Is it possible to fix drywall on a wooden beam. How to install a wooden frame under drywall

Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame produced only in rooms with low or normal humidity. The technology of wall cladding on wood cannot be attributed to outdated technologies. It is actively promoted by the company Knauf and is recommended for wooden and brick houses of individual construction.

Wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame - disadvantages

Wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame has a number of disadvantages.

• The frame is made of wooden beams, subject to decay. Over time, such wood cladding begins to warp and violate its integrity.
• For the frame, you need to look for only a dry and absolutely even timber. And such a bar is not only hard to find, but also its considerable cost.

Despite the shortcomings, wall cladding on a wooden frame, both used and used, to this day. Needless to say, this is a rarity.

Preliminary work

• Before facing the wall, lay all utilities on the lined wall, namely, lay electrical wiring under the drywall and / or plumbing in the drywall structure (if any).
• Wiring can be laid openly, in a corrugation or a box. Then, when installing the frame, it will be necessary to cut out places for electrical wiring and / and water pipes in the bars of the frame.

To work at height, you can use construction towers-tours. They are easy to assemble and disassemble. They create a convenient high-altitude platform, are easily transferred from place to place. For example, ARIS prefabricated towers up to five meters high are assembled by one person in 20-30 minutes. You can see the ARIS tower tours.

Frame manufacturing

• For the frame, a dry, even beam measuring 50 × 25 and 75 × 25 mm is used.
• The 75x25mm beam should hit the edge of the gypsum board, and the 50x25 beam should support the sheet over the surface.
• The timber frame is attached directly to the wall of the room. For fastening, nails are used (if the wall is wooden or plaster) or a dowel - nails (if the wall is concrete) or plastic dowels and screws (if the wall is brick).

• If fastening standard drywall fasteners are used. Fasteners are made on dowels and screws, then the holes for fastening are drilled in advance. The distance between the fasteners is 500 mm.
• When fastening on dowel-nails, the beam is drilled together with the wall and the dowel-nail is hammered into the hole. The distance between them is also 500 mm.
• First, horizontal bars are attached, near the ceiling and near the floor. After fixing them, we move on to vertical racks. The first beam is attached to the corner.
• For convenience and correct calculation, bars are first attached, which will fall on the edge of the drywall sheet. Their size is 75×25 mm. Since the width of the gypsum board is 1200 mm, the step between the bars should be 1200-1205 mm (with a single-layer cladding).

• With a two-layer cladding, the number of bars 75 × 50 is doubled, and the second layer of drywall is attached to the frame with an offset of half the sheet, both vertically and horizontally.
• Of course, you can not bother with buying different timber and for simplicity, buy a bar of the same size: 75 × 25 mm.
• After fixing these bars, bars of 50 × 25 mm are attached between them. The step between them is 400 mm. With a two-layer cladding, the step between the uprights increases to 600 mm and their number decreases.

Wood frame processing

The finished wooden frame must be treated with an antiseptic composition. This treatment will increase the life of the frame and save it from decay.

Wood frame insulation

Before fixing drywall, you need to insulate the wooden frame. For insulation and simultaneous sound insulation, mineral wool-based heaters or polystyrene foam slabs or basalt slabs are used.

Plates are laid between vertical bars.

Frame vapor barrier

After laying the heat insulator, the frame must be closed with a vapor barrier film. The film should cover the entire frame structure. The vapor barrier is nailed to the bars with staples with a construction stapler.

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After fixing the vapor barrier, you can proceed to fixing drywall.

Fastening drywall sheets to a wooden frame

When attaching drywall sheets, the following rules are observed:

• There should be a distance of 10 mm from the sheet to the floor and ceiling.
• The distance between the sheet fixing screws must be 250 mm.

• Some experts believe that a distance of 5 mm should be left between the sheets. It's too much. For puttying joints, it is better to buy a sheet of drywall with a thinned edge (UK) or make a chamfer on the edge of the sheet manually.
• With a two-layer cladding, the sheets of the two layers are displaced both vertically and horizontally. The distance between the wooden posts is 600 mm, which corresponds to half of the plasterboard.

To maintain a 10 mm gap between the floor and the sheet, prepare the pads under the sheet in advance.

