Bright capricious: types of fittonia for growing at home. South American Fittonia: the nuances of growing at home

An exotic South American beauty with magnificent leaves of various shapes and colors, get acquainted - this is Fittonia (lat. Fittonia). According to the botanical classification, Fittonia is a herbaceous dicot perennial from the acanthus family.

The genus is named after the English sisters Sarah Mary and Elizabeth Fitton, who wrote the first textbook on botany in the early 19th century. The plant was first found in the tropical rainforests of South and Central America, and subsequently adapted for home and greenhouse cultivation.

There is not at all a large number of species belonging to the genus Fittonia:

• Giant (lat. Fittonia gigantea)- the only species in which erect shoots reach a height of 60 cm;
• Verschaffelt (lat. Fittonia verschaffeltii) - a low plant with branching stems and large oval leaves;
• Silvervein (lat. Fittonia argyroneura) - leaf plates are covered with a pattern resembling a silver-gray mesh.

The last two species are most often grown as indoor flowers.

All Fittonia, except for the giant one, have creeping lowered stems located close to the soil surface. This is undersized plant with small elliptical leaves, up to 7-15 cm long and up to 5-8 cm wide. It is dark green or olive leaves, decorated with a bright pattern of white, yellow, red or lilac veins, that give fittonia decorative value and are valued by florists. Nondescript small flowers collected in a spikelet do not attract attention, besides, small-leaved Fittonia hybrids do not bloom at all.

This dainty little plant is grown in flower pots, used in florariums, is ideal for paludariums, and is often planted in miniature gardens and greenhouses. Fittonia often serves as a decoration for flower showcases and artistic arrangements of flowers in various glass vessels.

Types and varieties of fittonia suitable for home cultivation

As mentioned above, giant fittonia, which has impressive dimensions and erect stems, is poorly adapted for growing at home.

Silver vein has a great chance to take root on the windowsill in the apartment if enough comfortable conditions. Feel good in flower pots and varieties of Fittonia Verschaffelt.

[!] It is noted that large-leaved species tolerate housing conditions much worse than small-leaved ones. For example, a hybrid of silver phytonia "Nana" with leaves no longer than 2.5-3 cm feels great in an apartment and does not die even with superficial care.

Based on just a few types of botany, a fairly large number of varieties have been bred that amaze with a variety of colors. Let's consider a few of them:

• Fittonia Fortissimo - variety with round leaves bright green, central and lateral veins painted pink;
• fittonia Frankie - elongated coral-colored leaves are bordered by a wide olive stripe;
• fittonia Josan - a magnificent plant with red leaves and a dark green border around the edge;

• fittonia Pearcei - velvety dark green leaves with a network of pink veins;
• fittonia Mosaic Kings Cross - an unusual representative of the genus with a wavy leaf edge and delicate white coloring;
• Fittonia Skeleton - on an olive-yellow leaf, a pattern of red veins stands out brightly, forming a mesh.

Every year, breeders bring out more and more new varieties with unusual colors and interesting ornaments on the leaves.

Fittonia care at home

Growing Fittonia at home is not easy, despite the fact that botanists have adapted the plant well to indoor content. Amateur flower growers consider this exotic guest capricious and demanding. But, if you remember that the birthplace of Fittonia is the tropical forests of South America, and create the appropriate conditions for the flower (humid air and heat), Fittonia will grow beautifully even in a city apartment. If this exotic guest appeared in your house, you will have to reckon with her character and intolerance for extremes. Flower growers who have studied the plant well give the following tips on caring for it:

Temperature and lighting

Fittonia feels ideal at a temperature of + 20 ... + 24 ° С. Should not be kept in high temperatures, and even more so in a cold room - this will lead to the development of diseases. The same consequences will have a sharp change in temperature and placing the flower in a draft. This is a true indoor plant, so even in summer it is not recommended to take Fittonia outdoors.

Fittonia is also hard to please with lighting. Its leaves fade both from an excess of light and from a lack. This is a light-loving flower, but care should be taken that there is no direct sunlight. The best location is the shaded window sill of the western or eastern window. In winter, the southern beauty suffers from a lack of sunlight, so best solution there will be an artificial increase in daylight hours with the help of phytolamps.

Watering and humidity

The watering regimen is very important when caring for Fittonia, while it is important to observe the golden mean: root system plants equally painfully perceive both overdried soil and highly moistened soil.

There are two main rules to remember. Firstly, the earth should not dry out completely, otherwise Fittonia will shed its leaves, and secondly, waterlogging of the soil should not be allowed so that the roots do not rot. To water a flower, it is enough to wait until upper layer the earth will dry up by 3-4 cm. This rule can be followed all year round, excluding winter. In winter, it is necessary to water Fittonia twice as rarely, after the soil has dried by about half the pot.

[!] In order to prevent the appearance of root rot, the water that appears in the pan after watering must be drained after 1-2 hours.
[!] Water for irrigation is better to defend or pass through a filter. It is desirable that its temperature be several degrees higher than the temperature in the room.

For the growth and development of Fittonia, high humidity is vital. To humidify the air, regular spraying can be carried out, preferably twice a day, in the morning and evening. Another way to increase the humidity in the air is to place a container filled with water next to the flower pot. But heaters that dry the air have a harmful effect on the tropical guest: you can’t put Fittonia on the windowsill, under which there is a hot battery.

Soil and top dressing

Fittonia will grow well in a universal substrate that can be bought at any gardening store. In addition, compositions for violets or geraniums are perfect from purchased soils.

