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How to make a homemade generator. Asynchronous motor as a generator

Unfortunately, domestic power supply organizations do not keep their word. Their contracts signed with consumers are worth nothing. The supply of electricity outside of large cities is unstable, the quality of the supplied current is low (meaning voltage), so residents of small cities and towns always have candles, kerosene lamps in stock, and the most advanced install gasoline current generators. This article will offer another option, which will be indicated by the question, how to make an electric generator with your own hands? Let's look at one version of this device.

Electric generator from walk-behind tractor

Residents of suburban villages have long used walk-behind tractors. After all, today it is, so to speak, the most reliable assistant, without which work in the garden or garden is not carried out. True, like all this type of tools, the walk-behind tractor fails. You can restore it, but as practice shows, it is better to buy a new one.

The owners of the instrument are in no hurry to say goodbye to it, so each owner of a country house has one old copy in the pantry. It will be possible to use it in the design of an electric generator with a voltage of 220/380 volts. It will create torque for the current generator, which can be adapted as a conventional induction motor. In this case, a powerful electric motor will be required (at least 15 kW, with a shaft speed of 800-1600 rpm). Why such a large motor power?

It makes no sense to make a home-made generator for a couple of light bulbs, because the issue of fully providing a country house with electricity is being solved. And with an electric motor of small power, it will not work to get enough electricity. Although it all depends on the total power of household appliances and lighting at home. Indeed, in small dachas, there is nothing but a refrigerator with a TV. Therefore, advice - first calculate the power of the house, then choose an electric motor-generator.

Assembly of the generator

So, in order to assemble a gasoline generator with your own hands with a voltage of 220 volts, you need to install a walk-behind tractor and an electric motor on one frame so that their shafts are parallel. The thing is that the rotation from the walk-behind tractor to the electric motor will be transmitted using two pulleys. One will be mounted on the shaft of a gasoline engine, the second on the shaft of an electric one. In this case, it is necessary to correctly select the diameters of the pulleys. It is these dimensions that select the frequency of rotation of the electric motor. This indicator must be equal to the nominal, which is indicated on the equipment tag. A slight upward deviation of 10-15% is welcome.

When the mechanical part of the assembly is completed, the pulleys connected by the belt will be installed, you can proceed to the electrical part.

First, the windings of the electric motor are connected in a star pattern.
Secondly, the capacitors connected to each winding must form a triangle.
Thirdly, the voltage in such a circuit is removed between the end of the winding and the midpoint. It is here that a current of 220 volts is obtained, and between the windings of 380 volts.

Attention! Capacitors installed in the electrical circuit must have the same capacitance. In this case, the capacitance value is selected depending on the power of the electric motor. It is this ratio that will support the correct operation of the current generator itself, but especially its start-up.

For information, we give the ratio of motor power to the capacitance of capacitors:

2 kW - 60 uF.
5 kW - 140 uF.
10 kW - 250 uF.
15 kW - 350 uF.

Check out some helpful tips from the experts.

If the electric motor gets warm, then it is necessary to change the capacitors to elements with a reduced capacity.
Typically, for homemade power generators, capacitors with a voltage of at least 400 volts are used.
Usually one capacitor is enough for a resistive load.
If there is a need to use all three phases of the electric motor to power the house, then a three-phase transformer must be installed in the network.

And one moment. If you are faced with the problem of how to organize heating using a home-made electric generator, then the engine from the walk-behind tractor will be small here (meaning the power of the device). The best option is an engine from a car, for example, from an Oka or a Zhiguli. Many may say that such equipment will cost a pretty penny. Nothing like this. You can buy a used car today for a penny, so the costs will be miserable.

Advantages and disadvantages

So, what are the advantages of this device:

You console yourself with the thought that you made it yourself. That is, you are proud of yourself.
Financial costs are reduced to a minimum. A homemade unit will cost much less than its factory counterpart.
If all assembly steps are carried out correctly, then the electrical equipment assembled by your hands can be considered reliable and quite productive.

A few negative points of this kind of devices.

If you are new to electrics or are trying, without delving into all the subtleties and nuances of assembly, to make a current generator, then you will fail. The time and money spent by you will be considered thrown to the wind.

In principle, this is the only drawback, which inspires optimism.

Other generator designs

The petrol option is not the only one. There are many ways to make the motor shaft rotate. For example, using a windmill or a water pump. Not the simplest designs, but they allow you to move away from the consumption of energy in the form of gasoline.

For example, it is also easy to assemble a hydrogenerator with your own hands. If a river flows near the house, its water can be used as a force to rotate the shaft. To do this, a wheel with many containers is installed in its channel. With this design, it is possible to create a flow of water that will rotate a turbine attached to an electric motor shaft. And the larger the volume of each tank, the more often they are installed (the number increases), the greater the power of the water flow. In fact, this is a kind of generator voltage regulator.

With wind generators, things are a little different, because wind loads are not constant values. The rotation of the windmill, which is transmitted to the shaft of the electric motor, must be regulated, adjusting to the required value of the frequency of rotation of the electric motor shaft. Therefore, in this design, the voltage regulator is a conventional mechanical gearbox. But here, as they say, a double-edged sword. If the wind reduces gusts, a step-up gearbox is needed, if, on the contrary, it increases, a reduction gearbox is needed. This is the complexity of the construction of a wind power generator.

Conclusion on the topic

Summing up, you need to understand that homemade power generators are not a panacea. It is better to ensure that electricity is constantly supplied to the village. It is difficult to achieve this, but you can get compensation for the inconvenience through the courts. And the money already received will be used to purchase a factory gasoline generator. True, you will have to take into account the consumption of expensive fuel (gasoline). But if there is a desire to assemble an electric generator with your own hands, then delve into the topic and try.

Many people use a gasoline generator in their work and daily life. Today the market is saturated with such devices and you need an idea of what is and what is needed to determine your choice.

The gasoline generator is a self-contained power supply system that uses gasoline as the consumed fuel.

Classification of gasoline generators.

Gas stations can be classified according to several criteria. Each generator is ready to work under certain conditions and at certain voltages.

Professional and home;
Portable and stationary;
Two-stroke and four-stroke;
Single-phase and three-phase;
Power: up to 4 kW, up to 15 kW, up to 30 kW.

Household generators are ideal for private homes or long trips to nature.

The use of professional units is essential for companies to connect complex tools.

Portable models have low power (up to 5 kVA), weight and dimensions, which allows them to move to another place.

Two-stroke engines are installed on low-energy gasoline units, the power of which does not exceed 1 kW. In all other cases, a four-stroke engine is installed.

Most private consumers may be limited to a single-phase electrical generator.

Three-phase is much more expensive, not the fact that its functionality will someday be in demand. At the same time, most single electrical networks are powered by single-phase current.

Domestic power plants.
Power does not exceed 4 kW. This is enough to power a private home, warehouse or smaller workshop. Gasoline generators of this type are not designed for 24-hour operation.

The longest period of continuous operation is 4 hours. The cooling system must then be provided and then restarted.
Industrial BGU. They have power up to 15 kW. Suitable for trade organizations and construction sites. The increased performance extends the generator's continuous run time to 10 hours.
Of the diesel generators of the same class, BGU is characterized by lower weight and dimensions.
Filling stations up to 30 kW most commonly used for power supply in office buildings or large warehouses. These devices are permanently installed in pre-prepared premises.

Petrol generator.

A gas generator is similar to a diesel unit.

The key element of the device is the engine.

Two types of engines can be used:

Duple.
They are installed in low-energy installations for short-term operation.
Four stroke. They have an increased margin of safety. The period of uninterrupted operation is 5-7 hours. Engine source - 3-4 thousand hours.

The engine is equipped with various systems. One of them is responsible for the supply of fuel, the second - to prevent noise, the third for the supply of lubricants. There is also a kit in the exhaust pipe.

The motor output determines the type of generator used - single-phase or three-phase.

If the planned load exceeds 5 kW, the power plant is equipped with a three-phase generator.

In addition, generators can be asynchronous or synchronous.

Some budget models are equipped with asynchronous generators, which have a simple design.

Synchronous generators can withstand three months of voltage.

The quality and flawless operation of the key indoor units of the electric generator are monitored by instruments.