Technology for attaching a sheet to a wooden frame

• Lay 10 mm of lining on the floor near the frame.
• Bring the sheet of drywall up to the frame, lay the edge of the sheet on the spacer and lift the sheet.
• Fasten the sheet with TB type screws with a drill on the end. Distance between screws 250 mm.

Of course, a strip will remain on the wall, on which neither half nor a full sheet of drywall will fit. In this case, cut the drywall sheet to size and attach it to the frame. When attaching drywall sheets, do not forget about the electrical wiring in the structure. Immediately cut round holes in the sheets for mounting boxes for hidden sockets, or simply lead the wires out from under the cladding to install surface sockets.

That's all! Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame is completed.

Despite the fact that such a building material as drywall began to be used everywhere quite recently, it was patented back in the 19th century in America. Its first sheets were most similar to the Napoleon cake - 10 sheets of paper glued with a thin layer of plaster. It was invented by the owner of a paper mill.

Such "paper" has gained wide popularity in the present day.

A little about drywall

Modern drywall is a complex composite material consisting of cardboard, gypsum and various additives that give it additional qualities, such as:

• Increased sound insulation.
• Fire safety.

Drywall was once called "dry plaster", but the name did not stick.

It is used for "dry" finishing of the room. That is, when using drywall, there is several times less dirt than with traditional repair work.

Drywall is available in 3 versions:

• Standard, made without additional additives.

Note!
Panels of standard drywall, depending on the thickness, are divided into ceiling and wall.

• moisture resistant;
• Fire resistant.

In recent years, Knauf, one of the main manufacturers of drywall, has released Superpol sheets, which are designed to level floor coverings. They have increased strength.

Important!
Drywall is ideal for finishing residential premises, as it is environmentally friendly and does not emit toxic substances when heated.
It has an acidity close to the acidity of human skin and naturally regulates the microclimate in the room.

Modern repair technology cannot do without it. It is thanks to drywall that it is possible to build multi-level structures, creating a modern interior design.

How to install drywall

Drywall installation is carried out using frame and frameless methods.

• frameless- sheets of drywall using special glue are attached directly to the walls.

• frame- a frame for drywall is mounted from galvanized metal profiles of a certain shape or wooden slats, and sheets are already fixed to it with self-tapping screws.

Each method of fixing drywall has its own strengths and weaknesses.

• Frameless allows you to save room space, but its installation requires even wall coverings and installation work is delayed for a long time due to the fact that before further work you need to wait until the glue hardens.
• Frame fastening makes it easy to install thermal insulation and communications, but you have to install sound insulation, and the size of the room is concealed, albeit slightly.

Important!
With the frame method of installation, wall scraping for electrical wiring can be avoided. That is, there will be practically no dust during work.

Drywall not only level the walls. When redevelopment of the premises, partitions from GKL are the best option. They are lightweight, easy to use and can be lined with anything.

Related articles:

Wooden base of plasterboard partitions

Those who, after installing partitions, want to live in comfort, with good sound insulation, and those for whom one of the main parameters is the environmental safety of the room, decide to make a frame for drywall from wood.

In order to extend the life of the structure, the choice of wooden frame parts should be approached with all seriousness.

• The cross-sectional dimensions of the cut of the selected parts for vertical racks should not be less than 40x70 mm in cross section, and 30x50 mm for horizontal ones.
• All wooden slats are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic - in order to protect against insects, and a mixture that gives the structure fire safety.

Important!
This procedure is a necessity that will help you save money on repairs in the future.

• The frame is made from coniferous trees. The moisture content of wooden parts should not exceed 15%.

Note!
Design requirements - the first group of fire resistance.

Tools for the job

In order to carry out the work on the manufacture of the frame, you must have the following tools at hand:

• Drill.
• Saw or hacksaw.

• Screwdriver.
• Screwdriver.
• Level.
• Mounting dowels.
• Wood screws.
• Metal corners.

Making a partition in an apartment

To make a wooden frame for drywall, you must first prepare an accurate drawing, which will indicate the locations of all doorways.

