures. The steam room from this point of view is the most complex premises, therefore, I will talk about technology using its example:

1. I prime the walls with a moisture-proof antiseptic composition.
2. I mount the crate bars on the walls in such a way that the distance from the edge of the bar to the wall is approximately equal to or slightly more than the thickness of the heat-insulating material.

When choosing which is better to take a heater for a steam room, you need to remember that we need a non-combustible material with low thermal conductivity. Polymer plates are not suitable here, and I would not risk it with ecowool, so there is no alternative to mineral fiber up to 100 - 150 mm thick (less can be in the dressing room).

1. I lay the plates or rolls of insulation in the cells of the crate, making sure that the fibers experience a minimum compressive load.
2. Top with thermal insulation vapor barrier material. For most rooms, an ordinary membrane is also suitable, but in a steam room a foil film or polyethylene foam with a metallized coating will be appropriate. Yes, the price of such products is quite high, but in addition to protecting mineral wool from moisture, they also act as a thermal mirror, reflecting heat into the steam room and providing solid energy savings.

1. Separately, I insulate the slopes: both windows and windows need to be made as airtight as possible, which will reduce the risk of drafts (in the bath, and on a steamed body - an almost guaranteed cold), as well as reduce heat loss.
2. Next, I equip the counter-lattice: stuffing thin slats onto the frame, which will ensure the formation of an air gap between the skin and the insulation.

1. I install decorative panels on the counter-lattice. For a steam room, lining with clapboard made of alder, poplar or other hardwood, but for rooms where the air does not warm up to such a high temperature, you can take quite cheap pine.
2. I also impregnate the decorative sheathing with a moisture-proof compound to prevent it from rotting and reduce the deformation of wet wood during temperature changes.

Minimizing losses through the ceiling

And log, and frame, and brick baths also need thermal insulation of the ceiling. But if inside the ceiling is insulated approximately according to the same technology as the walls, then outside, i.e. from the side of the attic, you can use another technique:

1. We lay two layers of fiberglass on top of the draft ceiling - it will act as a barrier to liquid.
2. We prepare a heat-insulating solution: in a 1: 1 ratio, mix clay with sawdust or chopped straw, then fill the material with water and mix until a thick dough.

1. We pour the solution between the ceiling beams, making sure that the liquid does not seep through the fiberglass into the lower rooms.
2. We dry the clay (this is not a quick matter, it can take several weeks), and then we lay a layer of dense insulation.
3. We close the heat-insulating material with a moisture-proof membrane, after which we fill in the cement fixing screed.

Thanks to this technology, we form a multilayer cake with our own hands, which practically does not let heat through.

Conclusion

Bath insulation is a whole range of works that (of course, if implemented correctly) will minimize all heat losses, reduce the cost of heating a steam room, and most importantly, ensure a steady heat, for which we, in fact, go to the bath!

The video in this article will help you understand the nuances of the technology, and with complex questions, you can always contact me or my colleagues in the comments below.

September 3, 2016

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The wide recognition and utilitarian popularity of the building material is eloquently indicated by the way its name is simplified in everyday life. It is so in demand that it is no longer necessary to pronounce the original phrase that characterizes its features. This happened with profiled steel sheet, which entered our lexicon as corrugated board.

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Cold rolled high strength steel sheet product - corrugated board acquired unprecedented strength for due to the rigidity of the corrugated wave, different heights and profiles. For half a century, he has been mastering more and more new areas of application. First as a roofing material, recently, due to the expansion of ventilated facade technology, as a wall material: independent or as part of a panel "sandwich".

Features of wall profiled sheet

To create flat surfaces of walls and facades in a wall profiled sheet, a low trapezoidal wave with a pronounced front side or a two-sided one is used to build partitions. In its finished form, the cladding with such material is similar to siding, and the decorative finish of the polymer coating allows you to give the building the appearance of wood, stone or painted in various colors.

GOST R 52146-2003 regulates the composition and processing of the initial material of the profiled sheet for hot galvanizing or polymer coating. The most popular brands of corrugated board for walls are C8, C21 and C44. Labeling provides the consumer with the necessary information about the product., so the symbols C21-0.4-1000 / 1051-12000 mean:

• C - wall profiled sheet;
• 21 - corrugation height (in mm);
• 0.4 - sheet thickness (in mm);
• 1000/1051 - working and total sheet width (in mm);
• 12,000 - sheet length (in mm).

Taking into account the specifics of the installation of corrugated board - overlapping (per wave), manufacturers usually indicate the full and working width of the sheet in the price lists. This helps to correctly calculate the consumption of material.

The higher the corrugation, the stronger the sheet. The strength of the sheet is significantly affected by the thickness of the material. Therefore, a C21 grade sheet will be stronger than a C8 wall panel, and C21-0.4 will yield in strength to C21-0.7.

Profiled sheeting of the C44 brand, taking into account its resistance to loads, can even be used as a roofing material or for structural elements.

Builders of regions with severe winters use ready-made "sandwich" panels with corrugated board cladding. Such construction materials have an inner (10cm) and outer (15cm) insulation layer. A profiled sheet, laid horizontally or vertically, in this case acts as a supporting element to reinforce the structure.

Decking is convenient the fact that its length can be selected depending on the size of the surface to be faced, positioned along the height of the wall or width. For greater decorative expressiveness, design projects use variants of the diagonal arrangement of profiled sheets.

Where is wall cladding used?

Initially, when only galvanizing was the main way to protect corrugated sheets from corrosion and environmental influences, corrugated board was used for the construction of fences, temporary partitions, utility and industrial buildings.

Production success in the creation of new polymer compositions - plastisol, polyester, polyvinyl fluoride, pural - made it possible to develop a coating for profiled sheets that can not only perform the protective function of the base, but also solve aesthetic problems in construction, which is especially important when facing facades and internal walls. Modern wall panels successfully used for decoration of architectural objects for private and civil purposes:

• wooden and brick houses of private ownership;
• devices of hinged ventilated walls;
• for the construction of garages;
• lining of outbuildings;
• internal partitions;
• installation of fences and fences;
• for the construction of hangars and warehouses;
• cladding of public and administrative facilities.

What are the advantages of corrugated wall cladding

1. Strengthening the structural elements of a small building.
2. Protection of the facade from external influences, increasing its shelf life.
3. Creation of ventilation of walls to prevent the appearance of condensate, fungus, mold.
4. Effective reception of thermal insulation of walls.
5. Solving the problem of soundproofing.
6. Widespread use of design solutions to improve the appearance of the building.

