Cement putty for concrete floors. Putty for concrete floors

The type of floor putty depends on the type of coating surface and desired result upon completion of work. Often the floor is puttied before laying laminate or linoleum.

Concrete floor diagram

There are three types of putty:

  1. Base, which is applied as the first layer to level out the most basic irregularities.
  2. Finishing, which is applied completely even thin layer.
  3. Universal, which is suitable instead of finishing and basic.

In order to do right choice for the floor, first of all it is necessary to determine the surface of this coating.

To putty a concrete floor, self-leveling putty is most often used, as it is very practical and convenient.

Scheme of modern finishing materials.

Its peculiarity is that it is a little thinner, due to which, under the influence of gravity, it can be more evenly distributed over the surface. Putty for concrete floors is sold in any construction stores at a price of approximately 200 rubles per package weighing 5 kg.

Putty for polystyrene foam must be applied in a special way. It is applied in 2 layers, the thickness of each of which should not be more than 2 mm. Putty for expanded polystyrene is applied no earlier than one day after the installation of expanded polystyrene is completed.

Wood putty requires a special approach. When puttying wooden coverings follow the instructions on the packaging.

Putty for leveling the floor is sold by dealer companies or in hardware stores.

Installation diagram of a thermal water floor.

Often, polyester is used for concrete floors, the features of which are elasticity, strength and good adhesion. Polyester putty has no shrinkage. However, when working with it, it is not recommended to take a large layer, since the most the best option is to apply 2 thin layers.

Polyurethane putty is popular among both beginners and professional repair specialists. It is quite easy to use and has a number of various advantages, such as resistance to water, acids, gasoline, alkalis, organic and synthetic solutions. Polyurethane is ideal for concrete, wood, metal and mineral surfaces, is most often used indoors, and is environmentally friendly to the human body.

Scheme of cork floors on a concrete base.

The main purpose is to level the surface before applying coating materials. It is better to putty any type of surface before painting or wallpapering.

Putty for concrete floors is used as universal material to level it.

The domestic market of construction and finishing materials mainly offers putty in the form of a dry mixture. In this regard, first of all you need to mix the putty, then prepare the surface. Before filling, the coating is cleaned of grease and dirt and, if necessary, treated with a primer. The instructions on the package will help you properly dilute the putty from the dry mixture. One point should be noted here: putty for a concrete floor is carried out due to gravity, so it should be slightly thinner than a regular solution for ceilings or walls (diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5).

For waterproof surfaces, the putty is diluted a little thicker (1:3). Next, you should lay the putty in a thin, even layer on the surface. The use of a thick layer is unacceptable, as this will promote the formation of cracks. After the putty has hardened, you need to remove the excess with a spatula and level it with sandpaper. Learn more about how to use putty specific type, it is best to read the instructions on the package. For example, putty for polystyrene foam requires preliminary degreasing of the surface and is laid in 2 layers.

Scheme of a standard floor screed.

The dry mixture must be diluted in the amount required, because after the stated time has elapsed (usually 4 hours), it will become unsuitable for use.

It is important to choose a putty according to the requirements for room humidity and drying time. There are types that can only be used indoors with low humidity and at a certain temperature. Before further work you need to wait until the putty on the surface is completely dry. On average, complete drying time is 24 hours.

Floor putty requires certain training and takes a lot of time, so it is often easier to turn to specialists.

Waterproofing polyurethane material

Waterproofing is characterized by increased resistance to the effects of organic and mineral environments, mechanical strength for tearing and compression.

Waterproofing putty is used both in combination with other materials and as an independent coating.

Application

Scheme of concrete hardeners.

  • This type is used for waterproofing concrete floors, for sealing cracks (including small ones) and for creating a waterproofing protective layer under a self-leveling floor system. The putty can be applied to a damp base and to fresh concrete;
  • putty is used for waterproofing water tanks and swimming pools, under cement screed and tiles, treatment facilities and sanitary facilities, as well as for external waterproofing foundations;
  • given waterproofing coating environmentally friendly and can be used in explosion and fire hazardous areas;
  • consumption depends on the thickness of the layer and is 1.5-4.0 kg/m2;
  • after completion of work, the tool is cleaned with water;
  • The composition includes a 3-component urethane compound, consisting of a semi-finished product (urethane film former with targeted additives and an aqueous dispersion), a dry mixture and a hardener.

