Do-it-yourself wall cladding with drywall step by step instructions. How to sheathe walls with drywall: tips for beginners
Finishing walls with drywall is an extremely important process in the construction business. This method of leveling the surface is considered one of the easiest and at the same time quite reliable. Drywall is durable and able to provide a good service life. In this article, we will consider how to finish the walls with drywall with our own hands, and also tell you the procedure for working in a wooden house.
Types of wall decoration
There are two processing methods using drywall. This is a method with and without frame installation. Both are quite often used in the construction business. Let's take a closer look at each of them.
Frameless way
This method is simple and fast enough. In this case, the installation of drywall is done with glue. But, do not forget that for such work it is necessary to use a special glue for drywall sheets. Fortunately, this one is quite common and can be found at any hardware store.
For installation, the first step is to prepare the walls. All dirt and dust must be removed from them, and also treated with a primer. You will also need to check the wall for defects and curvature.
If the unevenness of the wall does not exceed seven millimeters, then gluing occurs in the usual way. Glue is applied to the material and smeared over the entire plane. If the curvature is large, then the glue must be applied in the form of cakes at a certain interval. But, when the irregularities exceed twenty millimeters, we recommend that you first level the wall using putty, and only then glue the drywall.
Wall pasting
After cleaning and checking for irregularities, the wall is treated with a primer. Priming helps to increase the adhesion of the surface, and also protects the wall from the formation of mold and fungus. After, we wait until the primer is completely dry, and only then it will be possible to continue working. The next step is to prepare the adhesive solution. It must be prepared according to the instructions on the package and in no case violate the manufacturer's recommendations.
Recommends not to cook a lot at once, as the glue dries pretty quickly. After thirty minutes, the mixture will harden and cannot be used. We process the section of the wall with glue, on which drywall will subsequently be attached.
Next, the material is laid face down on the floor and is also treated with an adhesive solution over the entire area. For better installation, we recommend applying the adhesive with a second layer vertically. Next, the drywall is lifted and applied to the wall. It remains only to align it on a plane using a building level and a hammer made of wood or rubber.
Advice! We recommend installing small spacers about ten millimeters thick between the floor and the sheet. This will help the material expand with a sharp change in temperature or humidity. As a gasket, you can use the drywall itself.
The installation of the remaining sheets is carried out in the same way. The main thing is to take accurate measurements so that the adjacent sheets become correctly. We recommend paying special attention to the corners. Now let's take a closer look at the installation method with the installation of the frame.
Frame installation method
This method involves laying on the frame. The design can be made of metal or wooden bars. However, please note that the wooden frame must be well dried, otherwise the wood may dry out over time, which will lead to warping. And because of this, cracks or gaps may appear. Therefore, many professionals in the building trade recommend the use of metal profiles. They have good technical performance and can last for many years. The following photo shows an example of a wooden and metal frame for plasterboard wall cladding.
Frame installation
When choosing a metal structure, two profiles can be used: rack or guide. The guide profile is used to install the circuit and is attached to the ceiling and floor. They must be perfectly level. First, the profile is mounted to the ceiling, and then, using a plumb line, the installation location on the floor is determined. Next, rack profiles will need to be inserted into the guide profiles. They will need to be connected with screws. The interval between the uprights should be approximately fifty millimeters.
In order for the frame to be firmly installed, the profiles are usually attached to suspensions, the installation of which takes place in advance. The suspension installation interval is approximately forty centimeters. The installed frame is visible in the photo below:
Drywall fixing
This is already much easier to install the frame. The main thing is to properly fit the drywall sheet and install it in the right place. For installation, professionals recommend using black self-tapping screws, as they are made of heavy-duty material.
The self-tapping screw is screwed in carefully so as not to deform the drywall. The number of screws will need to be determined in advance.
Wall putty
The final stage of installation will be puttying the wall. If the frame method was chosen, then first of all it is necessary to process the fixing points with a solution and only then the joints between the sheets. For putty, experts use a special tape called sickle. Then the wall is primed and treated with putty until it becomes perfectly smooth.
Finishing a wooden house
Sheathing walls with drywall in a wooden house, although a difficult task, the result is worth it. You will get absolute symmetry and perfectly even walls, which is a huge advantage for a wooden house. Also, plasterboard sheathing will additionally insulate the walls. After finishing, you can choose any coating for further cladding, whether it be wallpaper or decorative plaster. Let's look at the procedure for sheathing a wooden house in more detail. The preparation process for a wooden house is visible in the following photo.
