How to lay linoleum on various surfaces. How to lay linoleum correctly - a simple and understandable instruction What is the best way to lay linoleum

Installation of any floor covering is the final and very important step in finishing the floor. The durability of the coating and its aesthetic appearance depend on the correct flooring. Proper flooring is not only following the general instructions, but also taking into account all the nuances regarding a particular type of flooring, be it laminate or linoleum. Therefore, it would be logical to note that you need to start with a choice.

Once the choice has been made, the materials have been purchased, it is important to follow both general and particular recommendations for laying a particular type of linoleum on a particular floor (concrete, wood, plywood). Let's consider everything in more detail.

The right conditions

It is very important to observe the temperature regime. The temperature in the room should not be lower than +15 degrees, and the temperature of the base, regardless of whether it is a concrete or wooden floor, should vary between +15 and +25 degrees.

Before laying linoleum on the floor on your own, you need to give the material time for the so-called acclimatization in the expanded and straightened form. Time for acclimatization - not less than a day, and in winter it increases up to 3 days.

Important Details

• Before you start cutting linoleum, it is better to draw up a plan of the room in order to determine the most convenient and correct cutting option. This will achieve the most rational use of the material, so that the residual pieces are as small as possible, or they are larger.
• Depending on the type of base floor and its condition, it is necessary to decide whether a substrate for linoleum will be needed, and if so, which one.
• Linoleum type: multi-layer or single-layer, natural (marmoleum) or PVC. Each type has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.
• Canvas sizes. If you are looking for how to properly lay linoleum on the floor with your own hands, then it is very important to choose the right laying technology, which, in turn, depends on whether the canvas is solid, or several pieces of linoleum will be installed.
• Glue type. The adhesive composition is also very important to choose not only the type of linoleum coating, but also the base material.

Foundation preparation

The key to how to lay linoleum in a room or in the kitchen yourself correctly is the careful preparation of the base, that is, the base floor.

For the correct laying of linoleum coatings, the following types of bases are acceptable:

• covering from rigid sheet materials such as plywood, chipboard, MDF, etc.;
• cement floor screed;
• monolithic floor slab or concrete floor without defects;
• a wooden floor is less preferable, as the joints between the boards will show through over time.

A guarantee of the reliability of the laid linoleum coating is the careful preparation of the base. Linoleum material manufacturers strongly recommend that the base floor be:

• monolithic, that is, it is necessary to carefully eliminate and repair all joints, seams, cracks, potholes and chips;
• smooth, which is achieved by using a screed, repair mortar or using self-leveling floor technology (according to SNiP 2.03.13-88, for every 2 meters of floor there should be a difference of no more than 2 mm);
• durable (150-300 kg per square centimeter);
• dry (the percentage of moisture for a combined screed should be no more than 8%, for cement - no more than 4%, for anhydrite - no more than 0.5%), so special waterproofing primers can be used if necessary;
• clean, dust-free.

Is it possible to lay linoleum on linoleum?

Theoretically, of course, it is possible, but the flooring cannot be called high-quality and even. Any professional will recommend removing the old linoleum, and any other coating: laminate, parquet, carpet. Ideally, even remove the paintwork of the floor, if any.

Therefore, an unequivocal answer to the question: “Can I lay linoleum on old linoleum?” - no, if quality, strength and durability are in the first place for you!

After the old coating is removed and the surface is dust-free, it is necessary to treat the base with special compounds and apply a primer.

Processing the base with special compounds

Before laying linoleum on the floor, you need to treat the base with special compositions, which are selected depending on the type of base. Waterproofing compositions, flame retardants, antiseptics - each of them performs its task.

Primer application

What is it for?

1. The primer, being absorbed into the surface of the base, strengthens its upper layers and prevents the penetration of liquid.
2. The primer coating increases the adhesion of the substrate. Linoleum, when laid on the base floor, adjoins and sticks better.
3. The soil does not allow dust to accumulate, therefore, when applying glue, it will lie evenly over the entire surface of the floor, and will not roll into lumps.

So, the coating is prepared, and the crucial moment comes - laying linoleum.

How to lay linoleum yourself: instructions

Fitting linoleum flooring

If the room is small and a single piece of linoleum is enough, then fitting the coating is quite simple - you need to carefully cover the floor surface with linoleum so that the material wraps a little on the walls.

• It is important to carefully level the linoleum, removing air from under it, removing all bumps and bends.
• Further along the edges of the linoleum is cut off.

ATTENTION! When trimming around the perimeter, it is important to leave compensation gaps 0.5-1 cm wide.

• The next stage is the design of external and internal corners. The cutting of corners is carried out according to the following technology: the coating is gently pressed to the junction point connecting the vertical surface and the floor, then a cross-shaped incision is made on the canvas 3-5 mm wide, the edges of the coating are parted to the sides. You need to work very carefully so as not to cut off the excess.
• After the excess is cut off, you need to fix the edges with double-sided tape or put on glue, or fix the linoleum in a pre-selected method.

Bonding linoleum sheets

How to lay linoleum yourself if it consists of several parts?

• The design of the joints with a special decorative strip, which can be matched to the color of linoleum.
• Docking pieces of linoleum with glue.

The latter method is more professional, but also more time consuming. Let's consider it in more detail. First you need to clearly combine the pieces of linoleum according to the pattern.

ATTENTION! If linoleum does not have a clearly defined pattern (granite chips, specks, sand), then it is recommended to lay its canvases in reverse, that is, in opposite directions. If the pattern is clearly expressed, with a clear repetition of rapport, then the laying of pieces of linoleum should be carried out strictly in one direction with a clear alignment of the pattern.

After the pattern is combined, under the pieces of linoleum (under the intended cut line), double-sided tape or adhesive tape is attached, which is necessary to prevent the edges and parts of the linoleum from shifting. Next, the linoleum sheets are superimposed one on top of the other with a small gap-overlapping 4-5 mm wide.

Using a metal ruler and a very sharp blade, an incision is made along the entire length of the joint strictly in the middle of the overlap. Next, a special glue is introduced into the seam, and the edges of the seam are pressed tightly against the base floor.

Fixing linoleum to the floor

As mentioned above, fixing linoleum to the floor when it is properly laid can be done in several ways.

1. Without gluing. This is ideal for small rooms or kitchens, for which a solid sheet of linoleum is enough. In this case, the laid linoleum is fixed along the edges with double-sided tape, staples or adhesive tape, and then pressed with decorative skirting boards around the perimeter.
2. Glue fixing. It is important to understand here that if you are going to change the floor covering in a few years, then it will be unrealistically difficult and very laborious to dismantle linoleum from a floor completely covered with glue. Therefore, we recommend applying adhesive along the perimeter of the web, crosswise and dotted on the inner surface.

In any of the above methods, linoleum must be “rolled” with a special roller, pressing the canvas to the floor. So you will ensure a stronger bonding of the canvas with the base.

How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor?

