Ready-made fertilizers for rhododendrons. Potential Growing Problems

So that the rhododendron does not give strength to the seeds, all faded inflorescences must be removed. This work does not tolerate fuss. And almost all gardeners love her very much. Sit on a bench and carefully, slowly remove the inflorescences. This can be done with your hands, twisting the inflorescence at its base, you can use scissors, only the scissors should have sharp ends. The most important thing is not to damage the kidneys, which usually protrude quite actively. These are future escapes.

I never throw the removed inflorescences to the side, but I throw the rhododendron "under my feet", let them rot, create mulch.

Mulch for rhododendrons

Mulch generally means a lot to rhododendron, as it lightens the ground, acidifies it, and retains moisture. Where there are no harsh winters, the mulch can not even be changed, it is natural. But in reality, after our northern winter, it’s better to change it anyway.

Since it may contain unwanted mold, some sores. Inflorescences and withered flowers can be safely thrown into the mulch, but dried and fallen leaves are best removed. The fact is that rhododendron does not change leaves like other trees, its leaves should last about 3 years. If the leaves fall often, then it means that they are not just old, but sick. Therefore, they must be collected and burned.

How to water a rhododendron

In a typical Russian summer, it is enough to water abundantly once a week. Under big bush feel free to pour 50 liters each. Naturally, with a break, so that the water is absorbed.

But most importantly, do not forget about air humidification. I already wrote that water for irrigation should not be from a well.

But anything can happen - a dry summer, and there is not a drop in the barrel, or the barrel is far away, it is hard to water. Therefore, if you have to water from a well, pour water into a watering can, and add something sour to it.

Can vinegar 2 tbsp. spoons for 10 liters of water. Or citric acid - 3-4 gr. for 10 liters of water

Easiest to use colloidal sulfur.

Like this a package of 40 g should be scattered once or twice a year in a circle near the trunk for a small rhododendron, if the rhododendron is about a meter high and above, then two packs are needed. This is enough to acidify the soil.

There is also advice that I read on the web garden forum, but I have never tried to do this, although experts say that this is the best option.

"It is better to acidify the soil with sulfuric acid (electrolyte for car batteries) A ​​teaspoon of electrolyte per 10 liters (bucket) of water and evenly pour the soil around the rhododendrons. To reduce water hardness when watering, I also add sulfuric acid at the same dose

It seems to me that fiddling with sulfuric acid is not very safe, and it is much easier and safer to use colloidal sulfur. I have used it several times and have had good results.

To provide good growth, beautiful flowering and resistance of rhododendron to adverse external factors(pests, diseases) it is required to carry out mandatory feeding of the plant. For this, it is recommended to use organic and mineral complexes, as well as various growth stimulants. Uncontrolled use of fertilizers will only harm the plant, so you need to follow the basic rules.

Fertilization Rules

There are a number of rules for fertilizing rhododendron (azalea) that must be followed:

1. 1. Young shrubs should be fed only with products in the form of liquid solutions. They are better absorbed by the root system and absorbed by the plant.
2. 2. Do not use for azaleas growing in Russia, those compositions that are imported in granules. This is due to the fact that they are intended for other climatic conditions (for example, for those areas where there are much more hot days in spring and summer than in Russia). If you use such products, then at the end of August, the green mass may again begin to grow. Because of this, the branches simply do not have time to prepare for the onset of frost. As a result, the shrub will freeze.
3. 3. Cannot be used for top dressing wood ash. It is not applied to the soil around the rhododendron, because because of this product, the level of soil acidity decreases. This can lead to various diseases in the azalea. In most cases, with such an error, chlorosis develops, which is difficult to cope with. You can determine the presence of the disease by the appearance of yellowish streaks around the veins of the foliage.
4. 4. It is not recommended to use too much fertilizer containing phosphorus. They will interfere with the absorption of iron by the root system, which is contained in the soil. Deficiency of this substance also leads to the development of chlorosis. This is especially true for young shoots.

In the first year, when the plant is just being formed, it is imperative to fertilize the shrub. Otherwise, due to a deficiency of minerals, the leaves will turn pale and fall off.

