2 storey frame house. Video instructions for the installation of frame houses

The issue of buying a home today is the most relevant. Young families especially need it. They do not have the funds to purchase expensive housing. A good alternative to the classic solutions to the problem by buying an apartment or expensive suburban housing is the construction of insulated frame houses.

During their construction, new technologies and modern environmentally friendly inexpensive materials are used. Many projects of houses on a frame basis have been developed. Two-story frame houses are especially popular, in which families consisting of different generations can live. In them, thanks to large area, it is possible to provide for zoning of space at the discretion of the owners. This is a living room, kitchen, dining room and other rooms. The technology of erecting two-story frame dwellings is of the greatest interest, therefore, before starting construction, all the details of the process should be studied.

Features of the construction of a two-story frame house

The frame is the skeleton of the future house, which takes on the main load. There are two types of frames:

• platform view, including alternate floor construction of the house;
• through design of racks passing through the first and second floor.

1. The platform type of the frame, based on floor construction, is most often used, because it is convenient to assemble and has smaller dimensions of structural elements.

The sequence of construction of such a structure is as follows:

1. assembly of floor slabs that serve as the basis for the walls of the first floor;
2. installation of load-bearing racks of the first floor;
3. mounting top floor the first floor, which is also the floor of the second floor;
4. installation of racks on the second floor; assembly ceilings second floor, which also serves as an attic floor

2. The use of through-frame technology is more labor-intensive. Through racks have to be temporarily fixed to other structural elements in order to avoid deformation. Racks pass without interruption through interfloor ceilings to the base of the roof.

These types of frame structures are in demand among people who prefer classic style, in which the structures serve simultaneously as elements of the interior.

Beam frame is made different section. The structural elements of the frame are rigidly connected with steel bolts, plates, connecting corners and other fasteners. Outside, the frame is most often sheathed with slabs (for example, DSP), which are produced according to different technologies. Plates possess moisture resistant and fire-resistant qualities.

During construction, regardless of the type of frame, different technologies are used:

• Canadian using SIP or platform panels;
• German, using the factory assembly of panel panels;
• frame-frame.

All these technologies are distinguished by a different approach to the assembly of panel panels and their completeness. Panels can be assembled in production, as well as directly at the construction site.

Platform technology involves the fastening of double shields at the construction site using a pre-installed platform and a log with grooves. The shields are fastened with the help of the upper strapping. The space between the shield panels is filled with insulation.

SIP panels are double slabs of OSB or OSB with a foam core.. They are manufactured at the factory and then brought to the construction site.

german technology includes the production of panel panels completely prefabricated. These panels are equipped necessary elements, from insulation materials to engineering communications. Practically, the assembly of the entire configuration of the structure is carried out. Then it is delivered to the construction site using specially designed equipment.

Frame-frame technology involves work at the construction site. The frame, usually consisting of a glue beam with a cross section of 150 mm or more, is sheathed with boards that meet technological requirements or moisture-proof boards. Then the walls are insulated with special materials.

This technology is often used in Russia, especially when self erection dwellings. It is simple, does not require special equipment, and is more flexible, as it allows you to make the necessary changes to the architecture and design of the building on the spot.

Consider in more detail the construction of a two-story frame house , relying on knowledge of technologies and types of frameworks by example.

Start work on a pre-prepared foundation with installation bottom strapping, which is the base of the entire frame. It is mounted from bars of the required dimensions, sometimes from boards or logs. If the floor beams enter the strapping circuit, it is performed in two rows. When the floor beams are located on the pillars, the strapping circuit is made in one row. The connection of the corners of the strapping is carried out using a direct lock. Having installed the lower harness and fastening it to the foundation with metal spikes, proceed with the installation of the supporting racks. They are divided into corner ones, made of timber, and ordinary ones, the material of which is boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm.

To provide additional rigidity, struts made of boards are attached to the racks. Mounted on installed racks top harness, usually with straight spikes. Ceiling beams are cut into it in the case of a floor frame. Then the carrier racks of the second floor are installed, which are mounted in the same way as the first.

The walls are insulated with basalt sheets, the thickness of which is at least 50 mm. They are overlapped to avoid the penetration of cold.

As the outer skin of the house, wood materials are used, for example, lining or special slabs. It is imperative to leave a ventilated gap of up to 30 mm to allow excess moisture to escape from the insulation.

Advantages of a two-story frame house

The advantages of frame houses with two floors are beyond doubt.

• such buildings have an area that allows to provide functional zoning providing all the needs of residents;
• they are compact and occupy a small area;
• erected quickly;
• do not shrink;
• durable and energy efficient;
• I have good thermal insulation and waterproofing properties;
• allow you to live all year round.