If desired, you can prepare the substrate yourself. Soil composition: coniferous and sod land - two parts each, clean sifted sand and peat - one each. To maintain sufficient moisture in the soil, you can add a little sphangum, vermiculite and hydrogel balls: these components perfectly retain water.

Fittonia is quite dependent on fertilizers; both their excess and deficiency affect it equally badly. It is better to follow a simple rule: read the fertilizer concentration suggestion on the packaging and cut it in half. As fertilizer, you need to use any mineral supplements for indoor plants. In winter, you can not fertilize a tropical beauty, the rest of the time, the frequency of feeding is twice a month. It is better not to experiment with home-made fertilizers - no humus, no bird droppings, no ash, no crushed eggshell, which are so well suited to other indoor flowers, Fittonia will not accept.

pruning

Pruning or pinching allows you to preserve the decorative properties: if you pinch the shoots of Fittonia, it branches better, new young shoots appear and, in the end, the plant looks lush, healthy and beautiful. This procedure is best done at the end of March. For better branching, the tops of the shoots are removed (cut off or pinched), after which the lateral processes begin to actively develop. In this case, you should not get too carried away, as the complete pruning of all leaves will slow down the growth of young shoots. Cut shoots can later be rooted and planted.

Transplant and reproduction

Fittonia requires an annual transplant. It is best to do this in the spring months: in March or April. Simultaneously with the transplant procedure, you can rejuvenate the plant by pruning or pinching.

[!] When transplanting, you need to be very careful with brittle shoots.

Flower propagation can also be combined with transplantation. Fittonia is propagated by cuttings, division or layering.

Cuttings: from the very top of the plant, a cutting about eight centimeters long is taken, which has 3-5 leaves. The cut end of it is immersed in sand, and on top it is covered with an ordinary glass jar or plastic wrap. The covering structure must be periodically removed in order to water and spray the young plant. The cutting will take root well in a jar of water: you will need to pour quite a bit of liquid, and the jar will need to be tied with a plastic bag. To spray the leaves and let the plant breathe, two or three times a week, the package must be removed. Cuttings require heat, the air temperature must be at least + 26 ° C. Finally, when the formed roots become strong and long enough, you can plant a young fittonia in a special flower substrate.

Division: at the time of transplanting, the bush can be divided into parts and each part can be planted in a separate pot. The division must be done carefully so that not a single spine is damaged.

By layering: to propagate Fittonia in this way, you need to carefully bend the stem, on which there are no leaves yet, close to the ground and lightly dig a part of it. After the roots appear, the cutting can be safely separated from the mother plant.

[!] For a more lush and decorative look of the composition, several cuttings can be planted at the same time, and planting will be the most effective different varieties into one container.
[!] You can plant Fittonia with other green pets that are similar in terms of keeping conditions. So, for example, an almost ideal neighbor for Fittonia is dieffenbachia.

Diseases and pests

Fittonia is disease resistant. More often, her ailments are associated with errors in care: excessive watering, excess or insufficient sunlight, too dry air.

The following are the main growing problems that are fairly easy to deal with:

• Fittonia leaves faded. The plant lacks light or nutrients. What to do - place Fittonia in a more lit place, feed with mineral fertilizers.
• The lower leaves are falling off. Do not worry - this is quite normal, the Fittonia stem becomes bare over time.
• Sluggish, drooping leaves, dried tips. The likely cause is insufficient air humidity. What to do - spray the plant from a spray bottle, continue to maintain required level humidity. Another factor is too much light, it is necessary to shade the plant.
• Fittonia does not grow or grows very slowly. No big deal - it's salient feature flower. A tight bowl will help to speed up growth a little: in large spacious containers, due to acidification of the soil, Fittonia develops very poorly.
• The leaves turned yellow. Most likely, the plant is flooded. What to do - reduce the frequency of watering: the soil should have time to dry out a little.
• Fittonia stretches. The reason is the lack of light, the shoots reach for the sun. What to do - move to a more lit place. This phenomenon also happens if the plant has become old, overgrown. It is necessary to rejuvenate Fittonia by transplanting or pruning.

The most dangerous pests for Fittonia are thrips, scale insects, and spider mites. The easiest way to control pests is to mechanically clean the leaves with a mild soapy solution using a sponge. If there are too many insects, it is necessary to apply modern insecticides, following the instructions on the package.

Growing fittonia at home

in a pot

This method is classic. Fittonia is planted in a wide one with sides up to 7 cm high. Expanded clay, possibly finely beaten brick, should be poured into the bottom of the pot, and then soil for Fittonia should be laid.

Better expose flower pot on the windowsill on the north side on a special stand, which will protect the roots of the plant from hypothermia in the off-season. In a pot, it is best to plant low (dwarf) fittonia. The main disadvantage of this method is the regular monitoring of the humidity level.

In the florarium

This method can get rid of the problems of growing a flower in a pot, allows you to use hydroponics. With this method of growing Fittonia, large varieties cannot be planted. The role of flower pots is assigned to bottles, even large glasses with a high stem. In them, the plants should be located completely freely, so as not to rest against the walls with leaves. A whole garden can be placed in a similar small florarium, which will consist of fittonia with openwork nets of different colors. Can be compiled beautiful compositions, using clay figurines, marble chips, pebbles of different colors. This method is simpler than the previous one, because there is no need to control the humidity of the air: all evaporation remains inside the container. You need to water the composition in the florarium in a different mode: the moisture evaporated by the leaves, like condensate, settles on the walls of the vessel, and later it is used by the plant itself and until the condensate disappears, watering is not needed.