A wooden floor, especially from floorboards, is a rather capricious base for linoleum, which must be carefully prepared.

Attention! It is important to repair a wooden floor before laying a linoleum coating on it: eliminate creaking, replace old boards with new ones if necessary, apply a bioprotective composition to the entire surface.

• Before laying linoleum with your own hands on a wooden floor, you must:
• carefully remove the paintwork of the floor;
• dismantle skirting boards;
• repair, putty cracks and chips, install patches on gaps in a wooden floor;
• “plant” the floor on self-tapping screws, screwing them to a depth of 5-7 mm in order to level the surface, and then walk with a grinder;
• dust the surface of the wooden floor with a vacuum cleaner, wash the floor thoroughly and let it dry.

What to lay under linoleum on a wooden floor?

Attention! Particular attention should be paid to leveling the surface of the base floor so that the linoleum floor lays flat. If the wood floor is old enough, a plywood underlay is a great way to level it.

Before laying linoleum on plywood, plywood sheets should be mounted on the floor with an offset relative to each other (ideally, in a checkerboard pattern). There should be no gaps between the sheets (they must be carefully sealed), and at the joints with the walls it is better to leave gaps 1 cm wide.

Plywood also needs to be treated with special compounds and a primer, and before that, an abrasive walk (if the plywood surface is smooth enough) to ensure a more reliable adhesion of plywood and linoleum.

How to lay linoleum on a concrete floor?

Laying linoleum with your own hands on a concrete floor is also not difficult, but rather troublesome and time-consuming if the concrete coating is old, crooked, and requires restoration and repair. As mentioned above, if the surface difference is large enough, then it is necessary to level the surface.

For these purposes, a concrete-cement screed using a reinforcing mesh is suitable. The leveled surface must be allowed to dry thoroughly. Further, all floor defects are eliminated, and the base surface itself is prepared for the installation of linoleum according to the standard rules indicated above. The procedure for how to properly lay linoleum on a concrete floor, in fact, does not differ from the standard one. The most important thing is to carefully prepare the surface.

Necessary tools and materials

In order to lay linoleum on the floor yourself correctly, in addition to the linoleum sheet, you may need:

• various compositions for repairing the base, leveling, eliminating defects;
• level, steel rail, metal ruler;
• marker, tape measure, construction knife for cutting;
• construction vacuum cleaner (powerful home is suitable);
• a short-haired roller and a notched trowel suitable for applying the adhesive;
• rubber roller or lapping board for smoothing linoleum to the floor;
• double-sided tape or masking tape;
• soil composition;
• adhesive composition for attaching linoleum to the floor;
• glue "cold welding" for gluing seams;
• skirting boards and accessories, decorative strips, thresholds.

VIDEO: how to lay linoleum with your own hands

By the way, you can order and buy linoleum on the pages of the construction portal site, where only the most relevant offers from reliable suppliers and manufacturers of linoleum materials are presented.

Photo and video materials found on the Internet and presented for informational purposes.

About all the advantages and disadvantages of putting a new linoleum on the old one, they still argue. For this type of flooring, there are contraindications, in the presence of which this type of laying will not allow you to get a high quality result. Also, flooring involves many nuances that must be taken into account.

Advantages and disadvantages

To begin with, a few words should be said directly about the linoleum coating. It is the cheapest type among all existing ones, however, this does not mean at all that it looks cheap and does not serve well.

On the contrary, linoleum does not require special care. It does not need to be polished or cleaned too thoroughly, since dirt practically does not stick to it, and therefore all care comes down to ordinary wiping with a damp cloth and timely repair of bumps and damage.

The old coating does not always turn out to be old in fact. So, in some cases, it simply may not fit the atmosphere of the room, not be combined with it in color or style. In this case, the most logical would be to lay the new linoleum on top of the old one.

This method has many advantages:

• Laying a new coating on top of the old one saves a lot of time that would have been spent on dismantling the old coating, surface preparation and other preparatory procedures.
• Due to the fact that it is not necessary to dismantle and install an insulating coating, significant cost savings are achieved.
• If you lay a new layer on the old one without dismantling it, this will help to avoid the formation of debris and dirt during work (not quite, of course, but their number will be much less than with a complete re-laying of linoleum).
• Since the old canvas will serve as a kind of bedding, in this way it will be possible to achieve a high level of noise and heat insulation.
• Due to the double layer of linoleum, the floor will become softer, concealing the sound of steps.

Despite all these advantages, the method also has a number of disadvantages:

• The possibility of early damage to the canvas with insufficient preparation of the old coating, which serves as the basis. There is a possibility that the new floor will go in waves, creases will form on it.
• There are also risks of mold and fungus development if the builder “did not finish it” during installation. The fungus from the substrate will easily spread to a new layer of linoleum, and this is fraught with health problems in the future. Some types of fungus can contribute to the development of asthma and other respiratory problems.
• With the formation of creases and holes, it will be much harder to repair the canvas than if it were laid on a concrete base.

Thus, you need to carefully weigh the pros and cons before deciding to install a new layer of linoleum on top of the old one, and only then start planning such an important decision.

In what cases can you put?

Laying new linoleum on top of the old one seems like an easy way out, however, in reality, everything is not at all simple.

There are indications that it is possible to put linoleum on top of an existing one. Ignoring them will quickly damage the new coating, so a complete re-laying will be a more economical option:

• Existing flooring deserves careful attention. Pay attention not so much to its beauty, but to its current state. Cracks in the layer that do not form a relief or a height difference of no more than 1.5 mm can be ignored and not considered as a stop signal for the specified method of installing new linoleum.
• Pay attention to how the canvas is fixed. If it fits snugly to the floor and, so to speak, is glued tightly, there are no contraindications. Examine the floor very carefully, so you can see the existing voids and quickly eliminate them.
• If your linoleum has antiseptic impregnation, then you are very lucky. Most likely, you will not find fungus or other vegetation here.

If you cannot boast of having such an impregnation, it is best to pay close attention to the presence of anomalies that even remotely resemble a fungus. If you did not find anything, then the canvas is suitable for use as a substrate.

• The evenness of the floor also plays a significant role. It happens that the old linoleum was laid directly on the wavy floor, and as a result it was torn and cracked. If the floor does not have any drops and can be called even, then laying a new layer on top of the previous one is possible.
• The service life of the previous layer is also important. If it has been laid relatively recently, there is no reason to refuse to use it as a substrate. On the contrary, a complete dismantling would be a stupid decision, since, in the long run, it will be more expensive and energy-intensive.
• It plays a role and the correspondence of the old coating by type and the new one. Linoleum is divided into the following varieties: household, semi-commercial, commercial and special. They differ in the degree of wear resistance. Ideally, when the new linoleum belongs to the same type as the already laid one (for example, it is good to lay household on household, commercial on commercial, etc.).

In general, there are quite a few indications for approving the laying of linoleum over an existing coating.

It is extremely important that your option fully meets these requirements, otherwise the situation may not play out in your favor, and the resulting floor will not produce the desired effect.

