Wooden wall frame. Installation of drywall on a wooden frame

Various materials are used to work with drywall. The most common method is the installation of profile metal frames, however, wooden structures can also be found quite often.

Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, which is why many people prefer it. It is worth saying that wood is susceptible to climatic influences, biological corrosion and is a fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.

Wood preparation

They make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. Use timber various sections, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of cladding.

Main physical characteristics:

• Humidity from 12 to 18%.
• For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8–3 m, timber with a cross section of 60×50 mm is used for risers and 60×40 mm for sheathing.
• For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8–4.2 m, timber with a cross section of 60×50 mm is suitable for risers and sheathing, and depending on the height, use different thickness sheet: for height 2.8–3 m - 2×12.5 mm, 3.3–3.6 m - 2×14 mm, 3.6–3.9 m - 2×16 mm, 3.9– 4.2 m - 2×18 mm.
• The step between risers in all cases should not exceed 60 cm.
• Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first fire safety group.
• Connections using nails, tenons and self-tapping screws are allowed, with tenons being the most preferred, as they create a rigid and durable connection.
• The thickness of mineral wool sound insulation should be from 50 to 60 mm.
• The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm.
• The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie for several days in the room where it is intended to be installed in order to acclimatize.

Use high-quality lumber that meets moisture and fire safety requirements. Make sure you have certificates about the treatment of the material with fire retardants and passing the relevant examinations.

In addition to fire protection treatment, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.

This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:

• Fungal and mold microorganisms. Wood can serve as a feeding medium for the mycelium of a number of molds, and the wood becomes unusable and destroyed.
• Biological decay. Wood is an organic material that is susceptible to necrobiosis and decay. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
• Carpenter insects. There are many known insects that feed on wood and render it unusable.
• Rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.

Pests can ruin wood in a short time

Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.

It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The limit is 3.5–4%.

Sodium fluoride penetrates well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not provoke metal corrosion, has no odor and is not toxic to humans. Quite a strong antiseptic.

Sodium fluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it into pure sodium fluoride.

The use of oily antiseptics in residential premises is unacceptable:

• creosote;
• coal;
• shale;
• anthracene oils.

These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the house.

Installation of a wooden frame under plasterboard

Tracing the lines connecting the partition to the walls

To draw lines, use the rule

To do this, measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and step back the width of the gypsum board sheet from it.

It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to move it plumb down the wall. To do this, hammer a nail into a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.

• This can be done by constructing the "Egyptian triangle" - right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where 3 and 4 correspond to the legs, and 5 to the hypotenuse. In this case, we place one leg along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of three.
• From the bottom point we build an arc of a circle in the direction perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of four.
• From the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build a circular arc with a radius that is a multiple of five so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
• By connecting the intersection point of these arcs with the original lower point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line on the floor along this perpendicular - the second line of our partition.

We connect two along the ceiling top points on the walls and we get the fourth and last line. Thus, we must draw a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.

Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can use a trick - attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.

Frame installation

As can be seen in the photo, the frame consists of a frame, vertical and horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.

To do this, fasten the bars along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or tenons to ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.

If the building is made of stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use direct hangers or brackets.

We attach solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located against the wall, the bottom beam will be solid and will lie on one side of the opening.

So, we fasten all the bars and use an impact drill with a concrete drill to drill holes in the walls and ceiling.

Doorway

The doorway is formed by double risers

Instructions for installing a doorway with your own hands:

1. To do this, we install two risers on either side of it. The opening width should be 4–5 cm wider door frame.
2. We install risers and strengthen them with additional bars.
3. At the height of the door frame plus 2-3 cm, we install a horizontal jumper, which we connect with two vertical bars to the ceiling rail.
4. Vertical beams give the structure additional rigidity and are needed for joining sheets of drywall.

Racks

To determine the location of the jumper, we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be located at the doorway, and at the place of its edge we fix the jumper so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.

Advice!
To connect beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal plates intended for assembling rafter systems.
These mounts are reliable and designed to withstand significant loads.

Every detail in mandatory We check the level, the racks must be strictly vertical, the jumpers must be horizontal.

Try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.

The work of covering the frame with gypsum board sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.

It should be noted that the price of the profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality lumber is more expensive, so think carefully.

Tool

You will need:

1. hammer;
2. wood hacksaw;
3. screwdriver;
4. impact drill with concrete drill;
5. construction knife;
6. plumb line;
7. level;
8. pencil;
9. roulette;
10. square;
11. crowbar;
12. screwdriver;
13. coated thread;
14. screws;
15. dowels;
16. brackets.

If you don't have an impact drill or screwdriver, you can rent them from a hardware store.

Also do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for sound insulation. You can use thick mats on a mesh so as not to lay the wool in two layers.

Conclusion

Now you know how to assemble a wooden frame for gypsum boards. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website provides detailed photo and video instructions in which you will find the necessary information on this issue. Good luck!

Despite the fact that such building material, like drywall, began to be used everywhere quite recently; it was patented back in the 19th century in America. His first sheets were most similar to Napoleon cake - 10 sheets of paper, glued thin layer gypsum It was invented by the owner of a paper mill.

