Many of us, having bought a boiler, are wondering: is it possible to install it with our own hands, and how complicated is this process? If you have little skills in plumbing and electrics, installing a boiler yourself should not cause you serious difficulties. In addition, installing a heating device yourself will help you save money that could be spent on paying for the services of specialists. However, the work will require strict adherence to safety regulations and, of course, the availability of the necessary tools.
A boiler is a heating device that makes life much easier for people when they are faced with a preventive shutdown of hot water in city apartments, and provides comfort in the country, where the water heater works on an ongoing basis.
The water heater may have a storage or flow device. The advantages of flow-through boilers are considered to be small size and low weight, which allows them to be mounted even on not very strong bases, for example, drywall. On the other hand, to ensure the required rate of water heating flow boilers equipped with very powerful heating elements that weak electrical wiring cannot withstand.
For fast water heating, flow-through boilers are equipped with very powerful heating elements.
The greatest demand is storage devices Because they are larger, they cost less and use less electricity. In addition, during their installation, electrical wiring is not subject to such high requirements as when installing flow-type water heaters.
Storage devices are in high demand because they are more cost-effective and do not require powerful electrical wiring.
Device storage water heater similar to the design of a household thermos. The inner tank is separated from the outer walls of the body by a rigid heat-insulating polyurethane layer to minimize heat loss. The water entering the tank is heated by a heating element (thermal electric heating element). To set the required water temperature, a thermostat integrated into the design is used.
The internal tank of the water heater is the most vulnerable structural element, since it is constantly exposed to temperature changes and negative impact substances found in water. A magnesium anode helps protect this part from corrosion.
It is made in the form of a thin round rod with a diameter of 14–25 mm and a length of 140–660 mm with a magnesium alloy layer up to 15 mm thick applied to the surface. In the immediate vicinity of the heating element, the anode is fastened with a threaded stud located in the center of the rod. Sometimes the anode is placed on the top wall of the inner tank.
Magnesium anode helps protect the internal tank of the boiler from corrosion
In addition to magnesium anodes, electric, titanium and zinc analogues are used in water heaters. But the magnesium anode is the most economical, and therefore the most popular.
Most often, low-carbon steel is used for the manufacture of internal water heater tanks. Magnesium has a valence II and is a more active metal than iron, which has a valence III. When water is heated, oxygen is produced. Magnesium binds it, thereby preventing the formation of corrosion in the tank and on the steel shell of the heating element. This process is called sacrificial protection, which is why magnesium anodes are sometimes referred to as sacrificial anodes.
The magnesium anode also prevents the formation of scale on the heating element, which is a precipitate of salts heavy metals. Since magnesium is more reactive than the iron that the tank walls are made of, these substances react with it. As a result, dense scale becomes loose, easily separated from the heating element and the walls of the tank and settles to the bottom in the form of flakes, from where it is removed during regular cleaning of the unit.
Thus, the anode-protector in the boiler performs the following functions:
Over time, the magnesium anode is gradually destroyed and dissolved in water, without changing its chemical composition and, accordingly, without harming the health of users.
Over time, the magnesium anode gradually breaks down and dissolves in water.
And yet, the anode protector needs to be changed from time to time, without waiting for its complete destruction. The frequency of replacement of this part depends on the quality (chemical composition) of the water and the intensity of use of the water heater.
When choosing a replacement for a worn anode protector, give preference to a product from a well-known manufacturer. A poor-quality magnesium element gives the water a persistent rotten smell. To check the quality of the product, make a weak solution of food grade citric acid and place a magnesium rod in it. protector made from cheap material, when reacting with an acid, it will provoke an active release of hydrogen sulfide.
Of course, the boiler can be operated without a protector anode, but the absence of this part will significantly reduce the life of the water heater. Typically, anodes are supplied with water heaters. But for replacement, this item can be purchased separately.
The need to obtain permits for the installation of a water heater in a city apartment depends on the type of device.
To connect an electric boiler, no special permit is required if the electrical network can withstand the load it creates
Installation and connection of the gas water heater must be carried out by specialists of the gas service service
But permission to install a gas water heater will not be issued to you if there is no location in the immediate vicinity of its installation ventilation duct, through which exhaust gases will be removed. Most often even in apartments with gas stoves separate channels are not provided, and bring the ventilation pipe to outer wall no one will let you at home.