Often, an attic space is equipped as a second floor. To do this, the design of the roof slopes must be specially designed in order to increase the space of the attic. This floor is called the attic. This allows significant savings Construction Materials, increasing living space. Attics are often used as a bedroom or office. The advantage of such structures with an attic over two-story ones is their more low cost due to the exclusion of the cost of floors and the upper section of the walls.

compact houses frame type with an attic are especially in demand. Building dimensions standard projects- this is 6x4, 6x6, 6x8, 8x8. The total area of ​​such dwellings, taking into account the attic, is from 40 to 120 square meters. m. Let us consider in more detail the layout of such projects and the cost of housing built.

Popular sizes of two-story frame houses. Cost and layout:

The layout of a 6x4 house includes a minimum layout of rooms. Usually total area they are about 40 square meters. m. The first floor is divided into a living room and a kitchen, and the attic floor is assigned to a bedroom.

Foundation - concrete reinforced base, walls: frame - timber 100x100 mm, 100x50 mm, floors - beams 150x50 mm in size, sheathed with OSB slabs on the outside, Izospan was used as waterproofing, insulation - basalt sheets 100 mm thick, siding or decorative tiles outside and clapboard inside the house. The roof is made of ondulin or.

The cost of such housing ranges from 550 thousand rubles. up to 1500 thousand rubles.

In a previous article, I talked about my house, which I built on my own, with a budget of 600,000 rubles. In this one, I'll show you how you can do it yourself. All the described works will take no more than 2 months, provided that the foundation is ready.

If in a couple of words to tell what my first article was about, then it will be the phrase “what should we build a house”. The most the main idea, which I wanted to convey to readers - is that it is quite possible to build a house on your own! To do this, you don’t need to be a super specialist or have a solid amount of money - it’s enough to have arms growing from the right place, a head on your shoulders, a certain amount of money - I designated 700,000 rubles, about 4 months, which you can completely devote to construction and one - two assistants. This is all. If you have all this, then read on, I will try to explain step by step as clearly as possible how this is done using my personal experience similar construction.

A few notes at the beginning. In order to avoid warping of the frame during construction, it is advisable to use dry lumber. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of buying dry wood. If you buy industrially dried wood, it will greatly increase the cost of construction. Better find material natural drying. It is not difficult to distinguish such a forest from damp. It is necessary to lift the beam and knock on it. If a 6-meter bar with a section of 100x100 mm rises without significant effort, and the sound is high and sonorous, then the lumber is dry. In the midst of the construction season, you are unlikely to find such material. Therefore, either buy in the winter, when the demand for wood is minimal and there is a chance to find one that has already lain down for a couple of months, or dry the material yourself. Perfect option- in the fall you make a foundation and buy raw timber and boards. Stack in stacks, with obligatory spacers every 1 m between rows. Close the stacks, for example with roofing material. The ends should not be closed - it is necessary to ensure free circulation of air between the bars and boards. By spring, when you enter the active construction phase, you will receive air-drying lumber.

Now about the quantity. Since I am talking about the construction of a specific house described in my previous article, all calculations are given specifically for him. This cottage with an attic with a total area of ​​100 m2:

1. Bar 150x150x6000 mm - 25 pcs.
2. Bar 150x100x6000 mm - 39 pcs.
3. Beam 100x100x6000 mm - 44 pcs.
4. Beam 150x50x6000 mm - 16 pcs.
5. Beam 100x50x6000 mm - 19 pcs.
6. Edged inch board 6000 mm - 60 pcs.
7. OSB sheets 2440x1220x9 mm - 60 sheets.
8. Fasteners - 5 kg of nails 200 mm and 150 mm, 2 kg of self-tapping screws 150 mm, 120 mm and 5 kg of self-tapping screws 45 mm (50 and 55 mm are also possible, but 45 mm is optimal).
9. Waterproofing film - 150 m 2.
10. Metal tile - 110 m 2 (this is the final size, with real selection the amount of material will increase by almost a quarter).
11. Tools - hacksaws, hammers, a sledgehammer, an ax, a screwdriver, a foam gun, brushes, it's good if there is a chainsaw.
12. Fire-bio impregnation - 10 l, polyurethane foam 3-4 balloons.

The sizes are indicated standard length lumber of 6 m. As a rule, in fact it is slightly larger, sometimes up to 0.5 m. Therefore, in some places during construction it makes sense to select material with the most suitable length. I draw your attention to the fact that these are materials necessary for the work described only in this article. Materials for insulation and finishing are not taken into account here. In addition, the number of fasteners is indicated approximately, but these are consumables and it is easy to buy them in the process. Lumber, on the other hand, makes sense to buy with a small margin, since the margin is never superfluous.

All of the specified material will cost you no more than 150,000 rubles.

