How an imitation of timber is attached to the wall of the facade: features of the technology and types of connecting elements. Imitation of timber in wall sheathing and how to properly fix the imitation Installation of imitation timber inside

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Before finishing work, many novice craftsmen want to know how to fix an imitation of timber inside or outside the house, as they make a choice in favor of this material. Such products are actually a kind of wooden lining, so all its qualities are inherent in it. Ecological purity and aesthetic appeal are especially appreciated by consumers.

Material base

Before fixing the finishing panels, it is necessary to prepare the surface properly. In this case, it is necessary to create an even and stable base that will not be deformed. It is recommended to consider two basic options.

Lathing from boards or bars

Very often, fastening the imitation of timber to the wall requires the creation of a supporting structure, since in most cases it is necessary to align.

As elements of the carrier system, bars with a different cross section or a thickness of at least 25 mm are usually used.

1. Using the level, the most extreme racks are installed. If the wall is too uneven, then pieces of wood are placed in some places. When fixing, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws, since with their help you can pull out the elements of the crate;
2. A string is stretched at the top, bottom and in the central part, along which the intermediate racks will be aligned. To do this, small screws are screwed in six places or cloves are clogged. The string used must be well taut;
3. With a step of 40-50 cm, the remaining parts of the supporting structure are installed. Fasteners should be located at a distance of no more than 60 cm from each other. About 50 mm should be retreated from the floor and ceiling. In the presence of deflections in the lateral plane, it is necessary to use wood inserts.

Attention!
If necessary, additional thermal insulation of the wall can be made using foamed polyethylene or mineral wool.
In the first case, the material is placed under the crate, and in the second - between its elements.

Racks frame structure

When erecting a new object, the finishing panels can be fixed directly to the elements of the finished frame. To protect the insulation, waterproofing is required. To create a ventilation gap, a control rail is usually mounted.

Applicable fasteners

Installation of panels of finishing material is carried out using various fasteners, the price of which is not so high. Below are the main options that are applicable under normal conditions.

All of them allow for hidden fixation:

• finishing nails are thin metal rods that do not have hats;
• self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are fasteners designed for hidden installation;
• clampers are holding parts that need additional fixation with brackets.

Attention!
If you fasten the imitation of timber with ordinary nails and self-tapping screws directly to the front part, then the aesthetic characteristics of the coating will be significantly violated.

Fixation points

Each panel is one that has a groove and a tongue. Through them, it connects with the rest of the fragments of the finish. Thus, a continuous coating without gaps is obtained. Fasteners can be installed in various places.

When finishing nails and special self-tapping screws are used, fixation is made to the inside of the groove or next to the ridge. Subsequent panels after connection successfully close the fixing parts.

Self-tapping screws and nails should be screwed into the extreme strips or driven directly into the front part along the entire edge. After the final finishing, they will hide under the baseboards.

The fastening of the imitation of the beam with the clamps is carried out only from the side of the groove. The metal element is inserted so that exactly the lower part is held. Brackets are inserted into special holes, nails are driven in or suitable self-tapping screws are screwed in.

The part itself, after mounting another panel, is completely closed, so the aesthetics of the coating is not disturbed. It is necessary to choose the size of the fastener correctly, otherwise the elements will hang out. This will reduce the life of the finish coat.

In the selection process, the distance between the base of the part and the protruding plate should be taken into account. It should match the thickness of the bottom of the material groove.

Just in case, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with how to properly fasten the imitation of a beam if the screws are installed from the front side. This option is quite possible, but the parts must be recessed some distance deep into the panel.

After that, a special pin is made of wood, corresponding to the diameter of the hole obtained during the installation of fasteners. It is inserted using an adhesive composition. After installation, the surface is covered with putty.

If there are no special requirements for aesthetic characteristics, then nails can be driven directly into the front part. In this case, the speed of work will be much higher.

Final part

Above, a special instruction was presented, considering in detail how to fix an imitation of a beam from the outside or from the inside directly with your own hands. As for the choice of option, much depends on the operating conditions and preferences of the master. So that novice builders can better master the material proposed for study, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the video in this article.

