Ceiling passage unit for a bath. How to make a pipe pass through the ceiling - a step-by-step guide from the master Passing an iron pipe through the ceiling in the bath

To ensure comfort and safety in a room with a furnace design, it is necessary to correctly make the passage of the chimney through the ceiling. Fire safety is ensured by simple pipe installation rules. All work can be done by hand.

To bring the chimney through the ceiling, it is necessary to build a unit that provides the necessary distance from the ceiling materials to the pipe. These rules are regulated by a special document, which specifies certain recommendations:

• The distance from the surface of a concrete or brick chimney to the battens or rafters must be at least 13 centimeters.
• If the chimney is ceramic and without insulation, then the distance should be as minimum 25 cm. And in the presence of a heat-insulating layer - 13 cm.

During the installation of beams, these rules must be taken into account. Their step should be about 60 cm. These recommendations apply to pipes with a layer of insulation.

The outlet must have a diameter 11.5-12 cm. If a sandwich with a heat-insulating layer is passed through the ceiling, then the nozzle should have a diameter of about 32 cm. On each side, observe distance not less than 13 cm. To calculate the distance between the installed beams, you need 13 x 2 + 32, the result is 58 cm, which corresponds to the recommended 60 cm.

You can also calculate the distance of the pipe without insulation. If a nozzle with an inner diameter of 11.5 cm., then the distance to the ceiling material must be at least 25 cm. In this case, there must be a distance between the beams 25 x 2 + 11.5, which is equal to 61.5 cm. This step is recommended for use in the construction of the ceiling.

• If the partition is protected from possible fire, then when chimney thickness 12 cm, the distance should be about 26 cm. If the nozzle is 5 cm thick, then the distance is 38 cm.
• If the partition is not protected from fire, then in the first case the distance can reach 32 cm, and in the case of the second option - up to 50 cm.

The document also says that you need to maintain a certain distance from the walls. Often the chimney is installed near the surface of the wall, which over time can lead to a fire, as the temperature inside the chimney can be 500 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary to lay the heat-insulating layer on the wall surface with your own hands, and then cover it metal sheet.

Read also: Chimney cleaning

Node types

The passage of the chimney through the wooden floor must be protected from high temperatures and the branch pipe must be fixed in a special position. For this, cutting is intended, its second name is the “passage knot”.

It is recommended to use an industrial device. It is a special metal box, attached to it on one side galvanized plate. There is a hole in the middle to insert a sandwich. A special plate is installed from the side of the room, which closes the hole in the ceiling and acts as a decorative element. Also, the plate is a support for the heat-insulating layer, which is placed in the gap between the beam and the pipe surface.

Many experts argue that stainless steel cutting is the best option, since a galvanized sheet emits harmful substances under the influence of high temperatures. Therefore, in a residential area or a bath, it is recommended to use stainless steel.

The ceiling unit is installed quite simply. If at the construction stage it was not envisaged to bring out the chimney, then a hole of a certain size must be made between the beams so that a chimney can be drawn. Then fix the heat insulator. To do this, you can use minerite, stone wool or asbestos. Also, experts recommend fixing metal strips.

A special device must be put on the pipe in a straight section that passes through the ceiling. Then it needs to be raised to the required level and a heat-insulating layer is fixed along the edges. After that, the knot is fastened with self-tapping screws.

Products may have different configurations. In some cases, a metal cylinder may be needed, which is installed around the hole, and plate edges a little in favor of him. It should be noted that when installing such a device, the hole must also have square shape. With the help of the plate, the hole is closed. You should also protect the ceiling materials from high temperatures with a heat insulator.

The node may be without a cylinder, however, around the perimeter are installed special boards made of mineralite or metal. The edges of the device must be covered with a heat-insulating layer. It is recommended to use mineralite, as it acts as a heat insulator.

Read also: Chimney Spark Arrestor

Passage through the ceiling

When removing the chimney through the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

• A metal pipe without a heat insulator should come out of the furnace. Its length should be more than one meter, as the outlet temperature is too high. Above you can use a sandwich.
• In places of passage through the ceiling, the pipe must have a protected sheath. To do this, you can use an industrial sandwich or insulate the walls with your own hands.
• Joints are allowed only before the passage or after it. Therefore, all connections must be controlled.
• The horizontal section can have a maximum length of one meter.
• The entire chimney can have a maximum of three elbows.
• It is forbidden to use a rigid mount, as the dimensions of the chimney change under the influence of high temperature.

