Types and features of finished wooden floors. Installing a floor in a wooden house with your own hands: what to cover and how to do it

There is a huge variety of finished wood floors. In this article, we will try to consider the most popular of them, as well as indicate their features, advantages and disadvantages.

Plank floors

Plank floors are a set of floorboards that can be either edged or tongue and groove. The boards are laid on top of logs or prepared beams. Boards for plank floors must have a cross-section in the form of a rectangle, where the length of the short side is usually 21-60 mm, the length of the long side is 65x250 mm. The tongue and groove boards also have a groove and tongue (each on different sides), which greatly simplifies and speeds up floor assembly.

The main features of plank floors include their environmental component, which is also considered their main advantage. But among the disadvantages it is worth noting the need for regular staining, treatment with antiseptic compounds and, in general, labor-intensive care.

Over time, plank floors may begin to loosen or creak - this may be due to improper use, climatic conditions and other reasons. In order to eliminate this malfunction, the boards are re-laid. If gaps form between them, they are filled with thin slats, lubricated with adhesive. If the cracks are very small, you can get by with regular putty. If the floor begins to sag noticeably, it will be necessary to install additional joists or move the old ones to a closer distance to each other.

Natural wood floors are quite sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity. If it is too dry, it can dry out, become cracked, and if there is excess moisture, it can bend. Optimal operating conditions wooden floors indoors will require humidity at 45-60% and air temperature around +20 degrees Celsius. However, in the most general case, the quality of a wooden floor will directly depend on the quality and method of pre-treatment of the boards. But even a well-made wooden floor can withstand no more than 5 years without cosmetic repairs.

For prevention and protection, wooden floors are coated with an antiseptic, varnished or painted (on the outside). The antiseptic does an excellent job of killing the fungus that causes wood to rot, and varnishes and paints help maintain the external gloss of the floor and reduce friction.

As an alternative coating for a wooden floor, you can use the following techniques: aged surface (the floors are scraped until fine roughness is obtained, and then covered with varnish or special oil), tinting (painting with stain in several layers), oil coating, etc.

• the flooring of the boards is carried out along the very long wall rooms;
• if it is impossible to do without joints completely, they are made only above the joists;
• if the base is made of concrete, the thickness of the board must be at least 21 mm, if wooden logs- not less than 37 mm;
• During the purchasing process, pay attention to the curvature of the boards.

Parquet

Parquet is wood covering floor, which consists of a set of individual wooden planks. These planks can be made from almost any type of hard wood: birch, maple, oak, ash, wenge, etc.

The advantages of parquet include its naturalness, high antistatic characteristics, and an interesting decorative component. The disadvantages include the complexity of installation (requires the involvement of an experienced professional), the need for a number of additional work(sanding, applying varnish), difficulties in maintenance (in particular, cleaning), sensitivity to sudden changes in temperature and humidity.

There are several types of parquet. The first one is piece parquet. Each unit of such parquet looks like a plank with tongues and grooves that are used for adhesion. Thickness of planks hardwood wood is usually 15 mm, from coniferous species- 18 mm. The average length is 500 mm, width - 75 mm.

The service life of parquet is quite easy to calculate: it depends on the thickness of the wood, which can be removed during the sanding process. For planks made of coniferous wood, this thickness is 10 mm, for deciduous wood - 7 mm.

Using block parquet is quite convenient. For example, during repairs it is easy to replace only damaged planks and those adjacent to them; parquet can be laid out figuratively, forming a pattern. Such floors do not slip, do not attract dust, are very durable (service life is up to 100 years), and do not make noise when walking.

On sale you can find both varnished and regular planks. Oak, ash, maple, and merbau wood is used as material for the manufacture of block parquet. Builders recommend laying block parquet flooring in hallways and living rooms, although the homeowner can choose any other room.

There is also a classification of piece parquet depending on the method of cutting it:

• rustic: characterized by the presence of pronounced fiber patterns and the content of knots with a diameter of up to 10 mm;
• select: characterized by radial or tangential cutting, does not contain defects in the form of knots;
• radial: characterized exclusively by a radial cut, does not contain any defects;
• nature: characterized by cutting with in different directions fibers, the presence of point knots is allowed.

When purchasing block parquet, builders recommend paying attention to the packaging, the absence of cracks and other damage on the planks, as well as the absence of pronounced bends. The base must be prepared just as carefully - it must be perfectly level.

Parquet board

Parquet board is a multilayer structure that includes three layers. The first layer has a thickness of 0.5 to 6 mm and is made of valuable wood. The second (middle) layer has a thickness of 8 to 9 mm and is made of coniferous wood slats. The third (aka bottom) layer is only 1.5 mm thick; spruce or pine is used to make it. The last layer is placed strictly perpendicular to the middle layer.

The surface of the parquet board must be protected. It can be acrylic varnish or a mixture consisting of oil, wax and resins natural origin. The average length of one parquet board is 180-250 cm, width - 14-20 cm, thickness - 1.4-2.6 cm.

If we are talking about the smallest thickness of the parquet board (1.4 cm), it is recommended to lay the floor using the so-called “floating” method. In other cases, glue or mastic will do. Parquet floors can be sanded up to seven times inclusive.

The advantages of parquet boards include ease of installation (the tongue-and-groove system is used), ease of maintenance, resistance to changes in temperature and humidity, ease of replacing damaged areas, high impact resistance, low likelihood of chipping, and susceptibility to abrasives. With proper care, a parquet board can last a quarter of a century.

There are several types of parquet boards (classification according to GOST 862.3-86):

PD-1: performed on a single-layer base, which is assembled from rectangles and squares located at an angle of 90 degrees relative to each other;

PD-2: performed on a single-layer base assembled parallel to the direction of the board axis;

PD-3: performed on a two-layer base, the layers are assembled perpendicularly and glued together.

Also, parquet boards can vary depending on the number of strips: one-, two- and three-strip. In the first case, the top layer consists of one plank and a monolithic piece of valuable wood. In the second case, the top layer consists of two strips - elongated and shortened. In the third case, the top layer consists of a triple row of planks, and their length and placement can be chosen in any order. This parquet board can additionally be painted in different shades.

Panel parquet

Panel parquet is a set of panels (modules) square shape, which are laid on a plank base or a fiberboard base. It is a three-layer construction, where the lower two layers are located perpendicular to each other and serve to ensure maximum rigidity. Hard wood is used to make the lower layers, and valuable wood is used to make the top; its thickness does not exceed 4 mm.

Ready-made panels with a treated front surface and varnished are available for sale. This allows you to reduce the labor intensity of laying such a floor, as well as reduce material costs for installation. The dimensions of the boards are standard; they can have sides equal to 400, 500, 600 or 800 mm. The thickness can be 22, 25, 28, 32 and 40 mm. As for the sizes of parquet planks, their length usually ranges from 100 to 400 mm, width - from 20 to 50 mm, thickness - from 4 to 8 mm.

The peculiarities of panel parquet include the rather high complexity of installation and increased requirements for stable temperature and humidity conditions indoors. Among the advantages, we can note the possibility of laying such a floor over the old coating, the possibility of use in rooms with high operational load. Such floors can last you up to 70 years if all basic care requirements are met.