Imitation of timber is one of the most popular materials for exterior and interior decoration. It has not only an attractive appearance, but also excellent environmental qualities. Homeowners are attracted by its affordable price and easy installation.

Best upholstery material

Imitation timber is a profiled sheathing board with beveled edges that resembles a real timber. For its manufacture, mainly coniferous woods, larch and cedar are used.

False timber is a worthy competitor to such a popular material for sheathing as lining. He has a number of positive qualities. Firstly, the pseudo-beam is absolutely natural and environmentally friendly, therefore it does not pose any threat to human health. Secondly, its operation can last for decades, of course, subject to proper installation and subsequent maintenance. Imitation of timber is resistant to deformation and cracking. Thirdly, due to the special properties of wood, heat and sound insulation of the room is provided. In winter, the house retains heat better, and in summer it is cooler.

Larch timber imitation is the best solution for interior and exterior wall decoration. The material is resistant to decay, is not afraid of moisture and has a beautiful texture and color. Ease of installation is facilitated by low weight and the presence of a thorn-groove mounting system. You can buy false timber from larch by clicking on the link.

The disadvantage is the fire hazard and the need for periodic maintenance, namely the treatment with antiseptics and varnishes.

Preparing for installation

First of all, it is necessary to calculate the amount of material that will be required to finish the room. This is fairly easy to do once you know the size of the panels you plan to use and the surface area to be finished. The most popular board width is 135 mm, and the length varies from 3 to 6 meters. Choose the length so that there are as few joints as possible. When calculating the area of ​​the board, do not forget to subtract the dimensions of the groove.

When measuring the wall area, subtract the area of ​​windows and doors, as well as areas covered with tiles or decorative stone.

To determine how much timber you need, divide the area of ​​the walls by the area of ​​one panel. But keep in mind that the resulting number assumes that all the boards will be used without a trace. This happens very rarely, so 5-10% should be added to the result as an error.

After purchasing the material, it must be taken to the place of work about a week before the start of installation. In seven days, the tree acclimatizes and adapts to the humidity of the environment. If this is not done, the panels may be deformed during operation.

Then the pseudo-beam is treated with an antiseptic. Before installation, this is easier to do, since then the locks and grooves will no longer be available. At the same stage, you can cover the panels with a layer of paintwork.

It is necessary to prepare not only the material for cladding, but also the walls. They need to be aligned to make it easier to mount the crate. If the house is wooden, the walls are treated with an antiseptic, after removing the paint. Using a spatula and a metal brush, clean the dirt.

After preparation, you can proceed with the installation of imitation timber.

Stages of work

The first step is to fix the waterproofing. Glassine or other similar material is fixed to the wall with aluminum tape or any other suitable fastener. The edges are overlapped.

From above, the waterproofing is pressed by a crate of dried square-section timber. The intervals between the posts must correspond to the width of the insulation sheets.

The next step is thermal insulation. In the intervals between the bars of the crate, a layer of insulation (polystyrene, mineral wool or any other material) is laid. This prevents condensation from building up inside the wall and helps keep the room dry.

A second layer of waterproofing is laid on the insulation, which is attached in the same way as the previous one.

For interior decoration, it is not necessary to use insulation and vapor barrier. In this case, the imitation of the beam is attached directly to the grate. After completing all the preparatory work and acclimatizing the material, you can proceed directly to the cladding.

The installation of the boards starts from the bottom. The first is fixed exactly according to the level, and all subsequent ones are aligned along it. The panels must be laid out so that the groove is on top - this prevents the accumulation of moisture. To prevent the sheathing from warping, gaps of 1-3 mm should be left between the boards.

Types of fasteners to simulate timber

To fasten the imitation of the beam, nails, self-tapping screws and kleimers are used. Nailing is the easiest way. The panels are nailed to the lathing bars. Nails must be taken galvanized, their length must be no less than the thickness of the panel plus half the thickness of the lathing bar. The solution is simple, but unaesthetic, as hats are visible. To improve the appearance of the lining, you can use finishing nails with miniature hats.