This “paper” has gained wide popularity these days.

A little about drywall

Modern drywall is complex composite material, consisting of cardboard, gypsum and various additives that give it additional qualities, such as:

• Increased sound insulation.
• Fire safety.

Drywall was once called “dry plaster,” but the name did not stick.

It is used for “dry” finishing of the room. That is, when using drywall, there is several times less dirt than during traditional repair work.

Drywall is available in 3 versions:

• Standard, manufactured without additional additives.

Note!
Panels standard drywall, depending on the thickness, are divided into ceiling and wall.

• Moisture resistant;
• Fire resistant.

IN recent years Knauf, one of the main manufacturers of plasterboard, has released Superpol sheets, which are designed for leveling floor coverings. They have increased strength.

Important!
Drywall is ideal for finishing residential premises, as it is environmentally friendly and does not emit toxic substances when heated.
It has an acidity close to that of human skin and naturally regulates the microclimate in the room.

Modern repair technology cannot do without it. It is thanks to plasterboard that it is possible to build multi-level structures, creating modern design premises.

How to install drywall

Installation of drywall is carried out using frame and frameless methods.

• Frameless— sheets of drywall are attached directly to the walls using special glue.

• Frame— a frame for plasterboard is mounted from galvanized metal profiles of a certain shape or wooden slats, and the sheets are secured to it with self-tapping screws.

Each method of attaching drywall has its strengths and weaknesses.

• Frameless allows you to save room space, but its installation requires level wall coverings and installation work is delayed for a long time due to the fact that before further work you need to wait until the glue hardens.
• The frame mount makes it easy to install thermal insulation and communications, but you have to install sound insulation, and the size of the room is hidden, albeit slightly.

Important!
At frame method Installation of wall scraping for electrical wiring can be avoided. That is, there will be practically no dust during work.

Drywall not only levels walls. When remodeling a room, gypsum plasterboard partitions are the best option. They are lightweight, easy to use and can be covered with anything.

Related articles:

Wooden base of plasterboard partitions

Those who, after installing partitions, want to live in comfort, with good sound insulation, and those for whom one of the main parameters is the environmental safety of the room, decide to make a drywall frame from wood.

In order to extend the life of the structure, the choice of wooden frame parts should be approached with the utmost seriousness.

• The transverse cut dimensions of the selected parts for vertical posts should not be smaller in cross-section than 40x70 mm, for horizontal ones - 30x50 mm.
• All wooden slats are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic - in order to protect against insects, and with a mixture that gives the structure fire safety.

Important!
This procedure is a necessity that will help you save money on repairs in the future.

• The frame is made from trees coniferous species. The humidity of wooden parts should not exceed 15%.

For your information!
Design requirements – first group for fire resistance.

Tools for work

In order to complete the frame manufacturing work, you need to have the following tools on hand:

• Drill.
• Saw or hacksaw.

• Screwdriver.
• Screwdriver.
• Level.
• Mounting dowels.
• Self-tapping screws for wood.
• Metal corners.

Making a partition in an apartment

To make a wooden frame for drywall, you must first prepare an accurate drawing, which will indicate the locations of all doorways.

• When calculating the rigidity of a structure, it is necessary to take into account the number of horizontal elements.
• Counting required quantity sheets of drywall.
• The partition body is assembled. Installation begins with the support beams of the harness. Fastening to the floor and ceiling is done with self-tapping screws and dowels.

• Vertical struts are installed.
• Between vertical posts horizontal support rails are fixed.

The cross-section of the timber of these slats is allowed to be smaller in size than that of the racks, but still not less than 30x50 mm.

Important!
When stitching, sheets of drywall must be offset relative to each other on its opposite walls.

• Insulation and possibly insulated electrical wiring are installed on the partition mounted on one side.
• Sheathing begins on the side where the insulation is attached.

Installation of insulation is necessary to reduce the sound permeability of the structure.

Mineral fiber mats, polystyrene foam of various densities or expanded polystyrene are used as insulation. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and the decision which insulation to use depends on the purpose of the room.

Note!
Mineral wool insulation materials such as basalt or dolomite fiber provide additional protection structures from moisture and reduce the fire hazard of the room.

Length metal dowels for drywall, with the help of which the insulation is fixed, it should be at least 25-30 mm. Otherwise, the design will be unreliable and short-lived.

Wooden frame for wall cladding

It is advisable to install plasterboard on a wooden frame when covering walls if their height is more than three meters or the walls have significant roughness and poor-quality plaster coating.

• The wall is marked for the frame.
• Dangerous areas with weak plaster and unevenness are identified.
• The sheathing is installed in accordance with the measurements taken, starting with a horizontal beam, which is fixed to the floor.

• Vertical slats are mounted to the horizontal beam with a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the sheathing. The step between them is taken to be 600 mm.
• After the verticality of the structure has been checked with a plumb line (level), a second horizontal beam is fixed to the ceiling, to which vertical slats are attached.
• Alignment of the structure uneven floor under a horizontal beam is carried out using a lining of chipboard scraps or wood left over from the slats.

