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Waterproofing a bathroom in a wooden house. Materials for waterproofing a wooden floor in a bathroom Coating waterproofing for a bathroom in a wooden house

For waterproofing a bathroom in a wooden house, coating materials (mastics and impregnations) are used. Given that the work is carried out from the inside, you need to buy latex mastics, they do not contain solvents, respectively, there is no smell when applied. The waterproofing of the bath is carried out with roll materials (reflective insulation and diffusion membrane), which are more needed to protect the insulation.

Waterproofing a bathroom in a wooden house

Very pretty, but extremely impractical.

Waterproofing a bathroom in a wooden house, unlike an apartment, is applied to all internal surfaces. The protective layer must be seamless to completely exclude the penetration of moisture. Recall that in a bathroom with concrete walls and floors, only wet areas can be treated. The tree is prone to soaking moisture, from which, over time, mold appears in the material, it begins to crumble. Although there are some breeds that do not rot. For example, teak, which is used to build ships.

Of course, no one builds teak houses, conifers are usually used, since they are cheaper. There are various impregnations that reduce the degree of moisture absorption of wood, but still such treatment will not be enough for a bathroom. Here you need a major waterproofing of the bathroom in a wooden house. You can’t do without a screed on the floor and wall cladding with a plasterboard ceiling.

Wooden floor waterproofing

Waterproofing under the screed is laid with an overlap on the walls.

The first step is waterproofing the floor in a wooden house. Before pouring the screed in the bathroom, you need to spread a protective film on the subfloor. To do this, you can use ordinary polyethylene or PVC membrane. The use of bitumen rolls is allowed, but indoors, installation turns into torture. The adhesive surface of the rolls must be heated with an open flame, while poisonous smoke is released, an ordinary respirator does not save.

Tapes (any of the above) are laid with an overlap on the walls in such a way that the wood does not come into contact with the mortar. A damper tape is preliminarily glued along the perimeter of the bathroom, which will compensate for the expansion of the concrete screed during operation. If floor heating is planned, then it is necessary to lay thermal insulation (polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam). You can then mount for the underfloor heating system. Why metal-plastic, and not or PPN:

aluminum reinforcement reduces thermal expansion;
the ability to bend the contour at the desired angle, respectively, the absence of joints;
shape retention after bending - PEX pipes do not hold their shape and return to their original position (100% shape memory).

There is a special waterproofing of the wooden floor in the bathroom with mounts for the contour - this is a foam covered with a polymer, which is available in mats. A screed is poured over the metal-plastic pipes, if a floor heating system is not provided, then concrete can be poured directly onto the waterproofing even without . The wooden floor is already protected from moisture, but concrete also absorbs moisture, so it must also be covered with waterproofing before laying the tiles.

You can use two types of waterproofing for a wooden floor under a tile - these are latex mastic and penetrating compounds.

Latex mastic does not contain solvents, so there is no pungent odor. Apply by brush or roller. It is allowed to perform installation by the bulk method - this is when the mastic is poured directly onto the floor and distributed with a wide spatula (similar to a leveling screed). After polymerization forms a protective film on a surface. Inexpensive and high-quality mastic is produced by the Knauf company, the name Flehendicht.

Impregnations are cement-like powders that are diluted in water and applied to concrete with a brush. Penetrate into his pores and clog them with crystals. As a result, the screed becomes waterproof. The composition is caustic, do not allow contact with the skin to avoid chemical burns. A proven penetrating composition of domestic production is Penetron (the price is low, and the quality is high, if properly bred).

Waterproofing wooden walls and ceilings

The walls sewn up with drywall are covered with latex mastic.

Wooden walls and ceilings definitely need to be sewn up with drywall. There is a special drywall for wet areas, but it is still subject to the destructive effects of water, although to a lesser extent. In any case, you need to do the waterproofing of the bathroom in a wooden house with your own hands, especially since there are no difficulties in this.

As a protective material, only latex mastics should be used, already familiar to us by Knauf Flehendicht. Mastic is applied in two layers:

the first - vertical movements;
the second - horizontal movements or vice versa.

Recall that waterproofing is applied in a continuous layer. The hardened mastic will also protect the structural elements made of wood from steam, which is very abundant in the bathroom. Pay attention to wall-to-ceiling and wall-to-floor joints. They must be treated with special care or stick a self-adhesive waterproofing tape. On the hardened latex mastic, you can lay tiles or paint it. Do not forget about the hood. A good ventilation system is a must. It is also necessary to install a water or . This is primarily a heating device, and only then a means for drying clothes and towels. Without a heat exchanger, the bathroom will be damp.

Waterproofing in a wooden bath

Waterproofing in the bath protects the insulation from moisture.

Waterproofing the floor in the bath according to technology is no different from laying protective compounds on the ceiling and walls. Everything is done according to the following algorithm (layers from the inside):

wood finish;
air buffer zone;
vapor barrier;
mineral wool;
membrane (walls are an exception - a membrane is not needed).

To clarify, let's deal with the terms waterproofing and vapor barrier, because these are not the names of materials, but the definition of the function of the layer. Let's look at an example. As a vapor barrier in the steam room, Penofol is used - foil glued to a foam polyethylene pillow. Penofol does not let steam through, but at the same time it retains water, it turns out that the layer performs two functions at once.

To the waterproofing of the wooden floor in the bath include:

Penofol, which is laid on top of the insulation and does not let water or steam through;
a diffusion membrane, which is laid below the insulation and does not allow moisture to pass from the ground, while releasing steam and a heat-insulating cake.

The same applies to waterproofing the ceiling of the bath. The only difference is which side to put the diffusion membrane. Two types of membranes can be used: single-layer PVC and three-layer polypropylene. Separately, we note the importance of the air buffer zone between the finish and . Penofol is laid with foil to the heat source, that is, inside. The glossy surface reflects IR rays back into the steam room. IR rays are transmitted only through the air, if the foil touches the finish, then the method of heat transfer will be completely different. Therefore, in order for Penofol to work as a reflective insulation, a gap of at least 15 mm is required.

Results

The walls, floor and ceiling of the bathroom in a wooden house need to be protected from moisture. To do this, a polyethylene or PVC membrane is laid on the floor and a screed is poured. Before laying the tiles, the screed is treated with penetrating waterproofing or coated with mastic. The walls and ceiling are sewn up with gypsum, on which latex mastic is also applied (preferably Knauf Flehendicht). Wall-floor and wall-ceiling joints are glued with self-adhesive waterproofing tape.

Laying the waterproofing of a bath with your own hands is needed to protect the structural wooden elements and mineral wool (you can’t do without insulation in a steam room). Two types of waterproofing are used: penofol and diffusion membrane. The membrane is placed only on the floor (under insulation) and the ceiling (on insulation), it is not needed for walls. Penofol is always placed from the side with a pair of foil inside. A gap of 15 mm is required between the reflective surface and the finish.

It is difficult to properly organize moisture cutoff in a shower or sauna room even in stone buildings, where there are no moisture-sensitive building materials such as logs, timber and sealing packing. But the equipment and finishes for bathrooms are the same for both brick and wooden buildings, so the waterproofing of a bathroom in a wooden house is carried out according to a special technique that takes into account the characteristics of building materials and the thermal conductivity of the walls.

It is noteworthy that the most difficult question in this case is not how to do it, but which waterproofing scheme to choose, since there are several options for solving this problem, and quite often these solutions are not interchangeable.

This review contains information about what should first be considered when drawing up a work plan for waterproofing bathrooms with your own hands.

The choice of waterproofing design

Despite all the specificity of the interior in wooden houses, the arrangement of bathrooms and bathrooms in them is preferred to be done in the same way as in stone ones. That is, tiles, ceramics, glass, stainless steel and a minimum of materials prone to destruction at high humidity.

At the same time, protection against moisture should be such that not only direct contact with water on the wooden elements of the log house is excluded, but also the likelihood of condensation on the inside of the walls.

For wooden houses, this is especially true, since bathrooms are usually placed in corner rooms, where colder walls, when in contact with a warm and humid atmosphere, will be guaranteed to be saturated with moisture.