Storage

  • the semi-finished product is stored at a temperature of at least +5°C;
  • The shelf life of hydrospar in original packaging is 12 months from the date of manufacture.

Another way

Scheme of floor insulation with polystyrene foam.

There is another option to putty a concrete floor. To begin with, it is necessary to repair potholes and cracks on its surface and prime it. You need to start by cleaning them thoroughly so that the putty adheres well. In order for it to better adhere to concrete, it is necessary to first coat the cracks with PVA glue mixed with water in a ratio of 1:5.

If the floor in the room is wavy, then after eliminating the defects, it must be filled with a leveling solution, having previously been cleaned of dirt and dust.

After the floors are puttied, you need to prepare a leveling solution. Cement mixture connect with water. Stir until it becomes liquid sour cream, then lay it on a damp floor surface in a layer of 3 mm and smooth it with a grater. After some time, the solution will completely level itself and traces of smoothing will disappear. After 2-3 hours of drying, it will be possible to walk on this floor, and after 8-9 hours it will be possible to lay porcelain tiles.

If the floor begins to become covered with moisture, it will be necessary to waterproof it. To determine moisture penetration from below (through concrete), it is recommended to place it upside down on the floor. glass jar, while sealing the joints. After 2 days you need to check it: if droplets of water appear inside the jar, this means that moisture is coming from below. If droplets of moisture have formed on the outside of the jar, then it is condensation inside the room.

In order to prevent moisture from entering through the concrete floor, it must be covered with 2-3 layers bitumen mastic. It is necessary to first remove the baseboards and treat the walls behind them with mastic.

The floor requires special strength and rigidity. A thick layer of concrete shrinks and cracks form on the surface. The covering is laid on smooth surfaces. Concrete floor putty will help make the base high-quality and durable. Depending on the conditions and coating material, various types are used.

Division of putty for concrete by types and components

On the first floor of the house that my friend was building, the floor was planned to be laid with laminate, tiles, parquet and self-leveling. In some rooms a warm floor system was installed. All these coatings required not only a strong, but also a level base.

Floor putty

Concrete was poured during the construction of the basement and the erection of walls. Thick layer hard material gave a shrinkage. There were cracks along it in places. To prepare the entire level, we need a variety of concrete floor putty. I started telling Vadik about the materials that we might need and their features. I started with the purpose of the putty:

  • starting for sealing the main defects;
  • finishing finally levels the surface and creates a film.

Now construction stores offer big choice materials based on:

Using PVA glue or acrylic varnish, you can create your own putty. This work is difficult. Time and quality were more important to us than such savings.

How to choose the optimal composition for the floor

The foundation in all rooms was the same, the floor covering and microclimate were different. Based on my stories, Vadik compiled a table to make it easier to navigate when choosing.

Type of putty Main characteristics Flaws Drying time
plaster flexible, easy to level without sanding hygroscopic, wearable, destroyed by impacts 1.5 - 2 hours
two-component epoxy fills voids and cracks, used to seal large defects and cracks, durable, wear-resistant, chemically neutral difficulty of preparation, cost, fragility 30 minutes
polymer small specific gravity, glossy surface price 40 minutes
cement resistant to moisture, temperature changes, high strength and hardness, wear-resistant shrinks, cracks, requires lining 12 hours
waterproofing water resistant, plastic wears out quickly, dear can be covered until hardened

A poured floor was planned for the kitchen. Temperature changes, humidity and large cracks spoke in favor of an epoxy two-component putty. Gypsum mixtures regulate indoor humidity. But they cannot be used in rooms with temperature changes. They are destroyed when dew forms.

So we analyzed all the rooms and decided which putty would fit where.

Waterproof materials for bathrooms and swimming pools

Wet areas require materials that will not absorb water and deteriorate. This is a putty based on cement, epoxy resin and special waterproofing.

Epoxy fills deep cracks well, voluminous voids and the screed turns out smooth with a hard film. Preparation of a two-component solution requires strict adherence to proportions. It hardens quickly, after 30 minutes you can’t fix it. It suited us under the screed floor in the kitchen.