"Bottle Garden" is practically closed ecosystem. Once watering a flower, you don’t have to do this anymore, because a “circle” of water takes place in a tightly closed vessel. The main thing is a sufficient amount of light and space for Fittonia to grow well. This method is available only to professional growers, since if the closed ecosystem is wrong, Fittonia can be destroyed.

In the aquarium (paludarium)

This method is the most time-consuming and expensive. You will have to spend money on acquiring a container of sufficient volume, special equipment that maintains humidity and lighting at an optimal level.

If the lighting is good, then the flower, without suffering at all from waterlogging, will grow completely in the water. But it will develop slowly.

This is beautiful plant almost every flower lover knows. It's called Fittonia. Few people refrain from buying such a flower when they see it in a store window. If we compare it with such "noble" plants as, and others, then Fittonia wins in price, and beautiful variegated leaves of green or carmine-red color will attract the attention of even the most fastidious buyer. Having learned this flower closer, it becomes clear that it is easy to care for and grow, and over time, without great expense, a small bush will turn into a motley clearing, as if collected from the eggs of amazing birds.

For home cultivation, as a rule, such types of Fittonia as large (giant) and Verschafelta (small-leaved) are used. You need to know that the small-leaved variety of the plant is in great demand, and the large one is less in demand among flower growers. Fittonia can be used not only as a separate indoor flower in the interior, but also in combination with other plants.

Lighting and location. Fittonia, like other types of ornamental deciduous plants with variegated leaves, needs good lighting without direct sunlight. With a lack of lighting, the leaves of the flower will turn pale, and it will rise and take on an emaciated and painful appearance. The required minimum light can be determined by moving the plant to different places, while watching his reaction, which manifests itself very quickly. by the most the best place for Fittonia, windows on the west or east side are considered. It is worth noting that northern windows with partial shade may also come up, but this applies more to subsequent generations of the flower, that is, grown and raised in this particular house with its conditions. In winter, you need to try to add additional lighting.

Temperature. It should be noted right away that Fittonia is afraid of drafts and temperature fluctuations. In this regard, it is undesirable to take such a flower outside even in the warm season. This can confirm my own unpleasant experience ... Only at the beginning of my passion for floriculture before an urgent business trip, I forgot to warn my family about this property of Fittonia. Mom took the plant with “paper” leaves outside to stand in the air, thinking that I just forgot or didn’t have enough time for it. Two weeks later, it was too late to save the flower ...

In other moments, Fittonia is simply perfect for growing in a city apartment. It perfectly withstands the “winter heat” familiar to everyone and temperatures up to +25 degrees, which destroys many houseplants. For Fittonia, this is a normal temperature level, but a decrease to +17 degrees or even less provokes illness and death of the flower. With all this, you should try not to put it near the radiators, which is not easy, especially if its place is on the windowsill. More on this later.

Air humidity and watering. You can not overdry the ground, because even because of one overdrying, the plant will begin to lose leaves. At the same time, stagnant water is unacceptable, as the roots can rot. You need to choose something in between and always monitor the condition of the soil. This indoor flower is prone to high transpiration - the evaporation of moisture through the leaves. This ability of it leads to the rapid drying of the soil in the pot, which must be taken into account.

In the summer, the plant should be watered abundantly and often, and by autumn, gradually reduce the number of waterings and leave until spring 1-2 days after the topsoil dries. In this case, it all depends on the temperature in the room, since if it is very hot, the earth will dry out faster, and more frequent watering will be needed. The main thing is not to let the soil dry out completely.

Humidity should be high all year round. This is especially important in winter, when the air in the room is very dry. Once or twice a day you need to spray Fittonia. If this is not possible, then the pot is placed in a tray filled with wet pebbles, expanded clay or moss. It is necessary to avoid such a common mistake as putting the pot in the water. In no case should its bottom come into contact with water.

How to transplant. Fittonia grows very quickly, so it is better to replant it annually. This is especially important for young plants. For an adult, a transplant is acceptable after 2-3 years. For transplantation, you need to take the following composition of the earth:

• One part of humus
• One piece of peat
• Three pieces of leafy land
• One piece of sand

An important condition for transplantation is good drainage.

The root system of Fittonia is located superficially, so you should choose a wide and small pot. In such dishes, the flower will look even more catchy.

How to propagate. This can be done in several ways - layering, cuttings or dividing the bush (the simplest of them). The division is carried out in the spring, while when transplanting, the roots must be divided and transplanted into different pots. The method of propagation by cuttings is also simple. In this case, spring or summer apical stalk 6-7 cm long, on which there are 3-5 leaves, transplanted into wet sand. You can also use peat tablets, peat and sphagnum moss.

The planted plant is covered from above with a cap, which can be a package, a glass jar, and so on. The taken stalk is also allowed to simply be put into the water, without pouring too much of it. The water level in the tank should be no more than 1 cm. This is necessary for good saturation of the water with oxygen. The container in which the stalk stands is also covered with a cap. With any method, the cutting should be periodically opened and sprayed.

Suitable for breeding Fittonia and layering. This method is well known to those summer residents who propagated gooseberries. A long shoot of the plant is taken, from which the leaves must be removed, and directly on the mother plant it is added dropwise to this or, if desired, to another pot. After the young flower takes root, it is separated from the mother plant. It is worth paying attention that over time, Fittonia grows and loses its attractive appearance. Because of this, it needs to be updated frequently.

