Shield on the landing diagram. Electrical panels

Electrical shield…. What is it? This is the beginning of the entire electrical part of the building, and it doesn’t matter what it is, a huge plant in a metropolis or a modest grandmother’s house in the countryside. Everywhere is electrical shield.

In this article, we will get acquainted with the most common electrical panels that can be found in everyday life. For example, let's take the most ordinary apartment building.

So, where does the electrical part of the house begin? Depending on the project, on the power that is supplied to the house, the electrical part begins with the switchboard. In the switchboard there can be an ASU (input-distribution device) or a main switchboard (main switchboard). It is to these installations that power cables come from a transformer substation (TS).

In the MSB and ASU there are introductory circuit breakers or circuit breakers with fusible links. Further, after the introductory machines, there are outgoing machines that feed the riser cables. Also, a metering device, circuit breakers and automation for lighting front doors, streets, basements and utility rooms are installed in the main switchboard and ASU. Also, the lighting board (SchO) and the emergency lighting board (SCHAO) can be installed individually in each front door (entrance).

In every front door, on every flight of stairs, floor switchboards. Floor boards (SC), depending on the project, are equipped with electricity metering devices (meters), post-metering machines, outgoing machines for protecting electrical wiring and consumer equipment.

Most storey electrical panels are arranged in approximately the same way, and consist of 3 main parts: subscriber, accounting and low-current parts. In the subscriber part of the electrical panel there are circuit breakers and an introductory RCD (residual current device), in the accounting part there is a meter, in the low-current part there are television and telephone cables, the Internet.

In modern floor boards (SHE), the subscriber and accounting sections are combined into one common compartment.

Recently, during the renovation of apartments, most apartment owners equip their own, separate distribution electrical panel in their apartment. On the staircase, in the floor electrical panel, only the metering device and the introductory machine remain. What is the advantage of an apartment switchboard?

In most apartments, no matter when they were built, according to the project, the entire electrical part of the apartment is divided into two or three groups - a lighting group, a socket group and a group for lighting a bathroom and kitchen. These same projects were typical in the 70-90s. These projects are still being used to this day, without taking into account the fact that the loads on the socket groups are far from what they used to be.

Almost everyone who has purchased an apartment in a new building or who makes repairs in the old fund makes a complete one for a new one, and accordingly the number of machines increases to 10-20 pieces, depending on the number of consumers.

Without really going into the electrical layout of the apartment, let's consider the most common version of the shield for a 2-3-room apartment.

1) Introductory machine - 32 A

2) Room lighting - 10A (16A)

3) Corridor lighting - 10A

4) Lighting of the kitchen, bathroom - 10A

5) Kitchen sockets - 16A (dif.automatic)

6) Oven - 16A

7) Electric boiler - 20A

8) Air conditioner No. 1 - 16A

9) Air conditioner No. 2 - 16A

10) Washing machine - 16A(20A)

11) Sockets room No. 1 16A (differential automatic)

12) Sockets com No. 2 16A (dif.automatic)

13) Sockets com No. 3 16A (differential automatic)

Electrical panels can be completed in different ways, depending on the qualifications of the electrician (most often, customers trust the distribution of loads to the installer, since few people do a project for an apartment), on the wishes of the customer.

Many electricians, in order to save money for the customer, put one common on all socket groups, and the outgoing socket groups themselves are protected by circuit breakers. In addition, in the switchboard there is a "zero" bus and a "ground" bus.

We analyze a number of reasons that led the access shield to an emergency state.

If you have the same shield, then after reading the article I recommend that you immediately check it for such errors and eliminate them before it's too late.

So, three weeks ago, I changed the old single-phase induction meter SO-I449 (1986) to the electronic two-rate SOE-55 (2014). The counter was installed in this access shield.

The scheme of such a shield

View from afar.

The fact is that this access shield is in disrepair. I can honestly say that while working, I myself was scared to be there.

And now in order.

The residential building has a TN-C earthing system, i.e. zero working and zero protective conductors are combined into one PEN conductor, starting from the transformer substation and ending with the consumer.

The first thing that caught my eye was the common zero block.

The main PEN conductor and the zeros of all four apartments are connected to it. From poor contact and heavy load, they were heated. As a result, we see bare baked zero conductors of all four apartments.

Then I drew attention to the phase conductor, which was connected to the package switch of the apartment where I changed the meter. The wire, terminal and body of the package switch were melted. The reason is the same - poor contact and increased load.

This phase wire is connected to the “B” phase terminal block, where the main “B” phase wire is connected. Throughout it was melted, in some places there was even no insulation.

But the worst thing was that he touched the head of the screw of the phase “A” terminal block, i.e. another (non-similar) phase. Considering that its insulation was melted, and in some places it simply wasn’t there, this means that at any moment a short circuit could occur. This is what I feared the most.

The photo below shows the touch point. Upon discovering this fact, I immediately carefully pushed this wire aside, thereby eliminating the touch.

Zero pads of flats also show signs of heating. Moreover, in the 4th apartment (this is the same apartment in which I changed the meter), 3 wires are connected at once on one terminal: an input zero from the meter and two outgoing wires to the apartment. And this, by the way, is not permissible according to GOST 25034-85 "Contact screw terminals".

The owner of this apartment told me that one day she “lost the light”. She called the electricians, who quickly fixed the problem. As far as I understood, the contact was lost precisely in the zero terminal, where the outgoing zeros were connected to her apartment. From the photo you can see that the terminal was heated. Apparently the screw is so attached to the pressure plate. that the electricians could not unscrew it, so these two wires were connected with zero, which came from the meter - so it turned out that at present 3 wires are connected to one terminal at once: the input zero from the meter and two outgoing to the apartment.

A few words about group automata. In total, 2 groups go to the apartment, i.e. two automata with a rated current of 25 (A) with characteristic C are involved. One automaton is a backup, although for some reason it is turned on. And so for each apartment.

In a neighboring apartment, the situation with the state of the wires is similar (heating, insulation melting). This was not noticed in the other two apartments on the site, but after learning later that no one lives in them at all, this clarified the situation.

The reasons that led the shield to an emergency state

Let's analyze the errors that led the electrical wiring of the floor board to an emergency state.

1. Increase in capacities (loads) in apartments

Every year, the power (load) of our apartments is increasing, thanks to the acquisition of modern electrical appliances, which have not small capacities (dishwashers, microwave ovens, air conditioners, electric kettles and stoves, electric heaters, washing machines, etc.). There is no one to blame here, because each of us is trying to create coziness and comfort at home by acquiring modern technology.

Fortunately, according to Federal Law No. 261 “On Energy Saving”, we were forced to change incandescent lamps to energy-saving lamps, thereby slightly reducing the overall apartment load.

But at the same time, one should not forget that the needs of citizens 20-30 years ago and now are somewhat different. But the projects of electrical wiring of residential buildings were calculated according to the conditions of those times.

2. Cross section of input wires

If we take into account the fact that two groups of aluminum wires with a cross section of 4 sq. mm go into the apartment, then group automata with a nominal value of 25 (A) are chosen, in principle, correctly for them, although I would reduce them to 20 (A). According to the table for selecting cross-sections of conductors of wires and cables, the long-term permissible current of aluminum wires with a cross section of 4 sq. mm is 27 (A).

But the input wires that are laid from the main riser to group machines 25 (A) are made of aluminum wires with the same cross section of 4 sq. mm, which is a mistake.

Why?

Suppose that the first group will be loaded on 14 (A), and the second - on 16 (A). With modern electrical appliances, this is easily feasible. It turns out that a total current of 30 (A) will flow through the input wires. And according to the table above, the long-term permissible current of wires of this section is 27 (A), naturally, the wires will start to heat up, the insulation will melt, etc.

It turns out that the mistake of the designers is not the correct choice of the cross section of the input wires. They must withstand the total current of both groups, but it turned out that they have the same cross section.

What to do next? My suggestions

Undoubtedly, it is necessary to immediately eliminate all malfunctions in the shield. There are two options here.

The first is to call the power grid, explain the situation with the shield and call electricians to troubleshoot. They have to replace the melted wires from the main to the package switch, and then their service boundary ends there and they will have to pay for the additional amount of work.

The second option is to immediately turn to specialists who will do everything efficiently, and most importantly, correctly.

Here are my suggestions for the shield, which were explained in detail to the landlady and her neighbors.

1. Replacing the introductory package switch with an introductory machine

In any case, you need to get rid of the batch switch, and instead install a modern (modular) introductory machine (single-pole or two-pole), the rated current of which must be agreed with the power supply organization in order to observe its selectivity in relation to the input protection devices installed in the ASU -0.4 (kV).

From my own experience I will say that the introductory machine will have a rated current of 32 (A) or 40 (A).

Choose a machine manufacturer according to your financial capabilities: you can install expensive ones from ABB or Schneider Electric, or you can get by with inexpensive brands like IEK, EKF or TDM.

2. Replacement of group automata

At present, group automatic machines of the AE-1031 type (single-pole) are installed. They are, so to speak, already obsolete, but that's not even the point. They are not very reliable, when they are loaded, a large number do not pass the test, especially for thermal protection.

Introductory and group machines are installed on a standard DIN rail, which is attached to the body of the floor board in place of the old machines.

3. Get rid of aluminum wires

Currently, aluminum wires with a cross section of up to 16 sq. mm are prohibited for use in the residential sector (PUE, clause 7.1.34), therefore, installation should be carried out only with copper wires.

Introductory wires from the terminals of the trunk to group machines can be made with copper wire PV-1 4 sq. mm or 6 sq. mm. Other approved wire brands may also be used.

4. Replacing the apartment zero block

The old zero block must be replaced with a zero insulated bus for a DIN rail (SHNI), for example, like this.

5. Optional (optional)

If the first four paragraphs are mandatory, then this paragraph is more advisory. I suggested that the hostess at least conduct a visual inspection of the electrical wiring of the apartment (general condition, heating, quality of wire connections, etc.), starting from group machines in the floor panel and ending with sockets, switches, junction boxes. It would also not be bad to measure the insulation resistance of group lines, which are made of old aluminum wires.