There are several ways to classify panel parquet. The most common of them are based on the type of base. According to this classification, parquet with a frame, slatted, wood-shaving and double-slatted base can be distinguished. Depending on the type of front covering, panel parquet can be covered with parquet strips, planed or peeled veneer, or plywood facing board. The choice of a specific option from those presented above is determined by the conditions for laying parquet and the requirements for its aesthetic characteristics.

Stacked parquet

Stacked (aka mosaic) parquet looks like a set of square modules, each of which consists of several planks (8-12 mm thick). The front surface is protected by a special film, which must be removed after laying the parquet. Inlaid parquet is one of the subtypes of panel parquet. For the manufacture of planks, only hard wood is used, and they are laid on a base made of wood or concrete. Mastic is used for fastening. On sale you can find mosaic parquet with module sizes of 400 and 600 mm on one side.

Stacked parquet is characterized by a fairly high labor intensity of installation, but you can get a very beautiful pattern that can decorate the interior of a living room or any other room.

There are two ways to attach inlaid parquet to the base: on a hard strip and on a soft strip. And the profile of the edges of individual planks can be oblique or rebated.

Pronto-parquet

Pronto-parquet is a multi-layer piece parquet made of natural wood. Each individual layer of it can be made from a different type of wood. For the middle layers, pine or ash are most often used, for the upper layers - oak, walnut, ash, cherry, etc. The layers are arranged perpendicular to each other, and within one layer the planks are attached thanks to a system of tongues and grooves.

The thickness of pronto parquet is usually 10-14 mm, where the top layer occupies only 4 mm. For protective purposes, such parquet is covered with several (usually 7-8) layers of varnish. It goes on sale already sanded and coated with one layer of varnish in order to extend its service life, although you can also find parquet without a varnish coating.

Pronto-parquet is characterized by a smooth, even surface, high strength, durability, resistance to temperature and humidity changes, and deformation. It can be used even in those rooms where it will be subject to serious operating loads. However, such parquet is quite expensive and involves some difficulties in installation; it requires a carefully prepared base (ideally, a level one). The thermal conductivity and sound insulation characteristics of the parquet flooring will directly depend on the materials used.

Cork covering

Cork covering for finished floors enjoys well-deserved popularity due to its naturalness, because it is made from the bark of the cork tree. It is a multi-layer structure made by pressing.

Cork is a natural and environmentally friendly material with high decorative characteristics, has good thermal insulation properties, absorbs sounds, does not attract dust, does not cause allergies, is easy to care for, has easily expressed therapeutic effects (recommended as coverings in homes for people with musculoskeletal problems), and is easy to install.

The cork coating is waterproof, has bactericidal properties, wears off slightly over time, does not slip, and is immune to the effects of chemically active materials. Such a coating with correct installation and operation can last more than a century.

According to the installation method, cork coverings are adhesive and floating. The former are glued directly to the base, and the latter are fastened to each other with another system of grooves, and only then laid on the base without additional fastening.

All cork coverings have a top protective layer, an inner layer of pressed cork, a fiberboard base and a cork backing. The density of fiberboard may vary. As for the protective layer, it may not have external treatment; it can be coated with varnish, oil, wax, polyvinyl film or veneer made from valuable wood.

Builders recommend storing cork flooring in a dry place in its original packaging, avoiding the use of brushes with metal bristles when cleaning, and using carpets that reverse side covered with latex or rubber.

Chipboard floors

Chipboard (chipboard) floors are a type of flooring made from wood boards. Such a board is a composite material pressed from chips and resin (urea or phenol-formaldehyde). At the same time mass fraction chips average 6-18%.

Chipboard is rarely used when constructing a finished floor, with the exception of one of its varieties - PTP-3. Such slabs are available in sizes 600x2400 mm or 1200x2400 mm. The thickness of one slab can be 8, 10, 16, 18, 25 or 28 mm.

Chipboards are easy to assemble, do not require the use of special tools during installation, are quite short-lived (service life - up to 5 years), and are easily deformed under mechanical stress, as well as when saturated with moisture.

Chipboards for finished floors are available with several types of surface: plywood, laminated and plain (both sanded and unsanded). In the first case, the coating is veneer, in the second - melamine film, and in the third protective coating absent.

Fiberboard floors

Fiberboard (fiberboard) floors are another type of wood-based flooring. They are sheet material obtained by hot pressing of wood fibers (including paper, plant stems, etc.). Paraffin (to increase water-resistant characteristics) and binders (to increase strength) can be used as additives. The length of one such slab can be 1.2, 1.6 or 3.6 m, width - 1.2, 1.6, 1.8 m, thickness - from 2.5 to 6 mm.

Finished fiberboard floors are quite easy to process, durable, and can be additionally leveled with a self-leveling compound. The following characteristics are considered negative: fiberboard quickly absorbs moisture from the environment, is easily deformed, easily catches fire, and fungus and mold can develop on them.

Fibreboards can vary in density: they are super-hard, hard, semi-hard and soft.

Builders recommend using them in rooms with consistently low humidity, very carefully and with Not a large number Wash them with water, protect them from exposure to active chemicals, glue soft pads under furniture legs, and do not walk on the floor in stiletto heels.

In this article we will look at what types of finished wooden floors there are. Plank floors, parquet, chipboard and fiberboard floors, and cork flooring will be discussed in detail. In each point we will reveal the main pros and cons of these types of wooden floors, and also pay attention to the points in laying and caring for each type of wooden floor. In the parquet section we also present types of parquet such as: pronto-parquet, parquet board, piece parquet, inlaid parquet and panel parquet.

Plank floors

Plank floor

Plank floors are floorboards (edged or tongue-and-groove) that are laid on beams or joists. A floorboard is lumber with a rectangular cross-section. Dry boards with a thickness of 21-60 mm and a width of 65-250 mm are used as flooring. Standard lengths are from 2 to 6 meters. The tongue and groove floorboard must be planed on four sides. The tongue-and-groove board has a profile on each of the long edges: on one there is a groove, on the other there is a ridge. This makes the floor easier to assemble and adjacent boards fit together without gaps. If it is not possible to use tongue-and-groove boards, then edged ones are used. When assembled, each edged board should fit tightly against the adjacent one.

Features of plank floors

• The material of the plank floor is natural, environmentally friendly, which is its advantage.
• The disadvantages include the need for painting and antiseptic treatment, as this takes time and requires additional investment.
• Depending on the quality of the wood, climate and other operating conditions, after a certain period of time, plank floors may begin to creak and lag behind the joists.

To correct this defect, the boards are removed and then laid back close to each other. If cracks form due to the drying of the boards, then thin hewn slats are driven into them, pre-lubricated with glue (casein or wood glue). Small cracks are sealed with putty. If the boards begin to sag underfoot, re-lay the floors and install new logs, placing them closer to each other .

• Wooden floors respond to changes in temperature and humidity levels in the room. If the air humidity is insufficient, the wood will dry out (dry out and crack), if it is excessive, it will bend. The optimal humidity in a room with a wooden floor should be 45-60%, temperature - approximately +20° C.

