Do-it-yourself sealing of the front door. Seal for wooden doors: sometimes a small detail can solve big problems

Seals are essential part entrance iron door in every house. If suddenly you notice that cold air has begun to blow in the corridor, and you can perfectly hear what the neighbors are doing outside the door, in the entrance, then it's time to think about seals.

What is a sealant?

Seals are a material that serves to front door, a kind of "protection". In addition, the material has excellent sound insulation and thermal insulation, the effect of which is enhanced by a special porous filler.

In most cases seals metal doors They come with an adhesive base, so sticking them is not difficult. Of the minuses, the same reason can be distinguished: how quickly they stick, they can also come off quickly.

However, not all seals are identical in appearance and installation method. There are also interior door seals, which have less noticeable sound and heat insulation qualities, as well as seals for plastic doors.

In this article, we are talking about seals for entrance doors, and they, in turn, are divided into several types and subspecies, depending on the type of material, installation method or type of product.

What are the types of sealant?

So, seals, of course, do not have one type and method of installation. The sealant is selected taking into account the features and requirements of the door.

For example, according to the method of installation, the sealant is divided into a product into glue base(self-adhesive) and on a product that must be installed using screws or self-tapping screws. It is noteworthy that the first type is installed specifically on metal entrance doors, and the second - on wooden entrance doors.

Seals also vary in material. For example, the highest quality seal is made of rubber. It does not let in cold air from the street, and serves its owners for a long time and reliably. Usually rubber seals are self-adhesive and are installed on metal entrance doors. Silicone seals are less resistant to weather conditions, so they are used mainly in the installation of interior doors, where it serves in an excellent way. And finally, the most a budget option- foam seal. The negative properties of foam rubber, which affect the quality of the product, are a complete inability to withstand temperature extremes, which leads to compression and, subsequently, to crumbling of the foam rubber filler, on average, a year after the start of operation.

There are also sealants for sliding wardrobe doors - brush or fleecy tapes. They do not have the qualities of heat and sound insulation, as they are unnecessary. The "purpose" of these seals is to keep dust and dirt out of the cabinets.

When installing seals in the slots of the entrance doors, it is worth remembering that the products are divided according to peculiar “profiles”:

1. C-profile - installed in a slot with a gap of no more than 3 mm.

2. Profile type E (K) - helps to seal gaps of the same size, however, is a higher quality product due to the double groove, which best protects against drafts and excessive noise.

3. P - profile - seals gaps up to 5 mm. It got its name because of the peculiarities of the cross section, which in the section resembles the letter "P".

4. V - profile - also "closes" gaps up to 5 mm.

5. D - profile - helps seal up to 7 mm gaps. The name was given due to the fact that in the shape of the cross section it has a pronounced letter "D".

6. O - profile - insulates gaps larger than 7 mm. Due to its cavity, the sealant of this profile can be installed in smaller slots.

Let's dwell on the profiles of type D and E, how to install them?

How to seal iron doors yourself with self-adhesive D and E profiles

As you know, many modern metal doors already come with a seal installed taking into account the design features. When choosing a door, we advise you to focus on such models. But it is not always possible to choose something suitable, and if you bought a door without a seal, it does not matter. Installation of these self-adhesive seals will not be difficult even for novice “household craftsmen”. However, you need to remember some of the subtleties of these seals before installation.

First, you need to know what gap the door has. If this gap is not very large - from 1 to 3 mm - it will be necessary to get by with an E-seal, but if this gap is large - about 7 mm - then you cannot do without a D-seal.

However, these seals are very easy to install as they are self-adhesive.

Approximate algorithm of actions self-assembly sealant of any of these profiles looks like this:

1. First you need to stick plasticine desired thickness between door and frame. Then very strongly close the door and immediately open it. It turns out a kind of "cast" of the required thickness. We directly glue the seal itself, taking into account the size and thickness of the gap. Carefully remove the sticker and, in the course of work, glue the seal along the entire length of the frame. At the bottom of the door, cut off the remnants of the seal with a knife. Installation can be considered completed. It happens that after a while the seal comes off. You can stick it on a strong glue, such as "Moment".

How to seal iron doors yourself with a magnetic seal and an elastic band?

It should start with the fact that it is impossible to install a magnetic seal on your own. This will require a master. So what is the essence of magnetic seals?

This type of seals is mainly installed on the doors of refrigerators. Such a seal works by attracting magnets with the help of attraction poles. If on refrigerators, for the most part, magnetic seals with two circuits are installed, then on an iron door - with three, for best work designs. Magnetic seals are already included with the door, and are not really that great. The fact is that in the case of a strong attraction of the magnet, difficulties may arise with the operation of the door. A child, and sometimes not even every adult will be able to cope with such a design, and if the attraction of the magnets is weak, then why install such a seal at all? After all, if you buy it separately, it will come out for a considerable amount!