6. Floor board connection diagram

Here is a new connection scheme in the floor board for one apartment - a minimum investment, everything is simple and reliable.

Click on the icon and your friends will read this article

I want to write a little about those nuances that must be taken into account at the time of connecting or re-swapping a floor shield when transferring an apartment to a new wiring. In fact, there are a lot of nuances, and one could even draw explanatory diagrams, but I'm too lazy to do it :) Let's take care of the floor shield: it is with it that the repair of the apartment's electrics ends. I hope that this article will also be so popular that everyone who is not lazy will steal it from me, similarly to the previous ones about the electrical plan.

Electricity enters our apartment from the floor panel. The exception is very old houses, in which the riser of the house goes in the shaft inside the house, and the shield with the meter is in the apartment. The floor shield usually contains two important things: an introductory machine, the task of which is to limit the power allocated to the apartment, and a meter to account for the consumed electricity. And most importantly - in the floor shield is happening balance delimitation property. Usually, before the terminals of the introductory machine, the management company of the house is responsible for the condition of the electrics, and after the introductory machine, the owner of the apartment.

There are two options for working with floor shields. Option one: house - new building. In this case, you don't really have to do anything. You will have everything you need in the floor panel: an introductory machine, a meter, a fire-fighting RCD, and you will be given an Agreement for the power supply of the apartment, where the allocated power will be registered (“..power xx kW, limited by the machine in yy A”) and the border balance affiliation (“.. it is delimited at the terminals of the introductory machine / knife switch”). You will receive a three- or five-wire (one- or three-phase input; when ordering, it is better to check with me in advance), and the only thing you can do is replace the standard components of such a shield with branded ones. Or do nothing at all: this is common house property - if something happens, then let them figure it out.

But with second option - secondary housing- will have to understand in more detail. Here we will deal with them. Firstly, in the old shields from houses built in the USSR there was no such thing as “dedicated power” at all. The power supply of apartments in this case is single-phase. Usually in such a shield stood:

• Packet (breaker) in front of the counter to turn off the general power supply of the apartment. It can be in the form of a rotary switch, which is better not to touch: if they are rotten and have lost the strength of the body, they explode beautifully when you try to turn them off, or a huge knife switch for everyone on the entire floor at once.
• Counter- everything is clear with him. Most likely it will have to be changed, since it will be of a low accuracy class and single-rate.
• Group RCD(in houses built in the 90s and 00s) to ensure the electrical safety of the apartment.
• Group automatic feeders. The standard set of these machines: 16A for the whole light of the apartment and usually a bathroom outlet (in the bath-toilet-kitchen block), it is powered by a light line; 16A for all sockets in the apartment and, if the house is with electric stoves, then from 25 to 40A for the electric stove.

And the most important thing is that there no PE protective conductor(before it was called "grounding"). Our task in the alteration of electricians is to bring our part of the floor shield into the proper form. Let's go over the points again.

1. Separation of the riser into PE and N. So, firstly, we need to figure out whether it is possible to switch to a full-fledged three-wire or not. The rules say the following about this. We can divide zero into PE and N only if its cross section is at least 16 sq. mm if the riser is aluminum, or at least 10 sq. mm if the riser is copper. This rule is dictated by a completely banal consideration: if there is an accident with a phase short circuit to the case, then the riser must withstand a certain short circuit current until the introductory or group machine works and disconnects the emergency line. At the same time, the riser must withstand this short circuit: if the zero of the riser burns out, then the accident will be larger and in two versions. Option one: zero riser will burn out, and up to 380 volts of power will get into some apartments. This is fraught with burnout of a part of household appliances and, possibly, a fire: for example, some small charge for a cell phone in a plastic case may catch fire. Option two: for those who similarly connected PE to zero of the riser, there will be a phase on the cases of all devices. Follow the manipulations: the phase went through the electrical appliance, returned to zero. By zero, the riser returned to zero, which no longer has contact with the riser. We have PE connected to zero riser. The phase happily rushes through PE to all the ground contacts of the sockets. Hello death.

The possibility of separation can be assessed as follows. If the house is with electric stoves, then with a probability of 95% you can safely connect PE to zero riser and enjoy life. If the house is with gas, then with a probability of 80% the riser will be very frail and cannot be used to connect PE. In this version, the shield is assembled as usual, with an RCD and differentials, and the protection works after the fact: someone was hit with a current, and the RCD immediately turned off. About how to perform this division, I will write a little later.

3. Branches from the riser. It is necessary to revise the taps from the riser themselves: whether they have a normal length and cross section for connecting an introductory machine, or not. In very old houses, packets were generally connected by a cable, and this connection must be redone.! It is usually good practice to install new nuts (or other clamps) on the riser line and organize your own outlets.

2. Introductory machine. As I wrote above, there was no specific dedicated introductory automaton before. If your house is relatively fresh, you will still find it. In this case, you put a new one of the same denomination as the old one. And if there is no introductory machine, you can call a local electrician, engineer, contact the management company and try to find out its value. Reasonable denominations should be as follows:

• 25-32A for houses with gas (frail riser);
• 40-50A for houses with electric stoves.

The exception is the intermediate series of houses with electric stoves, where the machine for the stove was 25A, not 40A. The riser there is still frail, and in this case it is not recommended to overestimate the value of the introductory machine; it can be selected in 32A.

3. Counter. You will most likely need to reseal or replace the meter, because you will need to replace the old aluminum wires that fit it. To do this, Energosbyt is called: you need to call them and tell them that you want to replace the meter or that the seal on it is broken (you can say that everything was smoking, they called an emergency gang, she came, broke the seal and redid the connection to the meter - and now it needs to be done again seal up). Usually this does not cause problems: an aunt or a boy comes, puts a filling and leaves.

4. Fire RCD. This is an RCD with a leakage current of 100 or 300 mA. Its task is to protect your apartment shield and the input cable to the apartment. The idea is as follows: in the event of a fire (or other emergency), in your apartment or floor hall, the insulation of the input cable or one of the apartment wiring cables deteriorates. This RCD reacts to a large leakage current and turns off your apartment. Therefore, this RCD, if you install it, must be in the floor shield: it will have nothing to protect in the apartment shield.

5. Cable input to the apartment. Since we are making a new shield in the apartment, we need to throw out all the old group machines and lay a new input cable into the apartment. Usually, an ordinary plastic box is used for this, which is nailed in the floor hall. Up to a heap in the same box it is convenient to lay the input of a low current. A 40x25 box is quite enough, but you can also lay something like 60x40: it can also come in handy for neighbors. The input cable goes directly from the floor panel to the apartment

And now we will discuss some points of this whole alteration.

A) PE connection to riser. Usually in all shields, zero has direct contact with the shield body, as shown in the photo on the left. Pay attention, this time I came across a very good example: the zero of the riser is clamped with a frail washer, and the shield body is not even cleaned - who can say what quality the contact is there?

Therefore, it is highly desirable to get rid of the extra connection on the PE path and connect directly to the zero riser. Moreover, this connection must be made with a separate clamp; For safety reasons, it is not possible to put the working zero tap and the PE tap under the same screw.

If you want to do good to your neighbors, then you can take a piece of wire of 10-16 sq. mm, take a metal bar (for example, a stub of ordinary brass), screw it with some metal screws to the shield body (let it have contact with it) , and bring the above-described wire from under the walnut onto it. Please note that this is exactly what was done in P44 type houses with electric stoves, here is an old photo:. On the top of the shield there is such a “shank” in the form of a welded bar with screws. And from the nut of the riser there is a wire going to it. In this case, you can use it directly without additional inventions.

B) Branches from the riser. Now the requirement for them is as follows: for each introductory machine - its own personal taps. Here is another photo from the old ones:. Here, four outlets for four apartments are assembled together under one nut. This is the right decision . If you can’t go through the entire floor shield at once (and this would be ideal: cooperate with neighbors, throw out all the stuffing, sew two or three DIN rails into the shield and install modern machines), then make yourself two personal taps directly from the riser.

And here is a living example of such hilling. It was a shield near Moscow, quite clean and tidy. We called the ZhEKovsky electrician, who did everything necessary: ​​he put two separate nuts (N and PE) on the zero of the riser, and made a new branch from the phase wire of the riser with the third nut. It remains to add an introductory machine and a fire RCD - Profit!

So, in words, ideally, you should get the following scheme:

• Branches from the riser, separation of PEN into PE and N;
• Introductory machine;
• Counter;
• Fire protection RCD;
• Cable input to the apartment.

Dare!

If you are interested in the information from this post and you want to contact me (or order /), then write to me by mail or call +7-926-286-97-35 . I respond to the name "Electroshaman".
Inattentive, stupid and arrogant salespeople and managers, I will banter hard if they do not look into, but rather rush to call.

An unscheduled shutdown of electric machines is a problem that almost every resident of an apartment and a private house, the owner of a summer house, a country cottage faced. Most often, traffic jams fly out due to surges in the power supply network, short-term current overloads after turning on powerful household or building appliances, and short circuits. In order to restore the power supply, it is necessary to determine the reasons for the shutdown, start the electric machine.

Knocked out the light in the apartment: what to do

Before you climb into the electrical panel yourself, you need to figure out the reasons for the shutdown. So, if there is no light in the whole house and neighboring ones, then the reason for the shutdown could be problems at the power plant, rolling blackouts. In this case, you should disconnect all electrical household appliances from the sockets (so that when high voltage is applied, it does not burn out), and wait for the restoration of the power supply. If you live in an apartment building of the post-war years of the twentieth century (for example, in Khrushchev), then, most likely, safety plugs were knocked out in your apartment or on the site.

In order to return the power supply, you must:

1. Exit to the landing;
2. Open the electrical panel;
3. Determine which of the plugs has flown out (this can be done visually: the white button on the black round plug will stick out of the case for a few cm);
4. Push the white button into the fuse box.

Some sites may have new electric vending machines installed. If the pedals of the machine are lowered down, then the plugs are knocked out. In order to return the light, it is necessary to move the pedals to the upper position.