Adviсe:

• In order to avoid making cuts in the drywall when making sheathing near door or window openings, the vertical slats are moved.
• During subsequent sheathing with sheets, there should be no joints above window or door openings.

Installing drywall on a wooden frame with your own hands is not at all difficult, even without a partner. Even easier, if the floors are level, the installation process will not be difficult.

To level or redevelop living space, partitions made of gypsum plasterboard or plasterboard are used. GCRs benefit from brick and block partitions in that they are lightweight, the installation of such structures is quick and simple, and after the work is completed there is little dirt and dust left. GKL and GVL are economical, have good heat and sound insulation.

Types of materials

In addition to standard gypsum plasterboard, there are the following types of material:

• moisture resistant;
• fire resistant;

Moisture resistant used in places with high humidity, fire-resistant is used for other premises (kitchen, office premises).

GCR is excellent for finishing living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the microclimate of the room naturally.

Moisture-resistant drywall

GVL is used for durable structures. These are gypsum fiber sheets that are stronger than plasterboard. GVL is made from building gypsum with additives. GVL – environmentally friendly material for dry construction, it does not have a cardboard shell like drywall. But there are the following disadvantages of using GVL:

• GVL is heavier than gypsum plasterboard;
• costs more.

Characteristics of a wooden frame

GCR fastening to a wooden frame is often used.

A wooden frame is cheaper than a metal frame; it is made from wooden planks and bars; softwood is usually used. Bars with a cross-section of 40*40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where massive objects (mirror or cabinet) will be located on the wall.

Material requirements:

• Wood moisture content ranges from 12 to 18%;
• Fire treatment must comply with the first fire safety group;
• The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.

Before use, wooden slats are processed protective equipment from fire and pests, are examined for the presence of knots and irregularities.

Attaching the base

Screwing parts of drywall onto wooden slats should be carried out in residential and dry buildings. Assemble the frame in accordance with the vertical and horizontal level, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.

Tools for creating a design:

• hammer;
• perforator;
• nails;
• building level;
• self-tapping screws;
• mounting dowels;
• metal corners.

If the design needs additional insulation, then this is done during assembly.

Base fastening technology

Stages of work:

• First, mark the partition on the ceiling using a level, then attach the wooden frame;
• The strapping bars are secured starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, and after that comes the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coverings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws will do). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then fastening is done with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
• Having secured the bars to the ceiling, mark them on the floor (at least three marks) and continue fastening the frame.
• After checking the correspondence of the fastenings relative to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical bars. The distance between them is maintained at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these beams well, since the main load will fall on them.
• After installing the verticals, the racks are secured to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides with 3-4 holes.

Mounting gypsum boards on the base

Sheathing begins from solid sheets or the largest pieces. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the beams every 25-30 centimeters.

Facing

When sheathing with material on only one side, insulation is laid and electrical wiring is pulled before installing the top layer.

During installation of the other side, insulation is laid as necessary. It is better to do without pulling cables; if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.

If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of posts and horizontal lintels.

Tips for beginners:

• When installing the second side of the wall, move the sheet one step so that the structure is strong;
• To avoid problems during fastening, make sure that the gypsum board joints fall exactly in the middle of the vertical posts.

Isolation

Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally insulating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing complicated about this, just lay and secure the material.

Structural insulation

Suitable for this mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polystyrene. The rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.

Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.

Working with uneven surfaces

If suddenly the base is uneven, you should identify the unevenness using a beam. To do this:

• Lay the timber along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
• Vertically lean the rack-mounted timber beam, mark at regular intervals the location of the end behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to install the frame evenly so that the entire structure comes out even.

If you have difficulties with plasterboard sheathing, this video will help:

Advantages of using gypsum plasterboard

This material has a number of advantages compared to other raw materials:

• low cost and assembly costs;
• light weight;
• quick installation;
• better sound and heat insulation;
• Can be used even in freezing rooms;
• leveling walls;
• installation of drywall does not require additional preparation of the base;
• After installation, little debris and dust remains.

If everything is done correctly, in quality finishing touch All that remains is to decorate the wall. And plasterboard structures will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.

gipsohouse.ru

Is it possible to attach drywall to wooden blocks: 7 secrets of good fastening

You can sheathe walls with plasterboard using a frameless connection method or using a supporting frame. Today, any design ideas can be brought to life with such a simple and popular material like drywall. It is now used everywhere: it is used to build interior partitions, trim window slopes, they sheathe the walls inside and out, trim the ceiling, interior is also popular decorative finishing premises. There are several ways to cover walls with plasterboard: frameless joints and the use of a supporting frame. Most often for wooden surfaces the second method is used, and wood is chosen as the frame material.

To ensure that covering walls with plasterboard does not cause problems and pleases the eye for a long time, a number of very important points should be taken into account before starting work.

Features of wooden frame:

1. First of all, you need to know that if you decide to install drywall on a frame made of wooden blocks, then you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which the work will be carried out. Remember that humidity has a detrimental effect on a frame made of wooden slats.
2. Carefully inspect the beams before purchasing: they must be free of cracks, chips and other damage.
3. The wood from which the slats and beams are made must comply with fire safety standards.
4. Before work, the wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: this will increase its service life. It can be anything, but more often it is recommended to use sodium fluoride.