• When calculating the rigidity of the structure, it is required to take into account the number of horizontal elements.
• The required number of drywall sheets is calculated.
• The partition body is assembled. Installation begins with the strapping support bars. Fastening to the floor and ceiling is carried out with self-tapping screws and dowels.

• Vertical struts are installed.
• Horizontal support rails are fixed between the vertical posts.

The cross section of the beam of these rails is allowed to be smaller in size than that of the racks, but, nevertheless, not less than 30x50 mm.

Important!
Sheets of drywall during sewing must be shifted relative to each other on its opposite walls.

• A heater is installed on the partition mounted on one side, and possibly insulated electrical wiring.
• Sheathing begins on the side from which the insulation is fixed.

Installation of insulation is necessary to reduce the sound permeability of the structure.

As a heater, mineral fiber mats, polystyrene foam of various densities or polystyrene foam are used. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and the decision which insulation to use depends on the purpose of the room.

Note!
Mineral wool insulation materials, such as basalt or dolomite fiber, provide additional moisture protection to the structure and reduce the fire hazard of the room.

The length of metal dowels for drywall, with which the insulation is fixed, should be at least 25-30 mm. Otherwise, the design will be unreliable and short-lived.

Wooden frame for wall cladding

It is advisable to install drywall on a wooden frame when cladding walls if their height is more than three meters or the walls have significant roughness and poor-quality plaster coating.

• The wall is marked under the frame.
• Dangerous places with weak plaster and irregularities are identified.
• The crate is installed in accordance with the measurements taken, starting with a horizontal beam, which is fixed to the floor.

• Vertical slats are mounted to the horizontal beam with an indent of 10 mm from the edge of the crate. The step between them is taken 600 mm.
• After the verticality of the structure is checked by a plumb line (level), a second horizontal bar is fixed to the ceiling, to which vertical slats are attached.
• Alignment of the structure on an uneven floor under a horizontal beam is carried out by lining chipboard scraps or wood left over from the slats.

Adviсe:

• In order not to make cuts in drywall, when making a crate near door or window openings, the vertical slats are shifted.
• During the subsequent sheathing with sheets, there should be no joints above window or door openings.

Installing drywall on a wooden frame with your own hands is not at all difficult, even in the absence of a partner. Even easier, if the floors are even, the process of such installation is not difficult.

Partitions made of drywall are often used for overdue redevelopment of an apartment or house, introducing something new and unusual into their design or interior. For this, they have all the advantages: their device and installation with their own hands are simple, and even an inexperienced, novice home master can handle this technology. They are cheap to install and after finishing they are indistinguishable from the main walls of the apartment.

Such partitions also have disadvantages. But they can be dealt with. For example, the insufficient mechanical strength of the partition can be significantly increased if gypsum-fiber sheets are used instead of conventional drywall or the structure is strengthened by lining the frame with several layers of drywall. And in wet rooms, when constructing partitions, waterproof drywall is used.

But no matter what partition you decide to build in your apartment, remember that the introduction of a new element into the layout must necessarily be agreed with the housing inspection authorities.

Plasterboard partitions, like plasterboard wall cladding, are usually made on a wooden or metal frame. The metal frame is more reliable, more technologically advanced, and when using it, it is possible to arrange complex structures that are more difficult to make on a wooden frame. But, in turn, working with a wooden structure is more familiar and it will cost less.

Lumber for the frame partitions use coniferous species. All its elements must be treated with special fire and bioprotective impregnations before installation.

The material for the frame is chosen, guided by the parameters of the future partition: the higher and longer it is, the larger the section of the frame elements should be. For a partition frame with dimensions of 2.5x (4-5) m, you can take bars with a section of 60 × 80 mm.

The partition frame consists of strapping, racks, as well as horizontal jumpers, usually installed at the joints of drywall sheets. The design can be supplemented with more powerful racks and lintels in doorways, lathing, etc. To improve sound insulation properties, and in country houses - for thermal protection, the frame during the manufacture of partitions is filled with sound and heat insulating materials. In temporary residences, the insulation is additionally protected by moisture and vapor protective films.

Partition frame installation.