Plasterboard sheathing
The first step is to take measurements and cut the sheets. This will require:
- mark with a ruler and pencil;
- with a sharp construction knife, make an incision in the top sheet;
- break the sheet according to the markup;
- bend the sheet at an angle and cut the back side of the drywall;
- on the cut material at the joints at a distance of about 10 millimeters, make markings;
- again make a cut with a construction knife;
- chamfer at an angle of 45 degrees;
- smooth out all irregularities with sandpaper.
Now you can start fixing the drywall. It is better to place the material in a checkerboard pattern, a slight shift is acceptable. Sheets are attached to the screws. Fasteners should be at a distance of approximately 25 centimeters. The closer the screws are, the better.
Finishing
Before proceeding to the finishing of the walls in a wooden house, check the location of the electrical wiring. Since it will be very difficult to disassemble the walls in order to fix everything.
Small grooves are formed at the joints during processing. They need to be filled with plaster and drown a sickle in them. This procedure will protect the coating from the formation of seams and cracks. Then all the recesses above the self-tapping screws are filled with plaster. The final procedure can be considered wallpapering or applying decorative plaster.
If you plan to stick wallpaper, you will need to pre-treat the wall with a primer. In order for the wallpaper to hold as well as possible, we recommend applying an additional layer of glue to the drywall. The next photo shows the result of finishing a wooden house with plasterboard.
Eventually
As you can see, plasterboard walls have a lot of advantages. Such a procedure will allow not only to align the walls, but also to insulate the house. The procedure for decorating walls with your own hands is quite difficult, but if you carefully follow the tips and recommendations, you will succeed. The interior decoration of a wooden house with drywall also allows you to strengthen the walls and protect them from moisture. We recommend watching the following video to see the process of finishing the walls with drywall:
The fact that hl finishing is the best option for leveling any surface, no one doubts. But in the process of repair, many questions arise: what method of cladding to choose, how to properly sheathe the walls with drywall? The material below will help you understand the nuances of this stage of repair and give answers to some important questions.
Choice of finish
Drywall is a unique building material for wall cladding due to a number of qualities:
- availability;
- with the help of hl you can get an ideal surface;
- environmental friendliness;
- resistance to external factors (moisture-resistant and fire-resistant hl);
- ease of installation, since even a novice master can sheathe a wall with drywall on his own;
- ease of use;
- the possibility of spot repairs with the least cost of money and time.
1 - GKL; 2 - GKLO; 3 - GKLV; 4 - GKLVO
In addition, sound insulation and communications can be placed in the space between the sheets of material and the ceiling. It is allowed to cover such a wall with any kind of decorative finish: tiles, paint, wallpaper. It also allows you to design and manufacture built-in niches and shelves directly on the wall, which is an indisputable plus in small apartments.
Before you sheathe the wall with drywall, you should decide on the installation method. The choice of cladding option depends on the material of the stationary floors and the operating conditions of the future structure. In modern houses and apartments, walls usually come in three types:
- reinforced concrete;
- brick;
- wooden (found mainly in country houses).
On any of these surfaces, HL sheets can be either glued or installed on a frame, wooden or metal. The main criterion that will affect the choice of sheathing method will be the size of defects and irregularities on the floor surface. If the flaws do not exceed 20 mm, then you can glue the hl on putty or special glue. In other cases, it is more reliable to use a frame. Now let's talk about how you can sheathe the walls with drywall yourself and what you need for this.
1 - difference up to 20mm; 2 - difference more than 20mm
Comparative characteristics of wall cladding methods with drywall
Each mounting option has its pros and cons. Therefore, before starting work, it is worth evaluating them as objectively as possible.
- Frame installation.
Advantages:
- mechanical strength and reliability of the structure;
- the possibility of installing soundproofing and concealing communications;
- installation on any surface (even very uneven);
- this design will withstand the weight of the tile, so it can be safely used in the bathroom or in the kitchen.
Disadvantages:
- the complexity of the installation, since it is necessary to assemble the frame with your own hands;
- additional costs for numerous components;
- the design takes up a lot of space, which is important for small rooms.
You can solve the first problem by watching a video on how to sheathe walls with drywall using a frame. It is advisable to reduce financial costs by independently performing all the work, without involving craftsmen. But it’s better not to save on materials and use proven “consumables” of well-known foreign or domestic companies.
The installation method on a wooden frame has the same advantages and disadvantages as the previous method. But there is one caveat - the tree tolerates moisture worse, so it is undesirable to use it in the bathroom. But if there is any doubt about how and with what to sheathe wooden walls, then there is no better option than drywall with a wooden frame.