At the same time, profiled gives the building its best performance characteristics:

1. Light weight, which does not increase the load on the walls and foundation.
2. Tightness when using different types of sealants.
3. Excellent ink retention.
4. Easy to dismantle and repair.
5. Easy care (easy to clean).
6. Significantly increases the life of the facade (for wooden walls - by 20 years).
7. Successfully imitates natural materials: wood, stone, painted board.

What you need to cover the house with corrugated board, if you set to work yourself

1. Choose the type of facing sheet, based on the type of building, the tasks for its insulation, the creation of ventilation gaps, aesthetic preferences.
2. Decide in the direction of the sheets during installation (vertically - more reliable protection from precipitation, horizontally - the frame will be stiffer, diagonally).
3. Calculate the consumption of material, taking into account the overlapping technology and a 10% margin.
4. Consider the features of the facade decoration (combination of material, texture, location).
5. Prepare additional elements (standard metal parts for finishing the basement, corners, window and door openings, closing possible gaps, downpipes).
6. Learn the installation technology and prepare the right tool.
7. Install corrugated board cladding.

Mounting diagram

Apply 2 ways of finishing facades:

• wall sheathing immediately on a prepared basis;
• sheathing of each prefabricated element of the future wall separately.

1. A frame (crate) is mounted on the wall with a step of crossbars of 50-60 cm.
2. Installation of the cladding starts from the right upper corner walls, if the sheets are equal to the height of the wall. When overlapping vertically, the first row will be the bottom row from the corner of the wall. Fasten with self-tapping screws into the drilled holes.
3. The next sheet is overlapped, preventing distortions.
4. Gaps of 2-4 cm above and below are left for the ventilation system.
5. Between the wall and the profiled sheet, it is possible to lay a heat insulator on a rolled sealant.

Algorithm of actions for cladding facades with corrugated board

Wooden house (first way).

1. Creation, with a building level check, of static steel structures, in the worst case - wooden beams treated with an antiseptic. (step no more than 1m).
2. Fastening the vapor barrier film with dish-shaped dowels or self-tapping screws with plastic gaskets.
3. Installation of profiled sheets with a riveter or screwdriver. Mounting distance - 20-30cm.
4. Installation of additional elements and welded frames for downpipes.

Brick house (second way).

1. Creation of a welded frame from reinforcing pipes, strengthen the welding points metal corner, preventing deformation from compression.
2. Creation of a base in the form of a grid (with cells 20x20cm) from welded rods welded to the ends of the pipes. (it will act as a ventilation layer).
3. Insulation with film materials or boards (drywall).
4. Installing the structure vertically with a level alignment. Wall mount.
5. Installation of sheets (see Wooden house).
6. Primer painting of fastener heads.
7. Installation of additional elements.

1. To prevent the appearance of a gap at the junction of the sheets, it is necessary to accurately determine the top edge of the overlap and the bottom. The top one will always be a few mm wider. Check before laying sheets!
2. To maintain the tightness of the corrugated board connection, its fasteners must be carried out sequentially: along the lower points of the profile, in the overlap - along the top! the next sheet - again on the bottom.
3. The profiled sheet cannot be fastened with nails. Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled!
4. The process of sheathing a brick house with corrugated board is much more complicated than a wooden one. The invited specialist will do this work, estimating it at 200 rubles per square meter.
5. Given the variety of polymer coatings for corrugated board, the basement of the house can be finished with corrugated board under wild stone, make walls in ivory color and cover the roof with a red-brown sheet. It will look very impressive.

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Decking is a versatile material. It is used for roofing, creating, and it is also used for sheathing the walls of a building. But in order to pass self-plating, you need to know exactly some of the nuances of the work - for example, what kind of material is suitable for wall cladding, what tools are needed for installation, etc. Let us consider in more detail how to properly sheathe the walls of the house with corrugated board.

The choice of corrugated board for walls

First of all, you need to decide on all the available assortment on the market and choose the material that is best suited for facade work. Manufacturers produce three types of profiled sheet:

• Decking marked "C" designed for finishing facades, walls and creating small fences
• Decking marked "H" used for roofing
• Decking marked "NS" is mixed in its purpose, can be used for different types of finishing work

The best option for finishing the facade of the building are profiled sheets marked "C". Accordingly, several subspecies of this material can be selected on the market - C8, C10, C15, etc. The materials do not have significant differences, but from the point of view of a professional, some important nuances can be noticed:

• C8 sheets are light, strong and thin. Its main advantage is its low weight, which allows you to quickly and easily perform finishing work.
• Profiled C10 has a relatively wide wave, and the thickness of the sheet is greater than that of corrugated board marked C8. Such material is perfect for finishing the facade of the building. Due to the weight and strength, C10 profiled sheets can be used in all types of work where a vertical installation of a finishing material is required.
• Profiled C15 also successfully used in finishing works due to the characteristics of the wave, the thickness of the material and the size of the sheets. Like other facade materials, C15 profiled sheets are galvanized and polymer coated.

It is worth noting that other markings are also suitable for cladding a house - there are profiled sheets C13, C18, C20, etc. on the market. The further choice of material depends on the builder himself - the sheets differ in the height of the wave, its width and the thickness of the material itself.

How to calculate the required amount of profiled sheet for wall cladding?

Material selected? In this case, it is necessary to calculate how much it will be needed for the walls of the building. First of all, you need to know the length of the profiled sheets. Based on this value, the volume of the material is also calculated. Consider this process more details:

• The surface area to be covered must be determined. Let's say one of the walls of the house has a length of 6 meters and a height of 2.8 meters. The length of the other wall is 8 meters, and the height is similar - 2.8 meters. Thus, we calculate the total area of ​​​​the surface to be covered: (6X2.8) + (8X2.8) = 39.2 square meters of the area of ​​\u200b\u200btwo perpendicular walls. Since the house has four walls, we double the figure - it turns out 78.4 sq.m.
• Since there are door and window openings, it is necessary to calculate their area and subtract from the total surface area that was calculated earlier. Suppose there is one door (width - 1.4 m, height - 1.9 m) and six window openings, each of which has parameters 1.5X1.3 m. In total, the total surface area that does not need to be covered with a profiled sheet, will be equal to the sum of the areas of all openings - 14.36 sq. m. This indicator is subtracted from the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe surface to be covered. As a result, it turns out that the ideal finishing area is 64.04 sq.m.
• The next step is to calculate the area of ​​one profiled sheet. Next, you need to divide the total surface area by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone sheet - this way the builder will know how many sheets are needed to finish the house
• The area of ​​the pediment is calculated. According to the standard formula, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pediment is calculated, which will need to be covered with corrugated board, after which the result is multiplied by two and added to the total area

It must be remembered that in the process of work it may be necessary additional material. Therefore, the master, after completing all the calculations, should increase the result by 10-15% - the final number will mean the amount of material with a margin.