Screws and self-tapping screws will help provide a secret fastening. They are screwed into the spike at an angle of 45 degrees or into the front part, where holes are pre-drilled. Then they will need to be masked.

Stamped steel clamps are mounted on the crate, and boards are already hung on them. It is recommended to use kleimers for interior decoration.

About the advantages of timber imitation

Imitation of a bar has the following advantages.

1. Firstly, the material does not crack, and the integrity of the fibers is not violated, that is, you can not be afraid that any deformations may occur.
2. Secondly, the imitation of timber will retain its appearance for many years.
3. Thirdly, the imitation of a bar is absolutely not afraid of sudden temperature changes.
4. Fourthly, the described material is not at all afraid of corrosion, its surface is not affected by microorganisms.
5. Fifthly, it is worth noting that the imitation of timber is a very durable and reliable material.
6. Sixthly, it is very simple to mount the imitation of timber.
7. Seventh, it is worth noting that the material itself is not expensive.
8. Eighth, imitation of a bar belongs to environmentally friendly materials. It has the ability to saturate the air with antioxidants, which has a positive effect on health. This is especially helpful for people who suffer from asthma.
9. Ninth, the material weighs very little, which is also of great importance.
10. Tenth, the finished finish looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing.

Wall decoration with imitation of timber is simple. Especially if a person is already familiar with the construction business. Before proceeding with the installation, it is advisable to transport the goods to the territory where the installation process will be carried out. This is necessary in order for the wood to acquire the moisture that is typical for the conditions of the area.

Installation of imitation timber can be carried out even by a poorly trained home master. These are convenient and practical products that are delivered to retail outlets completely ready for use.

Moreover, the technology for the production of profiled lumber (lining, blockhouse, false timber) involves the milling of complex technological sections, which further simplifies the sheathing process. In particular, the presence of a stepped edge helps to fasten the imitation of a beam in several ways, depending on the technical conditions, and also to make the hardware used completely invisible.

Features of assembling frames for false beams

Vertical or horizontal

It all starts with the correct preparation of the subsystem. Facing with imitation timber is usually carried out using a hinged wall frame, which is fixed to an existing wall by means of metal consoles.

In this case, the main elements of the frame are located perpendicular to the required location of the planks of the skin. Usually in Moscow, an imitation of a beam is mounted horizontally, and then the frame racks are fixed vertically. Sometimes homeowners choose a vertical method of attaching a false beam (or diagonal), therefore, the frame is then oriented in the form of horizontal runs.

Bar or profile

For lathing under the imitation of timber, the use of edged coniferous timber can be considered a classic of the genre. A bar with a section of 40X40 mm or 40X50 mm is used most often. Sometimes lumber is also used more powerful - with a width of one of the sides up to 70 mm. We recommend impregnating the wooden frame with an antiseptic before finishing the sheathing.

Profiles made of galvanized steel are mainly used in conditions of high humidity, as well as when large temperature fluctuations are likely. This option is most often chosen when facing facades, as well as, for example, when building a sauna / bath. The profile here can be taken as an ordinary "ceiling" type CD (if a relatively light false beam with a thickness of 16-18 mm is ordered). But also often preference is given to metal facade profiles, which are endowed with pronounced (sometimes also additional) stiffeners and have a wall thickness of about 0.6-1 mm.

What are wall brackets made of?

In some cases, you can do without brackets at all. Such a solution is possible if the bearing surface does not have deviations from the vertical, and also does not have other indications for a significant alignment of the plane (book, helicopter ...). Then, in order to fix the bars, holes are pre-drilled through them, then the wall is drilled through these holes, and expansion anchors are installed.

Within certain limits, adjustment on the anchors can also be made. This is done by using spacers for the bars.

Brackets are indispensable when the frame needs to be completely moved away from the wall (for example, in order to place insulating materials here), or when significant local irregularities need to be neutralized.

Basically, perforated corners are used for these purposes, as well as various U-shaped hardware. A good solution would be to use special facade consoles. The well-known “direct suspension” (“pawn”) can also be ordered for mounting an imitation of a beam, however, it must be borne in mind that such products are not designed to carry significant bending loads.