Bottom trim

In essence, the most milestone the construction of a frame house is the assembly of the frame. We can say that with its construction, the house is 70% ready. It is understood that by the beginning of the assembly the foundation is already ready. Well, let's start building the frame. First, we make the lower harness - the perimeter of our house. We have this foundation:

We lay the lining roofing material in 3 layers on the plinth and retaining posts and begin to make the lower trim. It is assembled from a bar with a section of 150x150 mm, carefully pre-treated with a bioprotective compound - as this is the only place that is unprotected and in contact with the atmosphere. Corners and joints are connected to the log floor. The joints are treated with bioprotection and, so that there are no cold bridges, they are foamed before bonding. While the foam has not hardened, the bars are connected either with 120 mm nails, although when they are hammered, the non-hardened foam can be completely squeezed out, or with 127 mm wood screws. To make them easier to wrap, it makes sense to pre-drill holes for them in the upper log. As a result, we get the following picture:

Binding angles

Connection of a retaining beam with a strapping

Connecting beams in a straight line

General form

I draw your attention to the fact that, connecting with the strapping, the edge of the retaining beam also lies on the base. Since the beams must be laid as close as possible to the edge of the plinth, all dimensions must be carefully maintained. An error of a couple of centimeters and you will get a step on which water will accumulate, and the strapping will constantly get wet and, as a result, rot. The joints of 6 and 3 m pieces lying on the foundation are not critical, since they lie completely on the plinth, and vertical load on them is distributed evenly along the entire length. Strapping bars running along outside verandas are fastened on the edge of a 3-meter protruding part of the foundation, that is, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corner of the hallway. Here it is just necessary to pick up a beam longer than the standard 9 meters. In addition, I deliberately did not attach the strapping to the base - why the extra holes in the bars, and the total mass of the structure (according to my estimates 10 tons) will not allow the house to move even under the influence of a hurricane. By the way, my house has already survived a couple of almost hurricanes. It was not possible to destroy or at least move the frame that was not attached to the foundation to the wind, which felled centuries-old trees.

Frame assembly

After completing the strapping, we carefully mark the places of future vertical bars according to the diagrams below. All corner bars with a section of 150x150 mm (highlighted in color), the rest 150x100 mm, oriented 100 mm side along the outer walls. All dimensions are given to the middle of the timber. Let me remind you that in my previous article, for simplicity, I gave the name to the walls on the cardinal points. My house is oriented exactly as the walls are marked. How your house will be oriented is up to you. The only remark, since my wall with the name "northern" goes exactly to the north, and even close to the neighbors, there are no windows in it on the first floor. So:

north wall

south wall

East wall. I pay attention to the 4th log from the left. It should be located in this place, since this is where the junction of the second floor strapping logs will be.

Western wall. Here, symmetrically to the beam on the eastern wall is the corresponding beam (4th from the right)

We have two western walls - internal (indicated above) and external (further):

So far, we are only marking the places of future vertical poles. The next stage is the laying of the floor logs of the first floor. We lay 6-meter bars with a section of 150x150 mm on top of the strapping in increments of approximately 1 m. It is good to place the logs so that they eventually adjoin the vertical bars, as shown in the figure. This will give additional structural strength. If the step between the lags at the same time will be somewhat different from the specified 1 m (within 10 cm) - it's okay, a section of 150x150 mm and a retaining beam will give the necessary rigidity to the floor.

It is necessary to pay attention to the position of the first and last log, as well as the log lying at a distance of 6 m from the edge of the house. The first and last are placed at a distance of 150 mm from the edge (so that the vertical bars of the northern and eastern walls stand on the harness close to these lags). Be sure to install the one that will fall on the place where the retaining pillars for the log of the second floor will stand at a distance of exactly 6 m (distance to the center of the timber). Sawing timber to even 6 m does not make sense. On the eastern wall we lay them flush with the strapping, on the western inner wall let them protrude a little, it will be under the finishing floor, that is, it will not be visible. In total, you will need 10 6-meter bars.

For the floor on the veranda and in the hallway, the logs - these will be 10 bars 150x100x2150 mm - are laid with the same step in the free places. We fasten everything diagonally 200 mm with nails or self-tapping screws to the strapping and the supporting central beam. We foam all the places where the bars adjoin each other. The output will be like this:

We begin to install vertical poles. Since the height of the OSB sheet is 2.44 m, if we use one sheet in a row, we get the height of the ceilings in the room 2.44 - 0.15 (piping) - 0.2 (lags + finishing floor) - 0.1 (piping second floor) = 1.99 m. This is not enough. It is necessary to increase in height in pieces. If we divide the OSB into 4 parts, we get pieces of 0.61 m. Total 1.99 + 0.61 = 2.6 m. Quite sufficient ceiling height. Then the vertical bars should be (since they are on the harness) (2.44 + 0.61) - (0.15 + 0.1) = 2.8 m, which is indicated in the diagram. We file 9 bars 150x150 mm and 28 bars 150x100 mm according to this size.

Further work can be done in 2 ways:

1. As I did (not the best way). Assembled the frame according to the specified dimensions. I embroidered vertical bars with jibs from boards (I used a 2-meter inch, later she went to the fence). Made the top harness. The resulting design is:

After assembly, sheathed with OSB sheets. When the frame was completely ready and sheathed (that is, fastened), the jibs were removed. I did this because at the time of installing the OSB vertical bars I didn’t have, and I didn’t have assistants either, and assembling the frame according to the second method requires their presence.