Why can't you do styling?

There may be several options:

• First of all, you can not lay a new layer on the old linoleum if it is not firmly fixed to the base. An indicator can be voids, swellings and so-called waves. If the voids are small, you can try to eliminate them with improvised means using cold welding, however, if the entire linoleum sheet, roughly speaking, is attached only to baseboards, it is better to completely dismantle and make new floors properly.
• Regardless of what type of linoleum is laid, its service life should not go out. For example, often the question of installing one coating on another arises before the owners of floors left over from Soviet times. It is clear that it will be very difficult to tear off a tightly glued linoleum coating, however, this must be done if its service life has already passed the fifteen-year milestone.
• Laying such an overlap on an uneven floor is also not the best idea. It will repeat with accuracy not only all bends, but also every damage and very soon lose its presentable appearance.
• An important contraindication is the presence of fungus or mold.

• An untidy, dusty coating is not suitable for laying a new floor over it. The fact is that dust pollution affects human health in the same way as mold and fungus, not to mention the fact that dust mites often start up in them, which are no less dangerous.
• A contraindication for installation is a linoleum coating assembled from several tiles or strips. The fact is that over time, the existing joints will still part, forming dents in the substrate, which, in turn, will cause damage to the upper canvas.

• It is not recommended to lay on top of existing felt-backed linoleum, as it will cause problems with gluing it. You can’t put such a model on an ordinary sealant or double-sided tape, you will definitely need to purchase expensive materials, so it’s cheaper and better to just completely re-lay the floors.
• The most obvious contraindication is the prohibition on such an installation, dictated by the manufacturer of the model you have chosen. For example, Tarkett linoleums are often not suitable for such installation; they can only be laid on a concrete or plywood main floor.

It will definitely not work to unequivocally answer the question of how best to lay linoleum - on the old coating or on the vacated floor. Both methods have their advantages, however, it would still be more logical and correct to choose dismantling.

How to remove the old coating?

If you have analyzed the existing situation in your house and come to the conclusion that the floor does not meet the necessary requirements or fits most of the cons parameters, you may have a logical question about removing the old linoleum.

In this case, skill and patience will be required, as well as following the instructions below:

• First you need to completely free the room from any items standing on the floor. Remove all furniture, remove baseboards.
• Vacuum and clean your pores. It is easier to dismantle a clean floor covering, as it lends itself better to softening.
• On the old canvas at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other, you need to make cuts from wall to wall. The strips should run parallel to each other.
• Dilute the soap solution at the rate of 100 ml of dishwashing detergent per liter of warm water.

• Start wetting the linoleum along the cut strips, gradually peeling it off. First, the top layer will come off, then you need to separate the felt backing. It may require more abundant wetting.
• Separate the linoleum in strips, gradually moving from the far corner to the door. It should be noted that the solution will not only facilitate the peeling procedure, but also prevent dust from entering the air.
• After the main part of the linoleum is dismantled, proceed to peel off the felt residues. To do this, moisten them well with a solution of dishwashing detergent and let dry completely. Scrape off the dried felt with a spatula. Vacuum the cloth and wipe with a damp cloth. Thus, the old canvas will be completely dismantled.

Removed linoleum is best placed in garbage bags directly in the room in which it was dismantled. This will prevent the spread of dust and dirt throughout the apartment, as well as facilitate the task of collecting garbage.

Please note that it is best to work with gloves and a respirator. This is especially true for the dismantling of a truly old coating, which is more than 15 years old.

Such preventive measures will prepare you for the fact that under any of the canvases there will be mold. So, you won't have to touch it with your bare hands, and you won't breathe in spores.

Please note that while vacuuming, you will most likely need to change the dust bags more than once. The best option is to use disposable ones, since dust particles can settle in a fabric bag, thereby ruining it. Paper bags are much better.

Also, it is best to choose a metal one as a nozzle, it will polish the floor at the same time as collecting dust.

What can be properly glued?

To glue a new linoleum coating on top of the old one, you will need to use special tools that are suitable for this purpose. The fact is that ordinary glue will not work here, because the surface of linoleum is quite smooth, and adhesion will be minimal. Special absorbent compositions should be chosen that allow working with non-absorbent surfaces.

You can glue a new layer of linoleum on the old one with double-sided tape, however, this method is the exception rather than the rule. Please note that the entire canvas cannot be glued to the adhesive tape. They can only fix loose corners, small voids, etc. If possible, try to coat the substrate well with glue to avoid the formation of such gaps. Thus, tape is used only in extreme situations.

As an alternative to a special mortar that works with non-absorbent surfaces, it is recommended to use a rubber- or synthetic-based mastic. It, although it has slightly worse characteristics, can also provide decent adhesion of two linoleum layers, thereby making the installation of one sheet on top of another more accessible. You can buy mastic in any major building supply store, unlike special adhesives that can not even be found in every major city.

Please note that any of the adhesives require a long time to dry.

The difference is that the adhesive for non-absorbent surfaces "seizes" faster than the mastic. For optimal gluing of linoleum with mastic, you need to place the canvas under a press for 24-48 hours until completely dry, so that no waves form in the future where the canvas could move away from the base.

Hot and cold welding methods are used for gluing joints. If the first option is carried out mainly by professionals, as it requires special equipment and skills, then the second is quite possible at home. Welding is sold in hardware stores in tubes. For the home, welding compositions of types A and C are optimal.

Nuances when laying

During the installation of a new linoleum sheet on top of the old one, it is worth taking into account several important nuances:

• Speaking of pruning, you should pay attention to the following point, the seams should be perfectly even and fit as tightly as possible to each other. No matter how good welding is used, even it cannot completely smooth out crooked seams.
• Type A welding is suitable for small gaps in the seams, which are less than 1 mm, while cold welding type C is more suitable for large seams (up to 4 mm).
• For installation over existing linoleum, a solid canvas is more suitable, however, this issue is not fundamental. It is much more important that the source itself consists of one single layer and does not have seams and joints over the entire laying area.

• For flooring over existing linoleum, it is better to choose the most rigid samples. This is due to the fact that the final result is very soft, easily prone to bursting. Rigid linoleum is more wear-resistant; dents from cabinet furniture or other heavy pieces of furniture do not appear on it longer.
• About the existing small waves, you should not immediately abandon the installation of the canvas in this way. Sometimes, to eliminate such irregularities, it is enough to iron the linoleum through a soft cloth at the minimum degree of heating of the iron, and the waves will disappear as if by magic.

Carefully read the label of the purchased linoleum. As mentioned above, some samples are simply not suitable for installation on top of the old flooring, and it will definitely have to be completely cleaned to a drip base.

Examples and variants

Below is a photo gallery of images with the interiors of rooms in which linoleum was laid without dismantling the old panel.

In public institutions, this method of laying is often used, when the new linoleum is simply applied to the old one. This mainly concerns schools, hospitals and other budgetary institutions. This is done in order to save money, but, unfortunately, the result obtained is not always pleasing with a long presentable appearance.