The gas generator diagram shows the location of all electrical installation blocks and their influence on the operation of the device. The structural structure of the structure connects all the nodes in one working complex.

The principle of operation of a gasoline generator.

To ensure the quality and timely operation of the device and to identify possible problems, you need to have an understanding of how the power generator works.

The principle of operation of a gasoline generator is as follows.

The power of the gasoline generator is determined by the number of turns of the stator winding.

The power of gasoline mini-power plants usually does not exceed 12 kW.

Increase generator power by 2 times

When generators with an excitation coil came into use to obtain direct current, the cost of semiconductor diodes was quite high, therefore, in order to save money, a traditional circuit was used to connect the windings of a three-phase generator, called a star.

At that time, few people were worried about such moments that sometimes the coils work in antiphase, since the main thing was that it was cheaper.

To date, semiconductor diodes for generators DC, with an excitation coil, are much cheaper compared to the rest of the generator design. In this regard, an increase in the number of diodes will not lead to a significant increase in the cost of the product, while it is also possible to reduce the size of the generator itself, which will lead to a significant decrease in its mass and total cost.

Consider the developed and tested original circuit for switching on diodes and windings of a DC generator.

Thanks to the modern electronic element base, it is possible to select diode bridges of sufficient power in miniature cases.

In this regard, it is possible to replace 6 diodes under the generator cover with 3 powerful diode bridges.

In practice, this device was tested on a motorcycle generator with an initial rated power of 150 watts.

An amazing result was obtained. To consider all the nuances, a test bench for the generator was developed. Analyze the results of the tests carried out on generator power increase.

The readings located below the line are responsible for the discharge of the battery, and those above are responsible for the charge.

The ignition system was not taken into account during the measurements, which means that the standard generator located in the electrical circuit of the motorcycle is not able to feed the 200 watt lamps. The alternator, on which the power was increased, performed well at a load of 200 watts while driving in the city, as well as at a load of 400 watts while driving on the freeway. The heating of the stator coil was noted, which at the same time never exceeded more than 100 degrees.

We make a gas generator with our own hands

Note that the rein can withstand up to 120 degrees. In practice, it turned out that for a high-quality diode bridge, only a good radiator is required, while if you do not use the generator at a load of 400 watts while the motorcycle is idle, then the impeller will not need to be installed.

As a result, the design is lightened by one detail, which bothered the wound with an additional ringing, easily audible on the stand.

Using such a winding switching scheme, it is possible to increase generator power without structural changes from 200 to 500 watts.

How to make a 12 volt gas generator

Of course, you can buy any ordinary 220 volt gas generator and connect a charger and it will be a gas generator with a 12 volt output. But if you are looking for a 12-volt gas generator, then you want to have more battery charge power, and at the same time have a high charge efficiency.

I personally tried the first option with a charger.

I have a 1 kW gas generator, I connected a transformer car charger to it. It could give a charge current of up to 10-12A, while overheating greatly. In this way, for an hour of operation of the gas generator, I was able to “fill in” only 120 watts of energy into the battery.

This is very little, and the gas generator consumes more than 0.5 liters of gasoline per hour.

To charge a dead battery at 120Ah, I will have to drive a gas generator for 10 hours, which is at least 6 liters of gasoline, and I will store only 1 kW of energy.

I tried to install a pulse charger, but it burned out from the excess voltage of the gas generator. The fact is that these pulse chargers can withstand a maximum of 260-270 volts.

Homemade generator

And if you disconnect the load from the gas generator, then it cannot sharply slow down, and for a short time the voltage without load rises to 300 volts. This is what kills pulse chargers, and transformers do not care about it.

By the way, my gas generator had an output of 12 volts 10A. But in fact, it gave a charge current of only 5-6A and the built-in current protection constantly worked, in short, this turned out to be a useless option.

There are no 12 volt gas generators for sale at all, there are only expensive welding generators. And I decided to redo my gas generator to charge 12 volt batteries.

Below is the video of the first samples of the operation of the gas generator. I did not do it in my own building, it was not possible to place the generator there because of the belt drive.

I used a car generator for 14V 60A.

In this embodiment, I received an average charge current of 25A, while the engine speed was only about 1500 rpm, which is two times lower than it worked before with a 220V generator. The engine began to run quieter, it became much more economical in terms of gasoline, and at the same time, it turns out to give out about 400 watts of energy per hour of operation of the gas generator.

In general, if you add engine speed, then the generator easily produces 40-50A of charge current. You can put a generator at 90A and get 1kWh of power. I sometimes charge my batteries in a solar power station with such a converted gas generator. While everything suits me, the charge current is 25A at low generator speeds.

By the way, a car generator does not need to be redone at all, and at the same time, a charge regulator is already built into it, so you cannot recharge the batteries.

Connecting the generator to the battery as in a car.

There are a lot of photos and videos on the Internet on homemade 12 volt generators. For example

Also a 12 volt gas generator from a chainsaw and a car generator

There are many options for manufacturing such gas generators.

From a chainsaw it will probably be the cheapest option, but not very durable and reliable. The most important thing is the engine from the walk-behind tractor, you can connect a powerful car generator to it through a belt.

E-VETEROK.RU wind and solar energy – 2013 Mail: e-vet [email protected] Google+

From what you can assemble an electric generator with your own hands

Unfortunately, domestic power supply organizations do not keep their word.

Their contracts signed with consumers are worth nothing. The supply of electricity outside of large cities is unstable, the quality of the supplied current is low (meaning voltage), so residents of small cities and towns always have candles, kerosene lamps in stock, and the most advanced install gasoline current generators.

This article will offer another option, which will be indicated by the question, how to make an electric generator with your own hands? Let's look at one version of this device.

Electric generator from walk-behind tractor

Residents of suburban villages have long used walk-behind tractors.

After all, today it is, so to speak, the most reliable assistant, without which work in the garden or garden is not carried out. True, like all this type of tools, the walk-behind tractor fails. You can restore it, but as practice shows, it is better to buy a new one.

It will create torque for the current generator, which can be adapted as a conventional induction motor. In this case, a powerful electric motor will be required (at least 15 kW, with a shaft speed of 800-1600 rpm).

Why such a large motor power?

Although it all depends on the total power of household appliances and lighting at home. Indeed, in small dachas, there is nothing but a refrigerator with a TV. Therefore, advice - first calculate the power of the house, then choose an electric motor-generator.

Assembly of the generator

The thing is that the rotation from the walk-behind tractor to the electric motor will be transmitted using two pulleys. One will be mounted on the shaft of a gasoline engine, the second on the shaft of an electric one. In this case, it is necessary to correctly select the diameters of the pulleys. It is these dimensions that select the frequency of rotation of the electric motor. This indicator must be equal to the nominal, which is indicated on the equipment tag.

A slight upward deviation of 10-15% is welcome.

When the mechanical part of the assembly is completed, the pulleys connected by the belt will be installed, you can proceed to the electrical part.

Electric generator device

First, the windings of the electric motor are connected in a star pattern.
Secondly, the capacitors connected to each winding must form a triangle.
Thirdly, the voltage in such a circuit is removed between the end of the winding and the midpoint.
It is here that a current of 220 volts is obtained, and between the windings of 380 volts.

Attention! Capacitors installed in the electrical circuit must have the same capacitance. In this case, the capacitance value is selected depending on the power of the electric motor. It is this ratio that will support the correct operation of the current generator itself, but especially its start-up.

For information, we give the ratio of motor power to the capacitance of capacitors:

2 kW - 60 uF.
5 kW - 140 uF.
10 kW - 250 uF.
15 kW - 350 uF.

Check out some helpful tips from the experts.

If the electric motor gets warm, then it is necessary to change the capacitors to elements with a reduced capacity.
Typically, for homemade power generators, capacitors with a voltage of at least 400 volts are used.
Usually one capacitor is enough for a resistive load.
If there is a need to use all three phases of the electric motor to power the house, then a three-phase transformer must be installed in the network.

And one moment.

If you are faced with the problem of how to organize heating using a home-made electric generator, then the engine from the walk-behind tractor will be small here (meaning the power of the device).

The best option is an engine from a car, for example, from an Oka or a Zhiguli. Many may say that such equipment will cost a pretty penny. Nothing like this. You can buy a used car today for a penny, so the costs will be miserable.