If you still managed to get permission to install gas boiler, keep in mind that the fuel consumption in your apartment will increase several times. Installation gas equipment without permission can result in fines.
Art. 7.19 Administrative Code of the Russian Federation
Unauthorized connection to electric networks, heat networks, oil pipelines, oil product pipelines and gas pipelines, as well as unauthorized (unregistered) use of electrical, thermal energy, oil, gas or oil products, if these actions do not contain a criminally punishable act, shall entail imposition administrative fine for citizens in the amount of ten thousand to fifteen thousand rubles; on the officials- from thirty thousand to eighty thousand rubles or disqualification for a period of one to two years; for legal entities - from one hundred thousand to two hundred thousand roubles.
Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation
http://koapkodeksrf.ru/
Therefore, before purchasing such a device, consider whether you need it, or whether you should limit yourself to an electric water heater, which is much less troublesome in terms of installation and operation.
AT small apartment the best place to place the boiler may be the space under the sink in the kitchen or in the combined bathroom. An electrical appliance hidden in this way will not spoil the interior design. However, not all types of boilers are suitable for installation under the sink.
The boiler hidden under the sink will not spoil the interior design
Due to the limited space under the sink, storage or flow heater water with a capacity of up to 25 liters. The water in such a device is heated by a heating element or an open electric heater. gas device due to its high capacity and therefore its considerable dimensions, it is suitable for mounting exclusively on a wall or on a free space on the floor.
Another feature: in a water heater designed for installation under a sink, the pipe supply must be located at the top. You should definitely pay attention to this when buying a device. A boiler with a different location for the supply of hoses will also fit in size, but it will be inconvenient to install. In addition, such a device will not function correctly and will quickly fail.
Self-assembly electric water heater will cost you less than the services of specialists. On average, the job will take about two hours. But in preparation for installation and directly in the process of performing work, you must follow the safety rules.
When installing a water heater, it is necessary to take into account the condition of the electrical wiring in the house, the bearing capacity of the wall on which the device will be mounted, as well as the risers and water supply pipes.
Wall-mounted boilers are not only vertical, but also horizontal
You can check the strength of the wall in the following way: mount the fasteners that come with the boiler and hang two bags of cement on it. If the mount can cope with such a load, then it will be able to withstand a water heater, which weighs half as much.
Particular attention should be paid to checking the strength of the wall when installing a large 150-liter boiler. The fastening of such a unit is made on spacer metal anchor bolts or special strong hooks. Anchors are recommended to be used with a length of 100 mm and a diameter of 10 mm.
Be very serious about checking the wiring. If overloaded, it may start to melt, which will lead to a fire.
It should be borne in mind that the installation of a water heater will require the efforts of two people, since this process is quite laborious. Usually the boiler is mounted in the bathroom or in toilet room directly above the toilet. As a rule, this place is not used in any way. At the same time, a free approach should be provided to it.
AT small room to save usable space, the boiler is usually placed horizontally. A small water heater is attached to the wall, and units with a volume of 200 liters or more are installed on the floor.
If the volume of the boiler exceeds 200 liters, it must be installed on the floor
Before proceeding with the installation of the boiler, prepare the following tools, materials and equipment:
To connect a powerful instantaneous water heater, if the wiring does not provide for the connection of electric stoves, you will need a three-core PVA 3x8 copper cable, a meter that can withstand a current of at least 40 A, a socket block with grounding, a 40 A machine and an insulating tape.
Ideally, the water heater should be mounted on solid brick, concrete or block walls, since the appliance, along with water, is quite heavy. But sometimes the device needs to be hung on a thin plasterboard, frame, wooden, aerated concrete or foam block base. In this case, it will be necessary to strengthen the wall and use special fasteners.
It is impossible to mount the water heater directly on a wooden wall for reasons of fire safety. To begin with, it must be well insulated from heat, for example, with profiled iron, which is used for roofing.
In other cases, special fasteners are used:
If you plan to hang the water heater on a wall of foam concrete blocks, you will need metal dowels or special chemical (adhesive) anchors for foam concrete. A chemical anchor is a versatile fastener that can withstand high loads. It is environmentally friendly and resistant to low temperatures.
The expansion dowel is held in the wall due to friction forces in the expansion joint, and the chemical anchor is held in place due to the adhesion of a special adhesive composition.