Linoleum is a practical and externally attractive flooring that is found in houses, apartments, cottages, offices, shopping centers, public institutions ... Almost everywhere. How to lay linoleum, how to do it right - read on.

On what basis

Even when choosing a floor covering, the question arises of what to lay linoleum on. Is it necessary to prepare the base and if so, how seriously. The answer is simple: linoleum can be laid on any base. The main thing is that it be even, strong and clean. Preparation takes place and can be easy and quick if the ground is even. In this case, the floor is simply cleaned and dried. If the floor is with potholes, large irregularities, preparation takes longer. For correction, a screed or self-leveling mixtures can be used, a dry screed with sheet building material (plywood, OSB, MDF boards) is also used. It all depends on the type of foundation.

Concrete and wood floor

You can easily lay linoleum on a concrete floor. In general, there may be drops on the surface, the main thing is that they are not local - small and deep pits and tubercles are excluded. Changes can be, but smooth. If there are significant irregularities, before laying linoleum, it is better to fill in the leveling screed.

Lay this finish on a flat wooden floor. Many people think that under it the wood will rot. If the wood is dry, without signs of infection with fungi and mold, then nothing will happen to it. With proper installation, an airtight layer is obtained, so that moisture does not penetrate inside. If there are seams, they are welded, so that moisture penetration into them is unlikely. To prevent water from getting under, choose wide models and press them well to the floor. A more reliable way is to lay a self-adhesive sealing tape under the linoleum around the perimeter.

If the boardwalk itself is made correctly, with normal ventilation, then there is nothing for it to rot. If you are very worried, before laying linoleum, treat the floor with antiseptics.

If there are noticeable gaps in the plank floor, they will be visible on the floor after a while. If they are small, they can be puttied, using grinding to level the surface. Sometimes the floorboards buckle, rising slightly at the edges. Sanding such a floor will not work - a lot of nails. In this case, or if the gaps are too large, it is recommended to put sheet material on top of the boards - plywood, OSB, MDF. They are good because they do not have a very large thermal expansion, and the OSB does not yet absorb moisture (you can take moisture-resistant plywood), and this is important in wet rooms (in the kitchen, for example).

And fiberboard as a base for linoleum is not a very good option - with increasing humidity, they swell, fiberboard goes in waves. After drying, the original form is not restored, so that the linoleum laid on top is hunched and wrinkled.

Before laying linoleum, you need to lay or. This is necessary if the plank floor "plays", the boards sag. If you lay the coating immediately on the boards, it will crack in the places of deflection, and quite soon. And this means - the replacement of the flooring, and there may be problems with the boards - moisture can seep into the cracks.

That's what "with a run-up of seams" means

When laying any sheet material for leveling the floor under linoleum, it is laid with a run-out of seams - so that they do not match (like brickwork). Small seams are left between the sheets, which are then filled with elastic (non-hardening) mastic.

Is it possible to put new linoleum on the old coating

We must say right away that it is advisable to remove the old coating before laying linoleum. But this can be problematic and then flooring is allowed on top of an existing one. True, only if the old floor is even or irregularities can be repaired. New linoleum is placed on the old one, on tiles, on parquet. If there are defects in the base - chips, dents, protrusions - they are eliminated, sealed with putty, cut off, the seams between the tiles are rubbed so that the surface is even.

Lay linoleum on parquet, tile or other linoleum. But only under one condition - the base must be even

With old linoleum, as with a substrate, there are usually no problems. If there are bumps, they are pierced, filled with glue, the cracks are smeared with a repair compound - cold welding for type “C” linoleum or sealant. When laying new linoleum on the old one, there may be another problem - it will turn out too soft and significant depressions can form under the legs of the furniture.

On parquet, as well as on a plank floor, it is advisable to lay a substrate of sheet material - the planks can also “walk”, tearing the coating.

Glue or not

Before laying linoleum, you need to decide whether you will glue it or not. There is an opinion that it is not necessary to glue it in houses and apartments. It is pressed against skirting boards, furniture, large appliances, etc. All this "holds" him in place. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It usually works on hard semi-commercial and commercial types of coating, and does not work on softer household ones.

It's a matter of thermal expansion. In summer, when it's hot, linoleum expands "creeping out" from under furniture and appliances. In autumn, it shrinks to its previous size, but does not return under furniture. Waves and bumps form. Therefore, the majority agrees that it is necessary to fix it.

If you don't glue it, it might look like this

Just keep in mind that linoleum either does not need to be glued at all, or glued completely. Glue in some places - almost guaranteed to get humps and swellings after a while.

What to glue

Before laying linoleum, you need to figure out how to glue it. If the room is small, household linoleum is laid in one piece on a smooth base (sheet material, old linoleum, etc.), you can fix it with double-sided tape. It is fixed securely, but due to thermal expansion, humps can form between the adhesive tapes. Therefore, if you glue linoleum, then glue it.

There are two types of adhesives:

The first option is more familiar to us, but when changing the coating, we have to suffer for a long time, tearing off the coating and glue residue from the base. The fixation holds “on shift” no less reliably, but allows you to calmly re-lay it several times (from 5 to 8, depending on the composition).

Fixations

Fixings are used for laying residential and semi-commercial linoleum. If we talk about the price per liter, then fixing is much more expensive. But her consumption is much less (100-180 g / square), so gluing one square meter will be cheaper. From all points of view, this is the best option. Here are a few normal fixers you can work with:

There are other manufacturers, new products appear every day. But, before buying, carefully read the instructions. See what can be used on your base, with your type of coverage.

Adhesive for linoleum

Definitely do not use glue with a solvent (neoprene). Technologies have changed so that such glue gives a color change (red spots appear). Only marmoleum (material based on natural ingredients) can be glued with this glue.

If you decide to use glue, here are brands that give good results:

If you need to save money, household linoleum “with pile”, on a jute or foam base, can be glued to PVA or Bustilat M. If it is placed on concrete, screed or other similar coating, first the glue is diluted with water (1 to 1), the surface is primed with this composition (possibly twice). After that, PVA or Bustilat is applied and the coating is rolled “wet”.

How to glue the joints of linoleum

To connect the joints of linoleum there is a special glue. It is called "cold welding for linoleum". These are small tubes with a sharp nose, which the composition is filled directly into the joint. It does not so much glue as it dissolves adjacent areas of the coating, creating an airtight seam.

There are two types of cold welding for linoleum:

When laying linoleum, of course, type A is used. Pay attention to the instructions for use. There are different types, they require different drying times.

If you haven’t worked with cold welding for linoleum joints before, practice on scraps beforehand. When you work out the technology, and understand what and how to do, you can start gluing joints indoors.

Another point: the glue for connecting the joints of linoleum emits harmful substances until it polymerizes. Therefore, windows and doors are opened in the room, providing ventilation. It is better to work with gloves, and a respirator will not hurt.