- Frameless installation.
Advantages:
- ease of installation;
- low costs;
- compactness.
Disadvantages:
- lower strength compared to the frame structure;
- the impossibility of installation in the presence of significant defects and irregularities of the wall;
- ceramic tiles cannot be laid on glued hl sheets;
- between the drywall and the wall there is no space for soundproofing material.
You can decide how to sheathe the walls with drywall sheets, taking into account all the above nuances, the size of the room, financial capabilities and operating conditions. In any case, such work is within the power of almost everyone, even a not very experienced repairman.
List of required materials for cladding
After the cladding method is chosen, you can go to the hardware store for the necessary tools and supplies. If the walls need to be sheathed with drywall using a frame (in the presence of significant surface irregularities), then it is worth purchasing:
- ceiling profiles;
- guide profiles;
- direct suspension;
- profile extensions;
- self-tapping screws;
- dowels;
- connectors;
- construction knife;
- metal scissors;
- perforator;
- roulette;
- pencil or marker;
- screwdriver;
- level (preferably laser);
- finishing materials (serpyanka, putty, primer).
List of accessories for adhesive mounting:
- drywall sheets;
- tape for seams;
- putty;
- finishing putty;
- primer;
- glue "Perlfix";
- knife for cutting hl;
- measuring tool;
- pencil.
We should not forget about the tools, without which finishing becomes impossible: spatulas of various sizes, brushes, rollers, sandpaper, containers for kneading putty.
Features of mounting on the frame
Now let's figure out how to properly sheathe a wall with drywall using a metal frame. In the presence of significant defects, it is advisable to use the crate with the help of ceiling and guide profiles.
To begin with, markup is done using a level. At this stage, it is important to correctly find the most protruding point of the wall and determine the size of the entire structure. Marks are transferred to adjacent walls, floor and ceiling and installation begins.
The guide profiles are fastened with dowels in increments of about 1 m, and the ceiling profiles are installed on straight hangers at a distance of up to 150 cm. The structure must be even, and all joints must be well fixed.
After the base is ready, they proceed to the installation of sound insulation and the laying of communications. After that, drywall is cut, screwed onto self-tapping screws and finished. The resulting smooth and even surface is suitable for any decorative coating. Its choice depends on the purpose of the room: tiles are suitable for the bathroom and kitchen, wallpaper for the living room and bedroom, and paint is quite appropriate in the corridor or dining room.
In addition to the metal profile, wooden slats are sometimes used as the basis. How to sheathe walls with plasterboard sheets in this case? The size of the rails should be 50x30 mm, installation is carried out using screws or dowels at a distance of about 10 cm. It is advisable to use such structures on wooden floors or for walls with crumbling plaster.
How to glue drywall on walls?
Glue for the installation of drywall is used only for walls with a height of not more than 3 meters and in the presence of defects ranging in size from 4 to 20 mm. If the size of the irregularities is less than this figure, then only gypsum putty can be used, if more - additional strips of HL in the form of a base or a full-fledged frame.
Now a few words about how to sheathe the walls with drywall using glue yourself. First, it is important to choose a quality glue. For example, Perlfix (Knauf) is suitable. Secondly, you should carefully prepare the surface and observe the temperature regime during installation (at least 10 degrees). And the last thing: do not prepare the glue in advance. It cures within 10 minutes, so it must be stirred immediately before application.
The adhesive mass is applied to the reverse side of the sheet in strips or heaps of medium size. After that, the plate is pressed against the wall and the excess substance that has come out is removed. Before the glue completely hardens, you can correct the position of the sheet, if necessary.
As a result of all the above facts, the following conclusion can be drawn: the choice of installation method depends very much on the quality of the initial surface. Therefore, irregularities must be carefully measured and only then drafted a future design. The question arises, is it possible to install drywall on the frame without removing the old finish (for example, wallpaper)?
Drywall sheets allow you to level the walls, skillfully hiding any irregularities, create a variety of protrusions and recesses, etc. The material is characterized by sufficient strength, it is easy to process and use, you can install such sheets without any problems.
Having understood the basic principles, you can independently align the walls of your house or, for example, make a new partition. It is only necessary to decide on the required form of the finished result and choose the optimal method for fixing the sheets.
There are two main methods of fastening drywall sheets, namely:
- installation on a pre-built frame;
- frameless fastening on the adhesive composition.
In some situations, for best results, the above methods are used in combination.