Why and how to turn off the electricity in the apartment

When carrying out any electrical work, long-term departure of the owners or the occurrence of potentially dangerous situations associated with the quality of the wiring, the apartment must be de-energized. You can do this from the landing.

So, to cut off the electricity in the apartment, you must follow these recommendations:

• If the plugs in the machine are old, ceramic, without buttons, to de-energize the apartment, it will be enough just to unscrew them;
• If the traffic jams on the site are black, with buttons, you need to press the small red buttons on all of them;
• If there is a new machine on the site, in order to de-energize the apartment, you will need to lower its pedals down.

After that, you need to check whether you have turned off your machine. Otherwise, when carrying out repair work, you can suffer greatly.

Rather and easier to control the shutdown will be using a special indicator screwdriver.

Working with such a tool is simple: you just need to insert a screwdriver into the socket and check whether the indicator lights up on the tool. If yes, then the apartment is not de-energized. For such a test, any outlet in your apartment is suitable.

How to de-energize an apartment from the landing

In the apartment panel there can be several groups of switches. One group may be responsible for the light in the rooms, the other for the current in the sockets. In order to de-energize the apartment in this case, it will be necessary to move all the toggle switches of the machine to the lower position or find a common switch to which the phase and zero are connected. It is this switch that is responsible for entering electricians into the apartment. Such a switch is located under your group in the electrical panel.

In old houses, in addition to the main machine, it is necessary to turn off the switch, which is responsible for zero.

There is such a switch in the shield below. There are often two such switches on a standard landing. You can determine which of them belongs to your apartment by logic: the one that is closer to your apartment will be your switch.

At the same time, it is necessary:

• Always check whether the apartment is de-energized (voltage in sockets) using an indicator screwdriver;
• Warn neighbors about possible outages;
• Unplug household appliances that require delicate handling (computer, refrigerator, washing machine);
• Do not touch plugs in case of malfunctions of the electricity meter: a broken electricity meter can be misleading, showing that electricity is not being supplied;
• To continue repairs that require electricity, it is necessary to use special carrying cords with sockets connected to the wires of the machine. At the same time, such manipulations should not be carried out without a specialist.

If necessary, you can quickly find and turn off your machine, you can sign it. So, above the working group with a marker, you can write the apartment number.

Several ways to open the shield in the entrance without a key

The electrical panel is made of refractory material, is located in the entrance and often consists of two or three sections responsible for the machine, light meters and devices operating from low currents. Each section has its own lockable door. This key may be held by an electrician serving the house, a concierge. Often, duplicates are removed from the main key, which are issued for each apartment. This is done so that, in case of unforeseen situations, residents can quickly respond and not wait for an electrician. But what to do if the key was not given to you?

There are several ways to open the electrical panel without a key:

1. If the shield is protected by built-in small locks (as on mailboxes), you can use a female hairpin to open them. To do this, insert the pin with one leg into the upper part of the lock, the other into the lower one, and try to turn the mechanism. Instead of a hairpin, you can use any other thin but durable object. The main thing is to act carefully so as not to break the item in the lock.
2. Simple mechanisms can be opened with a flat screwdriver. To do this, insert a screwdriver into the lock and turn it to the right.
3. Padlocks can be opened with a crowbar or pliers.

Before cracking the shield, you can contact the neighbors. Often, tenants who have lived in the house for a long time have their own keys. At the same time, after an emergency de-energization of the apartment, the shield must be closed. This will protect curious children and adult residents of the house from injury.

If traffic jams are knocked out, how to turn on the electricity (video)

Power outages in old houses are a common thing, because the old electrical wiring and the machines themselves are not designed for modern electrical engineering. Therefore, often, with the simultaneous inclusion of a large number of electrical appliances, the machines knock out. If your light turns off often, then you, like no one else, should know how to quickly turn on the machine. After all, sometimes there is not enough time to wait for electricians. Use the above tips, and turn on the machines on your own quickly and safely!

Instruction

Familiarize yourself with the location and purpose of the driveway doors. Usually there are three. On the left are two doors: horizontal, and under it - square. Behind the first of them are automatic machines, and behind the second - electric meters. On the right is one vertical door, behind which are placed low-voltage devices, for example, antenna amplifiers and splitters, telephone terminal blocks. Sometimes there are shields of a different configuration.

Examine the locks on each of the doors. If they are equipped with protruding rectangular plates, any of them can be opened using pliers. The horizontal position of the plate corresponds to the vertical position of the tongue (the lock is open), and vice versa, when the plate is vertical, the tongue is in the horizontal position (the lock is closed). During major repairs, the front panels of the access shields are sometimes changed to new ones, where locks are installed, similar to those used in mailboxes. In this case, residents are most often given keys only to the door with automatic machines. Open and close it just like a mailbox.

When any of the doors is open, observe the following rules. Do not touch any metal objects inside the shield, even if you are sure that there is no high voltage on them - this may not be the case. Do not attempt to dismantle any items that do not belong to you. This even applies to the meter through which your apartment is connected - often it is the property of the power supply organization. Do not carry out any actions aimed at stopping or rewinding the meters, do not remove the seals from them. Do not turn off the machines through which other apartments receive electricity, except when necessary, for example, due to a fire or an electrical injury received by one of the neighbors.

If there are electronic meters with controls, you can, by opening the corresponding shield door, press the buttons located on them in order to find out the electricity consumption for the previous months, at different times of the day. Do this carefully so as not to touch nearby live parts. The procedure for controlling counters using the buttons is described in his instructions. It is not possible to rewind or stop it from the keyboard. Do not press the buttons on the counters of the neighbors.

If it is necessary to repair the electrical wiring, open the door behind which the machines are located. Find two of them marked with the same numbers as your apartment number. Having previously turned off computers and other devices that do not tolerate a sudden blackout, check through which machine the chandeliers are powered, and through which sockets. In an emergency, turn off the machines immediately, without waiting for the computers to turn off.

Please note that the bell and socket between the bathroom doors are usually powered through the same machine as the chandeliers. During the repair of the wiring, a person should stand next to the shield, making sure that no one approaches the shield and resumes the supply of electricity. Turn off and on the machines carefully so as not to touch their clamps and bare wires.

After completing work with the devices located in the shield, be sure to close all its doors and lock them.

To carry out diagnostics and repair of certain Opel components and assemblies, it is necessary to remove the instrument panel. If you wish, you can do it yourself. It does not require any equipment, only regular tools.

You will need

• - a set of cap and open-end wrenches, socket heads;
• - screwdriver and pliers.

Instruction

When receiving an electrical injury, starting from the 2nd degree, after first aid, the victim must be urgently hospitalized. For this, it is best to call an ambulance.

How to provide first aid for electric shock

With an electrical injury of the 1st degree, the victim himself can stop the effect of the current, since he does not lose consciousness and does not experience very severe pain and muscle cramps. However, with an electrical injury of the 2nd, 3rd, and even more so, the 4th degree, the help of other people is needed.

First of all, it is necessary to de-energize the wiring as soon as possible. If, for some reason, this is difficult, it is necessary to drag the victim away from the current source. At the same time, the person providing assistance must take measures so as not to be struck by the current himself. In no case should you take on exposed skin or metal objects on the victim's clothing. It is best to use rubber gloves, and if they are not available, wrap your hands with some kind of insulating material. It is also desirable that the one who pulls the victim away from the current source wears rubber shoes or at least stands on an object that does not conduct electricity (for example, on a dry board or on a rubber rug). While one person is performing these manipulations, the other must, without wasting time, call an ambulance.

Is it possible to return the insurance after paying off the loan?

Life insurance, income insurance, as well as collateral belonging to the person who took the loan, is one of the conditions for the implementation of the loan program of numerous banking organizations. At the same time, many borrowers are interested in a reasonable question - can

Good day, dear guests and readers of the Electrician's Notes website.

Just yesterday, one of the relatives asked me at his entrance. We did not postpone the replacement indefinitely, because. I already bought a meter from him, and I always carry mine with me in the car.

The old single-phase induction meter SO-I466, which he wanted to replace with a newer SOE-55, was on his landing in the floor board.

In this article, I will dwell in more detail not on replacing the meter, but on the floor board itself and its diagram.

So let's go.

I will say right away that the purpose of replacing the electric meter is that, you will agree, it has a number of advantages over accounting for electricity at one common tariff.

If you are still thinking about which counter to purchase, then I recommend reading articles on how to correctly and.

As I said above, my relative's old counter was on the landing (cage) in the floor board.

The floor shield is designed to receive and distribute electrical energy to the apartments of consumer citizens. Also, its main purpose is to protect outgoing lines to apartments from overloads.

And now let's take a closer look at what the floor shield consists of and the scheme of its connections.

What does a floor board for 3 apartments consist of

I forgot to mention that there are 3 apartments on the landing, which means that the floor board is designed for 3 apartments and no more. This is how it looks like:

To be more precise, this floor board has the designation ShchE-3302. Let's decipher:

• ShCHE - storey shield
• 3 - has a compartment for low-voltage and low-voltage networks
• 3 - for 3 apartments
• 02 - execution of the shield scheme (I will talk about it a little lower)

The floor board of this marking consists of 3 compartments:

• introductory
• distributive
• for low-voltage and low-voltage networks

Each compartment has its own door. Viewing windows are provided for removal.

Now let's talk about each department separately.

Introductory compartment in the floor shield

The introductory section of the floor shield consists of main wires that go through special channels (interfloor voids). The electrical wiring of the main lines is made of four-wire, APV brand wire (aluminum), with a cross section of 16 sq. mm.

All three phases of the main wires (A, B and C), as well as zero (PEN), are connected to the terminal blocks without breaking the wire itself. This is clearly visible in the photograph.

From these terminal blocks, aluminum wires of the APV brand, with a cross section of 4 sq. mm, go to the distribution compartment.

Distribution compartment of the floor board

The distribution compartment of the floor board consists of a removable frame on which special strips are located for. In our case, there are electric meters of three apartments.

Also on this frame there are DIN-rails under the group lines of apartments and packet switches, which are closed by a protective panel.