How to cut and shape a bush. To make the bush lush, be sure to pinch the tops of the shoots. This is most important for young plants. According to observations, after 3-4 years, due to the growth of Fittonia, it becomes bare Bottom part which doesn't look very pretty. If there is no opportunity or desire to grow a new plant, you can rejuvenate the old one. For this, old shoots are cut off, but not entirely. Fittonia should have leaves, so it is better to cut it in several stages. But it is still better to grow a young flower.

The indoor plant Fittonia has a difficult character, and if you think that you will plant it in a beautiful pot and it will grow by itself, without any participation on your part, then you are mistaken. You will have to study the nature and preferences of this tropical beauty, and create conditions at home that are similar to those to which she is accustomed to in her natural habitat. Wild species of Fittonia are generally not able to survive at home. Once this sissy was grown exclusively in greenhouses - only there it was possible to create wet tropical conditions which she loves so much. But, at present, breeders have bred varieties that are not so picky about high humidity and the temperature of the content, and the care of Fittonia at home, even beginner flower growers have become capable of doing. And what a riot of colors can be seen in hybrid varieties this flower! Under natural conditions, it looks much more modest.

The rules for caring for this rather capricious tropical guest are generally not complicated. We draw your attention to the fact that the larger Fittonia looks, the more care she demands. If you do not have a paludarium or showcase adapted for growing it in your house, then it is better to purchase a small compact specimen. you can read in the corresponding article, and here we will introduce you to the basic rules for growing a flower.

Lighting and flower locations

Adequate lighting is necessary for Fittonia to maintain the bright color of its leaves and a healthy decorative flower appearance all year round. The plant does not like extremes. She's not the best shade plant, but certainly the most fearful sun. She loves natural diffused light in summer, but not the sunny windowsills of the southern windows. Fittonia leaves lose their amazing coloring both from excess lighting and from its lack. Place the plant pot next to a window facing west or east on a shelf or coffee table, in partial shade. AT wild nature the flower does not get direct sunlight at all. It is not surprising that at home, direct sun, even in the morning and evening hours, can destroy it. The flower will also not withstand drafts and sudden changes in temperature, therefore it is better not to take it out to unprotected balconies and verandas for the summer - let it better remain in its familiar room environment.

In winter, the south direction of the windowsill is preferable to others, but put the plant pot away from heating appliances so as not to provoke the flower to drop leaves. During the winter months, Fittonia does well under a fluorescent lamp or phytolamp.

Florarium and paludarium

Some growers grow Fittonia in transparent plastic or glass containers, even ordinary ones. glass jars. Choose a container with a tight-fitting glass lid. At the bottom, a little soil suitable for growing Fittonia is poured and moistened. Gently plant the plant and close the jar. When condensation forms in the jar, remove the lid, ventilate the container for two hours and close it again. This procedure will have to be performed for some time, but after 10 days, the release of condensate should stop - the microclimate necessary for the plant will be established in the bank. To decorate the composition, beautiful pebbles, marble chips, decorative clay figurines and other lovers of the tropical environment - moss, miniature ferns, some types of orchids - are placed in a jar with a flower. It turns out a very unusual, but spectacular decoration of the interior of the room.

But this method of growing a flower has its weaknesses. In greenhouse conditions, Fittonia will grow very quickly, and pinching and pruning the plant, and even more so transplanting it, through the narrow neck of the jar is quite problematic.

Then lovers of this tropical sissy acquire an aquarium for growing Fittonia, a special semi-closed transparent, made of glass or plastic, resembling an aquarium for breeding fish - a florarium.

florarium

There are many advantages to growing like this:

1. Fittonia will be protected from drafts, temperature changes, drying out of the soil. Water the flower should be no more than one or two times a month.
2. Most often, these florariums have a wide throat and a rounded shape, which allows for manipulations with pinching and cutting off excess shoots. Fittonia in aquariums should not be allowed to grow too much, as the bush grows, it needs to be thinned out.
3. There is no need to constantly monitor the humidity of the air, since the evaporated moisture is all retained inside the closed aquarium. Just try to provide the plant with good lighting so that the flower does not stop growing.
4. Florariums look good and fit into the interior of the apartment.

But, growing Fittonia in it can also end in failure if you have little experience in such flower content - you can damage it when transplanting or cleaning the aquarium, or overfeed it with fertilizers, pour water when watering and provoke root rot.

And finally, Fittonia can be grown in paludariums. This is an interesting, but the most expensive and time-consuming way to grow tropical sissy at home. big cost requires the purchase of a spacious transparent landing tank and special equipment to maintain the optimal level of illumination and humidity in it. With good lighting, Fittonia will not suffer if its roots are completely in the water. However, it is better to place a plant with a well-developed root system in the paludarium. When cleaning the aquarium, try to disturb its guest as little as possible - from any mechanical damage to the roots, it can rot and die. Paludarium has a significant advantage in terms of crop production compared to other methods of growing it. Fittonia grows well in it in a terrestrial, semi-submerged and even underwater version. The necessary lighting and humidity are supported by technical means. All kinds of streams and fountains create ideal conditions for the existence in the paludariums of all types of Fittonia, without exception.

Temperature

The plant does not like too cold and too hot ambient air. Does not tolerate drafts and sudden changes in temperature. Optimum temperature its year-round content is 21 ° C, but an acceptable temperature should be in the range of 20 - 25 ° C. Temperature below 16 - 18 °C. with high humidity and soil, Fittonia may not survive.

