How to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden surface. Self-leveling floors and wooden base How self-leveling floors are poured onto a wooden floor

The 21st century is the time that brought self-leveling flooring to wooden base so popular and in demand both in residential premises and in modern offices. Today, self-leveling floors on wooden floors are not just a covering, but also an excellent decorative solution, especially if three-dimensional imaging technology is used together. Such floor coverings have many advantages and are worthy performance characteristics, as well as a completely affordable price. Few people know how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor with their own hands, but it is not as difficult as it might seem at first. This guide will help you make a self-leveling floor on planks.

What types of self-leveling floors are there on a wooden base?

Self-leveling flooring on a wooden base is not just one solution, but a whole category of materials that are applied to a concrete or wooden (as in this case) base. Self-leveling floors on wooden floors can be divided into:

  • Polyurethane. Durable and resistant to prolonged exposure polymer flooring, which is ideally suited for furnishing flooring in places with a lot of people.
  • Epoxy. These are self-leveling floors on a wooden floor that do not react in any way to moisture. It is recommended to install such floors in wet areas, especially in the bathroom and kitchen.
  • Epoxy-urethane. A type of polymer floor that has good performance strength and wear resistance. Can be used as an alternative to polyurethane coating.
  • Methyl methacrylate. Polymer floor with excellent thermal insulation properties, is often used for arranging floors in rooms without heating or with poor heating during the cold season.

Do-it-yourself self-leveling flooring on a wooden floor can be one-component or two-component. The first type is often used as a basis for installing parquet, stone, tiles or other decorative covering. Two-component coatings often contain a three-dimensional image, which gives the floor a creative and unusual look. appearance. Next we will figure out whether it is possible to make a 3D floor on a wooden floor and how to do it.

The main advantages of self-leveling floors on a wooden base

A poured floor on a wooden floor is a solution that has gained its popularity not only due to its appearance, but also because of its good technical characteristics and numerous advantages. They can be found below:

  • High resistance to prolonged mechanical stress, resistance to wear and abrasion.
  • Excellent impact resistance chemical substances– wood-look self-leveling floors will withstand even acids.
  • Wide range of available color solutions, design styles, patterns and textures, images.
  • Excellent sound and heat insulation properties - creative self-leveling wooden floors are quiet and warm!
  • High strength, reliability, long term using a coating that will last for decades.
  • The presence of antistatic properties, thanks to which the self-leveling wooden floor is quite easy to clean.
  • Absolute seamlessness - this simplifies the process of maintaining the floors and prevents squeaks from the coating.

You can notice that the self-leveling floor in wooden house is not only modern and beautiful, but also practical solution, which can delight the inhabitants of the home for many years. In addition, such a coating can be equipped on its own. We will learn how to fill a wooden floor with self-leveling flooring, what tools and building materials are needed for this.

What tools are needed to install the floor?

Do-it-yourself self-leveling flooring for wooden bases requires the use of a wide range of tools, devices and materials that must be prepared before starting work. You should definitely have on hand:

  • A special mixture for self-leveling flooring is the basis of the future floor covering.
  • Long spatula, needle roller (necessary for removing air bubbles).
  • A construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment if you don’t have a mixer.
  • Laser or ordinary building level, aluminum rule.
  • A container of at least 20 liters, a set of construction beacons and wooden blocks.
  • Alabaster, mortar, water in sufficient quantity for the mixture.
  • Triangular scraper, screwdriver, screws, dowels, long ruler.

It also wouldn’t hurt to wear special clothing - protective gloves, an eye and face mask, as well as shoes designed for walking on painted surfaces (paint shoes). After preparing the necessary arsenal, you can begin.

Preparing the base for a polymer floor

Is it possible to pour self-leveling floors on a wooden floor? Yes, sometimes craftsmen do not ask themselves whether it is possible to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor and apply the solution directly to the old coating. However, even in this case, it is necessary to carefully prepare the wood base - it should be sanded well so that the surface becomes rough. This will significantly improve the adhesion of the floor to the layers. polymer coating. It is also worth making sure that there are no traces of grease, dirt, oil and other contaminants on the wooden floor surface - they are removed with a solvent.