To ensure proper stability of the load-bearing frame, the distance between the brackets installed for each rack must be properly selected. One hardware is fixed at the bottom and top of the rack, between all other brackets there should be from 500 to 750 mm.

What is the distance between the elements of the frame must be maintained

Very often, users ask a question about the appropriate step for arranging the details of the crate. There can be no single answer here. At this point, you need to take into account that the imitation of a bar can have a thickness of only 16 mm, and there are also products with a thickness of slats of 28, 35 or more millimeters.

If the boards are thin, then the step between the racks should be done more, and vice versa.

As a rule, sheathing frames are assembled in such a way that it is then possible to insulate the enclosing structure as conveniently as possible, without unnecessary trimming. Manufacturers of thermal insulation (mineral wool, etc.) usually for this reason make their plate materials with dimensions of 500-600 mm by 1000-1200 mm. Accordingly, just such a distance is kept between the racks / girders for mounting the imitation of the beam. The size of the resulting span is measured along the axes of the supporting elements of the frame, then due to the elasticity and elasticity of the mineral wool, it becomes tight in place.

Features of fastening slats imitation timber

How to orient false beam lamellas

Horizontal installation of imitation timber in Moscow is most often chosen, because this is how the sheathing turns out to be as similar as possible to the surface, consisting of a real massive timber (the crowns of a timber frame are located horizontally).

Another point is important here. It is extremely important where the details of the castle will “look”. So that water does not flow into the lock (and also so that there is no permanent unaesthetic pollution) and does not accumulate in the connection area, the groove must be turned down. Accordingly, each plank of imitation timber must be fixed to the top with a spike.

When facing the facade, this principle must be unshakable, while indoors such stringent requirements are not so categorical.

Top down or bottom up

Where to start trimming? In the vast majority of cases, the sheathing starts from the floor (or from the blind area / basement). Assembling a plane by imitation of a beam in this way is convenient in that each subsequent plank, even before fixing, keeps well in its place, as it rests on an already fixed bar.

The disadvantage of this option is that it is rather difficult to predict how the last imitation timber plank fits the roof overhang. In fact, not whole planks are often obtained here, sometimes you have to deal with wedge-shaped cuts that are clearly visible and spoil the appearance of the cladding.

This is largely why professional installers sometimes start cladding from the roof/ceiling and work their way down.

How to fix an imitation of a beam in the corners

The inner corner obtained by the false beam sheathing, as a rule, does not need further refinement with the help of some additional wooden elements - the planks simply need to be carefully fitted to each other. Then the fixing of the slats here must be carried out in a hidden way.

At the outer corners, after the lining is completed, a decorative corner is mainly installed, which masks the ends of the planks, and also hides the resulting seam. Therefore, here you can use fasteners according to the “through the body” principle, when two self-tapping screws are scrolled near the ends for each bar, but so that they are then blocked by the corresponding extension.

Through the body, the first planks are also fixed, which are located near the floor. Fasteners are placed here in such a way that they are subsequently closed skirting boards.

Fasten through a groove or through a spike

Installation of imitation timber through a spike is performed to obtain the most inconspicuous connection. The nail (or self-tapping screw) should pass through the bar at an angle close to 45 degrees. Then the head of the hardware is slightly sunk into the wood, then it is completely covered by the groove of the next plank.

Fastening is also carried out through the groove, but this is done using the so-called "kleimers". Kleimer is a small perforated bracket, which is selected according to the thickness of the groove shelf. It is put on a groove, and then cloves are punched through its holes or self-tapping screws are scrolled.

Also, a profiled board imitating timber can be used in the construction of light frame houses. The technique of fastening the facing boards here will be largely similar, although there are also some nuances - they mainly relate to the preparation of the supporting frame.

One of the most beautiful, aesthetic and practical materials is wood. Recently, home decoration with imitation timber has become very popular.

With its help, the building is clad both outside and inside, while flat or rounded elements can be used.

For sheathing the house inside or outside, wooden panels are used, having different thicknesses.

After finishing with such material, people get the impression that the house is completely made of timber; it can be used to clad houses made of various building materials.