Fastening to the adhesive anchor is carried out in the following way:
The resulting cone-shaped plug provides a fairly high fastening strength.
For installation in hollow structures, an anchor sleeve is inserted into the hole, and a hairpin is already twisted into it
Installation of a water heater of a flow and storage system is carried out in the same way. Before starting work, it is important to read the instructions that come with the device. If there is no such manual, it can be downloaded from the Internet.
When choosing a location for installation fasteners it is necessary to check the position of the lower and top edge boiler housing
AT drilled holes anchors with metal hooks are inserted and twisted, and then the boiler is hung on them
In the absence of pre-prepared bends, they will have to be made independently from metal-plastic or plastic pipes
The safety valve is vented overpressure water during operation
A rubber gasket is installed in the fastening nut of the flexible hose, so it can be screwed onto the pipe without an intermediate seal (linen, FUM tape, sealing cord, etc.)
The pipe through which cold water will flow into the boiler is connected through a ball valve
Before installing a water heater in the bathroom, make sure you have a hot water circulation system. This will help to minimize energy losses with the constant presence of hot water in the pipes.
Some boilers come with a cable with a plug connected to the unit. If these elements are not available, then they are purchased separately.
Always follow safety precautions when working with electricity to avoid accidents.
In order to save electricity, the boiler can be connected via a time relay. This will allow you to turn off the water heating late at night or during the day when it is not needed. If a heat accumulator is connected to the water heater, it can, on the contrary, be turned on at night, when the tariff for electricity consumption is lower than during the day. During the day, it will automatically turn off.
Consider the option of connecting the boiler through the time relay ABB AT1-R. It can be either with a battery inside or without it. The battery inside the mechanism allows you to work offline for 200 hours.
The relay allows you to turn on the power of an electrical device only at certain periods of time
The line supplying the water heater will go from the shield located in the furnace room directly to the device. The time relay of this model is equipped with one contact for closing. Depending on the type of boiler, it has the ability to switch a resistive load up to 16 A.
The device has a scale indicating the values of time intervals. Four divisions indicate intervals of 15 minutes. Thus, the time intervals can be set equal to 15, 30 and 45 minutes.
Initially, when voltage is applied to the time relay, the connected load will be in the on state. This means that with the help of the levers we will set the load off time.
To independently disconnect the load, you must move the red lever located next to the time scale to position 1.
After that, you need to set the response time. Try to choose an even hour for this, for example, 18:00 or a multiple of 15 minutes: 18:15, 18:30, 18:45. To set the time, you need to turn the drum until the desired reading on the scale matches the white lever next to the “1-0” mark.
In order for the boiler to retain heat better, it must be wrapped with polypropylene foam, polyurethane foam or isolon. The insulating material is fixed with glue or wire. Thermal insulation of the entire surface of the boiler not only helps to retain heat, but also reduces the heating time of water by increasing the efficiency of the coolant. High-quality insulation will not allow the water to cool quickly.
High-quality insulation will not allow the water to cool quickly
The second way to insulate the boiler is to place a smaller container inside a large tank. The resulting space acts as a heater.
The space between the walls of the tanks acts as a heater
And yet, if you realize that you are unable to install the boiler yourself, or there is a need to replace the pipes due to wear and tear, contact the specialists. Their services will not cost you too much: dismantling an old water heater - about 500 rubles, installing and connecting a new device - about 7,000 rubles. In this case, you will be sure that the equipment is connected correctly and you will not have an accident or explosion. There is one more important point: when installing the boiler yourself, as a rule, the manufacturer's warranty is canceled.
A variety of ways to arrange modern plumbing systems allows you to perform the procedure for installing and connecting a water heating boiler with your own hands. True, this does not apply to all types of boilers, but only to the most commonly used - electric ones.
The most commonly used water heating boiler is electric, closed, pressure type, we will talk about his choice and connection.
When choosing this type of water boiler, you need to understand the differences between their designs. First of all - the size. To determine it, you need to calculate the daily consumption of hot water. If you have a meter on your cold water supply pipe, then you can determine the average daily consumption rate by measuring its readings over several days. About half of the total should be hot.
Practice shows that in order to provide for a family of 3-4 people, if a shower is used for bathing, the boiler capacity should be from 50 to 70 liters. If a bath is installed in the house, then its minimum volume should not be less than 100 liters
Moreover, these calculations are relatively fair if your appliances that consume hot water are located quite close to each other. If the bathroom is far from the kitchen, then you should think about installing a separate 10-liter kitchen boiler or installing an instantaneous water heater.