Compartment for low-voltage and low-voltage networks

There is one more branch in the storey shield, which we did not consider. This section is for low-voltage and low-voltage networks. It lays telephone and intercom cables, burglar alarm lines, internet and satellite antennas. I did not take a photo of this department, because. there was no need to look there.

Floor shield scheme

The layout of the floor shield is shown below.

As I said above, the main wires are connected without interruption to the terminal blocks. There are 4 terminal blocks in total: phase A, B and C, as well as a PEN neutral block.

From the terminal blocks with wires of the APV brand with a cross section of 4 sq. mm, the wires go to the package switches in the following order.

• phase A and zero goes to the package apartment number 2
• phase B and zero go to the packet package of apartment No. 3
• phase C and zero go to the package of apartment No. 1

Further, from each bag, the wires go to the electric energy meter of the corresponding apartment. From the electric meter, the wires go to 3 group machines. Two machines have a rated current of 16 (A), and one - 25 (A). From these group machines, the wires already go to different junction boxes of the apartment.

Hello Dmitry. But there must be some lower limit, below which the supplying organization should not go. It means three-phase power supply. According to the documents, the total allocated power per house is 5 kW. The eyeliner to the house is new SIP 4a-16mm. VL is also in good condition. A heating circuit is provided for heating and three heating elements are installed in parallel with it. I don’t know the power, now until spring, and then it’s in question. But if we take a minimum of 1 kW, then 2 kW remains for life. It doesn't work for winter. Is there anything that can be done to increase the power?
In one of your articles you wrote that power limiters are not legal. And if there is a “smart” meter and it is programmed to turn off the power when the power is exceeded. As then?

Hello Dmitry.

With the TN-C system, grounding in the apartment (without upgrading to the TN-C-S system) cannot be done. It is also impossible to connect the PE contact to the N contact in the home socket (i.e., to make zeroing), because if the PEN conductor burns out anywhere before this socket (at the entrance to the apartment or the floor below), the electrical appliances cases will be energized. In this regard, two questions:
1. Why then is it allowed to zero the shields on the landing (as in your case)? Indeed, when the PEN conductor burns out somewhere before this shield (on the floors below), the same thing will happen as when it is zeroed - that is, it will be under the “residual” potential that “came” from the zeros of all apartments located above the burnout point , respectively, presenting a danger of electric shock to any person passing through and touching this shield?
2. If, nevertheless, grounding of the common shield is allowed, is it possible, as some electricians do (“having no other option with the TN-C system”), put the PE conductor of the apartment sockets on the body of the common shield? Wouldn't this be the same as if a grounding was done in a home outlet, and therefore unacceptable?

Thank you very much))) Very good site)))

THANK YOU SO MUCH for the site! The information is presented very clearly and will be useful for both beginners and professional electricians!

Interestingly, if in this panel we replace 1 machine 25A + 2 machines 16A with one machine 40A, will this not be a violation? House management will not fine?

I did this after replacing these switches and moving the meter to the apartment. After the package switch, I connected the machine to 40 (A), from which the input cable went already to the apartment switchboard, where the meter and group machines were installed. But in order to do this, you need to agree on the value of the introductory machine with the power supply company. Come to them during office hours, tell them your situation. If you have little knowledge of electrics, then call an electrician with you.

Please tell me the correct name and marking of the transit 3-phase block to which the phases in the shield are connected. On the last photo on the right. I have a slightly different design in the shields (above the counters with a loop through the bolt). It is very necessary for the revision of the shields, but I can’t find it on the Internet for purchase.

Dear Admin, please tell me, according to current standards, is it necessary to hang tags indicating the purpose and cross-section of conductors, both phase and zero, in floor boards?

Valery, according to PTEEP, clause 2.4.5. Openly laid cables must be tagged, the cable tags at the beginning and end of the line must indicate the brand, voltage, section, number or name of the line.

Good afternoon!
If possible, I would like to know the answer to the question from Sergey on 01/30/2014 at 21:49…
Thank you!

Another question) The circuit of the shield is similar (only we have 2 group machines per apartment). Aluminum wiring, no PE. We are doing a partial renovation of the apartment and would like to do a partial modification of the electrics (without altering what is already there and altering the floor panel), but organizing several additional consumer groups: 1 (bathroom - washing machine + hair dryer), 2 (kitchen - built-in electric stove + gas panel electric ignition) 3 Kitchen (refrigerator - kitchen apron outlet group (microwave, blender ... kettle) and 4 - desktop computer (+ peripherals) and TV with DVD. Wiring 3x2.5 copper, without connecting PE to the shield.
It is supposed to organize a small apartment shield for ouzo and automatic machines only for these consumers.
Question: how to correctly and competently make a tap from the floor shield to the apartment? From one of the machine guns and a ground bus? or how? In this case, should the input be made with an aluminum wire, and then, in a small shield, switch to copper through the machine?

Thanks!!!

For your question, read on. I talked about the modernization of the floor shield there.

yesterday I changed the meter due to overestimated readings, someone already capitalized the shield very carelessly on their machines leaving the meter, I found a wire when it was turned off in my apartment, nothing turned off (in the evening a neighbor came, it turns out it was her kitchen outlet) on her machines there was also a wire from shutdown of which nothing turned off in her apartment (and the third neighbor did not turn off either). Only one phase of 16 kV enters the shield (for three apartments, last floor) and a PEN. Now the question remains - who has what zero sits on whose counter ?! By the way, my kitchen outlet with grounding also didn’t pass through my zero from the meter, but went directly to the common zero bus along with grounding (meaning zero from the socket and grounding) two wires going into the apartment are suitable for zero coming from my meter to the load - one exactly mine, the other should be called where he goes. The question is

I am going to install LED lamps in the entrance and above the visor instead of a cobra throughout the house 6 entrances and 9 floors. The desire to turn on the timer and those and others. Tell me where the power supply of the MOS comes from, if from the shield, then it is possible to combine all the entrances into 2 groups? and manage them from one place?

good afternoon! Tell me how many outgoing machines can be put on floor boards for 3 apartments for 1 apartment? in a typical project of a residential building with gas heating on the outgoing lines for 1 apartment, there are 3 automatic machines for 16A, we have a project with electric stoves and we need to install an automatic machine for 25A 220V stove 6 kW. Do I need to replace one 16A machine with 25A or can I add one 25A machine additionally?

Good afternoon!
The question arose of replacing the counter. Everything is as in the photographs, but there are no bags, although they are on the floor below. How to turn off the voltage in this case? In fact, if you hold the wire with pliers and unscrew the wires with a screwdriver, then it won’t kill you ?! And then also connect the counter back?! How to install a din-rail with your machines, so as not to remove the neighbor's machines, are they structurally installed on the same rail? If aluminum is suitable for the meter, then copper can be led from it to automatic machines, and then from each automatic machine the old aluminum wiring goes further?
If you put a bag (or an automatic machine, then how many Amperes) in front of the meter, then from it to the meter and from the meter to the machines, copper, followed by aluminum of the old wiring, is it allowed to lead?

I also want to install a separate machine for the washing machine. I just don’t know how to conduct VVGng 3x2.5 into the kitchen. Electricians offer to make input along the site to the bathroom, lower it along the water / sewer risers further through the bathroom to the kitchen, so is PES allowed? Are there any schemes for wiring channels in Brezhnevka?

Mira 150914 is better than 32 A for a stove, 16A for a socket, 10A for lighting, again depending on how many rooms it will be necessary to share the load

Alexey 111014, it’s practically possible, only pliers should be with insulated handles, and a dielectric screwdriver, and if you don’t have experience, it’s better not to risk it and call an electrician
You can put a din rail, you can loosen the screws on the bar and pull out the old machines,
You can lead copper from the meter, but if you are going to change the meter or de-energize it, it would be wiser to throw copper to it,
Before the counter, if it works, put 50A or 40A
It is better to lead along the corridor in the cable channel, without any toilets and bathrooms
Not PES but PUE

Good evening, tell me please, I'm interested in the question about automatic switches. The wiring in the apartment was replaced, but so far I have not had time to change the introductory machine in the corridor to the apartment (the old one was 25A). When the stove house was working (a separate machine in apartment 40A was on it), a short circuit occurred, the machine turned off in the inlet corridor (as I understand it, it is weaker than on the stove - that’s why it bounced), I changed the introductory machine to 50A, I think now when the stove is working it will be directly kick out in the apartment at 40A. I turn on the stove, after a few minutes there is no light anywhere. I climbed into the shield, the automatic plate 40A was knocked out, I went out into the corridor - the opening automatic machine for my apartment - 50A was knocked out and the entrance to floor 63A was knocked out. why immediately 3 knocked out? Should same be only directly on plate?

And what kind of wiring do you have, maybe because of the thermal overload it cuts, and the wire on the stove heats the neighboring

What do you mean? Wires are all new VVGng, laid on a 3 * 4 stove

Look for a short circuit, and the machine must be put on the stove 32A

Same shield. The stove is gas, so a separate, non-working zero, "zero" from the shield body does not come to the apartment.

Question. Washing machine in the bathroom. We take and equalize the potentials of all the available pieces of iron - we connect the bath, all the available risers with a thick copper jumper. You can even organize a copper bar and connect each riser with a separate wire to it. Metal pipes - they are in any way in the ground and they have an absolute zero potential.
We hang the body of the car here. That is, we connect the PE sockets for the car to our ground electrode. In case of phase leaks, the machine will knock out the ouzo / automatic machine. In a very bad case (if the leak and the machine didn’t knock out anyone, it won’t kill anyone, because all the potentials are equalized by jumpers, there is no difference, but it’s not the potential that kills, and it’s the difference - the birds are sitting on high-voltage wires, and nothing to them Neighbors either.
That is, as far as I understand, we get something in the form of a TT system with a ground electrode from water and heating pipes.
But a potential equalization system can be made, but a grounding conductor in the form of water pipes cannot be used. The question is why? I would like to hear - not because it is forbidden, but on specific examples, what this can lead to.