To solve the problem of edged boards drying out, chamfers are made (a chamfer is the edge of a board beveled at an angle of 45°). Then, when laying the floor, there will be a groove between the boards, which visually separates one board from the other; when they dry out and move apart slightly, this will no longer be very noticeable.

• The characteristics of plank floors depend on the wood from which they are made, as well as on the protective coatings.
• On average, the service life of a wooden floor without repair is 4-6 years.

Protective coatings for wooden plank floors:

In order for plank floors to serve for a long time, it is necessary:

• antisepticize the boards from the reverse (inner) side;
• paint them or varnish them on the outside.

Antiseptic. Antiseptic treatment is carried out to protect the boards from putrefactive fungus. Used for processing boards water-soluble antiseptics: sodium fluoride, ammonium silicofluoride or ammonium fluorosilicate (they are diluted in water in percentage specified in the instructions, then cover the boards using a brush or spray). For insects that destroy wood, an antiseptic paste made from sodium fluoride and sodium sulfate is used. These components are diluted in water in a ratio of 5:1:2.

Painting. Varnishing. Painting and varnishing are done on the outside of the board. Varnish and paint protect wood floors from damage and abrasion. From paints, oil paints are used for floors; from varnishes, single-component (that is, they are based on one component), polyurethane and acrylatex, diluted with water, are chosen. They are easy to apply, there is almost no smell, and they dry quickly. Polyurethane varnish is usually applied in two layers.

Note. Nitrovarnishes are unsafe for human health and are undesirable for use in a residential building.

Painting rules:

• First you need to clean the floor from dust and debris.
• Water-dispersed paint is applied with a brush in the direction along the boards.
• To avoid drips, paint each board separately, without touching the adjacent one.
• You can also use a sprayer for painting.
• When the floor dries, the color becomes lighter, and the floor receives a rich shade after applying a transparent polyurethane varnish over the paint.
• Varnish, like paint, is applied along the boards.
• If you apply a second coat of varnish, do it after a minimum of 2 hours and a maximum of 48 hours.
• If you only want to varnish your plank floor, it is advisable that the planks be made from wood with a beautiful natural grain pattern, like oak and mahogany.

Alternative types of wooden plank floor coverings:

"Aged floor." The board is scraped, causing roughness to form on the surface of the wood. It is then coated with varnish or floor oil.

Tinting. Tinting is the painting of floor boards with stains or oils in different colors. This coating gives the wood a certain color while leaving the wood grain visible.

Oil coating. Floor oils contain natural plant oils and waxes. The oil penetrates the wood to a depth of about 2 mm, prevents rotting, disinfects, and protects against fungus. Oil coating is suitable for allergy sufferers. An oiled floor will look like it is made of exotic wood - a wide oak board is suitable for this purpose.

• In narrow rooms, plank floors are laid along the length of the room.
• If there are no boards of the required length, then they are joined, and the joint should be on the logs.
• When laying the floor on concrete base boards with a thickness of 21 mm or more are used. If the floor is laid on wooden logs, then - no less than 37 mm.
• When purchasing boards, check them for curvature by laying them on a flat surface with their planes and edges.

Parquet

Parquet- wooden flooring consisting of individual planks of hardwood. The types of wood used to make parquet include birch, maple, oak, beech, ash, merbay, wenge, and bamboo.

Parquet features:

Advantages:

• natural materials are used;
• the coating is antistatic (does not collect dust);
• when laying parquet, the aesthetic value of the entire room increases;
• good heat insulator.

Flaws:

• parquet is difficult to install;
• sometimes (depending on the type) required additional processing surfaces (grinding and varnishing);
• parquet is difficult to clean;
• sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity in the apartment;

Thermal conductivity, sound insulation, service life and other characteristics of parquet are determined and depend on the constituent materials of the parquet construction.

types of parquet. a, b - block parquet strips; c - parquet boards and the order of laying the boards; g - type-setting parquet; d - parquet boards.

Types of parquet and their features

Block parquet

It is a set of strips with tongues and grooves for fastening. The planks are made of solid valuable wood. Dimensions of planks: thickness 15-22 mm, length - up to 500 mm, and width - up to 75 mm. Usually the length is a multiple of the width (for example, if the width of the strip is 70 mm, then its length will be 280, 350, 420 mm). The thickness of the planks is 15 mm for hardwood, 18 mm for coniferous wood.

There is also a strip wear size - it indicates how much sanding the panel will take - this is the top layer of the strip from the face to the top of the tongue or groove. Wear and tear determines the lifespan of the parquet flooring. The thickness of the wear layer of hardwood planks is 7 mm, coniferous – 10 mm.

Features of block parquet:

• possibility of replacing the strips during repairs;
• possibility of laying a variety of patterns - Christmas tree, deck, wicker, square, etc.;
• block parquet floors are practically non-slippery;
• usually placed in the hallway or living room;
• produced as with varnish coating, and without;
• durability (up to 100 years) depends on the type of wood and operating conditions;
• reacts to high humidity (lasts a long time at humidity up to 30%);
• piece parquet is attached to a screed (moisture-resistant plywood or subfloor) and does not create noise effects when walking.

Materials for block parquet: oak, ash, maple, merbau

Types of piece parquet depending on the type of cut:

Rustic. In panel cuts, there are different cuts and grain patterns. Knots up to 10 mm in size are acceptable.

Select. Panels are created by radial and tangential cutting. Defects, knots, sapwood are not allowed.

Radial. Panels with one radial cut. Defects, knots, sapwood are not allowed.

Nature. When cutting panels, different directions of wood fibers are allowed. Dotted knots of the eyes are acceptable.

• The parquet must be sealed in thick plastic film and packed in a rigid box.
• There should be no dark burn marks on the surfaces of the planks - front, back and end.
• There should be no cracks on the planks.

Also, please note that when laying pre-varnished parquet, there are requirements for the horizontality of the base on which it will be laid. The surface of the base must be perfectly flat.

Parquet board

The parquet board is a structure of three layers:

Top layer Parquet boards are made from valuable tree species. Layer thickness - 0.5-6 mm.

Middle layer made from perpendicularly laid slats of coniferous wood (pine or spruce). Thickness - 8-9 mm.

Bottom layer homogeneous - made of pine and spruce, it is placed perpendicular to the previous layer. Thickness - 1.5 mm.

Apply on top of the parquet protective coating: varnish (acrylic varnishes without formaldehyde are used) or a mixture of oil, wax and natural resins.

Average sizes of parquet boards:

• length - 180-250 cm;
• width -14-20 cm;
• thickness -1.4-2.6 cm.

Features of parquet boards:

• easy to install, has locking system tongue-and-groove connections;
• cannot be scraped (only sanded), since a 4 mm layer is removed with the very first cycle;
• Damaged parquet must only be replaced;
• ease of care;
• resistance to changes in humidity and temperature in the room - due to three glued layers, one perpendicular to the other;
• Due to several glued layers, impact resistance is increased. Impact resistance parameters are determined by the thickness of the layers and the material from which they are made. This information should be included in the description specific species boards upon purchase;
• resistance to chipping and abrasives;
• service life - from 10 to 25 years - depends on the thickness of the board and material;
• the characteristics of thermal conductivity and sound insulation are based on the characteristics of the materials used in the design.