However, there is also a major plus in this design: the door will no longer slam when opened, because the attraction of the “poles” is in effect, so the neighbors will not hear how you enter or leave the apartment. Perhaps, for the sake of this, it is worth buying such a seal.

If you do not want problems with the installation of the seal, perhaps you can advise you to purchase special sealing gum. Moreover, this method is the easiest. Such a thing is glued into a special recess in door frame. The mechanism for installing rubber bands is as follows:

1. First you need to measure the box by area. That is, how many meters of sealing gum are needed for this door.

2. Measure the width of the recess in the door frame.

3. To measure the thickness of the seal, you need to take plasticine, wrap it in cellophane and clamp it in the door. The thickness obtained in this case will be, in fact, the thickness of the future sealant.

4. Go to the store and buy the right one sealing gum. There can be no difficulties with the process itself, since this gum is self-adhesive.

Video tutorials on installing the seal

If you still consider yourself insufficiently competent in installing door seals, you can watch numerous video tutorials.

Here, for example, shows how to insulate the front door:

And here, how to insulate a door or window with a sealing gum:

Installation of rubber seals on entrance metal doors: what is a seal, what are the types, how to seal yourself iron doors self-adhesive D and E profile, magnetic seal and rubber band

If you have begun to notice that a draft has appeared in your apartment, or bad smell, this is a signal that a door seal is required. Such a problem definitely does not bypass those people in whose apartment a metal door is installed. For this reason, we suggest that you consider how you can fix or prevent the problem by sealing the door yourself.

Sealant selection and classification

Often, metal doors do not cope with their main role, namely the preservation of heat in the house. Although these doors are insulated, the result often leaves much to be desired. You can choose a special sealant that can solve the problem of drafts and unpleasant odors coming from the entrance. Exist a large number of seals, differing in type and method of application. For example, some are glued around the entire perimeter of the door. If the door has a double porch, then the seal is glued to each of them. At the same time, it is recommended to choose a heater in each individual case individually. So, for example, if you buy a very thick sealant, then it can cause obvious problems. Conversely, strongly thin material will not give the desired result.

Seals for metal doors are classified according to several technical characteristics.

1. Material type. It can be foam rubber, plastic, polyethylene foam, rubber, silicone.
2. Design. The seal can be equipped with a clamping metal rail or made from one material.
3. Mounting method and system. Seals are either self-adhesive or self-tapping. As for the latter, special strips can only be installed on wooden doors.

If you have a desire, then the seal can be made independently. To do this, you can use foam rubber, after wrapping it in artificial leather or leatherette.

For metal doors, seals are sold in rolls. One roll can be up to six meters. If the door is standard, then one roll will be enough for sealing. Remember that for metal doors it is best to buy a self-adhesive seal.

Sealant for metal doors

The choice of sealant will directly depend on the size of the gap that needs to be eliminated. For example, if the gap at closed door is from one to four millimeters, then you can purchase a rectangular seal, for example, from polyethylene foam, PVC, foam rubber. But in most cases, rubber seals are used for metal doors. They may have different forms, the cross section of which resembles the letters of the Latin alphabet:

• C - the profile is used for those slots that have a thickness of up to three millimeters.
• K - the profile is similar to the first.
• P and V - the profile is able to eliminate gaps with a thickness of three to five millimeters.
• O and D - the profile is mounted in those doors where the gap has a thickness of up to seven millimeters.

Seals are available different colors. This allows you to individually match the color to your door. So, the aesthetics of the doors will not deteriorate in any way. The most common colors are white, black and brown.

Note! According to some studies, the dye can reduce the quality of rubber. For this reason, it is best to sacrifice aesthetics and stick on a standard black seal!

The main requirement for all seals is the sealing of the door. Based on this, the seal must meet high standards. The seal must be waterproof and airtight, must provide excellent cushioning door leaf when closing and closing. When closing a metal door, a light and soft click should be heard, and not rattling and noise. Among other things, the sealant should not freeze and harden in the cold. Regardless of the conditions in which it is operated, the sealant must retain its basic characteristics under any circumstances.

Mounting on a metal door

If you have a branded door, then the manufacturer makes a profile in which there is already a specially designated place for laying the seal. From the point of view of tightness, such metal doors are the most reliable. Therefore, when buying them, pay attention to such a detail.