Serg, because now they often make tie-ins into risers from non-conductive elements. And in the event of a breakdown of the insulation on the drain, a potential may form, the difference of which with the ground can kill (and not even necessarily you - but, for example, a neighbor from below)

And I’ll add… Here you are, Serg, well done for asking. And the same neighbor from below (to consult and ask) will not do this (we are all smart). And the result will be, as in Alexey's answer, only exactly the opposite. That is, now you will be in the role of a neighbor.
Well, as a sub-option of a plastic tie-in: repairs are being made on your riser with a partial disassembly of it. That's it - there is no ground electrode - get the same difference. Needless to say, it is considered “bad taste” to warn neighbors about ongoing work.

Hot water and cold water pipes must be grounded when entering the building!

AND…? Who argues with this? Entering a building is one thing. Yes, let them be grounded at least three times: the owner of the apartment on the 3rd floor in a 9-storey building will replace his part of the riser with plastic (this is not prohibited) - “and, hello, Shishkin”: the upper floors above this owner are already without grounding this riser.

Hello. I’m a little off topic, my mother just puzzled me, decided to find the answer on the Internet and stumbled upon this site, I saw that the person is a professional, so I hope you tell me. So my mother said that in the afternoon she got a call from a neighbor on the landing, who was with the neighbor's tenants from another floor. The neighbor asked for the key to the shield, saying that the tenants from another floor want to connect the Internet to themselves ... BUT! what's with our shield? Why does a person from the 3rd floor want to connect the Internet through the shield on the 1st floor. Is there any possible scam? Please comment on the situation.

Anastasia, maybe they want to run an internet cable through your shield to their floor. Look in the article, for this there is a special compartment in the shield (for low-voltage networks and low-current cables). In general, you can ask them directly. There is no scam here.

[i] I didn’t remove the “Packet”, but when replacing group machines with modern ones and reconstructing this shield, I will definitely remove it.

And why is it necessary to do this?

if only because over time they begin to wedge and switch without dismantling it will not work, and they do not have short-circuit protection functions, by their principle it is a switch or load switch

And what do the entrance machines protect? Counter?

Counter, and cable to group machines

Answer: Paul
12/19/2014 at 21:38
Pavel, it is not necessary to install a circuit breaker in front of the meter. A switching device must be installed in front of the metering device, which can be a load switch, an automatic switch or a knife switch (switch-disconnectors), the task of which is only to relieve voltage from all phases connected to the meter.
I quote paragraph PUE: 7.1.64. For the safe replacement of a meter directly connected to the network, a switching device must be provided in front of each meter to relieve voltage from all phases connected to the meter.

What shape is the key to open such a shield? Where there are group machines, I faked it with a screwdriver and that's it, and by the way, the door is always open. But the big door is a problem to open!

Alexei:
01/13/2015 at 20:09

Please contact the Housing Office.

I have 2 Soviet black machine guns and a counter according to the same scheme, everything, only there are no jet guns. I will install Neva 101 (as I understand it, it will stand on the same holes). If you change Soviet assault rifles to 3 to 16 (the third is still in reserve). Between the counter is it worth putting an automatic machine? And which? All wiring is aluminum. What section is used (gas in the house)? Can you make a comb out of aluminum? Set automatic machines for 4.5 kA? Are Indian EASY9 Schneiders very different from Bulgarian Schneiders (at a price of 2 times)?

I've been thinking for a month now, I got to the cross section of the wire. I settled on a copper 1x4 sq mm brand PUV.

Alexei:
01/20/2015 at 02:22

It is better to put a 20A 2-pole machine between the meter and the input wire. To install it, you need to buy and fix a din rail on the shield (the din rail is selected according to the width of the machine or taken longer, then it is sawn off to the desired size). The inspector will put a seal on the introductory machine. The wire in old apartments with aluminum wire is 2.5 sq. mm. there is no less. The comb, or rather the jumpers between the machines, can be made of aluminum wire with a cross section of 4-6 square meters. mm., but it’s better to take copper, as you want and start it from the counter to the introductory machine, make jumpers on the machines with the same wire, but I would buy a comb for 3 machines (in some stores it is cut to the desired length). Automatic machines for an apartment must be taken with characteristics B or C.

Good afternoon, Protective shields have been removed from the floor panel, the wires have twists both before and after the metering device. This is after the intrusion of an electrician from the housing office. Thank you in advance

Tell me, at what distance should the storey (common) shield be located from the apartment? Is this provided for by the PUE or does it not matter.

And the wires that are connected from the top to the shield, if the difference is which wire to insert where? We have 3 wires!

Tatyana, do you mean the wires from the group machines going to the apartment? If yes, then you need to observe the polarity when connecting them - connect the phase to the machine, and zero to the zero block. I didn’t quite understand about “3 wires” - where do they go to you?

Hello, I would like to know how you can turn off (turn on) the wired Internet through the floor shield?

Incorrect question. And what, the Internet is always through the floor shield, and is certainly connected to the network? The Internet can also be supplied with optics, then you can turn it off in the classic way - from turning out traffic jams to biting the wires. For the entire apartment…

after a fire in one of the apartments on the 4th floor, in the switchboard on the 5th floor, all the wires are covered with molten pitch (I don’t know what this material is called), in one of the apartments, since November of this year, the light (intermittent) began to flash, that is, then no, but now almost daily, electricians from the housing department they will come to look, tighten the screws and that's it, time will pass, everything repeats, they say call the laboratory what to do?

I am writing about an apartment on the 5th floor. Today an electrician came again, tightened the contacts, noticed that the entrance lamp was also flashing, to my proposal to clean the contacts, because the increased temperature had some effect on their surface, said that he had been working as an electrician for 4o years, closed the box and left

Is it possible to independently replace the wires going from the bag to the meter and from the meter to the machines?

You can, if you can then independently seal the terminal compartment in the meter. There is a possibility?

Answer: Peter: 02/13/2016 at 06:55
Only qualified personnel are allowed to perform this type of work.

I’ll clarify whether it is possible to independently replace the wires going from the bag to the meter and from the meter to the machines during the planned replacement of the meter? I replaced the meter myself (according to all the rules of Mosenergosbyt), I did not like that the wires were aluminum. I would replace them too, while waiting for a sealer .. But there are doubts that I have the right to change them. I wrote an application to the counter for unsealing, etc., but what about the wires?

the bag opens both conductors - and electrical work is carried out not under voltage. Do I have to have permission? Am I confident enough in my qualifications? If I change the wires, will I have to report to someone, like for a meter in front of Mosenergo? I'm more interested in organizational issues.

Answer: Peter: 02/15/2016 at 12:32
Peter electrical installation is energized. And by turning off the VP at your metering device, you did not de-energize the electrical installation. To do this, you need to make a commutation in the ASP. To de-energize your storey SCHUR. Therefore, you continue to work under voltage at your own peril and risk.
Yes, Peter, you must have an access group and qualifications as an electrician. You can, on your own conscience, poke around in your apartment, this is your property and you can dispose of the electrical installations in it as you wish. But the Floor Shield Accounted Distribution is not your property. And if you make any mistakes during the period of any work without having, for example, the necessary skill or knowledge when connecting electrical appliances, this can end badly. Both for you and for your neighbors. Don't forget about it.

Hello.
In the floor shield there is no load disconnection to the meter (neither an automatic machine, nor a bag).
Is it possible to restart the counter in this case?
There is a suspicion that the counter "brains hung" BARS-1.113.
Until you give a good load, he does not want to count energy.
Everything is bad with electricians in the housing office.

Yuri, it is unlikely that this will solve the problem. But nevertheless, if there are no switching devices in front of the meter (and, otherwise this is a violation), then you can de-energize the main riser for a short time, although you need to order it in advance from the company that serves you by electrician.

Good day, please tell me if the outgoing wires to the packet box (we also plan to change it to 50a) should be replaced with 6mm copper (a large power load from the apartment) and from the packet box through the same 6mm bring it into the apartment and assemble a shield with machine guns there, you can Is it possible to do this? We leave the old CO-I466 counter.

Good time of the day!
I got a job in an energy sales company for the installation of metering devices and would like to ask.
We are not given the keys to the interfloor shields, such keys should only be in the zhek, the key masters refuse to do it from the existing one, is it possible to buy a similar blank and modify it with a needle file, or can you still find a good master key maker, the key is basically simple and a sample on hands have

Vladimir, you have nothing to do in these shields without the consent of the owner

I know that the counters in the floor panel are located with an inverted letter P. And how should the automatic machines be located according to the rules if they are not in the line? There are 4 apartments on the floor. There is a suspicion that the ingenious neighbor's family connected my RCD to 25A for themselves, and I got 16A. This was not even resorting to reinstalling them, they simply reconnected the wires. ((When the machine was triggered, out of habit, I looked at other machines. But a lot of time passed after I was interested in my machines, I could be mistaken.

Where does such knowledge about P upside down come from? And what, in fact, is the difference - P straight, or P upside down, if they are there or this, or that, but four?
No matter how they are placed, it is not difficult to trace with skill and understanding. But not with your fingers!

Elena, hello. To be honest, I didn’t quite understand you, namely, about the counters installed with the “inverted letter P”. It is better to send me a photo by mail, or better to the Forum (link to it in the top menu of the site), and we will discuss all the points there. Thank you.

We are talking about the location of the apartment meters “inverted with the letter P”, i.e. the count was conducted from the upper left counter to the upper right through the bottom (upper left 1kv, lower left 2kv, lower right 3kv, upper right 4kv). Such an arrangement was adopted in the USSR just so that the residents would not get confused and not check by the method of switching off and off to whom which counters belong, and even more so, they would not climb on the shield. ???
In the distribution window, too, in a certain order (only what, if they are not in line?) The levers of the machines were located (for example, for temporarily disconnecting from the network in order to change the chandelier), the wiring of the residents should not have been of interest.
After replacing the machines, I was satisfied for a long time to the distribution window did not fit. The other day, at night, from turning on a chandelier of 180 kW, electricity went out for half an apartment. From old memory, I looked into the distribution window - all four levers showed the working condition. And the neighbors (according to my old memory of the location of their machines), just one of the 4 levers worked. It turned out that by location, these are now my machines. But my memory can take me!
I thought, perhaps, you know the location of the machines according to the rules developed back in the USSR, if they are not in the same line ... Oops ...

where to find switching diagrams of cam pack switches. needed to connect the welding machine MSS 1902

Roman, what specific type, brand, model ..., or "in general"? Then there are many options.