Advantages and disadvantages

So, what are the advantages of this device:

You console yourself with the thought that you made it yourself.
That is, you are proud of yourself.
Financial costs are reduced to a minimum. A homemade unit will cost much less than its factory counterpart.
If all assembly steps are carried out correctly, then the electrical equipment assembled by your hands can be considered reliable and quite productive.

A few negative points of this kind of devices.

If you are new to electrics or are trying, without delving into all the subtleties and nuances of assembly, to make a current generator, then you will fail.

In principle, this is the only drawback, which inspires optimism.

Other generator designs

The petrol option is not the only one.

There are many ways to make the motor shaft rotate. For example, using a windmill or a water pump. Not the simplest designs, but they allow you to move away from the consumption of energy in the form of gasoline.

For example, it is also easy to assemble a hydrogenerator with your own hands. If a river flows near the house, its water can be used as a force to rotate the shaft.

To do this, a wheel with many containers is installed in its channel. With this design, it is possible to create a flow of water that will rotate a turbine attached to an electric motor shaft. And the larger the volume of each tank, the more often they are installed (the number increases), the greater the power of the water flow. In fact, this is a kind of generator voltage regulator.

With wind generators, things are a little different, because wind loads are not constant values.

The rotation of the windmill, which is transmitted to the shaft of the electric motor, must be regulated, adjusting to the required value of the frequency of rotation of the electric motor shaft.

Therefore, in this design, the voltage regulator is a conventional mechanical gearbox. But here, as they say, a double-edged sword. If the wind reduces gusts, a step-up gearbox is needed, if, on the contrary, it increases, a reduction gearbox is needed.

This is the complexity of the construction of a wind power generator.

Conclusion on the topic

Summing up, you need to understand that homemade power generators are not a panacea.

We collect and connect electric generators for the house with our own hands

It is better to ensure that electricity is constantly supplied to the village. It is difficult to achieve this, but you can get compensation for the inconvenience through the courts. And the money already received will be used to purchase a factory gasoline generator. True, you will have to take into account the consumption of expensive fuel (gasoline).

But if there is a desire to assemble an electric generator with your own hands, then delve into the topic and try.

How to properly connect a 380 to 220 volt electric motor

How to make a generator from an asynchronous motor with your own hands

The device and principle of operation of a three-phase asynchronous motor

Gensets

The generator set, or, as it is commonly called, the generator, is the main source of electrical power in the car. It should be noted that the generator set includes not only the generator as such, but also its drive, as well as devices for regulating and converting the generated voltage.

Generators are electrical machines that convert mechanical energy into electrical energy.

In principle, generators of electrical energy are machines that convert any kind of energy - thermal, nuclear, chemical, light, etc. into electrical energy. But it has traditionally developed so that machines that convert the mechanical energy of movement into electricity are usually called generators.

Most often, for such a transformation in generators, the mechanical energy of rotation of one of the structural elements, called the armature or rotor, is used.
It is fundamentally possible to convert the mechanical energy of the translational motion of a body into electrical energy, but this type of generator is not used in practice due to the complexity of the design and low efficiency.

The automobile generator receives mechanical energy from the crankshaft of the engine, with which it is connected with a drive, most often a V-belt or flat belt.

The electrical energy obtained as a result of the operation of the generator is used to power the vehicle's electrical consumers - the ignition system, lighting and alarm systems, electric drives and instrumentation, computer devices, etc., as well as to charge the battery.
Since the number and total power of electricity consumers in modern cars is progressively growing, the generators used to produce electrical energy have a high power that can reach 1 kW or even more.

The generator "takes" this power from the engine, reducing its dynamic and economic performance. Nevertheless, such losses have to be put up with, since a modern car, even a diesel one, will not go far without electric power.

Vehicles may use alternating or direct current generators.

The history of the invention of the generator

The operation of a generator that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy is based on the phenomenon of magnetoelectric induction, which is usually (and not quite correctly) called the phenomenon of electromagnetic induction.

Electromagnetic induction - the phenomenon of the occurrence of an electric current in a closed circuit when the magnetic flux passing through it changes. In practice, this can be achieved, for example, by moving a metal frame in a magnetic field generated by a permanent magnet.
The phenomenon was discovered and described by the English physicist Michael Faraday (1791–1867) in 1831.
Many scientists studied the nature of electrical phenomena when a conductor was exposed to a permanent magnet, but Faraday was the first to publish his experiments and draw the appropriate conclusions.

Analyzing the results of experiments on the study of electromagnetic induction, Faraday found that the electromotive force arising in a closed conducting circuit is proportional to the rate of change of the magnetic flux through the surface bounded by this circuit.

The magnitude of the electromotive force (EMF) does not depend on what causes the change in the flux - a change in the magnetic field itself or the movement of a circuit (or part of it) in a magnetic field.
The electric current caused by this EMF is called the induction current.

The occurrence of EMF is explained by the action of magnetic field forces on free electrons located in conductors, which begin to move directionally, accumulating at one of the ends of the conductor.

As a result of this movement of electrons, a negative electric charge will arise at one end of the conductor, and a positive one at the other end.

The potential difference at the ends of the conductor is numerically equal to the EMF induced in the conductor.

The induction of EMF in the conductor occurs regardless of whether it is included in any electrical circuit or not. If you connect the ends of this conductor to any receiver of electrical energy, then under the influence of a potential difference, an electric current will flow through a closed circuit.

It is believed that the first electric current generator based on the phenomenon of electromagnetic induction was built in 1832.

Parisian inventor Hippolyte Pixii (1808-1835). This generator was suitable only for demonstration purposes, and not for practical use, since it was necessary to manually rotate a heavy permanent magnet, due to which an alternating electric current arose in two wire coils fixed near its poles.
In the future, the Pixie generator was improved, and began to be used in various fields of mechanical engineering.

DC generators

Until the 60s, the main source of energy for cars was DC generators, in which, as the name implies, mechanical energy is converted into DC electrical energy.

The DC generator consists of a stator - a fixed housing with electromagnetic elements placed in it, a rotating armature with windings, and a collector with a brush assembly.

The armature is equipped with several windings of conductive coils, which, when the armature rotates, cross the magnetic field of the stationary stator, as a result of which an electromotive force is induced in the windings - EMF.
The magnitude of the EMF in the windings during the rotation of the armature constantly changes in magnitude and in direction, depending on the position of the coils relative to the stator magnetic field.
Through the collector assembly, the EMF induced in the stator windings is removed into the electrical circuit for further processing and reduction to the required parameters.

The principle of operation of a DC generator is based on the fact that if a conductive loop with open ends is rotated in a constant magnetic field, an EMF is induced in it, and a potential difference appears at its ends of the loop.

A simplified diagram of a DC generator is shown in fig. one.
In the magnetic field of a permanent magnet, a steel cylindrical core rotates, in the longitudinal grooves of which a diametrical coil abcd is placed.

The beginning d and the end a of this coil are connected to two mutually insulated copper half-rings, forming a collector that rotates together with the steel core.
Fixed contact brushes A and B slide along the collector, from which wires extend to the energy consumer R.

A steel core with a coil (winding) and a collector forms the rotating part of the DC generator - the armature.

If the armature is rotated with the help of some external force, then the sides of the coil will intersect the magnetic field, and an EMF will appear in the armature windings, the value of which is determined by the formula:

where B is induction; l is the length of the coil side; v is the speed of movement of the slotted sides of the coil.

Since the length and speed of movement of the slotted sides of the armature winding are unchanged, the EMF of the armature winding is directly proportional to B, and the shape of the EMF graph is determined by the law of distribution of magnetic induction B located in the air gap between the surface of the armature and the pole of the magnet itself.

So, for example, the magnetic induction at the gap points lying on the axis of the poles has maximum values (Fig. 2, a): under the north pole (N) - a positive value and under the south pole (S) - negative. At points n and n' lying on a line passing through the middle of the interpolar space, the magnetic induction is zero.

Let us assume that the magnetic induction in the air gap of the circuit under consideration is distributed sinusoidally:

B = Bmax×sinα.

Then the EMF of the coil during the rotation of the armature will also change according to a sinusoidal law.