Ambient humidity and spraying

High humidity is the most important factor in Fittonia's well-being. Humidity less than 65% is considered critical. Optimal Humidity air tends to 85%. To do this, it is necessary to regularly, in the morning and in the evening, spray the leaves of the plant and the surrounding area from a small spray bottle with slightly warm settled water. Moreover, this must be done even in the winter months, when the air in the premises becomes especially dry due to the operation of heating devices. It would be nice to have a humidifier in the room. Pallets with wet expanded clay or moss will increase the humidity, in which you can put pots of Fittonia.

The root system of the plant reacts negatively both to the drying of the soil and to its generous waterlogging - the leaves immediately begin to wither. Watering Fittonia in summer should be regular and plentiful, 2-3 times a week, and in winter once a week is enough. It is necessary to pour water into the pot until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface of the soil, and excess water appears in the pan. Drain it after 30 minutes. Now you will be sure that the entire earth ball is completely saturated. Constantly check the moisture content of the substrate, and when the top layer of soil in the pot dries out a little, then you can and should water again. Water for watering Fittonia should be warm and settled during the day. Ideally, melt, rain or distilled water is suitable. Often, you have to water the usual, tap water, which includes compounds of chlorine, fluorine and calcium. We advise you to add a couple of drops to such water before watering. lemon juice or 2 - 3 crystals citric acid, let it stand for a day, so that all impurities precipitate and only then use Fittonia for watering.

Remember that the flower will still withstand temporary drying of the soil, after watering the turgor will recover, although it will lose some of the leaves. But from excessive watering and stagnant water in the pan, the roots of the plant can rot, and it will die - it is almost impossible to stop the rotting of the root system.

Bottom watering for Fittonia is not suitable categorically!

top dressing

From spring to autumn, Fittonia can be fed twice a month; in winter, it is enough to feed once a month. For this, liquid mineral fertilizers for decorative leafy plants, only in doses reduced by 2 times than indicated on the packages. It is sometimes possible to combine plant nutrition with spraying, i.e. add liquid fertilizer into the water to spray the flower.

We do not recommend using wax-based leaf products that are now fashionable, as they create an airtight layer on the leaf surface that prevents normal leaf photosynthesis.

soil and pot

For Fittonia, purchased soil for Azaleas, Violets or Geraniums is suitable. If you prefer to prepare the substrate yourself, pay attention to the fact that it is loose, moisture and breathable, able to retain moisture well. Mix two parts of soddy and coniferous land and one part of dry peat and river sand.

Choose a pot for Fittonia not deep, but wide. The entire root system of the plant is located within ten cm below the soil surface and grows in breadth. Let the pot be ceramic in the form of a bowl, with a mandatory drainage hole in the bottom. If the diameter of your pot is smaller than the height, then at least a quarter of the pot should be occupied by drainage - expanded clay or pebbles, otherwise moisture will stagnate in it, and the flower will suffer from dampness and excessive soil moisture.

Plant transplant

Young Fittonia bushes should be transplanted every spring into new pots, slightly larger than the old ones. mature plant can be transplanted not so often, once every two to three years. To transplant a fragile plant, the flower transshipment method is used along with earthy clod into a new landing tank. We advise you to immediately transplant Fittonia bought in a store into a suitable substrate, since store soil usually does not meet the requirements of a tropical beauty. We repeat, transplant carefully, trying not to damage the fragile roots of the plant, along with a clod of earth. Trim any shoots that are too long. Water. If the soil settles a lot, add it so that there are no voids in the pot and the roots do not look out. If the landing capacity is wide enough, several Fittonia can be placed in it at once different types- the composition is very effective. After transplantation, the plant is kept in a shady place until its growth resumes.

pruning

In order for Fittonia to bush, as well as to stimulate it to more intensive branching, the shoots are regularly pinched or cut to a quarter of their length. This maintains the decorative appearance of the plant. In addition, over time, in two or three years, the stem will become bare from below. Pruning the stem and pinching the shoots will also help - a rejuvenating effect will occur, and the lost decorative effect will return to the flower. Just do not cut all the shoots at once - the leaves should remain on Fittonia. Cut the old shoots into a stump one by one, wait until the young shoots appear at the previously cut stem. Sometimes such pruning stretches for a year or two, but do not cut off all the shoots completely - you can ruin your beauty.

By the way, the cut parts of the plant can be used for their rooting and flower propagation.

Lifespan

According to statistics, a novice amateur grower Fittonia lives in a beautiful decorative form for no more than six months, then problems begin. The plant loses its decorative effect and often dies. Experienced flower growers, who managed to create ideal growing conditions for a tropical sissy, will be able to admire the wonderful leaves of their beauty - Fittonia for several years. After these years, the old plant is replaced with its young generation using one of the propagation methods described below.

Reproduction of Fittonia

If you have only one amazingly beautiful Fittonia bush, you just need to think about its reproduction - you never know what can happen to it? We will tell you how you can propagate this flower at home, and you will choose the method that is most suitable for you.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

This method of reproduction is the simplest and most dangerous - you can get several new plants at once or lose, in case of unsuccessful division, all at once. In the spring, during a plant transplant, an adult overgrown bush can be divided into several parts. To do this, take Fittonia out of the pot, straighten, as neatly as possible, its roots and upper shoots so that each part, when divided, has them equally. With a sharp clean tool (knife, scalpel), cut the plant into two or three parts. Powder the incisions with crushed activated or charcoal. Plant each part in your pot according to all the transplant rules, water it. To create a greenhouse effect and better get used to the bush to a new substrate, you can put each pot for a couple of weeks in plastic bag by closing it tightly. After the pot is removed from the bag and put in the place allotted for the young.