Before covering the walls with plasterboard in wooden house, soak the walls with an antiseptic composition

Wood is an environmentally friendly material that is pleasant to work with.

We install drywall on wooden slats: advantages of the solution

Despite the fact that many builders prefer metal as a base for plasterboard structures, wood also has its obvious advantages, which make a wooden frame a worthy competitor to its metal counterpart!

Advantages of a wooden frame over a metal one:

• Availability of material and its low cost.
• High speed of construction.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Easy to use.

You can install drywall on wooden slats - it’s simple and affordable

Before you start working with wood, the slats will need to be left for several days inside the room where the installation will be carried out to acclimatize.

Finishing walls in a wooden house with plasterboard: preparation for work

In any construction business you cannot do without special tools. To ensure the job goes smoothly, purchase everything you need in advance. What you need when working with drywall is listed below.

Tools:

1. Drill or screwdriver;
2. Hacksaw or jigsaw;
3. Roulette;
4. Marker or crayon.

Before you start finishing the walls, you should prepare necessary materials and tools

Materials:

• Wooden slats and bars;
• Self-tapping screws;
• Metal corners.

Any finishing work begin, first of all, with cleaning work surfaces.

The first thing you need to do is remove the old covering from the walls, the remnants of insulation and sound insulation - in short, any objects that may interfere with the work process.

Before work, the walls must be coated with a special primer to prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

How to sheathe the inside of a wooden house with plasterboard: making a frame

When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden beams.

We remind you that the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent rotting and destruction of the material.

A few tips before work:

1. The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
2. The width of the slats themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be taken into account that in the places where the plasterboard sheets join each other, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
3. It is better to attach the slats directly to wooden wall and among themselves. Self-tapping screws are perfect for these purposes.

You can sheathe the inside of a wooden house using a frame made of wooden beams

The assembly of the frame itself should begin with fastening solid beams along the walls and ceiling. After this, you can begin installing the slats, which will be located vertically. Next, we attach additional horizontal short slats between the vertical beams. The parts of the frame can be fastened together with construction corners and overlays, this will give it additional stability.

When carrying out work, vertical and horizontal slats must be installed strictly level!

After this, if necessary, you will need to align the frame with the wooden wall. This is done as follows: bars are placed in the right places required thickness. After the installation of the frame is completed, you can begin attaching sheets of drywall to the resulting slats and beams.

Plasterboard walls in a wooden house: preparing the material

Before you start attaching sheets of drywall to the frame, they need to be cut. When cutting drywall, be careful and careful, use high-quality tools that will ensure your safety.

To cut drywall sheets you will need:

• Long staff or long level;
• Pencil or marker;
• Sharp knife;
• Roulette.

First of all, measure the required length and width of the plasterboard sheet. Next, use a knife to cut through the first layer of paper and break the plasterboard base of the sheet along the cut line. Then we cut the paper of the sheet on the other side, bending it at an angle of 90°, and sand the uneven ends sandpaper or a file.

Before fastening, plasterboard sheets must be cut

When calculating sheet sizes, you need to take into account that you will place them offset.

Before installation, you may encounter problems such as cutouts. They can be on the edge and in the middle of the sheet. If the cutout is located on the edge, use a jigsaw or hacksaw to cut two lines parallel to each other in the direction opposite to the edge and break the sheet of drywall. To make a cut in the middle of the sheet, you need to saw three lines and break it.

How to level walls with plasterboard in a wooden house: installation of plasterboard sheets on a frame

After preparing the drywall, you can proceed directly to attaching it to the sheathing. To do this, we place the sheet close to the slats and secure them with self-tapping screws. One edge of the sheet should be located as close to the wall as possible. The heads of the screws must be below the level of the sheet.

Important points:

• Screws and self-tapping screws should be made of wood: they are better secured in the wood.
• The edges of the drywall sheets should be in the middle of the spacers.
• If necessary, use an intermediate profile.

You can level the walls in a wooden house using a frame to which sheets of drywall will be attached.

When leveling the walls, monitor the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.

Processing a wall or partition made of plasterboard in a wooden house

After the installation is completed, the connections between the sheets of drywall and the holes from the screw heads should be processed.

For this we need:

• Spatula;
• Special putty;
• Reinforced tape or mesh;
• Electric drill with a nozzle for stirring putty.

To treat walls or partitions in the house you will need putty, reinforced tape, an electric drill and a spatula

You need to start work by preparing the putty mixture. We recommend using a special putty to seal the seams. Also choose a spatula that is convenient for work. It should have a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.

To avoid cracks in the seams, work should be carried out after establishing a constant temperature and humidity in the room.

Ready mixture Apply a spatula to the drywall seams, as if pressing it between them, then cut a piece of tape the right size and glue it onto the finished seam. Process the remaining seams and joints in the same way. To fill a hole from self-tapping screws on drywall, you need to apply a bead of putty to the desired place, smoothing it out different directions. After all necessary processes You can, if you wish, prepare a plasterboard wall for further work. There can be a lot of finishing options, it all depends on your desire, imagination and capabilities.