2. The right way. We put corner beam along a plumb line, for example at the northeast corner. We fasten it with a 200 mm nail or self-tapping screw diagonally so that it does not move. There is no need to use mounting plates and corners - this will only increase the cost of construction, and will practically not affect the final strength, since the frame is strengthened by OSB sheets. Do not forget to foam the joints to avoid the formation of cold bridges. At the required distances, we similarly install the two nearest beams. We fasten horizontal pieces of bars 150x50 mm between verticals at a height of 950 mm and 2290 mm from the upper plane of the strapping (distances are indicated to the middle of the bars, we foam the joints). These bars are cut to a size equal to the distance between the verticals, then simply inserted into the gap without any additional tricks and secured with nails or self-tapping screws. Their task at this stage is not to fall. OSB then finally holds everything together. The lower horizontal bar is a window sill in places where there are windows, and where there are none, it is an element reinforcing the frame. Upper - a beam for joining OSB sheets with upper pieces. We dissolve the OSB sheet in half along the length. We sew the halves along the eastern and northern walls with 45 mm self-tapping screws in 100 mm increments. We install the next vertical component, fasten the horizontals and sew the next sheets. Under the window is a piece of OSB 1100 mm long. After 2 rows of OSB there will be the following picture:

We move further alternately along both walls and get two finished walls- north and east. From the southeast corner we move towards the western wall, from the northwest - towards the south. Probably, it will not work without jibs at all. The design will receive final rigidity only after the arrangement of the subfloor on the second floor. 2-3 pieces in a plane perpendicular to the plane of the wall being reinforced is enough. I draw your attention to the fact that from the northeast corner to the east side, the first sheet of OSB must be shifted by 70 mm. The same is true for the leaf on the southeast corner. This must be done in order to maximize the distance from the eastern wall to the retaining pillar, that is, to maximize the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe appendix in the northeast corner. This is not important, but adds convenience to finished house. Rest corner sheets fasten right from the corner.

No matter how you make the frame, we end up with the following picture:

The upper belt can be sewn up at any time, so if desired, it can be left for later.

Top harness

We proceed to the installation of the upper trim. For east, west interior and west external walls we take a bar 150x100 mm. We join 6 m and 3 m bars in the same way as on the lower harness. For the southern and northern - 100x100 mm. We connect everything into a log floor. We cut the retaining beams 100x100 mm. They will rest on the harness and on the 3rd and 5th vertical posts, standing in their respective places. Under them we bring retaining pillars 100x100 mm at the junction of them with 3 m pieces. bottom they will stand on their respective lags. We also put the other two supporting pillars on the logs of the first floor in any place convenient for you. I guessed the dimensions in such a way as to hide these pillars in the wall between the room and the toilet. We attach 2-meter pieces along the northern and southern walls to the internal trim - perhaps this is the only place where it makes sense to use mounting plates and corners. With the western wall we connect them into a log floor. We fasten all this to vertical pillars with nails or self-tapping screws, not forgetting to foam the outer seams.

With a step of 0.61 meters, starting from the southern wall, from a beam of 100x100 mm we put the logs of the second floor. We put the first and last logs directly on the strapping beam, pre-foaming along the entire length. We leave an opening in the future ceiling under the stairs. This step is necessary, since I made the draft floor of the second floor (it is also the ceiling of the 1st floor) from OSB, and it has a width of 1.22 m, that is, the bars fall just at the junction of two sheets.

We attach all logs to the strapping and retaining beams. After that, from below, directly to the plane of the lag of the second floor, we sew OSB sheets with 45 mm self-tapping screws. It is clear that they will need to be cut to length. We measure the distance between the inner plane of the wall and the retaining beam - this is right size. Three rows of 11 sheets of OSB each - this will be the basis for the ceiling of the 1st and the draft floor of the 2nd floor. I quite consciously did not use drywall sheets, despite the fact that it would be easier and cheaper. Having hemmed the ceiling from OSB, I gave the necessary geometric rigidity to the entire structure. After completing this stage, you can breathe easy, because the result is a very rigid box structure, which is not afraid of any cataclysms.

Attic floor

I was in a hurry to close the house with a roof to protect myself from precipitation, so I carried out all the internal work, already having a roof. Inside the house, he moved along piled boards and OSB sheets. It's pretty inconvenient. If the weather allows, then it makes sense to first make a draft floor of the 1st and 2nd floors, then it will be easier and safer to build. If, as in my case, the rains make their own adjustments, then let's quickly do the roof, and temporary flooring from the boards will save you from falling from a height during construction. I will talk about floors in the next article.