How to lay linoleum with your own hands

In order for self-laid linoleum to please the eye, not swell and wrinkle, it is necessary to complete several mandatory points. The first is related to the preparation of the foundation. You already know that it should; but be even. In addition, it must be dry and clean. No dust, no greasy or other stains. We collect everything with a vacuum cleaner, remove stains with a suitable agent, dry everything thoroughly. We do all this carefully: dust impairs adhesion to the base, debris particles will eventually come through the coating.

The second prerequisite: before laying linoleum, it must be “aged” for some time in a straightened state. Preferably on site. It is rolled out, left for at least 2 days, but better - for 5-7 days. So he straightens out, takes "working" dimensions. After that, you can start cutting.

How to crop

Let's start with how to cut linoleum. There are two options - a knife and scissors. Both of them can work normally, they just have to be sharp.

It is more convenient for someone to use a clerical knife, but a shoemaker's or a sharply sharpened kitchen knife is also suitable, although there are special ones. They have a retractable blade, like utility knives, but the handle is curved and the blade hardly bends.

On a clerical knife, the protrusions that hold the blade must be iron. In this case, the blade is more elastic and there is less chance that the cut will go to the side. That's precisely because the blade can "lead" some craftsmen prefer powerful scissors. To make it easier to cut, they make an incision, and then, without making cutting movements, they simply rip the coating along the intended line.

Now about where to cut. Roll out the linoleum so that it goes a little on the walls. If there are several canvases, an overlap of at least 5 cm is made at the junction. If there is a pattern, lay out the canvases in such a way as to achieve a match. Then the junction will not be noticeable.

Linoleum is cut in the corner, the joint remains overlapped and cut off after gluing the main part. The canvas is pressed to the floor, cut off with a knife or scissors. Please note that if work is carried out in a cool room, in summer the coating from high temperatures will increase in size. If you cut the canvas close to the wall, in the summer a roller forms near the baseboards. Then, at lower temperatures, it can stretch, but in the summer it spoils the look. Therefore, when cutting, step back from the wall about 1 cm.

Glue to the base

If you decide to lay linoleum without gluing, it is usually fixed along the baseboards with double-sided tape. The same material is glued in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe doors. In this case, turn off the edges, stick adhesive tape on the base. We return the edges to their place, carefully level the coating. After making sure that it lies evenly, without distortions and waves, remove the protective tape from the adhesive tape and glue the coating.

If you work with glue, you act a little differently. We twist the coating to half the length. The composition is applied to the floor (strictly according to the instructions). If there is a joint, a strip about 35 cm wide without glue is left on both sides of it. After waiting for the time set according to the instructions, the linoleum is rolled out again, pressed well.

According to the technology, a pressure roller is required - a heavy cylinder (about 50 kg in weight), movably fixed on the handle, which squeezes out air and presses the coating to the base, ensuring good bonding. If there is no roller, they take a plastic trowel, which is used when and everything is pressed well with it. You can use a board wrapped in felt or felt, or something similar.

Then glue the other side. If the canvas was laid in one piece, we can assume that the laying of linoleum is over. It remains to fix the plinth. If there are joints, we continue.

Seam processing

If there are two or more canvases, the seams will need to be processed. There is a simple way - take a T-shaped metal bar and fix it at the junction (attached to self-tapping screws or dowels, depending on the type of base). The method is not very aesthetic, but reliable. This is exactly what they do if two pieces of linoleum with different colors are joined under the door.

A more aesthetic way is to use "cold welding for linoleum" glue. First you need to cut off the excess material at the junction. We take a metal ruler (a level or a rule will do), apply it at the junction, cut both sheets with a knife along it, remove the extra strips. It is very important to cut through both canvases at once. In this case, if the pattern is chosen correctly, the connection is imperceptible, since the two canvases match perfectly. If the base under the linoleum is hard, you can put something soft under the joint - a piece of felt, linoleum, etc. Then it will be easier to cut both canvases at a time.

We turn away the non-glued parts of the coating along the seam, apply glue, wait, if necessary, for time according to the instructions, glue the coating in place, roll it with a roller. We wait for the time required for the glue to dry (according to the instructions).

Next, we take cold welding for linoleum joints and wide masking tape. We glue the junction with this adhesive tape, then, with a clerical knife, cut it along the junction. This is necessary to protect the coating from accidental ingress of the composition. It is reactive and will melt the coating, leaving an unsightly stain. The next steps are:

If everything is done correctly, the joint is almost invisible. While it is not necessary to test it - several hours are required for the final polymerization. But that's all. Linoleum is laid and you know how to lay it with your own hands.

In floor cladding, the material of the floor covering is of great importance. Among the mass of varieties, such as laminate, parquet, floorboard and ceramic tiles, linoleum occupies a special place. It is an alternative to all types of coatings, stands out against their background, has a number of advantages and differences.

Laying linoleum is a separate topic, the knowledge of which will allow you to finish the flooring quickly and without visible defects.

Material Importance

Laying linoleum depends on the type of material. If you approach the choice based solely on external data, during the operation of the floor covering it may turn out that it is not intended for this type of room and does not correspond to the traffic of a particular area. The raw materials have obvious differences due to the thickness, protective layer, substrate material, external characteristics. It is different in terms of service life, degree of practicality, resistance to moisture and frequent cleaning.

In addition, the type of material is also different: the premium texture is subject to class, shade and a certain pattern.

Advantages and disadvantages

The choice of flooring is based on the study of the characteristics of the material, which are made up of strengths and weaknesses. This allows you to understand the degree of relevance of laying linoleum in a given room and determine its service life.

Among the positive characteristics of linoleum, the following can be noted.

• Easy installation and versatility of use in different types of rooms (can be laid in the living room, kitchen, children's room, office, hallway, home library, toilet, bathroom, corridor);
• Width variability, thanks to which it is possible to simplify floor cladding and perform seamless technology by laying the canvas in a single sheet;
• A huge selection of colors for status materials, so that the look of the room at the end of the repair will be special, hinting at the well-being and delicate taste of the owners of the house;
• Antistatic structure of the material and fire resistance, due to which it does not attract dust and is resistant to combustion;

• Long service life with the proper level of protective layer (enough for 10-15 years or more);
• Resistance to moisture, wear, pressing under heavy furniture;
• Good soundproofing properties, which reduces the degree of noise of annoying extraneous sounds;
• Compatibility with the "warm floor" system and uniform distribution of warm air throughout the room, so that you can step on the floor with bare feet;
• A different price range, which allows you to put on the floor covering, taking into account your own preferences and the budget planned for the purchase.

A unique property of linoleum is its compatibility with different flooring finishes: it can be combined with ceramic tiles, parquet and parquet tiles, supplemented with laminate, framed with porcelain stoneware. This way of installing the floor gives a lot of opportunities for design and allows you to beat the lack of space, zone the room, giving it an unobtrusive organization.

The combination provides for the use of materials of up to three varieties of different colors and textures, which is convenient, allows you to hide laying defects by means of thresholds and a decorative plinth.