Elena, where did you see these “rules” and when? The USSR has been gone for 25 years, during which time a lot could have changed in your RSC. Yes, and to know where you need your machines not according to the old and incomprehensible "rules", but specifically, even signing them with a marker after checking. Then the memory will fail. Well, deal with the power - 180 kW is a bit much.

Hello, on Saturday I changed the meter in the apartment, installed an ESO 711, in two days it wound up 12 kW, despite the fact that I usually do not spend more than 80 kW per month. on Thursday a representative of the PRUE will come to seal the meter.
The question is - is the meter defective or connected incorrectly ????

I’ll add a light flashing green, there were readings on the counter, but I don’t remember roofing felts 1 kW roofing felts 10))

So, you consumed either 2 or 11 kW. Somehow figure it out, guessing and helping in such a situation is very difficult.

maybe connected wrong? although 4 contacts are there to confuse (

Dmitry, good afternoon.

1. Rather Betar ESO-111, not ESO-711.
2. There really is nothing to confuse in a single-phase meter, either it will count, or there will be a short circuit. In your case, he counted a certain amount of electricity, which means it is most likely connected correctly.
3. As an option, and most likely it is - the old meter greatly underestimated the power consumption. For what reason did you replace it - by prescription?
4. As an option, self-propelled. But for two days 12 (kW) is a bit too much. Here the inspector will come to seal - ask him and he will check the error of the meter and will definitely give an answer.
5. Are you writing off the evidence correctly?!

meter SO-E711, with a digital display, I live in Kazakhstan, the manufacturer SAIMAT, on self-propelled it is unlikely that the light bulb (3200imp / kWh) flashes quite rarely and most likely 10-11 kW on the meter was already this and annoying

In the passport of the meter, the value was always written in kWh after state verification and acceptance, didn’t you look?

Well, in general, I pulled out this meter and changed it in the store I took it to a new one and set it on Tuesday at 15:00, today Thursday at 12:00 it already had 11 kW, i.e. approximately 5.5-6 kW / day. In short, the result of replacing the counter is zero.
The apartment (one-room) has a refrigerator, nothing was washed these days, half of the housekeeper's light bulbs, the computer also works almost constantly, a microwave oven a couple of times, an electric kettle a couple of times, one person lives.
The meter was sealed today.
The couple somehow turns out too much (
There shouldn’t be any kind of electronic self-propelled counter, I didn’t find any extraneous connections in the shield to my machines and wiring, there are no sockets in the walls adjacent to neighboring apartments either
CAN MY WIRING GIVE AN EXCESSIVE LOAD???

Dmitry, it means that your old counter greatly underestimated the readings. Everything turns out right. Refrigerator and PC, as you say, a constant load. Let's take a rounded view that together they consume 200 (W) or 0.2 (kW), maybe a little more, maybe a little less. You need to look at their specific characteristics or measure the current with clamps. So for 1 hour the counter will count 0.2 (kWh). For a day it will be already 4.8 (kWh). Plus lighting, microwave, etc. So you get 5-6 (kWh) per day.

Yes, I already thought so too, figured out the load, the computer is powerful there, of course, it doesn’t work 24 hours a day, but I think the power supply is 600-700 watts there, because a person works with computer graphics, since I don’t live in an apartment myself, but I rent it in I can’t accurately determine the load on consumers, and the tenant can also confuse something. Thank you all for participating

1- it was written not just once - the sensitivity zone of the SE has shifted to the left by about an order of magnitude or more. If the wheeled one did not see the TV in standby mode, the rest is similar, then your electronic one, see your passport, will see the scanty current in terms of the consumer. And there are a lot of such devices, which seem to be turned off, but still consuming, in the house and they eat everything, eat, eat like a moth ...
2- yesterday I turned on the dual-chamber refrigerator ElZhi through a device that shows both current and voltage, and consumption. energy, from 8-00 yesterday to 12-30 today, 1.8 kWh of energy has dripped, let it be 1.6 kWh from 8 to 8, multiply by 30 and get.
3- walls - hardly. You would either be "currently" or heated somewhere, and the SE would not be silent.

Good afternoon. According to the diagram, it’s not understood. What is it from the neutral wire to the machines. Is 40A written above it? And what is it on the RSH 10A diagram. THANK YOU FOR THE ANSWER.

Automatic machines 40 A for electric stoves, 25A sockets, 16 lighting. The outermost wire on the left and right groups and the right one in the middle - like a ground on the stove.
The socket is 10 amperes - service, was in the PSC, three-pin, it's just that everything is clumsily drawn. Take it on faith.

it is drawn that two automata for 16 and one for 25 are indicated in brackets above. and 40 amperes above the zero output. interestingly drawn

As they could, they drew. There is an original metal plate from the same RSH, painted exactly like that. Well, the artist was not an electrician, what to do?

Good afternoon! In the floor boards of the railway. there are no protective panels on the apartment machines. Tell me what material they can be made of (it will be problematic from metal).

Durable and non-combustible - textolite, getinaks.

Please tell us, what is the point of attaching two apartments to one bolt on the zero bus, and the third to a separate one? To save space? This moment is even reflected in the diagram.

If you mount separately, there will be no problems. Are there a lot of absurdities in this wide world? Here, at least the wires are not charred along with the screw.

I bow to all the specialists. My problem is that an electrician called at the request of Mosenergosbyt, for replacement of the account. 1985 SO-50, installed NEVu. But the data from it very badly "got" into the viewing window of the electric shield (flattering area on 4 sq. 5-floor (Khrushch). I was so upset that refused to install, wrote in the act, in the apartment, he fastened the old one and did not seal it. I saw it later
How to be? no filling??
Be kind, answer quickly, because you have to go to them, and they can easily “circle” a woman.
Thank you.

Svetlana, of course, you were stupid by refusing to install the new Neva launcher. Firstly: No one will seal the old PU for you, since all the terms of its operation have expired (16 years + another 16 if there was verification). Secondly: it’s not your problem that the readings are not visible, the shield is usually opened and the readings are written off either by the residents themselves or by authorized specialists (I don’t know about you, it’s different everywhere). You have one way out - as soon as possible inform the company that seals the PU (meters). But only to the one with whom you have concluded an agreement, her phone number is on the receipt for payment of electricity, or in your management company (apparently this is Mosenergosbyt). And inform that you intend to replace the old PU with a new one, but since you removed the seal (although, in principle, your PU is considered unusable, and you were most likely charged for electricity according to the average or standard) and tearfully ask them to install a new one. They will install the PU for you and seal it themselves. If this is not done, you will be charged a huge fine for not accounting, believe me - this is really not a joke. Explain the situation, because you still have an act in your hands stating that it was not you who violated the seal. In general, the master should have initially outlined the whole situation for you. But I have not yet seen this, to refuse the installation due to the fact that the numbers are not visible, it's just unprecedented stupidity.

Why is it impossible to attach re-conductors from the apartment to the shield body along with zero ones.

Good day. I was going to replace the old soviet plugs with circuit breakers. I have a five-story brick house (Khrushchev) built in 1968 with four apartments per floor. On the electrical panel of the landing, the plugs are divided into two rows of eight plugs. For each apartment there are four traffic jams, two upper and two lower.
I have two upper plugs - rooms and sockets of these rooms, two lower plugs - an entrance hall, a bathroom, and a kitchen with a socket. Any of the two plugs of any row turns off everything and the rooms and sockets of the same rooms. Here's how to determine which machine is 16A and which is 25A, so that later you can replace it with switches with the appropriate ratings. I am writing at length to fully describe the situation.

Good afternoon!
Unfortunately, I joined the community late.
AB-25 assault rifles or the like were installed in the floor shields, and
they were fastened with two screws to the rear panel and there could not be DIN rails. In Russia, the TN35 rail was introduced by the national standard GOST R IEC 60715-2003.

Alexander. post from 03/31/2017 at 23:48
Question to you. And where is the metering device (meter) between these "traffic jams", or ...?

My extreme left are two top and two bottom, as well as a packet switch at the bottom of the extreme left, everything is in the photo. Below are four counters in a separate compartment, and there is also a compartment for low-current currents, and there is no access to both compartments, they are locked.

Alexander, first of all, you need to look at the sections of outgoing cables or wires, depending on what you have laid from the shield to the apartment. And already knowing the cross-sections, select the correct value of the machine. , for example, using the same caliper.

my 5 cents.
actually the question is if anyone knows anything about this, a five-story building with 3 apartments per floor, my possessions begin on the other side of the shield and I want to make an input 3x6 vvg, I marked the intended hole for the wire with a cross (so as not to ditch the wall and not to enter the wire through the door box, as all the neighbors did), is it possible to drill there, will I get on the track? as I suppose, the depth of the shield is 12cm, and the thickness of the wall is 15-17 and, in principle, there should not be wires, there is no wiring detector.
thank.

Vasya, we did this in one of the panel houses. After all, the place where the main wires are laid and their entrance to the interfloor channels is clearly visible, and behind the shield itself nothing has been laid or immured into the walls. At least it shouldn't, because the wires in the shield are laid in an open way directly in the shield.

What device can be used to determine whether the shield body is grounded or zeroed?

Dear author, you can ask a question. We have a two-storey building with three entrances, three apartments per floor.
Apparently, the time has come to replace the floor shields, but I would not want to see this huge whopper of standard iron shields on the floor. Is it allowed to use ordinary shields, plastic ones like ABB,?

Alexander! Did you read carefully?
... The old single-phase induction meter SO-I466, which he wanted to replace with a newer SOE-55, was on his landing in the floor shield.
In this article, I will dwell in more detail not on replacing the meter, but on the floor board itself and its diagram ... (c)

Key words - "he wanted"!!! and the last sentence, right?

The quality of all meters is suitable, but not all electricians have suitable screwdrivers.

And most importantly, brains.