Propagation of Fittonia by cuttings (apical shoots)

Choose a pair of cuttings on a healthy plant - three cuttings, about 10 cm long, which have three to four leaves. Cut them off with a sharp, clean knife or pruner. Remove the bottom pair of leaves. The operation is carried out in spring or summer. Choose cuttings on such shoots that grow inside the bush or are too long - it's a pity to cut off the necessary shoots and spoil the decorative appearance of a bright beauty. Plant the prepared cuttings in small plastic cups with a substrate of river, coarse sand and peat in equal proportions. Water and cover them with a bag or other plastic cup to create a greenhouse effect. Put the greenhouse in a warm, not sunny place. The rooting temperature should be constant within 21 - 22 °C. Ventilate the greenhouse from time to time, moisten the substrate if necessary. It will take a month and a half before you notice the appearance of young shoots - this means that the rooting of the cutting was successful. They need to be transplanted into permanent small flower pots with the appropriate soil (for azaleas or geraniums) and cared for like adult plants.

Sometimes, apical cuttings are rooted in a container of water. Water is taken settled, with the addition of a part of an activated carbon tablet to it. No more than one cm of water is poured into the jar - the stalk must breathe, be saturated with oxygen. They cover everything with a bag or other materials to create a greenhouse effect in the bank. The stalk is periodically, every two to three days, sprayed, water is added to the jar if necessary, the greenhouse is ventilated, the temperature is kept at least 25 - 26 ° C and they make sure that the stalk does not change its appearance, does not turn black. A month and a half later, when the cuttings have good roots, it can be transplanted to permanent place into a pot.

This breeding method is more complex. On the mother plant, look for a young, fairly long shoot suitable for rooting. He needs to remove all the leaves, except for the top ones. Sometimes an already bare shoot of an adult Fittonia is used for reproduction. Bend this shoot to the ground, sprinkle with soil and secure with a hairpin or something similar in the same pot, if there is extra space, or in another, smaller pot. Moisturize as usual. Do not separate the shoot from the mother bush! Try to maintain a constant temperature of at least 21°C. Over time, you will see that the shoot has taken root, young shoots have appeared. Then you can separate it from the mother bush and plant it in a separate pot as an independent plant. Use a clean, disinfected tool. Hold the transplanted new plant under a film for some time, as if in a greenhouse, let it get used to the new place of residence. This is how Fittonia Anna is propagated - a very decorative hybrid of a plant with white veins on a dark green leaf surface.

In a spacious and wide flower vase creeping shoots of some species of Fittonia take root themselves in view of the characteristics of their growth.

Fittonia diseases and other growing problems

In spite of capricious character flower, diseases of an infectious and fungal nature in Fitonia occur quite rarely. More often there are problems associated with violations of the conditions of the flower by their owner. Here are some of the most common flower problems:

• With excessive watering, the roots of the plant rot, the shoots at the base, the leaves wither and turn yellow. Water the flower only after the topsoil dries out from the previous watering.
• From the direct rays of the sun, the flower receives sunburn. The leaves lose color, become thin, brittle and dry out. Remove the pot from the windowsill deep into the room, cut off the damaged leaves.
• From dry hot air, the leaves wrinkle, lose their bright color, their tips become dry and brown. Plant growth is noticeably slower. Under such conditions, the plant can be attacked by spider mites. Remove damaged leaves from the plant, increase the humidity in the room by all means, regularly spray the plant and the surrounding area, and from ticks, treat the flower with insecticides.
• At constant watering plants cold water, spots appear on the leaves. The plant will become sick and may die. Water the heat-loving guest with water at room temperature or slightly above temperature.
• From a lack of moisture in the soil, the leaves curl, spots appear on them. Adjust the amount and frequency of watering. Remove damaged leaves.
• From too low an air temperature for Fittonia and waterlogging of the soil, the stems wither and begin to rot. If the heating is turned off for a long time in the apartment, and you continue to water abundantly, the plant may suddenly die. To prevent this from happening, monitor the temperature, if necessary, turn on the heaters. We remind you that when the temperature drops below 18 degrees, Fittonia dies.
• From a lack of lighting, the shoots stretch out, the leaves grow dull, the plant loses its decorative effect. Move the pot closer to the light. If natural light is not available, use artificial light from a fluorescent lamp or a phyto lamp.
• From mechanical damage to the roots after transplantation, even with regular watering, the leaves remain sluggish and lifeless. This is a sign of root rot. The flower must be removed from the pot, cut off the affected roots to healthy ones, treat the cut points with crushed wood or activated carbon. Remove diseased leaves and shoots. It is necessary to plant the treated plant in a new nutrient soil. Put the pot in a plastic bag and close it for several days, so that in this greenhouse Fittonia can more easily cope with the problem and take root in a new place.
• If the soil is poor in nutrients, yellow-brown borders appear along the edges of the leaves. The same picture occurs when the humidity in the room is too low. Think about the last time you fed a plant. If it was recently, the problem is the dry air in the room. It is necessary to increase the humidity of the air by all means available to you. (see above). Don't forget to feed your plants too.
• If the stems at the bottom of the bush began to become bare in an adult plant, then this is a natural process and indicates that it is time to rejuvenate the plant. Begin to gradually cut off the old shoots. Be patient. As soon as the previously cut shoot has fresh leaves, you can cut next escape. In one fell swoop, all shoots cannot be cut off - the plant may die.

Analyze how you care for Fittonia, correct the mistakes. It will take a little time, and the plant will again become healthy and surprisingly beautiful.