I must say that there are no universal solutions for finishing bathrooms in log or timber houses. Depending on the condition of the soil, the design of the basement and the method of exterior wall decoration, an individual waterproofing scheme is developed.

In addition, when designing "wet" rooms, exhaust ventilation ducts with higher performance should be provided. But in practice, far from all developers go to such a complication, so the entire burden of protecting the wooden elements of the log house from excess moisture falls on waterproofing.

In general, it should be assumed that the bathroom in a wooden house must have complete moisture insulation in all directions: floor, walls, ceiling, ventilation.

At the same time, it must be borne in mind that different methods of waterproofing are used for floors and walls.

Floor

Waterproofing a bathroom in a wooden structure

From the whole variety of possible floor designs for the bathroom, the basic option should be distinguished, consisting of the following elements:

primary waterproofing;
concrete screed as a leveler;
final waterproofing;
base for tiles;
tile laid on elastic glue;
epoxy grout.

It is possible to modify this design into subspecies: “heavy” and “light”.

The first option - with filling the space between the lags with a concrete mixture - is used for bathrooms on the first floors and in cases where the installation of underfloor heating contours is expected.

The second method involves leveling under the tile without a concrete screed and is used when it is necessary to minimize the load on the floor. This option is in demand, as a rule, for arranging bathrooms on the second floors.

It is important to consider that double waterproofing of the floor is always used in wooden houses!

Walls

Waterproofing of walls and ceilings in wet rooms of wooden houses is most often performed according to the scheme of ventilated cladding.

The walls of the log house are covered with an insulating film, on top of which the frame and trim elements are mounted. The film must be such that a vapor barrier effect is created.

More details on how to create the moisture protection of the walls yourself will be described in the following sections. Here we note that the main emphasis in this case is not on blocking the paths of drip moisture, but on creating conditions for normalizing the moisture content of logs in a natural way.

Initial stage: primary waterproofing

As mentioned above, in wooden buildings it is strongly recommended to make two levels of waterproofing:

in the transition zone from the ground (floor) to the floor;
and as a base for laying the finishing coating.

Since the logs of the subfloor in wooden houses are usually not removed, the primary waterproofing in this case is best done using a reinforced polyethylene film.

The film is laid with overlapping and with further sealing of the joints with special adhesive tape.

Primary waterproofing

The finished base should look something like the picture on the left.

In cases where the logs are installed on subfloor boards, you can use a coating version of waterproofing based on bituminous mastics.

Some special tools are not needed to complete this stage: cutting the film can be done with an ordinary construction knife or scissors, and a wide brush is enough to apply bituminous mastic.

Please note that the edges of the insulating sheet must extend onto the wall, forming a protective tray.

alignment

Pie hydro-thermal insulation

The next step is to create a solid and even base for finishing. Since in most cases ceramic tiles are used as flooring in showers, such a base must be as durable as possible.

Separately, we note that the difference between the "heavy" and "light" floor options lies in the way this stage is implemented.

The light version involves filling the cavities between the lags with mineral wool insulation, followed by covering the insulation with a film for vapor barrier.

An important point: there must be a ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the next floor level (at least 30 mm).

The leveling of the base in this case is carried out by laying OSB-boards or moisture-resistant plywood on the logs.

In some cases, to give the floor special rigidity, OSB-boards or plywood are laid in two layers, with overlapping joints.

A simpler, and also more commonly used, is a “heavy” floor, in which a concrete screed acts as a leveler.

Several factors speak in its favor:

lower price;
solidity, completely eliminating deflections and shrinkage under the tile;
the possibility of using coating or liquid waterproofing for showers without a pallet;
lower height.

Film - mesh - screed

Please note that even if there is a lag, the screed is still carried out with reinforcement with a metal mesh. Therefore, the leveling process using a concrete screed is carried out in several stages:

installation of communications;
installation of reinforcing mesh;
pouring concrete mix.

In order for the coating to turn out even and without cracks, we recommend using ready-made mixtures with plasticizers for pouring.

When leveling the floor for showers, remember that its height must be at least 20 mm lower than the level of other floors. This is necessary to minimize the risk of water spilling from the shower room into other rooms.

Basic waterproofing

Given that today's bathrooms are often viewed as 100% damp and with the potential for a film of water to form on the floor, the second sealing layer must be especially secure.

In this case, the following technologies are used to create it:

laying of rolled insulators;
multi-layer application of sealing mastics with a brush;
pouring polymer compositions under self-leveling floors;
polyurea coating.

Zones for isolation

It is most convenient to seal a concrete screed with mastics. Application methods may be different, but in all cases it must be taken into account that a sealed pallet must be created in the lower part of the room, and additional insulation of “wet” zones should be made on the walls.

If a shower cabin is used instead of a bath, the entire wall area at a distance of 50 cm from its contours is considered a wet zone.

Please note that all corner joints must be glued with a special tape, on top of which a second layer of mastic is applied.

Zoning for a shower

All technological features of this stage, as a rule, are specified in the instructions for the corresponding mastic. But it should be emphasized that repeated layers in multi-layer coatings are applied perpendicular to the direction of the coating of the previous layer.

How to properly insulate corners

Finishing coating waterproofing

Considering the waterproofing of floors in bathrooms, it is impossible not to mention the rapidly gaining popularity of self-leveling floors.

Self-leveling floor over concrete screed

The term “self-leveling floor” refers to the following set of components:

bulk equalizer (simultaneously acting as a waterproofing);
decorative film with a pattern;
acrylic varnish applied over the pattern (also in bulk).

If such a floor is used as a finish, then the second layer of waterproofing, which was discussed above, does not need to be applied.

Wall and ceiling protection

Wall waterproofing in shower rooms is done in several ways. And quite often without tiles, with the use of wood trim elements.

The simplest, but at the same time the least preferred method of moisture insulation in houses made of timber or logs is the impregnation of the log house elements with specially water-repellent compositions without additional finishing.

This approach is acceptable only when the bathroom is located in the interior of the house. But even in this case, after two or three years, serious problems with interventional seals may arise.

Vapor barrier under the frame

The standard solution is to install a frame on which either drywall is attached (under the tile), or lining made of resistant wood is mounted.

Direct waterproofing - with the application of insulating mastics to the walls - is carried out only in "wet" areas. For the rest of the area, the walls are sheathed with a vapor barrier film, moreover, in such a way that there is a ventilation gap between the film and the next level of finish.

When performing vapor barrier work yourself, you should always control the direction of the membrane. The smooth side of the film should be directed towards the insulation (or towards the wall, if internal walls are sheathed), the fleecy side - towards the room.

Vapor barrier laying rule

Ceiling protection is carried out according to the same technology as for walls, only instead of a frame for plasterboard or lining, a suspended ceiling structure is installed.

Waterproofing of finishing elements

If wooden elements are used to finish walls and ceilings, then special treatment should be taken care of separately, since under conditions of sudden changes in humidity and direct contact with dripping moisture, an unprotected tree will lose its original appearance in six months.

The best, but at the same time the most expensive way to avoid the harmful effects of moisture on the finish is the use of special types of wood (larch, teak, heat-treated pine).

When using a cheaper lining, it should be treated with antiseptic compounds and oil impregnations.

We emphasize once again that it is not the front, but the back side of the finish that is most at risk, so the supporting structure for its installation must necessarily have a ventilation gap.

The second important factor that directly affects the moisture resistance of wooden finishing elements is proper ventilation of the room. If it is not possible to provide the required level of air exchange, then when finishing the walls it is better to give preference to ceramic tiles.

The Master Srubov company accepts orders for the manufacture, repair and modernization of any units included in the design of a log or timber house, including waterproofing floors in baths and bathrooms. You can clarify the details of cooperation and call a specialist to develop a detailed work plan by phone or other means of communication published in the "Contacts" section.

Wooden houses are no longer a rarity in suburban construction. Due to the unique structure and environmental safety of natural wood, they have many more advantages than their counterparts made of brick or concrete. It is easy to breathe in such houses, they are warm and cozy even in the most severe frosts.