In fact, the arrangement of the attic floor comes down to the installation of the truss system. My roof is 2 pitched. The ridge runs in the middle of the residential part of the house, that is, along an axis from north to south at a distance of 3 m from the eastern wall. The ridge height of 2.8 m gives two slopes - east at 45 ° and west at 30 °. Such slopes practically exclude the accumulation of snow on the roof in winter.

I made the rafter system with a central ridge beam. To attic room it was not "blind" and dark, on the northern and southern walls I made a window each. To do this, I installed two beams 150x100 mm 2 m long at a distance of 650 mm from the axis. Since the walls of the attic floor are triangles, and the work is carried out at a height, it is rather problematic to use the same construction technology as on the first floor. Therefore, we use my “wrong” technology, that is, first we install vertical bars in the right places, we embroider them in two planes so that they do not fall, and then only, having cut out the necessary pieces of OSB, we sew up the gables. Upon completion, we remove the joint boards. So, 2-meter bars stand and are fixed with jointing. On top of them we lay a beam 150x100 mm 1400 mm long. We get the letter "P". From above, on the crossbar, in the middle we install a beam 150x100 mm 700 mm long. From below, through the crossbar we fix this beam. Naturally, everywhere, now and henceforth, do not forget about the foam. On the sexual lag set two vertical beams 100x100 mm, length 2800 mm. at a distance of 3000 mm from the eastern wall, that is, along the axial. It makes sense to put the first one on the log closest to the stairway - it will later serve as the last baluster for stair railings. The second one is on a log at a distance of 6 m from the northern wall. It is clear that we can miss a little, so we choose the nearest one. It is clear that this pillar will be at the junction of 6 m and 3 m bars. The result is a 4-in-a-row system. On these 4 pillars we lay 6 m and 3 m bars on top. We nail 200 mm from above with nails to each vertical component. It turned out ridge beam, the lower plane of which is at a height of 2.8 m from the level of the lag.

We mount scaffolding along the retaining pillars at a height of 2 m - you will walk along them during the installation of the rafters. The following is the algorithm. One person ties the finished rafters to the end with a rope, the second pulls them up with this rope so that they lie at one end on the ridge beam, and on the other, along the eastern wall - on the edge of the sex logs, along the western - on the strapping beam. If there is another assistant, then he, being at the level of the 2nd floor, will adjust the position of the rafters. Otherwise, the only assistant from below, armed with a suitable stick, will install the rafters in the right places from below. Perhaps this is the most physically difficult stage of work.

The rafters are installed above the corresponding lags, that is, their number is the same. Each is nailed to the ridge beam with 200 mm nails. They should be hammered vertically. This applies to all nails that you will drive into the roof surface. Bottom part it is similarly attached either to the strapping - the western wall, or to the ends of the log - the eastern wall. The western slope is made from a bar 100x100 mm, the eastern one from 100x50, installed vertically. On the western slope, you can use a beam with a section of 150x50 mm. The use of a material with a larger section for the western side is impractical - the margin of safety is quite enough, there is a slope of 45 °.

On the inner western wall, under each rafter, we install retaining bars 100x100 mm. At a distance of 1000 mm from the eastern wall, we similarly install retaining bars 100x50 mm. It remains only to fasten the rafters with bows - horizontal boards, and the basis for the roof is ready. The result will be this picture:

A length of 6 m is hardly enough for the western rafters - there is not a very large overhang (about 30-40 cm), but still enough. Since I subsequently expanded the veranda, and I had to build up these rafters, this drawback did not become critical for me. For the east side, the rafters will be 4.5 m long, which will provide an overhang of 600 mm.

To prevent the rafters from slipping, it is necessary to make two corresponding cuts - under the ridge beam and retaining posts. They can be made on the ground, although for this it will be necessary to make two templates, or, as I do in place, it’s a little more difficult, but I’m not afraid of difficulties, and it was lazy to get down from the roof.

It remains only to mount the roof. One of the most inexpensive materials, perhaps, is a metal profile. I was going to use it. However, life, in the person of my beloved wife, has made its own adjustments. So I learned that I prefer metal tiles to metal profiles. I have a simple gable roof, so there will be no waste from the tiles, which means that the estimate will not grow so much, so I did not resist much.

So, for starters, we stretch over the rafters waterproofing film. On top of it we sew a crate of inch edged board. We start from the bottom. Sew the first board along the edge of the rafters. We make a release along the gables by 500 mm - this is the overhang of the roof. If you want, you can do more, then below, where the dimensions of the roof are given, make your own adjustments. From the bottom board with a step of 350 mm upwards, we sew the next ones. We use them as a ladder to climb higher. So to the skate. All nails, as he said, are hammered strictly vertically, that is, perpendicular to the surface of the earth, and not the roof.