This work begins with the installation of the strapping. Strapping bars are attached to the floor, ceiling and walls. If the floors are wooden, the task is simplified, since ordinary nails are enough to fasten the bars. With a timber thickness of 60 mm, nails 100 mm long are enough. If the walls are concrete or brick plastered, the strapping is fastened with dowel-nails to the wall and floor and with anchors to the ceiling.

Also read on the topic: You should start work with a ceiling beam. Having outlined the boundaries of the partition on the ceiling, the beam is screwed or nailed to the ceiling, after which the location of the lower strapping beam is marked. They do this with a plumb line, a rule with a level, or more modern tools, such as a laser level.

When using traditional tools, at least three marks must be made along the length of the partition - at each of the walls and in the middle. When the marks are made, the lower beam is attached to the floor along them and once again the correctness of its location relative to the upper beam is checked. After that, vertical strapping bars are installed on the walls, connecting the floor and ceiling bars.

Since the main load from the future partition falls on the strapping, it is necessary to fasten it as reliably as possible - with a fastening step of no more than 40 cm. But before you fasten the beam, you need to make sure that the walls themselves are strong. If the walls are made of not very strong materials (cellular concrete, gypsum), dowels of the maximum size are needed and it may be necessary to replace the dowel-nails with specialized dowels that are designed for use with specific building materials. In extreme cases, you can get by with wooden plugs, which are driven into prepared holes and then screws are screwed into them. This method is old, one might say - old-fashioned, but proven.

Another way to fasten the strapping is using direct hangers used in the installation of metal frames. If the walls are sufficiently strong and smooth (for example, concrete), then this is the most convenient and fastest way to fasten the timber.

After the frame of the structure is in place, and checked for verticality, it's time to put the racks. For them, a beam of the same section is used as for tying the frame.

Racks are usually placed in increments of 60 cm. With this step, each drywall sheet (with a standard sheet width of 120 cm) is mounted on three racks.

Racks can be mounted in several ways. The simplest is with the help of sawn wooden bars, which are fastened with screws to the vertical stand itself and to the harness. A more reliable way is to fasten the rack with metal corners, which can be easily made from direct hangers or purchased ready-made.

Horizontal jumpers are also cut out from the same beam. They are fastened by passing a self-tapping screw directly through the vertical posts on one and the other side of the jumper. You can strengthen the connections with metal corners.

If a doorway is provided in the partition, then it is framed with additional racks and a horizontal lintel. They are made from a bar of the same section as the entire frame, or a little larger. The bottom of the door frame is formed either by a strapping frame, or, if there is no need for a threshold, part of it is carefully cut out in the opening, and the edges are additionally fixed with dowel-nails.

It is quite difficult to lay engineering communications in a partition of this type. If, nevertheless, it is necessary to lay, for example, electrical wiring in it, then in the racks you have to drill holes of the desired diameter. At the same time, it is advisable to remember that the cable is laid for safety in pipes - rigid or corrugated, or in tin boxes.

Partition cladding.

When the frame is ready, you can start lining it with drywall. Fasten the sheets with screws with a wide hat. It is first necessary to develop a cladding scheme in which the sheets will have to be cut the least.

It is better to cut sheets in such a way that they do not fit over window and door openings - this can lead to chipping of the edges of the sheets. Where this cannot be avoided, an additional bar is placed at the junction, to which the edges of the sheets are attached.

Do-it-yourself insulation installation

If the partition is supposed to use heat and sound insulation, then its installation is started after the partition is lined with drywall on one side.

There are many insulation materials on the market today.

Both foam and mineral wool materials are well suited.

The chosen spacing when installing the racks corresponds to the standard width of many insulating materials, which makes it easier to work.

Rigid panels are best glued to the inside of the already installed drywall. If at the same time small cavities remain between the plates, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of foam and mineral wool materials gives a good soundproofing effect.

When sheathing a partition with drywall on the second side, it must be remembered that in order to avoid cracking of the frame racks, when screwing in a large number of screws at the joints, the joints of the sheets must be separated from the joints of the already mounted cladding, shifting them one step to the right or left.

It must also be remembered that a gap of approximately 3-4 mm should remain between the upper edge of the sheet and the ceiling, which will protect the upper edge from chipping. This gap is subsequently closed with a ceiling plinth.