How to cover walls with plasterboard with your own hands (video)

Practice shows that if you follow certain rules and technology when covering wooden walls with plasterboard, the work will not take much time and will not be difficult. In addition, when installing drywall in timber house on a wooden frame with your own hands, you save significantly family budget.

Interior finishing of a wooden house with plasterboard (photo of the process)

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Installation of drywall on a wooden frame

We will only talk about the longitudinal (vertical) scheme for manufacturing the cladding. The approximate sequence of manufacturing cladding on a wooden frame is as follows:

1. Mark the position of the sheathing bars and cut them to size. When cutting racks, you should subtract the thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars from the length of the wall.

2. Install the racks and the upper and lower horizontal bars.

3. Install short bars above the door and window openings, slightly moving the vertical short bars so as not to make cuts in the drywall.

4. Finish (paste with plasterboard) window and door openings inside. Nailing sheets of drywall onto the walls.

5. Nail sheets around window and door openings.

6. Seal the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls for finishing.

Brick and stone walls are rarely perfectly smooth, so when making plasterboard cladding, all irregularities should be taken into account. The greatest difficulty is in aligning the sheathing bars vertically and horizontally. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, you will not get even and smooth walls.

Installation of the frame at Not flat wall do it like this. First, the unevenness of the wall is identified. The cut out lower horizontal beam of the future frame is placed on the floor near the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Perform markings for the racks in increments of 600 mm. Then press the post beam vertically against the wall and, at regular intervals, mark the position of the end when it goes beyond the line on the floor. Connect the marks with a second line parallel to the first. Attach the support beam to the floor so that its outer edge runs along the outer line of the mark. Install vertical bars to the supporting one, aligning them external surfaces, inserting gaskets if necessary. Evenness is checked by plumb line, level and rule. Fix the horizontal beam at ceiling level. It is more convenient to first install the two outer posts (vertical bars) and stretch the cord between them. Then install the intermediate posts and check the evenness of the installation along the cord. If the floor is uneven, then also place something under the support bar in the right places (so that it is installed at the same level), and then set all the other bars.

To level the racks, scraps of plywood, fiberboard, and wood of the required thickness are used. You can apply a little wood glue to the spacers before hammering them into the bars. Gaskets are also installed in cases where the ends of the block lie tightly on the surface of the wall, and in any of its middle parts there is a gap (concave wall).

When deflecting over a large segment, the pitch between the dowels should be reduced in order to increase the rigidity of the block.

If the room has a flat floor and if its area allows, you can simplify the process of installing the frame. To do this, carefully measure the inner perimeter of the wall. Then a frame is assembled on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm for the length and 5 mm for the height. Insert into the resulting frame load-bearing beams with a pitch of 600 mm, and they are fastened with nails driven through the frame into the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the assembled frame lies with its front side on a flat floor, when assembled it will already have flat surface. Therefore, the stage of leveling each beam is thus eliminated. All that remains is to insert the assembled frame into the perimeter of the wall and, aligning their edges, fix it with dowels and screws or dowel-nails.

Marking for regular (universal, etc.) dowels is done using an electric drill. To do this, the block is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. Having asked a partner to securely hold the block in its original position, drill through holes in it in increments of 800-1000 mm so that the drill makes marks on the wall at the exit. The diameter of the drill should be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws used. After this, the wall is drilled for installation of dowels. The holes of the dowels after their installation will exactly match the holes in the block.

If you have to fasten the bars without a partner, then do this. Find the location of one dowel. Drill a hole in the wall (floor, ceiling) for it, into which a dowel is installed. After this, the block is attached to one dowel and, holding it with one hand so that it does not move, through holes are drilled in the block until a clear mark is obtained on the wall. After this, the block can be removed or simply rotated around the axis of the installed dowel (after unscrewing the screw a little) so that access to the marked places opens. After this, holes are drilled and the remaining dowels are installed.

The most convenient way to fasten the frame to a brick or concrete wall is with dowel nails. The block is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, through holes are drilled in it in increments of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill a hole in the wall. Drill diameter c pobeditovy tip determined by the diameter of the dowel.

The frame is fastened to a wooden wall using long galvanized nails.

Covering the walls of a room with plasterboard can begin either from a corner or from a window or doorway. To fasten the sheathing to a wooden frame, use wood screws 35 mm long with a fastening pitch of 250 mm or galvanized nails (preferably special serrated ones) 40 mm long (for sheets 12.5 mm thick) with a fastening pitch of 200 mm. GKL are attached around the perimeter and to the intermediate posts (see Fig. 47). The distance from the edges is the same - from the edge of the cardboard-lined edge at least 10 mm and from the edge of the unlined edge at least 15 mm. Work is carried out from the corner in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. The nails are driven in until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the nail head nor the screw should tear the paper. Between the sheets of drywall there should be a space of 5-7 mm for finishing the seams. Between floor and end edges plasterboard sheets a gap of 10 mm must be left. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm between the ceiling and the upper end edges of the plasterboard sheets. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws must be puttied and cleaned.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire room in height, during cladding the sheets are placed with adjacent end joints offset (staggered), and transverse beams are installed at the joints.

