Installation of drywall on a wooden frame. Proper installation and fastening to the wall of drywall on a wooden frame Finishing walls with drywall on wooden slats

To work with drywall, various materials are used. The most common method is the installation of profile metal frames, but quite often you can also find wooden structures.

Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so many people prefer it. It is worth saying that the tree is subject to climatic influences, biological corrosion and fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.

Wood preparation

Make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.

Main physical characteristics:

• Humidity from 12 to 18%.
• For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8–3 m, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for the crate is used.
• For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8–4.2 m, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm is suitable for risers and battens, while depending on the height, different sheet thicknesses are used: for a height of 2.8–3 m - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3–3.6 m - 2 × 14 mm, 3.6–3.9 m - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9–4.2 m - 2 × 18 mm.
• The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm.
• Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first fire safety group.
• Connection on nails, spikes and self-tapping screws is allowed, while spikes are most preferable, as they create a rigid and durable connection.
• The thickness of sound insulation made of mineral wool should be between 50 and 60 mm.
• The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm.
• The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie down for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.

Use quality lumber that meets moisture and fire safety requirements. Make sure that you have certificates about the processing of the material with flame retardants and the passage of relevant examinations.

In addition to fire-fighting treatment, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.

This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:

• Fungal and mold microorganisms. A tree can serve as a nutrient medium for the mycelium of a number of mold fungi, while the wood becomes unusable and collapses.
• biological decay. Wood is an organic material that is subject to necrobiosis and decay. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
• carpenter insects. Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
• rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.

Insect pests can damage wood in a short time

Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.

It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The marginal rate is 3.5–4%.

Sodium fluoride penetrates well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not provoke metal corrosion, has no smell and is not toxic to humans. Fairly strong antiseptic.

Sodium silicofluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it to pure sodium fluoride.

The use of oily antiseptics is unacceptable for residential premises:

• creosote;
• coal;
• shale;
• anthracene oils.

These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.

Installation of a wooden frame under drywall

Tracing lines connecting partition walls to walls

To draw lines, use the rule

To do this, measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and step back from it the width of the GKL sheet.

It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb line down the wall. To do this, we hammer a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.

• This can be done by constructing the "Egyptian triangle" - a right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where 3 and 4 correspond to the legs, and 5 is the hypotenuse. At the same time, one leg is set aside along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of three.
• From the bottom point we build an arc of a circle in the direction perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of four.
• From the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build an arc of a circle with a radius that is a multiple of five so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
• Connecting the point of intersection of these arcs with the original low point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line on the floor along this perpendicular - the second line of our partition.

We connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth last line. Thus, we must draw a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.

Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick - attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.

Frame assembly

As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame, vertical and horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.

To do this, along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling, fix the bars. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or spikes to the ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.

If the building is stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.

We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located against the wall, the lower beam will be solid and lie on one side of the opening.

So, we fix all the bars, for drilling holes in the walls and ceiling we use an impact drill with a drill for concrete.

Doorway

Doorway formed by double risers

Do-it-yourself doorway installation instructions:

1. To do this, we install two risers on the sides of it. The width of the opening should be 4-5 cm wider than the door frame.
2. We install the risers and strengthen them with additional bars.
3. At the height of the door frame plus 2-3 cm, we install a horizontal jumper, which we connect with two vertical bars to the ceiling rail.
4. Vertical bars give the structure additional rigidity and are needed for joining drywall sheets.

Racks

To determine the location of the jumper, we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be located at the doorway, in place of its edge we fix the jumper so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.

Advice!
To connect the beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal linings designed for assembling truss systems.
These fasteners are reliable and designed for significant loads.

We check each detail by level, the racks must be strictly vertical, the lintels must be horizontal.

Try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.

The work on sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.

It should be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality lumber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.

Tool

You will need:

1. a hammer;
2. wood saw;
3. screwdriver;
4. impact drill with a drill for concrete;
5. construction knife;
6. plumb;
7. level;
8. pencil;
9. roulette;
10. square;
11. crowbar;
12. screwdriver;
13. coated thread;
14. screws;
15. dowels;
16. brackets.

If you don't have an impact drill or a screwdriver, you can rent them at the hardware store.

Also, do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for soundproofing. You can use thick mats on the mesh so as not to lay the cotton wool in two layers.

Conclusion

Now you know how to assemble a wooden frame under the plasterboard. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website provides a detailed photo and video instruction in which you will find the necessary information on this issue. Good luck!