How to make an electric generator on your own

Angle α determines the change in the position of the anchor relative to its original position.

On fig. 2a shows a number of positions of the coil abcd (winding) at different times during one revolution of the armature.
At α = 360˚, the armature EMF is zero, and at α = 270˚, it has a maximum value, and it is negative.

Thus, an alternating EMF is induced in the armature winding of a DC generator, and, therefore, when a load is connected, an alternating current will act in the winding (Fig.

2b – line 1).

During the second half-turn of the armature, when the EMF and current in the armature winding are negative, the EMF and current in the external circuit of the generator (in the load) do not change their direction, i.e., remain positive, as during the first half of the turn of the armature.

Indeed, at α = 90˚, brush A is in contact with the collector plate of the conductor d, located under the pole N, and has a positive potential, and brush B is negative, since it is in contact with the collector plate connected to side a of the coil, located under the pole S .

At α = 270˚, when sides a and d are reversed, brushes A and B retain their polarity unchanged, since the commutator half-rings are also reversed and brush A still has contact with the commutator plate associated with the side under the N pole , and brush B - with a collector plate connected to the side under the pole S.

As a result, the current in the external circuit does not change its direction (Fig. 2, b - line 2), i.e., the alternating current of the armature winding is converted into direct current with the help of a collector and brushes.
The current in the external circuit is constant only in direction, and its magnitude varies, i.e.

e. it pulsates as shown in the graph of fig. 2b.

The current ripple and EMF are significantly weakened if the armature winding is made of a large number of turns evenly spaced and distributed over the surface of the core and the number of collector plates is increased accordingly.

For example, in two turns on the armature core (four grooved sides), the axes of which are offset relative to each other by an angle of 90˚, and four plates in the collector (Fig. 3, a).
In this case, the current in the external circuit of the generator pulsates with a doubled frequency, but the pulsation depth is much less (Fig.

3b). If the turns in the armature winding are from 12 to 16, then the current at the output of the generator is almost constant.

On fig. 4 shows the design of the DC generator.

Alternators

I found an article on the Internet on how to convert a car generator to a permanent magnet generator. Is it possible to use this principle and remake the generator with your own hands from an asynchronous electric motor? It is possible that there will be large energy losses, not such an arrangement of coils.

I have an asynchronous type motor for a voltage of 110 volts, revolutions - 1450, 2.2 amperes, single-phase. With the help of containers, I do not undertake to make a home-made generator, as there will be large losses.

It is proposed to use simple engines according to this scheme.

If you change the engine or generator with rounded magnets from the speakers, then you need to install them in crabs? Crabs are two metal parts, anchored outside the excitation coils.

If magnets are put on the shaft, then the shaft will shunt the magnetic lines of force. How then will the excitement be? The coil is also located on a metal shaft.

If you change the connection of the windings and make a parallel connection, accelerate to a speed above normal values, then you get 70 volts. Where can I get a mechanism for such revolutions? If you rewind it to a decrease in speed and lower power, then the power will drop too much.

An induction motor with a closed rotor is iron, which is filled with aluminum. You can take a homemade generator from a car, which has a voltage of 14 volts, a current of 80 amperes. This is good data. An engine with an alternating current collector from a vacuum cleaner or washing machine can be used for a generator. Install bias on the stator, remove the DC voltage from the brushes. According to the highest EMF, change the angle of the brushes. The efficiency tends to zero. But, better than a synchronous type generator, they did not invent.

I decided to try a homemade generator. A single-phase asynchronous motor from a baby washer twisted with a drill. I connected a capacitance of 4 microfarads to it, it turned out 5 volts 30 hertz and a current of 1.5 milliamps for a short circuit.

Not every electric motor can be used as a generator in this way. There are motors with a steel rotor that have a low degree of magnetization on the remainder.

It is necessary to know the difference between electrical energy conversion and energy generation. There are several ways to convert 1 phase to 3. One of them is mechanical energy. If the power plant is disconnected from the socket, then all conversion is lost.

It is clear where the movement of the wire with an increase in speed comes from. Where the magnetic field will be to obtain the EMF in the wire is not clear.

It's easy to explain. Due to the mechanism of magnetism that remains, an EMF is formed in the armature. There is a current in the stator winding, which is closed to the capacitance.

The current has arisen, which means that it gives an increase in the electromotive force on the coils of the rotor shaft. The emerging current gives an increase in the electromotive force. The stator electric current generates much more electromotive force. This goes until the equilibrium of the stator magnetic fluxes and the rotor is established, as well as additional losses.

The size of the capacitors is calculated so that the voltage at the terminals reaches the nominal value. If it is small, then reduce the capacity, then increase it. There were doubts about the old motors, which supposedly are not excited. After accelerating the rotor of a motor or generator, it is necessary to poke quickly into any phase with a small amount of volts. Everything will return to normal. Charge the capacitor to a voltage equal to half the capacitance. Turn on with a three-pole switch. This applies to a 3-phase motor. Such a scheme is used for generators of passenger transport cars, since they have a squirrel-cage rotor.

Method 2

You can make a homemade generator in another way. The stator has a tricky design (it has a special design solution), it is possible to adjust the output voltage. I made a generator of this kind with my own hands at the construction site. The engine took a power of 7 kW at 900 rpm. I connected the excitation winding according to the triangle circuit for 220 V. I started it at 1600 revolutions, the capacitors were 3 at 120 microfarads. They were switched on by a contactor with three poles. The generator acted as a three-phase rectifier. From this rectifier, an electric drill with a 1000-watt collector was fed, and a circular saw for 2200 watts, 220 V, grinder 2000 watts.

I had to make a soft start system, another resistor with a shorted phase after 3 seconds.

For motors with manifolds, this is not correct. If the rotating frequency is doubled, then the capacitance will also decrease.

The frequency will also increase. The tank circuit was switched off in automatic mode so as not to use the reactivity torus, not to consume fuel.

During operation, it is necessary to press the stator of the contactor. Three phases dismantled them out of uselessness. The reason lies in the high gap and increased field dissipation of the poles.

Special mechanisms with a double cage for squirrels and slanting eyes for squirrels. Still, I received 100 volts and a frequency of 30 hertz from the washing machine motor, the 15-watt lamp does not want to burn. Very weak power. It is necessary to take the motor stronger, or put more capacitors.

Under the wagons, a generator with a squirrel-cage rotor is used. Its mechanism comes from a gearbox and a belt drive. Turns of rotation 300 turns. It is located as an additional load generator.

Method 3

You can design a homemade generator, a gasoline power plant.

Instead of a generator, use a 1.5 kW 3-phase asynchronous motor at 900 rpm. The electric motor is Italian, it can be connected with a triangle and a star. First, I put the motor on a base with a DC motor, connected it to the coupling. Started turning the engine at 1100 rpm. There was a voltage of 250 volts on the phases. I connected a 1000 watt light bulb, the voltage immediately dropped to 150 volts. It's probably due to phase imbalance. Each phase must be connected to a separate load. Three light bulbs of 300 watts will not be able to reduce the voltage to 200 volts, theoretically. You can put more capacitor.

The engine speed must be increased, do not reduce under load, then the power supply to the network will be constant.

Significant power is needed, the autogenerator will not give such power. If you rewind a large KAMAZ one, then 220 V will not come out of it, since the magnetic circuit will be oversaturated. It was designed for 24 volts.

Today I was going to try to connect the load through a 3-phase power supply (rectifier). The lights were turned off in the garages, it didn't work. In the city of power engineers, the electricity is systematically turned off, so it is necessary to make a source of constant power supply with electricity. For electric welding there is a hitch, it is hooked to the tractor. To connect an electric tool, you need a constant voltage source of 220 V. There was an idea to design a home-made generator with your own hands, and an inverter to it, but you can’t work on batteries for a long time.

The electricity was recently turned on. I connected an asynchronous motor from Italy. I put it with the chainsaw motor on the frame, twisted the shafts together, put a rubber clutch. I connected the coils according to the star scheme, the capacitors in a triangle, 15 microfarads each. When I started the motors, the power output did not work. I attached a capacitor charged to the phases, the voltage appeared. The engine gave out its power of 1.5 kW. At the same time, the supply voltage dropped to 240 volts, at idle it was 255 volts. The grinder from him worked fine at 950 watts.