In the event that you do not have the funds for such a door, the seal should be purchased and installed by yourself. Using self-adhesive tape, this is very easy to do. The most important thing is to choose the appropriate thickness. We talked about this above. Gluing the seal is quite simple. Wrap plasticine in polyethylene and place it between the door and the frame. Then close the door tightly and open it. As a result, you will get a finished cast of the required thickness. As for the seal sticker, protective layer do not rush to immediately remove from the entire tape. As the film peels off, glue the seal to the frame. At the same time, press it firmly.

Note! In the event that the seal peels off after a few days or weeks, then glue it with Moment glue.

Wooden door seal

For such doors today it is customary to use a variety of floor rails. They allow you to prevent the appearance of drafts or get rid of them altogether. There are several types of them.

• Wedge plank.
• Plastic tube.
• Plastic or metal strips with a brush, etc.

Consider how to properly install them.

Installation of the wedge strip. The plank must be cut to fit the top of the doorway, as well as the sides of the two sides. At the joints, the strips are cut at an angle of 45 °. In places where there are loops and door lock, the bar must be cut. Further, she is nailed. All work will not take you much time.

Installation of the outer bar. The bar, as in the first case, is cut strictly according to the dimensions of the doorway. But only now the bar is screwed on with screws. After its installation between the door in closed and the bar should fit a sheet of paper.

As for sealing the bottom of the door, a slightly different technology and method of using slats is used here. The flashing strips are stuffed to the inside front of the door. It should be noted that there are also several types of slats, each of which has distinctive features.

Flat threshold rails. They are made of plastic or aluminum base. On them, in turn, a rubber plate or brush is attached. They can be used for both external and internal doors.

Planks with plastic shield. They prevent moisture from entering the room. In most cases, they are used to seal the outer door.

Combined rails. They consist of a metal bar as well as a nylon brush. The bar is fixed to the threshold, and the brush to the door. The bar on the threshold prevents the penetration of water into the room, as it has a special groove.

So, some features of the installation of such strips.

Installation of a flat threshold bar. Previously, the bar is cut to the width of the doorway. After it is screwed to the bottom of the door. This bar should be as close to the threshold as possible. But it should not interfere with the free opening of doors. Some types of such slats are equipped special holes for screws, which allows you to easily adjust them.

Installation of a combined plank. In this case, as in the first, the bar and brush are cut off along the width of the threshold. The plank is screwed to the threshold, with the overhanging edge of the plank facing the inside of the door.

As for the installation of the brush, after installation it should exert a slight pressure on the bar. The brush is screwed to the bottom of the door with self-tapping screws.

Mounting the rail on the outer door. Similarly, as in all other cases, the bar is cut to size. The bar should be screwed to the door when closed. It is very important not to use screws that can rust - this can cause the doors to rot.

So, we have considered the main methods of sealing both metal doors and wooden ones. If you know other methods of sealing doors, then write about it in the comments to this article.

Video

Insulation of doors with a seal:

How to insulate the front door with your own hands (10+)

Insulation and sealing of the front door

The front door is often a source of draft. Through it, cold air is blown into the living room. AT apartment building this air comes from staircase together with cigarette smoke and other foreign matter. The seal not only protects from the cold, but also saves from extraneous odors. In suburban housing, sealing is even more relevant, since the front door in this case usually goes directly to the street.

The traditional way of sealing is inconvenient

Usually, special self-adhesive seals are sold for insulation. They are proposed to be glued between the door and the frame at the points of their contact. But this approach has shown to be ineffective. The seal installed in this way is very sensitive to distortions of the door. The slightest distortion leads to a loss of tightness, since the seal no longer fits. Installing such a tape is also not easy. Only if the door stands perfectly, you can simply glue the strip. Otherwise, the distance between the door and the frame in different places Other. So you have to put something under the sealing tape to ensure a secure fit.

How to properly insulate your front door

Another approach is reliable. It is shown in the picture.

The seal is not installed between the door and the jamb, but on the jamb, so as to fit snugly against the door. In this case, the seal has a greater degree of freedom and, accordingly, provides tightness with greater deformation of the door. This method of installation does not depend on the initial position of the door relative to the frame, since when gluing the seal can be installed exactly in the position that will ensure sealing.

I use Moment glue for this work. The work is done like this. The door frame in the place where the seal will be glued is lubricated with glue. The sealing tape itself is cut to the desired length. The edges are cut at 45 degrees to fit with other strips of tape. The side that will be glued is also smeared with glue. The glue is aged for 15 minutes. Next, the door closes. The tape is superimposed on the place smeared with glue so that it fits snugly against the door, and is strongly pressed by hand for 2 - 3 seconds. Further, for complete drying, the glue is aged for a day.

It is convenient to use a rubber tube as a sealing tape (only rubber should be stable, not decompose or stain) or a special sealing cord round section from expanded polyethylene.