Is it possible to apply self-leveling flooring to a wooden floor if it creaks? No - otherwise the final coating will lie unevenly and cause a lot of problems. To avoid trouble, you also need to check the floor. All boards must be securely fastened in the correct position, the floor itself must be level, without unevenness or defects. Also, before applying the polymer floor, you will need to remove all paint from the surface of the base, if there is any.

Before making self-leveling floors in a wooden house, you need to do a little preparation of the coating:

  • Remove all baseboards and close the holes created by removing the baseboards.
  • Seal all cracks, chips and unevenness on the floor surface mortar.

Now you can begin actions that will ultimately lead you to completing the installation of the self-leveling floor.

Level the surface and install beacons for the floor

In order for the floor to be as level as possible, you need to take care of it initial stages. So, before pouring the solution, draw a line along the entire length of the room, then place self-tapping screws along it, the distance between which is 30 centimeters. Using laser building level you will need to find the highest point located on the wooden base for the polymer floor. After detection, you need to add about 5-6 mm (the thickness of the floor layer) and align the screws at the same level. It's still too early to do 3D flooring on wood floors.

The next stage, which continues the installation of a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, is the placement of beacons. They must be placed on previously installed screws, securely fastened with mortar. After this, you should prepare a solution for the self-leveling floor - to do this, the contents of the package must be mixed in a container with water according to the instructions indicated on the package, and then stirred until smooth with a construction mixer.

Let's start pouring the mortar for the self-leveling floor onto the wood

We already know whether it is possible to use a self-leveling floor on a wooden base. The solution prepared in advance should be carefully poured onto the prepared base, covering an area of ​​about 2 square meters at a time. meters. The layer must be leveled along the beacons using a long spatula. When the formation of the layer is completed, you will need to remove all air bubbles on the surface of the coating using a needle roller - this is a very important stage on which the future fate of the entire result depends. Wait until the floor is completely dry.

Now you know how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor - video instructions on the Internet will help you see what the process looks like visually, which will give you a better understanding of the essence of the technology. The prepared coating can be used as a basis for application decorative materials, or left as an independent gender.

Self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, wooden base, as a rule, are found in wooden buildings. Often these can be old houses in villages, and modern cottages made from logs. Be that as it may, in each of these cases it is possible to install a self-leveling floor.

Types of floors in wooden houses

In wooden houses, as in any other residential premises, it is imperative to Special attention pay attention to the arrangement of the floor, since its rooms are located, usually on the first floor. Therefore, in addition to the obvious requirements for evenness and aesthetics, the coating must also be insulated.

There are two types of floors in a wooden house: concrete or wood. In this case, it is the concrete base that has large quantity benefits. It takes less time and money, and in addition, professional skills for installing such a coating are not required. But at the same time, there is a significant increase in the load on the foundation, and vibrations of the walls can provoke cracking of the base and loss of the heat-insulating ability of the material.

The second option is still more resistant to wall vibrations and more environmentally friendly. In addition, they can be machined and parts can be easily replaced, even after installation. At the same time, their cost is quite considerable, work is required professional workers, and achieving a perfectly smooth surface is almost impossible.

Materials and tools

Laying a self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not so difficult process For self-execution, but at the same time it requires attentiveness and accuracy.

You will need the following tools and materials:

  • Construction aluminum rule with a length of at least 2 meters;
  • Needle roller;
  • Special dry mixture for self-leveling floors;
  • Construction mixer;
  • Laser construction level;
  • Alabaster;
  • Construction beacons - special slats with perforations with a thickness of 6 to 10 mm;
  • Large bucket 20 liters;
  • Putty knife;
  • Construction beacons in the form of special slats with perforations from 6 to 10 mm thick;
  • Stationery ruler;
  • Building mixture;
  • Self-tapping screws, screwdriver, dowels;
  • Vacuum cleaner and cleaning powder;
  • Triangular scraper;
  • Wooden blocks

Preparing the base before applying the mixture

Preparation of the base is important stage, on which the quality of the finished coating largely depends. If you do not take into account the phased the right technology installation of self-leveling floors, the coating may crack, collapse and peel off ahead of time. Quality base- This is the key to the durability of the flooring in your home.