Source: P. Smirnova - Drywall. Step by Step: Encyclopedia modern renovation

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Wooden frame for drywall - how to assemble it yourself? + Video

A properly made wooden frame for drywall is in no way inferior in reliability load-bearing structure made from metal profiles.

Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) are a fairly complex composite material. It is made from plaster, cardboard and various additives. The latter give drywall special qualities. The main ones are high fire safety and excellent sound insulation. In addition, when using plasterboard, a minimum of dirt and waste is generated. This sets it apart from other construction projects.

Plasterboard sheets are manufactured in three types:

• standard;
• fire resistant;
• moisture resistant.

Types of plasterboard sheets

GCR is used for the construction of partitions in residential and office premises, wall finishing and ceiling surfaces. Some modern manufacturers (for example, KNAUF) have launched in recent years the production of special plasterboard, ideal for finishing floors. Due to the fact that gypsum plasterboard does not emit harmful compounds during operation (the material is considered environmentally friendly) and is characterized by an acidity index approximately identical to the acidity of human skin, it is often used for repair work in residential buildings.

Among other things, drywall is capable of creating optimal microclimate V living rooms. It can naturally regulate the humidity in them. Nowadays, plasterboard sheets are almost indispensable for performing various types repair work. They are made from them simple designs, and luxurious multi-level buildings. Due to this, you can create the most modern, bright and original design.

There are the following technologies for installing plasterboard sheets: frameless and frame. In the first case, sheet products are attached to the wall using an adhesive. The second technology involves the preliminary arrangement of a special frame. Drywall is subsequently attached to it.

The frameless method makes it possible to save room space. Its significant drawback is that installation of gypsum boards is allowed only on a flat wall. But using the frame method, drywall can be attached to surfaces that have bulges and depressions. But at the same time, the total volume of the room becomes smaller.

Frameless method of installing gypsum boards

Frame technology Installation of gypsum boards means a minimum of construction dust. You do not need to make grooves in the wall to lay electrical wiring and other household communications; all systems are placed in the free space between the skeleton of the structure and the wall surface.

The frame for the subsequent installation of plasterboard sheets on the wall can be easily built with your own hands. A home craftsman with minimal experience in carrying out repair activities will build a skeleton for a plasterboard in a matter of hours. And then he will also quickly attach drywall to a self-made structure.

In most cases, the frame is made of metal profile products. But there is a technique that is easier to implement. It makes it possible to build skeletons for gypsum boards from lightweight and easy-to-install wooden products (slats, beams). We will talk about this method of creating a frame structure for drywall with your own hands.

It is recommended to build the frame for attaching gypsum boards to the wall from coniferous wood. In this case, the wood must have a moisture content in the range of 12–18%, and also undergo a special fire retardant treatment at the manufacturer of beams or slats. It is also recommended to additionally apply antiseptic agents to wooden products. This treatment will protect the frame from:

• rodents (the smell of antiseptic is good at repelling mice and other living creatures that can damage the structure);
• mold and fungal microorganisms that destroy wood;
• wood-boring insects;
• biological natural decay.

You can do antiseptic protection of wood yourself. For these purposes, you can use sodium fluoride. It is sold as a light gray fine powder. You will need to stir the purchased mixture in well-heated (but not boiling) water (35–40 g of the drug per 1 liter of liquid). Then treat all elements of the future frame for drywall with the resulting composition.

Sodium fluoride for antiseptic protection of wood

Fluoride antiseptic easily penetrates into wooden products and is practically not washed out of them. It is important that it is non-toxic to humans, has no odor, and does not decompose during use. Working with such a composition is simple and safe. An almost complete analogue of fluoride is sodium fluoride. It is allowed to purchase such a drug. But before use you should add a little soda ash (soda ash).

It is impossible to carry out antiseptic treatment of wood with compositions containing the following components:

• anthracene oils;
• coal;
• creosote;
• slate.

The effect of their use will be good. But they are harmful to human health, as they are recognized as toxic substances. Advice from the pros! Before arranging the frame for installing drywall on the wall, be sure to give wooden products rest in the room where you will build the structure. In 48–72 hours the wood will fully adapt to humidity and temperature conditions. This process in the language of specialists is called tree acclimatization.

The structure we are interested in is made of wooden blocks or slats different sections– from 3x5 cm to 5x6 cm. Specific dimensions of lumber are selected taking into account the expected load on the frame. All work is carried out using the most common construction tools– hacksaws or saws, electric drills, screwdrivers, screwdrivers, level. Drywall screws, stainless steel screws and nails, and mounting dowels are used as fastening elements.

Important point! GCR is mounted on frame structure in cases where wall surfaces are characterized by poor-quality coating (plaster or other) and significant roughness. It is also advisable to install such a structure when finishing walls in rooms with a height of 3 meters or more. Implementation adhesive technology installing gypsum boards with your own hands in such high rooms is considered impractical by professionals.