The disadvantages of such insulation

The only drawback of the method is that by accidentally touching the seal, it can be torn off. Yes, okay. It's not hard to stick it in place.

Sealed door example

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The level of protection of the house from street noise and cold is affected not only by the quality of the entrance doors, but also by the material that contributes to their tight fit to the box. The absence of gaps creates good tightness, preventing drafts from roaming: in this case, sounds and smells from the outside will not be able to penetrate inside the house.

The classification of materials for sealing doors is carried out according to some basic characteristics. First of all, we are talking about the dimensions, material of manufacture and types of doors for which this seal was developed.

For example, wooden and iron doors are decorated with different types of tapes, although outwardly they are very similar. To choose the right equipment for your door, it is important to navigate this classification.

Sealing tapes by types of doors

For each individual variety, its own sealant was developed.

Input

Most often, the finishing of entrance doors is carried out with a dense material in the form of a tube, inside of which there is a void. Significant thickness and bubbling of the material create a secure fit of the door to the frame. How to choose reliable and warm doors to the house.

Of particular interest is the internal structure of these rubber bands for door insulation. Due to the presence of internal pores, a multiple increase in the warming effect is achieved. Most often, the seal for the front door has a self-adhesive base, which makes its installation very fast.

On the other hand, over time, the adhesive loses its characteristics, and the strips begin to lag behind along the perimeter. You can.

Interroom

The seal for interior doors is not assigned the function of protecting the room from the cold outside, as in the previous case.

This allows you to make it more aesthetic by using more elastic and soft silicone instead of dense rubber. The method of installation of these products may differ, as will be discussed below.

If during the repair process you decide to change the doors, then be sure to read.

Plastic

This group of materials is characterized by a high rate of laying and dismantling. Grooves are usually applied to plastic doors along the line of contact with the box, so the seals are given a special shape that repeats the configuration of these grooves. Due to the presence of walls on the sides of the fixation point, the sealing strip receives additional protection from external aggressive influences. The sealant for plastic doors is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes, so it can be used both outdoors and in interior doors without much difference. It is important to keep in mind that this rubber seal has been designed specifically for grooved plastic doors, so it is not recommended to seal other types of doors with it. In addition, different manufacturers complete their plastic doors with individual seals: this should also be clarified when selecting a suitable material.

glass

In the manufacture of seals for glass doors silicone is used, equipped with a special profiled notch. During the installation of the strip, it is necessary to first moisten the area where it will be placed: this will make the connection as strong as possible. Since the design of glass doors can be very different, therefore, a special seal is developed for each of them.

What are door insulation made of?

In order to choose the most suitable door seals for your home, you should also be guided by the materials of their manufacture.

Rubber

Most often, entrance doors are equipped with a rubber seal. Moreover, the material of manufacture is not simple rubber, but its modified varieties that can withstand the most extreme conditions operation, including severe frost and heat. Besides the draft.

Silicone

The performance characteristics of silicone products are slightly lower than those of rubber. This is due to the fact that silicone cannot be given additional resistance to aggressive external influences even by introducing appropriate additives into its composition. For this reason, silicone liners are mainly produced for wooden interior doors, which are operated in comfortable conditions.

Foam rubber

It is the material for the manufacture of the cheapest door insulation, which fails within one year. The reason for this can be temperature fluctuations, dirt and moisture, which provoke crumbling and disintegration of foam rubber. The material gradually loses its original volume, which affects the functionality of products made from it.

Magnet

An innovative development, with the help of which expensive metal doors are mainly completed. For an ordinary layman, a magnetic seal is familiar to household refrigerators and freezers where permanent magnets along the perimeter of the doors are attracted by the poles of attraction. Most often, metal doors are equipped with three-circuit magnetic seals. The location of the two circuits is the door leaf itself, while the third is mounted on the door frame. The main disadvantage of such products is quite high density pressing, with which the child will not always be able to cope or old man. If the action of the magnets is weakened, then proper tightness and sound insulation will not be provided.

Advantages of a magnetic door seal

Soft filler is made of thermoplastic, which is characterized by the following advantages:

• Considerable service life.
• Persistent transfer of sharp temperature fluctuations (from -65 to +95 degrees).
• Possibility of recycling after loss of performance.

Felt

Usually they are made out with a felt seal. Such tapes cannot provide special protection against noise and cold. They are used solely to prevent dust from entering the cabinet or room.

Basic ways to install door seals

When starting to install a door seal, the first thing to do is to find out what type of product you have to deal with. This will allow you to select the most best way how to glue the sealant. The most common sealing gum grooved and self-adhesive types.