In some cases, a self-leveling floor is made directly onto the old one. wood covering. Therefore, it is recommended to sand the wood and give it rough structure using sandpaper. There should be no fats, oils, varnish or dirt left on the surface of the wood.

Now you have to remove all the baseboards and close all the holes that are in the floor with blocks. The floor must be thoroughly cleaned with a scraper, special attention should be paid to the inter-board joints, and all cracks must also be opened. Thoroughly clean the base of the future self-leveling floor using a vacuum cleaner and degrease it using cleaning powder.

Next, the well-cleaned cracks and cracks need to be sealed using mortar, then the surface should be leveled. The next step is to draw a line along the entire length of the room at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule being used. Self-tapping screws are placed along these lines in increments of 30 centimeters. Now applying laser level you need to find the highest point on the base for the future self-leveling floor.

Remember that you need to add 6 mm - the thickness of the self-leveling floor and start screwing in the screws at the same level, while at the room ends the screws are also screwed in perpendicular to the pre-marked lines. Alabaster is laid out in small pieces near each screw.

The next step is to lay the beacons intended for self-leveling floors directly on the screws, while being careful that your beacons do not sag - they can be additionally cemented. The dry mixture is mixed with water using a mixer, in the proportion indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Ready solution leave for 5 minutes, then check for fluidity and homogeneity.

The finished self-leveling floor solution is poured at one time onto an area equal to 2 square meters. The solution must be leveled using the beacon rule; also roll it with a needle roller to ensure uniformity. During the work, you need to ensure that the level of the self-leveling floor is level relative to the beacons. Leave the finished floor to dry thoroughly.

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Conducting renovation work, homeowners increasingly prefer the device cement screeds as finishing coating.

This type of floor guarantees strength, durability, and the latest developments make it possible to apply design art.

The technology for the production of self-leveling floors does not raise any questions when pouring them onto floor slabs. But self-leveling flooring on a wooden base - this problem seems insoluble. Let's look at how to properly prepare a wooden base for pouring and what to pay attention to to avoid mistakes.

Required properties of the base

If the floor boards are stuffed onto joists that are fixed to concrete base, then it is better to dismantle everything before the rough screed.

This will significantly simplify the process of filling the floor and is guaranteed to increase its service life.

Plank flooring as a basis for a self-leveling floor must have certain characteristics:

  1. The coating must be hard. Playing or loose elements are not allowed.
  2. When applying physical pressure, floor boards should not bend.
  3. The floor must have a minimum difference in height.
  4. The tree should not have any damage. Boards that show signs of rotting or large cracks should be replaced.

It is important to check not only the finishing coating material, but also the joists for defects. When the boards sag, you should lay additional beam grounds.


If there is no waterproofing, remove the old coating and lay down a protective film

Be sure to check the condition of the floor waterproofing. If the material is leaky or has not been laid, this must be done. To do this, you will have to dismantle everything down to the subfloor, lay down a film and restore the plank covering again. This must be done because wood is a living material and reacts to moisture.

The boards on which the screed will be poured should not undergo any changes so as not to destroy the cement layer.

If the wooden base meets all the above requirements, you can begin preparing it for pouring the floor.

Preparatory stage

Under the self-leveling floor on a wooden base, it is necessary to remove as much as possible flat surface. Preparation is perhaps the most important step.

The quality and service life of the future self-leveling floor depends on how well the base wood is processed.


Sand the old coating by removing the paint and varnish layers

The order of work in the preparation process:

  1. All skirting boards should be dismantled along with fasteners and small cracks or holes in the boards should be noted.
  2. The floor is cycled, and the removal layer may be larger than usual. It is necessary to get rid of paint, varnish or other coating. At the same time, they get rid of small dents and shallow chips.
  3. Unliquidated cracks are sealed with bars or putty.
  4. The surface is sanded to give it a slight roughness and get rid of excess putty.
  5. The floor is being cleaned. Small debris and dust are removed. The surface is degreased.

After carrying out the above measures, the floor must be primed. Moreover, this must be done at least 2 times. This is done in order to improve the adhesion of the screed solution to the wooden material.