The second most important aspect taken into account when choosing a boiler is the characteristics of tap water. If yours is too hard, then you should choose more expensive models with closed shadows, in which the heating elements are located in sealed glass or ceramic flasks.
The same applies to the material of the heating tanks themselves, or their coating:
To increase the corrosion resistance of boilers, magnesium anodes are placed in them, which require periodic replacement.
The design of an electric boiler is quite simple and partly resembles an electric kettle. Actually, the presence of this anode, and the system for taking heated water from the top of the tank, distinguishes them. The operating time of the heaters is regulated by a thermostat, depending on set temperature water heating.
There are combined boilers indirect heating when a coil is also placed in the water-heating tank, through which the coolant from the heating system passes, heating the water in the boiler in addition to heating elements.
It is clear that connecting such a boiler is somewhat more complicated than an electric one, but a good home master is quite capable of doing it.
The next parameter to consider when choosing a boiler is its power. It is clear that the higher it is, the faster the water will heat up, but the load on the power grid will be greater. The power of a 50-liter boiler is 1.5 - 2 kW, respectively: a 100-liter 3 - 4 kW is considered optimal. But do not forget to find out what loads your intra-apartment or intra-house network can withstand so that, in pursuit of high power indicators, do not exceed the total permissible loads otherwise, when the boiler is turned on, the automation will simply turn off the power supply.
The last point when choosing a boiler is its shape. They are:
a) vertical;
b) horizontal.
Can be hung on the wall or placed on the floor. The latter is usually used with large capacity boilers.
Most often, the wiring of water systems has recently been carried out with polypropylene pipes, welded using a special soldering iron. Working with it is not very difficult, but buying it to install one boiler is unjustified. Moreover, fitting systems with metal-plastic pipes are no less reliable than those mentioned. You can read everything about fittings, but we recommend using crimp (collet) fittings to connect the boiler.
To switch from one type of pipes already available in your home to those offered, you can use the so-called. vampire tee.
Most often it is used to switch from a metal water pipe to a plastic one, but it will work just as well on a polypropylene pipe. To install it, the water in the line is blocked and drained through one of the taps. Then a hole O 10 - 12 mm is drilled in the pipe and a tee is installed. Further wiring is carried out by pipes of the selected system.
And besides metal-plastic with fittings, even simpler connections can be used - flexible hoses in a metal braid.
Only when choosing them, preference should be given to manufacturers that produce guaranteed high-quality goods.
They should be divided into 2 subsections and considered separately:
First of all, when installing the boiler, you should make sure that stop valves on the water supply line in front of it, in order to be able to disconnect from common system water supply for Maintenance and possible replacement in the future.
If the boiler, in addition to the cold water supply system, is also connected to a system with hot water, then a stopcock is also placed on it so that the water heated in it does not drain into common network. When the boiler is in operation, it is kept closed.
Also after the tap on the cold line will be useful installation reducer that reduces pressure to 2 - 3 atm., which will be quite enough for normal operation systems. But the device itself, it will protect against excessive pressure. Before directly entering cold water into the boiler, it is worth installing another tap so as not to turn off the entire system for manipulating the device itself.
For pressure boilers closed type it is obligatory to install a safety valve included in the package of the new device. Firstly, it does not allow heated water to flow back into the cold mains, and secondly, it dumps excess water that has expanded after heating. Without it, the operation of such boilers can lead to explosive consequences. Such a valve is placed in standard schemes connections immediately before entering cold water into the boiler, and the drain pipe is led to the nearest sewer entry point. If the boiler is installed above the toilet, it is led out into a free hole in the upper part drain tank toilet. There are always 2 of them: for the convenience of connecting the tank, and one of them is free.
To help - a video about the mistakes made when connecting the boiler:
A more advanced boiler connection scheme includes the installation of a tee with a tap above safety valve. It allows you to urgently drain the water from the boiler if necessary or use the boiler as a storage tank for water in case of emergency shutdown.
The main thing is that when draining it, be sure to turn off the heating, otherwise the heaters may fail. About the most rational improvement of the system when installing such a tee with a tap - in the following video:
Such a tee is placed exclusively on a cold line, because it is entered at the bottom of the boiler, and the hot intake tube is at the top.