Groove seals

The installation of this material is very simple, so it is most often used for self-repair of doors. The most difficult moment of laying the seal for doors in the groove is finishing the corner sections. Beginners are advised to use accurate trimming of the material. More experienced users achieve continuous laying, without docking sections. The latter option is more preferable, since the level of door sealing in this case is an order of magnitude higher. However, to implement it, you will need to show some skill. Door seals on the bottom are equipped with a special edge on which there is a brush: such a structure of the material contributes to a fairly quick installation into the groove cavity.

In the course of laying both rubber and silicone seals, it is important to avoid even minimal stretching of the tape. Otherwise, an unacceptable stress is formed inside the sealing layer, which will affect its operational qualities. No matter how high-quality silicone or rubber is, they will gradually stretch, losing their original volume and elasticity. Experienced craftsmen when laying the seal in the groove, they try to compress it slightly, which significantly extends the life of the door insulation. trimmings extra parts carried out upon completion of installation. It is more convenient if only one edge of the rubber or silicone tape is left for trimming: in this case, the remaining segment is longer and can be used to insulate another door.

Self-adhesive seal

Laying such material also does not have any particular difficulties, although several useful tips should be taken into account. In order for the self-adhesive rubber seal to stick to the seat with high quality and for a long time, it should be pre-prepared. This procedure includes several steps. Firstly, all dirt must be removed from the surface of the door: this is done not only along a narrow installation area, but by some expansion to the sides. For these purposes, soapy water or detergent is usually used.

Special scrupulousness will require preparation wooden surface. It should not be too moistened - it is enough to wipe it thoroughly with a damp cloth. If seat has roughness, protrusions and irregularities, they need to be eliminated. In this case, the operation technology also depends on the surface material. For example, wood can be lightly sanded and puttied; for metal or plastic surface a gentle sanding will suffice. Individual protrusions can be carefully removed with a chisel or sandpaper. After the area for laying the sealant is cleaned and washed, it must dry completely. Sometimes, if the work is carried out in a closed room, or when it is necessary to speed up the process, a regular hair dryer is used to dry.

Before gluing the seal on the door, it must be degreased. When choosing a degreaser, it is important to consider the surface material. Most often, this procedure is carried out with white spirit, acetone or ordinary alcohol. However, it should be understood that all these agents are toxic and explosive, and they should be handled very carefully. It is better if it is possible to ventilate the premises well after application.

Useful advice: in cases where the seal is laid where people are at that time, it is better to use a special low-toxic emulsion or an aqueous alkaline solution for degreasing.

As for the direct laying of a self-adhesive sealant, this procedure is not particularly difficult. All you have to do is release lower part material from protective film, and carefully place it along the edge of the door. It is more convenient to remove the entire film not at once, but in segments of 10-15 cm, immediately mounting the freed area on the seat. At the same time, it must be pressed tightly against the surface of the door, achieving high-quality gluing. A similar algorithm of actions is maintained throughout the entire procedure. It is more convenient to start work from above, and when you reach the bottom edge of the door leaf, cut the rubber band with a sharp knife or scissors.

When sealing the front door with a protective material, the door frame is also glued. In this case, the material is glued along the outer and inner lines of contact between the two surfaces, which makes it possible to create double protection in the way of outdoor cold and moisture.

As can be seen from the description, any person can seal the door. The main thing is to choose the right material and work carefully.

The sealing tape has not only the function of protecting the home from drafts. In the fight against extraneous sounds coming from the street, the sealant can also play an important role. When choosing, you should pay attention to several aspects: the types of seals, the materials from which they are made, and also use tricks that will help you choose the right door insulation.

Functions

The most important function that a sealant has is draft protection. If the device does not cope with this task, it is a priori of insufficient quality. This is especially true for entrance doors: thermal insulation in this case is extremely important, and only a sufficient level of insulation can provide it. An important heat-insulating function "works" in both directions, at the same time protecting the apartment from cold wind from the street or from the entrance and preventing heat from escaping from the home. It is estimated that non-sealed doors release up to 40% of all heat generated heating appliances. Heating prices are currently quite high, so no one wants to waste precious heat.

Speaking of thermal insulation, it is impossible not to mention that a number of products can withstand significant temperature fluctuations. The amplitude can vary from -65 to +95 degrees Celsius. Thus, by installing high-quality insulation on the front door, you can not worry that it will crack in summer or winter.

Another plus of the sealant is its soundproofing properties. They are inherent both for metal water doors and for interior doors. It happens that the front door exits just next to the road or the playground, and the insufficient level of sound insulation does not allow residents to feel comfortable enough, because annoying sounds from the street greatly interfere. If the rooms are not well insulated from each other, then another problem arises: the impossibility of each doing his own thing without the risk of interfering with the other. Good sound insulation makes situations comfortable when, for example, they play the piano in one room and read in another.