Choose the right primer containing quartz sand. This treatment will give the floor additional roughness and increase the degree of adhesion.


When mixing cement-acrylic mortar, be careful with adding water, excess will cause cracking of the coating

Expert advice:

  1. Before installing a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, check the humidity level in the room and the air temperature. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations on the packaging.
  2. Before pouring, cover the entire perimeter of the floor with damper tape, this will help avoid additional risks of destruction of the screed.
  3. According to technology upper layer performed by a leveler. Check the manufacturer's information to see if this particular mixture is approved for use on a wooden base.
  4. If you use a cement-acrylic mortar, then when mixing it, try to avoid excess water. High water content will cause cracks in the screed when drying. About how self-leveling floors are made plywood base watch in this video:

The pouring height is no more than 5 mm; to control the thickness and evenness of the layer, install beacons over the area of ​​the room.

Types of flooring mixtures, their advantages and disadvantages:

MixtureAdvantagesFlaws
PolyurethaneResistant to UV rays
Possibility of installing 3D floors
Low resistance to mechanical damage
EpoxyAlmost zero susceptibility to chemical and physical influencesLong readiness cycle
High price
Methyl methacrylateReady for use quickly
High strength
Toxic until hardened
Cement-acrylicLabor-intensive when pouring

Pouring process

When installing a self-leveling floor on a wooden base, mix the solution strictly in the proportions indicated on the package. If you are inexperienced, mix small batches to prevent the solution from thickening. You should start pouring from the wall opposite the door, from the far corner. To learn how self-leveling floors are made on a wooden base, watch this video:

As a rule, work takes place in a certain sequence:

  • the solution is mixed. The ideal density of the solution resembles thick sour cream;
  • spread the mixture over the surface using a squeegee or spatula, achieving the required thickness;
  • remove the beacons;
  • remove air by walking over the surface of the layer with a needle roller.

When buying a roller, take into account the thickness of the layer being poured: the size of the needles should be 2 mm larger than the thickness. Otherwise, the base of the roller will touch the fill layer and create unevenness on the surface.


Allow the filled layer to dry for 2 days

The poured layer must dry for 2 days at constant temperature and humidity. At first, do not allow water to get on the floor surface.

Self-leveling flooring for wooden bases can be used not only on plank base. Self-leveling mixtures can also be poured onto plywood. In this case, it is better to choose polymer mixtures for filling.

To work with cement mortars it is necessary to approach more carefully. When working with aqueous solutions It is better to lay a waterproofing film on the wood. If necessary, place a reinforcing mesh on top of it.

Valued for their quality and high performance wear resistance. This durable coating, which can really not only make the floor smooth, but also beautiful. But for such floors to last long years and looked really presentable, it is important to fill them correctly. In this case, one of the important aspects of the pouring process is proper preparation grounds. It’s interesting that you can make a self-leveling floor on a wooden base, and not just on a solid concrete one. What installation features are important to consider in this case?

Self-leveling floors are made from special polymer mixtures, which, when hardened, can become a strong, neat and even base if installed correctly. The mixtures used to create them may contain cement, gypsum, various fillers, as well as a number of modifying additives that give the floors certain properties - for example, strength, ability to resist impacts, speed of mixture hardening, etc.

They are valued for the following advantages:

  • high level of wear resistance;
  • large selection of colors;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • excellent moisture-proofing properties;
  • antistatic;
  • durability;
  • seamless – floors of this type can be poured throughout the entire apartment without a single joint;
  • range resistance mechanical influences, as well as to exposure to almost all existing chemicals.

Self-leveling floors must be poured onto a properly prepared base. And many doubt whether they can be built on top. It turns out that it is possible. It is only important to properly prepare such a foundation. It is also important to choose the right type of mixture for filling.

Table. Types of mixtures for filling.

Mixture typeCharacteristic
Epoxy This mixture makes good floors that are completely resistant to water. They are usually installed in rooms where the humidity level is high. This floor can be poured onto a wooden base.
Polyurethane One of the most durable floors with respect to severe long-term impacts. Excellent for installation in high-traffic areas.
Methyl methacrylate This mixture is intended for creating foundations in rooms without heating. Perfect for those where winter time no heating.
Epoxy-urethane Durable floors that are highly resistant to a wide range of influences. Alternative option polyurethane floor.