It was planned to lay tiles on the concrete floor in the bathroom and toilets. In the hallway, a heated floor system was installed under the ceramic flooring. The cement putty met its characteristics.

Expensive waterproofing putty was used in the pool. Additional components are selected in such a way that they bind the cement, and it does not absorb water at all, being in it for years. It is important that the composition can withstand alternating moisture and dry conditions without compromising strength.

We use environmentally friendly polymer mixtures in living rooms

IN living rooms We decided to level the floor with polymer putty – acrylic. Warm plaster is more suitable because it does not deteriorate due to temperature. The laminate was chosen without a wax coating, which melts when heated.

PVA glue diluted with water was used as a primer for the concrete floor in dry rooms. We purchased acrylic varnish for wet rooms. These substances:

  • penetrate deeply into the pores of the concrete floor and close them;
  • increase adhesion to putty.

Before starting work, the floor was cleaned and vacuumed. The first layer of putty was poured a day after treatment with the primer, allowing it to dry completely. The solution was made liquid so that it flowed into all the cracks. The maximum layer thickness is 3 cm. Where more was required, repeat after 24 hours.

After complete drying, a friend primed the floor himself and applied a thin layer finishing putty same brand. Vadik already had experience working with ceilings and walls, so smoothing with a large comb spatula was not difficult.

Advice! Before pouring the floor, place timber in all openings to prevent the mixture from spreading.

Plaster breathes best of all materials

Flaw gypsum mixtures in hygroscopicity and low strength. They perform well in dry rooms, absorbing excess moisture and releasing it when the air becomes dry. The surface of the gypsum putty is smooth. Otherwise, it can be sanded with a machine. The underfloor heating system maintains a constant temperature, and the plaster feels great. Heating does not affect its quality.

The floor covering protects the putty from abrasion and impact. The plaster sets in 15 - 20 minutes, and then dries for about a day. You need to apply it quickly and give it time to settle. The screed will be smooth and without cracks.

Cement putties for industrial premises and a budget option for home

Floor putty under linoleum is necessary and important procedure. Without her finishing coat will last less and will quickly lose its appearance during operation. To carry out the work correctly, you need to adhere to a certain procedure, and also be able to choose the right material.

Features of working with linoleum

This type of finishing coating is demanding on quality rough foundation. The floor must be smooth, without humps, depressions, cracks, or sinkholes. If you lay linoleum on an unprepared base, it will soon begin to wear out and tear in places where there are obvious bulges - its service life will noticeably decrease. To avoid this, putty the floor, and then lay a special layer under the finishing coat.

Sealing of unevenness is possible only on a foundation of fairly decent quality, with a small difference in level and a small number of errors. If bumps and holes occur at every step, you will have to first fill in the self-leveling concrete screed and only after that start laying linoleum.

Types of putties

You need to select the material based on the type of rough foundation. This is usually concrete, or wood, or concrete leveled with sheets of plywood. The joints between them will also have to be puttied. In addition to specific compositions intended for a particular type of floor, there are also universal ones that can be used to work on both wood and concrete.

Wood putty

The compositions are used not only for straightening floors before laying linoleum, but also for restoring old wooden surfaces. They are also used to improve appearance floorboard. Wood putty can perfectly seal cracks, seams, fallen knots and other imperfections on a wooden surface.

Features of the composition for work inside residential premises:

  1. Elasticity. This parameter is necessary because wood can expand and contract depending on the surrounding temperature. If the putty is not elastic, it means that soon it will simply fall off.
  2. Uniformity (smallest fraction). Do not use coarse-grained compounds on wood. When sanding, scratches may appear, which will also have to be puttied.
  3. High adhesion. The composition must adhere perfectly to the wood, otherwise the putty will quickly begin to peel off and fall out.
  4. Ecological cleanliness. This parameter is important because the presence of harmful volatile substances in the composition can harm human health when dried.
  5. High antiseptic properties. For wooden floors covered with linoleum on top, it is very important that mold does not settle on them and the process of rotting does not begin in the event of accidental leakage of water through the finishing coating.
  6. Fire safety. Important, but not required parameter.