The choice of heat insulator

When the device is fixed on the ceiling, you need to climb to the next floor or attic to fill the distance between the beams and the chimney with a heat insulator.

If the temperature in the pipe does not exceed 600 degrees, then basalt wool can be used as an insulator. However, some experts do not recommend using this option. They explain this by the fact that during the manufacturing process resins are used as a binder, and they emit harmful formaldehyde under the influence of high temperatures. In addition, the chimney produces condensate, and when wet, cotton wool deteriorates its heat-shielding characteristics. Therefore, this option is not the best.

You can fill the gap with fine expanded clay. It is a light and natural material, which quickly restores its characteristics in case of getting wet.

Until recently, most often used sand. But in this case, there is one significant disadvantage: over time, the material wakes up through small cracks, so the stove must be constantly cleaned and the distance filled again.

You can use clay. To do this, it must be diluted so that it acquires a pasty consistency.

Some experts generally do not recommend warming the knot and leaving it empty. This prevents the chimney from burning out and overheating. But this option is not the best, because wood will dry out over time and there is a risk of fire.

To avoid fires and protect yourself and your loved ones, you need to properly pass the pipe through the ceiling in the bathhouse and take all necessary measures to prevent ignition of the ceiling due to contact with a hot pipe.

Therefore, it is very important to mount the hot pipe in such a way that it does not come into contact with the wood. For this, additional protection from fireproof materials is implemented.

Below we will consider the basics of fire safety, types of materials, installation technologies and the main mistakes in arranging the passage of a pipe through the ceiling and roof.

How to protect the ceiling from fire?

Before you get started, you need to familiarize yourself with SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning". These building codes regulate the arrangement of heating and ventilation systems.

The text of the SNiP indicates the distance from the outer surfaces of the pipes to the floor and roof elements.

The distance from the roof elements to the pipes must be additionally protected with non-flammable materials.

Therefore, when creating a passage through the ceiling of the bath, a sufficient distance should be provided from the hot surface of the pipe to the floor structures.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that during construction, many prefer metal pipes. Therefore, you should familiarize yourself with Appendix K of the above-mentioned SNiP, which indicates the minimum distances from parts of the furnace and pipes:

As you can see, the indentation should be 500 mm for wood without thermal insulation and 380 mm for flammable materials with additional fire protection.

In addition to the standards set forth in SNiP 41-01-2003, you should carefully read the instructions for the chimney from the manufacturer. The documentation contains information about the indents, taking into account the materials used.

What materials are resistant to high temperatures?

During the heating of the furnace, the temperature reaches a critical point, so the wood can ignite from direct contact with a red-hot pipe, which will lead to sad consequences.

To avoid a fire, you need to create an insulating layer of any non-combustible material. Perfect for this:

1. Mineral wool. Fibrous insulation made of inorganic filaments. Confidently tolerates temperatures up to 300 degrees Celsius. Choose brand PZh-175 or PZh-200 to ensure maximum thermal insulation properties. Such mineral wool products are manufactured in accordance with GOST 9573-96 Mineral wool plates of increased rigidity and in accordance with GOST 22950-95, as well as in accordance with GOST 21880-94 - stitched mats.
2. Minerite. Thermal insulation material consisting of cellulose and cement-based limestone is a dense slab that can effectively withstand temperatures up to 150o C. The maximum heating temperature that minerite can withstand reaches 400 degrees.
3. Basalt cardboard. Dense environmentally friendly material with a thickness of 5 mm, which confidently protects, withstands temperatures up to 900o C.
4. Asbestos cardboard. It also allows you to create excellent protection against fire. Has a thickness of up to 10 mm. Does not lose its properties for many years. The only drawback is the production of toxic fumes when heated, which is a critical factor for use in a bath.