The base is assembled from a special plasterboard profile. At the end, it remains only to screw the sheets to the frame with screws and perform the required finishing work. The disadvantage of the frame technology is that the total thickness of the finished skin will be more than 4-5 cm, i.e. the useful area of the room will significantly decrease.
Choose the appropriate fastening method. I want to fix the sheets as securely as possible - make a frame. It is important to keep the existing square - use the glue-based method.
Preparing walls for plasterboarding
Sheathing walls with drywall requires several preparatory steps.
It is highly recommended to get rid of the old wall covering before attaching the frame or gluing the sheets. Carefully remove it to the ground. Additionally, dismantling the old finish will free up a few centimeters that can be used for new skin, saving as much free space as possible.
This operation is not mandatory, but experts strongly recommend it. Additionally, the surface is treated with an antiseptic preparation.
The third stage is preliminary marking. To begin with, it will be enough to mark the boundaries above the floor and under the ceiling, from which the plasterboard walls will begin and end. Traditionally, a distance of 50 mm is postponed.
Frame Construction Guide
The first stage is the preparation of materials. A galvanized profile is used to assemble the frame for drywall. On the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls, the so-called. UD profile. Dowels are used to fix such profiles.
The second stage is the installation of jumpers. After the starting profiles are fixed, proceed with the installation of vertical jumpers. For this, the so-called. CD profile. It is on him that the drywall will rely. The edges of the profile should “look” at the wall, with the wide side into the room. Fasten with self-tapping screws designed specifically for galvanized profiles.
Fasten the first main profile near the side wall. Fasten the following in increments of 60 cm. In this case, the distance must be set aside from the center of the installed profiles, and not from their edges. Under the next wall, the CD profile must also be fixed closely, regardless of the distance between it and the previous profile.
The third stage is strengthening the fasteners. In order to fix the profiles more reliably, it is strongly recommended to use perforated hangers. These products have the form of galvanized strips with perforated ends. Such clamps need to be shaped like the letter "P" and fixed with their middles to the wall, placing them under each profile installed vertically. At the edges of the element there are "ears". Attach them to your profile. Check the evenness of the placement of all elements using a level and, if necessary, make adjustments.
If the height of the wall exceeds the length of one sheet of drywall (standard 2.5 m), add the missing piece of material from below or above. At the joints, install jumpers from the CD profile you already know.
Installation of sheets and completion of work
The frame is ready, and you can safely proceed to the main work. It is also performed in several stages and requires maximum care and responsibility from the master.
The first stage is the installation of drywall sheets. The material, as already noted, is attached to the main profiles. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws 3.5 cm long, made of hardened metal. It is more convenient, better and faster than most self-tapping screws to be screwed in with an electric screwdriver. Tighten until the fastener heads are flush with the drywall. Fasteners are twisted in increments of 100-150 mm in the center of the sheet and along its perimeter. Usually, the sheets initially have a center line, which makes installation easier.
The second step is filling in the gaps. In case one sheet of material is not enough to fill all the available space, take a new sheet and cut pieces of the required size from it. Drywall is remarkably cut with an ordinary construction knife. It is enough to simply cut the paper of the drywall sheet along the cut line and gently break the element, and then cut the paper on the reverse side in the same way. Fix the rest and proceed to the final finish.
The third stage is the finishing of the plasterboard structure. First you need to seal the seams. The sealing is carried out using a special self-adhesive mesh. The laid mesh must be puttied. Usually enough starting putty. It will allow you to get the most even surface.
To carry out further work, you need to decide what material will be used as a topcoat. For example, in the case of laying tiles or other opaque thick material, you should simply putty the joints of adjacent sheets, wait until the putty dries and move on to the finish lining. Putty is applied to drywall with a layer of about 1.5-2 mm, there is no need for a thicker coating.
Sand the surface with a sandpaper, and then treat the walls with a primer. If further painting is planned, the surface should be as smooth and even as possible. If there are irregularities, apply a new layer of putty, sand it and check the surface for irregularities. Repeat the above procedures if necessary.
If drywall walls are already made in a small room, arranging the frame can become an unaffordable luxury, because. because of it, the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room is reduced by several square meters. In such a situation, the best option is to attach the sheets to the base with glue.
The first step is surface preparation. It is highly recommended to level the surface. Any kind of holes, bulges and similar defects will impair the adhesion of the sheets to the base. Use putty for leveling. After the putty has dried, prime the base.
Cut the drywall into sheets of the desired size. Above the floor and under the ceiling, leave gaps about 5 cm wide.