Types of parquet boards:

Based on (according to GOST 862.3-86) :

PD-1 - It is made on a single-layer slatted base, which is assembled into rectangles and squares located perpendicular to each other. The longitudinal edges of the board are covered with slats.

PD-2- is done on a single-layer slatted base, assembled in the longitudinal direction of the axis of the board.

PD-3- made on a two-layer slatted base. Two layers (slat and veneer or two slats) are assembled perpendicularly and glued together.

By number of planks:

• Single lane parquet board. The top layer is made from one plank from a single piece of valuable wood.
• Two-way parquet board. The top layer consists of two strips of planks. Extended slats - indoors large areas, shortened - for small and medium-sized rooms.
• Three-lane parquet board. The top layer is made of a triple row of planks. Their length is different, and their location can be arbitrary. Made in different color combinations.

Panel parquet

Panel parquet

Panel parquet consists of square module boards laid on a base made of boards or fibreboards. Panel parquet is a structure of 3 layers. The two bottom layers provide a rigid base for the parquet. They consist of planks of coniferous wood (usually pine), located perpendicular to each other. The top layer is made from dies of valuable wood of high hardness, its thickness is approximately 4 mm.

Panel parquet is produced with a front surface that is covered with parquet varnish - this reduces the labor intensity of the flooring and the cost of the floor. Dimensions of panel parquet modules: 400x400 mm, 500x500 mm, 600x600mm, 800x800 mm. Thickness: 22, 25, 28, 32, 40 mm. The dimensions of the parquet planks are thickness 4-8 mm, length - 100-400 mm, width - 20-50 mm.

Features of panel parquet:

• difficulty of installation: if you do not maintain a right angle during installation, cracks will form;
• the small thickness of the boards allows you to lay parquet during repairs without removing the old floors;
• suitable for indoor use public use with high load;
• the temperature and humidity conditions of the premises must be stable;
• retains its geometric shape and lasts up to 60-75 years at a constant temperature, with humidity up to 40%;
• The characteristics of thermal conductivity and sound insulation depend on the characteristics of the materials used in the construction of panel parquet.

Types of panel parquet

By type of base:

1. Parquet with frame base. The base frames are made in the form of a strap with joints in the corners using glue and spikes.
2. Parquet on a slatted base. The base is lined with peeled veneer on both sides.
3. Parquet with chipboard base. The board is lined with peeled veneer on both sides (the base can also be made of cement-bonded particle board).
4. Parquet with 2 slats base. The base slats are glued together in a mutually perpendicular direction.

By type of face covering :

1. Covered with parquet planks;
2. Covered with square veneer (planed or peeled);
3. Covered with plywood facing board.

The characteristics are similar for all these types of panel parquet. The choice depends on the installation conditions and the requirements for the appearance of the coating.

Stacked parquet

Stacked parquet

Stacked parquet (mosaic) is a square-shaped module consisting of planks 8-12 mm thick. Protective paper is glued to the front of the modules, which is removed after laying the covering on the floor. Stacked parquet is a type of panel parquet. The planks are made from hardwood. This parquet is laid on a wooden or concrete base. It is glued to mastic. Module sizes: from 400x400 mm to 600x600 mm.

Features of inlaid parquet:

• labor-intensive to install;
• used in living rooms, dining rooms;
• decorates the interior beautiful design on the floor.

According to the method of attachment to the base and edge profile inlaid parquet can be:

1. With fastening "on a solid rail". The planks that make up the module have grooves on one long and one short side, and ridges on the other two sides. The parquet is laid by nailing it down. Rarely used due to the complexity of manufacturing.
2. With fastening "on a soft rail". The module strips have grooves on all four sides. This type is the most common.
3. Module strip with oblique edge.
4. Rebated plank. On all sides of this parquet there are oblique folds that serve to secure the parquet with mastic. Builders believe that such parquet is the most durable and can last up to 40 years.

• As protection, the front side of the parquet is coated with a protective varnish;
• WITH back side To increase sound insulation, glue a layer of sound-absorbing material - rubber or foam.

Pronto-parquet

Pronto parquet is a multilayer parquet: the front layer is made of hard wood (1); middle layer - pine plate (2); base - made of spruce veneer (3).

Pronto-parquet is a multi-layer piece parquet made of natural wood. The layers of this type of parquet are made from different breeds trees: the middle layers are made from pine, ash, acacia, etc. The upper layers are made from: oak, walnut, mahogany, ash, beech, maple, cherry, ebony. Each layer is located crosswise with respect to the neighboring one. Pronto parquet uses tongues and grooves. The total thickness is 10-14mm, the thickness of the top layer is about 4mm. The number of layers of protective varnish is 7-8. The wood is sanded and then coated with a layer of varnish in the factory, which extends the life of the parquet and increases its strength.

Features of pronto parquet:

• convenient styling;
• the surface is absolutely smooth;
• the process of preparing parquet elements takes about 7 months, and this ensures its high performance;
• can be used in rooms with high traffic intensity;
• has a high cost;
• labor-intensive installation process;
• the base under the parquet must be perfectly level;
• the greatest strength among all types of parquet;
• resistant to changes in temperature and humidity - can be used in rooms with humidity above 40%;
• resistant to deformation;
• The characteristics of thermal conductivity and sound insulation depend on the characteristics of the materials used in the construction of the parquet flooring.

Types of pronto-parquet. Pronto-parquet is made with or without a varnished coating (in this case, the parquet is coated with varnish after installation).

Cork flooring

Cork floor

Cork flooring - natural material from the bark of a cork tree. Coverings made from natural cork are of a multi-layer construction. They are made using pressed - agglomerated - traffic jams

Features of cork coverings:

• environmentally friendly material;
• the structure consists of particles containing inside their structure a gas similar in composition to air. The particles are separated from each other by an elastic, waterproof shell. Thanks to this structure, cork acts as a thermal insulator, sound absorber and shock absorber;
• cork is antistatic, i.e. does not attract dust;
• the cork is hypoallergenic;
• Both dry and wet cleaning of the cork surface is possible;
• has a healing effect - due to its elasticity it is recommended as flooring for people with musculoskeletal diseases;
• The job of laying the cork is considered quite simple.

Characteristics of cork coating:

• Waterproof.
• No deformation of the coating surface when exposed to water.
• Has bactericidal properties.
• Abrasion resistant.
• No slipping (creates friction when walking).
• Chemical resistance.
• Fire safety - G1 (non-flammable material).
• Service life - up to 100 years.
• Sound insulation coefficient - from 16 dB.
• Thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.031 W/m*K.

Types of cork coverings

By installation method :

• Adhesive. They are intended, as their name suggests, for gluing over the entire area of ​​the tile to the base. “Adhesive” coatings are produced in the form of tiles with dimensions: 300x300, 450x150, 600x300, 450x450 mm, thickness 4 mm.
• Floating. Such panels are not glued to the base and have grooves and ridges on the edges to connect to each other (similar to a parquet board or laminate). "Floating" floors are panels measuring about 900x185 mm, 4 mm thick.