Often the piping system is hidden in the wall in the strobes or is generally taken out of it - into the utility room or pantry, leaving only the safety valve visible.
The connection scheme for a kitchen boiler is no different from that for a conventional one, only most often upside down.
The electrical connection is carried out with wires of a section corresponding to the capacity of the boiler. There are 2 contacts on the boiler for this.
The third one is brought to the mass of the tena body or the outer casing of the boiler itself. Usually in apartments there is no grounding system to which it should be connected. In this case, you should perform such a connection scheme.
In it, the RCD will play the role of grounding, only it should be selected without exceeding the rating, otherwise it may not be able to fully cope with the task.
When hanging a water boiler on the wall, there is only one rule: reliable fastening, corresponding to the total weight of the boiler and the water in it. Choose it in accordance with the material of the wall on which the boiler is attached, and take care of at least one and a half margin of the maximum load it can withstand.
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To provide a home with hot water, many methods are used: gas water heaters, flow and storage boilers. If for some reason it is not possible to use geyser, then the choice of the boiler remains an alternative option. Moreover, it is not difficult to connect such a water heater with your own hands.
Before connecting the water heater, it should be noted that the units are divided into flow and storage. Powerful heating elements are installed in the flow-through design, which provide rapid heating of the liquid flowing past them.
Storage water heaters have capacities different sizes. To keep the temperature in the tank, it has good thermal insulation. Storage boilers can be divided into types:
In devices of this type, heating elements are located inside the tank, which provide heating of the liquid. When the boiler has already been connected to the water supply, cold water is supplied from below, and the already heated one comes out through the top of the tank.
The liquid temperature is controlled by a temperature sensor. Units may be designed to vertical mounting, as well as horizontal.
Indirect heating devices are paired with some kind of coolant: a heating system or a solar system (solar panels). By design, the device resembles a direct heating device, but the only difference is that it has no heaters. The heating of the liquid occurs due to the hot water in the heating system circulating in the heat exchanger. How to connect an indirect heating boiler will be discussed further.
The device turns into a combined water heater when heating elements are inserted into it (holes for mounting heaters can be provided in the tank). It is convenient to use such a device in summer, when the heating is turned off or when there is not enough power produced by the heating circuit.
For the supply and removal of liquid, at the bottom of the water heater (accumulative) are installed fittings. Red is for hot water, blue for cold. It is recommended to use polypropylene pipes, which provide a reliable connection.
The figure below shows the simplest and most reliable scheme for connecting a water heater to a water supply.
The following rules must be observed:
In addition, the connection of a storage water heater requires the mandatory installation of a safety group of two valves. Safety mounted to protect the tank from overpressure. If it rises to a critical level, the valve opens and the liquid is discharged through drain hose into the sewer or a special container. Back the valve prevents water from flowing out of the tank when the pressure in the line decreases or it is absent. Thus, it prevents the heating elements from drying out, overheating and burning out.
The connection diagram of the water heater (boiler) to the water supply is shown in the figure:
The set of parts for connecting the device to the water supply may vary depending on the material of the main water pipes.
How to properly connect the boiler to the water supply, if the main line is installed in the apartment (house) using standard iron pipes? You can use the modern connection method, without the use of welding (welding a threaded adapter). In this case, it is used adapter "vampire", which is a collar supplemented with a hole and a thread.
Adapter "vampire"
The installation of the clamp is very simple, and is carried out in this way:
Connecting a water heater to such a conduit is the simplest. Metal-plastic bends easily, and various types are used to connect elements. compression fittings.
Connection steps:
There are also fittings for metal-plastic pipes for which crimping (compression) is required. In this case, you will need additional special tools.
Before connecting the boiler to the water supply using polypropylene pipes, you must prepare: soldering iron plastic conduits, scissors for cutting it, a pair of tees and adapters for the thread, which is located on the valves and the emergency valve, as well as the number of corners necessary for the design. Further:
Regardless of which conduits will be used in an apartment or house, the connection diagram of the storage unit and the algorithm for connecting all elements will be the same.