If you want to carry out the initial lining of the ends of the floor and have already accurately taken all the measurements and made indents, then you can also use low-combustible materials, including:

1. glass-magnesium sheet- the standard version is not suitable for wood protection, so choose premium products.
2. Fireproof drywall- in terms of characteristics, it differs from the standard GKL in that it has enhanced adhesion of layers and reinforcement from the inside. Therefore, refractory drywall is protected from critical temperatures and does not ignite even if it is thrown into the fire for 15 minutes.

Note! Saving on materials can lead to a fire and an emergency, so never use standard mineral wool.

If you want to create an additional layer of chimney thermal insulation, then give preference to basalt wool. It does not deform and does not lose quality even at a temperature of 1000 degrees Celsius.

To protect the box when the pipe passes through the ceiling, basalt cardboard should be laid. To save money, but not lose quality, you can fill the passage box with clay.

A metal sheet with sides containing clay (uniform distribution with a thickness of up to 2.5 cm) will help protect the ceiling from elevated temperatures in the area where the box is attached.

Chimneys type "sandwich"

Despite the existing solutions for pipe penetrations through ceilings and roofs, many today prefer to use safer sandwich pipes. The main difference between a sandwich and a conventional pipe is a double pipe with an additional layer to protect against elevated temperatures.

They are made of black or stainless steel and lead to a significant reduction in thermal radiation, the source of which is the flue chimney.

It is worth noting that, despite the double wall, the outer casing of the “sandwich” also has a rather high temperature. Therefore, to ensure fire safety, it is better to play it safe and use the recommended indents from combustible materials and heat-insulating materials to protect the ceiling from heating at the pipe passage.

Inside the pipe, during the afterburning of volatile compounds, the temperature can be very high. Therefore, during operation, it is impossible to violate the norms for the construction of chimneys and the recommendations of chimney manufacturers for the arrangement of passage nodes through the ceiling and roof of the bath.

You can watch the video of the chimney device from the sandwich pipes below:

Ceiling groove at the pipe passage

It is necessary to adhere to two rules - to mount the pipe exactly vertically and to ensure reliable thermal insulation of the ceiling using modern mineral thermal insulation materials. Therefore, you need to adhere to the following plan:

1. Determine the location where the pipe passage node will be located.
2. Install a protective casing (box) at the passageway that separates the combustible materials of the ceiling from the chimney.
3. Perform laying of protective heat-insulating materials that protect the structural elements of the floor from critical temperatures.

When arranging a passage node, the following factors must be taken into account:

• The structure of the bath.
• The amount of money you can afford to spend on materials.

After that, make a cutout, but provide a minimum indentation on all sides (decorative elements will hide it). You can make a passage of the desired size using a jigsaw:

If you made the passage with your own hands, you can decorate it with galvanized iron or stainless steel. An additional advantage of stainless and galvanized steel is that it is a good heat shield.

When using a ceiling-through assembly with a standard design from the manufacturer, adhere to the dimensions indicated in the instructions. If you are creating a passage from scratch, then carefully measure all the distances necessary for the installation of a passage box.

To calculate the distances, you can use the following formula: the inner diameter of the pipe is added to the two offset distances.

Note! It is much preferable to carry out the calculation of all the required dimensions at the stage of developing the bath project. At the same time, in the drawings, it is necessary to note in advance the optimal distance between the floor beams and determine the exact size of the space required to mount the pipe.

If the passage of the pipe through the ceiling of the bath was not thought out at the design stage, then using a plumb line, determine the location of the pipe and the passage assembly above the furnace.

How to install a prefabricated spigot?

Today, on sale, you can purchase a ready-made passage unit, which is a metal structure installed in the ceiling of the bath.

In terms of design and fastening strength, the factory design is much better than a homemade one. In stores, you will find any configuration of nodes for the passage of a pipe through the ceiling, which are a rectangular or round box, securely fastened to a metal sheet that performs a protective and decorating function.

The design of the factory ceiling pass-through unit (PPU) already has a cutout for the pipe, so you need to choose the node taking into account the diameter of the pipe.

To perform the installation, follow the following sequence of actions:
1. An opening is made at the installation site of the passage unit and the frame of the ceiling unit is assembled from a galvanized profile:

2. Sheet heat-insulating material (asbestos-cement sheet or basalt cardboard) carefully closes the end of the ceiling at the passage:

3. In places where the metal sheets of the passage assembly are in contact with combustible materials, sheet thermal insulation is also laid.