I tried to increase the engine speed, but the excitation does not work. After the contact of the capacitor with the phase, the voltage appears immediately. I will try to install another engine.

What system designs are produced abroad for power plants? On 1-phase, it is clear that the rotor owns the winding, there is no phase imbalance, because there is one phase. In 3-phase, there is a system that gives power adjustment when motors with the highest load are connected to it. You can also connect an inverter for welding.

Over the weekend I wanted to make a homemade generator with my own hands with an asynchronous motor connected. A successful attempt to make a home-made generator turned out to be the connection of an old engine with a cast iron housing for 1 kW and 950 rpm. The motor is excited normally, with one capacitance of 40 uF. And I installed three containers and connected them with a star. This was enough to start an electric drill, a grinder. I wanted to get the output of voltage on one phase. To do this, I connected three diodes, a half-bridge. The fluorescent lamps for lighting burned out, and the bags in the garage burned out. I will wind the transformer in three phases.

Write comments, additions to the article, maybe I missed something. Take a look at , I will be glad if you find something else useful on mine.

A pocket flashlight has become an item of equipment for every tourist. Yes, that's the trouble - the energy of the batteries has to be saved. But you can take a power plant with you. It weighs almost as much as a spare 4.5V battery, and it won't take up much more room in your backpack. Let's give a hint: our electric generator homemade camping power station - almost any microelectric motor DC with excitation from permanent magnets, and the energy source is wind.

camping power plant

The principle of operation of a homemade camping power plant - a mini-generator shown in Figure 1. A current generator with a propeller is mounted on a pole. Wires run from the alternator to the bulb. The propeller automatically "follows" the wind with the help of a weather vane - the "tail". The challenge is how to make the power plant as simple and easy as possible. It is also necessary that it can be easily disassembled into parts, and the main components could be repaired or made anew from improvised means right on the campaign.

Let's start with the generator. The easiest way to get microelectric motors of the Moscow plant "Young Technician" type DP-1 or MDP-1. When purchasing them in the store, try to choose those whose rotor rotates easier. The smallest power plant will turn out if you use microelectric motors of the KM USh-a-38 type, which are produced in Germany and are sold here as spare parts for railway models. And if you have the opportunity to use microelectric motors of the PD-3 type (any series), the power plant will turn out to be the most powerful. True, these engines are the heaviest of all named. The main dimensions of all listed engines are shown in Figure 2.

A propeller is needed to rotate the generator. There are many design options. However, for field conditions, a propeller that can be easily removed from the generator shaft, or with folding blades, is preferable. The removable propeller is shown in Figure 3.

It is made from the bottom of a can. A boss, machined on a lathe, is soldered into the center. A hole is drilled in the boss and a thread is cut for the M3 screw. The angle of inclination of the blades is about 30°. The number of blades is from 8 to 12.

The simplest design with folding blades is shown in Figure 4. The blades are made of wire, for example, spring wire, brand OBC, 1-1.5 mm in diameter and wrapped in foil. The pointed ends of the wire are stuck into holes pre-pierced in the rubber stopper. The angle of inclination of the blade is the same as in the first design. The central hole in the boss is best drilled with a drill or on a lathe. A tube of suitable diameter 20-25 mm long should be soldered onto the motor shaft. Drill a hole in the boss with a drill with a diameter of 0.5-1 mm smaller than the outer diameter of the tube. Such blades need to be made with a margin, about five, which will allow you to change the characteristic of the propeller depending on the strength of the wind. If you forget your blades at home, don't despair. They can be cut from a suitable piece of wood (fig. 4a) or even feathers of large birds can be used instead.

The wind is usually capricious and often changes direction. Therefore, complete the set of parts with one more - a weather vane. Its designs are shown in figures 1 and 5.

In a plank (Fig. 5) 200-300 mm long, make a groove according to the dimensions of the electric motor. The engine is attached to it with wire, twine or rubber bands from pharmaceutical bottles. Drill a hole as close as possible to the engine in the center of the plank. Here, on a wire pin with a pointed end, the weather vane will be mounted on a pole. To improve its rotation, insert a tube 30-50 mm long into the hole. Drive a nail into the end of the plank. Attach a “tail” to it: a handkerchief, a long ribbon or a bast, like a kite.

The power plant is ready. If necessary, the power plant can be made to work on the go. True, in this case it is better to use a 1.5 V bulb. It will burn brightly enough even in calm weather if you walk at a fast pace.

There is a pocket power plant business and at home. By replacing the light bulb with a DC ammeter of 1-1.5 A or a voltmeter of 3-5 V, you will get a device for measuring wind speed. True, for this you will have to calibrate the scale of indications.

All materials of the section "Ideas for the master"

Home → Electricity → Homemade small wind turbines →

second part windmill installation, readings and electronics

Mini wind generator from a permanent magnet motor

One of the published publications about homemade wind turbines prompted me to build this wind generator.

From this article, I realized that there is nothing particularly difficult in building a small windmill, the main thing is desire. The idea to provide myself with an autonomous source of energy has been in my head for a long time, and after looking at the experiences of others, I decided to build my own windmill.

Such wind turbines were often made on the basis of small DC motors, from all sorts of scanners, drives, and I decided to repeat these rather successful experiments.

At a price, such a wind generator will cost no more than 2-5 thousand rubles, the main price is an electric motor that will be used as a generator. With economical consumption, you can generate 50-250 W, which is much cheaper than solar panels of similar power.

Here, for those who are interested, is my story about how I built the generator.

To build such windmills, you do not need special tools, but enough that almost everyone has in a garage or pantry. To make my design, I only needed a drill, and a jigsaw with which I cut out the blades, and other trifles (keys, bolts, ruler, tape measure, pencil, etc.) in general, what is usually available or purchased in a store for little money.

I myself have a very modest budget, so I decided to make the cheapest possible wind generator, so I was looking for the simplest and most affordable ways to build my windmill.

For the construction, I used the materials available to the maximum and were idle on my site.

P y P f There is nothing complicated in the manufacture of blades.

How to make a mini wind generator with your own hands?

Usually the pipe is divided into three equal parts along, and sawn. Such material is sawn well enough and it can be sawn even with a hacksaw for wood, but I had an electric jigsaw, which made the task easier, although it is also often sawed with metal blades.

To fix it on the shaft, I used an adapter, this is a special nozzle for attaching discs to the shaft.

In the disk, having previously marked out, I drilled holes for the bolts for attaching the blades and assembled everything into a single structure, below you see what I did. I think that it turned out successfully, reliably, simply and accurately.

Next, it was necessary to fix the generator on something, and for this I used a square segment. I didn’t bother with the mount, but simply pulled the generator to the beam with clamps, additionally wrapping it with a casing from a piece of PVC pipe.

The tail was cut out of an aluminum sheet, and for mounting in the beam, it was cut along two lines into which the tail is inserted and fixed to the bolts through the drilled holes. I used a piece of pipe and a flange as a rotary axis, which I screwed to the beam after drilling the holes.

Below is a photo of an almost finished wind generator, it remains to build a mast and lift it into the wind.

In the course of assembly, all parts were immediately painted with automotive paint in spray cans.

The mast was assembled from water pipes using ready-made adapters, which greatly facilitated the assembly process without resorting to welding or drilling for bolts. During the assembly process, he worked as a mechanic, working with adjustable wrenches, as if assembling a water assembly.

The result is a fairly strong and reliable mast.

Wind generators from car generators

Windmill from an auto-generator with a double stator

Wind generator from "Moto26", made from a car generator with a double stator. The windmill is made to run on a 24 volt battery, with a total power of 300 watts with a wind of 9 m / s. Details and photos in the article.

DIY wind generator

Almost completely self-made wind generator, the generator of which was originally supposed to be from a car generator, but after the case was broken, only the stator remained from the generator, and the case had to be made new. >

Wind generator from an auto-generator from Bull

The generator of this windmill is made from a car generator from the truck Bychek.

The stator is rewound with 0.6 mm wire. The rotor is completely new; >

A simple modification of a car alternator

The simplest conversion of a car alternator to permanent magnets.