Fittonia pests

Thrips, scale insects, spider mites, and are considered dangerous pests for Fittonia.

If you are not afraid of difficulties, if you are interested in growing unfamiliar tropical plants, which are also so amazing and diverse in shape and color, you will love this original exotic beauty Fittonia. Taking on its cultivation for beginners is risky, but entertaining. If you treat this interesting activity with full responsibility, success is guaranteed to you!

Fittonia immediately attracts attention with its original colors, the planting of this flower looks like a multi-colored clearing. Most amateur flower growers value the plant precisely for its decorative appearance. It is important to understand that only proper care will allow Fittonia to feel comfortable at home.

plant description

Fittonia belongs to the herbaceous plants of the acanthus family. The birthplace of the flower is considered South America. This is a low-growing plant with numerous shoots. On the oval leaves of Fittonia, one can observe intricate patterns in the form of a mesh of purple-red, yellow or white shades.

Fittonia is quite difficult to keep in room conditions. The flower grower will have to try to make her feel comfortable at home.

Fittonia varieties for growing at home: skeleton, white and others

AT indoor floriculture 4 varieties of Fittonia are the most common. Each of them has a number of features.

Table: Features of Popular Types of Fittonia

Photo of Fittonia varieties

Fittonia skeleton has a bright shimmering leaf color.

Verschafelta - the most popular variety of Fittonia for growing at home

Fittonia Perseus, like other species, blooms rather inconspicuously.

In Fittonia White Anna, the edges of the leaves have an emerald border.

Fittonia Josan is popular

Growing conditions

Most often, Fittonia of the Verschaffelt species is grown indoors. In order for her to feel as comfortable as possible, certain conditions must be created.

Table: optimal conditions for keeping Fittonia Verschaffelt

The nuances of landing and transplantation

Fittonia needs to be repotted annually. in early spring. A store-bought plant is left alone for a week. After this period, Fittonia is transplanted. To ensure the comfort of the plant, it is important to choose the right pot, prepare the soil.

Pot selection

The roots of Fittonia are located close to the surface, so a deep pot is not required for this plant. However, it should be wide enough. Perfect option- a pot about 8 cm high and about 18 cm wide.

Wide and low pots are best suited for Fittonia.

Important! The pot must have drainage holes through which excess moisture will be removed.

Soil preparation

Fittonia is suitable for light and fairly loose soil. If you decide to buy it in a store, it is best to opt for soils intended for growing violets and geraniums. At self-cooking soil should be mixed with coniferous or soddy soil with peat, as well as sand in proportions of 2: 1: 1.

Before planting Fittonia, drainage should be laid at the bottom of the pot. For this purpose, you can use expanded clay, pebbles and chipped bricks.

Important! Drainage and soil mixture for fittonia must first be disinfected. To do this, they are poured with boiling water or heated in the oven.

Transplant instructions

Before transplanting, it is necessary to shorten the long shoots of Fittonia. After that, the following sequence of actions is performed:

1. The selected drainage is poured at the bottom of the pot, 1–2 cm of soil is covered on top of it.
2. The plant is carefully removed from the old pot, being careful not to damage the roots.
3. Excess soil is gently shaken off.
4. The root system is inspected for rot. If they find it, carefully cut it off sharp knife damaged roots. The cut points are sprinkled with crushed coal.
5. Fittonia is installed in a new pot, fresh soil is poured on the sides and top.
6. The flower is watered abundantly, excess water is poured out of the pan.

Video: features of a plant transplant

Fittonia Care

In order for Fittonia to feel comfortable and delight its owner, it is important to provide it with proper care.

Watering rules

Fittonia is a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, the soil in the pot should always be wet. The next watering session in the summer should be carried out when the topsoil is slightly dry. In winter, it is better to wait another day. At the same time with good watering it is necessary to prevent stagnation of water, as this can lead to rotting of the roots.

How to determine optimal amount water for irrigation? Watering should be until excess moisture gets into the pan. After 30 minutes, the remaining water must be drained.

The temperature of the water used for watering Fittonia should be about 4 ° C above room temperature. The best option is melt water or rainwater. Water from the water supply should be defended for at least three days. If it is too hard, you can soften it with a little citric acid.

Important! Fittonia contraindicated lower watering (through the pan).

Feeding features

For natural development fittonia use complex liquid preparations for indoor flowers, but halve the recommended concentration. For these purposes, fertilizer brands Ideal, Baikal, Kemira-Lux are perfect.

At correct top dressing fittonia will delight in appearance

In summer, the procedure should be carried out every 2-3 weeks. In winter, the plant does not need to be fed.

For Fittonia, you can not use leaf products that contain wax, as they violate natural process photosynthesis.

Fittonia bloom

Fittonia flowers are completely inconspicuous, similar to small spikelets of a sulfur-yellow hue. They appear from July to October. With proper care, the plant will bloom annually.

Fittonia flowering is a nondescript process

Bush formation

Fittonias that have reached the age of four years begin to lose their lower leaves. As a result, the decorativeness of the plant is significantly reduced due to the exposure of the stem.

To make Fittonia more beautiful, you can use the trimming procedure. Spend it in the spring - before the stage active growth or during the transplant procedure. For this purpose, long shoots are shortened by approximately 2/3.

Important! The number of shortened shoots should not be more than half, otherwise Fittonia may not have enough energy to grow.

It cannot be said that Fittonia is required to provide a dormant period. However, the decorative effect may decrease in winter due to the shortening of daylight hours. At this time, the color of the leaves becomes paler. To avoid this, fittonia should be slowed down. To do this, reduce watering, and also exclude top dressing.