Despite the positive qualities, some are wary of wooden buildings. The main fears are the bathroom in a wooden house and the process of its arrangement. The excitement is quite justified, because the organic building material intensively absorbs moisture, and this is fraught with decay. The right approach to planning and finishing the bathroom will help to avoid these problems.

Where and how best to place the bathroom

First of all, at the design stage, you need to choose the best place for arranging the bathroom. It is advisable to place it on the first floor next to the bedroom, dressing room or between two rooms.

If the living space is large, then for convenience the house may have several bathrooms on different floors. In this case, the premises are equipped one above the other. At the same time, great importance is given to preliminary calculations of the load on floors in wooden houses.

Given that the average weight of a standard bath is about 100 kg. Filled with water, it weighs twice as much. Plus the body weight of the person taking the bath. Because of this, the design load is increased to at least 460 kg / m2.

An increased load will be placed on the floor coverings in the bathroom. They should be much thicker and stronger than standard designs.

To obtain the desired design load parameters, the following measures are taken:

reduction of the step of laying beams;
the use of floors with a large cross section;
increase in the thickness of the beams by 25 percent.

It is more expedient to make the floor in the bathroom somewhat lower than in other rooms. The margin in height will protect the house from flooding in case of unforeseen circumstances occurring due to pipe breaks or equipment breakdowns.

During planning, you need to draw a diagram of the placement of plumbing equipment, risers, fixtures, valves.

Features of the arrangement of the communication system

When a suitable place is chosen, it's time to think through all the nuances that accompany the supply of communications to the room. It is advisable to draw up a detailed plan, where to indicate the placement of each individual element.

The subtleties of the organization of the water supply

Condensation is an inveterate enemy of all wooden structures, often formed in large quantities on pipes with cold water. You can protect wood from it in the bathroom by choosing plastic pipes instead of metal products.

Plastic is characterized by lower thermal conductivity, which means that the amount of condensate on it will decrease and will tend to a minimum.

Useful recommendations for installation will help to nullify the risk of decay of wooden structures, namely:

exclusion of contact of pipes with walls;
thermal insulation of structures with the help of special tubes made of foamed polyurethane;
fixing the pipeline with clamps equipped with rubber gaskets;
arrangement of a drain valve that will remove water accumulating on the floor.

Compliance with these simple rules when installing plumbing in the bathroom will prevent early destruction of the supporting structures of a wooden house.

To equip the bathroom plumbing in a wooden house, it is advisable to buy plastic pipes. They are resistant to deformation, and this is important, because a house made of timber or logs gives a noticeable shrinkage over time.

Basic requirements for sewerage

Special requirements are put forward for sewerage systems in wooden houses. Any leaks are dangerous for wood, so it is imperative to carefully check the tightness of all connections.

Also, pipes should not be allowed to freeze. Due to natural ventilation in winter, its risk is quite high. An effective option to prevent this phenomenon is to bury sewer pipes in the ground.

Features of the arrangement of the electrical network in the bathroom

In order to properly conduct the wiring in the bathroom, you need to remember that high humidity does not affect the wiring in the best way. Under adverse conditions, open contacts quickly oxidize, and in the area of \u200b\u200bthe connections, the resistance and degree of heating increase.

You should not joke with this, the critical temperature often causes fires. It is important to lay the wiring in compliance with all regulatory requirements, connecting the cables as reliably as possible. It is desirable to cover the ends of the cores in the joints with a layer of tin.

Often fires in wooden houses occur due to errors in the installation of electrical wires. Can't save on this

Also, when drawing up a wiring diagram, do not forget that the house is wooden. And here you will need increased attention and additional protection of conductors.

The best option would be to use metal pipes in which the wiring will be laid. The use of copper or steel pipes will allow you to safely make hidden installation in the bathroom.

Still, do not forget that electrical outlets should be removed from taps and shower heads. And the sockets must be chosen with a special protective cover - moisture resistant with IP44.

How to properly arrange ventilation

For any bathroom, air exchange is important, and in a wooden house, a complete ventilation system should be especially competently organized.

It is important to ensure a full flow of air into the room, leaving a gap under the door. You can also put special grilles at the bottom of the door - they look beautiful and perform their main function of air supply.

For the bathroom of a wooden house, it is important to ensure the timely supply and removal of air. This will extend the life of the main structures

To remove the exhaust air, a ventilation duct is constructed. It can be displayed in the attic of the house or laid under a false ceiling, if one is installed in the bathroom.

For safety reasons, ventilation ducts are equipped with fire dampers, elastic non-combustible materials, and a fan protected from fire. The power of the exhaust fan is selected based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

A reliable ventilation system in the bathroom will instantly remove moist air from the room

How to properly waterproof

Before you start finishing, you need to make waterproofing - an effective waterproof barrier for all parts of the room.

The main types of waterproofing materials

When choosing a material for waterproofing, you should focus on the type of finish that will be used in the bathroom.

To protect the wall structure from the harmful effects of moisture, use the following materials:

Coating. They are able to create a durable waterproof coating. These are mastics and emulsions that are applied to the surface with a roller or brush in three layers with an interval of several days;
Pasted, sold in rolls or sheets that are glued with an overlap. Seams are also treated with sealant or waterproof putty;
Impregnation. They are used for the treatment of non-residential rooms due to the presence of various chemical additives in the composition.

Water-repellent properties are ensured by the presence in the materials of special additives that are safe for humans. So, for gluing sheet bituminous or polymeric materials, a special adhesive composition is taken from hot or cold mastic

Treatment with materials with water-repellent properties will protect the tree from swelling and decay due to moisture

The procedure for waterproofing in the bathroom

The waterproofing material is applied only to the cleaned surface treated with deep penetrating primers. In most cases, the floor is insulated with bituminous mastics, then pasted over with a waterproofing film, and a cement-sand screed is made on top, reinforced with a reinforcing mesh and a plasticizer. This technology is reliable and relatively inexpensive.

Cement screed smoothes and levels the surface of the floor, preparing it for finishing

For waterproofing walls, you can use one of the options:

Treat the surface with a layer of latex or acrylic waterproofing under drywall;
Coat the walls with mastic before laying the tiles;
Leave the wooden surface as a finish, impregnating it with compositions with oil and varnish bases.

The surface of the ceiling must also be well smeared with bituminous mastic in 2-3 layers, and then treated with an antiseptic protective mixture.

When waterproofing coatings, special attention should be paid to the so-called "wet" areas near the sinks and the bath itself.

Wall, floor and ceiling decoration

After the reliable waterproofing is ready and completely dry, the turn of finishing works comes. When choosing materials, you should take into account the features of the room, which is located in a wooden house.

What floor to make in the bathroom?

The basis for finishing the floor will be a concrete screed, poured over the waterproofing layer. It should have a slight slope, thanks to which an emergency drain is equipped in the floor.

All materials purchased for finishing the bathroom must meet the main requirement for any finishing material for a wooden house - moisture resistance. This is the first thing you need to pay attention to when buying

For finishing the floor most often used:

laminate;
porcelain stoneware/ceramic tiles;
linoleum;
moisture resistant wood.

An elementary and far from the worst cladding option is ceramic tile. The wooden floor looks beautiful and organic in the bathroom. If you want to save money, you can get by with linoleum.

The laying of hard types of coatings on the floor in wooden houses is carried out according to a floating pattern. That is, they do not fix it rigidly to the base and between the walls of the building and the screed, together with the tiles laid on it, for example, leave a gap of 1.5 - 2 cm. It is necessary to compensate for the linear movements of wooden structures. From above, the gap is closed with a plinth, which is fixed exclusively on the wall.

Features of wall decoration

When decorating walls, you need to take into account the characteristic features of natural wood. Under the influence of moisture and temperature fluctuations, it shrinks and cracks.

To avoid deformation, the surfaces are prepared for subsequent finishing by installing a crate and fixing a false wall on top. This design is erected from moisture-resistant drywall or a sliding frame made of a metal profile in compliance with the ventilation gap.

Such preparation will allow you to perform almost any type of finishing. But if it is planned to use wood for cladding, then there is no need to build false structures.

Bathroom tiles can be combined with wood or special paint to create beautiful combinations.