Sheathing of the frame must be performed sequentially from one edge. Screws must be screwed into the racks of the frame perpendicular to the surface of the skin.

Such a partition is the simplest, but despite this it is sufficiently durable and has good soundproofing properties. Its disadvantage is a small thickness, which makes it difficult to lay communications inside the partition.

Extended partitions with your own hands.

The design of partitions on a double wooden frame allows you to solve the problem of laying engineering communications inside the partition and even installing water heating batteries in them. In width, such partitions are much superior to those discussed above.

For the installation of an extended partition, two strappings are installed, separated by a distance sufficient to accommodate communications. All operations during the installation of the frame are performed in exactly the same way as in the first case. First, the distance at which the two frames will be spaced apart from each other is determined, then the strapping bars and vertical racks are mounted.

After one side of the partition is lined, all the necessary communications are laid inside it in pipes or special boxes made of galvanized steel sheet or plastic. It is also possible to install inside the partition and radiators, although this will require additional work. Batteries are installed closer to one of the sides, and ventilation grilles are mounted in front of them in drywall.

It should be remembered that in places where pipes with hot water are laid, foam plastic and foam rubber cannot be used as an insulating material. Mineral wool is used as thermal insulation in these places.

There is a way to increase the internal volume of the partition without installing a double frame. In this version, the strapping frame is installed alone, but the vertical posts are attached to the side edges of the strapping bars, as a result of which the partition becomes wider. In this case, the installation of racks to the frame is also simplified - neither adapter bars nor corners are needed. To improve sound insulation, rubber or foam pads are placed between the posts and the strapping bars.

In addition to options with single-layer cladding with drywall, there are designs in which sheets are laid in two layers on each side of the partition. In this case, drywall is attached to the bars in such a way that the top sheet overlaps the joint of the bottom layer of sheets.

Having finished the installation of drywall sheets, the seams at the joints of the sheets and the heads of the screws are puttied, after which they proceed to finish the partition.

1. Left - Insulation is laid after the partition is lined with drywall on one side.
2. On the right - For greater strength of the partition and ease of installation of drywall on the frame, an additional crate is stuffed.

You should also remember that:

• In temporary residences (for example, in a summer house), the insulation in the partition should be protected with a vapor barrier film.
• Reinforced racks are placed in the places where the doors are installed.

To work with drywall, various materials are used. The most common method of building profile metal frames, however, wooden structures can also be found quite often.

Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so some people prefer it. It is worth saying that the tree is subject to climatic influences, biological corrosion and fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame is used quite often.

Wood preparation

Physical Properties

The frame for drywall is made from high-quality coniferous wood.

Make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.

Main physical characteristics:

• Humidity from 12 to 18%;
• For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8 - 3 meters, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for the crate is used;
• For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8 - 4.2 meters, a bar with a section of 60 × 50 mm is used for risers and battens, while depending on the height, different thicknesses of the plasterboard are used: for a height of 2.8 - 3 meters - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3 - 3.6 meters - 2 ×14 mm, 3.6 - 3.9 meters - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9 - 4.2 meters - 2 × 18 mm;
• The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
• Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first fire safety group;
• Connection on nails, spikes and self-tapping screws is allowed, while spikes are most preferable, as they create a rigid and durable connection;
• The thickness of sound insulation made of mineral wool should be between 50 and 60 mm;
• The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm;
• The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie down for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.

You should use high-quality lumber that meets the requirements for moisture and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates on the processing of the material with flame retardants and the passage of relevant examinations by authorized bodies.

Chemical processing

Treatment with an antiseptic is a condition for the long service life of lumber.

In addition to fire treatment, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.

This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:

• Fungal and mold microorganisms. A tree can serve as a nutrient medium for the mycelium of a number of molds and not only fungi. In this case, the wood becomes unusable and collapses;
• biological decay. Wood is an organic material that is subject to necrobiosis and decay, like all organisms. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
• carpenter insects. Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
• rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.

Insect pests can damage wood in a short time.

Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.

It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The limiting solubility is 3.5 - 4%.

Sodium fluoride sinks well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode the metal, has no smell and is not toxic to humans. Fairly strong antiseptic.

An example of wood damage by fungal mycelium.