Oil-based formulations

Oil putties include drying oil, fillers, water, coloring pigments, plasticizers and other components. Such compositions are considered ideal for wood, as they have natural ingredients. The advantages of oil putties include:

  • high plasticity;
  • high adhesion to wooden surfaces;
  • moderate consumption (no more than 1 kg/m2);
  • ease of use;
  • fairly quick drying;
  • environmental safety;
  • relative cheapness.

Unlike most other putty mixtures, leveling oil compositions go on sale ready-made. They do not require pre-mixing before application to the surface to be treated.

Despite the many advantages, the material also has quite serious disadvantages. Putty can quickly “fall out” of cracks and potholes if the floor is subject to intense stress. Oil-based formulations are sensitive to excess moisture and do not adhere well to any paint except oil paint. Therefore, before working on plywood or wood floors, you will have to strip them of any finish down to the wood itself.

Quick-drying compounds

Nitro putties are made from wood dust (flour), have a wide variety of colors, and dry very quickly. Among the advantages:

  • excellent adhesion to wooden substrates;
  • ideal sealing of defects;
  • the ability to process a wooden surface (clean, polish);
  • dry within a maximum of 10 minutes;
  • Ordinary acetone or nitro solvent is suitable as a solvent.

Polymer compositions

They are made on the basis of gypsum or latex. Gypsum putty for plywood under linoleum is quite suitable for sealing joints between sheets, as well as for bringing into ideal condition wooden floors, on which a similar finishing coating will then be laid.

Latex putties are excellent, quality option. You just need to know how to work with them. After setting, it is almost impossible to do anything with the surface. Therefore, you need to immediately seal cracks and potholes perfectly evenly, without leaving any errors.

The advantages of latex over gypsum are obvious:

  • does not crumble;
  • does not crack because it is elastic;
  • It is possible to seal millimeter-sized cracks.

Among the disadvantages, we can note the price - it is hardly worth using latex putty under linoleum (although if the result is important, then it will be better) - and the inability to work at low temperatures.

Adhesive and oil-adhesive compositions

Usually they are prepared independently. It turns out to be economical and quite high quality. Recipe for wood putty (it is also suitable for sealing plywood joints):

  • 280 g linseed oil;
  • 60 g of turpentine oil, or turpentine;
  • 30 g perlite in powder form;
  • 20 g casein;
  • 20 g edible gelatin;
  • 12 g borax;
  • 18 g of ammonia (18% solution);
  • about 300 g of water.

Combine turpentine and linseed oil, add perlite powder. Mix everything, pour in water, add the remaining ingredients and place on water bath, heat to approximately +90° C. This will help achieve the most uniform consistency and obtain a thick paste. Remove it from the heat and cool. You can work with it for an hour, then its properties will deteriorate.

The recipe for pure adhesive putty is simpler:

  1. All you need is chalk and PVA glue.
  2. Take the chalk and slowly start pouring glue into it. Break up any lumps that form immediately.
  3. Add glue until the mass looks like thick sour cream or paste.
  4. Add wood flour or tiny sawdust into the finished mass. Leave them to swell and then get to work.

The quality of this putty is quite high, the price is more than affordable. Of the minuses - long time Drying time is at least 24 hours; in addition, the thickness of the layer plays an important role.

In the last recipe, you can replace PVA glue with water-soluble inexpensive varnish. Leave the mixture overnight to allow the sawdust or wood flour to swell. The resulting putty dries faster and is therefore more attractive to use.

Putties for concrete

There are 7 types of compositions: cement or gypsum based, lime, oil, varnish, adhesive, acrylic. Unlike wood, it is easier to work with concrete; the main thing is not to forget, after thorough cleaning, to impregnate it with a deep-penetrating primer with the addition of sand. This will improve the adhesion of the putty to the base and prevent it from flying out during the application of mechanical loads.

Plaster has clear advantages– it does not shrink and is inexpensive. Cement gives a decent shrinkage, but can be used in rooms of any humidity, unlike gypsum, which does not like water. Acrylic putty does not shrink, is moisture resistant, but is more expensive than gypsum.