How to sheathe a house with corrugated board?

After preparing the required amount of profiled sheet, you can proceed with the installation work. As a rule, the facade of a building consists of the following "layers":

• Vapor barrier material
• thermal insulation
• wind barrier
• Metal or wooden frame
• Decking

Sheathing of the pediment with corrugated board

The procedure is no different from the standard sheathing of the house. Initially, the pediment is subjected to reliable waterproofing, after which a metal or wooden frame according to the technology described above, and then sheets of insulation are laid out and sheathing is carried out with corrugated board.

The only difficulty lies in correct pruning gable material. But with the right markup and the necessary tools, you can not worry about this nuance.

Where else is corrugated board used?

The material is often used for sheathing hangars, garages, storage facilities and other buildings. So, the hangar can be used as a storage or warehouse, parking or other utility room. And the best cladding option for this building is corrugated board - installation is carried out in a matter of hours, immediately on frame structure, the features of the material allow for sheathing of both arched and standard designs.

Decking can also be used in the construction of any other buildings on your own site. For example, you can build a full-fledged. Quick installation, reliability, strength and excellent performance properties allow you to make lightweight and durable structures.

Decking is often used as a roofing material. Roofing from corrugated board is of high quality and reliable. But the roof will not be considered complete without one very important element, namely without a wind bar. helps to protect the roof from moisture and gusts of wind. And also it provides a perfect connection with the spotlights.

There are other nuances in laying corrugated board on the roof. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the installation of corrugated board with your own hands. It contains step-by-step instructions, as well as installation diagrams for corrugated board.

Video about sheathing a house with corrugated board with your own hands

Training film for the installation of corrugated board. How to sheathe the walls of the house with corrugated board.

Thinking about the cladding of the facade, every homeowner asks the question - what material can sheathe the facade inexpensively? Recently, an inexpensive and aesthetically attractive material called profiled sheet has been very popular. From this article you will learn how to sheathe the facade with corrugated board and what nuances it is important to consider.

Hinged ventilated facades are used in the construction of new and reconstruction of old facades of buildings. Thus, the thermal insulation and aesthetic qualities of the house are improved. Previously, it was believed that only industrial, public and administrative buildings can be sheathed with a profiled sheet, but nowadays private houses are also sheathed with this finishing material. Tastefully chosen material will transform your home beyond recognition at minimal cost.

Choosing a material

Before starting work, you need to purchase corrugated board. You will need a wall profiled sheet. It has its own marking, which is indicated by the letter "C". To buy enough material, measure the walls of the house. If we are talking about cladding the facade of a wooden house, then it can be done both horizontally and vertically.

To ensure free circulation of air between the corrugated board and the insulation material, an air gap must be organized. Thus, the accumulation of condensate becomes impossible. This prevents the development of fungi, microorganisms and mold, which leads to the gradual destruction of the walls. The sheathing will not be complete without the installation of additional elements, for example, for framing door frames and windows.

Additional elements are:

• gutter,
• basement,
• corner, ridge roofing,
• elements that close the gaps between the sheets,
• elements for framing pipes.

Additional elements of the roof can serve as decoration of the facade. They can be dyed in the colors you want.

Preparation for sheathing

Prepare a place so that you can spend installation work. To do this, clean up the work area, remove all unnecessary items. In addition, you need to rid the walls of protruding elements such as window frames, outdoor units air conditioners and antennas. Install scaffolding along the walls.

To cover the house with a profiled sheet, you will need a grinder, a screwdriver, a puncher, pliers, a hammer, measuring tools and a chisel. Moreover, at this stage you need to clean the walls of dirt and debris, as well as the remnants of the old building finishes. Obvious wall defects should be repaired.

Making markup

Before sheathing the facade with a profiled sheet, markup should be carried out according to a previously drawn up drawing, which should reflect all the features of the house. To do this, measure the dimensions of the house, taking into account the door and window openings and other structural elements. After that, apply markings directly on the walls of the house, which will indicate the location of the guide profiles. So you can choose the most optimal step for their placement. According to the standard, this step ranges from 0.4 to 0.8 m. The choice of step depends on the loads exerted on the structure and the type of profiled sheet.

Start marking from the window and door slopes and corners of the house. This is due to the fact that all joints must be closed with additional elements. They, in turn, are also attached to the guide profiles. To make the marking even, carry it out using a plumb line or a building level. The optimal suspension spacing is 60 cm. To achieve symmetry, outline their location in advance.

Note! Suspensions of adjacent guide profiles must be shifted vertically so that they are installed in a checkerboard pattern. This will make the frame more rigid.

We make a frame

Initially install wall hangers, for this use a puncher. To reduce vibrations and noise, fix them through isolone gaskets. Then fix the vertical profile guides on the hangers.

Note! All vertical rails must be installed in the same plane. In order to achieve this result, install the end guides along the pre-tensioned cord. Then you need to install all the other elements.

To make the frame as rigid as possible, horizontal jumpers should be installed between the vertical guides. Such an event is only advisable if the finished structure is excessively heavy. If you decide to insulate the walls, then after installing the frame, lay the heat-insulating material. It can be foam or mineral wool. To protect the heat-insulating layer from aggressive external influences, cover it with a waterproofing vapor-permeable film.

After installing the frame and carrying out heat and waterproofing, install shaped elements and extensions. Among them are various connections, special corner profiles, basement drains and more.

We sheathe with a profiled sheet

The cladding of the facade should begin from the bottom of the house, that is, from the foundation. To do this, install the profiled sheet in the profile cavity and secure it with self-tapping screws with a sealing gasket.

Note! The corrugated board should be fixed to the frame so that the self-tapping screw enters the profile plane by at least 20 mm.