On a note! Compositions for filling floors can be either two-component or one-component. In the first case, you can create floors with beautiful design, and mixtures of the second type are used to create a base for other materials such as tiles, stone, etc.

Prices for self-leveling floors "Starateli"

self-leveling floors prospectors

Choosing a mixture for filling

Usually on each package with a mixture for making self-leveling base its purpose is indicated. That is, for example, some are suitable for creating floors on a concrete base, while others can be used on a wooden one. Most often, mixtures containing gypsum and cement are excellent for these purposes.

Important! Do not confuse mixtures for filling the floor with compositions intended for leveling the surface. Such compositions are poured thin layer just a few millimeters. For filling the floor wooden base the thickness of the poured layer should be greater.

To choose the right mixture for pouring a wooden floor, it is important to carefully study the instructions.

What will you need?

To make a self-leveling floor yourself, you may need certain tools. The list of things to buy or rent includes:

  • the mixture itself;
  • wide spatula equipped with a long handle;
  • construction mixer or regular drill with a special nozzle;
  • a needle roller, which is used to remove air bubbles from the poured mixture;

  • construction level of any type - necessary to evaluate the final result;
  • polishing agents ( Sander, sandpaper etc.);
  • waterproofing materials (at least thick polyethylene film);
  • construction vacuum cleaner;

  • hammer, nails, nail puller;
  • a sealing mixture that can be used to eliminate gaps between floor boards or sheets of plywood. Can be replaced with putty.

Self-leveling mixtures are gaining popularity as they form durable, wear-resistant coatings, allowing the creation of surfaces with artistic effects. Therefore, many are wondering how to quickly and efficiently make a self-leveling floor on a wooden base and what instructions to follow. At the same time, we are talking about a wide variety of housing - from frankly old houses with interfloor ceilings on beams, to apartments with wooden flooring concrete slab, as well as housing where parquet is laid.

General requirements

Before considering an option such as a self-leveling floor on a wooden base, it is worth carefully assessing the existing conditions. The most important of them include:

  • quality of flooring. The tree should not be rotten, dry, or affected by mold;
  • level of existing coverage. The poured floor has a recommended thickness of 20-30 mm, so if you have to compensate for a significant difference in heights, you will need to invest significantly more money in the purchase of the mixture and additionally use fiberglass reinforcing mesh.

The process of preparing the surface for a self-leveling floor on a wooden base depends on what class of coating will be used. The most a difficult situation– if you want to get an artistic or so-called 3D floor. In this case, you cannot use mastics on water based and any compositions that can be mixed with the specific construction mixture used for pouring.

Elevation differences are assessed using a laser level. The highest point is determined in several directions and the difference in floor level is calculated. Based on the data obtained, a decision is made whether it is possible to get by with quick surface preparation or whether it will be necessary to resort to a leveling operation so that the self-leveling floor for wooden bases does not require a significant investment of money and time.

Inspection and repair

Before making a new covering, especially a self-leveling floor in a wooden house, you should carefully inspect and, if necessary, repair the existing flooring. To do this, do the following:

  • the surface is inspected for clearly visible drying out and cracks;
  • one board is torn off and assessed for fungal and mold damage;
  • boards are inspected to identify large areas of damage;
  • the surface is checked, boards are found whose attachment to the support joists is broken.

For small areas with signs of drying out, cracking and destruction, you can carry out partial renovation with your own hands. To do this, boards in poor condition are torn down and replaced with new ones. You can partially repair the floor yourself: to do this, the damaged segments are cut out with a jigsaw and covered with new wood.

Important note: parquet that is in extremely poor condition does not make sense to repair or restore. It's easier to rip it off entirely. The same operation should be performed if inspection of the boards shows that they are affected from below by mold, rot, have dried out or decayed. Repairing a floor that is in extremely poor condition on your own is ineffective; it will not serve as a reliable foundation for pouring.