We go to any store. We name two sizes: 6000x10000 mm - the size of the western and 4500x10000 mm - the size of the eastern slope. Basically two rectangles. Depending on the sheet sizes available for this tile, you will be calculated required amount material, taking into account overlaps. Do not skimp on the ridge element, ridge seal and wind slats. I haven't done the gutters yet. It doesn't bother me much, but I'll have to do it anyway. Moreover, two large slopes will allow you to easily organize the collection of rainwater in containers (one of these is visible in the photo of my house in the previous article). In order to save money, I plan to make them from loose along sewer pipe D110. Drainage pipes from it, only whole.

As in the case of the foundation, to say something new about the installation of metal tiles on a simple gable roof I probably won’t be able to - there are a number of instructions that describe in detail all the stages of work, for example. I will only note that the work was carried out by my forces plus one assistant. It took one business day. No subtleties and nuances - the roof is very simple.

As a result, I got a house, not yet insulated, but it is weatherproof and quite suitable for internal works: insulation and rough finish premises. I did all of this slowly. autumn months and for Christmas he met friends in his house, albeit outwardly unsightly, but already warm, and most importantly, his house. In the next article I will tell you how and what I did for insulation, as well as give some tips and recommendations for interior decoration.

Evgeny Dubinin, rmnt.ru

The caracas of the walls of the second floor begin to be assembled after the sheathing of the walls of the first floor is completed, because. plywood boards reinforce the rigidity of the entire system.

Do you want to build a 2-storey frame house?

This means that roofs should be thought out, and an opening should be provided in the ceiling, as well as a staircase leading to top floor. The opening is arranged at the stage of installing the floor log above the first floor. The distance between the lags at the opening is kept, but the number of lags in the structure is doubled. Moreover, with an opening width of up to 1200 mm - the logs are doubled on both sides, and with a width of more than 1200 mm - on four sides. Boards and logs at the joints are first fastened with nails, and then metal hangers are installed.

To assemble the walls of the second floor, you need to climb to the top floor, which means you need a ladder. It is developed in detail at the project stage. At the stage of assembling the walls, the entire staircase is not necessary. You can install only an intermediate platform, so that later you can support the mounting ladder on it. The staircase structure is fully assembled during internal finishing work.

The walls of the 2nd floor are assembled on the plane of the subfloor of this floor in horizontal position. The procedure for assembling the structure is similar to the 1st floor. You can read about this in the article about.

The draft floor on the floor of the 2nd floor is done in the same way as on the first floor. In the article " Interfloor overlap This process is described in detail.

We continue the series of articles on the topic “ How to build a house“. So we got to the second floor of the frame house. We have already determined in previous articles that the first floor of a frame house, together with the foundation, will cost us a maximum of 350,000 rubles. At this stage, the construction of the main part of the house, in principle, could be completed, it would be necessary to add shed roof, and this is another 30,000 rubles, insert windows and doors, and you can do landscaping while living in this house, and, to the best of your ability and ability, finish all sorts of different little things.

Although this has its own rational grain. Why fence two floors at once with a shortage of money, when you can build one floor but capitally, that is, to the end, and only then, as necessary and possible, build a second floor. Moreover, when building a house, I took not the most economical option on the consumption of materials. It would be possible to save about 50 thousand at least, and use this money to build a gable roof or attic.

Walls of the second floor of a frame house

To build the walls of the second floor, we need 50 six-meter boards with a section of 50x150 mm. at a price of 300 rubles per piece. As a result, we get an amount of 15,000 rubles. We will also need 5 six-meter beams for the corners, at a price of 900 rubles per beam. In total, we will spend 4,500 rubles on timber.

The construction of the walls of the second floor is no different from the construction.

In addition, our task was much simplified, we finished the garage.

In total, we will spend 19,500 rubles on the walls.

Covering the roof of a frame house

For the construction of the roof slab, we need 22 boards 50x150 mm. at a price of 300 rubles and 6 pieces of timber with a section of 150x150 mm. at a price of 900 rubles apiece. The principle of construction is the same as that of.

In total, we get expenses of 12,000 rubles.

Insulation of walls and ceiling of a frame house

So the area of ​​​​the walls of the second floor is about 100 sq / m. The ceiling area is 60 sq/m.

As we found out earlier, the price of a 150 mm thick insulation costs about 250 rubles per sq / m. In total, we will spend 40,000 rubles on insulation.

We will also need vapor barrier membrane for walls 5 rolls of 70 sq / m per roll at a price of 1255 rubles. Total 6275.

The total cost item for wall and ceiling insulation is 46,000 rubles.

OSB for facade ceiling and rough roof.

The area of ​​​​the walls of the second floor is 100 sq / m, the price of osb is 200 rubles per sq / m. We get 20,000 rubles.

The area of ​​the ceiling and the rough roof is 120 sq/m in total. In total, we will spend 24,000 on osb.

The total cost of OSB is 44,000 rubles.

Shed roof frame house

In principle, at this stage, again, you can save money by making the roof straight. But the savings here are rather illusory, so we will do it as planned. Although I like houses with a straight roof and we will definitely make such a house. And so, we need 34 boards for farms for 300 rubles. We will receive expenses of 10200 rubles.