Minuses

Laying linoleum is a rational investment. However, with a lot of advantages, the material has several negative nuances.

• The cost per square meter of material increases with the thickness of the protective layer;
• Among the assortment presented for sale, not all raw materials are natural: synthetics suit far from all buyers;
• The greater the weight, the more difficult the transportation of the material and the greater the possibility of violating the integrity of the coating during inaccurate delivery;
• Depending on the quality and class, linoleum can dry out with constant temperature changes, which leads to a loss of elasticity of the material;
• Laying should be carried out as accurately as possible: non-compliance with the technology can cause waves to form on the floor surface.

Not every type of linoleum is easy to work with: if you leave air under it, the coating may swell. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is greater than the maximum allowable width of the web, joints cannot be avoided.

Joints are a sore spot for laying. They are weak, exposed to moisture, therefore, to extend the service life, you need to take care of the flooring as carefully as possible: you can not fill it with water, it is important to immediately remove dirt from the surface before they become part of the pattern.

Types of linoleum

So that negative moments-surprises are not revealed in the work, and the flooring is the best, it is important to know the types of linoleum, which are determined by its structure. Linoleum is a polymer-based finishing material, which often consists of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), has a dense structure and a porous base. It can be homogeneous, consisting of a single layer, or heterogeneous, multi-layered.

The first type combines all the layers into one, so it is dyed through, erased rather slowly. The second variety allows you to clearly see the different layers by looking at the cut of linoleum from the side.

Each type is unique in its own way, allowing you to choose a worthy material option for flooring. The only thing that distinguishes them is the protective layer, which is larger in heterogeneous varieties.

In addition to PVC linoleum, companies offer other types of flooring for sale, among which the following are especially in demand.

• Natural made from oxidized linseed oil, hardwood resins, wood flour, limestone, jute and color pigments of natural origin (plain linoleum with a service life of up to 40 years, excellent bactericidal properties and practical qualities);
• Alkyd, which is distinguished by a woven base, the presence of alkyd resins and various pigments in the composition (it has a high level of sound and heat insulation compared to polyvinyl chloride linoleum, however, it is fragile and prone to cracking);
• Rubber, which is a product of processing waste rubber with the addition of a top layer of new rubber (a moisture-resistant material with high elasticity).

According to the type of wear resistance and purpose, linoleum is divided into three varieties.

• Domestic;
• semi-commercial;
• Commercial.

What is the difference?

Household flooring- a cheap class of material that is erased faster than its counterparts, looks simpler, has a smooth surface, and has no texture. Its colors are more often stylistic, in the form of ornaments, they do not differ in premium and relief.

The material is suitable for areas with low traffic, over time, erasing in the most working areas of the canvas.

semi-commerce better than household analogue, stronger, more resistant to abrasion. It looks more expensive, has more solid colors for parquet, laminate, marble and tiles. The coating is resistant to high weight loads, designed for flooring in residential buildings, studios, salons, shops.

The material can have a smooth, embossed surface, is often anti-slip, and is designed for areas with medium to high traffic.

commercial linoleum- a premium grade of flooring of this material. Its front side practically does not differ from its semi-commercial counterpart. It is quite solid, can have anti-slip, antibacterial impregnation, often contains natural ingredients, which increases its cost.

This linoleum differs in price and weight, which depends on the protective film.

The range of flooring can be complemented by different effects. In addition to slip protection and fire resistance, the canvases are treated with antistatic impregnation and are made with a 3D effect. The texture can be rough, reminiscent of the structure of wood planks.

According to the type of base, linoleum comes with a foam or felt base. This factor determines the need for a substrate. If the linoleum has insulation, the substrate is not needed: the felt will perform the function of sound and heat insulation, and at the same time hide the unevenness of the floor.

Protection

Protection is the main difference between linoleums of different classes. If the sellers in the store answer at length enough what the difference is, in reality everything is simple: household, semi-commercial and commercial linoleum have different thicknesses of the protective film located on top of the canvas (on the front side). It is she who saves the surface from losing its attractive appearance and determines the different level of weight load on the surface of the canvas. To understand the difference, you should look at the linoleum from the side.

• In the household class, the film is almost invisible and is 0.1-0.2 mm;
• Semi-commerce has better protection: 0.3-0.4 mm;
• Commerce is more reliable: its protective layer is from 0.6 mm to 1 mm.

To choose correctly, you can focus on weight: if you take canvases of the same width, the weight of a household canvas will be the lightest, while commercial linoleum may be unbearable. Moreover, the nuance is interesting: the thicker the protective layer, the thinner the foamed base of linoleum. Sometimes, of course, there are exceptions, but more often the thickness of the commerce is minimal and reaches no more than 3 mm.

You can lay such linoleum only on a flat, almost perfect surface.

To choose the best type of material that is optimally convenient for installation, you should look at semi-commercial: its characteristics are enough for the floor to be perfectly flat and the surface not to be erased even in areas with high traffic. Commercial linoleum was originally created for industrial premises. However, its high resistance to stress has been noted by many buyers, so today commerce is often the decoration of the floor of apartments and country houses. Many users like it much more than laminate, which swells in case of high humidity.

If you want to purchase a commercial grade flooring, it is better to pay attention to the option with a protection of 0.6-0.8 mm and the maximum possible thickness. So the weight load will be maximum, and floor irregularities will not stand out.

Linoleum under tiles

Tiled linoleum is an analogue of a rolled variety and a kind of alternative to ceramic tiles. In structure, it is no different from linoleum in its usual form. Here is the same classification, the presence of household, semi-commercial and commercial categories, the similarity of the composition of the layers and the same level of protective film thickness.

The difference lies in the appearance: linoleum tiles are fragments of the same size and shade, which are laid like ceramic flooring.

The raw materials are so similar to tiles that it can be difficult to distinguish them at first glance.

The rest is unchanged: the characteristics are similar to the roll counterpart, the service life depends on the quality of installation, the durability of the coating is determined by the intensity of use of the working surface, a flat surface depends on the calibration, the seams are made at will. This type of laying allows the combination of material of different textures: tiled linoleum can be combined with an analogue of a different shade and color, complemented by tiles and, less often, laminate.

Parquet is inappropriate here: an excessive amount of small details can violate the nobility of the flooring, thereby adding a sense of disorder to the room.

How to calculate the required amount of material?

Today, for the convenience and simplification of construction work, there are special calculator programs. They help to calculate the correct amount of raw materials, saving buyers from unnecessary expenses. However, this invention is not always necessary, because in any case it will be necessary to measure the room. In order not to be mistaken, it is important to take into account the maximum distance in length and width, checking it at several points on each of the walls.

If there is an assistant who can hold the tape measure, it is even more convenient: this way the measurement accuracy will be greater, because the edge of the metal tape will not slide and move.

All data should immediately be written down on paper, depicting a schematic drawing of the room in which the installation is carried out. This is important in order to take into account the direction of the pattern and the addition of an allowance for a threshold, another ledge (for example, for a radiator, a niche) or docking with the flooring of an adjacent room.