The third stage is the preparation of mounting holes. Drill holes in the wall to place the dowels. Fasteners must be screwed in so that their caps form a single plane with the base.
The fourth stage is the preparation of the adhesive solution. Glue is prepared from a dry mixture specially designed for such work and clean water. Read the manufacturer's instructions. It contains a recipe for your particular glue, because. for different mixtures, the procedure for preparing the solution may vary. The consistency of the finished mixture will resemble a paste. The glue dries very quickly, so it is strongly recommended to prepare it in small portions and immediately before starting work. The specific drying time is also indicated in the instructions.
The fifth stage is gluing sheets. Before attaching the sheets, the base must be thoroughly cleaned of any dirt and dust, because. dirt will reduce adhesion to the adhesive. Apply adhesive to the back of the sheets. Along the center line and edges of the sheet, the glue is applied in longitudinal strips, along the rest of the plane - in heaps. Such heaps should be made at most every 25-30 cm. It is not recommended to level the heaps into a continuous layer, because. this will lead to a significant increase in the consumption of the solution, and will also not allow the entire sheet area to be properly docked to the wall.
Place the drywall on the subfloor and press evenly. If necessary, you can compact the fixation with a rubber mallet. In this case, you first need to apply a wooden block to the sheet and knock on it with a hammer, otherwise you can punch holes in the coating.
Wait for the glue to harden. Information about the drying time must be given in the instructions. Please read this manual carefully before starting work and keep it until completion. Only after the glue has completely dried can you proceed to the next steps.
In this case, the already familiar self-adhesive tape is also used. Glue the tape to the seams and putty the joints so that they are at the same level with the main surface. Alignment is carried out using the starting putty.
Finishing putty is used only when necessary, for example, when drywall is being prepared for painting. In the end, it remains only to finish the walls with the selected coating.
Thus, drywall allows you to get perfectly smooth and even walls without wasting time and money. Choose the method of fixing the sheets that is best for your case and proceed with the installation. Follow the instructions and do not forget the recommendations received.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself wall sheathing with drywall
October 28, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)
As statistics show, self-finishing of housing is most often carried out using drywall on the walls. However, not all home masters are familiar with the nuances of installing dry plaster, which often leads to various negative consequences. Therefore, in this article, I decided to tell you in detail how to properly cover the walls with drywall.
Plasterboard wall cladding options
First of all, I note that there are two technologies for wall cladding with drywall:
| Sheathing technology | Peculiarities |
| frame | It consists in mounting on the walls of the frame, which is subsequently sheathed with drywall. The frame allows you to correct any unevenness of the walls, as well as hide communications or place insulation between the walls and the sheathing. |
| Frameless | This technology of plasterboard wall cladding is applicable if their surface does not have serious irregularities, and there is no need to insulate the walls or hide communications under the cladding. The essence of this method is to glue the GKL directly to the wall using a special glue. This significantly reduces the wastage of space in the room. |
Frame technology
Sheathing the walls of the GKL frame method is carried out in several steps:
Below we will consider each stage in detail.
Preparation of materials
Before sheathing the GKL walls, you need to prepare the following materials:
- drywall itself - for walls it is desirable that it has a thickness of 12.5 mm. If the humidity level is increased in the room, for example, in the bathroom, moisture-resistant drywall should be used;
- frame mounting materials - guides and main profiles, as well as brackets, hangers and crosses (crabs). To fasten all the elements of the frame, you will need special screws;
- acrylic;
- putty for walls - is selected depending on the type of room, as well as the type of finish. You can learn more about the choice of putty from other articles on our portal.
Now you can proceed to further work.
Markup execution
Marking is one of the most important stages of sheathing, since it depends on how smooth the walls will be. The instruction for its implementation looks like this:
- First of all, you need to apply markings on the ceiling. To do this, step back from the wall a distance equal to the thickness of the frame, and draw points near two opposite adjacent walls.
If you do not plan to lay insulation inside the frame and place communications behind it, the thickness of the frame should be kept to a minimum - about 4 cm. This is the thickness of the profile and brackets;
- further, such points must be designated for all walls that will be sheathed with plasterboard;
- all points on the ceiling must be connected to each other with lines using a masking cord. To connect two points, pull a cord between them, then pull it down like a bowstring and release it. As a result, the cord will hit the ceiling and leave a trail in the form of a straight line;
- when all the lines are drawn, you need to make sure that the angle between them is 90 degrees. Otherwise, they need to be corrected;
- then the resulting lines should be transferred to the floor. To do this, you can use plumb lines or draw horizontal lines on adjacent walls with your own hands using a building level;
- now on the wall you need to mark the location of the PP profiles. To do this, step back from the corner about 1 cm and draw a vertical line on the wall from the ceiling to the floor. All subsequent lines should be in 60 cm increments;
- then on the resulting lines it is necessary to designate the location of the brackets. The step between them should be 50 cm;
According to this scheme, it is necessary to mark all the walls where the plasterboard sheathing is planned.