Floating floors have a panel joining system:

Cork layers

Adhesive system for joining panels: The panels are glued together using a tongue-and-groove joint.
Glueless docking system: the coverings are equipped with special profiled ridges and grooves - locks connecting the panels to each other. The floor can be easily disassembled if necessary. You can walk on it immediately after installation.

Typically, all cork coatings have a top protective layer. Unlike adhesive coatings, “floating” cork coverings have additional layers:

• top protective layer;
• underneath is an inner layer of pressed cork;
• fiberboard base;
• A cork backing is glued to it on the back side.

The base made of fibreboards comes in different densities:

• A high-density board (density greater than 850 kg/m3) is an analogue of the Russian fiberboard - HDF (high density fiberboard);
• Medium density board (density - 650-850 kg/m 3) - MDF (middle density fiberboard).

The additional base layer acts as the supporting base of the cork covering.

By type of outer protective layer:

• No external processing. The most environmentally friendly type of cork.
• Varnish coating. The surface is varnished, it becomes shiny. The varnish protects the floor from dirt. Prevents water and dust from entering pores.
• Oil and wax coating. The oil penetrates the pores of the material, but the properties of the cork do not change. A floor covered with oil will become darker; wax will make it shiny and glossy. Wax will protect the floor from dirt more than oil. Oil protects against water penetration into the pores of the material.
• Covered with polyvinyl film. Dust does not stick to the film; dirt can be easily removed from it.
• Veneer coating of valuable wood species. This event is more of an aesthetic nature, but at the same time it also has a protective function, protecting expensive cork material from gross mechanical damage - frequent moving of furniture, from cutting and stabbing objects, from the claws of pets, etc. This type of coverage is very expensive.

• the material must be stored in a dry place;
• panels must be in solid plastic packaging;
• stack packs with cork panels one on top of the other horizontally, face up (if the packs are placed vertically, the panels will be deformed and the ends may be damaged);
• When cleaning, do not use metal brushes;
• You should stick pieces of felt on the legs of tables and chairs (rubber leaves stains);
• You cannot use carpets that have a latex or rubberized backing on the back.

Wood floors

This type of flooring rarely serves as a finished floor due to its characteristics.

There are two types of wood board floors: chipboard and fiberboard.

Chipboard floor

Chipboards- composite compressed sheet material from mixed dry wood shavings with urea or phenol-formaldehyde resin, which makes up 6-18% by weight of the shavings.

Chipboard slabs rarely serve as a finished floor. Only one type of particle board is suitable for flooring - PTP-3, GOST 10632-70. Slab dimensions: 600 x 2400 mm, 1200 x 2400 mm. Thicknesses: 8, 10, 16, 18, 25, 28 mm.

Features of particle boards (chipboards) :

• quick and easy assembly;
• special tools are not needed, since to process the slabs it is enough to have ordinary carpentry tools;
• deform when saturated with moisture and further drying;
• not durable - lasts up to 5 years;
• are prone to mechanical damage when walking on sharp heels, rearranging furniture, etc.

Main characteristics of chipboard:

• Fire resistance: when flame retardants are introduced into the chipboard composition - flammability G1 (not produced in Russia);
• Formaldehyde emission class. Shows the permissible content of free formaldehyde in 100 grams of absolutely dry board (according to GOST 10632-89). Plates come in two emission classes: E1 (up to 10 mg), E2 (10-30 mg).
• Sound insulation coefficient - up to 29 dB.
• Thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.2 W/(m K).

Types of chipboard:

• Veneer (veneered). Veneer thickness 0.6 mm. Veneering improves its characteristics - increases the effect of thermal insulation, reduces the tendency to mechanical damage, improves appearance coverings.
• Laminated. Lamination is carried out with melamine film at high blood pressure and temperature. This makes the boards more resistant to moisture and damage.
• Simple (polished and unpolished). Does not have a protective coating.

Fiberboard floor

Fiberboards is a sheet material created through a hot pressing process. The boards are based on wood fibers intertwined and formed into a “carpet” (waste from woodworking processes, paper, plant stems, etc.). To increase water resistance, paraffin is added, and for strengthening, binding additives are added (T marking means that phenol-formaldehyde resins are used). Fibreboards are available in the form of square or rectangular sheets. Thickness - from 2.5 to 6 mm. For flooring, it is highly recommended to use fiberboard sheets with a thickness of 5-6 mm. According to the standard, the length is 1.2, 1.6, 2 and 3.6 m, width is 1.2, 1.6, 1.8 m.

Features of fiberboard coatings:

• can be processed well (sawed, ends can be trimmed);
• how large sizes the sheets used, the stronger the coating;
• to create perfect flat surface you can pre-fill the floor with a self-leveling mixture;
• fiberboard covering painted alkyd enamel for external work;
• moisture absorption up to 18% in 24 hours;
• when humidity changes, they change in size, the slab becomes deformed, and fungus and mold may appear;
• ignite faster than ordinary wood. (To increase strength, durability and fire resistance, protection against fungus, the following are added to the composition: water emulsions of synthetic resins, emulsions of rosin, bitumen, paraffin, antiseptics and fire retardants, asbestos, alumina, etc.);
• density - 941-1800 kg/m2;
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.038 ÷ 0.044 W/(mK);
• sound absorption - 21 dB

Fibreboard slabs are marked depending on density:

• superhard - "ST" - density not less than 950 kg/m3.
• hard - "T" - they are used for flooring, density not less than 850 kg/m 3;
• semi-solid - "PT" - normally solid, density 400 - 800 kg/m 3;
• soft - "M" - do not use as an external coating. Density - no more than 350 kg/m3.

• It is necessary to maintain indoor air humidity of approximately 40%, temperature - 20-22°C;
• If the air humidity in the room is higher than specified, then in the autumn-winter period it is not recommended to leave the windows open for more than 5-10 minutes;
• It is not recommended to wash the floor with large amounts of water. It is advisable not to use detergents. It is better to clean the floor daily with a vacuum cleaner or a very well wrung-out, slightly damp cloth (if there is a protective coating);
• It is necessary to protect the floor from chemicals: solvents, oils, acids;
• When installing furniture, protect the coating from scratches and chips. It is advisable to install furniture legs on soft pads;
• Do not walk on the surface in shoes with padded heels.

The best floor in wooden house from similar material. The tree is environmentally friendly, has beautiful view and at correct installation The coating will last quite a long time. Such floors always remain warm, give the interior comfort, coziness and fit perfectly with any design. Market building materials offers a lot of possibilities for designing flooring in the house and attic. But today there are two priority ways to build a floor in a wooden house: on the ground and using logs, which are often installed on stilts.

Thus, the options for arranging floors come down to two:

• Concrete;
• Wooden.

The most common floors are made of wood, but we will look at all types of subfloors.

Concrete floor

Pouring a concrete floor does not require the services of professionals. It is enough to have a special level for leveling horizontal surface. Subsequently, any floor covering is laid on the concrete. After watching the video and photos in this material, you can begin work, saving not only on calling a specialist, but also on installation costs. A concrete floor is much more economical than a wooden or stilt floor. In addition, all concreting processes take less time than laying and arranging a wooden floor. Concrete floors are practically not used for the attic, as they increase the weight of the building.