You need to focus on the largest indicators (this also applies to asymmetric types of premises). To the measurements obtained, add 7 cm in length and width. This eliminates the risk of shortage of material. If the canvas is not solid, they are repelled from the length, taking into account the allowance of 7 cm, they are guided by two lengths, while not forgetting to give an allowance for joining.

Foundation preparation

Floor preparation is an important condition for installation. The final aesthetic perception depends on the quality of this stage. It is not enough to buy a beautiful coating - it must be properly and accurately laid.

The process includes several working moments.

• Preparation of the premises (completely free the room from furniture);
• Dismantling the floor plinth and door frames (if any);
• Assessment of the condition of the floor, its alignment in height, getting rid of cracks, pits, bumps.

The type of installation matters. For example, if the linoleum will be located on a concrete base, the surface must be perfectly flat.

If it is planned to lay it on fiberboard, the floor can be trimmed with a mixture of cement and sand in the right proportions, masking the cracks pointwise. If the quality of the mixture leaves much to be desired, tile adhesive of the Ceresit or Eunice brands can be used as a cement composition. Their consistency is perfectly balanced, the mixtures are stirred without lumps, they mask the surface of the floor evenly and do not crumble after drying.

It is not recommended to level the surface with gypsum-based levelers: if there is high humidity in the room, such a leveler will quickly move away from the floor in layers. It is designed for walls and does not provide for a weight load, so these experiments are devoid of common sense.

If for some reason water gets under the linoleum, this leveler will nullify the entire installation, adding the work of re-laying the coating.

After the floor is leveled, it is vacuumed, removing dust and residues of the cement composition. It is important that it is dry and clean: if there are residues of the mixture on the surface, the floor under the linoleum in these places can creak and create unsightly bumps. Then you can start styling.

Preparing for styling

The preparatory stage for laying linoleum depends on the method of laying the material. Usually, linoleum is laid without bending on the wall, although often the canvas is wrapped on the wall, giving it the appearance of a kind of narrow plinth. The second method is used to finish the flooring of a commercial type of industrial premises. This makes it easier to clean the floor without touching the wall. In this case, it is important to calculate the allowance for the linoleum plant on the wall.

When performing flooring without a bend, it is important to cut the canvas correctly. It is customized to the features of a particular room in different ways: right next to the plinth or with a small gap to the walls.

1. The first method allows you to leave the baseboard before laying, but requires the exact contour of the linoleum and its snug fit to the bottom edge. The plinth can be selected according to the color of the linoleum.
2. The second option is the best solution: often under the influence of different temperature conditions, linoleum can stretch, so it needs a little space (0.5 cm) to lie flat without forming waves against the general background.

You can lay linoleum on different floors.

• Parquet;
• Hardboard;
• Concrete floor;
• Old linoleum.

The following tools may be needed for installation.

• roller;
• metal slats;
• Ruler with a corner;
• Cutting tool (construction knife);
• Welding tool;

• Spatula (for the adhesive method);
• Primer;
• Mastic;
• Glue "cold welding" (sealant for seams).

Laying technology provides for the preparation of linoleum. Since linoleum has been on the roll for a long time, it must rest before installation. Before direct laying, it is spread on a flat surface and left for 2-3 days. During this time, the canvas takes a flat position and allows you to make a more accurate fit to the measurements of the room.

Soundproofing the floor in the apartment

To make the floor surface smoother and warmer, soundproofing is placed under the linoleum. This can be a draft floor on logs, leveling and insulating the base, or a soundproof plate, which is made when arranging a new screed. However, the simplest option for sound insulation is a linoleum underlay, which is made of different materials and often complements the preparation of the floor on a heat and sound insulating underlay.

This stage is the need for installation, however, not all types of material are suitable for work. It is worth paying attention to raw materials with an elastic structure and high bursting resistance.

These include the following.

• Membrane sound-absorbing materials;
• Single-layer texound made of aragonite and flexible polymers (sometimes on a felt basis);
• Tear-resistant fiberglass without harmful impurities;
• Isoshum (shumostop) with hydro- and heat-insulating properties;
• Isolon is a derivative of polyethylene foam;
• Cork substrate made of compressed ground cork chips;
• Jute fiber lining.

Having prepared the base and taking care of the heat of the coating and sound insulation, proceed to laying.

DIY installation process

Mounting technology depends on the type of surface. In small rooms with dimensions up to 20 sq. m. linoleum is not glued to the floor surface. Flooring without glue is the simplest and is called dry. The main condition is a dry surface. Linoleum is placed on the floor, the edges are trimmed, the edges are attached to the base (if it is fiberboard or a wooden base, they can be nailed with roofing nails at a distance of about 5 cm).

So that the edge does not collapse over time, it is fixed with aluminum strips, making holes in them the size of nail heads.

In the case of a concrete base, holes are pre-drilled for plugs, into which screws will then be screwed. However, if the house leads, over time the screws can rise up, breaking the harmony of a perfectly flat floor. In this case, it is enough just to attach the linoleum around the perimeter. The joints are glued, sometimes nailed.

The second option looks less beautiful, so if you can buy a whole sheet, you should forget about saving: a monolithic floor is more practical.

Step-by-step instructions for laying linoleum on glue involve two ways.

With separate dryer

Before laying, the back side of the material is treated with a primer. This minimizes the number of bubbles that prevent perfect operation. It is important to prime the base with an even layer without gaps and give the linoleum and the base time to dry for about a day. Each surface is dried separately without contact. Then mastic is applied on the wrong side of the linoleum over the primer.

After that, the linoleum is determined on the floor surface and the flooring is smoothed, using a special roller for optimal fit, rolling it over the surface and evenly pressing the canvas to the floor.

To properly lay the material against the wall, you need to use a spatula, pressing the linoleum around the perimeter.

When there's not enough space

If it is not possible to dry the linoleum and the floor base separately, you can lay the canvas on the floor and bend at least half a meter. The primer is carried out in parts, after which glue (mastic) is applied to the floor surface, although for reliability it is better to add an adhesive to the back of the linoleum. So that there is not much glue, it is distributed over the surface with a spatula, removing excess.

When gluing the floor covering, it is rolled with a special heavy roller or wiped with a cork board. This eliminates air bubbles and promotes an even distribution of adhesive between the floor and the back of the floor.

Seam processing

A solid sheet of material is pressed with skirting boards. However, if the coating has joints in a visible place, they are glued by "cold welding" using a special glue. The tool is designed to fill the seams, it is transparent or the color of the material. It is used with a welding machine. In addition to "welding", you can use a linoleum profile tape to join the seams. She herself compresses together the coating inserted into it from two sides.

Laying linoleum tiles

With regards to tile linoleum, its laying involves leveling the floor, otherwise the fragments will stand out from each other. After preparing the floor, it is primed, the center of the room is determined. To do this, pull the threads diagonally from the corners of the room. The first tile is placed in the center: glue is applied to its back side, while retreating from the edges of the fragment.