Considered the most attractive epoxy putty for concrete. It practically does not peel off from the base, is waterproof, strengthens the edges of potholes, and fills even small cracks well.

Preparing plywood for puttying

If everything is clear with the preparation of a concrete surface: clean, fill out all the cracks and holes, then remove dust, prime, dry and you can start puttingtying, then with a wooden floor, and even more so with plywood, everything is much more complicated.

The first thing to do is to saturate the floor with drying oil. It needs to be heated to +50 - 60° C and applied with a brush (roller). Force dry the treated surface using construction hair dryer at +200° C. The treatment must be done several times, drying the layer well each time. After 3 or 4 soaks, drop water onto the surface of the plywood. If it collects in drops, the treatment can be completed, but if it is absorbed, you need to dry it a few more times. Don't forget about the edges, otherwise when moisture penetrates they will ruffle and then separate.

A similar water-repellent effect can be obtained by impregnating plywood with PVA glue.

Before laying linoleum, be sure to fill all uneven areas. And it doesn’t matter what kind of floor you have - wood or concrete. The main thing is to make it almost perfectly flat, then lay a backing and lay linoleum on top.

Wooden floors are not only beautiful and harmonize perfectly with any interior. It is also environmentally friendly, warm, reliable, which makes it the most acceptable option for residential premises. But over time the tree loses its original appearance: cracks appear, traces of mechanical influences appear, the floorboards dry out, become deformed, and gaps form between them. Experts recommend restoration wooden surfaces, using a variety of so-called building mixtures designed for leveling surfaces.

Why do you need to putty floors?

Putty for wooden floors is an excellent material that allows you to remove defects that have appeared on the floor covering and prepare the surface for further finishing or decorative finishing. But some consumers have doubts: will the putty be able to completely hide all the flaws? How long after renovation can refinished floors maintain their appearance?

The use of putty will really improve the technical and aesthetic characteristics flooring, only for this you need to choose the most suitable material. So what kind of putty is needed for a wooden floor so that it can withstand all loads and not lose its attractiveness?

There are various products on sale, which are classified according to the type of material that served as the basis for their manufacture. These are plaster, glue, oil, acrylic, varnish, and other substances and materials. Next - in more detail about the most popular putty mixtures.

Non-shrink putty

Similar material is different high quality, therefore it is indispensable for eliminating dents, chips, deep cracks and other serious defects on wood surfaces. The main advantage of the material is the preservation of the original volume after drying and excellent adhesion to wood. This means that after filling the cracks in wooden floor and the applied mass will dry completely, it will not crack or lag behind the floor covering.

What is important: special pigments can be added to the putty mixture so that the correction layer does not differ in color from the surfaces being treated. So, using dyes, you can choose colors for the following textures:

  1. Mahogany.
  2. Birch.
  3. Wenge.
  4. Nut.
  5. Oak and others.

Alkyd mixtures

Alkyd putty is used for painting, varnishing, and enamel. Can be used not only for repairs but also for any wooden surfaces. The substance is produced in special syringes, tubes or jars, since it has the consistency of a paste. It is necessary to apply the putty mixture onto the wood so that it protrudes slightly above the surface. If the chips or crevices are too large, apply the mixture several times, allowing the paste to dry completely each time. When the last layer is completely dry, it needs to be sanded so that it is even with the floor.

Acrylic putty mixture

It is used to level wooden floors when minor defects need to be repaired. Typically, such material is used when restoring floors on which they will subsequently be laid. carpet covering, laminate, linoleum.

The main advantages of acrylic-based material:

  1. Short hardening time.
  2. Harmlessness.
  3. Easy to apply.
  4. Plastic.
  5. No smell.

In addition, this mixture can be used to treat not only floors, but also chopped or log walls, since the material does not allow water to pass through, so fungus will not form on the wood.

Price acrylic mixture higher than analogues on other bases, but this is fully justified by its high performance qualities. The only thing to remember is that you need to apply the mixture in a thin layer, no thicker than 1-2 mm: this will help avoid cracking after the surface has completely dried.