Mounting screws are screwed into lower part profiled waves. In addition, they should be located in one line, for this, use a chopping cord. The pitch between the screws is selected individually. Use a grinder to cut sheets. To make the facade even, mount the corrugated board according to the level. To avoid deformation due to linear expansion, leave a gap of 3-4 mm between the sheet and internal parts dobor. The following sheets are mounted in the same way. Each element of corrugated board is superimposed on half of the wave of the previous one; this measure minimizes the risk of precipitation under the structure.

If you have any questions about this topic, then write comments to the article.

Video

See below for a video instruction on cladding the facade with a profiled sheet:

It very rarely happens that the owner of the house, having built the building, leaves it as it is.

Without performing exterior wall decoration.

This is done when the walls of the house are lined with facing bricks or wood.

Wood is a very beautiful material.

Yes, and additional insulation is not required for such a house.

Wood will qualitatively protect it both from the cold and from the winds.

They do this for various reasons:

• warming. Experience shows that if the walls of the house are additionally sheathed on the outside with a special material with an additional layer of insulation, then the energy efficiency of the house increases significantly. Heating costs are reduced accordingly;
• improving the appearance of the building. After all, the aesthetic component is very important. Every developer wants the house to be not only reliable, comfortable, but also beautiful;
• increased resistance to aggressive manifestations external environment. By protecting the walls of the house from the effects of precipitation, you can extend the life of the wall material by an order of magnitude, maintain its strength and prevent destruction.

Decking for wall cladding at home

Profiled steel sheet is a high-quality universal building material that is used in various construction works.

It is used mainly for roofing works, production of fences, for wall cladding inside and outside.

This material is distinguished by its attractive appearance, ease of installation, reliability and affordable price.

A very wide range of colors of profiled sheets does not limit the imagination.

The professional flooring is ideal material for exterior wall decoration.

The exceptional resistance of the material is due to the presence of a protective zinc coating and a high-quality polymer coating layer.

The professional flooring reliably protects walls of the building from any negative influence.

Unlike others finishing materials, an air layer is arranged between the wall and the corrugated board, which provides reliable ventilation of the space under the material.

So condensation will not accumulate and mold will never form.

By the way, air also plays the role of additional insulation.

When using corrugated board, you can get almost perfect sound and heat insulation of the building.

Over other finishing materials, corrugated board has quite a few advantages:

Choosing the right material for wall cladding

To date, corrugated board manufacturers have mastered the production of three types of sheets:

• for roofing;
• for walls;
• universal.

Accordingly, products for various purposes and labeled differently.

Profiled sheets differ from each other in the thickness of the steel sheet used in the manufacture and in the geometry of the profile.

It depends on the geometry, what will be the mounting height and width of the sheet.

Roofing corrugated board is marked with the letter H. It is used for roofing, but in some cases it is also used on walls.

Wall corrugated board is marked with the letter C.

If CH is marked on the profiled sheet, then this is - versatile material, and it can be used anywhere.

The most popular for wall cladding are profiled sheets C8, C21, C44.

The price of one linear meter of corrugated board in average is 250 rubles.

Preparatory work before wall cladding

Good preparation is the key to success.

The more carefully you prepare everything, the faster and better the installation process will be.

First of all, you should prepare the tool.

You understand that you can't do the job without a tool.

You will need:

• hammer;
• pliers;
• chisel;
• tape measure or meter;
• screwdriver;
• Bulgarian;
• perforator.

Also, in addition to the professional sheet itself, you need to purchase:

• H-bars;
• U-slats;
• start profile;
• finishing profile;
• internal and external corners;
• window sills, cornices, ebbs and other decorative elements.

Now you should prepare the place where it will be necessary to install the corrugated board.

From the working area, remove all items that you do not need during installation.

Walls should be cleaned as much as possible.

First of all, remove everything that is installed on them: window frames, external air conditioner units, antennas, etc.

If the house has several floors, then you should take care of scaffolding in advance.

Because the usual "goat" may not be enough for you.

The surface of the wall should be cleaned of dirt, debris, elements of the old finish.

If there are defects on the sections of the wall, then they must be repaired!

After installing the profiled sheets, this will be difficult to do.

Photos of house cladding

The technology of sheathing a house with corrugated board

markup

To ensure that profiled sheets are mounted on the wall quickly and with high quality, you need to markup.

It would be nice if a draft drawing was drawn up before the work was done, reflecting all the features.

First you need to measure the overall dimensions of the building.

Take into account the location of door and window openings.

Then you should mark the places where the guide profiles are to be installed.

In the future, we will have to attach sheets to these elements.

Usually profiles are placed in increments of 0.4 - 0.8 meters.

The step size depends on what type of sheets will be used.

Marking starts from the corner and slopes of doorways.

This is required by the technology of wall cladding with profiled sheets.

After all, all joints are equipped with additional decorative elements, which are also fixed to the profiles.

In order to avoid difficulties during installation, a plumb line should be used when marking the installation sites of the profiles.

Installing the supporting frame

The manufacture of the frame should be treated with the utmost responsibility.

After all, it is the basis on which the strength and reliability of the skin depends.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• holes are drilled in pre-marked places on the wall with a puncher and wall hangers are installed. To reduce the level of vibration and noise that the profiled sheet can transmit to the building envelope, the suspensions should be fixed through special isolon gaskets;
• now it is necessary to fix the vertical profile guides to the hangers using self-tapping screws. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the location of all elements occurs in the same plane. To do this, first install the extreme guides, between which the cord is pulled. All other elements align with this cord;
• if the need arises, then horizontal jumpers are mounted between the vertical guides. So the frame is given greater rigidity. For this purpose, special "crabs" or the same guide profiles are used, in which side shelves are cut out.

After the frame elements are installed, a heat insulator is laid between the profiles.

As a rule, mineral wool or polystyrene is now used.

The heat insulator is covered with a vapor-tight waterproofing film and corrugated board is installed.

Installation of corrugated board

Mount sheets start from the base point.

The building is at the bottom.

The corrugated board must be installed between the guide strips, and securely fastened with self-tapping screws.

When fixing the sheets, make sure that the screws enter the profile plane by at least 2 cm.

Mounting screws should be located at the bottom of the wave, which is in direct contact with the surface of the profile.

Self-tapping screws are placed on the same line, and they are aligned with the cord.

Between the "body" of the sheet and the inner part of the extensions, gaps of 3-4 mm should be left in order to completely eliminate the internal deformation of the material.