The main advantages of finishing a house with imitation timber:

• this material has high thermal insulation characteristics, so you not only decorate, but also insulate the facade;
• it is a natural material, it is environmentally friendly and safe for human health, so it can be safely used inside the house;
• the material is relatively cheap and with its help any building can be made to look like a wooden house;
• used for finishing buildings made of a variety of building materials;
• easy and simple to install;
• has a long service life;
• improves the soundproofing characteristics of the house;
• has a small weight.

Among the disadvantages of imitation timber, the following should be noted:

1. since it is a wooden material, it has a high fire hazard; to reduce it, the panels are treated with flame retardants;
2. if the integrity of the structure is violated, then the material may begin to rot and deform, therefore, the house must be constantly monitored and defects that have appeared immediately eliminated;
3. periodically it is necessary to treat the surface with antiseptics and open it with varnish. If high-quality materials are used, then such processing should be done every 5-8 years;
4. if rare wood species are used, then the price of such products will be high.

Mounting technology

Panels that imitate timber have special locking joints, so their installation is simple and quick, and any home master will be able to cope with this task.

To perform the work, you will need the following tools and materials:

• calculated number of panels;
• timber with a section of 50x50 mm, which is used to create a crate;
• beam section 25x50 mm for the counter-lattice;
• suspensions;
• jigsaw;
• a hammer;
• measuring instruments;
• self-tapping screws;
• kleimers, if the installation is carried out inside the building.

First, preparatory work is carried out, during which the surface of the walls is cleaned of dirt and dust.

After that, the installation of a wooden crate is carried out, for which bars with a section of 50x50 or 25x50mm can be used, it all depends on the thickness of the insulation. If the wall is flat, then the crate can be mounted directly on it, in other cases, the installation is carried out using suspensions.

On flat wooden walls, the crate is fastened with self-tapping screws, in other cases, its installation is carried out using dowels.

A vapor barrier of the walls is necessarily carried out; for this, a special film is attached under the crate. They do this with an overlap, which should be 10-15 cm, and with the help of adhesive tape all joints are well glued.

Facade finishing

If the imitation of timber is mounted on the facade of the building, then heat-insulating material must be laid. For this, both rolled and matte materials are suitable.

Depending on the purpose of the building and the climatic zone in which it is located, the thickness of the insulation may be different, but usually it is 50-100 mm. Heat-insulating material is laid between the crate on the vapor barrier.

Outside, the insulation must be protected with a wind-moisture protective membrane and all its joints are again glued with adhesive tape.

After laying the moisture-proof film, it is necessary to install a counter-lattice on it, for this, bars with a section of 25x50 mm are used, it is needed to create normal ventilation of the sheathing material.

Some masters do not make a counter-lattice due to the fact that there are ventilation recesses on the panels, but they may not be enough to ensure normal ventilation, so the wooden elements begin to rot and collapse.

Now you can proceed to the installation of panels, work starts from the bottom and moves up. The upper edge of the panel is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws, after which the groove of the next panel is put on the spike of the previous one and it is fixed again with self-tapping screws.

If it becomes necessary to screw the panel through, then the head of the screw is slightly recessed, after which it is covered with a mixture of varnish and sawdust, and when the composition dries, this place is treated with sandpaper.

If you purchased unpainted panels, then they must be treated with an antiseptic and varnish, it is better to do this before installation, since then it will be more difficult to paint over the joints.

Ways of fastening panels and creating joints, outside

Depending on the width and thickness of the panels used, their fastening can be done in several ways:

1. anodized self-tapping screws through the panel itself, but after that it will be necessary to mask their hats with wooden inserts or putty;
2. at an angle of 45 degrees into the spike of the panel, so that the material does not crack, it is recommended to make a hole first;
3. with nails, in this case the panel will be able to move a little, and will not crack. The length of the nail or self-tapping screw should be such that it can enter the crate for 2/3 of its length;
4. using clamps, but this method is suitable for panels of small thickness, so it is usually used indoors.