Now the following finishing materials for walls in the bathroom are in demand:

Wooden lining. It is polished and additionally processed with paints and varnishes. It is better that it be made of moisture-resistant teak or larch;
Tile. It is presented in a huge assortment: smooth and embossed, plain, with an ornament, large or mosaic. It is attached with waterproof glue, and the seams are treated with polyurethane elastic sealant;
Wall panels. It can be plastic plates or aquapanels. Under them, a crate for a ventilation gap must be installed.

A variety of materials for finishing allows you to realize any design fantasy. You can combine several types of materials, create color compositions, play with textures.

Tiling is the perfect solution for bathrooms. It is durable, water resistant and easy to care for.

The subtleties of the arrangement of the ceiling

The ceilings of bathrooms located in private wooden houses are usually finished with suspended or tension structures made of glossy PVC panels, moisture-resistant drywall.

Suspended ceilings are valued for numerous benefits. They are a powerful shield against humid air, under them it is easy to disguise elements of the electrical and ventilation systems.

If the choice fell on drywall, then the profile for it should be treated with zinc and coated with additional corrosion protection. In order for the plasterboard ceiling to retain its original attractiveness longer, it is pasted over with glass wallpaper.

Stretch, suspended and rack ceiling structures will allow you to realize any ideas for lighting

Selection and installation of plumbing

When all the most difficult work is behind, there comes the moment of choosing and buying plumbing. In this matter, the size of the room, its location, the number of family members are taken into account.

The style of the room also matters. For each direction - country, art deco, provence or classic - you can choose the right plumbing equipment.

There are different models of bathtubs on the market:

wooden;
cast iron;
steel;
acrylic.

It is better to discard the option of purchasing a cast-iron bath immediately. It is unacceptable for a wooden house because of its impressive mass. More practical steel products that are suitable for small spaces.

For rooms decorated in eco-style, it makes sense to purchase an unusual wooden bath. Acrylic models differ in the greatest variety of configurations. Among them, there will definitely be something that fits perfectly into a certain style of interior.

If the size of the room allows, you can install the bath in the center. For a wooden house, such a layout is very convenient and practical. The walls in this case do not come into contact with water, which significantly extends the life of their finishes.

In combined bathrooms, it is desirable to separate the bath and toilet with partitions made of drywall, wood, colored, frosted or mirror glass. Also in the room there should be conditional areas for swimming, recreation, a sanitary zone.

Plumbing must be installed so that there is free space around it:

bath - 100 cm;
toilet bowl - 60-70 cm;
bedside table with opening doors - 50 cm;
shower cabin - 90 cm;
sink - 70 cm.

The distance between each type of equipment should be at least 20 cm. This will allow you to use each device without problems without clinging sideways to another.

Choosing plumbing for small rooms should be very careful. In order not to narrow the space even more visually, you can not install a toilet, sink and bath in dark colors. A profitable solution would be to introduce pastel shades, transparent shelves, and built-in furniture into the interior.

Useful video on the topic

Video about finishing the bathroom with PVC panels:

How to prepare the floor for finishing: effective waterproofing methods:

Laying tiles in the bathroom - all the nuances in the video:

Arranging a bathroom in a wooden house seems to be a difficult and impossible task only at first glance. In fact, anyone can deal with all the subtleties. The main thing is to take into account the characteristic features of natural wood and select high-quality moisture-resistant materials for decoration.

Hello dear readers. I talked a lot about working with drywall, because I myself use this material. As a result, I received questions about whether a vapor barrier is needed for drywall. I consider it necessary, but it is important to place all the layers correctly: otherwise, after a couple of years, you will remove the fungus from the walls. But with the observance of technology, you will protect the room from moisture and make additional insulation. Let's figure out together how to proceed.

Why do you need a vapor barrier under drywall

Before proceeding with the repair, you need to clearly understand why you need a vapor barrier under drywall. By itself, drywall tends to absorb moisture and release excess into the space of the room. If insulation is installed in the frame under the GKL, then all the moisture penetrates into the insulation sheet.

Over time, the impregnated fibers of the insulation cease to perform their inherent functions. This is due to the fact that excess moisture pushes air out of the fibers. Consequently, the room cannot have the desired temperature due to the defective work of the internal material fixed on the frame for drywall.

From the above, the following conclusions can be drawn:

vapor barrier is necessary to preserve all the useful properties of the insulation layer on the frame;
it contributes to the creation of a comfortable microclimate in the room;
a layer of vapor barrier sheet will help protect the drywall.

When is a drywall vapor barrier needed?

Of course, it is up to the owner of the apartment or a private house to decide whether a vapor barrier is needed for drywall. But there are situations when it is required for a full repair. These are:

Cases where a layer of insulation is placed in the frame structure, which is located in close proximity to the street.
If several layers of insulation are laid under the drywall in the frame. For example, a heat-insulating layer and basalt.
And also a vapor barrier is needed if the room is corner. By installing a vapor barrier film, the room is protected from gusts of wind and cooling of the plasterboard ceiling.

Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that vapor barrier is necessary so that the repair process and its result fully satisfy the wishes and expectations of the owner of the property.

Materials for vapor barrier under drywall

Before heading to the building supply store, you need to study the types and functionality of materials. Today, three types are popular:

The usual vapor barrier film, as well as on sale is with reinforced rates.
Mastic. It is used for waterproofing the bathroom.
membrane film.

Vapor barrier film

Such raw materials are quite popular among people doing repairs. However, you should consider all the pros and cons.

Advantages

Price. The usual polyethylene film is affordable for everyone.
Easy installation.

disadvantages

Since polyethylene does not allow air to pass through, creating a greenhouse effect on the surface, the craftsmen came up with a trick. Some experts recommend walking on the surface of polyethylene with a roller with needles. Thus, according to the repairmen, the surface begins to breathe and provides the desired effect. Other experts say that such an idea is wrong. In any case, the pores created in this way will not perform the required function, passing moisture in both directions and not holding it inside.
Experts say that the film cannot be confidently positioned as a vapor barrier. The raw material is not specially prepared to perform the function of retaining steam in its coating.

Based on the foregoing, it can be understood that plastic film is not the best option. But, if temporary repairs are required or there are no funds, plastic wrap can be considered as an alternative to professional materials.

Mastic for vapor barrier under drywall

Often, mastic is used to provide vapor barrier for gypsum boards. This raw material can be called fully consistent with the requirements of specialists.

Advantages

No preparation is needed to carry out vapor barrier with mastic, no need to pre-prepare the surface of the wall and plasterboard. This option performs its function without interfering with the frame structure.

The mastic is applied directly to the drywall sheets when the blocks have already been installed. A layer of mastic should be laid on the raw material. After the mastic is applied to the surface, a primer, plaster and decorative plasterboard finish are carried out.

disadvantages

Working with mastic is quite messy. But if you properly prepare for the process, then this nuance will not provide the slightest difficulty.
The material described above has more positive aspects than negative ones.

Membrane films for vapor barrier under drywall

Manufacturers offer membrane film as a fundamentally new material intended for the modern generation. In fact, it is. This can be understood by analyzing the positive and negative aspects of the use.

Advantages

Many small holes in the structure allow the membrane film to fully perform the function of a vapor barrier. For this reason, the film is used in the bathroom, kitchen and other rooms with a high level of moisture evaporation.

disadvantages

In order for the vapor barrier membrane film to fully perform its functions, it is necessary to determine which side to fix it to the frame. The membrane film is one-sided, so it only allows air to pass through in one direction. Therefore, you need to be a professional to determine the direction of fastening. If advice is received from the drywall master, then the case can be considered successful.

Vapor barrier mounting options

The process of installing the vapor barrier in the frame is quite simple. There are only two mounting options:

It is fixed on the frame over the insulating layer. In this case, the vapor barrier should be fixed with the sheathing side of the sheet. A beam with a small section is fixed on top, which allows you to hold the sheet and fix it on the frame.
In the second case, a vapor barrier layer is installed with a gap for ventilation. Most often, this option is used when constructing a roof or plasterboard ceiling. Therefore, they try to make the walls as thin as possible so as not to take up the usable area in the room.