And yes, it's easy to install.

Everyone can do it on their own.

Special qualifications and training are not required.

The main thing to do is not to break the sequence of work, do not rush and use a plumb line and level.

And everything will work out!

Decking is a versatile material used not only in the construction of fences, but also in the process of sheathing houses. Among its advantages, we note affordable cost, ease of installation, strength and long term operation. We will consider how to sheathe a house with the help of corrugated board below.

Sheathing a house with corrugated board: the advantages of this type of finish

When choosing the type of finishing for the facade of a building, one should take into account the individual characteristics of the area on which it is located, the financial condition of its owners, as well as the appearance of the resulting coating.

Decking is a fairly popular material used to decorate houses and cottages. Among its advantages we note:

• high level of mechanical strength and elasticity;
• this material is quite easy to care for, it washes well and does not accumulate dust;
• the building has an attractive and neat appearance;
• the material is affordable;
• corrugated board is easy to mount and easy to dismantle, if necessary;
• in addition, among its advantages, we note resistance to fading, corrosion, temperature changes and ultraviolet radiation.

However, the facade trimmed with this material has some disadvantages:

• it gets very hot under the influence of temperature, if you touch it, there is a risk of burns;
• it is resistant to corrosion, however, if you cut it with a grinder, then when heated, the galvanized coating is destroyed and the material becomes rusty;
• during heavy rain, there are unpleasant sounds that are heard in the house.

Sheathing a house with corrugated board photo and features of the choice of material

Of particular importance in the process of sheathing a house with corrugated board belongs to the quality of the material. After all, it is on this indicator that the final result of the work and the duration of the operation of the facade depend. profiled sheet to work with various surfaces, is available in three forms:

1. Marking C indicates the fact that the sheets are used for the manufacture of fences, facade surfaces, etc.

2. Marking H - implies the use of profiled sheets for roofing.

3. Universal NS sheets are used in both the first and second cases, as well as when performing other types of finishing work.

• sheets marked c8 are quite light, strong, but at the same time brittle, due to the low weight of the material, all installation work is carried out very quickly;
• corrugated board marked in c10 has a fairly wide wave, and a greater thickness than the previous version, with the help of this material, facade surfaces are just finished, due to its light weight and high strength, the material is used in the work of installing it in a vertical position;
• corrugated board marked in c15 has an even greater thickness, it is used if the place of its installation is subjected to additional mechanical stress.

In addition, there are many markings of this material, in relation to its thickness and performance characteristics. The choice of one or more material should be justified by the individual characteristics of the place of its installation.

Of considerable importance in the attractiveness of the building after its finishing is the color of the corrugated board. We recommend choosing natural colors such as green, blue, light blue, grey, white, brown, red. Try to choose a color according to the principle that the facade should not differ from the roof in color. It is better to give preference to a neutral color, against which certain elements of the facade will be highlighted.

The use of blue corrugated board allows you to give the building peace and elegance. In addition, this color is in perfect harmony with other shades, especially with white. If there are no small details on the walls, then it is possible to install corrugated board in purple or dark blue.

The roof and facade must be painted in shades derived from the same color. To highlight small details, use darker colors, and for coloring even and extensive surfaces, light colors are enough. Do not use more than three different shades when decorating a building. Do not choose too bright colors of the roof and facade, so as not to form a sharp contrast.

In addition, in the process of work, you will need to have:

• corners, with the help of which corner joints are formed;
• start and finish connectors;
• elements with the help of which door and window structures are made;
• special ebbs mounted on the surface of the base.

Calculation for the insulation of the house sheathing with corrugated board

After determining the type of material used in the sheathing process, the process of calculating its quantity follows. To do this, specify the length of one profiled sheet and determine its height. Depending on these indicators, it is necessary to calculate the amount of material required. To do this, use the diagram below:

1. Decide on the surface area to be covered. For example, the length of one wall in a house is 5 m, and the second is 7 m. At the same time, the height of the building is 3 m. In order to determine the surface area, it is enough (7x3) + (5x3) \u003d 36 square meters. Multiply this number by two, in order to add the area of ​​​​two more walls, you get 72 square meters.

2. Since there are also elements in the form of door and window openings on the walls, their area is calculated from the total number. To do this, measure the height and width of windows and doors, multiply the height by the width and add all the figures in total. The resulting number is subtracted from the total area of ​​the house. Thus, it is possible to obtain the ideal finishing area. For example, if the door area is 1.5 square meters, the area is about 8 square meters, then you get 72-9.5 = 61.5.

3. Next, you should determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bprofiled sheets. For example, with their height of 3 m and length of 2 m, it will be 6 square meters. total area divided by this indicator 61.5 divided by 6 is 10.25 - the number of sheets for sheathing a house.

5. The received number of sheets should be increased by compensation costs in the form of 10-15%.

Decking for sheathing a house under a log

In order to increase the attractiveness of the building, it is sheathed with a corrugated board under a log. That is, as a result, the house has a log structure. This material is somewhat more expensive, a week of ordinary corrugated board. The structure of such a material contains not only metal, but also polymeric materials.

However, unlike real wood, this version of corrugated board does not need additional care, it reliably protects the building from external environmental factors.

The corrugated board is easy to install, imitates wood well, is used both for private and for country or country houses. For the manufacture of this material, homogeneous high-quality steel sheets are used, on which a special coating with a polymer base is applied.

Among the advantages of this material, we note:

• resistance to low temperatures, mechanical damage, dirt, dust, etc.;
• resistance to prolonged ultraviolet radiation, fire resistance provided by polymeric substances that are part of the corrugated board;
• environmental friendliness and harmlessness to the environment;
• the presence of a special locking connection, which is easy to install, but at the same time high reliability;
• a variety of colors and shades that mimic various types of wood.

The use of this material is possible in various climatic regions. With its help, it is possible to complete the sheathing of an old wooden house with corrugated board. In addition, they are used to construct fences and other protective structures.

How to assemble a frame for sheathing a house with corrugated board

In order to assemble a frame for house cladding using corrugated board, you will need:

• steel profiles acting as guides;
• profile hangers;
• dowels and nails with which the frame is mounted;
• self-tapping screws with which the corrugated board is mounted.

Please note that when sheathing a wooden house with corrugated board with your own hands, some materials will be superfluous. Since to fix the crate on wooden surface enough nails, unlike concrete or brick walls.