To work with drywall sheets, you often need to make a frame. It is mainly made from, but sometimes you can use ecological material - wood. Drywall on a wooden frame is mounted in the case of 100% certainty that the tree will not be deformed from moisture and the wooden blocks will be treated from pests.

The tree tends to change its size with sudden changes in temperature, with high humidity. When sheathing the frame with drywall, during its finishing, the wood frame will breathe air that penetrates into the section between the wall and drywall. Therefore, first of all, a wooden frame for drywall is mounted in a room where the walls are dry and there is no moisture. The use of wood saves space, this has always been an important point. Every person wants to leave the space of the room.

Very often, a wooden frame is placed in private wooden houses and in houses made of logs. With proper treatment of wood, it will last a long time.

There is a method of attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling (wall) without a frame. In this case, a number of facts should be taken into account:

1. Wood quality.
2. Room humidity.
3. Wood processing.

The tree "breathes", so it is likely that the drywall will deform or burst. Therefore, before attaching to the wooden base of the ceiling, you should carefully consider this step.

For greater confidence in the guarantee of a wooden frame, the timber is treated with drying oil. In this case, it does not swell when exposed to moisture and does not shrink in dry and hot air.

In dry rooms, it is possible to create a partition based on a wooden frame sheathed with plasterboard.

Necessary tools and material in the work

To work with a wooden beam, tools and materials are needed, without which it is impossible to make a wooden frame with your own hands:

1. Ordinary hammer.
2. A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.
3. Construction knife and blade set.
4. Drill, if the walls are made of concrete or brick.
5. Saw.
6. Meter or tape measure.
7. Ruler and pencil.
8. Laser level or normal.
9. Dowels, wood screws and ordinary screws.

• Drying oil or other antiseptic solution for wood processing.
• Primer, preferably with additives.
• Insulating material - polystyrene foam, mineral wool.
• Putty, reinforced tape.
• Roller, brush.
• A set of spatulas.

Selection and preparation of wood for the frame

In order to make a frame from a wooden beam with your own hands, you need to choose the type of wood. Not every tree will fit this design. The best option is needles.

Read also

Fixing heavy objects to drywall

In order for the tree not to succumb to the influence of external factors, and also so that pests do not start, wooden blocks should be processed:

• Sodium fluoride. This antiseptic penetrates deep into the tissues of the tree. Does not contain impurities toxic to humans, does not smell;
• Fluorosilicic sodium. Soda ash is added.

It is forbidden to process a tree for a dwelling with such means: coal, slate substances. For humans, these drugs are dangerous. Before starting the installation of the frame, the tree should be in the room for several days.

Surface preparation

When starting to install a frame made of wooden bars, you should prepare the surface. For this you will need:

A very important point is the preparation of the surface and the identification of wet spots. The wall must be dry and even.

markup

Marking is applied to the prepared dry wall and a drawing is made for the future design:

• measure the length and height of the wall on which the structure will be made;
• using these numbers, the perimeter of the room is calculated (the length must be multiplied by the height);
• all received numbers are transferred to a sheet of paper. First, on paper, and on the wall, horizontal and vertical lines are drawn, along which the bars for the frame under the drywall will be laid;
• fixing points should be noted.

With the help of the drawing made and the markings applied, the frame will turn out to be even and rigid (without movements and vibrations).

Wooden frame assembly

Before you start fixing the wooden beams with your own hands, for the future frame, you need to use plumb lines to beat off points on the ceiling and on the floor, which will form a clearly horizontal surface. Now:

Read also

Required distance between profiles under drywall

Each step taken in the manufacture of the frame should be checked with a level and compared with plumb lines. The entire structure should be checked for the quality of rigidity, the “floating” structure is unreliable and will not last long.

Fastening drywall to the finished frame

The next step is to install drywall on a wooden frame. Sheathing begins with whole sheets. Drywall is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Mounting step 30 cm.

The joints of the sheets horizontally should be in a checkerboard pattern, that is, one sheet is even, the second is cut by 20 cm and when attached it will be lower, the cut-off GKL bar should be attached at the very top. The open area should be sealed with drywall cut to size. The edge of the drywall sheet should be exactly along the wooden beam.

Finishing

After the step of sheathing the GKL of the wooden structure, the next step is the finishing of the GKL. First you need to process and seal the seams. If a chamfer was not made during plasterboard sheathing, then grooves should be cut with a construction knife at the joints of the sheets, with a depth of about 0.5–0.8 mm. These grooves should be cleaned of excess cardboard and treated with a primer. For such work, a brush is suitable. The primer must be completely dry before proceeding with gluing with reinforced tape and sealing putty.