Osb roof 60 sq/m at a price of 200 rubles per sq/m Expenses 12,000 rubles.

Roof 170 rubles sq / m. we need about 72 sq / m for the roof. metal tiles. In total, we need 12,240 rubles for a metal tile.

The roof will cost us 35,000 rubles.

The result for the construction of the second floor is 155,440 rubles for materials.

The second floor of the frame house TOTAL

• 30,000 -50,000 rubles.
• - 90,000 rubles.
• - 126,000 rubles.
• it will cost us 81,000 rubles.
• Second floor and roof 157,000 rubles.
• Additional costs for the delivery of materials nails and screws 20,000 rubles.

Total 524,000 rubles. which, in principle, is not far from the declared value. As I said, it was still possible to save money and we will safely meet this amount. But we will not prevaricate, and we admit that 500 thousand for such a house is of course not enough. Here it is necessary to add more windows and doors, this is about another 50 thousand. Finishing internal walls drywall is about another 30 thousand. Painting the facade, here the prices vary. Electrician. As the calculation showed, that such a house, according to modest estimates, will cost 700 thousand. But the point is to start building such a house with limited budget, you need to have on hand 500,000 rubles. And not to pay huge interest to the bank, but to finish building as much as possible while already living in this house. It is enough to build one floor on a turnkey basis, and attach the second one as far as possible. And yet let's not forget that the area of ​​the house will be 130 sq / m.

A two-story frame house is a capital structure, the basis of which is a solid wooden frame. Residential buildings built using this technology are suitable for permanent residence even in harsh climatic conditions. They have many advantages that dispel the doubts of skeptics.

Advantages of two-story frame houses

The choice in favor of two floors instead of one allows you to save space on the site and reduce the cost of building a foundation, purchasing roofing materials and roof installation. The construction of two-story frame houses is much cheaper, faster and easier than the construction of buildings from blocks, bricks, logs, concrete.

Benefits frame construction worth highlighting:

• High thermal efficiency, which is ensured by a special thermos technology used in construction.
• Economy in use. The cost of heating for frame houses is an order of magnitude less than for providing heat to buildings made of stone or wood, built using traditional technologies.
• Long service life. Frame-type houses do not require overhaul, as well as regular reconstruction of walls or foundations.
• No shrinkage.
• The resistance of materials to various external negative factors.
• Incombustibility of building materials.

It should be noted that the list of benefits is far from complete. Frame buildings different good parameters sound insulation and the absence of distortion of wall structures over many years of operation. Interior arrangement and finishing can be made from almost any modern materials.

How to build a two-story frame house

Choosing technology, according to which it is better to build a two-story frame house, you need to study each of them. Construction of insulated projects is a good alternative classical solution problems of buying or building a house. For construction today they use the newest and modern technologies, safe and affordable materials.

Specialists have developed a huge number of projects. And two-story frame houses are especially popular today, in which several generations of one family can live. Due to the large area, they can assume the possibility of zoning the space. The technology itself is of particular interest to consumers, so it is best to study all the subtleties of this process before starting construction.

Features of the construction of a frame house

The skeleton of a two-story frame house, which carries the main load, is the frame. Can be distinguished two types of frames:

• platform (including floor construction of a house);
• through (racks of the first and second floor are through).

The platform type frame is used more often. This can be explained by the fact that such a frame is very simple and quick to assemble. The design differs in smaller sizes and dimensions of all elements.

The platform view of the two-story frame is erected in the following order:

1. Assembly of floor slabs, which are the basis for the walls of the first floor.
2. Installation of first floor racks.
3. Installation of the top floor of the first floor. This overlap is the floor of the second floor.
4. Installation of racks on the second floor.
5. Assembling the ceiling slabs of the second floor, which serve as an attic floor.

The double frame technology is more complex and time consuming. Through racks are temporarily fixed to other structural elements. This method helps to avoid deformation. Racks without interruption pass through the intermediate floors and reach the base of the roof.

As a rule, frame houses of this type are more in demand among people who prefer a classic style. In such buildings, the structures and elements of the building can also serve as elements of the interior at the same time.

For the manufacture of the frame is used timber different section. Each element of the frame structure is rigidly and firmly mounted using steel bolts, connecting corners, plates and other elements for fastening. Most often, from the outside, the frame is sheathed with plates, for example, DSP. Such slabs can be manufactured using the most various technologies, they are waterproof and flame retardant.

Technologies for the construction of two-story frame houses

Regardless of the type of frame, the following technologies can be used in the construction process:

• Canadian - using platform panels or SIP panels;
• German, including the assembly of panel panels;
• frame-frame.

All of these technologies differ in different approaches to the completeness and use of panel panels. You can assemble the panels directly at the factory or with your own hands at the construction site of a two-story frame house.

Platform technology involves the use of a pre-prepared platform and logs equipped with grooves for attaching double shields at the construction site. The shields are fastened with the help of the upper strapping. The space between the shield panels is filled with insulation.