Initially, you should mark up for installing a profile for the crate. In relation to the markings, suspensions are installed that allow you to control the evenness of the resulting walls. The installation step of the profile is from half a meter to 70 cm. Before installing the profile, you should take care of the installation of waterproofing and thermal insulation. We recommend using a special diffusion membrane as a waterproofing material. Among thermal insulation materials, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene will be the best option.

Next, the profiles are fixed. At the same time, it is imperative to leave a gap between the thermal insulation and the corrugated board of 5 cm. Thus, the condensate formed due to the temperature difference will be removed through the air space.

For the manufacture of the frame, both wooden and steel type of profile are used. When installing wooden bars, you should pre-treat them with antiseptics that can extend the life of the tree. During the installation of a steel profile, you will need to have different kind brackets.

Initially, an insulating material is installed, in the form of a heater. For its fixation, fungal dowels are used. Next, you should install a vapor barrier and wind protection.

Technology for the execution of works on the sheathing of houses as a whole

After installing the frame, the process of direct sheathing of the house with the help of corrugated board follows. The sheets are installed with each other with a slight overlap, the width of which is equal to the width of one wave.

In order to fix the material on the surface, you should use special hardware in the form of roofing screws. Thus, the holes are drilled directly in the process of mounting the metal.

In order to seal the fixation points of the corrugated board, elements in the form of elastic washers should be used. They are installed under the screws.

For cutting sheets, use only a hacksaw or metal shears. The use of a grinder is unacceptable, as it violates the integrity of the anti-corrosion coating. Sheets, after a few weeks of use, will begin to rust.

Special additional elements should be installed on door and window openings. In the process of sheathing the pediment on the house, you should also ensure its waterproofing, install a frame made of metal or wood, install its insulation inside and mount the corrugated board. Please note that the material must be correctly cut under the gable. Therefore, this will require the presence of special measuring tools. Leveling the corrugated board is done using a level.

Installation of a professional flooring is carried out both in longitudinal, and in cross directions. The horizontal installation of the material is particularly rigid, and the vertical installation protects it from rain, mechanical stress, etc.

The installation step of the screws is about 30 cm. After installing the corrugated board, it is necessary to check the strength of all joints and paint the joints between the joints.

Sheathing of a brick house with corrugated board

sheathing brick buildings it is more difficult than wooden ones, since special fasteners will be required to fix the crate on their surface. Besides, Special attention should be given to the strength of the frame. For these purposes, metal pipes should be connected to each other by welding, and then these connections should be strengthened with steel corners.

Weld a metal mesh, with a cell width of about 20 cm. As a heater for a brick house, it is enough to use plasterboard or wooden boards or a special film for insulation. The grid is fixed on the surface. After that, the installation of corrugated board is carried out, while the overlap is about 40 cm. In order for the surface to be rigid, use self-tapping screws about 15 mm long to fix the sheets. Next, coat the rivet points with a primer to match the color of the facade.

In order for the temperature to be maintained in the bath for as long as possible, and the costs of maintaining it as low as possible, baths need external insulation. In addition to solving this problem, external insulation also protects the building from direct contact with cold air and precipitation, which prolongs the life of the building.

The choice of type of insulation depends on the material from which the bath is built.

The order and sequence of work on external insulation depends on the type of material used for the construction. For baths made of logs - rounded or simply sanded - this is usually a thorough sealing of all cracks and cracks: wood of sufficient thickness holds heat well on its own. Sometimes they insulate the steam room and the washing room from the inside.

If timber is used during construction, it is most likely necessary to insulate, but how it depends on its thickness and region (you need to know how severe the winters are). It is imperative to insulate baths built of bricks and building blocks - they have high thermal conductivity and to ensure the required temperature regime, the wall thickness must be at least 80 cm, which is very unprofitable from an economic point of view. Therefore, such baths are always insulated.

• 1 How to insulate a bath from a log outside
• 2 Insulation of a bath from a bar outside
• 3 Insulation of a brick bath from the outside
• 4 Finishing the outside of the block bath
• 5 Conclusions

How to insulate a bath from a log from the outside

Almost all the insulation of a log bath comes down to careful sealing of cracks. Even during construction, a special jute insulation was laid between the crowns, but the wood dries out over time, cracks, and new cracks form, which need to be regularly caulked.

Warming of a bath from a log

After the erection of a log house and caulking of cracks, the building must stand under the roof for at least six months. All this time it is advisable not to use the bath. The log house will shrink, the wood will dry out, new cracks and gaps will appear. That's what they need to caulk. To do this, use a special insulation based on jute and flax. Jute itself does not conduct heat well and does not burn, but its disadvantage is low elasticity (it breaks easily). To solve this problem, flax fibers are added to the log house insulation. Thin strips of material are hammered into the slots with a hammer and a special metal spatula-caulker. This must be done carefully to prevent distortion of the structure.

There is also a special sealant for sealing cracks in wooden buildings. It is easier to work with it: all available voids are filled from a special syringe.

Warming a bath from a log with a sealant

Log cabin shrinks for two years. At this time, it is not recommended to sheathe it with finishing materials. So you will have access to newly appearing cracks that need to be periodically sealed from the inside and outside. To protect the insulation from the effects of precipitation, the building can be tightened from the outside with a film, fixing it with planks.

Two years after the construction, you can start finishing. For many, this will sound ridiculous, but log structures can be sheathed with a block house, clapboard, imitation timber, and dies. To begin with, a crate is mounted on the wall (if it is made of wood, it must be treated with antibacterial impregnations and increase resistance to fire), which is checked for verticality and horizontality using a building level.

Crate for insulation and finishing

A finishing material is attached to the crate, which is then varnished or other protective compounds. If metal guides are chosen, they are mounted on special suspensions.

Insulation on the outside of a log bath is almost never used, and inside it is additionally insulated only sometimes a steam room and a washing room. If you decide to play it safe and insulate the building, if the insulation is afraid of moisture, a vapor or hydro barrier is laid on top of it. It is fixed with the help of planks, on which the finish is subsequently attached.

Insulation of a bath from a bar outside

Warming a bath from a bar from the outside is absolutely no different from warming a bath from a log. The building must also settle down, cracks also appear in it, which are sealed in the same way.