Vapor barrier under drywall in different rooms

In the bathroom, in the bedroom or in the kitchen, different levels of moisture evaporation. Therefore, you should consider how to mount on the frame.

Vapor barrier under drywall in the bathroom

When making repairs in the bathroom, you need to pay special attention to the issue of vapor barrier, because in this room there is a rather high level of moisture evaporation.

Watch the video: waterproofing in the bathroom.

When working in the bathroom, the sequence of actions is as follows:

First, the frame of the selected type is installed.
Then thermal insulation is mounted in the frame (if provided).
After that, the moment comes for fixing the vapor barrier into the frame structure.
Depending on the selected material (vapor barrier film or membrane film), the sheets are fixed either with a profile or immediately fixed with a drywall sheet.

It is preferable to opt for waterproofing the bathroom with mastic.

In wooden houses: vapor barrier under drywall

There are some differences in the process when installing a vapor barrier layer in a wooden house. Drywall coatings are popular in a wooden house. The main thing is to adhere to the technology of the process in order to do everything right.

The wooden facade of the house is prone to corrosion and fungi. Therefore, it is best to install a vapor barrier on both sides of the insulation so that moisture and dampness coming from the wood do not get on the surface of the drywall sheets. To do this, you can first, before installing the insulation in the frame, fix the vapor barrier sheets on both sides. This will remove excess moisture from the surface of drywall and wood.

It is not difficult to install a vapor barrier material under drywall ceilings. The main thing is to weigh the important nuances and decide what materials you need to buy, and which installation option is most relevant.

The choice of raw materials to provide vapor barrier properties is a fairly simple task. The main thing is to decide what goals are set, and you also need to pay attention to the cost of the material. A narrow choice of vapor barrier materials makes it impossible to get lost in a multitude of ideas.

See in the video: fixing the vapor barrier in the attic under a metal profile and to aerated concrete walls.

How to make a vapor barrier under drywall

Drywall is the undisputed leader in the construction market in terms of frequency of use in interior finishing work. With it, you can completely redevelop the premises and change it beyond recognition.

This finishing material can be used in any premises, apartment buildings or in summer cottages. When planning construction work, especially in rooms where it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation, the question of the need for vapor barrier is relevant.

Why you need a vapor barrier for drywall and more

Vapor barrier is the process of applying a special vapor barrier film to walls and ceilings. This process is carried out in order to insulate and protect the roof, external and internal walls, as well as ceilings from the penetration of water vapor into the premises. Installing such a film prevents the formation of condensate in the house in cold weather. Particularly relevant is the vapor barrier of the walls from the inside.

Installing a vapor barrier will insulate the following:

pitched roofing with a metal coating (folded roof, profiled sheet or metal tile);
pitched roofing, consisting of a non-metallic coating (slate, "soft" bituminous roofing, natural tiles);
walls with external insulation;
attic rooms, as well as basement ceilings;
baths and saunas.

Although many are quite skeptical about the need for a vapor barrier procedure, you should not neglect it. Of course, without it, repairs will cost a little less. But installing a vapor barrier will allow you to avoid condensation. The presence of condensation in the house during the cold season negatively affects the appearance of the repair. Because of it, wallpaper can peel off, paint deteriorates, and mold and fungi appear in places where condensation forms. Vapor barrier will allow you to keep the house warm and finally get rid of condensate.

In addition, such a film will increase the thermal insulation capabilities of the floors, which, again, will only play into your hands.

The procedure for installing a vapor barrier under drywall is relatively easy, and the material itself is not very expensive. Therefore, this procedure is still worth carrying out, since the benefits from it will be much greater than the minuses.

Internal insulation and vapor barrier under drywall

Many people believe that if the procedure for warming the house from the outside was carried out, then internal vapor barrier is not needed. But this is not a completely true statement.

Carrying out an internal vapor barrier will help you:

eliminate the shortcomings of insulation from the outside;
increase the efficiency of insulation from the outside;
make the room warmer;
prevent mold and mildew. This is especially true for window openings;
reduce heat loss, which will save on heating, the prices of which are constantly growing.

Of the relative disadvantages of insulation and vapor barrier, carried out under drywall, we can mention a slight decrease in free space in the room. But drywall, in most cases, already requires the installation of frame ceilings, which lead to a decrease in space. So if you went for it at the very beginning, it will be much more efficient to use the space under the sheets to install insulation and vapor barrier film. So you kill three birds with one stone: take up free space under the sheets, insulate yourself additionally, and also prevent condensation.

Therefore, doing vapor barrier and insulation is not only necessary, but also advisable.

How to make a vapor barrier under drywall

Drywall should only be installed after special preparation. Without preparatory work, you are unlikely to get at the end of the repair what you expected at the very beginning. In addition, the vapor barrier may not be properly installed, preventing you from enjoying its benefits.

Preparation in this situation involves the following actions:

cleaning walls and ceilings from old finishes;
cleaning the premises from construction debris so that it does not get underfoot during work;
then all cracks should be covered with putty so that they do not crumble and do not interfere with work;
we process the walls with a deep penetration primer;
after the primer dries, we apply an antiseptic to the walls. It will prevent mold and mildew.

Note! Treatment with antiseptic agents before vapor barrier is mandatory, since mold or fungus spores entering the film can lead to their reproduction already inside the room.

Also at this stage, you can draw up a diagram for the frame and apply markings on the prepared surface. So it will be much more convenient to carry out installation work.

Tools and materials for installing a vapor barrier under drywall

Installing a vapor barrier on drywall will require the following tools:

perforator and drill;
building level;
drawing accessories - pencil, tape measure and ruler;
a hammer;
sandpaper;
spatula.

In addition to tools, you will also need the following materials:

vapor barrier film;
drywall sheets. If it is intended to finish rooms with a humid microclimate, it is necessary to use moisture-resistant drywall;
metal profiles or wooden slats;
self-tapping screws, dowels;
sickle;
insulation.

Having all this will allow you to realize your plans without any problems.

How to install drywall with subsequent waterproofing

Drywall can be installed on two types of frame elements:

wooden slats. When installed in rooms where there is moisture, all wood frame elements must be treated with special protective agents in order to extend the life of the wood;
metal profiles. Under drywall, the fastening of just such profiles is often preferred. They are easier to install than wooden slats, and the service life is much longer.

Of course, drywall can be installed without a frame. But this is rather an exception to the rule, since the frameless method is possible only with even walls. In addition, in this case, it will be impossible to install heaters and vapor film under the sheets.

The framework performs several functions:

aligns the curvature of the walls and ceiling;
allows you to easily install a heater in the formed niches of the frame;
is an excellent basis not only for drywall sheets, but also for vapor barrier film.

Note! To perfectly align the wall, you need to find the largest bulge and orient the installation of all profiles or wooden slats along it.

The frame is mounted as follows:

first, we make the lathing of the walls and ceiling around the perimeter using guide profiles. We fasten the profiles to the ceiling and walls from the outside with dowels;
further, using rack profiles, we make an internal crate using horizontal jumpers.

After completing the installation work to create the frame, you can proceed with the installation of insulation.

How to make insulation with subsequent waterproofing

Of course, the vapor barrier film also has certain thermal insulation properties. But this will obviously not be enough, especially if there was no insulation outside the house. Therefore, experts recommend installing an additional layer of insulation under the vapor film.

As a heater, two materials are especially popular today:

mineral wool. It is used most frequently. Fasten it with a special stapler;
Styrofoam. It is slightly inferior in popularity to mineral wool. It is simply installed between the frame elements.

Note! Whatever material you use for insulation, it must be a monolithic layer. All cracks should be sealed either with special adhesive tape, or with mounting foam or silicone sealant.

The warming procedure itself is not difficult. It can be dealt with in just a couple of hours if the room has large dimensions. Therefore, you should not neglect such a procedure, since you will appreciate the benefits of warming on cold winter evenings.

After the insulation comes the turn of the vapor barrier film.

How to make direct waterproofing under drywall

Compared to insulation, everything is much simpler here. The installation process includes the following steps:

unwinding the film from the purchased roll;
stretching it along the perimeter of the walls and ceiling;
it is attached to the profile or wooden slats with small brackets.