The generator for this windmill was made from an autogenerator, the stator of which was not changed, but the rotor was equipped with neodymium magnets. >

Wind turbine generator from auto-generator

How to easily and effortlessly remake an oscillator for a homemade wind generator. For alteration, it is not necessary to rewind the stator, do not sharpen the rotor for magnets.

The whole alteration comes down to switching the phases of the generator, and equipping the rotor with small magnets for self-excitation of the rotor. >

Single blade wind turbine propeller

In continuation of the improvement of the wind generator, this time it was decided to try to make a single-blade propeller and see what advantages it gives and what disadvantages are inherent in single-blade propellers.

The blade with a counterweight is not rigidly mounted and can deviate from the axis of rotation up to 15 degrees. >

Wind generator from tractor generator G700

In this wind generator, a tractor generator with electric excitation is used as a generator.

Let's make an electric generator with our own hands

The generator underwent significant changes, the stator was rewound with a thinner wire, and the rotor coil was also rewound. For this windmill, the screw was made of duralumin. Two-bladed propeller with a span of 1.3 m. >

Homemade wind generator for a yacht

A self-made wind generator, the generator of which is made from the generator of the IZH Jupiter motorcycle, This wind generator was specially created for operation on a small yacht, where it was supposed to provide power for navigational instruments and small electronics.

New-second wind turbine for a yacht

The new wind turbine used a stator from car generator. The power of the new windmill is now greater, the diameter of the propeller has also increased.

Now the wind generator has a new protection against strong winds, now the screw does not go to the side, but capsizes, and the tail does not fold now, in general, the details are in the article.

Windmills flowers from bicycle speakers

Interesting and beautiful windmills, the generators of which are bicycle hub dynamos. They are made in the form of all sorts of flowers, sunflowers, daisies, and painted in the appropriate colors, they look beautiful as a design element.

E-VETEROK.RU wind and solar energy – 2013 Mail: [email protected] Google+

Blade calculation and production

This section contains information about the calculation and production of a wind turbine or wind turbine propeller. Calculation of blades for PVC wind turbines, manufacturing of profiled blades. Combined calculation of propeller power and speed, principles of the wind wheel, and conversion of wind energy into mechanical and then into electrical. Comparison and calculation of various types of wind turbines.

O, screws, multilayer, vertical

Often beginners from wind turbines cannot decide which propeller they need, how much power a particular wind can give. What diameter do I need to screw and how many blades >

An example of calculating blades from PVC pipes in an Excel spreadsheet

Program for calculation of propellers of wind generators from PVC pipes.

Lots of questions about how to use the table and how to calculate blades. To do this, I gave examples in the article calculating the blades and how to use the table. >

Blade calculator

Program for calculation of PVC plates. The program itself is an Excel spreadsheet that displays all the necessary information for a screw.

You need to enter data in the yellow boxes to get the blade coordinates as well as traffic, power, etc. data. >

Multi-screw propeller or small blade

I decided to describe the main differences between multi-turn wind turbines with small blades.

Many people believe that slow-acting multi-stage propellers have an advantage in low winds and high-speed non-foggy strong winds, but this is not the case. >

Blade angle calculation, twisting

Once again in the independent calculation of the blades, this time we calculate the exact angle of the blades from the wind and the required speed.

DIY mini generator

Calculate the blade drilling for a particular generator. In this article, there are several factors that affect the calculations. >

Create a windmill and calculate it in simple words

How to create a wind generator, where to start and what to start when thinking about a future wind generator.

In this article, I described the main provisions of the principles of wind turbines, vertical and horizontal, without formulas. >

How to make blades for a wind turbine

Very often, the blades are made from sewer pipes, and at the same time they do everything with their own eyes, so such slices have a small Kyiv. The article presents examples of calculating blades from a tube with a special program in the form of a high-pressure plate and cutting dimensions for the blade.

Wind wheel calculation, wind generator power

How to calculate the power of a wind generator? - in fact, it's all easier, as it seems, to be the main thing to understand. Formula for calculating the wind force acting on the propeller, plus the KIEV propeller, generator efficiency, wire losses, controller, battery.

Calculation of PVC pipes

The product has many ready-made, calculated screws for choosing a wind turbine. Also spreadsheets. The calculated screws have all the necessary data, including the coordinates of the sample of the cutting blade from the pipe. >

Folding tail calculation

Protect the wind generator from strong winds by moving the windshield in the direction of the rotation axis and folding the tail.

Spreadsheets calculate excel as well as formulas and description of the working principle of this wind turbine hurricane protection. >

Working principle horizontal and vertical

Principles of operation of vertical wind generators of the Savonia type and horizontal wind winds. Description of the influence of the wind, as well as the characteristics and characteristics of the processes that allow the rotation of the wind. >

Calculation of vertical wind turbines

An example of the calculation of vertical wind turbines of the Barrel type for beginners to understand where it starts.

The article provides an example of a general calculation of the power and speed of a wind wheel with 2 * 3 m >

How to make a wind tunnel from a car generator

The article describes in detail the process of manufacturing a fan from a car generator.

Since the generator has been processed to produce a propeller and controller. As a rule, she answers all the basic questions about building wind turbines with her own hands.

E-VETEROK.RU Wind and solar energy – 2013 Mail: [email protected] Google+

DIY vertical wind generator

This is a detailed description of the design of the Savonius rotary type wind turbine, I found this wonderful place here http://mirodolie.ru/node/2372 After reading the material, I decided to write about these projects and how it was done.

How it all started

The idea of building a wind turbine was born in 2005, when a site was purchased from the Mireioli family estate.

There is no electricity, and everyone has solved this problem in their own way, mainly through solar collectors and gasoline generators. When the house was built, this was the first thing to consider and a 120 watt solar panel was received. It worked well in the summer, but in the winter, its efficiency has decreased significantly, and on cloudy days, it is currently 0.3-0.5 Ah, this is not suitable, like the light, barely enough, but It was necessary to feed the laptop and another small electronics.

Therefore, it was decided to build a wind turbine, which will also use wind energy. First, there was a desire to build a glider wind generator. This type of wind is very large, and after a while he spent the Internet in his head and collected a lot of material on the computer on the computer. On a generator generator, sailing wind is quite expensive, so as these small wind turbines are not built and the propeller diameter for wind turbines of this type must be at least five meters.

The big wind generator couldn't pull, but he still wanted to try and create a wind generator with at least some power to charge the battery.

The horizontal propeller of the turbine immediately fell so that they are loud, they have problems with making current rings and protecting the wind turbine from strong winds, and it is also difficult to make the right blade.

I wanted something simple and slow, I watched a few videos online and loved vertical wind turbines like the Savonius.

In fact, they are analogues of the cutting tube, half of which is pushed out from opposite sides. When searching for information, a more perfect form of these wind turbines was found - the Ugrinsky rotor. The regular Savonius has very little WEUC (Wind Power Exploitation), typically only 10-20%, while the Urga rotor has a higher WEUC reflecting the use of the wind power blades.

Below are pictures to understand the robot principle of this rotor

Blade Coordinate Marking Scheme

Rotor Kyiv Ugrynsky reported 46% and therefore no worse than horizontal wind turbines.

Well, the exercise shows what and how.

Blade making.

Before the rotor was launched, the first models were made from two rotor cans.

One of the classic models of Savonia and other Ugrinsky. It was noticed on the models that the Ugrynsky rotor works noticeably at higher speeds compared to the Savonius, and the decision was made in favor of the Ugrynsky. It was decided to create a twin rotor, one on top of the other with a 90° turn to achieve more even torque and better starting.

Materials for the rotor are chosen as the simplest and cheapest. The blades are made of 0.5 mm thick aluminum foil. Three pellets are cut from 10 mm plywood. The balls were towed according to the above drawing and grooves with a depth of 3 mm were made to insert the blades. An assembly of blades made at small angles and tightened with screws. In addition, the adhesive plates for the strength of the entire assembly are attached to the pins at the edges and in the middle, it turned out to be very rigid and hard.

The size of the rotor was 75 * 160 cm, and on rotor materials - about 3600 rubles.

Production of generators.

Before the generation of the generator, there was a lot of searching for the final generator, but there were hardly any sales on them, and what you can order online cost a lot of money. Vertical wind turbines have low speeds and average around 150-200 rpm for this design.