Sodium silicofluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it to pure sodium fluoride.

The use of oily antiseptics is unacceptable for residential premises:

• creosote,
• coal,
• shale,
• anthracene oils.

These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.

Installation of a wooden frame under drywall

Tracing lines connecting partition walls to walls

Use the 3 or 4 meter rule to draw lines.

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the partition, it is necessary to trace, or, more simply, mark the lines along which the partition will adjoin the walls, floor and ceiling of the room. (See also the article How to Build a Drywall Partition: Features.)

To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and retreat from it by the width of the GKL sheet.

It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb line down the wall. To do this, we hammer a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.

A centered weight with an axis indicator should be used as a plumb line.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.

This can be done by constructing the so-called "Egyptian triangle": a right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where the legs correspond to the 3rd and 4th, and the hypotenuse to the 5th.

At the same time, one leg is set aside along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of the 3rd. Next, from the bottom point, we build an arc of a circle in the direction of the perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of 4.

Then, from the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build an arc of a circle with a radius that is a multiple of 5 so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.

Connecting the point of intersection of these arcs with the original low point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line on the floor along this perpendicular - the second line of our partition.

In the place where the floor line connects to the opposite wall, mark a point at the bottom of the wall. With the help of a level or plumb line, we transfer this point to the ceiling. We connect the lower and upper points and get the third line. (See also Drywall Niches in the Wall: How to Make.)

Next, we connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth and last line. Thus, we should get a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.

Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick: attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.

Frame mounting

Wooden frame for plasterboard partitions.

As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical as well as horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.

To do this, along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling, bars should be fixed. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or spikes to the ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.

If the building is stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.

The Knauf bracket can be used to mount the beams to the wall.

We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located near the wall, then the lower beam will be solid and located on one side of the opening.

So, we fix all the bars, for drilling holes in the walls and ceiling we use an impact drill with a drill for concrete.

Doorway

The doorway is formed by double risers.

When the frame is ready, proceed to the installation of the doorway.

Racks

Racks should be installed vertically in level.

To determine the location of the jumper (vertical, which is above the opening), we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be at the doorway, and place the jumper in place of its edge so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.

Advice!
To connect the beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal linings designed for assembling truss systems.
These fasteners are reliable and designed for significant loads.

We check each detail according to the level: the racks must be strictly vertical, the lintels must be strictly horizontal.

You should also try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.

All manipulations for assembling a wooden frame are easy to do with your own hands, and alone. We advise beginners to work with an assistant, it is better if it is a technically competent or experienced person.

The wooden frame is sheathed in the same way as the metal one.

The work on sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.

It should also be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality lumber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.

Tool

To work, you will need a standard set of tools for wood.

So, you will most likely need a set like this:

If you don't have an impact drill or a screwdriver, you can rent them at the hardware store. Also, do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for soundproofing.

You can use thick mats so as not to lay the cotton wool in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a grid or other basis that prevents the material from caking.

Conclusion

Assembling a wooden frame for plasterboard is a simple job that does not require special skills. This instruction gives a general idea, for greater clarity, we recommend watching the video on this page, which will help you understand many of the nuances and intricacies of assembling the structure.

To work with drywall sheets, you often need to make a frame. It is mainly made from, but sometimes you can use ecological material - wood. Drywall on a wooden frame is mounted in the case of 100% certainty that the tree will not be deformed from moisture and the wooden blocks will be treated from pests.

The tree tends to change its size with sudden changes in temperature, with high humidity. When sheathing the frame with drywall, during its finishing, the wood frame will breathe air that penetrates into the section between the wall and drywall. Therefore, first of all, a wooden frame for drywall is mounted in a room where the walls are dry and there is no moisture. The use of wood saves space, this has always been an important point. Every person wants to leave the space of the room.

Very often, a wooden frame is placed in private wooden houses and in houses made of logs. With proper treatment of wood, it will last a long time.

There is a method of attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling (wall) without a frame. In this case, a number of facts should be taken into account:

1. Wood quality.
2. Room humidity.
3. Wood processing.

The tree "breathes", so it is likely that the drywall will deform or burst. Therefore, before attaching to the wooden base of the ceiling, you should carefully consider this step.