To prevent cracking of concrete, it is necessary to add a special plating agent to the solution. chemical composition. This will allow the concrete substance to retain its plasticity and compact it.

Important! The heavy weight of the concrete floor increases the load on the foundation. Therefore, when calculating options at the design stage, it is necessary to clearly determine what floors will be in your new home.

Pouring concrete screed has several options:

1. Ground. The method requires determining the floor level by tying a cord to pegs. Afterwards the gravel layer is backfilled, then sand and thoroughly compacted. The pegs are removed and a layer of waterproofing material (thick polyethylene, roofing felt) is laid. Moreover, the coating must be larger in area than the compacted soil. After laying the waterproofing, heat and sound insulation is done using mineral wool, sheets of foam plastic or expanded clay backfill of the middle fraction. Which material is better is up to you to choose – it all depends on the financial component and the strength of the foundation. The finished heated floor is installed at this stage. After watching the video, you can do everything yourself: lay it on top of a heat-insulating layer reinforcing mesh, then install the underfloor heating system on the underfloor heating system and finish with the coating. The advantages of a concrete floor are its varied finishes: sheathing with linoleum, laying parquet, tiles.
2. Concrete. Arrangement of concrete floor on logs. The process requires more time and effort. To begin with, the place where the floor is to be arranged needs to be deepened to half a meter, a layer of crushed stone and sand must be filled in and compacted with a stream of water. Moreover, the bulk layer must be at least 30 cm. Piles (support columns) can be made of brick, wood or concrete (the most reliable). First, piles are installed along the entire perimeter of the floor, and then inside the building. The distance between the columns is set to 0.7-1 m. Afterwards, a waterproofing layer of roofing felt is laid on the piles, then beams are attached on top and only then logs.

Important! The logs must be made of very quality wood, otherwise the heavy weight of the floor will push through the entire structure. To set the concrete, it is necessary to cover the floors with film and leave for about 7 days, after which the film is removed and the concrete is allowed to “ripen” for 21 days.

How to make concrete floors is clear. But if your home is supposed to have not one, but two or three levels, concrete floors between floors may become impractical precisely because of their weight.

Wooden floors

When choosing a wooden floor (quality), buyers give preference to a material that has the highest standards and characteristics:

• strength;
• practicality;
• environmental friendliness;
• beauty;
• natural warmth;
• hygroscopicity;
• wide range of uses.

The tree is perfect for the attic and will fit comfortably between floors. You can cover any small piece of flooring with dies and, in general, solve any design issues. But you should understand that the complexity of installation affects the price indicator - the cost of wooden floors is much higher than concrete. To impart durability and strength, the tree is treated with various compounds that protect against rotting, damage by bark beetles, and is also given fire-resistant properties. This is especially true for the external attic.

Important! High level humidity in the room is a direct threat to wood, the floors will swell. Therefore, the moisture content of the material should be no more than 15-18%.

Arranging a wooden floor structure

Floors of this type also consist of several layers:

• draft;
• hydro-, heat-, sound-insulating materials;
• finishing floor;
• coating.

A heated floor system often used in homes is installed between the subfloor and the finished floor. Moreover, the main types of structures are equipped with logs. Advantages:

1. different types of foundations: concrete or soil;
2. the ability to remove all communications into the space under the floor;
3. floor leveling speed.

Remember that such a design is completely inappropriate in rooms with low ceilings. Due to the arrangement of logs, the floors rise by 15-18 cm, forming a distance between the ground and the flooring. The installation of the logs is carried out parallel to the window opening, and the fastening depends on the base. The logs are attached to the concrete floor using glue and dowels, and self-tapping screws are used for wooden bases. It is not recommended to hammer the joists with nails: rust will lift and deform the caps. And here are a few more rules:

• Between the joists you need to fill the space with insulation and vapor barrier materials;
• The boards are laid perpendicular to the joists;
• If the length of the board is not enough, the joints are made on the block;
• It is mandatory to attach each board to the joists;
• The first row of boards should be laid at a distance of 13-15 mm from the wall, attic rooms 20 cm;
• The slot joints between walls and boards are decorated with plinths;
• Decorating an attic with wood has the same rules as arranging the floor in the house itself.

Types of wood floors

Depending on the selected raw materials, there are several types of floors that are suitable for main rooms, installation between floors and in attics:

• array;
• laminated wood;
• parquet;
• laminate floors.

Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. In particular, double or triple the weight of an array, compared to a laminate, is contraindicated for buildings with a fragile foundation, and a fragile laminate will deteriorate in rooms with high humidity.

But how and what is the best way to sheathe the floors, how exactly to make the floor in a wooden house is up to you to decide. After looking at the photos and videos, you can choose the material for the main rooms and attic. And for this it is important to understand the main characteristics of each selected floor covering.

Board and laminated wood

The floorboard is made from solid wood. Dimensions 0.9-6 m long by 1.8-6 cm thick. One side of the element is equipped with a groove, and the other with a ridge. Installation is carried out using a hammer. For the material used the best varieties hardwood: pecan, oak, larch. You should not buy coniferous species due to their rapid wear.

Low thermal conductivity and high strength qualities have determined the popularity of this material, but the price of the floors is quite high. It should be remembered that the outer side of the board must be varnished to extend its service life, and the array is often impregnated with oil, which protects the floors from rotting and fungi.

Glued laminated wood is a double layer of dies glued flat. Coniferous wood is used. Main qualities: strength, low thermal conductivity, resistance to deformation and aesthetics. Price category high, even compared to the array. But floors covered with laminated wood can withstand large temperature fluctuations, which is why they are recommended for flooring in attics.

Parquet, laminate

After looking at the photo, owners often give preference to parquet as the most convenient product in terms of price/quality ratio. Made from natural wood, parquet fits perfectly between floors, fits into any room, and can also be of various color shades. There are different types of parquet, piece parquet, artistic parquet, modular parquet and parquet board. View the material in the photos offered by manufacturers, you can choose the type and price. Moreover, the cost of parquet directly depends on the complexity of the pattern, the thickness of the block and the type of wood.

Laminate is an imitation of wood flooring. For many reasons, laminate is one of the most popular floor covering products. Thanks to the variety of varieties, laminate can be matched to any decor; its low weight allows you to lay floors between floors, in attics, or to cover a bathroom or veranda. When choosing a laminate, you need to remember the class assigned to the product: indicator of small, medium, heavy loads.

Subfloors have several types depending on their purpose and installation method. First, you should consider their features and differences, and then talk in detail about the construction method. As always, we will use an example to consider the most complex option; if it becomes clear, then it will be much easier to make simpler subfloors.

1. According to the lags. Most often used as a base for finishing floor coverings with low load-bearing properties: laminate floors, linoleum, parquet boards or piece parquet. In these cases, subfloors absorb loads and distribute them evenly over the floor area. Sometimes such floors are called the base; this name is used by inexperienced builders, but has the right to life.
2. Under the logs. At the bottom of the logs, cranial bars are fixed; they serve as the basis for fastening the subfloor, insulation, and vapor and waterproofing.
3. Along load-bearing beams. In our opinion, this is the most successful option, but it needs to be thought through at the design stage wooden house. Why do we think this?