4. The structure is installed in the through hole in the ceiling and one knee of the sandwich is inserted into it, fixing it in a metal structure, wrapping it with an asbestos cord.

5. In the upper part from the attic side, the box is filled with refractory mineral wool, expanded clay or other material recommended for use by the manufacturer.

6. After that, the attic part of the passage assembly can be covered with decorative metal elements.

Do-it-yourself passage knot

If there is no store in your city where you can buy a ready-made floor passage assembly, you can make it yourself. To complete the work you will need the following materials:

1. Sheet of fireproof drywall.
2. Minerite.
3. Thin sheet steel.
4. Stainless steel sheet.
5. Dry clay or expanded clay.

The first step is to create a tin box. You can bend the sheet using a regular board, and fasten the edges with rivets.

When designing a bath, it is important to provide a well-equipped chimney so that the combustion products leave the room without hindrance, without creating a danger to the steamers. How to get the pipe out of the bath through the ceiling correctly with your own hands in steps? We will consider this issue in this article.

One of the options for the output of the chimney is to output it through the ceiling space and the roof. This option is more reliable and durable.

To make such a chimney, you can use different types of materials, but, in any case, you must follow the rules of finishing technology.

Types of pipes

Today, several types of chimney pipes are used:

Increasingly, people are starting to pay attention to more expensive chimney finishes, preferring reliability and safety. Ordinary metal chimneys can cause a fire in the room, while a brick chimney or sandwich chimney reliably protects the bathhouse from fire.

Chimney pipe installation rules

There are several rules that should be followed when installing a chimney:

1. before installation, it is important to carefully plan its location;
2. the pipe section located horizontally from the furnace to the tie-in should not be more than 1 meter;
3. a metal pipe must have a gap to flammable finishing elements of at least 1.5 m;
4. the chimney should be installed so that its cut does not fall on the leeward zone. This will significantly reduce the force of natural traction;
5. in the gas duct, it should be possible to clean the pipe, including from condensate.

Professionals also advise protecting a single-walled pipe with a layer of heat-insulating material.

The most commonly used for this is basalt fiber. Outside, the insulation layer is closed with a galvanized steel casing. This will prevent condensation from forming and protect the attic from fire.

Stages of installing chimneys in the ceiling

It is conditionally possible to divide the process of installing a chimney into the ceiling space into several stages.

Stage 1: Design

First you need to draw up a detailed plan for the location of the chimney.

It is important that the chimney is located conveniently for steamers, is not too close to the supporting beams and rafters, and also provide the necessary clearance to flammable finishing materials.

Stage 2: Purchase of a chimney and necessary materials

At the design stage, it is also worth deciding what type of chimney will be installed in your bath. After the choice is made, you can safely go shopping. Do not forget to also check with the consultants in the store what additional materials will be needed to install the chimney.

Stage 3: Marking the ceiling surface for the chimney opening

In order to correctly determine the location of the future chimney, you will need a building kit, with which we mark the place where the pipe outlet from the furnace should be located.

Stage 4: Cut a hole for the pipe

According to the markings made earlier, we make a hole in the ceiling surface for the future chimney. It is not scary if the hole is a couple of centimeters larger than it should be.

From the inside, the gaps will be closed with a special box, and from the attic side, it will be possible to isolate the gaps with stone wool or other suitable material.

Stage 5: Marking the roof for the pipe

This is an equally important stage of work, which involves marking the surface of the roof under the chimney. The fact is that the surface of the roof usually has a slope. Accordingly, the greater the slope of the roof, the greater should be the area of ​​​​the hole cut under the chimney.

Stage 6: Preparing a hole in the roof

The hole in the roof is cut out in the form of an oval, and the greater the slope, the larger the area of ​​​​the oval. To close the hole from the side of the street, special rubber seals are used in the future.

When choosing a sealant, it is very important to take into account the slope of the roof.

Stage 7: Installing the chimney

When choosing a metal chimney, you must:

The asbestos sheet is pre-moistened in water to avoid cracks and breaks during wrapping, and it is also wrapped with wire on top to prevent the material from slipping.