It's hard to find something ready for such twists and turns and not require a multiplier.

In search of information on the forums, it turned out that many generate generators and that there is nothing complicated about it. The decision was made in favor of their own permanent magnet generator. The basis was the classic design of a permanent magnet axial generator in a car hub.

The first order was for neodymium magnetic washers for this generator in the amount of 32 pieces sized 10*30mm.

While the magnets were working, other parts of the generator were made. We calculate all dimensions of the stator under the rotor, which consists of two brake discs from a VAZ car on the rear wheel hub, the windings are wound.

A simple hand tool designed for winding coils. The number of coils is from 12 to 3 per phase, so the generator is three-phase.

DIY mini-turbine (generator)

There will be 16 magnets on the disc rotors and this ratio is 4/3 instead of 2/3 so the generator will be slower and stronger.

Simple machines are made for winding coils.

The location of the stator coils is marked on paper.

The stator is filled with resin from plywood. Before watering, all coils were soldered into a star, and the wires were cut along the cut channels.

Stator coils before overflow.

The fresh stator stocking, before pouring the bottom layer, is a circle of fiberglass, and after laying the coils and pouring epoxy on top, placed in the second circle, it is intended for additional power. Immersion is added to the resin for strength, of which it is white.

Thus, the same resin is filled with water and magnets on the disks.

But the already assembled generator, the base is also made of plywood.

After manufacturing, the generator was immediately washed by hand for current voltage. This was due to the 12 volt battery. The pen was attached to the generator and looked at the other hand and turned the generator, some data was obtained. On a battery at 120 rpm, it turns out that 15 volts 3.5 A, faster to stretch the arm, does not allow strong resistance of the generator.

The maximum error is at a speed of 240 rpm 43 volts.

electronics

The diode bridge consisted of a generator packed in a case, and two instruments were installed on the case: a voltmeter and an ammeter. The same famous electronics was taken with a simple controller for it. The control principle is simple, when the batteries are fully charged, the controller connects an additional load that consumes all excess energy so that the batteries do not overcharge.

The first controller that merges with friends is not suitable enough, so a more reliable software controller has been merged.

Wind turbine installation.

For the wind turbine, there was a strong frame made of 10*5 cm wooden rods.

For reliability, the support rods were excavated 50 cm into the ground, and the whole structure was further reinforced with extensions that were attached to the corners that were driven into the ground. This design is very practical and quick to install, as well as being simpler than being welded. Therefore, it was decided to build wood, but metal is expensive and there is no need to turn on welding anywhere.

There is a prepared wind generator. In this photo the alternator drive is direct and then a multiplier is created which increases the rotation of the alternator.

Generator drive, gear ratio can be replaced by replacing the pulleys.

Later, the multiplier generator is connected to the rotor.

The general wind turbine produces 50W in 7-8m/s wind, charging starts at 5m/s, although it starts spinning in 2-3m/s wind, but the speed is too slow to charge the battery.

In the future, it is planned to raise the wind turbines as described above and process some of the units of the device, while a new larger rotor can be built.

My second wind generator (from car generator)

For the construction of the second wind turbine, I pushed to the prospects of future life in the country. In the cottage, I planned to build a house that I would like to live in (although that happened), but there was no electricity, so I had to think about how to get there and surf the Internet. I found two acceptable options for solar collectors or wind turbine generators, or better both, but it costs a lot of money, so I decided to do everything myself.

Of course, they are not even solar panels, so the circuit board elements are expensive and make the wind farm themselves.

my windmill

Photo of a home fan Preparations for the construction of a wind turbine began with the search for a suitable generator that could deliver energy at low speeds.

The first thing to remember is the car generator as it can be found in any garage. I took a similar oscillator from a car enthusiast and started looking for information on how to adapt it to a wind generator. It turned out that not everything is so simple. Without rewinding and implanting magnets, this generator is not suitable as it runs at high speeds in a car, but without recovery it can only be used with a multiplier.

I decided not to go ahead because it's complicated and will have a lot of head weight and screw size and order neodymium magnets and the stator itself. At the same time that I submitted a topic to one of the wind turbine forums, I began to put together a generator.

In order to process the rotor under the magnets, I ordered an online store of magnets in size 20 * 5 * 5 with a speed of 48pcs, and while they were mail-order magnets, I began to create a new rotor for this purpose, deciding to remove the autochthonous rotary generator, but I will try to knock it out of the bearings i broke the rear bearing seat and then the bent rotor tries to remove the crab from the winding area, in general, all broken, whole just stators.

The stator is from the "classic" with 36 teeth, tooth width 5 mm, stator thickness 25 mm and inner diameter 89 mm.

home generator

Wind Farm Generator Parts I wasn't looking for another generator, but I decided to weld a new stator housing.

An example was welded from a 2 mm thick steel sheet. First, rise 2 cm from the main body of the stator, it is easier to cut eight corners into a mill than into a ball.

He then resolved two 1.5 cm wide strips and pressed them against the stator wire welded to the octagon to remove the slots for the stator installation so that no chipboard would be fixed in the case.

Then he made two flanges of the same 2 mm steel. under 201. Bearings and using a drill where holes are needed to mount these flanges with bearings.

The flanges are specially designed to center the rotor, so you can just weld the rings under the bearing, but they must be centered. The photo is for the bearings, not the flanges but the rings, they had to be cut off because it was impossible to "fine focus" on the knees and I made the flanges.

home rotor

Photo Rotor for the rotor of a domestic generator I did too much, found a metal rod 12 mm thick, just below the 201st bearing bearing to the mounting screw. Under the magnets I needed a 76mm thick metal sleeve, just like the 89mm inside diameter of the rotor minus the magnet thickness = 5mm by 10mm and the gap between the stator and rotor 1.5mm = 3mm.

But under the sleeve I found only part of the 72nd tube, so I had to make a 2mm thick steel ring, drain it and weld it to build up to 76mm thickness.

The cylinder at the barbershop decided to pour the epoxy, so the welding didn't get scared. On the scaffolding, he doesn't let God wrap the welded planks. From the tin, I cut two circles with scissors along the outer diameter of the cartridge body and in the center of the circles under the coat. The pin was inserted into these holes and filled with epoxy. It turned out that the self-rotating rotor I is polished when polished on a grinding wheel.

Yes, the rotor took a long time and it turned out to be wrong and not centered, but I did it without lathes and saved money.

generator

So the generator looks like a merge. When the case was ready and even painted, I took the stator, removed the old windings, and scraped off the old paint from the gutters. After reading the forum, I came to the conclusion that only a three-phase generator needs to be made, which means that three phases must be wrapped. I wanted to buy 200 strands of 0.56mm enameled wire from the locals that run the engines, but he gave me this because it's a 200 gram motorcycle.

And I'm glad I came home to go to the stator.

The stator shakes each coil directly on the tooth, just as random winding of the winding is difficult for me, it is necessary to prepare the coil in the pushing grooves, and if the wind is directly to the teeth, it will be good and vaginal and will become longer. It is used as insulation in ordinary cardboard notebooks. Each tooth included on 33_39 shows 0.56mm wire, shaking each phase, the phase accelerates the transmission of one to two teeth, and then checks that the phase does not wind Koroto-li on the stator and coil instead of dirty epoxy.

Rotor with neodymium magnets

The final rotor with encapsulated epoxy magnet is a three phase resistance 12katushek phase 3.3 ohm. So I have a magnet to a 24polyus rotor, so the ratio of magnets on coils in a 3-phase system is 2/3 where there are two magnets on three coils, for example if the coils have 18 poles. First attached to the rotor magnet 24 with the same distance and filled with epoxy.

Assembled alternator connected to star phase and twisted rotating hand counting speed per second turned 200rpm into 13 volt generator and 2A koe at 300rpm 20 volt and 1A for batteries. The result was nice, but the generator was sticking the magnets to the stator teeth, which prevents the propeller from starting in light wind, and I decided that the tilt of the magnets would be on the rotor.

Converting the rotor to cone magnets

Unpick the magnets and now we will do it with a slope to unpick the magnets, and the slope on an imaginary magnet is refueled and rolled up, the bonding drops by half and is barely noticeable, but the generator has lost about 35% of its power.