There are several ways to join boards in the corners:

• by washing them down at an angle of 45 degrees;
• using a decorative wooden block, it must be purchased separately;
• with the help of boards interconnected by the letter "G".

If it becomes necessary to join the panels in length, then this can be done through a plank, which is equal in thickness to the skin or by washing down the edges at an angle of 45 degrees.

After the installation work is completed, the imitation of the timber is covered with a deep penetration antiseptic, allowed to dry, and then a decorative and protective coating of the desired shade is applied and everything is varnished, waxed or painted.

When carrying out interior decoration, two layers of paint and varnish coating are sufficient, on the outside they need three.

How to mount indoors

The peculiarity of these works is that the use of insulation is optional, so you can take thinner bars or a galvanized profile.

If the walls of the room are even, then the imitation of a beam can be mounted without a crate, so you can save free space.

If the installation is carried out in a heated room, then the panels can be painted no earlier than a month after their installation, it takes time for them to dry out, after which small cracks will not form on the surface.

fasteners

Since panels with a thickness of 16-21 cm are used indoors, their fastening can be done using clamps or self-tapping screws.

Reinforced climber

These are special metal elements in the form of a bracket that allow you to securely fasten the panels to the crate, while remaining invisible, the size of the kleimers (number) is selected taking into account the thickness of the rear groove of the panels.

Reinforced kleimer is suitable for fastening imitation timber both indoors and when cladding the facade.

self-tapping screws

In addition, imitation timber can be fastened with galvanized screws or self-tapping screws, as well as building, screw or finishing nails.

Conclusion

If you want to transform your home, make it beautiful and unique, while spending little money, carry out its lining.

With the correct installation of imitation timber, you will get an excellent result that will delight you for many years and all this will be done by yourself.

Useful video

Sheathing the house with an imitation of timber in the video below:

In contact with

Every owner of a private house knows that the appearance of the home is just as important for the convenience of living as the interior comfort. An environmentally friendly and modern material today is imitation of timber. It is a panel that is installed according to a certain technology. If you observe accuracy during installation, you can achieve a quality finish that will delight the family for several decades.

Technology for installing imitation timber

Installation of imitation timber is carried out in several stages, among them:

• choice of material and components;
• wall preparation;
• installation of the crate;
• work on the installation of panels;
• protection of the finish with a decorating composition.

It is noteworthy that the imitation of timber is a universal material, which can be installed not only outside, but also inside the premises.

Preparation of tools and materials

In order to carry out work on the installation of imitation timber, it is necessary to prepare:

• self-tapping screws;
• dowels;
• nails;
• kleimers;
• timber or galvanized profile;
• thermal insulation;
• waterproofing;
• screwdriver;
• protective composition;
• drill.

The beam will be used for the manufacture of battens, the elements of which can be galvanized profiles. For the outer wall you will need waterproofing and insulation. The screwdriver can be replaced with a clamping gun. If the house has concrete or brick walls, then you will need a drill. For the accuracy of the location of the imitation of the beam, a building level should also be prepared.

Before you carry out the installation, you need to take care of the choice of panels. For interior cladding, grades A, AB, B, as well as extra are best suited. As for the external walls, the material is perfect for this, the width of the elements of which starts from 100 mm. If you use a less impressive width, then the finish will look like a lining. As for the interior trim, the width should be reduced to 21 mm.

Installation of imitation timber should begin with the preparation of the material. To do this, it should be brought into a dry room. The installation of the profile should be carried out vertically, the distance between the elements will be a limit of 60 to 80 cm. The beam will cost less, but it will last much less during operation, because the material has the properties of warping and rotting. Before starting work, wooden materials are treated with an antiseptic.

Even if you have to work with a frame house, you still need to install a crate. It will allow you to create additional air space between the panel and the walls. This will eliminate the accumulation of moisture, and an additional air pocket will save heat indoors. Among other things, communications can be hidden in the hollow space.

Installation of imitation timber involves the use of waterproofing, which will protect the insulation. If you have to work with a wooden or frame house, then fixing the material will be more convenient with self-tapping screws. The crate is attached to the surfaces of brick and aerated concrete with dowels or self-tapping screws.