The scheme for connecting the storage boiler to the water supply is shown in the figure:
It is not recommended to plug the device into a regular socket. This option of connecting to the electrical network cannot be considered safe and can lead to a fire. And yet, how to connect the water heater? The connection of the boiler to the home electrical network must be carried out through a separately extended line from the shield. The line is equipped circuit breaker, while the power of the machine must be at least 16A. The factory wire is disconnected from the heater and a new one is connected three-core cable(copper), having a cross section of 2.5 mm.
Apparatus required must be grounded. Otherwise, when bathing in the shower, a slight tingling current and other troubles are possible, up to the failure of the wiring and a fire. Grounding is connected to switchboard. If you don’t understand anything about this, invite an electrician.
The indirect heating device does not have its own heat source, but uses heat energy from other sources (central heating, gas or solid fuel boiler, etc.). Therefore, for each source, choose individual scheme connecting an indirect heating boiler.
The device with indirect heating has strapping, which is connected to the water supply and heating circuit. In this case, you must adhere to the following rules:
Such a connection of an indirect heating boiler is implemented if there is a circulation pump. As can be seen in the figure, the heating circuit and the unit are connected in parallel, and three-way valve(controlled by a temperature sensor located in the body of the device) is mounted after the pump.
The valve is connected to the unit by one of its outlets. A tee is cut into the return line in front of the boiler, to which the outlet pipe of the heat exchanger is connected. On this inset in heating system can be considered complete.
When information is received from the temperature sensor that the liquid temperature in the tank is lower than the set one, the valve switches the coolant supply to the unit, and the heating system is turned off. Thus, the redirection of the entire heat carrier flow through the heat exchanger contributes to the rapid heating of the liquid. When the liquid is warm enough, the valve will again direct the flow to the heating circuit.
This boiler connection scheme can also be used for connecting to a double-circuit boiler.
With the existing scheme in which the boiler is non-volatile, it is recommended to place the device above the level of the radiators. With this arrangement, the circulation of the coolant will occur due to gravitational forces. Although, a pump can also be built into this circuit, but there will be no heated water during a power outage.
With this type of connection, it is necessary that the water conduit leading to the unit has a cross-sectional diameter of 1 step larger than that used for heating. This achieves priority.
The unit with recirculation allows instantaneous supply of hot water to the consumer. This is convenient because it does not require draining the cool liquid until the hot one starts to flow. This opportunity gives installed pump to maintain circulation looped circuit. This system is called recirculation. This design often includes a towel dryer.
In the recirculation system in the piping of the apparatus, the following is used:
Thus, if you connect the water heater in accordance with all the rules, this will allow the units to operate in the correct mode and provide the consumer with hot water.
In this article, we will take a closer look at boiler wiring diagram and how to connect the boiler to electricity.
First, consider a typical electrical circuit of a boiler - an electric water heater, what main components it consists of, why they are needed and how they interact with each other. Then we will consider how to connect the boiler to electricity, i.e. to the electrical network.
Let's look at the general electrical circuit of the boiler, when a separate knob for adjusting the water heating temperature is placed on the front panel of the tank, and the temperature controller and thermostat (thermal switch) are made separately.
The electrical circuit of the boiler consists of the following components:
- thermostat;
- thermostat;
- indicator lamp.
Supply voltage at zero N ( of blue color) and phase L (red) wires from are fed to the boiler, in our diagram to the input terminals of the thermostat. The neutral protective conductor PE is connected to the body of the water heater tank using a screw.
From the output terminals of the thermostat, zero is connected to the first contact of the heating element, and the phase is connected to the input connector of the thermostat. The output connector of the thermostat is connected to the second contact of the heating element. The indicator light is connected to the output zero terminal of the thermostat and to the output connector of the thermostat (phase).
IMPORTANT!
Before connecting the boiler to the electrical network, it is necessary to fill its tank with water. Otherwise, the heating element will overheat and fail.
So, we fill the water heater with water, set the desired water heating temperature with the temperature regulator knob, turn on the electrical protection device in the electrical panel, thereby supplying voltage to the boiler electrical circuit.
Since the water is cold, the thermostat circuit is closed, the indicator light is on, signaling the heating of the water, a current passes through and the water in the tank heats up.
When the set temperature is reached, which is measured by the temperature sensor of the thermostat, the thermostat breaks the power supply circuit of the heating element, the indicator light goes out, the water starts to cool.
When the water temperature in the tank drops below a certain value, the heater's power supply circuit closes and heating starts again. This is the process of maintaining a constant temperature of the water in the tank.