I thought he was all going away and he was thinking about the screw but I still have the magnets and I want them to do too much and I was advised to put two magnets in half on the forum and I scratched the rotor again and tried with epoxy resin.

With super glue, I fixed the magnets on the poles and twisted.

The rotor is fully charged with magnets, doubled in power, and the adhesion was not too strong, I measured and showed 0.3 Nm. Now the alternator has started charging at 120 mb/m, at 200 mb/m, the open circuit voltage is about 20V. I refilled the epoxy magnets and with that the generator was finished, I was satisfied, especially because it's better if I don't do this in my case.

Theoretically, the generator output is about 100Wh at 12m/s.

windmill house generator

After the rotor is restored, I again test the generator for voltage and current. Then I started to assemble the wind generator, first I made a rotary axis.

It was made from a single bearing and from a 15th tube with a thread and a nut. The pipe was filled with an epoxy insert inside the bearing, and the bearing was poured onto a piece of 50 mm diameter plastic tubing so that the axis of rotation was released.

From a profile 50 * 25 mm, 60 cm long.

Inner path. How to create a mini generator

I made a beam on which I repaired the generator, tail, and cut a hole to fix the rotary axis. At home, I found five meters of the 50th drug pipeline. Shovels from the first mini-vertebrae. The blades were made from uncalculated tin, and the diameter of the blades with three blades was 1.6 m. The finished windshield was attached to the mast and raised to the wind, connected a small battery and a multimeter. A small wind blew outside, the current jump to 1A, watch, I went to charge, I thought.

The next day, the wind was stronger, the current reached 3A, and the cuts of the blades could not stand it and relied on the drug.

Internal wind generator

Turbines after processing and new blades made of PVC pipes. Then I thought about new knives looking for old forums and websites there are all PVC pipe blades and I found a 110 piece. energy did not increase much and peaked at 5A at 12-15 m / s, then began to deal with knives and undermine the power of the wind turbine.

The forum found PVC bolt calculations, looked at how wind angles were made and new blades were cut. The result was better, but not much, with a light wind, also around 2A, but with a strong one up to 7A.

Generally speaking, the windmill turned out to be weak, which I expected, but it worked, and it was the first charge on a small 9A / h battery, after which I put the battery on 60A / h. The wind generator starts with a wind of about 4 m / s and gives a charge of about 1A, with a small force of 2-3A and a strong wind up to 8A, that is 100 W / h and an average of 20-30 W / h, not much, but not bad for me.

Later, I made him a new 1.7 m diameter three-cut screw from a 160 tube, with which he gave up to 11A on a 12-volt battery, that is, up to 140 W / h. That's why I tried to install a 24-volt battery, current in a strong wind it reached 12A, that is, up to 280 W / h and is on average 20-30 W / h.

And so my other one appeared, stronger than the first wind generator. This wind turbine provided me for more than two months with LED lighting and a portable TV with a netbook and other minorities charging a phone and such. But we have low winds, the average annual level is only 2.4 m / s, and often at given times of the Earth, the battery needs to be landed, so I had to build another wind generator, but more on that in the next article.

In this article, you will learn how to make a 220 V generator with your own hands using a 2-stroke engine. This generator can be used for various purposes, at home for lighting and connecting small loads, in nature, for lighting a tent or find other applications. It does not have large dimensions, and the parts used are not very scarce.

We collect the necessary components, tools

This unit consists of the following parts:

Of the tools we need:

Drill or screwdriver + drills and a cross nozzle for self-tapping screws;
Circular saw or jigsaw (for lovers of manual labor, a hacksaw is suitable);
Voltmeter;
Screwdrivers, pliers, paint knife or scissors;
Angle, tape measure.

The principle of operation of the dynamo generator

The basis of our generator is a DC motor, which is able to operate in the generator mode by converting mechanical energy into electrical energy through the phenomenon of electromagnetic induction. The rotation of the armature in the magnetic field of the primary winding of the DC motor provides the motor from the scythe. When rotating in a DC motor in the generator mode, an alternating EMF is formed, which is converted into a constant voltage through the brush collector.

Let's start assembling the unit

Stage one: we fix the engine from the lawn mower

To begin with, we take a piece of the board and cut it preliminarily to the size of our frame. It is advisable to take heavy material so that our equipment has a solid and reliable foundation.

We mark the position of the engine from the lawn mower. Using a paper template, we mark the holes exactly, drilling them with a drill or screwdriver.

We try on both engines on the bed. We disconnect the fuel tank, and we fix the engine from the lawn mower to the seats.

Stage two: we fix the DC motor

We mark the position of the engine. The distance from both motor shafts must be a few centimeters to avoid friction between them.

We center the shafts of our engines. The divergence in the centers is easiest to correct with some kind of spacers, or simply correct the seat on the wooden frame. You can do this with an ordinary chisel. The less backlash between the shafts, the less vibration from the unit and the wear of the moving part.

We mark the pipes. Most often, motor shafts differ in size diameters. This is also fixable if PVC hoses of different diameters are used as connecting pipes. Their flexibility will help to smooth out the smallest inaccuracy in the alignment of the shafts. In our case, the author used two hoses of different diameters, inserting one into the other.

Having cut off the pipes of the length we need, we put three clamps on both sides, pressing them with a screwdriver.

We fix the DC motor on the self-tapping screws, having previously laid them with washers. We connect the shafts by hand and tighten the clamps with a screwdriver.

Now you can fix the fuel tank. It is not difficult to cope with this task using a long self-tapping screw and a cropped cap from a dowel-nail. Don't forget to connect the fuel lines.

Having started the fuel engine with a starter, we measure the voltage at the output with a voltmeter. With a screwdriver, we adjust the fuel supply, and the number of revolutions, on which the voltage depends. Focusing on the rating of the inverter, we set the output voltage with a small margin.

Stage three: connect the inverter

We fix the previously stripped ends of the cables from the DC motor to the inverter terminals. The power indicator will immediately show the activity of the device.

With a simple control (a light bulb with a piece of cable and a plug at the end), we check the operation of our miracle generator.

To connect the electric motor to the inverter, use the terminals.

Step Four: Engine Stop Button

Since we have a driving motor that creates mechanical rotation, it needs a switch. The off button is included with the device, so it only needs to find a convenient place.

Stage five: we make a casing-frame

We make a protective frame from polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 25-32mm, making holes in the frame with a pen drill.

At the corners we connect it with polypropylene fittings.

If there is no plumbing welding machine, the structure can be connected to a specialized glue for PP pipes.

This frame will also help in carrying the device.

Well, to eliminate noise from the vibration of our device, you can fix 4 thrust bearings on the back of the bed, making them, as shown in the photo, from pieces of an old bicycle camera.

Step Six: Starter Battery

In order not to pull the starter of the fuel engine once again, the author of the video used a lithium polymer battery (LiPo) to briefly start the DC motor. This comparative new device can indeed be powerful, and can withstand a large number of duty cycles with minimal loss of capacitive power. Thus, the fuel engine is started electrically, while its starter remains as a backup option.

We connect the outgoing contacts of the battery to the inverter terminals through the starting toggle switch, tying the loop of wires with nylon ties. The charging socket can be pulled out on the side for convenient connection for charging.

We also fix the fuel engine shutdown button

Stage seven: test run of the unit

After checking all contact groups and fasteners of prefabricated elements, we start the unit. Engine start and stop buttons must work flawlessly. It is worth noting that the starter battery is used for only a few seconds and then turns off.

For continuous and safe operation of the DC motor and inverter, no special conditions are required, except perhaps protection from moisture and power surges.

As for the lithium-polymer battery, it is unacceptable to deeply discharge it (less than 3.3 V) and in no case allow it to overheat above 60 degrees Celsius. Charging of such devices is also carried out by specialized devices that do not allow overcharging, and before using in the cold, be sure to warm up at room temperature.

Fuel engines also need to comply with the rules of operation: the correct selection of a combustible mixture, cleaning of air and fuel filters, preventing engine overheating, etc. In a closed room, the exhaust gases from such an engine must be ventilated.

And the rest, such equipment, assembled by oneself, can last for a long time, supplying precious electricity in the country, fishing or just relaxing outside the city!

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