Warming of a bath from a bar

The need for insulation from the outside depends on the thickness of the timber. If for your climate zone its thickness is insufficient, insulation is to be done according to the following scheme:

• a crate made of timber or metal guides (be sure to set them both in a horizontal and vertical plane);
• heat insulator (thickness depends on the climatic zone, wall thickness, and type of thermal insulation);
• moisture and wind protection;
• counter crate (not necessary, but there should be a gap between the protective film and finishing materials);
• Decoration Materials.

Insulate baths outside

They usually sheathe a bath from a bar outside: clapboard of any type, edged board, siding, metal profile, block house, etc. After completion of the work, the wooden finishes are coated with varnishes for outdoor use, sometimes they are pre-treated with coloring pigments, but many modern compositions also have a tinting effect, which, of course, is convenient.

If siding is used as a finish, then the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finish is mandatory. In this case, it is advisable to use special guides as a crate, which can be bought at the same place as siding. Guides kyu5pyatsya on special suspensions.

Metal guides for siding are mounted on special suspensions

Insulation of a brick bath from the outside

It is imperative to insulate a brick bath from the outside - this material has a high thermal conductivity, so it will be extremely difficult to warm up the room to the required conditions without external insulation. The sequence of insulation is the same: frame, insulation, moisture and wind insulation, ventilation gap, sheathing.

Scheme of insulation of a brick bath

For external insulation, it is usually advised to use mineral wool. According to recent studies, they are not suitable for internal insulation of a bath - they emit formaldehyde, and for external insulation - one of the best options. You can also insulate a brick bath from the outside with polystyrene foam plates, polystyrene foam (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foamed glass (its disadvantage is high price). For high-quality performance of work, it is advised to put two layers side by side (with an offset of half the length) to reduce heat loss due to overlapping seams. But this method takes more time, and materials for insulation take twice as much. Therefore, most often the insulation is done in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are glued with reinforced tape.

Fabric-reinforced PVC tape (Forsace)

For sheathing a brick bath outside, you can use wooden finishing materials or siding. There is another option for exterior decoration: you can finish the bath outside with plaster. This is possible if polystyrene plates, foam glass or foam plastic were used as a heater. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of this material, a primer is applied, and then the walls are plastered.

Scheme of insulation of a brick bath and finishing with plaster

You can insulate a brick bath according to the type of ventilated facade. In this case, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall (the installation step is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation), between which mats or insulation boards are tightly installed.

The scheme of insulation of a brick bath according to the principle of a ventilated facade

For reliability, they can be strengthened with special dowels, but this is not necessary - the material itself must hold firmly enough (therefore, the mounting step of the guides is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation - it is held due to the force of elasticity). The joints of the plates are glued with reinforced tape, or treated with special glue, laid on top waterproofing film, fix it with slats. Now guides are installed on the brackets, which support the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for mounting the exterior finish. According to this scheme, it is also possible to insulate baths from foam blocks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete.

Finishing the outside of the block bath

To baths from blocks, you can apply any of the insulation schemes described above. In addition, there is another option: to overlay such a bath with decorative bricks, but such an option for finishing and warming is possible if a positive temperature is maintained in the bath all the time.

External decoration of the bath with decorative bricks

If you decide to overlay a bath of blocks with bricks, you can lay out the second wall not close, but stepping back 5-10 centimeters. In this case thermal insulation characteristics buildings will improve a lot. The gap can be left empty, or it can be filled with heat-insulating material: expanded clay, sawdust that has undergone special processing, etc.

Aerated concrete bath insulation scheme

In order to prevent moisture from accumulating in the inter-wall space, small ventilation gaps are left in the outer wall, and for reliable fixation of the finishing wall, small pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the carrier.

Recently, such a finishing material as a block house, which emits log wall. Block house to be made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood. A block bath sheathed with a block house looks like it was made of wood.

Block bath lined with a block house

conclusions

A log bath built in Russian traditions, as a rule, does not need additional insulation walls, neither inside nor outside.

When choosing an external insulation for a brick or block bath, the choice is very wide. Without prejudice to health, you can use mineral wool made using phenol-formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for warming the bath inside. Styrofoam and polystyrene foam are also suitable.

If you have financial opportunities, the bath can be sheathed with a metal block house, which will last for many years.

A rare owner refuses to have a bathhouse in a suburban area. Modern technologies make it possible to build such a traditional structure from a very variety of materials. It can be not only a log and timber, but also blocks and bricks. Whatever the bath was built from, sooner or later the question of the outer and interior decoration. With a proper systematic approach, finishing a bath with your own hands can be quite a feasible task.

The appearance of the bath is important on the site

The appearance of the bath is dictated by the style of the surrounding space and the main house. The choice of finish depends only on the aesthetic preferences and financial capabilities of the owner.

Before analyzing in detail the options for wall cladding, let us dwell separately on the fact that the decoration of windows, doors, gables, gutters and plinths also have great importance for the appearance of the building. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance the combinations of all the details according to their aesthetic and practical characteristics.

Traditionally, the bath is built or, as they say, rolled, from logs. log cabin is the most environmentally friendly material. The space between the logs, even at the construction stage, is covered with moss, tow or other insulation. Wooden structures are allowed to stand before proceeding with decorative finishing. Usually, it takes a year and a half.

Log bath

After shrinkage of the log house, gaps between the logs may appear, especially in the case of using materials such as tow or moss: it was blown out by the wind, the birds pulled it away, etc. The use of jute minimizes this problem. But, if, nevertheless, cracks have formed, they are carefully sealed and sealed. To give a neater look, the logs are polished. This is a very painstaking and time-consuming process that requires considerable patience and skill.

Sanding requires skill

After grinding wooden wall treated with various compounds against decay, fungi and insects. If desired, the tree can be given a certain shade by covering it with stain or varnish for a couple of layers after applying the primer.

varnish finish

As for the outer skin, in the case of a log sauna, it is worth weighing the pros and cons very well. On the one hand, wood also ages over time, cracks and loses its aesthetic properties. The outer skin will protect it from the effects of external precipitation and hide natural wear from the eyes. On the other hand, this is the most environmentally friendly and breathable material, which means that it is necessary to carefully consider the ventilation between the skin and wooden wall to prevent condensation from settling and wood decay. In any case, having decided on the outer cladding of a wooden bath, you should choose the most environmentally friendly materials, such as a block house, log imitation, wooden lining.