The thermostat acts as a fuse. If for some reason the temperature of the water in the boiler exceeds permissible value, the thermostat breaks the circuit of the neutral and phase wires, turning off the power from the heating element and thereby preventing overheating of the water in the boiler.
In some models of water heaters, the thermostat and thermostat are combined in one housing, while the principle of operation of the circuit does not change.
Now let's look at how to connect an electric water heater to?
In the diagram above, the boiler is connected to the electrical network through an RCD and a circuit breaker installed in series with it.
RCD protects against possible damage electric shock in the event of a current leakage due to a breakdown on the case or damage to the insulation, and the circuit breaker protects the circuit from possible overload or short circuit.
In this scheme, the cable from the electrical panel is directly connected to the input terminals of the boiler, i.e. the protective cover is removed, the power cable is connected, connected to the appropriate terminals and closed back with the protective cover.
For details on which RCD to choose, with what parameters, which circuit breaker, what rating and characteristics, how to correlate the parameters of the machine with the RCD parameters, how to calculate the required cable cross-section, see.
The diagram below shows the option of connecting the water heater through an electrical outlet.
It is connected to the cable coming from the electrical panel, and a cord with a plug from the boiler is already connected to this outlet.
I want to note that connecting directly to the boiler terminals, without using an intermediate outlet (as in the first diagram) is more reliable and preferable.
Well, instead of linking RCD+circuit breaker you can use difavtomat.
In this circuit, the phase and zero from are connected directly to the input terminals of the boiler. In this case, zeros before and after the difautomaton should not have common connections.
In this scheme, the connection through the outlet can also be used. The socket is installed in line after the difavtomat, and a plug with a cord from the boiler is included in it.
In the scheme for connecting the boiler to the electrical supply network, it is desirable to use a separate line, made with a cable of the required cross section with the installation of a separate electrical protection device.
See the video for more details Boiler connection diagram:
Useful materials
Centralized hot water supply is more a myth than a reality. In most settlements, this benefit of civilization ceased to be available many years ago. But there is a great alternative - water heaters, they are also boilers. Many models of such units are available for sale: flow, storage, electric, gas, etc.
Step-by-step diagram for connecting an indirect heating boiler
And if specially trained people should be involved in connecting gas water heaters, then an electric boiler can be connected to the water supply system on its own. The presented guide will help you thoroughly understand all the intricacies and nuances of this event.
Choose a place to place the unit. It is better that you have free access to all the connecting elements of the system - it will be more convenient to maintain the equipment and carry out repairs when necessary.
If a storage heater model is chosen, make sure the wall can support its weight with water. Thin interior walls and plasterboard partitions definitely not up to the task.
Install the water heater in close proximity to the water supply pipes - this way you will save yourself from the need to lay additional infrastructure. Therefore, the ideal place to install the boiler is the bathroom.
Important! heating elements electric boilers have a high enough power. On average, it is about 2 kW. To avoid problems with wiring in the future, experts recommend connecting this kind of equipment directly to the switchboard, using, if possible, copper wire with a large section. The closer to the shield the boiler is installed, the less wire will have to be used. Consider this moment too.
Once you have chosen a location for the heater, start preparing your tools and accessories.
We proceed to the installation of the boiler. Attach the water heater to its future location on the wall. The distance between the tank and the ceiling must be at least 100 mm, otherwise you will not be able to hang the unit on the fasteners.
Water heater capacity, l | wall material | Recommended bolt diameter, mm | Recommended bolt length, cm | |
---|---|---|---|---|
30-50 l | 15-25 | Concrete | 6-8 | 6-8 |
30-50 l | 15-25 | Brick / cinder block | 8-10 | 8-10 |
80-100 l | 25-35 | Concrete | 8-10 | 8-10 |
80-100 l | 25-35 | Brick / cinder block | 10-12 | 10-12 |
150-200 l | 45-60 | Concrete | 10-12 | 8-12 |
150-200 l | 45-60 | Brick / cinder block | 12-14 | 12-15 |
Mark the attachment points with a marker or pencil. Do it carefully. If the tank is large and heavy, invite an assistant.
Drill holes and screw in fasteners. They usually come with a tank. If there are no fasteners, buy them separately. Steel hooks will do.