Cushioning properties are another important factor. Everyone has come across a situation where, in the summer, due to open windows drafts walk around the house, and the doors close with a strong bang, disturbing not only the residents of the house, but also their neighbors. The sealing tape conceals unpleasant sound, preventing the creation of annoying pops, as well as extending the life of the door and door frame (due to sudden slamming, they wear out faster).

The seal well protects the house from unnecessary odors or smoke. For example, something might burn in the kitchen. No one wants the “aroma” of burning to instantly spread throughout all the rooms, so the insulation will help keep the smell only in the kitchen. The same can be said about the door to the bathroom: it is better to leave wet steam directly within the bathroom and not let it out into the hallway or corridor.

Thus, the main property that the door seal carries is the sealing of the door leaf. In the Russian climate, this property of the door is extremely important due to strong temperature fluctuations on the streets. Moreover, you should carefully consider the choice of product if you live in a big noisy city, because many metropolitan areas are very busy both day and night. It is for such "sleepless" cities that doors with seals for enhanced sound insulation are well suited. When choosing a door to the kitchen, you also need to make it as airtight as possible, because it is far from always appropriate and pleasant when food smells are heard, for example, in the bedroom.

Kinds

Seals are classified according to several criteria. The first of these is the type of door:

• For entry doors. The seal of the porches for entrance doors is usually made tubular. The profile with a cavity inside completely ensures a sufficient fit of the door, contributing to complete isolation from external influences.
• For interior doors. There are completely different requirements here: there is no need for such strong defense rooms from the environment, the aesthetic component comes first. In some cases, isolation is important (for example, in the bedroom), but not necessary.
• For plastic doors. Seals for plastic doors are placed in a separate category, since they differ significantly from seals for ordinary doors. It is necessary that the groove element reacts well with environment. As a rule, such seals are placed on balcony doors. Please note that, as a rule, only such a part is suitable for a plastic door, which is produced by the same manufacturer as the door itself.
• For glass doors. The profile, which is attached directly to the glass, can be aluminum or silicone. Silicone elements must have a special section, they also serve immediately as a heater, while on aluminum profile you need to make a special seal of rubber. Silicone glass seal is suitable for rooms with high humidity, since there is no risk that he will "depart".

for interior doors

for entrance doors

for steel doors

According to the materials, the following types are distinguished:

• Rubber.
• Silicone.
• Foam rubber.
• Magnet.
• Thermoplastic.
• Felt.

Rubber

Foam rubber

Silicone

Felt

By configuration, the following types are distinguished:

• Tape. It is a soft cord with a rectangular cross section, the width of which is approximately 9 mm.
• Tubular. Despite the fact that a tube seal is most often used for entrance doors, it boasts less sealing properties than tape models. It is a hollow tube inside, which is pressed when the doors are closed, due to which there are no gaps between the door leaf and the frame.
• Slotted. It is made specifically for plastic doors, it is a hollow profile made of soft rubber, on one side of which there is a special brush installed in the grooves. Thus, the impact is reduced external environment on the seal and is almost completely transferred to the door leaf itself.

Tape

Tubular

grooved

• Spring. Attaches to the door frame, not the door. When closing, its parts slide along the spring and close the gaps. Only suitable for mounting on perfectly flat surfaces.
• Mortise. Made for wooden doors. Under such a seal, a small niche is specially cut out in the door frame, which allows you to tightly fit the door leaf in the future. A rubber profile is attached to the niche.
• Folding. Suitable for sealing folding doors, bellows and similar structures.

Tape seals are rarely made wider than 10 mm. This is due to the fact that such a width is optimal both for attaching around the perimeter of the door leaf and for the door frame. Tubular options generally have the same characteristics, regardless of what material they were made from. The size of the seal for a plastic door depends entirely on the manufacturer. It often happens that only one seal model is suitable for each specific door model, and there is no way to replace it with an analogue. It is recommended to give this issue Special attention when choosing a door, is it possible to replace parts with those purchased from another manufacturer, otherwise, during repairs, it may be necessary to change the entire door.

A complex rubber profile remains a universal choice, suitable for both interior doors and entrance doors. It is released in various options, can be made of soft rubber or more dense, the width of the profiles is traditionally 8-10 mm.