Installation of gypsum boards on a frame structure

A wooden frame on the wall is created according to the following scheme:

1. Analyze the condition of the wall surface. Fill any irregularities found with putty (plaster), and clean areas with peeling old coating.
2. Mark the wall. Carry out this operation with strict adherence to levels and angles (use measuring instruments).
3. The horizontal beam is installed first. It should be fixed to floor base anchors.
4. Attach vertically to installed beam wooden slats. They should be approximately 1 cm from the edge of the sheathing. The distance between individual vertical elements is 60 cm.
5. Check with a level that the slats are positioned correctly.
6. Install the second horizontal element on the ceiling.

Before proceeding with the installation of gypsum boards, the frame should be leveled. If the floors in the room are uneven, the correct position of the horizontal beam can be set by placing pieces of wood or scraps of wood chips under it. After aligning the skeleton, firmly fasten all its parts. That's the whole technology for assembling a wooden frame on the wall. Feel free to start installing gypsum boards on your hand-made skeleton.

Installation of plasterboard sheets should begin from the window or doorway of the room or from its far corner. The gypsum boards are secured with wood screws. The installation step for hardware is 25 cm. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws no longer than 3.5 cm.

Installing plasterboard sheets on a wooden frame

Important note: if you are installing moisture-resistant sheets, it is better to secure them to the frame with serrated galvanized nails. Place the first self-tapping screw (nail) at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the uncoated edge of the gypsum board (1 cm from the lined one). Another subtlety of the work is that when fixing drywall, it is necessary to move from one edge of the sheet to the other. In this case, the installation of products is carried out end-to-end. Special edges are provided on the end parts of the gypsum boards. Using them, you can subsequently easily fill in the gaps between the products (first prime them and then treat them with putty).

How to properly cover walls with plasterboard

We will only talk about the longitudinal (vertical) scheme for manufacturing the cladding. The approximate sequence of manufacturing cladding on a wooden frame is as follows:

1. Mark the position of the sheathing bars and cut them to size. When cutting racks, you should subtract the thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars from the length of the wall.

2. Install the racks and the upper and lower horizontal bars.

3. Install short bars over door and window openings, slightly moving the vertical short bars so as not to make cuts in the drywall.

4. Finish (paste with plasterboard) window and door openings inside. Nailing sheets of drywall onto the walls.

5. Nail sheets around window and door openings.

6. Seal the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls for finishing.

Brick and stone walls are rarely perfectly smooth, so when making plasterboard cladding, all irregularities should be taken into account. The greatest difficulty is in aligning the sheathing bars vertically and horizontally. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, you will not get even and smooth walls.

Installation of the frame on an uneven wall is done as follows. First, the unevenness of the wall is identified. The cut out lower horizontal beam of the future frame is placed on the floor near the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Perform markings for the racks in increments of 600 mm. Then press the post beam vertically against the wall and, at regular intervals, mark the position of the end when it goes beyond the line on the floor. Connect the marks with a second line parallel to the first. Attach the support beam to the floor so that its outer edge runs along the outer line of the mark. Install the vertical bars on the support, leveling their outer surfaces, inserting spacers if necessary. Evenness is checked by plumb line, level and rule. Fix the horizontal beam at ceiling level. It is more convenient to first install the two outer posts (vertical bars) and stretch the cord between them. Then install the intermediate posts and check the evenness of the installation along the cord. If the floor is uneven, then also place something under the support bar in the right places (so that it is installed at the same level), and then set all the other bars.

To level the racks, scraps of plywood, fiberboard, and wood of the required thickness are used. You can apply a little wood glue to the spacers before hammering them into the bars. Gaskets are also installed in cases where the ends of the block lie tightly on the surface of the wall, and in any of its middle parts there is a gap (concave wall).

When deflecting over a large segment, the pitch between the dowels should be reduced in order to increase the rigidity of the block.

If the room has a flat floor and if its area allows, you can simplify the process of installing the frame. To do this, carefully measure the inner perimeter of the wall. Then a frame is assembled on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm for the length and 5 mm for the height. Bearing beams are inserted into the resulting frame in increments of 600 mm, and they are secured with nails driven through the frame into the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the assembled frame lies with its front side on a flat floor, when assembled it will already have a flat surface. Therefore, the stage of leveling each beam is thus eliminated. All that remains is to insert the assembled frame into the perimeter of the wall and, aligning their edges, fix it with dowels and screws or dowel-nails.

Marking for regular (universal, etc.) dowels is done using an electric drill. To do this, the block is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. Having asked a partner to securely hold the block in its original position, drill through holes in it in increments of 800-1000 mm so that the drill makes marks on the wall at the exit. The diameter of the drill should be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws used. After this, the wall is drilled for installation of dowels. The holes of the dowels after their installation will exactly match the holes in the block.

If you have to fasten the bars without a partner, then do this. Find the location of one dowel. Drill a hole in the wall (floor, ceiling) for it, into which a dowel is installed. After this, the block is attached to one dowel and, holding it with one hand so that it does not move, through holes are drilled in the block until a clear mark is obtained on the wall. After this, the block can be removed or simply rotated around the axis of the installed dowel (after unscrewing the screw a little) so that access to the marked places opens. After this, holes are drilled and the remaining dowels are installed.