Frame installation
Now you can start assembling the frame. It is necessary to take this work very responsibly, since it depends on the frame how strong the plasterboard sheathing will turn out, rigid and durable.
The work is carried out in the following sequence:
- start assembling the frame by installing rails on the ceiling and floor. First you need to cut the profiles along the length with scissors for metal;
To fix the guides, as a rule, dowel nails are used. If the house is wooden, for example, in the country, you can use self-tapping screws; - then you need to install brackets on the wall according to the markings. Their installation is also carried out with the help of dowel-nails or self-tapping screws;
- then you can proceed with the installation of PP profiles, starting from the corner. I must say that there are several options for arranging the corners of the frame. The simplest is shown in the diagram above.
Before fixing the profiles in the brackets with self-tapping screws, be sure to apply a level and make sure they are even;
- to increase the strength of the frame, it is necessary to connect all the racks with crossbars, which are fastened with crosses. True, you can do without crosses by cutting the PP profile and bending the sides as in the photo above.
The step between the jumpers should be 50 cm, and they should be placed in a checkerboard pattern.
The walls of a frame house can be sheathed with drywall without a frame, i.e. attach the sheets directly to the supporting frame.
According to this principle, a frame is installed on all walls.
Drywall installation
So, we got acquainted with the assembly of the frame, now we will consider how to sheathe it. Before proceeding with this operation, it is advisable to immediately cut the drywall sheets.
To cut the GCR into two parts, you must perform the following steps:
- draw a cut line on a sheet of drywall with a pencil and a rule or a long ruler;
- then cut the cardboard along the marked line;
- then break the sheet and fold it:
- then cut the cardboard from the back along the bend line;
- it is advisable to immediately process the end face with a special planer for drywall.
Cut sheets of drywall so that their joints fall on the profile. Otherwise, cracks may form at the joints.
If you need to cut a curved drywall part, you can use a jigsaw for this purpose. It is easiest to make round holes for sockets or switches with an electric drill with a special crown. True, it is more convenient to engage in this operation after sheathing the frame.
Now we sheathe the walls with drywall. Sheets are fastened with special self-tapping screws, which are screwed in in increments of 25 cm. Be sure to drown the hats so that they do not interfere with further wall decoration.
It is difficult to attach the sheets to the frame alone, as they are large and quite heavy. Therefore, it is advisable to involve an assistant in this work, especially if you are doing this operation for the first time.
Rough finish
After the completion of the frame sheathing, a rough finish of the plasterboard walls is performed, i.e. they are puttying. To do this, you must perform the following steps:
- start work by preparing the joints of the sheets. First of all, cut a 5 mm chamfer from smooth edges (if they were not processed by a planer after cutting);
- then stick a self-adhesive sickle tape on the joints;
- now the surface of the walls needs to be primed. It is more convenient to perform this procedure with a paint roller with a pallet.
Try to apply the primer in a thin even layer. For processing hard-to-reach places, you can use a paint brush. Be sure to apply a second coat of primer after the first has dried; - then you need to putty the joints of the sheets and the caps of the self-tapping screws with a starting putty. To perform this procedure, you will need a narrow or small;
- when the composition hardens, you need to cover the entire surface of the walls with a starting putty. This operation should be performed with a wide spatula, trying to apply the putty as accurately and evenly as possible..
To level the inner corners, use a special corner trowel. Perforated corners are glued to the outer corners, as shown in the photo above. They not only make the corners even, but also protect them from chipping.
You can learn more about how to putty walls on your own from other articles on our portal dedicated to this topic;
- after the surface has hardened, sand the putty with a jointer with P80 - P120 abrasive to remove the most serious surface flaws;
- then the surface of the walls must be wiped or vacuumed to remove dust, and then primed again;
- if the walls are pasted over with wallpaper, then they do not need further finishing. If you plan to paint them, then you need to apply a thin layer of finishing putty to eliminate minor flaws on the surface. Polymer putty is best suited for these purposes, although its price is slightly higher than gypsum;
- after hardening of the finishing layer, the surface must be carefully sanded with a fine mesh P150. To control the quality of grinding, the work must be done in bright light.