In the steam room, the resulting hole is covered with a thin metal sheet or asbestos to reduce heat transfer between the chimney and the finish. On top of the metal sheet, you can fill it with expanded clay or put basalt insulation.

A rubber seal is not suitable for closing a hole in the roof, as it cannot withstand high temperatures. A sheet of metal should be used, which is laid on the hole, and the resulting cracks are sealed with rope asbestos, abundantly moistened with cement mortar.

sandwich chimney

The easiest to install will be a sandwich chimney, which is easy to install and ensures the fire safety of the building.

Sandwich pipes, as a rule, consist of several metal sheets, between which a fire-resistant material is laid.

Work plan:

• a knot is installed on the roof of the bath for tight fixation of the chimney pipe;
• the pipe is installed in the prepared hole in the roof;
• the space formed between the sandwich pipe and pipes of larger diameter is covered with sand or expanded clay;
• if the use of a larger pipe is undesirable, a sandwich pipe box should be used, the cavity of which is also filled with expanded clay;

It is important to observe the interval from the sandwich pipe to the finishing materials. In no case should they touch, so as not to create a fire hazard.

brick chimney

The most reliable and preferred, but also quite expensive, design is a brick chimney. Before installing it, you need to carefully plan everything, not forgetting the fact that installing such a chimney in small baths is impractical.

Work plan:

• a hole is made for the pipe, the diameter of which should exceed the diameter of the pipe by 20 cm;
• then the chimney is led through the roof surface and insulated with a metal sheet;
• the structure is sealed by leading the edge of the metal sheet under the roof;
• then a metal umbrella is attached to the installed pipe, protecting it from moisture;
• Finishing the chimney is applying heat-resistant paint to it, which will protect the metal parts from corrosion.

Having finished the installation outside, proceed to the installation inside the steam room.

First, the box is insulated with basalt and sheathed with a foil insulator, and the first element of the chimney adjacent to the furnace is installed.

Then the second link of the chimney is installed, and the box is covered with expanded clay. After that, all the remaining segments are fixed, and a metal umbrella is installed.

This completes the installation of the chimney through the ceiling. As you can see, this is not such a complicated step-by-step procedure, which, however, requires certain theoretical knowledge and professional experience.

In any case, with a little desire, you can do this work yourself, without the help of professionals.

Useful videos on removing the chimney from the bath

In a private house or in a bath with stove heating, the risk of fire is always increased due to the close proximity of the heat source to combustible materials. Therefore, the installation of stoves and fireplaces, and, in particular, internal chimneys, provides for compliance with the fire safety rules established in SNiP. The most dangerous section of the furnace heating system in the house is the place where the chimney pipe passes through the ceiling, ceiling and roof truss system. Since the chimney pipe becomes very hot when smoke and gases pass through it, when combustible materials are close, they can ignite and cause a fire. You can avoid a dangerous situation by observing the requirements for the installation of the chimney and using special ceiling-through units.

The ceiling-through unit is a protective box that is installed in a provided or specially cut hole in the ceiling and roofing pie. Inside the box there is a hole through which the chimney pipe is brought out. The main task of the protective ceiling-pass assembly is to isolate the chimney, preventing it from coming into contact with combustible roofing materials or heating them to dangerous values.

Ceiling-through units can be purchased ready-made or made independently in accordance with SNiP and fire safety standards. Finished products are the best option, because. their design already provides opportunities for thermal insulation of the chimney. For installation, it is enough to choose a box that matches the size and geometry of the chimney.

Important! Before installation in the ceiling, the assembly must be insulated with a heat-insulating material. Basalt mineral wool and foil screens are best suited for this purpose, which withstand high temperatures and are characterized by low thermal conductivity.

Regulatory requirements and fire safety rules

The exact requirements and figures governing the rules for installing a chimney and its passage through the roof-rafter system are contained in SNiP 41-01-2003, namely, in section 6.6. The key condition that determines the safety of the chimney pipe through the roof is that the maximum heating temperature of the surrounding structures and materials should not exceed 50 ° C.

The passage of the chimney through the ceiling between floors - ceiling cutting - one of the most critical stages in the construction of the bath. This is due to the high frequency of fires due to the ignition of wooden structures near the chimneys, and these are the floors and ceilings in the baths.