I wanted to place a fiber-optic interface converter into an Ethernet interface in the low-current section of the floor board. But for this you need a power supply of 220 (12 volts is possible). How to correctly transfer power from the power section of the floor board, from your counter to the low-current one? And in general, is it possible to do this according to the rules?

Vladislav, probably, according to the rules it is impossible. I, too, once thought, thought, thought ... and then I installed a 2-pole 2A circuit breaker in a plastic box in the low-current section of the floor switchboard in the vestibule to protect and safely replace the diode lamp for lighting the vestibule.

I have some telephone boxes in this section with a bunch of wires going to other floors. Telephone operators periodically visit and delve into these boxes, but they do not complain about my automatic machine.

Why is it impossible and what should all these IT people do? And so be it - they pull calmly from the riser without asking anyone, and then zeros and ones do not converge on the group and apartment SEs. In our house, when moving to OSMD, they found a couple of illegal IT-cable immigrants, they were supposedly allowed by the housing office.

Surfactant, I don’t know for sure, maybe formally it’s impossible. We have channels for telephone and radio lines in panel houses, but they are often clogged with garbage. Telephone operators also violate, do not want to clean the channels and climb into the 380V compartment with their wires to go from floor to floor.
So if they ever tell me about my machine gun, I'll point them to their phone lines going next to the riser.
And people sometimes put sockets in a low-voltage compartment to power any IT rubbish.

Yes, such retreats are darkness. It is both possible and impossible to hang telephones and metal lines of radio and telephone networks on supports, nevertheless they hang and fight with them, it all depends on the degree of filling the glass - whether the interested parties agree or not. This was not asked when scooping, and everything hung in a row. But if you do not allow to hang something else on the power line supports, each operator will start planting their own supports??? And in the RSC they put up, knowing perfectly well the conditions of the game - you give me a wow, I wow for you.

And why did they put a 25A machine in this shield?

Alexander, for more powerful consumers, for example, the same electric stoves, only less power than it was supposed to (5.6-8.0 kW) with the corresponding machine 40 (A), which is indicated on the diagram under an asterisk.

So it was in skyscrapers with electric stoves - 40 A per stove, 16 and 10 for sockets and light. Sometimes 16 and 16, sho outfits got.

Hello! Please, help! On the 5th floor, we have 3 apartments per floor and on the site there are old meters with a spinning disk. I think there are aluminum wires everywhere. I want to put automata on 25 amp markings so that each room is independent, and automatons on 16 amp lights. RCD 40 amps. Do I need to clarify something with the management company in advance or is it all within the framework of the guest and I can be calm? The husband says it’s possible, but grandfather, you don’t need only 1 automatic machine of 16 amperes, otherwise everything will burn down at the neighbors and on the site.

Why do you need 25 amps in sockets, and as much as 16 amperes in lighting ??? Will the welder and spotlights be installed? For sockets 16, for light and 10 with a head enough, UZO-25A
And what the neighbors burn down is only the opinion of the grandfather, no more.

I came home, the light is not on, and a private trader is working in the shield on the stairs, called by the neighbors during the repair of the apartment. She asked why the light was not on, he said that he accidentally touched a rotten wire, and it fell off. Before that, there were no problems with the shield. A minute later, the light turned on. But the anxiety remained. What to do and how to check if everything is in order on my side of the counter.

Natalia, unfortunately, this happens in old shields, which for years (or maybe decades) did not know normal maintenance - as long as no one touched the old wires, everything seemed to work, but if you accidentally touched it, something could fall off.
For example, randomly located wires prevented this private trader from doing his work, and he decided to move them a little to the side, and one wire came off.
Whether he had the right to poke around in this shield is another topic. Check for seals on your meter. If the wire was accidentally touched, it fell off, then it was screwed into place, then this is not scary, you can call the ZhEKovsky electrician to check everything. Worse, if this private trader accidentally broke off not only a rotten wire, but also some kind of rotten seal on your meter. In this case, you need to quickly go to the appropriate office and write a statement so that you are not accused of breaking the seal.

Find a QUALIFIED AND RESPONSIBLE electrician. Alas, remotely, except for the flood, it is unlikely that anything will help.

Lounger: Thank you so much for your reply. I just don’t understand how the iron wire could rot, unless they are eternal. I have a new counter. Everything else was changed for everyone in the house in 2000. Thanks again.

Natalia, as an option, there could be a loose contact in the nut from the highway or some other junction. When working in a shield, an electrician could accidentally help him come off with a slight movement of his hands. The second option, he could simply mistakenly turn off your apartment, and in order not to look stupid in your eyes, he came up with a story with a rotten wire. I do not think that if a major overhaul was done in 2000, there could be rotten wires. In any case, the mains and branches from them were changed. Although the rotten wires could already be after the meter, going, for example, to apartments, because the inputs to the apartments were probably not changed ?! In general, it doesn’t matter, the main thing is that he restored your nutrition! It remains for you, as recommended by Lounger, just to check for a seal on the meter.

The photo is not so hot, but the work is decent, some corners are worth something. Clear, accessible, understandable. I would have given for pie.

And the electrician will leave after Chuchi for Quichu, there are no papers. Either work under a paper contract, or agree in advance and advance payment. They work in the hope that only students will pay later, because they were not burned.

Hello. We decided to change the machines for an apartment. The electrician turned off the old machines, which are located in a separate place ... And the new machines are now right where the counters are .. under the same door.
We have some. I look at all the machines are as expected, but we have it differently. Tell me if this is normal?

Elena, there is nothing wrong with that, he just placed all the machines along with the counter on one DIN rail.

Modern apartments, as a rule, are equipped with individual electrical panels. But the inhabitants of the old houses were not so lucky. The equipment is brought to the landing, and is designed for two, three and even four neighbors. The owners do not have the key to the shield. In case of knocking out traffic jams or life-threatening situations (for example, a fire), it is very difficult for them to get to the knife switch.

What is an electrical panel?

A modern electrical distribution board in a residential or working room is a compact, convenient and outwardly aesthetic panel, which is intended for modular installation on this panel of special devices that serve to ensure the reception of electric current from external and general high-voltage networks, as well as the distribution of current through the internal electrical network apartments, houses or cottages.

The purpose of the switchboard is to control the admission of electricity to the apartments, and take into account the amount of its consumption. In addition, he is also responsible for the devices of the telephone and Internet networks.

General features of floor shields:

• they are old (found in houses built in the last century) and new (in modern buildings), their difference is in the internal structure system;
• each of them has at least two, and more often three compartments: one of them contains electricity meters, and the other is responsible for devices operating from low currents (Internet, telephone); any compartment is equipped with its own lockable door;
• the compartment with metering devices should be equipped with special windows, from which the indicators of the devices are clearly visible;
• the material for the shield in the entrance can only be metal with a set of necessary properties;
• to install it, choose a recess in the wall on the landing;
• sashes open freely at an angle of 95 degrees;
• access for outsiders to the device of the shield is limited by means of a lock, the key is kept by an electrician serving an apartment building.
• Types and types of electrical panels.

Surely, more than once they met abbreviations like: SHCHE, VRU, OSCH, etc. on the shields. all these intricate letters hide the essence of the devices, which is known to those who directly serve them, and sometimes even those who serve the switchboards get so used to the abbreviation that they do not think about their purposes. So, let's start considering the types and types of electrical panels from the main shield, the "king" of the shield ones.

Main switchboard (MSB).

The main switchboard is designed for input of power supply lines, electricity metering and distribution of supply lines for facilities. The device also serves to protect against short circuits and overloads in power supply networks. If we consider the hierarchy of switchboards, then the main switchboard is at the highest level. Main

the switchboard is most often located on the territory of a transformer substation (TP), boiler houses, and industries.

Introductory switchgear (ASU).

The device, which includes a complex of electrotechnical automation and structures, is used to receive an introductory power cable, distribute supply lines for SC, SC, SC, ASU, electricity metering, protect lines from overloads and short circuits. It is installed at the input of residential, public buildings, as well as in industrial premises (workshops).

Emergency input of a reserve (AVR).

The ATS shield is equipped with special automation. ATS switches power from the main source to an additional one (generator) in the event of a failure of the main electricity supplier. After the accident is eliminated, the AVR will switch from the generator to the main line and after a few minutes the generator will be stopped. It is used in industrial, commercial, communal buildings, as well as in cottages.

Board floor (ShE).

It is used in residential and administrative buildings for the distribution of electricity to 1 - 6 apartments.

The SC is mainly divided into three sections:

• Distribution compartment (modular automation for groups of electrical circuits).
• Accounting compartment (electric meters).
• Subscriber compartment (telephone, intercom, TV, radio, etc.).

Shield apartment (SC).

As a rule, it is located at the entrance to the apartment in the hallway area. The main purpose of the switchboard is electricity metering, distribution of group power lines in the apartment, modular automation protects the electrical circuit from overloads and short circuits. ShchK happen the consignment note and internal installation, metal and plastic execution.

The apartment shield is subdivided:

• ShchKU - residential accounting shield.
• ShchKR - residential switchboard.

Lighting shield (OSCH).

Lighting boards are installed in administrative, retail and office premises, for infrequent operational switching on and off of automation. SCHO protects outgoing lines from overloads and short circuits.

Lighting boards are divided into:

• OSHV (lighting shield with a switch).
• UOSCHV (recessed lighting panel with a switch).

Control panel (ShU).

The control panel is used to control automation, which are responsible for such mechanisms as: ventilation, heating, fire alarms, etc. The parameters are adjusted manually.

How to open the electrical panel without a key yourself?