• foam rubber it is better not to use the element for front doors and save it in case interior structures. The fact is that foam rubber is not the most durable material and simply will not withstand the kind of exploitation that the front door is subjected to. Foam rubber is quite cheap, while it tolerably copes with the basic functions of a sealant. It is best to use foam inserts for doors that are subject to little use, for example, to the hall.
• Unlike foam, magnetic constructs are used only for entrance doors. The magnetic inserts on the soft rubber profiles guarantee the best fit of the seal, so that protection against drafts or heat leakage from the house is guaranteed. Problems can only arise with the installation of elements, they must be matched exactly to the size of the door, otherwise the magnetic protrusion simply will not allow the door to close.

magnetic

Another current version- colorless heaters. Many people think that they are a good solution only for glass doors, however, this is far from the case. A transparent seal looks great on wooden, plastic, and metal doors, since it is practically invisible. Thus, it can be used in cases where the owner is afraid to spoil the aesthetic appearance of the door or if, from a stylistic point of view, the use of a seal is inappropriate.

According to the invoice, the following types are distinguished:

• Flexible. Smooth or flexible profiles can be made from a variety of various materials, including rubber, silicone, magnet.
• Liquid. Usually used for insulating front doors. It is a kind of liquid foam rubber, which, under the influence of pressure, is applied to the desired areas.
• Pile. The fleecy version is very familiar to many, since it was felt that was originally the only alternative for making door insulation. At this stage in the development of the repair business, a tourniquet and tape are produced not only from pure felt, but also from synthetic fleecy fabric.

Pile

Flexible

Location options are as follows:

• Threshold. They are a good solution in cases where the design of the door does not provide for a threshold. Mainly done on automatic control, which allows the profile to "adjust" to the width of the gap between the door and the floor in the open or closed position.
• Contour. Contour options are the easiest to understand. They are attached around the entire perimeter of the door leaf or frame, while simultaneously eliminating gaps everywhere. Most often used for entrance doors, a triple profile is taken.
• Fireman. A similar thermally expanding option is a substance that, when heated strongly, turns into foam. The foam completely seals the door, preventing the passage of smoke and preventing oxygen from reaching the source of ignition.

Contour.

Fireman

Threshold

Dimensions

Depending on the type of sealant, its dimensions also vary. Also, the optimal size depends on the gap, on how thick it is. A significant role is played by the total footage of the door structure, as well as the features of the purpose of the door. For example, entrance doors require thicker and wider insulation. Flexible rectangular profiles are sold in large rolls, the footage of which depends only on the manufacturer. They are great for eliminating narrow gaps that do not cause much discomfort to the owners of the door.

In some cases, rubber profiles of complex configuration are used. They are suitable for ordinary doors, and even for heavy armored doors. Each of the profiles has its own special shape: C, P, O and so on. Each of the shapes is designed for slots of certain dimensions, however, remember that these profiles serve to insulate gaps 1-4 mm wide, but some shapes are good for insulation and larger slots.

• Profiles of forms C, K, E are suitable for masking small gaps, the size of which does not exceed 3 mm.
• Forms P and V will do an excellent job of masking lye up to 5 mm.
• Less commonly used profiles O and D, which allow you to work with gaps up to 7 mm.

When calculating the required amount of a flexible profile for door insulation, keep in mind that you will definitely need at least 5-6 m of material. It is always better to take a soft seal with a small margin, since if a part of the installed profile suddenly deteriorates, it can always be quickly changed. Rigid seals are made directly to the size of the door. As a rule, independent measurement and acquisition causes certain difficulties, so it is better to turn to professionals with this issue. There is only one seal on the market that requires such a delicate selection - this is a magnetic option.

Seals differ in thickness. Soft thin profiles are selected for interior doors, while entrance doors need more impressive insulation. Thick rubber profiles, often multi-layered, have impressive dimensions compared to miniature interior samples. Thus, when choosing a seal of the required size, it is imperative to focus not only on the type of seal, but also on the functional purpose of the insulated door, on the size of the existing gaps. Pay attention to where the element will be attached: around the perimeter of the door frame or directly on the door leaf. Traditionally, thicker options are mounted on the door frame than on the door itself, since when installed on the door frame, there is little risk that the door simply will not close.

Which seal material is best?

At the moment, a huge range of materials from which door seals are made is presented. After reviewing the characteristics of each of them, you will be able to determine exactly which option is right for you.

• Rubber sealant, perhaps the most popular today. This is due to the versatility of the material, since it tolerates temperature extremes, high humidity and other negative impacts. So that bacteria do not multiply at the joints or a fungus does not appear, the rubber is pre-treated special composition, which prevents the activity of bacteria and disinfects the surface.
• Silicone option is a good alternative rubber seal. Mostly silicone is used for insulating glass doors, since it is tightly glued to the glass, one has only to moisten it with water and let it dry. Silicone does not crack under the influence of strong temperature changes and does not come off glass. Silicone elements are much better than rubber ones, they are suitable for rooms with high humidity, such as a bathhouse, sauna, bathroom.