Putty should be applied in a thin layer, covering not only the seam with the tape, but also the attachment points. After the putty has dried, all excess pebbles-stripes are removed with sandpaper. The sealed seams should be in the same plane with the entire surface (do not protrude).

After the putty has dried, the entire drywall surface should be treated with a primer mixture. This will improve the adhesion of the putty and prevent moisture from penetrating into the GCR.

After puttying the surface, as well as complete drying, the entire surface should be rubbed with sandpaper.

Now the plasterboard wall based on a wooden frame is completely ready for further decoration.

Drywall is one of the most popular building materials. It is used for leveling surfaces, building partitions during redevelopment, installation of various structures. It is not difficult to work with the material, even a novice home master can do it. Installation must begin with the construction of a wooden or metal frame. Despite the fact that the metal base is more durable and easier to install, many prefer a wooden frame for drywall.

Frame materials

The use of a frame makes it possible to hide the flaws of any surfaces without compromising the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Its construction must be taken seriously. The success of further work depends on how accurately it will be calculated and designed.

For the construction of the frame, you need to prepare wooden bars. It should be coniferous wood, the best option is pine.

The material must be flawless and well dried so that during operation it does not deform and withstand heavy loads.

Before starting to work with the material, it should be treated with an antiseptic composition. The antiseptic should not be toxic, since the work will be carried out indoors. It should easily penetrate into the wood, not decompose, not wash out and not have a smell. Do not use oily antiseptics. This can adversely affect the health of the residents of the house.

The thickness of the bars must be at least 40 mm. Permissible humidity - no more than 15-18%. However, the thickness directly depends on the dimensions of the future GKL structure. For example, when constructing a partition, attention should be paid to its width and height. The larger these values, the larger the cross section of the bar should be. For wall or ceiling cladding, the width of the material is selected based on how much usable area I would like to save. If the surfaces are very uneven, you should use bars of different sections.

Base for drywall

Figure 1. Rigid fastening of a wooden frame to the wall.

To fix a wooden frame to walls or ceilings, there are two ways. One of the most reliable is considered to be a rigid mount directly to the wall (Fig. 1). The binding is done first. If the frame is built on the ceiling, then the bars are attached to the walls. If a wooden frame is made for a wall, then the fastening of the bars is carried out to the ceiling, floor and walls located perpendicularly.

The plasterboard frame can be attached to ceilings or walls in another way: using metal brackets. The advantage of this method will be quick installation, and the disadvantage is the low rigidity of the structure.

Before making a wooden frame, for example, on a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to mark up (Fig. 2). For this, the lowest point of the ceiling is determined. From it you need to retreat 50 mm and draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. A strapping rail will be fixed along this contour. To draw an accurate horizontal line at the corners of the room, marks are made at the required level. A cord is pulled between them and a straight line is beaten off. In the rail, you need to drill holes for fasteners with a diameter slightly larger than that of a self-tapping screw or screw.

Figure 2. Marking the frame: 1 - prepare a pencil, an angular ruler and a level, 2 - using a level and a pencil, you should make an even marking for fastening the profiles, 3 - the profile is applied to the marking and screwed to the floor and wall, 4 - marking the attachment point with using a plumb line, 5 - assembling the frame and checking the evenness with a level.

The rail is applied to the line on the wall and the marks of future fasteners are transferred to the surface with a pencil. Then holes are drilled into which dowels or wooden plugs for self-tapping screws will be hammered. Reiki are fixed around the perimeter.

The next step is to install the base of the bars on the surface of the ceiling. The fastening step of the parallel bars should not exceed 800 mm. This will ensure the reliability of the future design. Supporting bars are attached perpendicularly, on which drywall will subsequently be mounted.

The frame for the wall can be assembled on the floor and only then fixed to the wall. The size of the wall on which the drywall will be attached is measured. From the result, subtract 5 mm on each side and cut out the bars of the appropriate size. Assemble the frame from 2 horizontal and 2 vertical bars. Additional rails are fastened with a step of 600 mm, crossbars are fixed perpendicular to them. The frame is fixed with dowels, screws or dowel-nails around the entire perimeter of the wall. With this manufacturing method, the heat-insulating layer is attached directly to the wall, and the frame closes it.

In the manufacture of the frame, you can do without transverse bars if its length does not exceed the length of the plasterboard and there are no door or window openings on the wall.

Making a frame for a partition

Before building a frame for drywall, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of the future partition, on which to indicate the location of the doorway. When calculating the rigidity of the structure, the number of horizontal parts should be taken into account.