It is important to roll each workpiece with a roller. After gluing all the fragments, a sealant is applied to the surface of the coating.

To make the look of the flooring pleasing to the eye, look professional and solid, you can take note of a few tips from experienced craftsmen.

• When laying marble-like or plain linoleum with joints, it is preferable to lay the canvas in the direction of the light: this way the coating will look monolithic;
• To glue the joints, you can use double-sided tape;
• It is better to purchase a primer with deep penetration: this way the adhesion of the two surfaces will be maximum;
• Using oil-chalk mastic, the base can be primed with drying oil;

• If the mastic is bituminous or rubber-bitumen, instead of a primer, you can use mastic diluted with gasoline in a ratio of 1: 3;
• You can’t immediately unroll the roll and lay the material on an uneven floor: high-quality work does not tolerate haste (both the material and the floor need to be prepared);
• If the linoleum moves away from most of the base, it lacks mastic: you need to carefully remove the linoleum, clean it from the adhesive, re-priming and laying.

Experts draw attention to the fact that for some types of flooring, brands develop their own adhesives. This factor matters: if you ignore the manufacturer's recommendations, put linoleum on another glue, you can ruin the structure of the material. If this happens, carpet will help to save the case, with which you can close the floor.

Linoleum is one of the most versatile floor coverings, because it can be laid in any type of premises, for example, simple linoleum is suitable for residential premises, and commercial linoleum can be used to finish floors with high traffic, because it has increased strength.

It is also worth noting the variety of linoleum design: you can choose the color and pattern for absolutely any interior. Another important advantage over other floor coverings is the combination of price, quality and service life of linoleum. After reading this article, you can easily choose high-quality material, and also learn how to properly lay linoleum.

Training

Before proceeding with the selection and laying of linoleum, it is worth doing all the preparatory work, as well as preparing the necessary tools.

The list of necessary tools and materials looks something like this:

• Knife for cutting linoleum;
• Double-sided tape;
• Scissors for cutting adhesive tape;
• Glue;
• Roller for applying glue to the floor surface.

To properly cover the room, you need to carefully calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe floor to be covered. This can be done with an ordinary tape measure, multiplying the length by the width of the room, however, if you have a laser tape measure, it will greatly facilitate the measurement process.

Speaking about how to properly lay linoleum, it is worth noting that purchased rolls should have a larger total area than the floor, because you can make a mistake, and you also have to make allowances.

The choice of linoleum

Having decided on the size, it is worth talking about the choice of material. In the flooring store you can find a wide variety of different types of linoleum. It is worth making a choice based on future conditions of use, for example, thick, moisture-resistant linoleum with a protective coating is better suited for the kitchen.

If we talk about how to properly lay linoleum in more detail, then it is worth talking about its protection. The aforementioned protective layer prevents the formation of deep scratches on the linoleum itself, taking the “blow” on itself, it also additionally protects the linoleum from stubborn stains, moisture and solvents, which are especially dangerous for linoleum.

The protective layer is not provided on every type of linoleum, so it is better to apply it yourself, in addition, even factory protection is recommended to be periodically updated with special tools, for example, mastic or linoleum polish.

Stella linoleum in the apartment, choose linoleum with a thickness of 3 mm or more; for public areas with high loads on the flooring, a special commercial linoleum is recommended, which is more expensive, but has high strength and protection.

Draft flooring under linoleum

Modern linoleum is often made already with a special base, so it does not need a special substrate. Linoleum can be laid on concrete or wood using glue and double-sided tape. Before laying linoleum on linoleum, think carefully about your decision, because this can significantly reduce the rigidity and strength of the material.

If the linoleum you have chosen does not have a base, then it is worth laying a substrate under it. It serves for additional heat and noise insulation, and also makes linoleum more "soft". Substrates can be made from jute, linen and cork. If you are considering whether it is possible to lay linoleum on old linoleum, then do not hesitate. You can, the main thing is to follow certain instructions.

We lay linoleum with our own hands

If you do not know how to properly lay linoleum in an apartment, then you can safely follow the instructions:

1. Prepare the base. If it is plywood, then it is necessary to putty the caps of the screws and joints. On a concrete base, it is necessary to remove all sharp irregularities and vacuum thoroughly (more: "");
2. Make sure the floor is completely dry and free from grease, oil and paint;
3. If you decide to use a substrate, then proceed with its installation. Cut the rolls into the desired pieces and lay them all over the floor. Level the substrate well with a roller, otherwise the floor surface will turn out to be uneven.
4. Prepare material. It is recommended to lay linoleum from the wall, where the floor is least crowded with furniture. Next, you need to think carefully about how to cut linoleum. First of all, remember that you have to overlap the walls, so when calculating the dimensions, increase the length of the room by the necessary numbers.
5. If you do not know how to lay linoleum from several sheets, saving the drawing, then use the following advice. After fixing the first layer on the base, start laying the second piece with an overlap (about 10 cm). Adjust the second piece so that the pattern of the bottom and top layers of linoleum matches, after which, evenly cut a line between them. So you make the joint as invisible as possible, which will give integrity to the pattern of your flooring (more: "").
6. Next, we proceed to trimming the allowances. To properly cut the linoleum at the junction of the wall and floor, press it into a corner with a spatula, then cut it off with a knife. This will minimize the distance between the linoleum and the wall. It is recommended to make a small indent from the wall (2 mm), which will disappear when you level the linoleum with a roller.
7. It is recommended to take a day to shrink linoleum, but extra hours will obviously not hurt. When the required time has passed, you can proceed with the installation of the plinth.

You can see an example of a properly laid linoleum in the photo.

Fixing linoleum with glue or tape

If the area to be covered exceeds 20 square meters, then it is recommended to additionally use glue or adhesive tape for attaching linoleum.

How to spread linoleum using glue:

1. Cut out the material and spread it on the floor;
2. Fold back half of the linoleum and put it on the second part;
3. Apply glue with a roller on the floor surface and let it dry, resting for 20 minutes;
4. Spread the bent half of the linoleum and carefully level it with a roller;
5. Repeat the operation with the other half.

How to lay linoleum yourself using adhesive tape:

1. First you need to arrange a grid of tape across the entire surface of the floor. Each side of one cell should be no more than 30 cm;
2. After sticking the adhesive tape on the floor, spread the linoleum over the entire surface of the floor;
3. As in the previous method, bend the first half of the material, after which, remove the protective film from the adhesive tape and carefully glue the linoleum;
4. Repeat the sequence with the other half.

Linoleum on chipboard and plywood

You can fasten plywood sheets with self-tapping screws, which are thoroughly twisted into plywood so that the caps do not damage the linoleum. Cover the joints and caps with putty and let dry (more: ""). Sand the surface of wooden sheets, removing all irregularities, vacuum. Now proceed to fixing the linoleum, because you already know how to lay linoleum in the apartment.