Safety regulations dictate the need to avoid unprotected contact between a hot pipe and flammable materials. To comply with them, when installing a chimney in a bathhouse, it is necessary to build a special ceiling passage assembly in the form of a box using fire-retardant materials, and execute it in strict accordance with the standards.

Fire safety norms and rules

Any developer can get acquainted with what chimney equipment is considered safe according to SNiP 41-01-2003.

SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)

We are interested in paragraph 6.6.22, which dictates an indent of 130 mm in the passage through the floors for a brick pipe made with wood protection. It is known that brick and concrete pipes have a lower heat transfer than modern metal pipes, which are most often used in baths. This means that when arranging the cutting of a single-walled metal pipe without thermal protection, one should be guided by other offset numbers, which are indicated in Appendix "K":

500 mm to wood without thermal protection;


380mm from heated pipe to flammable behind thermal insulation layer.

These figures should be considered as distances from the smoke inside the chimney to the tree.

Manufacturers of stoves and chimneys provide documentation that necessarily indicates the possible value of the distances to ceilings made of various materials. They should be guided by the independent construction of the passage of the bath pipe through the ceiling.

What materials can be used for fire protection when installing PPU?

Both brick, and ceramic, and metal parts of interfloor cutting units are heated to temperatures that cause a risk of wood fire. For reliable isolation of combustible elements of the ceiling pie, it is necessary to make a gasket from protective materials.

Material	Description
	Slab fireproof material based on cement with the addition of limestone, mica and cellulose. Maintains constant heating up to 150 °C. When exposed to higher temperatures, the mineralite organic filler burns out and it becomes brittle.
	This general name refers to a fibrous insulation, consisting of molten threads of various inorganic nature. It can be both minerals (basalt, dolomite, etc.), and blast-furnace production waste, slag. Slag wool does not lose its properties up to temperatures of 300 ° C; in a hotter environment, sintering of fibers occurs - binders and water-repellent additives are not as resistant to fire as the mineral component. As a result, the thermal conductivity increases sharply. As a fire-resistant material, a rigid mineral plate of the PZh-175 brand is positioned. It is able to maintain insulating properties up to 1000°C.
	Available in thicknesses from 2 to 10 mm. This is a material that perfectly protects against fire, it not only does not burn, but also does not smolder. Harmfulness can be considered a restriction on its use - asbestos fumes are undesirable in a bath. All asbestos gaskets on the steam room side must be covered with metal.
	Highly efficient and absolutely environmentally friendly heat insulator, which belongs to the group of non-combustible materials. Its thickness is 5 mm, the coefficient of thermal conductivity increases slightly with increasing temperature, it works reliably at temperatures up to 900°C.

These are materials that can protect wooden parts from charring and fire at high temperatures in a high heat zone. But the primary lining of the ends of the ceiling, if the necessary indents are observed, can be carried out not only by them. For these purposes, it is allowed to use materials with a flammability class G1 (low combustible).

Material	Description
	It has the designation GKLO, gray sheets with red markings. It differs from the usual one by the presence of internal reinforcement with a tighter adhesion of the layers. This prevents the penetration of oxygen into the thickness of the material, combustion is not supported, and even in an open fire, the material does not collapse within 20 minutes.
	Refractory properties of the NG degree are possessed only by a product with a marking belonging to the Premium class. A sheet of the Standard class, which is not marked in any way, cannot be used to protect the tree.

The choice of thermal insulator can play a decisive role. It should be remembered that ordinary mineral wool, which is sometimes recommended to be used to stuff the passage assembly, sinters when heated and quickly loses its fire-retardant properties.

High temperature leads to a change in its structure - remaining unchanged in appearance, it can heat up significantly and no longer cope with thermal insulation. To ensure reliable thermal insulation of the chimney, it is necessary to use basalt wool, designed for operation at temperatures of 800-1000 ° C.

It is also safe to lay minerite, asbestos or basalt cardboard. There is also a time-tested budget option for thermal protection - sand was used for it (they were covered with a passage box) and clay. For example, sufficient thermal insulation of the part of the ceiling to which the box is attached is achieved by applying an even layer of clay about 2 cm thick to a metal sheet with flanging.