   The distance between the floor beams is ≈ 1–1.2 meters, specific values ​​and thickness values ​​are calculated depending on the load. Then logs are placed on the floor beams with a distance of 40–60 cm. Why do double work, it is much more expedient to install the floor beams a little more often, while reducing their size. These same beams will serve as joists. What will happen as a result? Significant savings in materials.

   If you calculate the amount of timber for beams and joists in the traditional construction option, then the second option makes it possible to achieve savings of at least 40%. At modern prices to natural quality ones (and for these works only the highest quality lumber is used high quality) in monetary transfers, the savings amount to significant amounts. Another undoubted advantage is the increase in the height of the interior premises; with the height of the logs within ten centimeters, this is a noticeable increase.

Any low-quality materials can be used for the subfloor, except if it serves as the basis for installing finishing floor coverings. These can be either pieces of boards, OSB sheets, plywood or chipboard, or unedged boards. The thickness of the materials does not matter; boards or slabs with a thickness of one to three centimeters can be used on one floor. Thermal insulating materials will be laid on it; for them, minor differences in the height of the base are not critical. Of course, unedged boards must be sanded; wood pests breed under the bark.

Second important point for all subfloors – protection from the negative effects of moisture. Currently, there are quite effective antiseptics available, which need to be used to soak the boards at least twice.

Important. Before impregnation, the lumber must be dried. The lower the relative humidity, the more antiseptics they absorb, the more reliable the protection.

No antiseptic - no problem. Just sand the boards, the effect will be exactly the same. Treat the ends of the subfloor boards with particular care. Inattention to the ends is one of the main mistakes of inexperienced builders. They first lay the cut boards on the supporting elements, and then use a brush to treat two surfaces, forgetting about the ends. The ends of the wood absorb the most large number moisture, in this place all the capillaries of the wood are open.

And one last thing. Keep in mind that no antiseptics will help if the underground of a wooden house does not have effective natural ventilation. The subfloor will sooner or later lose its original properties. You will have to change not only it, but also the entire floor covering.

If you are afraid of rodents entering through the vents, place metal grilles on them. If it seems to you that in winter the floors in the rooms on the first floor are very cold due to the vents (and this may be the case), then close them during the cold period. But be sure to open all the vents as it gets warmer. Ventilation, by the way, is a prerequisite for the durability of the lower crowns of a log house.

Practical advice. Use smoke or a lighter to check the effectiveness of the products. Bring an open flame to the holes and observe how and with what force the flame reacts to air currents. Poor air movement - take immediate action to increase ventilation efficiency.

How to make a subfloor in a wooden house

Let's consider one of the most difficult options - installing subfloors on joists without floor beams. This flooring is often found in small rooms of a private house or in cases of peculiarities of log house construction technology, when floor beams were not used.

Important. Be sure to soak all lumber twice with an antiseptic and dry it well before doing this.

Step 1. Marking. Along the perimeter of the room using water or laser level make a zero mark. This will be the finished floor level. From this mark you need to minus the thickness finishing coating and lag. Make a second mark; the supports for the joists should be located at this level. They can be made from concrete, blocks or bricks. There must be concrete in the ground; only the above-ground part is allowed to be laid with bricks.

Step 2. Make supports in any way; the distance between them should take into account the linear parameters of the lag and the total load on the floor.

Step 3. Place all the logs under the rope, do not forget to insulate them with two layers of roofing material.

Practical advice. If possible, nail long boards along the entire length of the log at the bottom; their width should be 6–8 cm greater than the width of the log. The subfloor will be laid on these projections. Doing this is much faster and easier than fixing cranial bars on both sides of the log in an awkward position and cramped conditions. Of course, the thickness of the boards should be taken into account when marking the position of the support posts.

Step 4. Secure the joists. For this you can use metal corners and fix them to the walls of the log house.

Do not forget to leave a gap of approximately 1–2 cm between the walls and the ends of the joists; take metal corners with oblong slots to ensure free longitudinal sliding. Tighten the screws in such a way that the logs can move in the slots. For reliability, it is recommended to attach the logs with dowels through at least one post; the side of the corner fixed to the log must also be movable.

Step 5. Prepare the material for the subfloor.

We have already mentioned that in our case all the scraps are suitable; you can lay some of them with plywood or OSB, and some with pieces of boards or unedged materials. It is desirable that the sheets of plywood and OSB be moisture-resistant; if they are not, then soak them with drying oil or an antiseptic.

Step 6. Check the distance between the joists. If it is the same, then all the workpieces can be cut to a standard length.

Practical advice. It's much faster to work with a template. Cut one board to size; it should fit between the joists with a gap. With this template, go along the entire length of the joists. The dimensions are correct - use this piece as a template when cutting the rest of the pieces. Remember that measurements should only be taken from the template, and not from fresh cut boards. If you use a new piece each time, then errors will accumulate, and they will certainly occur, and the final boards may differ significantly from the required dimensions.

Step 7 Place the boards on the prepared shelves. We have already mentioned that these can be either wide boards nailed at the bottom of the joist or skull blocks installed later on both sides. You should not try to make the subfloor continuous; small gaps do not affect anything. In order to save materials, it is recommended to specifically leave a distance of 5–8 centimeters between individual boards. But this can only be done in cases where pressed mineral wool or foam boards are used as insulation.

Step 8. Steam and waterproofing. If you have extra money and time, you can install hydro- and vapor barriers in any case.

If you don’t want to act rashly, then figure out why such protection is needed. Mineral wool has excellent heat saving properties, does not rot, and does not promote the proliferation of microorganisms, including fungi. This is great, but it has two very significant drawbacks. First, with increasing relative humidity, thermal conductivity increases sharply. Water conducts heat perfectly; there is no need to talk about any heat-protective functions. Secondly, it takes a very long time to dry. This means that all adjacent wooden elements will constantly be in conditions high humidity. There is no need to explain what the result of such conditions is.

If you insulate the ground floor with mineral wool, then a vapor barrier is required. It will prevent moisture from the ground from penetrating into the thermal insulation. If foam-based materials are used as thermal insulation, then such vapor barrier is unnecessary, these materials do not absorb water.

Now about waterproofing. In any case, the subfloor below does not need to be covered with such materials; there are no “gushing” sources in the underground. But after thermal insulation is laid on the subfloor, it is necessary to protect it from moisture penetration from the finished floor. This applies to all types of materials, mineral wool and foam. Waterproofing protects not only them from water, but also the subfloor boards and joists.

Insulating layer over mineral wool

Subfloor for “soft” floor coverings

With its help, not only the loads are evenly distributed over the surface, but also the logs or concrete foundations are leveled. Such floors are used under laminate, piece parquet and parquet board or linoleum. The materials used are sheet plywood, OSB or fiberboard; all materials must be waterproof.

The screed must be level, the difference in height cannot exceed ±2 mm.

There are two ways to lay a subfloor over a screed: on slats or directly on the base. The first method is used in cases where the base has significant unevenness and it is necessary to lay utility networks or make additional insulation.