To complete the work you will need:

1. Level.
2. Pencil.
3. Perforator or drill.
4. Saw.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Self-tapping screws or screws, mounting dowels.
7. Metal corners.
8. Screwdriver.
9. Bars: for vertical racks, the section is at least 40x70 mm, for horizontal - 30x50 mm.

Installation of the frame begins with fixing the strapping bars to the floor, walls and ceiling (Fig. 3). For this, self-tapping screws and dowels are used, if the floors are concrete, and nails, if the floors are wooden. Anchors will be needed for ceiling mounting.

First, the fastening takes place on the ceiling. The boundaries of the future partition are marked, only after that the bars are mounted. With the help of a plumb line, a line is marked on the floor. For more accurate marking on the walls, you need to make several marks. After marking is completed, the beam is fixed on the floor.

Figure 3. Installation of the frame begins with fixing the strapping bars to the walls, floor and ceiling.

The next step is to attach the vertical strapping that will connect the ceiling and floor bars. Vertical racks will carry the main load in the structure, so the fastening should be as strong as possible with a fastening pitch of no more than 400 mm. If the main walls in the room are not made of durable materials, then dowel-nails are used for fastening. You can drill holes in the wall in which to place plugs from wooden pegs and screw in screws or hammer in nails.

If the main walls are strong and smooth, then the strapping can be fixed on straight hangers, which are used for a metal frame.

When the strapping is ready, racks are installed with a pitch of 600 mm. It is this step that will make it possible to mount each standard sheet of plasterboard on two racks. Racks can be fixed with metal corners.

For horizontal lintels, a beam with the same cross section is used as for the entire structure. They are fastened with screws. For greater reliability, metal corners can be used.

The opening for the door in the new partition needs reinforcement. For this, additional racks and horizontal jumpers are used. The threshold will be the lower part of the frame.

Laying communications in such a partition is not recommended. However, if necessary, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the racks. The electric cable is laid in special protective corrugated pipes or tin boxes.

Drywall is great for interior wall decoration. With its help, you can make absolutely smooth walls, while only a real professional can achieve such a result with just plaster. Drywall is suitable for brick, block and frame walls.

There are three ways to attach this material to the wall. One is to attach drywall to wood slats. In this way, you can hide communications running along the wall (for example, pipes and wires), as well as make additional heat and sound insulation.

Tools and materials:

1. Laths from soft grades of wood. The optimal section is 100 × 50 mm or 75 × 50 mm, but less is possible.
2. Drywall screws
3. screwdriver
4. Wall dowels
5. Drill

Advice. Sound and heat insulating material can be laid under the drywall sheets. For greater effect, you can use heat-insulating drywall.

Process:

1. With chalk, draw marking lines for fastening the rails along the perimeter of the wall and for vertical rails. Calculate the spacing between the vertical battens so that the edges of each drywall sheet are in the middle of the next batten. Cut the slats to the required length with a saw.
2. We fasten the rails to the wall. Use dowels and a drill.
3. Between the attached racks of those de wooden slats, install spacers. They must be adjusted to the size of the drywall sheets so that the joints between the sheets fall in the middle of the spacers. However, nail the slats at different heights, otherwise you will not be able to drive nails into their ends.
4. In those places where the slats do not fit snugly against the wall, place supports from scraps of wood or drywall between them and the wall.
5. When the base mesh is ready, we begin to fix the drywall. Recall that its edges should pass exactly in the middle of the racks and struts. For fasteners, it is best to use screws - they will reduce the risk of splitting drywall. Mark the fastener every 15 mm and so that the screw heads are recessed below the surface of the material. Where the drywall sheet is too large, cut it to size with a fine-toothed hacksaw.
6. We seal the joints between the sheets of drywall. Use adhesive reinforcing tape to seal the seams or regular tape, sticking it with a small amount of plaster. If the gaps between the sheets are more than 3 mm, seal them first with plaster, and then with tape. Cover the tape on top with putty so that you get a very sloping imperceptible elevation along the seam. After sanding and painting it will be invisible.
7. The wall is ready! Now you can cover it with plaster or do the usual finish, for example, glue the wallpaper.

There are several ways to create even walls and ceilings in the interior of the house. With one of them, drywall is attached to a wooden frame. It is made from pine or spruce bars, the cross section of which must correspond to future loads. To create a partition with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a beam of 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm is suitable.

Bars for a frame for drywall are made from spruce or pine trees and are carefully dried and processed.