• A special place is occupied by modern TEP seals. They are distinguished by the ability to adapt to extremely high or extremely low temperatures. Sometimes the spread can be more than 100 degrees - from -70 to +95 degrees Celsius. The European formulation of thermoplastic elastomer guarantees high reliability, long term service life, good impact resistance, low profile deformation during operation.
• Felt is the most traditional and familiar material from childhood. Due to the fact that felt is still made from natural wool, it protects the room well from the cold and is on the list of leaders largely because of this. During the entire service life, felt insulation does not lose its original properties, well enduring Russian harsh weather realities, and saves heat. Contrary to popular belief, felt is completely fireproof because it has a very dense structure that makes it difficult to burn.

What are the colors?

Today, seals are produced in a mass of colors, which include not only classic black or white. It is possible to choose the necessary model for the door of any shade, whether it is a balcony plastic sample of white color or a bright door to the nursery. However, it is the white and black versions that are most popular with consumers. White models are selected mainly for plastic doors when owners need to decorate some cosmetic flaws. Also, white seals look good on interior options, while a white element is unlikely to look appropriate on the front door.

For the front door, on the contrary, black insulation is the best solution. Black models go well with almost all types of metal doors, and this fact should be taken into account. In addition, painted rubber insulation for entrance doors do a worse job of their functions, since the paint significantly changes chemical composition material. The same can be said about balcony doors from plastic. It is best to choose a black sealant, it will protect the living rooms as much as possible from drafts from the outside.

There are a lot of color models. There are no texture swatches or patterned options, but color choices are virtually unlimited. The most popular is the whole range of brown shades, since seals are often selected for wooden doors, and people try to choose them so that they are as invisible as possible on door leaf did not spoil the overall impression. Please note that often, for a relatively small fee, they offer to immediately supply the door with a suitable seal. desired color. As a rule, this option is more preferable, especially if you know in advance that you need to install such a semblance of a slot cover. The decision to buy a door with finished element seals will save you a lot of time and effort that you would have spent searching for, but it won’t hit your budget much.

Whatever color seal you choose, remember that general form rooms and doors separately should remain harmonious, however, it is much more important that the chosen sample copes well with its main functions.

What are they fastening?

There are several options for attaching seals. Each of them is determined by the type of fastening that a particular option is equipped with.

• Groove installation. Profiles for fastening in a groove are equipped with a special fastening-brush. You don't need to install Additional materials, however, this does not make the installation of such elements the easiest. The main difficulty that most people have when working with groove seals is fitting them to required size. It should be understood that rubber is a material that stretches easily and takes its original shape just as easily, therefore, when cutting or pressing directly into the groove, the product cannot be pulled out, on the contrary, it should be “picked up” a little. The cutting of the groove seals should be carried out after they have been installed in place, otherwise there is a high risk of cutting off the excess, and this will inevitably negate the entire effect that was planned to be obtained due to the installation of the elements.

• Self adhesive option. Usually installation with self-adhesive tape causes the least difficulty. As in the previous case, the only equipment you will need is a paint knife, which, after gluing, needs to cut the insulation to the desired length. Most important place in the preparatory process takes the preparation of the surface: it must not only be well cleaned of dirt and dust, but also thoroughly degreased. Traditionally, the tape is glued from left to right and from top to bottom, that is, on the sides, pasting must begin from the top corner. Gradually, little by little, the protective layer is removed from the sticky side of the seal, the tape, without stretching, is fixed on the surface, and only after it is completely fixed, you can again release a little adhesive tape and fix it further. The step is approximately 10 cm.

• For nails or screws. This option in recent times is not particularly popular, since a good alternative to nails is adhesive tape or glue. In some cases, it is impossible to install a self-adhesive sample (for example, if the surface is uneven or the sealant is too heavy), and then traditional nails are remembered again. The distance between the nails is 5-7 cm, it is not recommended to install fasteners less often, as sagging may occur through which cold air will enter the room. When installing the insulation on self-tapping screws or nails, you need to act very carefully, because if the hats are not deepened enough, the door will close with difficulty or not at all. The option is mainly suitable for entrance doors, and in the case of interior doors, it is better to do without a sealant at all than to choose a nail mount.







• For wooden door log house a good solution would be to use silicone insulation. Pay attention to how easy it is to replace one model with another. Wooden houses over time, they "sit down", and after a few years, the door will be hard to close, then it will be necessary to replace the existing sample.
• For wooden doors in ordinary houses, the installation of mortise seals, which are almost invisible against the background of the door, is very popular. If possible, it is recommended to choose this contour option, as it will provide you good sound insulation, and if the door dries out, the seal can be simply removed without harm to aesthetics.