Video - How to install a chimney yourself. Calculations and drawings

Features of using the "sandwich" chimney when passing through the ceiling of the bath

Modern metal sauna stoves are very often supplemented with steel pipes made of black or stainless steel. Wishing to reduce hard infrared radiation and make the place of contact between the chimney and the ceiling above the stove safer, the owners of the baths use a "sandwich" - a double pipe with a thermal insulation layer.

Important! The connection of the chimney elements must under no circumstances be at the level of the ceiling passage.

Contrary to popular belief, the outer shell of a stainless steel sandwich is not much colder than the main chimney. Such a pipe design, in principle, does not serve to protect the bath from fire - the sandwich provides the best conditions for sustainable traction, this is its main task. When considering fire protection measures, one should not hope that the use of a sandwich at the passageway makes it possible to reduce the distances of the indents.

It is known that due to the burning out of volatile compounds in the pipe itself, the temperature in it rises for some time as the height increases. If at the level of the exit from the furnace the gases have a temperature of 800°C, at the level of 1.5-2 m, measurements will already show 850°C. The outer casing under these conditions is heated up to 300 ° C, as evidenced by the tint colors on its surface.

Wishing to quickly heat the bath, overheating the furnace, it is easy to exceed the optimal regime for the passage of combustion products through the pipe. According to the standards of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, the temperature in stainless steel chimneys should not exceed 400 ° C, tests for certification are carried out precisely for these values. Most steam lovers far exceed these parameters. From overheating, the metal quickly burns out, and you need to understand that a sandwich can turn into a single wall at any time. The insulation with which the sandwich is clogged also does not serve as a panacea for a fire. If you assemble the chimney “for smoke”, and not “for moisture”, the thermal insulator heats up during the furnace, and after cooling it is saturated with condensate - as a result, it loses its useful properties over time.

All of the above leads to a certain conclusion - you should not lightly reduce the recommended indents, relying on the protective casing of the sandwich.

Important: when using metal stoves and stainless steel chimneys with a ceiling passage, the optimal distance from the smoke to the wooden structures is 380 mm!

Stages of the ceiling cutting device

The main tasks that the builder faces when arranging the passage of the chimney through the ceiling of the bathhouse are protection against fire of the ceiling and a smooth vertical installation of the pipe. The work is carried out in three stages:

determination and arrangement of the location of the cutting unit;

installation of a finished or self-made protective casing;

thermal insulation finish.

These are general rules, and specific methods of work depend on many factors - the allocated budget, preferences in the choice of materials, even whether the technologies were observed during the construction of the bath.

The center of the pipe passage is determined using a plumb line. The cutout is made according to the markup, slightly reducing the size of the sides so that the future decorative panel completely covers it.

A self-made passage, as a rule, from the side of the steam room is decorated with a sheet of metal - galvanized or stainless steel, which also serves as a heat shield. The dimensions of the sheet must exceed the size of the cutout for the pipe.

A vertically located chimney will pass through both the ceiling and the roof. When marking the chimney, you should start from the highest point and use a plumb line;

Using ready-made PPU designs, they are guided by the hole sizes recommended by the manufacturer;

Passing the chimney through the ceiling on their own, without an industrially manufactured unit, a preliminary calculation of the passage box is made. Strictly above the place where the pipe passes in the ceiling pie, it is necessary to make a through hole, which in size allows you to maintain the required indents. They are calculated as follows: for example, a pipe diameter of 120 mm, a sandwich with a 50 mm insulation will pass through the ceiling. The resulting outer dimension is 230 mm. We find the allowable distance by adding two distances of indents with the inner diameter, to the smoke. According to safety standards, this is 2 * 380 + 120 = 880 mm.

Important! It is good if the exact location of the sauna stove and chimney is thought out even during the drafting of the project. In this case, it is easy to calculate such an installation of the floor support beams in order to provide the necessary space for the safe passage of the pipe between them.

Otherwise, the first thing to start with is to change the design of the ceiling above the furnace. A part of the beam that is too close to the hot chimney is cut out and reinforced by installing jumpers firmly attached to the resulting ends. Then cover the ceiling.

Installation of a finished cutting unit - a through pipe

The advantages of using a factory design are ease of installation and a deliberately aesthetic appearance of the ceiling in the steam room.