1. Familiarize yourself with the location and purpose of the driveway doors. Usually there are three. On the left are two doors: horizontal, and under it - square. Behind the first of them are automatic machines, and behind the second - electric meters. On the right is one vertical door, behind which are placed low-voltage devices, such as antenna amplifiers and splitters, telephone terminal blocks. Sometimes there are shields of a different configuration. 2
2. Examine the locks on each of the doors. If they are equipped with protruding rectangular plates, any of them can be opened using pliers. The horizontal position of the plate corresponds to the vertical position of the tongue (the lock is open), and vice versa, when the plate is vertical, the tongue is in the horizontal position (the lock is closed). During major repairs, the front panels of the access shields are sometimes changed to new ones, where locks are installed, similar to those used in mailboxes. In this case, residents are most often given keys only to the door with automatic machines. Open and close it just like a mailbox.
3. When any of the doors is open, observe the following rules. Do not touch any metal objects inside the shield, even if you are sure that there is no high voltage on them - this may not be the case. Do not attempt to dismantle any items that do not belong to you. This even applies to the meter through which your apartment is connected - often it is the property of the power supply organization. Do not carry out any actions aimed at stopping or rewinding the meters, do not remove the seals from them. Do not turn off the machines through which other apartments receive electricity, except when necessary, for example, due to a fire or an electrical injury received by one of the neighbors.
4. If there are electronic meters with controls, you can, by opening the corresponding shield door, press the buttons located on them in order to find out the electricity consumption for the previous months, at different times of the day. Do this carefully so as not to touch nearby live parts. The procedure for controlling counters using the buttons is described in his instructions. It is not possible to rewind or stop it from the keyboard. Do not press the buttons on the counters of the neighbors.
5. If it is necessary to repair the electrical wiring, open the door behind which the machines are located. Find two of them marked with the same numbers as your apartment number. Having previously turned off computers and other devices that do not tolerate a sudden blackout, check through which machine the chandeliers are powered, and through which sockets. In an emergency, turn off the machines immediately, without waiting for the computers to turn off.
6. Please note that the bell and socket between the bathroom doors are usually powered through the same machine as the chandeliers. During the repair of the wiring, a person should stand next to the shield, making sure that no one approaches the shield and resumes the supply of electricity. Turn off and on the machines carefully so as not to touch their clamps and bare wires.
7. After completing work with the devices located in the shield, be sure to close all its doors and lock them.

Preventive electrical inspection

Checking the operation of the floor board should be carried out by a specialist from the management company, in the statement of which the apartment building is located, at least once a year.

Unfortunately, this rule exists only in words. In life, the master comes to the call only after a breakdown or an emergency, and you want to avoid both. Or, let's say you buy an apartment and you need to assess the condition of the wiring.

You can carry out a preventive examination yourself, most importantly, follow the safety requirements.

For an independent audit of the access shield, follow these step-by-step instructions:

1. Inspection of the external state of the device. Everything is fine if it does not have serious cracks, chips and other defects, and the lock on the door closes tightly with a key.
2. Assessment of the condition of internal devices. The machines must be marked, and the cables and wires must be clearly and clearly signed.
3. Serviceability of contact connections. For junctions of wires with metal, the following rules apply: check for rust; inspect the bolted connections for the presence of washers, and tighten the nut better. After that, pay attention to the wire connections to the automatic meters.
4. Operation of switchboards. After all contacts are checked, nuts are tightened and bolts are tightened, it is necessary to check the serviceability of automatic devices. Return voltage to the electrical panel and turn on all automatic appliances.

Further, everything is very simple. Press the test button ("test"). Devices that continue to work are faulty and need to be replaced. Before testing, you need to make sure that the contacts do not leave, otherwise the result will be unreliable.

Anton

Everything opens with a standard shield key. We have 2 types of them - one as for ancient castles with a beard and the second is just a figured piece of iron. Both types are sold in hozmagah or from huckster-keys in the market.

Konstantin

Indeed, there is no reception against scrap))))))) then those who will repair the shield will come to the forum.

Kolesnichenko Margarita

Screwdriver or something that has a flat shape

Burglars open doors in various ways, up to explosives. I don't yell. Here the approach is the same. Start with gentle ways and move on to rougher ones. Explosives are unlikely to be needed. Rough should include crowbar and drilling.

[email protected]

According to the idea, the key should be in the management company (in the housing office, for example).

Vadik

You can try to pour the solvent into the keyhole or not concentrated acid. "vdshka" is not sure what to do. Go to the housing office to complain. If there is an electrician in the same panel, then they must fix it themselves.

Yuri Morozenkov

pliers

Olga Kuznetsova

I opened it with my mailbox key. Uncle from the Future...

With a crowbar or a fitter :)))))) But in general, just press the door in the place of the lock and pull it back in the middle .... once and done... Just do not forget to close the back, otherwise they will be penalized :)))))) Or you can turn the entire lock with a powerful screwdriver. . but this is only if the lock tongue is rotary and not retractable ....

findings

To answer the question: how to open the shield in the entrance without a key, you need to try the following method.

• In addition to the master key, a flat screwdriver is also suitable. It must be thin. Insert into the lock and try to turn. In most cases, it turns out with simple mechanisms.
• If this is a padlock, then you can try physical strength and crowbar. Padlocks are easily opened with a mechanical lever or a master key. If the question further arises: how to open the electrical panel in the entrance without a key, then you just need to contact the specialists. Today there are companies that specialize in opening various types of locks without a key and without damaging the locking mechanism.

Floor electrical panel or floor switchboard is designed for distribution and metering of electricity to the apartments of the floor. To do this, various automatic devices for distribution, protection, electricity metering and other automation devices are installed in the storey electrical panel. Also, distribution devices for low current networks (telephony and computer network) are installed in the floor shield.

The floor board (ShE) refers to the accounting and distribution boards that combine power and low-current electrical wiring. Unlike control panels (CS), which provide power to electrical installations and control their technological processes, SCs provide the reception and distribution of electrical energy to consumers. By the way, control cabinets manufactured by Megaholod will allow you to solve any tasks of automating refrigeration, ventilation equipment and air conditioning.

A distinctive feature of the SC is the presence of a low-current section and windows for external reading of electric meters.

Storey electrical panel - general characteristics

• Floor electrical panel has two or three compartments. One for distribution or electricity metering and distribution. The second compartment is designed for low-voltage networks (telephony, Internet, signaling). All compartments must have separate doors.
• The floor electrical panel with installed meters must have plexiglass windows, through which the meter readings must be clearly visible.
• The floor board belongs to distribution boards of the 1st class and is made only of metal.
• Typically, a floor shield is installed in a niche, but there is also a wall installation.
• The doors of the shield must open at an angle of at least 95⁰.
• The doors of the shield must be locked with a key or have a special locking device.

How to install a storey electrical panel

Of course, you do not have to mount storey electrical panels. It is enough to figure out how it is arranged and where what terminals are provided in it. Consider the device of the old and new floor boards.

Old floor shield

Consider, more or less, a standard old-style electrical panel (see photo), in good condition.

The floor board in the photo is intended for four apartments. It is divided into four parts.

For each apartment, an introductory circuit breaker and a group of automata to protect the group circuits of the apartment are installed. The group of far-right automata should belong to the far-right apartment on the floor.

Instead of circuit breakers in the floor board, you can install combined releases (differential circuit breakers). They must be class B or C and have a switching capacity of at least 3000 amps. Let me remind you that the switching capacity is the ability of the device to work after a short circuit of 3000 amperes. That is, there was a short circuit in the circuit with a current of 3000 Amperes and the circuit breaker was knocked out. After that, you cock the machine lever and it works further.

I advise you to choose circuit breakers with a switching capacity of about 10,000 (ten thousand) amperes.

New apartments are usually equipped with personal shields. In this they were lucky, unlike the inhabitants of old houses, who suffer due to the lack of personal electrical panels. Switchboard equipment in old buildings is located in the stairwell. In this case, the electrical panel provides electricity from two to four apartments at the same time, depending on how many apartments are located on the floor.

Usually, the inhabitants of the houses do not have the keys to the electrical panel. However, there are situations when it is vital to open the electrical panel - when plugs are knocked out or, even worse, a fire. In order not to find yourself in such a situation, you should know how to open the shield in the entrance, even if there are no keys.

Electrical panel: what is this device

The lack of a set of keys from the electrical panel by the residents is justified by the fact that in this way their safety and the safety of the other inhabitants of the residential building are ensured. An ordinary person does not have the special skills to fix problems without damaging anything, without hitting high-voltage cables, and without killing himself.

Important! This device is responsible for the uniform and uninterrupted distribution of electric current to all living quarters. The appearance of the device is a neat and small socket, its purpose is the modular installation of special mechanisms on this socket.

They serve to guarantee the receipt of direct current from external and general-purpose networks. The device distributes the received current to all residential areas of the building.

How to open the electrical panel in the entrance without a key

Even if the inhabitants of the apartment do not have a key to the shield located in the driveway, there is a way to open the shield. Open doors only as a last resort. By following the steps below, you can easily open the shield:

• Exit to the driveway and examine the location of the doors. Their standard number is three. There are two of them on the left side of the panel - under the horizontal one there is a door in the shape of a square. In the first one there are automatic machines, in the second there are several electric meters. On the right side there is a vertical door, it hides low-voltage mechanisms.
• Examine the lock on the doors. If the locks have protruding plates, then use pliers to open. The plate in a horizontal position means that the tongue is in a vertical position - an open lock. The plate is in a vertical position, which means the tongue is in a horizontal position - a closed lock. Using pliers, turn the plate to the desired position, then it will open.
• When working with a shield, be careful. Do not touch metal parts - there is a risk of electric shock. Do not remove items from the shield - this is dangerous and illegal. Do not try to stop the meter in order to save money - such actions are illegal, and you will be fined for this.
• After completing the necessary actions, do not forget to close the doors of the shields and lock the locks.

How to open the Cable TV box in the entrance

There are emergency cases when there are interruptions in the operation of cable television. You have to call the TV provider and wait two to three days for the user to be reconnected. If the user does not want to wait, then you can try to open the cable TV box yourself and fix the breakdown.

You can use the same method as for opening the flap. You can just cut the lock, but in this case, the subscriber will have to explain to the TV provider why he did it. The best option is to call the provider. Even if you have to wait, all actions will be legal.

findings

Even without the keys to the shield, there are methods to pick the locks. However, this should be done only if an emergency really arose - when plugs were knocked out due to DC surges or if there is a suspicion of a fire threat. Be sure to follow the safety rules, do not touch metal objects, as they can be dangerous to humans. Out of idle curiosity, you should not open the locks.