Before installing the water heater, make sure that threaded connections at the inlet and outlet of water. Experts note that hoses and relief valves are often unscrewed by 1-2 turns. If you also find a similar defect, carefully drive the thread with a die by half an inch. It is not necessary to wind the valve or hose by force.
Install 2 separate shut-off valves on the boiler. Explore appearance output threads: cold water must be connected to the blue one, heated liquid will come out through the red one. Wind up the sealing tape, wind relief valve to the cold water inlet and connect to the water supply convenient way(using tubes or hoses). Experts strongly do not recommend the use of flexible hoses, especially in apartments.
Preparing fittings for installation. 1. Transitions from ¾ thread to ½ thread.
2.Thread extensions.
3. Cranes.
Screw fittings and thread extension
Safety valve. A - Direction of water flow.
B - Connection to the drain system.
C - Handle for draining water
Supply cold water to the boiler. At the same time, open the hot water tap - this is how you bleed air from the system.
In conclusion, it remains only to connect the boiler to electricity.
It is strongly discouraged to simply plug the heater into the nearest outlet through a cheap extension cord. Although in practice this is most often done, this connection option is not safe and correct. By choosing it, all responsibility for possible troubles will lie with you.
We connect the wires to the boiler. Yellow-green wire to the boiler body. Blue and brown to the thermostat terminals. The terminals on the thermostat are marked: zero on the left, line or phase on the right
It is recommended to connect the tank with a separate branch from electrical panel. The branch must be equipped with an automatic shutdown device. The recommended power of the machine is 16A. To connect to the mains, you need to remove the factory wire from the heater and wire it instead. new cable from the shield. For wiring, use a three-core copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 .
The water heater must be grounded. Absence protective earth poses a lot of trouble. If light “tingling” current while taking a shower can still be experienced, then a complete failure of the wiring and a fire are much more tragic situations.
Ground the tank directly in the switchboard. If you do not have the skills required for this, call a qualified electrician. It is also recommended to use copper wire for grounding.
Depending on the material of manufacture of water pipes, the procedure for inserting a water heater will vary slightly. Familiarize yourself with the existing nuances in order to perform the work as efficiently as possible.
If the pipes are not hidden in the wall, there will be no difficulty in connecting the boiler. All the work comes down to the fact that you cut the water supply pipes in the right places (depending on the height of the tank), solder the tees into the prepared holes, and from them run the pipes to the heater. For connection to taps, use conventional couplings.
You will spend a little more time and effort on connecting if the pipes are embedded in the wall. In such a situation, the procedure will look like this:
Connect using tees and split couplings. Wait for the soldered joints to harden completely, connect the connectors and connect the boiler to the water supply.
The technology does not allow the installation of metal-plastic pipes in a hidden way, so there will be no particular problems with the sidebar.
It is enough to cut the pipes, insert the tees and bring the water supply elements to the water heater. This completes the inset.
The most difficult case. In this case, the tank will be supplied through pipes kitchen faucet. A tee must be put on each branch pipe - this will allow you to connect the boiler and the kitchen faucet to one pipe without cutting the thread.
There are a number important nuances, without knowledge and observance of which the connection of the boiler to the water supply will be incorrect. You should know that the hot water system does not need to be equipped with any additional elements, with the exception of the shut-off valve. It is installed on the boiler pipe.
The cold water pipe is installed after pre-installation tee. The tap for removing excess cold water from the water heater cuts into the side branch of the splitter. A check valve and a shut-off valve are also connected to the tee. The latter is connected to the water supply.
When connecting the tank to the water supply, it is forbidden to do the following:
A separate section deserves such an element of the system under consideration as a safety valve. It eliminates the possibility of liquid backflow into the water supply system, and also helps to normalize the pressure in the system by dumping excess water during its heating.
An important nuance: it is forbidden to install a check valve instead of a safety valve. Because of this, the temperature switch may break, causing the boiler to explode.
The safety valve is installed at the point where cold water enters the heater. The connection technology prohibits placing shut-off elements between the tank inlet and the safety valve.
Important! Monitor the condition of the valve during the operation of the tank. If the brass device remains dry for a long time, this may indicate a breakdown. The failed element must be replaced as soon as possible.
Now you can connect the heater to the water supply in compliance with all the requirements and nuances of the technology. This is a great opportunity to save on plumbing services and keep the entire process under personal control.
Successful work!
h4 style="text-align: justify;"> Video - How to connect an indirect heating boiler to the water supply
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