Gypsum mixture

This type of material is by far the most popular - it has a plastic consistency and adheres well to the surface. Thanks to these characteristics, putty for wooden floors gypsum base can be used to create a base or finishing layer. In terms of its characteristics, gypsum-based putty is not inferior to its acrylic counterpart, but has more low cost. For those who would like to save money, an excellent option when carrying out indoor renovations is to purchase just such a mixture.

Basis of choice

Today there are a variety of wood floor putties on the market. Which mixture should I choose to ensure the desired finish?

To avoid making mistakes, it is enough to follow the basic principles of selection required material and pay attention to the following points:

  1. Plasticity of mass. The more plastic the mixture, the easier it is to apply and spread it over the surface with a regular spatula.
  2. Adhesion. The higher this figure, the better mixture adheres to the surface. This means that the putty will last a long time, and toxic fumes are unlikely to occur.
  3. No shrinkage. The less the dried putty for a wooden floor changes its size, the less it will crack, crumble, and the easier it will be to sand.
  4. Drying time. Of course, no one wants to wait a long time, but you should not purchase material that indicates a complete drying time of less than 24 hours. Sometimes the saying “go slower” turns out to be the most correct one.
  5. Price. High price is not always an indicator of quality. Often this is an overpayment for the “brand”.
  6. If you decide to buy a dry mixture, you need to pay attention to its structure. The fact is that the quality of the resulting surface depends on the size of the particles - the larger the particles, the less smooth the surface is and, accordingly, vice versa. Conclusion: it is best to choose a dry mixture with a fine texture.

with material

Puttying a wooden floor with your own hands is not a difficult task. Even a novice master can cope with it if he knows the specifics of working with the material. And these rules are as follows:

  1. It is necessary to purchase a putty mixture taking into account the fact that the work will be carried out inside the building.
  2. The material is ready for use and does not need to be further diluted.
  3. Before starting work, you need to remove dirt from the surface being treated.
  4. Remove previous paintwork if cosmetic repairs are being carried out.
  5. Clear sandpaper, then rinse and let dry.
  6. If the cracks are deep, the putty mass is applied in a maximum of three layers. The thickness of each is no more than two mm. To provide better adhesion, before applying the next layer, you must wait until the mass dries and sand the surface.

As you know, they are durable and have a long service life. However, in intensively used premises, such a coating may become cracked and crumble. To prevent this from happening, concrete floors are often additionally coated with putty. Such means make the upper layers of the material more durable and also increase the resistance of concrete to the effects of various kinds chemical substances.

Also, putties can be used, of course, to correct all kinds of floor defects. Before installing tiles or, for example, linoleum using this type of product, a basic leveling of the concrete surface is performed.

Varieties by purpose

To achieve the desired effect, of course, you need to choose the right putty for a cement floor. There are several types of such products intended for concrete. According to their purpose, putties of this type are classified into:

  • finishing;

    universal.

The first type of materials is used to create concrete floors main leveling layer. Finishing putties are applied over the base ones and make the surface as smooth as possible. Universal products of this type can be used to apply both of these types of layers.

Types by composition

Depending on the materials used for manufacturing, there are two main ones for concrete floors:

    cement;

    plaster.

The last type of product is most often used to level the floor in extremely dry, not very frequently used rooms. In most cases, concrete surfaces are puttied using cement compositions. It is these products that give surfaces additional strength.

Sometimes apartment owners can also use it for concrete floors. Such products can be used in both wet and dry areas. But putties of this variety are quite expensive. Therefore, they are usually used only for adjusting floors in small rooms.

Very often used for self-leveling floors. In this case, the best adhesion between the surface and the adjustment layer is ensured. After all, self-leveling floors are usually installed using exactly polymer compositions.

Review of manufacturers

Many companies produce such products today. At the same time, the majority of putties for concrete floors sold on the domestic market are of good quality. For example, the following brands are very popular among craftsmen in Russia:

    Ceresit. This company produces putties intended for finishing concrete floors both dry and wet. wet areas. Products of this brand are made in most cases based on cement.

    "Shitrock." Putties from this manufacturer are sold in ready-made form. That is, when using them, masters can save time on mixing.