Note! A special place in this process is the sealing of corners. The main thing here is to prevent steam from entering the room. Therefore, all joints should be sealed with special tape. In the same way, you need to seal the joints of the film with the walls and ceiling.

That's all there is to it. After the vapor barrier film has been installed, drywall can be mounted on the prepared frame.

The final stage: plasterboard sheathing after vapor barrier

Drywall is attached at the very end, when the insulation and vapor barrier were installed. Sheathing with frame sheets, subject to all the rules, will be just as easy and fast.

To get an excellent result at the output, you will need to do the following manipulations:

let the material lie for a day in the room in which it will be further mounted;
you need to first fix whole sheets, and only then cut the pieces that are not enough for sheathing;
sets the sheets in such a way that their edges fall into the middle of the profile;
try to arrange the plates so that there are no gaps between them. We fasten the sheets as tightly as possible to each other;
Plates are fastened with self-tapping screws. The installation step of self-tapping screws is 20-25 cm;
we deepen the screws into the drywall by 1 mm. Avoid raising the hats above the sheets, otherwise you will not be able to carry out the final finishing normally and efficiently in the future.

How to finish drywall with vapor barrier

After all the manipulations, it remains to do only the following actions:

seal all the cracks between the sheets with a sickle;
putty all the screws on top. Putty also needs to be applied over the sickle;
after the putty has dried, wipe all the irregularities with sandpaper;
then prime all walls and ceiling and allow the mortar to dry.

After that, the resulting design can be given the final look. You can paint it, put ceramic tiles on it, or simply wallpaper it.

As you can see, installing a vapor barrier on a drywall frame base with its subsequent installation is not difficult. You just need to follow the instructions above, and you can achieve complete vapor barrier, as well as thermal insulation of your room.

Of fundamental importance in the ceiling device is a vapor barrier for the ceiling in a wooden floor, which, along with waterproofing layers, protects the thermal layer, boards and beams from moisture.

Wooden structures are hygroscopic, they allow moisture and steam to pass through, which some heat-insulating materials are afraid of - mineral wool turns to stone from dampness, polyurethane foam collapses over time. Therefore, when arranging thermal insulation, the layer must be covered with hydro- and vapor barrier films. How is vapor barrier performed in a wooden house, and what materials are used?

Vapor barrier materials - which is better?

Vapor barrier materials are designed to protect the insulation from warm, moist air that enters the insulation from the room. He is absolutely impenetrable. The waterproofing layer does not let moisture into the insulation, but it releases warm air and steam trapped in the insulation.

Thus, waterproofing materials have a one-way throughput. Therefore, it is extremely important to be able to distinguish between both of these materials, and during installation, do not confuse the side with which the film will be stuffed on the ceiling.

Russian consumers prefer the following manufacturers:

TechnoNIKOL is an international corporation, a manufacturer of roofing and building insulation materials. The corporation's factories are located in England, Germany, Italy, Lithuania, Belarus and Russia;
Russian manufacturer of moisture and vapor barrier materials;
DuPont is an American chemical company that develops Tyvek insulation materials.

These and other manufacturers offer builders the following types of materials:

Perforated reinforced polyethylene films are used (for waterproofing), non-perforated films are used for vapor barrier. Polyethylene films have a significant drawback - low strength.
Polypropylene vapor barrier films are much stronger than polyethylene, while the price is not much higher.
Foil films are films coated with aluminum. Such materials are more often used for vapor barrier of wooden baths. Foil films withstand temperatures over 100°C. Metal foil has a tendency to corrode, so when asked which vapor barrier is better, builders unequivocally believe that a film with aluminum foil.

Vapor barrier in a wooden house

The vapor barrier film is fastened with a stapler, the film is attached to beams, other wooden ceiling structures. It should be directed with the porous side to the thermal insulation and, thus, the thermal insulation will be able to breathe, but the vapors and warm air from the room will not be able to penetrate into the thermal insulation layer.

It is important to know that the vapor barrier material is overlapped by about 5-7 cm. It is recommended to glue the joints with construction tape to reduce the presence of cracks that allow moisture to pass into the insulation.

From below, under the film, an unedged board with a thickness of 15-25 mm is stuffed at a certain interval. More precisely, it is not nailed, but fastened with self-tapping screws, thereby increasing the strength of the fastening. This board, on the one hand, is designed to hold the insulating layers, and on the other hand, elements of a suspended or stretch ceiling are attached to it.

Vapor barrier in the bath

A bath, bathroom, or home sauna are rooms with high humidity. The Russian bath at the moment when it is melted is a living hell, where the air turns into continuous steam. The steam room becomes a hell not only for people with a weak heart, but also for walls, ceilings, thermal insulation, if they are not protected by a special vapor barrier film. A fungus starts on damp wood, the material undergoes rotting and deterioration. And to prevent this from happening, vapor barrier must be carried out with greater care than in living rooms.

To protect the wooden structures of the bath and the layers of insulation, it is not recommended to use polyethylene vapor barrier, since this material does not withstand high temperatures. The film may melt. The bath room is small, not much material will go to it. There is no need to save on the quality of construction work, respectively, on your own health.

To reduce the hygroscopicity of wood, it is recommended to cover the beams and floor boards with drying oil. For vapor barrier, aluminum-coated polypropylene films or aluminum-foiled films should be selected.

The film is overlapped with a margin of up to 15 cm with a matte side to the ceiling boards, with a foil layer - down into the room. The shiny layer reflects infrared heat radiation, returning it back to the bath. It is not necessary to stretch the film strongly, it is recommended to allow slight sagging, because in the cold the film shrinks, stretches and can quickly burst. The joints are glued with metallized heat-resistant adhesive tape. It is advisable to fill the vapor barrier layer indoors in 2 layers.

In order to keep the heat in the bath even in harsh winters, it is necessary to lay thermal and vapor barrier for the ceiling of the bath from two sides: from the inside of the room and from the side of the attic. The same applies to the walls of the bath.

The vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bathroom in a wooden house is carried out in the same way as the vapor barrier for the ceiling of the bath.

Properly performed insulation of ceilings and walls will protect the house from damage and destruction for many years, and the house itself will be warm and cozy

Moisture protection of the floor and walls in the bathroom and other premises with plumbing is the most important stage of finishing work, since there is a possibility of leaks.

This measure is even more significant in a wooden house: wood is an organic material, therefore, in damp conditions, it becomes a place of intensive reproduction of fungi and other microorganisms.

We will consider ways to protect against moisture in this article, the topic of which is: materials.

The list of materials that protect against moisture is very extensive. All of them are divided into three groups: pasting, impregnation.

Coating materials

They have the appearance of a viscous liquid (mastic) or paste.

Advantages:

a seamless coating is created;
there is a possibility of processing hard-to-reach places.

According to their composition, coating materials are divided into the following types:

bitumen and bitumen-polymer. Polymer-modified bitumen, compared to pure bitumen, is less prone to cracking and better tolerates temperature changes;
polymeric. This group includes butyl rubber, latex and other mastics. They are characterized by high elasticity and durability. This also includes epoxy and polyurethane self-leveling floors;
cement-polymer;
acrylic.

For waterproofing the wooden floor in the bathroom, bitumen-polymer and polymer mastics are mainly used.

As with any interior work, formulations with the least toxic emissions, in particular those containing no solvent, are preferred.

Pasting materials

They look like panels and are supplied in rolls, therefore they are often called roll materials.

According to their composition, they are divided into the following types:

bituminous: roofing material and glassine. Tol is a material based on tar. The cheapest varieties, but short-lived - prone to cracking. Installation is carried out by gluing on the mastic;
polymer films. The most common are polyethylene and polypropylene. The disadvantage of these materials is low strength;
bitumen-polymer. Surpass pure bituminous in elasticity and durability. Another advantage: instead of cardboard that is fragile and unstable to biological aggression, strong, elastic, non-rotting materials are used as the basis - fiberglass, fiberglass, polyester. In addition to gluing, they can be mounted by fusing: the lower layer is heated with a burner to a state of plasticity, after which the material is glued to the base. This group is quite numerous: bikrost, rubemast, steklobit, hydrostekloizol, etc. In everyday life, these materials are often called the general term "euroroofing material";
polymer membranes. They are distinguished by high puncture resistance and therefore are used even as roofing materials.