Requirements for lumber used to create the crate

The beam must be carefully checked. It may be faint yellow or light brown in color without black or blue spots. Each part must have the correct geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and deviations in straightness.

During construction and finishing works, it is recommended to use wood with a moisture content of about 15%. It is impossible to check this on your own, therefore, when selecting the material, you just need to make sure by touching your hand that it is not wet. Before installation, it is advisable to hold the bars in the room where they will be installed for several days.

To protect against biological decay, mold, wood bug and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can use ready-made mixtures for interior work or prepare a 4% solution of sodium fluoride yourself by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to the bars with a brush in several passes and the material is allowed to dry well.

Tools and materials for mounting a wooden frame

A master who begins to mount a wooden frame for drywall should have at hand:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• a hammer;
• building level or plumb;
• coated thread;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels, anchors, brackets or anchor plates;
• steel corners or mounting plates.

In the process of creating a partition, in addition to the bars, you will need plasterboard sheets, mineral wool, a primer, putty and finishing materials.

Marking

Before you start making a wooden frame for drywall, you need to determine the plane in which it will be installed and mark the lines of its intersection with the floor, ceiling and walls. At the same time, you need to remember about the thickness of the GKL and take it into account when marking.

The starting point is chosen at the junction line of the ceiling with one of the walls. Having attached a plumb line to it, they find a mark corresponding to it near the floor. Both points are connected by a vertical line. Drywall sheets are made with sufficient precision to be used to determine the right angle. To do this, we apply the GKL at an angle to the mark on the floor with the narrow side close to the wall. Continuing the perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the next mark. With the help of a plumb line or level, we rise to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines using a coated thread or a pencil with a ruler.

Installation of a wooden frame

The basis of the wooden frame is made up of bars located along its perimeter. They are attached in accordance with the applied markup. The manufacture of the frame begins with a support beam, which is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors, depending on the base material. If there is a doorway in the partition, two beams are taken, diverging from the passage to the walls.

When installing the frame, it must be taken into account that the drywall sheets are fixed so that the joints of the two sheets are in the middle on the bar.

In the same way, the bars are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then vertical racks are installed in the central part of the frame. Start with the bars framing the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm larger than the outer size of the door frame.

Racks are installed strictly vertically with their ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling bars of the frame. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws using steel corners or mounting plates intended for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will ensure communication reliability. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm, the racks are connected with a horizontal jumper.

Between the opening and the walls evenly with a step of 40 - 60 cm put the required number of racks. For large partitions, it will have to be covered with several sheets of plasterboard. Drywall is fixed on wooden slats so that the junction of two sheets falls exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of racks is carried out taking into account future cutting and installation of plasterboards.

For the same reason, if the ceiling height is greater than the length of the drywall sheet, horizontal bars are fixed at the junction of the first and second rows.

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard sheets and finishing work

Installation of GKL on a wooden frame starts from the bottom corner of the partition or from the doorway. To do this, use wood screws 35 mm. They are installed in increments of up to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. At the same time, the heads of the self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for high-quality wall decoration.

If necessary, cutting drywall is cut with a construction knife, followed by a break at the place of the cut. The sheets are joined together with factory edges to each other, and the cut edges turn to the walls and ceiling.

After installing the GKL on one side of the partition, its internal space for sound insulation is filled with briquettes of mineral wool, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Electrical and information cables are laid, protected from damage by corrugated tubes. Then the back side of the wall is sheathed.

After sheathing the frame with drywall, it must be primed, and then the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws should be well puttied.

The drywall sheets installed in place are treated with a primer. After it dries, all joints and caps of self-tapping screws are covered with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely flat surface is obtained. After two days, it is primed again and wallpaper, ceramic tiles or any other type of fine finish is applied.

Plasterboarding uneven walls and ceilings

If the dimensions of the room allow part of the space to be occupied by drywall, you can quickly and accurately close uneven walls and ceilings with it. For this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.

When sheathing the wall, repeat all the operations described for mounting the jumper, placing the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take bars and slats of a smaller section, since they can additionally be attached with brackets or anchor plates to the wall to be closed.

Some masters assemble the frame on a flat floor, and only then put it in the right place and fix it. All cavities between the bars are filled with heat-insulating materials. Install drywall on the rails, trying to prevent the presence of joints above the door and window openings, since there will be no support vertical racks.

When installing the GKL on the ceiling, the frame bars are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and at the same level. After that, an internal crate is made with fixing it to the extreme bars and to the ceiling slabs. Ceiling plasterboard has a slightly smaller thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install.