Imitation of a bar. Exterior decoration of the bath

Imitation of a bar is called various finishing materials. You can find this definition in relation to wood or plastic siding that repeats the pattern. natural log, block house, lining or an independent term. Any of the listed materials is subject to one common goal: to create the appearance that the structure is made of logs. There are still differences.

timber imitation

These are panels made from trees of various species. The material does not undergo deformation, does not fade in the sun, is treated with antiseptics at the factory and is not afraid of moisture. The moisture content of the material is 12%. This is achieved through a special chamber drying in production.

timber imitation

Panels made from coniferous and hardwood trees differ in color, smell and other parameters in the same way as solid logs. For example, imitation of a bar made of spruce, larch or pine of a darker shade. Larch panels are heavier and stronger than the rest. From cedar, have antibacterial properties. From pine, contain a large number of resins darken over time.

Finish may darken over time

Hardwood panels are commonly used for interior decoration due to their cost.

The imitation timber panels are fastened starting from the bottom, on self-tapping screws to the crate. A vapor barrier membrane and insulation are laid between the wall and the finish. Outside, imitation of timber can be treated with varnish or stain.

Imitation of timber is less expensive

This finish option is ideal for a frame structure. Its not the best high price in combination with high-quality finishes, they will give an effect that is in no way inferior to a bathhouse made of solid logs, but significantly lower in price.

Bath siding outside

Siding is suitable for any style on the site

This type of sheathing is one of the most popular today. This is due to the relatively low cost of the material and ease of installation. Siding is made from wood, metal and plastic. Production technologies allow you to simulate various materials of natural origin and produce panels of various colors. Thanks to this, you can choose a finish for almost any stylistic orientation of the main environment, house, site.

According to the manufacturers, the materials used in production do not emit toxic substances, are not subject to rotting and mold, and are resistant to sudden changes in temperature and ultraviolet radiation. Note that all of the above qualities can only be related to certified panels from bona fide manufacturers. Certificates of conformity can always be obtained from sellers.

When choosing siding, you should pay attention to the thickness of the panel. It must be the same for all elements. Most often it is 3mm. Try to buy panels from the same batch so that no color differences are found during the installation process. If it is not possible to buy the required quantity from one batch, calculate the material so that panels from different batches are located on different facades.

In siding trim there is important feature. The surface of the facade must be perfectly flat.

The surface must be perfectly flat

Fasten the siding to the crate with stainless steel screws. The head of the fastener must be at least 8mm. Installation starts with installation starting bar and profile. Next move on to the corners. Mount the crate of vertically fixed bars or metal slats.

siding strengthening process

The pitch of the crate is maintained within 30-40 cm. Installation of the panels themselves is not difficult. They are stacked one on top of the other, up to the cheek, attaching to the crate with self-tapping screws. At the end, the finishing bar is installed. In the process of work, the slats are checked for level every 4-6 rows.

Finishing with facade tiles

Facade tiles

Facade tiles most often imitate a natural stone. There may be two types. The first is metal typesetting elements with special fasteners. It is mounted in almost the same way as siding. The crate is installed first. The first tile is attached with 4 self-tapping screws. The subsequent ones are only 2 on one side, and with an arc they snap into a special locking groove to the previous one.

The rules for organizing heat and vapor barrier are similar to siding. Installation starts from bottom corner and regularly check the vertical and horizontal plumb and level. It is customary to use facade tiles for finishing the basement, but if desired, you can lay out the entire facade. It belongs to non-combustible materials, withstands precipitation and frost, is resistant to temperature extremes and does not lose its aesthetic parameters under the influence of sunlight.

Bath decoration outside

Second type facade tiles attached to cement-sand mortar. Such tiles are cast from special mixtures. Laying such tiles requires a certain level of skill.

Interior decoration of the bath

The interior space of the bath is divided into two temperature zones. This largely determines the choice of finishing materials. The article describes in detail the process of finishing the steam room with all the features, so let's pay attention to other rooms.

In addition to the steam room in the bath, a dressing room is equipped, often combined with a rest room, a washing department, and a pool can be arranged. The choice of finishing materials for the interior of the bath is determined not only by the imagination of the owners. Here the functional purpose of the room plays an important role.

Interior decoration should be environmentally friendly and hygienic, not emit any toxic substances. Especially when exposed to heat and moisture. In wet rooms, especially on the floor, it is worth considering how slippery the material is when wet. And for finishing the rest room, only aesthetic indicators come to the fore.

Finishing the bath clapboard

Very often finishing inner space baths perform wooden clapboard. First, the material is allowed to adapt to the microclimate for 1-2 days. Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to level the walls, otherwise the material will go in waves. Align the walls due to the crate in increments of 70 cm.

Clapboard finish

When choosing a forcing, it is important to consider the type of wood from which it is made. For all rooms, except for the steam room, pine is perfect. It has a nice color and warm air indoors will provoke the release of pleasant coniferous odors, which also have medicinal properties. Resin discharge is not to be feared. With proper thermal insulation of the steam room, the temperature in other rooms will not rise so much that the tree “let a tear”. For the washing department, you can use a lining made of spruce. It is resistant to moisture and beautiful in color.

The lining differs not only in the type of wood, but also in the profile.

Types of lining

The softline is wider than the others and has a narrower ridge than the others. Finishing such a clapboard will look more stylish. Eurolining is considered the most an expensive option but also the most reliable. It does not change its width when it dries out. Humidity quality distillation should be 12%. This should be remembered when buying.

Bath tiling

Finishing the bath with tiles - very stylish

except wooden materials in the decoration you can use tiles. It is ideal for the washing department and the pool, if any. Modern manufacturers offer a huge selection of bath tiles, but two varieties can be conditionally distinguished: glazed and unglazed. To finish the bath, it is better to choose glazed tiles with a rough surface. Firstly, glazed tiles are better able to withstand changes in temperature and humidity. Secondly, the glazed surface protects the tile from the penetration of bacteria into the porous layers of the material.

The rough surface will prevent slipping. IN washing department You can also use it for wall cladding.

The shape and size of the tiles are selected to the taste of the owner. The mosaic looks great.

Calculating the required number of tiles, add 5-10%. Fix the tiles on a special glue.

The process of laying tiles is best left to professionals.

Glazed tiles cannot be used as a screen over the stove and heater. Enamel will not withstand temperatures over time and will crack.

Photo of finishing the bath

Bath finishing options Wood - eco-friendly material for bathroom decoration
Use your imagination!