Surface preparation: option one

If you decide to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden base and an assessment of the boards shows their good condition, you can prepare the surface quickly and quite effectively. This will require the use of a special tool. The following operations are carried out:

  • baseboards around the perimeter of the room are torn off;
  • the entire surface where the wood self-leveling floor will be located is cleaned of linoleum, glue residues, and paint coatings;
  • the surface is scraped, a sufficient layer of chips is removed to obtain a smooth base with a minimum of depressions and cracks;
  • all through cracks and gaps are covered with wood putty. Do the same with depressions formed as a result of the destruction of the board.

The rough-prepared base for self-leveling wood flooring is sanded and thoroughly cleaned of sawdust and dust using a vacuum cleaner. The board is degreased and coated with anti-mold and antifungal agents.

After this, coating with bitumen is done, and if desired, self-leveling floors are made on a wooden floor using 3D technology - one-component polymer or epoxy mixture for waterproofing.

This method of preparing the base is the fastest, the resulting characteristics of the flooring are acceptable, the technique is used with a height difference of up to 40 mm (during scraping, you can compensate for a 10 mm difference by removing a larger layer of wood in the right places of the pouring area).

Surface preparation: option two

If self-leveling floors on a wooden floor are made with the condition effective protection from leaks, it makes sense to create a waterproofing layer using roll materials. This option has an attractive cost-quality ratio compared to the option of coating with polymer or epoxy mixtures.

In order to prepare the base, you will need:

  • release wood flooring from paint, glue, linoleum residues;
  • carry out degreasing, treatment with anti-mold and antifungal impregnations;
  • apply bitumen mastic;
  • lay the rolled waterproofing material. The strips of material are overlapped by 10-15 cm; when using a polymer film, the joint is glued with tape to bituminous materials– the application area is heated construction hairdryer and roll it with a roller.

This method of operation is applicable for small height differences of up to 30 mm. The main goal is to obtain a base that is reliably isolated from leaks.


Surface preparation: option three

If there is a large difference in height, apply a self-leveling floor to a wooden floor using one construction mixture– economically ineffective. The base has to be leveled, reducing the level difference. To do this, it is convenient to use a simple composition, which is a mixture of PVA glue and sawdust. The work stages look like this:

  • wooden flooring is cleaned of linoleum, glue, paint and varnish coatings;
  • the surface is degreased and treated with protective impregnations;
  • using thin strings stretched from corner to corner of the room, a leveling guide is made relative to the top point existing foundation. It serves to estimate the amount of leveling mixture that will be applied to separate areas grounds;
  • a mixture of PVA glue and sawdust is laid and leveled so as to form a surface along the drawn lines.

After the laid composition has hardened (the time will be less if ventilation is provided), the surface is suitable for any further work according to a simplified scheme. For example, you can coat it with a thin layer of special waterproofing compounds, lay a polymer film, carry out any work to protect against leaks.


General requirements for the waterproofing and pouring procedure

Before any work, either using coating waterproofing materials or rolled materials, the perimeter of the room is covered with a special construction tape. When installing protection, it is worth remembering: film, roofing felt, glassine and other insulators should be located about 10 cm on the wall.

Before pouring the floor, the perimeter is covered again, this time with a damping tape 20 mm thick along the waterproofing. This is necessary to compensate for temperature expansions that occur in the thickness of the self-leveling floor to prevent its cracking.

The actual pouring process is not difficult. The mixture is diluted according to the manufacturer’s instructions, poured onto the prepared base, treatment should be carried out in small areas 2 sq.m. Although the composition is quite liquid, it is recommended to level it using a long rule.

In order to prevent the formation of cavities, bubbles, and other structural disturbances when the self-leveling floor dries, all air must be removed from the mixture layer. This operation is carried out with a special roller with needles; it can be used immediately to level the layer of the mixture.

Video on how to make a self-leveling floor on plywood:

Since it is convenient to fill the floor in relatively small areas, you may need to move around the partially or completely treated area. Special shoe linings with a needle-like surface are designed for this purpose.

After it is poured, all that remains is to wait for it to dry, maintaining the microclimate in the room recommended by the manufacturer of the composition. Applied to a carefully prepared and protected wood base, the self-leveling layer will delight you with its strength, durability, aesthetics and perfectly smooth surface.

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