Wall preparation

Before starting work, it is important to make sure that the walls are sufficiently even. They are pre-coated with plaster or sheathed with sheet materials. The walls of a wooden house are usually not leveled, and when installing the crate, the elements must still be fixed taking into account the vertical. Waterproofing should be strengthened on aligned walls with a stapler; it is installed with an overlap ranging from 30 to 40 cm.

Lathing installation

If you are attracted by the appearance of an imitation of a bar, do-it-yourself installation of this material may well be carried out. The next step is to start attaching the crate. It is necessary to start these manipulations, moving from the corner of the house. The step of the crate should be chosen taking into account not only but also the size of the insulation.

To strengthen the elements of the lathing from the timber to the brick wall, you must first attach the material by drilling a through hole. Next, the dowel is driven in and the crate is screwed on. Much easier to work with. For them, self-tapping screws are usually used, selected taking into account the thickness of the timber. However, this parameter should not be less than 30 mm.

If you are going to carry out the installation of imitation timber, the instructions presented in the article should help you with this. The next step will be the laying of insulation, which is usually foam or mineral wool. For interiors, this step is not required. Thermal insulation is located between the profiles or beams, and is covered with a waterproofing film from above.

Installation of imitation timber

In order to extend the life of the imitation timber, it must be treated with an antiseptic. Fasten the panels, moving from the bottom up. The first panel must be level. About 15 cm should be retreated from the bottom of the house.

Installation can be done in one of several ways, the first involves the use of self-tapping screws, while the second involves the use of nails. There is another technology that is accompanied by the installation and fastening of clamps. Using self-tapping screws, you can install them at an angle of 45°. An alternative solution is to screw self-tapping screws into the top of the panel. Nails can be installed in the groove.

Fastening the clamps will be the easiest task, but this system will not be highly reliable. You can use this method only when the material is thinner than 21 mm. Using fasteners in the form of thin nails, you cannot guarantee that the panels will not loosen over time. That is why experts advise using self-tapping screws for the outer skin.

Installation of fasteners in the front surface of the elements provides for pre-drilling holes for self-tapping screws. Their diameter should be larger than the screw head. After installing the fasteners, a wooden cork is substituted, which is pre-treated with PVA glue. After that, the surface can be sanded.

The cost of installing imitation timber

If you are not sure that you can independently carry out the installation of imitation timber, you should know the price for these services. For 1 m 2 of finishing installation outside the building, you will have to pay 750 rubles. will be more expensive - 800 r. per square meter. If you have to finish the attic, then you will pay 950 rubles for the services of an external installation of an imitation. per square meter, while the work inside will cost a little cheaper - 900 rubles.

Installing imitation timber inside the house: preparing the walls

Installation of imitation timber inside also involves preparation. To do this, the surface of the walls is cleaned of dust and dirt. On the base, it is necessary to strengthen the vapor barrier like pergalin, then you can proceed to the installation of the crate. In this case, the distance between the elements will be from 50 to 70 cm. The crate is reinforced with dowels on concrete and brick walls, while self-tapping screws can be used when working with wooden walls. The beam is treated with antiseptics, and for wet rooms, a galvanized profile should be used.

Panel installation

For some, the cost of installing imitation timber is too high, at which point they decide to do the work themselves. The installation is carried out horizontally, and the method of fastening is similar to the decoration of the facade.

It is most convenient to use kleimers for this, but when working with the ceiling, manipulations will turn out to be more complicated. In this case, it is better to use self-tapping screws or small nails. They should be installed in a spike at an angle of 45 °. It is better not to use the front method for rooms, because it will be difficult to hide a small thickness behind hats, which will spoil the appearance of the walls.

Conclusion

Installation of imitation timber inside the house will also involve decorating the corners; for this, special internal and external elements are used. They are purchased with panels. But between the walls and the ceiling, baguettes should be installed. For the bottom of the room you need to purchase a plinth. Once you have finished with the finish, it can be sanded and varnished on the surface. In some cases, tinting is carried out, but this approach is “not for everybody”. It is best to install already painted panels on the ceiling, this will save time and effort.