Reviews of Ceresit putties

Consumers praise Ceresit products primarily for their ease of application and the high strength of the created layer. Ready-made compositions of this type stretch easily, and therefore, according to consumers, laying them on floors is very simple. These putties must be mixed by hand. But plasterers and painters do not find this procedure too tedious. Many consumers consider the disadvantages of Ceresit products to be mainly the rather long setting and drying time.

Consumer opinion about Shitrok products

Reviews about putties from this manufacturer on the Internet also exist, mostly only good ones. The advantages of this brand's products are primarily elasticity and ease of use. Also, these putties are praised for the fact that they are made mainly only from environmentally friendly materials. pure materials. The disadvantages of this brand of products include a fairly high degree of shrinkage and high cost.

Finishing technology

Putty for a concrete floor under linoleum or tiles is selected depending on the type of room - wet or dry - where the work is to be carried out. Actually, the technology for applying such products to surfaces looks something like this:

    floors are thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust and dried;

    cover the surface with a primer;

    Apply a thin layer of the product to the concrete using a special spatula in small areas with careful leveling;

    wait for the putty to dry and apply another finishing layer;

    After the product has dried, sanding work is performed.

If it is necessary to adjust the floor, the puttying procedure is performed slightly differently. The existing cracks in the concrete are first widened to 1.5-2 cm. Next, crumbs and dirt are carefully swept out of them. Then the cracks are moistened with water, filled with putty and the floors are leveled with a paint float, a block or simply sandpaper.

Puttying a concrete floor if there are potholes is done in approximately the same way. In this case, all the crumbled concrete is first pulled out of the latter. Next, the pothole is cleaned and moistened with water. Then such a defect is filled with putty mixture and everything is leveled. Such products can only be used to fill small potholes. If the defect has a significant area, it is better to fill it with cement mortar.

At the final stage, the repaired concrete floor is completely covered with a layer of putty. In this case, the method described above is used.

Primer

One of the disadvantages of putties of any type and brand is that they do not adhere to concrete very well. Therefore, it is imperative to prime such floors before leveling.

As a primer for putties on concrete surfaces, you can use, for example, PVA glue diluted with water. This product is simply ideal for dry rooms. In damp rooms, floors for putty can be pre-coated with acrylic varnish. Both of these substances have the following advantages:

    penetrate deeply into the pores of concrete;

    effectively increase adhesion between concrete and putty.

When using primers based on PVA or acrylic varnish, the putty concrete floor will last much longer in the future.

As you can see, the procedure for adjusting or leveling the floor with putty is not particularly difficult. But still, some rules should be followed when performing such work. Experienced craftsmen advise:

    carry out puttying only when there is sufficient high temperatures, otherwise the leveling layer will subsequently quickly crack;

    use putty to fill potholes with a depth of no more than 1 cm;

    fill deep cracks and potholes only with basic putty, and eliminate minor defects using finely dispersed putty.

After the putty layer has dried, experts advise mandatory sand the concrete surface. Craftsmen recommend diluting the dry composition for leveling the floor to a thinner consistency than for walls. This will allow the product to be applied to the surface in a much more even layer and will make the technician’s work easier.

Is it possible to make putty for a concrete floor with your own hands?

In our time, purchasing a composition suitable for leveling and adjusting cement surfaces in a store is not particularly difficult. But if you want to save money House master can make such putty for a concrete floor independently.

For example, products mixed from the following components are quite reliable and easy to use:

    washed and sifted river or quarry sand in the amount of 1 bucket 10 l;

    the same amount of Portland cement M400;

    PVA dispersions - 2 l;

    water - 5 l.

When preparing such putty for a concrete floor, sand and cement must be mixed thoroughly. Then PVA should be added to the composition and the construction mixer should be used again. When preparing this putty, water is added to the mixture in small portions. The end result should be a solution with the consistency of country sour cream.

Home craftsmen consider the advantages of putty made according to this recipe, first of all, to be cheap. Also, compositions of this type, judging by reviews, are characterized by a high degree of adhesion.

According to the experts, working with homemade putty is not as convenient as using store-bought putty. But still, the procedure for applying such a product to concrete floors is not particularly complicated. The main thing when preparing a putty composition with your own hands is to maintain the proportions of the components used and try to make the mixture as homogeneous as possible.

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