The most convenient way to fasten the frame to a brick or concrete wall is with dowel nails. The block is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, through holes are drilled in it in increments of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill a hole in the wall. The diameter of the drill with a Pobedit tip is determined by the diameter of the dowel.

The frame is fastened to a wooden wall using long galvanized nails.

Covering the walls of a room with plasterboard can begin either from a corner or from a window or doorway. To fasten the sheathing to a wooden frame, use wood screws 35 mm long with a fastening pitch of 250 mm or galvanized nails (preferably special serrated ones) 40 mm long (for sheets 12.5 mm thick) with a fastening pitch of 200 mm. GKL are attached around the perimeter and to the intermediate posts (see Fig. 47). The distance from the edges is the same - from the edge of the cardboard-lined edge at least 10 mm and from the edge of the unlined edge at least 15 mm. Work is carried out from the corner in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. The nails are driven in until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the nail head nor the screw should tear the paper. Between the sheets of drywall there should be a space of 5-7 mm for finishing the seams. A gap of 10 mm must be left between the floor and the end edges of the plasterboard sheets. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm between the ceiling and the upper end edges of the plasterboard sheets. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws must be puttied and cleaned.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire room in height, during cladding the sheets are placed with adjacent end joints offset (staggered), and transverse beams are installed at the joints.

– a popular type of finishing work due to the versatility of the building material. Basically they are mounted on. Drywall on wooden slats is the second most popular installation method.

Wooden slats can be used when installing partitions, walls and ceilings

Despite the development construction market, traditional ecological clean materials remain in demand. If brick or foam block is used for the house, then the bathhouse will definitely be made of timber. For such buildings, it is logical to install drywall on wooden slats.

In utility rooms with niches, on loggias there are pieces, their assembly is difficult in cramped conditions. It is much more convenient to cut the bars. Wood has low thermal conductivity, so it will be warmer on the balcony. As you can find out on our website. Lathing can be done different depths and select the beam according to the width. It has the required thickness.

In a private house with subsidiary farming there will be a supply of wood. From it you can cut a beam for a frame of the required size. The wood is easy to process and convenient to fit small sizes.

Wooden blocks are easy to process and convenient to adjust to small sizes

On drywall with a wooden base you can. The profile frame is reinforced with timber, attaching it inside the planks..

And finally, it will cost less than a profile.

Design disadvantages

The disadvantages include:

1. Afraid of increased dampness. Therefore, in the bathroom, rooms with unstable temperature conditions not recommended to install wooden base under gypsum board. Special impregnations can increase resistance to moisture and prevent the formation of mold and mildew.
2. Wood is a living material; under unfavorable conditions it shrinks and can lead. To prevent this from happening, be sure to choose dry timber (14-16% humidity). Before installation, it must rest indoors for at least a week.
3. Wood is heavier than metal profiles - take into account the loads, especially when assembling ceiling structures.

Remember that even after processing special impregnations, wood is highly flammable.

Design modeling, marking

Before you begin installing the frame made of slats, you need to draw its diagram and make a preliminary calculation.

Diagram, material calculation

Measure the surface area of ​​a wall, ceiling or partition:

1. Standard sizes of bars: 50 x 50 mm, 50 x 40 mm, 50 x 70 mm. For partitions: 80 x 80 and 100 x 100 mm.
2. Calculate the length of the guides running along the perimeter of the surface.
3. The pitch between vertical bars is from 400 to 600 mm. There are 2-3 slats per sheet of drywall ( standard width 1 200, height 2 500 mm).
4. Then the jumpers are drawn and counted, the standard distance between them is 600 mm.

Read also

Connecting profiles for plasterboard

To calculate the linear footage, count the number of racks with jumpers and multiply them by the length.

Appearance of a wooden frame with designation of component elements

Pay attention! A reinforcing box is additionally installed around window and door openings. It also needs to be taken into account when designing.

Fasteners

To work you will need:

• screws or press washers for wood (20-40 mm);
• metal corners (for connecting jumpers and rack strips);
• dowel-nails (for mounting the frame to the wall).

To determine the amount of building material, you need to divide the surface area by the area (2.5 x 1.2 m).

Advice. Purchase building materials with a 15-20% reserve, taking into account substandard waste.

Marking

Planning is carried out in three stages:

1. The surface of the floor and ceiling is rarely perfectly flat, so first determine the lowest point in the corners of the room. It is measured using a tape measure.
2. They mark the horizon along the border of the entire room. In small rooms (up to 20 sq. m.), a building level or hydraulic level is used. Marking is conveniently carried out using an electronic tape measure with manual level adjustment. To do this, it is fixed at the lowest point in the corner of the room. Place a laser mark at a distance of 5 cm from the floor and ceiling. Make marks along it, then draw a line. You can also use a chop cord.
3. Mark the location of the rack beam along the horizon line (with a distance of 40-60 cm).

Installation

Before starting work, the timber is treated with a deep penetration protective compound to improve moisture resistance. Start after the impregnation has completely dried.

During the work you will need the following tools:

• drill with chipper, screwdriver;
• building level, tape measure;
• plumb line and square;
• under electrical points.

Each stage of marking and connection is checked using a level or a construction angle.