This completes the drywall finishing process.
Frameless drywall installation
Now let's look at how the walls are covered with drywall without crates. This work also includes several stages:
Preparation of materials
To sheathe a wall with drywall in a frameless way, you need to prepare:
- drywall itself - the same sheets are used as for frame mounting;
- drywall glue, for example, Knauf Perflix is suitable;
- deep penetration primer.
You can replace drywall glue with a regular starting putty.
Wall surface preparation
If the frame sheathing method does not require the preparation of walls, then before sheathing the room with drywall in a frameless way, special attention must be paid to this procedure. The work is carried out as follows:
- First you need to remove the old finishing coating. If the walls are finished with ceramic tiles, it should simply be knocked down with a chisel and a perforator.
If the walls are covered with wallpaper, they must first be moistened, then tucked with a spatula and torn off; - then walls must be wiped with a damp cloth to remove residues of wallpaper paste and other contaminants;
- further, the walls must be primed with a deep penetration primer according to the scheme described above.
This completes the wall preparation process.
Gluing drywall
Finishing the room with drywall is carried out in the following sequence:
- first, cut the plasterboard, so that in the future you do not waste time cutting them;
- before sheathing the walls, drywall sheets should be primed from the back;
- then prepare the adhesive solution according to the instructions on the package;
- then the glue is applied to the drywall in a dotted way (with bloopers), as shown in the photo above, using a trowel or spatula;
- now you need to attach a sheet of drywall to the wall and level it. So that deflections do not occur during the alignment process, you can press down the sheet with a rule or a long, even board. According to this principle, all walls are pasted over with GKL sheets.
After pasting the walls with drywall, it is necessary to perform a rough finish. This procedure is carried out according to the scheme described above.
Conclusion
Plasterboard wall cladding can be done in several ways. The choice of technology depends on the flaws of the walls. But, regardless of the method of finishing, in the process of work, it is necessary to strictly observe a certain procedure.
I recommend that you additionally watch the video in this article, which clearly shows the process of installing drywall. If any points are unclear to you, leave your questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.
October 28, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!
How to sheathe a wall with drywall? What tool and method of sheathing to choose? We will try to briefly talk about this and other things in the article, so that even a beginner has no doubts that he can do it with his own hands.
First you need to inspect the scope of work, assess the scale and select the necessary installation method.
As you know, the walls of private houses and apartments are made of reinforced concrete, brick and wood. Drywall can be glued to any of these surfaces or a frame can be installed. The main criteria that affect the method of installation are the volume of the room and the curvature of the walls. Plasterboard sheathing on the frame is considered the most optimal, but here the disadvantages should also be taken into account - the area of \u200b\u200bthe room with the frame installed will decrease significantly (the total thickness of the sheathing will be more than 5 cm). Therefore, if you plan to carry out repairs in a small room, a frameless adhesive mount may be the best option. If the defects and curvature of the walls do not exceed 20 mm, you can safely choose it, i.e. glue hl on gypsum glue.
If we have more or less figured out the methods of fastening, then the question remains open with the tool.
Tool for the job
For sheathing surfaces using frame technology, you will need:
- The material itself is drywall sheets.
- Pencil, knife for cutting hl sheets, blades.
- Roulette, building level, laser is better
- Metal shears
- Dowels 6x40, 6x60.
- Galvanized profiles CD, UD.
- Perforated hangers (CD bracket)
- Bulgarian, drill, screwdriver.
- Self-tapping screws for metal
- Prosekatel, or self-tapping screws (bugs) for attaching profiles to each other
- Edge planer
- Spatula and bucket, gypsum glue (if we glue hl)
- Everything for finishing seams
Surface preparation
Do-it-yourself wall cladding with drywall involves not only installation, but also preparation. Before sheathing the surface, you need to perform several preparatory work:
- Remove old trim. Before proceeding with the decoration, you need to remove all previous layers from the walls to the base.
- Treat the walls. This procedure is not considered mandatory. However, experts recommend priming the walls and treating them with a special antiseptic.
- Make a preliminary markup. Mark the boundaries above the floor and below the ceiling where the slabs will begin and end. Usually a distance of 5 cm is delayed.
Ways of fastening hl: advantages and disadvantages
As mentioned earlier, there are only two ways to sheathe walls with drywall: by gluing and mounting plates on a metal or wooden frame. For a better understanding of which method is better to choose, consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.