When carrying out internal work, especially in a room with wooden floors, the fusing method is not used because of the risk of fire.

Polymer membranes are divided into three types:

rubber (EPDM membranes). The raw material is ethylene-propylene-diene synthetic rubber. Separate panels are connected with glue;
polyvinyl chloride (PVC) membranes. Replaced rubber. The advantage is the ability to connect individual fragments into a whole canvas by thermal welding. Welding requires a special apparatus. This is the only reason rubber membranes are still sometimes used instead of PVC;
thermoplastic polyolefins (TPO). Like PVC membranes, they can be heat-sealed. Surpass them in environmental friendliness, but less elastic.

The membranes are glued with mastics or fixed mechanically. Varieties are produced with an adhesive layer on one side (self-adhesive).

Impregnation

Impregnations include the following components:

water-repellent cement;
crushed sand;
chemical additives.

The composition cements the pores of the tree and covers it with a protective sheath, making it resistant to moisture. But in residential areas, the use of such funds is not recommended.

Types of wood for the floor in the bathroom

Tree species tolerate moisture in different ways.

In the bathroom and other similar rooms, it is recommended to use the most moisture resistant:

larch;
teak. This wood is abundantly impregnated with oil, which explains its increased resistance to moisture;
Cork tree. This breed is attractive not only for its moisture resistance, but also for its durability. Cork is the bark of a special variety of oak. It is also called cork tree, as well as cork and western oak;
thermotree. This is wood treated with superheated steam in an oxygen-free environment. As a result, it acquires resistance not only to moisture, but also to fungi.

Preparatory work

Before the waterproofing device, the following operations are performed:

the floor is cleared of debris;
inspect for damage. Detected cracks, crevices and other defects are sealed with mastic on wood;
garbage is removed again and then the floor is treated with bio- and fire-retardant impregnations;
coat the floor and walls to a height of 20-25 cm with a primer (primer). It improves adhesion and prevents the wood from absorbing the waterproofing mastic. Use the composition recommended by the manufacturer of the waterproofing material. Often a bituminous emulsion primer is used that does not contain a solvent (diluted with water);
continue work after the primer has dried, which should be verified by applying a cotton pad. The last one must remain clean;
after the primer has dried, corners, seams between the boards and other places where moisture can seep in can be sealed with waterproofing self-adhesive tape. The zones of the passage of engineering communications are sealed with rubber liners and also pasted over with tape.

According to the requirements of SNiP, the surface of the finished floor in the bathroom should be several centimeters below the floor in the adjacent room, and a threshold is installed at the entrance.

Floor waterproofing technology

The process of floor waterproofing with roll materials includes the following steps:

The joints between the tiles are filled with a moisture-resistant grout with a bioprotective additive (fungicidal). Epoxy grout has the highest moisture resistance, but in this case it is not advisable to use it.

The material is expensive, difficult to work with and intended only for coatings with frequent direct exposure to water. In the bathroom, cement grout mixed with latex instead of water will suffice.

With the use of coating compositions

It is appropriate to consider the technology using the example of the popular Hidroflex polyurea resin-based sealant paste (TM Litokol), product advantages:

no smell;
does not emit toxic substances;
is a one-component composition, therefore preparation (mixing with a hardener or polymerizer) is not required;
it has high elasticity, therefore it retains integrity during shrinkage of a wooden house;
paste can be applied at a temperature of +5 - +40 0 С, and operated - at -30 - +100 0 С.

Waterproofing is done in the following order:

the floor and walls are primed with a primer from the list recommended by the manufacturer;
the corners between the floor and walls are glued with waterproofing tape, using sealant paste instead of glue;
after 40 min. after treatment with a primer, a roller or a wide spatula, a sealant paste is applied. The operation is allowed to be carried out at temperatures from +5C to +40C. First cover the walls, then the floor. Layer thickness - 1-2 mm;
after waiting for the first layer to dry, a second one of the same thickness is applied. In this case, the direction of movement of the tool is rotated by 90 degrees. The total consumption of the mixture is 1.3-1.5 kg/m 2 .

Waterproofing mastic Hidroflex

Hidroflex paste dries in 10-20 hours (depending on temperature and humidity), but the tiles can only be glued after 25-30 hours. Elastic polyurethane base is used.

Wooden flooring in the bathroom

The floor in the bathroom on wooden beams sometimes requires a concrete screed. So that the surface after the screed device does not rise much above the floor level throughout the house, the beams should be laid a little lower in this room. To insulate this surface in a wooden house, heat-insulating material is placed in the gap between the beams.

To increase the reliability of the floor, it is necessary to make a drain sewer ladder. It is connected to the general sewer system. Thanks to the ladder, accidentally trapped water is removed from the surface. When installing a screed in this room, make it slope towards the ladder. A slope of 1.5% is usually sufficient.

Important! So that there are no problems with the wooden floor in the future, only whole high-quality sewer pipes are laid. Plastic sewer systems are reliably protected from leaks.

If the wooden floor in the bathroom is not made according to the screed, then they are laid on the logs:

cement particle boards;
moisture resistant plywood in two layers;
flat slate is also suitable for these purposes.

Bathroom floor waterproofing

If you make wooden floors in the bathroom with your own hands, then it is important to arrange high-quality waterproofing. The waterproofing layer will reliably protect the beams from moisture, decay and damage by microorganisms. It is also necessary to isolate the lower part of the walls from moisture. Usually they are covered with insulating material from below to a height of at least 200 mm.

If you do not know how to waterproof a wooden floor in a bathroom, then one of two types of insulating materials is used for this:

adhesive insulation;
coating insulating materials.

These insulators protect the wooden floor in the bathroom equally well from moisture. The differences between them are only in the method of application. Let's consider their features in more detail.

Waterproofing materials

To perform surface sealing using roll materials, apply:

roofing material and roofing felt (they are the cheapest and short-lived);
isoplast;
ecoflex;
mostoplast;
isoelast.

Important! Roll-type insulation is longer and more difficult to lay, but further work begins immediately after laying.

They are laid in the following sequence:

The preparatory work consists in the fact that the base must be leveled, dried well and primed.
There are several ways to lay insulating materials:

ordinary roll material is laid on the adhesive composition;
no adhesive layer is needed when using self-adhesive insulators. In this case, before laying, the protective coating is removed from the back of the product, and the material is tightly glued to the base;
it is also possible to cover the base in this room with the help of built-up insulating coatings. In this case, gluing occurs under the influence of high temperatures. A gas burner is used to heat the material;
there is still floating waterproofing, but its laying is quite complicated and requires certain knowledge and skills.

Attention! Rolled materials are laid with an overlap of strips by 100 mm. The coating must be welded onto the lower part of the walls or attached to them using a construction stapler.

The easiest way is to waterproof the floor in the bathroom in a wooden house with your own hands using coating materials. For this, mastics based on bitumen without an unpleasant odor are used. These materials are resistant to aggressive impact and elevated temperatures. They adhere well to the base.

Instructions for the use of coating waterproofing differ depending on the type of material:

If you decide to surface bituminous composition, then know that there are products for cold and hot application. Hot coatings are heated to 160 degrees before laying, so certain skills are required to work. Cold compounds are easier to install, but they should not come into contact with the concrete base.
Bitumen-polymer insulating materials contain latex fillers, organic solvents and plasticizers. Suitable for laying on any substrate without preheating. The result is a very strong and durable insulating layer.
Polymer-cement compositions adhere well to the concrete base, because they contain cement in their composition. The result is a stable and flexible protective layer.
Acrylic waterproofing mixtures produced on the basis of water. These aqueous emulsions are odorless and environmentally friendly. Acrylic compounds give a plastic and durable coating, but cost a lot.

Advice! To improve the quality and reliability of the waterproofing layer, coating compositions are applied in 2 layers.

The choice of finishing material

Most often, the floor in the bathroom in a wooden house is made of ceramic tiles. This material is distinguished by an acceptable price, attractiveness, unpretentiousness in care, strength and wear resistance. Ceramic tiles are used in underfloor heating systems. Moreover, it is easy to choose an option with imitation wood, which will harmoniously fit into a wooden house. The tile is laid only on an inactive concrete base.