Typical Care Mistakes

In the process of growing Fittonia, flower growers often face a number of problems, the elimination of which is extremely important for proper cultivation plants.

Table: elimination of typical mistakes in care

Table: Fittonia diseases and pests

Plant propagation

Fittonia propagates quite easily by apical cuttings, stems, dividing bushes and even seeds. It is best to breed from spring to autumn.

The optimal time to start breeding is the period of active growth of Fittonia, which occurs in early spring.

With the help of cuttings

To propagate Fittonia cuttings, you should choose a healthy plant. After that, the following actions are performed:

1. Cut off upper part a cutting about 6 cm long, on which there are at least 4 healthy leaves.

2. Cuttings should be rooted before planting. To do this, they are installed in moistened sand or a light substrate. Suitable for this purpose and peat tablets.

The fastest way to get a new plant is by using rooted cuttings.

3. It is important to create greenhouse conditions. To do this, the cutting is covered with a jar or a rooting vessel is placed in a transparent bag and tied.

4. The greenhouse is placed in a bright, warm place. The temperature of the content at this time should be at least 26 ° C.

5. Every day, the greenhouse is slightly opened for about 5-10 minutes for ventilation. At this time, the soil and leaves are sprayed.

6. Rooting occurs after about 30 days. A sign of success is the appearance of new leaves.

Rooted cuttings are planted in a permanent place

Fittonia can also be rooted in a small amount of water.

Stem rooting

To propagate Fittonia using a stem, first of all, the selected process should be freed from excess leaves. After that, it is carefully laid on the soil and sprinkled with soil.

After about a month, the stem takes root. Such a process should be cut off from a Fittonia bush and carefully planted in a separate pot.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

The division of the Fittonia bush is best done in the spring - during transplantation. Then it is easy to separate young shoots from an adult plant. For proper conduct procedure should follow the instructions below:

1. Fittonia is removed from the pot.

2. Shake off excess earth from the roots.

3. The bush is divided into parts. This must be done very carefully so as not to disturb the root system.

Divide the bush should be extremely careful - damage to the root system can lead to the death of both plants

4. Each part of the bush is planted in a separate pot.

5. New bushes are carefully watered and cared for as usual.

Seed use

Fittonia seeds should be sown on light soil. Fall asleep from above thin layer soil (no more than half a centimeter).

For successful germination of seeds, cover the crops with glass or cellophane. Before the appearance of sprouts, the container is placed in a dark and warm place. As soon as shoots appear, the container is transferred to the light. When fittonia grow up, they are transplanted to a permanent place in pots.

Transfer

Fittonia grows very fast. Therefore, regardless of its age, it is advisable to transplant it every year. For very adult and overgrown specimens, a transplant is allowed every two years.

When transplanting, be sure to keep in mind that the Fittonia root system is not very strong, and is located close to the surface. Therefore, the pot for her must be taken wide and shallow. Otherwise, undigested moisture in a deep pot may turn sour. If the choice of dishes for transplanting is small, then you can use a tall pot, but pouring a lot of drainage material into it (at least a third of the height, or even more). But even if you use the “right” pot, good drainage is a must! The composition of the soil mixture for Fittonia is not complicated and, if desired, you can make it yourself: one part of peat, humus and sand is added to three parts of leafy soil.

Reproduction of fittonia

If you do not plan to propagate this plant, then sooner or later this procedure will have to be done. As everybody fast growing plants, Fittonia grows very quickly and becomes ugly. So it is necessary to rejuvenate it, that is, to get a young, beautiful plant.

Fittonia is easiest to propagate by division.. You will not have a shortage of material for propagation in this way. The bushes are divided in the spring, during a planned transplant. The roots are separated very easily and this will not present any particular difficulty.

Propagate Fittonia cuttings is also not particularly difficult. In the warm season (preferably late spring - early summer), an apical cutting with three to five leaves is taken from the mother plant. Then you can simply put it in a glass of water (like cuttings, etc.), wait for the roots to appear and plant it in a pot of earth. And you can root in peat, perlite, wet sand. In both cases, it is advisable to cover the rooted cuttings with any cap to create greenhouse conditions (example -). In the process of rooting, periodically ventilate the cuttings of Fittonia, spray them, and remove condensate from the cap.

The third method of propagation of fittonia - layering. This is also not a very tricky procedure. The main thing is to choose the right escape. It should be long enough and not particularly old. Part of this shoot will need to be dug in the same pot or by substituting another pot with soil next to it. The shoot itself does not separate from the mother plant, and its top should also be on the surface. The part that is dug in is previously cleared of leaves and fixed in the ground with a wire bracket (a paper clip is also suitable). When the cuttings give roots, it can be cut off from the mother plant and planted in a separate pot.

Trimming and pinching

To make Fittonia bushes beautiful and lush, pinch the tops of the shoots even at a “young” age to stimulate the growth of side branches. Sometimes rejuvenating pruning is used. As I noted above, the plant grows quickly. Approximately in the third - fourth year, the lower part of the shoots loses leaves and becomes bare, which does not add decorativeness to it. For rejuvenation, old shoots are cut, leaving only a few lower leaves on them. But this pruning is temporary. The plant still loses in decorativeness to young specimens. Much easier and more efficient to grow a new flower.

Pests

As a rule (and it applies to all indoor plants), when proper care for Fittonia at home, the appearance of diseases and pests is unlikely. But just in case, you need to be prepared for the appearance spider mite, scale insects, thrips, mealybug.

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