Wireframe method
Of the advantages of installation on a galvanized frame, it should be noted: mechanical strength and reliability of the finished structure, the ability to install soundproof material, the installation of the material even on the most uneven surface. In addition, the structure mounted on the frame can withstand the heavy weight of the tile. Therefore, this option can be used in the kitchen or in the bathroom.
The method of installation on a wooden frame has the same advantages as the method of installing HL on a metal frame. The only thing worth considering is that the tree does not tolerate moisture well, so this installation method is not suitable for rooms with high humidity.
The disadvantages of the frame mounting method include additional financial costs for the necessary fasteners and installation complexity.
Frameless method
Wall cladding in a frameless way is a little easier. It will not take away the useful centimeters of your room and will not force you to pay a tidy sum for repairs, but it will be less durable compared to frame technology. The disadvantages of this method include the impossibility of laying soundproofing material.
Technology of mounting sheets on a galvanized profile
To assemble the frame, we take a galvanized profile. On the floor, ceiling we start up the UD profile, which we fix with the help of dowels 6x40. After fixing the starting profiles, we proceed to the installation of vertical jumpers (CD-profile). The edges of the profile should face the wall, the wide side should face the room.
The profile is cut with scissors according to the metar or grinder to the desired size.
We fix the profile with self-tapping screws specially designed for galvanized profiles. We fix the first main profile near the side wall, the next ones are already in increments of 60 cm. We set aside the distance from the center of the profiles, and not from their edges. Under the next surface, we fix the profile closely, regardless of the distance between this and the previous profile.
To enhance fixation, it is recommended to use perforated hangers. Products externally look like galvanized strips with perforated ends. We give these clamps the shape of the letter "P" and fix them in the middle to the wall under each vertical profile. On the edges of perforated suspensions there are so-called "ears". We fasten them to the profile and check the evenness of all elements with a building level.
Sound and heat insulating material is laid between the wall and the plasterboard. Special mineral wool for hl. After that, it is desirable to put a layer of vapor barrier film.
If the height of the wall exceeds the height of the drywall sheet, you can add the missing part of the material from above or below by installing jumpers from the CD profile.
How to carry out sheathing on a prepared frame
Plasterboard sheets are fixed to the main profiles. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws 3.5 cm long. For quick and easy work, it is best to use an electric screwdriver. We twist the screws until their hats are “drowned”. Fasteners are twisted at a distance, within 150 mm in the center of the hl and around the perimeter. If one sheet is not enough, take a new sheet and cut pieces of the desired size from it.
Sealing GKL
Now you can start finishing. The technology is described in detail in the article Using a special self-adhesive sickle tape, we seal the seams. We putty the tape with a special fugen putty from knauf. For the final touch, it is worth deciding what material will be used for the finish coat. For example, if a tile or other fairly dense material is to be laid, then you can simply cover the seams and start laying the tiles. If wallpaper is glued to the surface or simply painted, then we smear the seams, holes from self-tapping screws several times.
We sand the surface with a sandpaper and treat it with a primer. If in the future the sheets will be painted, the surface should be perfectly flat.
Frameless sheet mounting technology
The first step is priming the surface. We prime, we wait for complete drying.
The next step is to prepare the adhesive solution. Pour Perflix into clean water, mix, achieve the desired density of the solution. It is advisable to knead thicker so that it does not drain along with drywall. I will warn you right away that the glue dries quickly, so you need to work with it quickly.
A sheet of drywall is easily cut with a knife, after which it breaks off. The edges remain torn, here we need a drywall planer.
Apply glue only on the rear surface of the sheet, cleaned of dust and debris. In the center and edges of the GL, the glue is applied with buns of the thickness we need. They are made at a distance of 25 cm. If you want to glue a whole sheet, then you can apply buns to the wall.
We apply the plasterboard sheet to the base and press it evenly. For better fixation, you can use a rubber mallet. We apply a block of wood to the sheet and knock on it with a hammer. It is impossible to knock with a rubber hammer on the hl itself, otherwise holes in the material can be punched.
Only after the glue has completely dried can you start sealing the seams. The seams are sealed in the same way as when mounting on a profile.
Finally
Drywall sheathing will not give you much trouble if all steps are performed sequentially.
- It is necessary to prepare the walls (clean them from the old coating, dust, dirt, treat with a primer).
- Choose the method of fixing the material (frame, frameless).
- Get the necessary supplies.
- Fix drywall sheets.
- Seal the seams with a special tape, putty, treat the uneven surface with sandpaper and prime.