If you want to know how to cover the wooden floor in the bathroom, in addition to tiles, then the following materials are suitable for this purpose:

laminate;
linoleum;
massive board.

Consider the features of each coverage.

Linoleum

This is a budget option for covering the bathroom. Linoleum is characterized by low flammability, durability and resistance to moisture. The most wear-resistant linoleum belongs to commercial grades. For a bathroom house made of wood, a material with imitation of a plank floor is more suitable.

Linoleum is laid directly on the waterproofing layer. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is very large, then the joints of the strips of material must be spliced using the hot method in order to reliably protect the base from moisture.

Laminate

A laminate that accurately imitates a wood surface will successfully fit into the interior of a wooden house. It is better to purchase high-quality, wear-resistant products. They are more expensive, but also more durable.

Important! For the bathroom, only a moisture-resistant laminate with increased wear resistance is suitable.

Wood

Few owners of such houses dare to make wooden flooring in the bathroom. This is explained by fears that the wood will rot, mold and deteriorate from getting wet. Moreover, with changes in temperature and humidity in the room, many wooden surfaces are subject to deformation. However, if you know what type of wood to use for such premises, then many problems can be avoided.

Important! For the floor in the bathroom, only teak and larch wood is suitable.

Since teak contains a lot of oils, the wood is resistant to moisture. Teak has been used in shipbuilding since ancient times. To seal the gaps between the boards, a special ship sealant is used. Due to the high cost of materials, this type of finish is rarely used. Larch is not as expensive as teak, so it is more popular.

Wood is one of the most environmentally friendly and safe building materials. Wooden houses began to be built many centuries ago, and today wood is widely used in the construction of country houses, summer cottages, cottages, and outbuildings. Compared to other materials for building construction, wood is more demanding in terms of care and has a shorter service life. One of the worst enemies of a wooden house is moisture. Exposure to moisture can cause fungus and mold to develop, destroying wood and causing it to rot. In addition to the destructive effect on wood, fungus and mold adversely affect human health, releasing toxins and toxic compounds. Living in such a room becomes hazardous to health, and children and those who are prone to manifestations of various types of allergies are the first to suffer. Therefore, waterproofing wooden walls is a top priority when building a house. The insulating coating will protect the wooden house from high humidity and prevent the occurrence of mold and fungus.

In ancient times, no special methods were used to protect wooden walls from moisture. The builders cut the ends of the logs with an ax, thereby sealing the pores of the wood, and the cracks and crevices were simply sealed with moss. Today, there are various methods of waterproofing, and many special protective products are produced to protect wooden buildings from environmental influences and thereby significantly increase their service life, maintain performance and appearance.

What is the waterproofing of the walls of a wooden house

When erecting wooden buildings, it uses several different types of waterproofing, including:

coating or its variety - painting;
pasting;
asphalt;
hard.

Coating waterproofing of wooden walls is made using mortars using bitumen or emulsion as a base and containing special fillers and additives. Such a coating is applied to the inner or outer surface of the walls in a single layer with a thickness of about 5 mm. Its variety, paint waterproofing, is produced using special liquid or plastic compositions applied sequentially in three layers, the coating thickness is 0.5-0.7 mm. When choosing this type of insulation, it should be borne in mind that coating and painting waterproofing protect the surface of wooden walls only from the penetration of capillary moisture, that is, they cope with their protective function in the absence of hydrostatic pressure.

Pasting waterproofing is made using roll materials, which are mounted using mastic. Most often, isol, roofing material, hydroisol, etc. are used as pasting insulating materials. The material is fixed using hot and cold mastics. Before applying a layer of mastic to the surface, experts advise applying a layer of primer. Most often, the surface is pasted over from the hydrostatic head. The waterproofing material can be laid in several layers, depending on the strength of the hydrostatic head and the humidity category.

Pasting waterproofing is carried out using rolled insulating materials

Asphalt waterproofing is produced by laying a solid layer of asphalt mass with a layer thickness of up to one and a half centimeters. Such a coating can be applied both on horizontal and on inclined surfaces in the basements of wooden houses. Asphalt waterproofing is available in two varieties: hot and cold. Hot mastics are more durable, but their cost is significantly higher than that of cold ones. The waterproofing properties of hot asphalt appear after it cools, and for cold asphalt - after it dries.

The most time-consuming way to protect a wooden house from moisture is rigid waterproofing. The protective coating is carried out in the form of a layer of plaster, consisting of cement and sand, which is applied first to the walls and floor of the basement, and then to the floor in the house itself. For such insulation, it is best to choose waterproof cement that does not shrink. In addition, Portland cement, which includes sealants, is often used in waterproofing work. Rigid waterproofing is the most reliable protection against moisture for wooden buildings.

All these waterproofing methods are used both for floors and walls in a wooden house. High-quality waterproofing will protect the wooden structure from the damaging effects of moisture, the occurrence of fungus and mold and will significantly extend the life of the house. It should be borne in mind that along with the external waterproofing of a wooden building, care must be taken to protect the internal space from moisture. Internal waterproofing of wooden walls is carried out by treating their surface with special sealants. When treating the wall surface with such a waterproof sealant, special attention should be paid to the seams and joints of the logs.

Waterproofing with plaster will reliably protect the walls of the building from moisture

When choosing the type of waterproofing coating for wooden walls, first of all, they pay attention to what kind of exterior and interior cosmetic finishes the house will have. If you plan to preserve the natural look of wood as much as possible, paint waterproofing would be the best choice. The adhesive insulation needs additional protection from the outside before finishing work on the building.

Creating a moisture barrier in the bathroom of a wooden house

As you know, fungus and mold very often appear in the bathroom. Since the level of humidity in the bathroom is constantly elevated, additional waterproofing measures are required in the bathroom.

Equipping a bathroom in a wooden house, you need to consider the following points:

a prerequisite is the preliminary waterproofing of the walls;
to protect the surface of the walls from exposure to a high concentration of moisture in combination with high air temperature, it is recommended to use special vapor-proof films.

The surface of the walls is pre-plastered with special mixtures and treated with fungicidal and antibacterial protective compounds. After that, putty is applied to the walls and a fine finish is made. Instead of vapor barrier films, bitumen roll insulation materials can also be used.

What to pay attention to when carrying out waterproofing work

Waterproofing the walls of a wooden house is a complex process that requires an integrated approach. In order for the building to be reliably protected from moisture, it is important that both external and internal waterproofing of its walls and ventilation of the facade system be carried out. The latter condition is especially relevant in the construction of log houses.

Waterproofing the walls of a wooden house will help extend the life of the building for many years.

In houses made of rounded logs, most often additional facade decoration is not performed. In buildings made of profiled timber, after the final shrinkage of the log house, as a rule, a facade system is installed, where the following are used as finishing materials:

siding and corrugated board;
decorative wall stone and brick;
plaster facade mixtures;
eurolining.

When installing a facade finish, it should be borne in mind that the wooden part of the wall structure must have access to air, the wood must “breathe”.

In addition to waterproofing wall structures, wooden buildings also require protection from groundwater. If the building does not have a basement, it is possible to install a protective inter-foundation layer of roofing felt or roofing felt. If the house has a basement, the inter-foundation layer will not be able to reliably protect the building from groundwater. In this case, when laying the foundation, concrete blocks are coated with a special waterproof compound.

Waterproofing wooden walls is very important to protect the structure from moisture.

Waterproofing the walls of a wooden house is a complex labor-intensive process. In order for the building to be reliably protected from the damaging effects of moisture, fungus and mold did not appear in the house, and its walls did not lose their operational characteristics for a long time, it is necessary that waterproofing work be carried out competently and professionally, taking into account all the structural features of the building. Only in the case of waterproofing by professional experienced builders, you can be sure that your house will serve for many years, and life in it will be cozy, comfortable and safe for health.

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Waterproofing a bathroom in a wooden house. Materials for waterproofing a wooden floor in a bathroom Coating waterproofing for a bathroom in a wooden house