Align concrete covering using slats is much easier and faster than re-tying using cement-sand mortars. Waterproofing must be placed between the slats and the screed; the height of the slats is leveled with various pads and fixed with dowels. The subfloor slabs are nailed down; the dimensions of the slabs must be adjusted to the distance between the slats. The side edges should be located in the middle of the rail; two plates are fixed on it at the same time. Make sure that the four corners do not meet in one place; this position of the sheets can cause swelling of the finishing flooring.

The second option for laying a subfloor on a screed is used on flat bases that do not require additional insulation. To achieve ideal surface Construction adhesive may be used. It is spread with a comb under the slabs and eliminates even the slightest irregularities, the subfloor becomes a single monolith with the screed. Further, the algorithm for installing the floor depends on the materials used.

The heads of the hardware must be completely recessed; for this purpose, special or homemade hammers are used. If you plan to lay linoleum on the subfloor, it is recommended to sand the entire surface with an electric machine.

Putty plywood floor

Remember to always leave a gap of 1-2 centimeters between the subfloor and the wall. To prevent passage bridges from appearing in these places, place pieces of any heat insulators in them.

Video - Construction of a subfloor

Do-it-yourself installation of wooden flooring from boards over joists is considered a classic type of wooden flooring and is one of the most durable and environmentally friendly materials.

Installation of wooden flooring from boards in a private house is mainly laid on beams, provided they are located at a short distance from each other. When walking on them, they should under no circumstances sag. In the case where the beams are located far from each other, logs are first laid on them, onto which the wooden flooring will then be attached on top.

You can learn how to lay beams for a wooden floor from boards in the article Laying the floor of a house using wooden beams.

Requirements for laying wooden floors from boards on joists:

a) the surface of wooden floors must be horizontal, for which they are laid using a level;

b) wooden flooring should not sag;

c) floors should be as dense as possible and not hygroscopic.

Conditions for long-term use of wooden floor planks.

Since plank floors and joists are often susceptible to pest damage and disease infestation, all wooden elements require proper treatment protective equipment, coat with antiseptic. To maintain service life for a long time.

If the wooden flooring made of boards along joists is made on the ground floor and rests on brick or concrete pillars(columns), then the air under the floor should circulate freely in the warm season. It is imperative to put waterproofing under the joists on the pillars.

If there is damp soil or a floor slab, it is necessary to lay a hydro-vapor barrier material under the logs. For example, thick polyethylene, the overlaps should be at least 10 cm, glue with tape.

Boards for laying wooden floors on joists.

Simple carpentry floors should be laid from dry pine boards 4 cm thick. If the distance between the beams is 50 cm, their thickness can be 3 cm.

The width should be no more than 13-15 cm, since wide boards warp greatly, as a result of which the floor becomes uneven.

Significantly denser wooden floors are obtained by using tongue and groove boards, which, when laid well and correctly, do not create cracks.

In addition, tongue-and-groove ones have a small recess in the bottom middle, a recess. This ensures a tighter connection between each floorboard and joists or beams.

Floorboards of greater thickness are intended for flooring in rooms where the load on the floor is significant.

Installing a wooden floor using planks along joists with your own hands is quite simple if you follow the installation instructions.

Installing joists for laying wooden floors from boards with your own hands.

The logs should be made of durable wood, but not poplar or linden. The thickness should be at least 5 cm, and the width – 10 cm.

The lags are laid on concrete slabs floors, brick or monolithic columns (columns) according to level. If necessary, to maintain the level, planks and bars of the required thickness are placed under them for leveling. You can use the corners for leveling, attaching them on both sides to the joists in increments of no more than 50 cm. You will get a kind of adjustable floors.

Laying the floor boards is done across the joists, so when installing the joists on the base, they need to be laid so that when laying the floor boards, they are long enough to cover the entire width of the room.

If the length of the flooring boards is not sufficient, then they are laid in a “running motion”. First long, then short, the next one from the same edge short, then long. The logs are also laid with a “running start”

If the logs rest on pillars, then they must be laid on edge. This way they will hardly sag under heavy weight. When laying wooden logs on a flat concrete base, you can lay them lying down or on their edges.

Before installing the logs for a wooden floor from boards with your own hands, it is recommended to apply a layer of waterproofing to the concrete or brick base, you can use roofing felt.

The distance between the lags is 50-60 cm - this is the best option, in this case the structure will not sag. If in the future it is planned to insulate wooden floors from planks, then the logs are usually installed to match the width of the insulation, for example mineral wool.

When laying a wooden floor along joists with your own hands, place the first board with a groove against the wall, from which you need to retreat 10-15 mm. At the same time, it should be aligned as accurately as possible using a tape measure, because the entire row will go from it. And if the first board goes crooked, then the entire row will be like this, respectively, at the opposite wall you will get a wedge (triangle).

Floor boards are laid from one edge, gradually moving towards the other wall. Each board is laid in this way, after securing the first one.

The material should be adjusted carefully, without leaving gaps.

To avoid gaps between the boards, they should be pressed together using a hammer.

However, only tongue and groove boards can be pressed tightly against each other. If you tightly tighten the floorboards from a simple edged board, then at best your wooden floor will creak and no additional tightening will get rid of the creaking, and at worst, the floorboards will begin to warp. Since wood absorbs moisture well, increasing the size of the floorboards cannot be avoided.

When laying wooden floors with your own hands, the annual layers should be directed in opposite directions, as in the picture. This method provides a more even flooring, while the floors will practically not warp.

Wedges are driven between the last floor board and the wall to press the floor boards tightly together for driving nails.

At each intersection of the joist with the floorboard, nails are nailed, two at each intersection with the joist, the heads of which must be completely buried in the wood.

They need to be driven in at an angle so that they press each board against the previous one.

When scoring wood flooring For flooring, nails are used that are 3 times thicker than the thickness of the board. Using a hammer, it is recommended to recess the caps a couple of millimeters. This way it will not interfere with planing.

Instead of nails, it is more effective to use self-tapping screws; they hold the boards better, preventing them from tearing away from the beams. Pre-drill holes, but not in the joists. This way the flooring will be pressed tighter.

Do not use black self-tapping screws; they are overheated and may burst under load or may tear off the cap when tightened.

Important! In order to bring a wooden floor as close as possible to the parquet look, you need to purchase a special material - boards made using the glued method.

Do not forget to leave gaps between the walls and floorboards, which will be covered with baseboards.

Planing a wooden floor from planks.

It is easier to purchase a wooden covering already in a planed state, but if this is not available, then the problem can be solved with a sanding machine. If there is no such device, then you should use an electric planer - this method of planing does not give a sufficiently successful effect. It is better to try to apply the first option.

The final stage of installing a wooden floor from boards along joists with your own hands.

At the end of the work, it is necessary to install the skirting boards; if they are new and wooden, then they should be processed smoothly sandpaper, tighten with self-tapping screws or put on liquid nails and paint. Plastic ones are also attached in the same way.

If the wooden flooring will not be finished with anything in the future, then the surface of the wooden floor is smoothly sanded, painted in a certain color or varnished.

Do-it-yourself concrete or sand-concrete floor screed...