It is assumed that a sandwich will be used as a chimney when laying in the finished foam. The dimensions of standard devices are small to ensure reliable insulation of a single-wall chimney.

On sale there are nodes of passage of a ceiling of various configurations. The design is based on a box of rectangular or round section, rigidly connected to a sheet that serves both as a heat protection from below and for decorative finishing. In the center there is a cutout for the pipe, the knot is selected according to its diameter. Ready-made passage structures are made of metal, most often stainless steel, and mineralite, with and without a thermal insulator gasket. The best in terms of their properties are combined, having an inner metal box and an outer minerite box with an air fire-retardant layer between them.

Install the overlap passage node in this way.

The ends of the hole cut in the ceiling are covered with a layer of heat insulator, upholstering the tree around the perimeter with it.

The bottom sheet of the device and all places of possible contact between metal and wood are laid with a layer of non-combustible sheet material. Here are good: minerite, asbestos and foil basalt cardboard.

On the knee, which will be located in the passage node, they put on the finished structure and bring it to the hole cut in the ceiling. From the bottom of the steam room, the finished unit is fixed in the ceiling with self-tapping screws, usually the holes for them are provided in advance by the manufacturer.

The diameter of the orifice of the through pipe is always greater than the diameter of the pipe. Rigid binding is unacceptable due to thermal deformations, a gap of at least 5 mm is required. Based on what material will be used as fire protection near the pipe, a decision is made on the advisability of insulating the gap. If necessary, the pipe at the junction is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

From above, on the floor of the attic, additional thermal insulation is carried out. The box is filled with expanded clay or fire-resistant mineral wool.

In the attic, the cutting unit is left without external decoration. If the upper floor is residential, the passage structure is decorated with a metal sheet.

Homemade pipe passage through the ceiling of the bath - step by step instructions with photos

Necessary materials:

tin for the manufacture of cutting boxes;

• stainless steel sheet;

  sheet GKLO or basalt cardboard;

  The material for backfilling the box is expanded clay, but dry clay may also be suitable.

The passage of the pipe in this example is performed at the stage before the fine finishing of the ceiling. It does not matter, the sequence of operations does not change.

Illustration	Description
	A tin box is made - a board is taken for the fold template, the edges are fastened with rivets. The dimensions of the box correspond to the distance between the ceiling beams, if their location was thought out taking into account the future installation of the chimney. The offsets are calculated according to the norms, 380 * 2 + the diameter of the inner tube of the sandwich.
	Using a plumb line, the center of the pipe passage is determined. Where the load lowered from the ceiling falls into the center of the hole for the pipe, mark the point. This will be the center of the chimney and the floor passage node. A hole is cut above the pipe. When marking it, a layer of mineralite is taken into account, which will pass along the perimeter. After laying it, the box should sit freely on the ceiling. The ends of the hole are laid with strips of mineralite, it is enough to provide thermal insulation along the edge, where the metal will come into contact with the ceiling structure.
	The tin box does not have sufficient rigidity, and galvanized profile spacers are installed to maintain its shape.
	A sheet of stainless steel is cut. Before removing the protective film, fix the exact location of the hole for the pipe. The cutout diameter leaves a gap between the pipe and the hole. Additionally, a decorative shield is prepared from the same material that will cover the junction. Using scissors for metal, carefully cut out the center of the resulting circle in sectors.
	Start cutting the heat-insulating gasket under the sheet. The template for it is a finished sheet of metal. From the tools you need a jigsaw.
	Start cutting the heat-insulating gasket under the sheet. The template for it is a finished sheet of metal. From the tools you need a jigsaw. Insert the box into place and close the hole with a sheet of stainless steel. To make sure that in the place adjacent to the box, the ceiling does not char and catch fire, this is done through a thermal protection sheet. The decorative overlay is fixed to the sheet. As a result, a reliable and beautiful screen is obtained above the furnace near the pipe.
	The last stage of work on the passage through the ceiling of the bath will be the thermal insulation of the pipe in the box. To do this, refractory material is poured into it to the very top. Experience shows that both sand and clay have been successfully used for these purposes. But since the dimensions of the box are not too small, preference should be given to lighter expanded clay.