For greater confidence in the guarantee of a wooden frame, the timber is treated with drying oil. In this case, it does not swell when exposed to moisture and does not shrink in dry and hot air.

In dry rooms, it is possible to create a partition based on a wooden frame sheathed with plasterboard.

Necessary tools and material in the work

To work with a wooden beam, tools and materials are needed, without which it is impossible to make a wooden frame with your own hands:

1. Ordinary hammer.
2. A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.
3. Construction knife and blade set.
4. Drill, if the walls are made of concrete or brick.
5. Saw.
6. Meter or tape measure.
7. Ruler and pencil.
8. Laser level or normal.
9. Dowels, wood screws and ordinary screws.

• Drying oil or other antiseptic solution for wood processing.
• Primer, preferably with additives.
• Insulating material - polystyrene foam, mineral wool.
• Putty, reinforced tape.
• Roller, brush.
• A set of spatulas.

Selection and preparation of wood for the frame

In order to make a frame from a wooden beam with your own hands, you need to choose the type of wood. Not every tree will fit this design. The best option is needles.

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Fixing heavy objects to drywall

In order for the tree not to succumb to the influence of external factors, and also so that pests do not start, wooden blocks should be processed:

• Sodium fluoride. This antiseptic penetrates deep into the tissues of the tree. Does not contain impurities toxic to humans, does not smell;
• Fluorosilicic sodium. Soda ash is added.

It is forbidden to process a tree for a dwelling with such means: coal, slate substances. For humans, these drugs are dangerous. Before starting the installation of the frame, the tree should be in the room for several days.

Surface preparation

When starting to install a frame made of wooden bars, you should prepare the surface. For this you will need:

A very important point is the preparation of the surface and the identification of wet spots. The wall must be dry and even.

markup

Marking is applied to the prepared dry wall and a drawing is made for the future design:

• measure the length and height of the wall on which the structure will be made;
• using these numbers, the perimeter of the room is calculated (the length must be multiplied by the height);
• all received numbers are transferred to a sheet of paper. First, on paper, and on the wall, horizontal and vertical lines are drawn, along which the bars for the frame under the drywall will be laid;
• fixing points should be noted.

With the help of the drawing made and the markings applied, the frame will turn out to be even and rigid (without movements and vibrations).

Wooden frame assembly

Before you start fixing the wooden beams with your own hands, for the future frame, you need to use plumb lines to beat off points on the ceiling and on the floor, which will form a clearly horizontal surface. Now:

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Required distance between profiles under drywall

Each step taken in the manufacture of the frame should be checked with a level and compared with plumb lines. The entire structure should be checked for the quality of rigidity, the “floating” structure is unreliable and will not last long.

Fastening drywall to the finished frame

The next step is to install drywall on a wooden frame. Sheathing begins with whole sheets. Drywall is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Mounting step 30 cm.

The joints of the sheets horizontally should be in a checkerboard pattern, that is, one sheet is even, the second is cut by 20 cm and when attached it will be lower, the cut-off GKL bar should be attached at the very top. The open area should be sealed with drywall cut to size. The edge of the drywall sheet should be exactly along the wooden beam.

Finishing

After the step of sheathing the GKL of the wooden structure, the next step is the finishing of the GKL. First you need to process and seal the seams. If a chamfer was not made during plasterboard sheathing, then grooves should be cut with a construction knife at the joints of the sheets, with a depth of about 0.5–0.8 mm. These grooves should be cleaned of excess cardboard and treated with a primer. For such work, a brush is suitable. The primer must be completely dry before proceeding with gluing with reinforced tape and sealing putty.

Putty should be applied in a thin layer, covering not only the seam with the tape, but also the attachment points. After the putty has dried, all excess pebbles-stripes are removed with sandpaper. The sealed seams should be in the same plane with the entire surface (do not protrude).

After the putty has dried, the entire drywall surface should be treated with a primer mixture. This will improve the adhesion of the putty and prevent moisture from penetrating into the GCR.

After puttying the surface, as well as complete drying, the entire surface should be rubbed with sandpaper.

Now the plasterboard wall based on a wooden frame is completely ready for further decoration.