- This is a double slab or OSB, in which there is a layer of foam. They are produced at the factory and then delivered to the construction site.

German technology involves the manufacture of panel panels, the assembly of which is completely carried out in the factory. Such panels are equipped with the necessary elements, ranging from insulation materials to engineering communications. Almost all structural elements are assembled at the factory. Then all the parts are delivered to the object using special equipment.

Frame-frame technology largely different from the previous two. The use of this technology provides for the implementation of all assembly work directly at the construction site. The frame of the house consists of glued laminated timber, the cross section of which is 150 mm. Further, it is sheathed with boards, taking into account the requirements of the technology, or moisture-proof boards.

After completing these works, the walls are sheathed with special materials. Most often, frame-frame technology is used when building a house with your own hands. This technology is considered simple and more flexible, its use does not require the use of special equipment. It makes it possible to subsequently make the necessary changes to the design and architectural characteristics of the building.

Stages of building a frame house on two floors

At the very beginning of work on a pre-prepared foundation, it is installed, which will act as the base of the entire frame. Bars are used to mount the lower trim required sizes, less often boards or logs. When the floor beams enter the strapping loop, it is performed in two rows. If the floor beams are located on poles, the strapping circuit is made in one row.

Corner connections are made using direct lock. After installing the lower trim and fixing it to the foundation with metal spikes, proceed with the installation of the supporting racks. Racks are divided into corner and ordinary, made of timber with a thickness of at least 50 cm.

Plank struts are attached to the uprights for extra rigidity. As a rule, with the help of straight spikes, the upper harness is attached to the set racks. When using a floor frame, ceiling beams will be mounted into it. After that, the carrier racks of the second floor are installed by analogy with the first.

For wall insulation for a two-story frame house, basalt slabs are used, the thickness of which should not be less than 50 cm. In order to avoid cold bridges, the sheets are overlapped. For external cladding, high-quality lining, siding or special plates are used. To evaporate excess moisture from the insulation layers, it is necessary to leave a gap of up to 30 mm.

Two-story frame house with an attic

The space allotted for the attic is often used as the second floor of a frame house. But to implement such a solution, the structure of the roof slopes must be designed in a special way so that it is possible to increase the attic space if necessary. Such a floor is called an attic floor, and the solution itself makes it possible to significantly save building materials and increase living space.

Often attic floor serves as an office or bedroom. The advantage of arranging the attic can be called more budget cost, due to the exclusion of overlapping of the upper sections of the walls.

Particularly in demand are frame houses with attic compact size . Standard sizes such buildings - 6x4, 6x6, 6x8 or 8x8 m. The total area of ​​\u200b\u200bsuch a house will be from 50 to 130 square meters. m.

The most popular sizes of two-story frame-type houses

From the total area of ​​​​the house envy not only the cost of construction, but also the cost of maintenance. You need to choose according to the size of the site, family composition and personal needs.

The dimensions of the 6x4 house imply a minimum number of rooms in the project. As a rule, the total area of ​​​​the building is 40 square meters. m. The attic floor of such a house is reserved for a bedroom, and on the first floor there is a kitchen and a living room. The walls of the house are a frame made of timber 100x100 mm or 100x50 mm. Overlappings are beams with dimensions of 150x150 mm. The choice of foundation depends on the type of soil - from pile to slab.

From the outside, the house is sheathed OSB boards. Izospan is suitable as a waterproofing, and basalt sheets 100 mm thick as a heater. Outside, the house can be finished with siding or decorative tiles. For a roof, a metal tile or ondulin is suitable.

Frame house on two floors 6x6

Frame area two-story house 6x6 is 64 square meters. m. Thanks larger area in such a house it is easy to design several more rooms, except for the kitchen, bedroom and living room. For example, on the ground floor you can place a living room, a bathroom and even a sauna with a shower. And on the second floor there are several rooms, or two bedrooms and an office.

Frame house on two floors 8x8

The dimensions of the house give more possibilities for design and engineering. The area of ​​such a cottage is about 120 square meters. m. In addition to the kitchen and dining room, on the ground floor you can also place a children's room, living room, bathroom, shower, sauna or other rooms at the discretion of the owner.

Second floor frame house is suitable for placing several bedrooms, an office, a lounge. Depending on the roof configuration and design variant, attic floor there may be a ceiling of different levels. The roof can be gable, shed, curly or another type.

Taking into account the characteristics of the soil on the site, for construction, you can choose both a concrete and a foundation on piles. Traditionally, all common areas are located on the ground floor. But at the request of the owner of the house, the layout inner space can be modified according to needs and possibilities.

A comfortable two-story frame house can solve the problem of housing when minimal cost. Unlike ordinary apartment, such housing is more economical, ergo-efficient and functional. house made from natural materials, will be reliable, environmentally friendly and durable.

Video: building a house of 160 sq. m