Azaleas need to be fertilized 3 times. The first time to carry out the procedure should be after winter. Azofoska is required to be applied to the soil around the trunk. This is a mineral fertilizer of a granular type. It contains nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. The product is considered universal, since it contains all the components necessary for the plant in spring. Nitrogen is required to maintain and accelerate the growth of green mass and root system. Phosphorus and potassium influence the development of inflorescences and roots.

Azofoska has the following features:

• not washed out of the soil for a long time;
• contributes to the quality nutrition of the azalea, as long time located near the roots of the flower.

The composition can be added to any type of soil. It should only be used in spring period when the azalea is still in the process of bud formation. You need to act exactly according to the instructions for the drug. Do not exceed the dosage so as not to provoke the appearance of a burn of the root system.

bush in spring time can be fertilized with Rodo and Azalea Azet. It contains fungal cultures and special microorganisms. It only takes half a cup of this granular product to fertilize one plant. This volume is enough to feed the flower for the next few months. The substance must be applied to the soil when the bud is just blooming.

The next period when it is recommended to add fertilizer to the soil is the end of May or the beginning of June. At this time, the plant is already flowering. The compositions used should contribute to the laying of flower buds on the bush. They will be required for flowering next year.

1. 1. Mix 2 tbsp. l. ammonium sulphate with a spoonful of potassium salt and superphosphate. This amount is enough to process 1 square. m plot.
2. 2. Use the ready-made drug Kemira universal or its analogues. The composition is suitable for perennial flowering shrubs. The product is supposed to be applied under the plant after watering has been carried out.
3. 3. Use organic fertilizers. For feeding rhododendrons, compositions made on the basis of sour peat of a riding type are suitable. With manure, you need to work very carefully. It must be diluted (1 kg of the product is diluted with 20 liters of water), and then wait 3 days until the product is infused. Only after this fertilizer can be added to the soil.
4. 4. Dilute horn meal with water. It contains a large number of phosphorus, and the elements will decompose for several months.

The third dressing after winter is done at the end of July. During its implementation, nitrogen-containing products should not be used, otherwise the shoots will begin to grow again. It is required to add a couple of spoons of compounds that include phosphorus to the soil, add a spoonful of potassium salt. Thanks to this, new shoots that have managed to form during the season will become stronger and more resistant to frost.

After the last fertilization, it is required to mulch the place around the trunk of the shrub. To do this, you need to use rotted pine needles.

Mineral complexes

Both mineral and organic fertilizers are actively used to feed azaleas. The following minerals are commonly used:

1. 1. Iron chelate. It is used on clay-type soils so that azalea leaves do not turn yellow.
2. 2. Nitrogen-containing compositions. They need to be applied to the ground in the spring to stimulate growth.
3. 3. Potassium sulphate, magnesium and ammonium. These types of fertilizers are great for rhododendron, as they affect the level of soil acidity in favor of reducing the indicator.
4. 4. Phosphorus fats. Contribute to the acceleration of metabolic reactions of the plant.

Mineral fertilizer is a suspension in concentrated form. A minimum volume of product is required to enter the soil. At the same time, the earth is maximally saturated with useful substances.

Also for fertilizing rhododendrons use:

• potassium sulphate, calcium, magnesium and ammonium;
• potassium nitrate;
• potassium phosphate;
• superphosphate.

One of the most effective options fertilizing azalea is considered to be the use of a potassium-phosphorus solution of a buffer type. It contains substances that help maintain the optimal level of soil acidity for rhododendrons. When preparing a mixture for 10 liters of liquid, it is required to add 8 g of potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate.

If fertilized various varieties azaleas located in one place, then the mineral solution must be replaced with dry fats. To prepare them, you need to mix 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, and then add 40 g of ammonium sulfate. For one shrub up to 1 m high, 80 g of such a composition will be needed. The mixture must be spread over the ground in the spring, as soon as the snow melts. The tuk will penetrate into the soil when watering.

organic matter

Organic fertilizers are the cheapest and most available for feeding shrubs. Popular products that are used to process azalea are:

1. 1. Manure. It cannot be used in fresh, it is necessary to breed. To 1 part of the liquid, add 15 parts of manure, mix thoroughly. After that, it is necessary to wait a few days until microbiological processes take place in the mixture. At this time, air bubbles will appear on the surface of the future fertilizer.
2. 2. Slurry. There are no exact proportions. During the preparation of the composition, it is necessary to focus on the shade of the liquid. The suspension should acquire a light brownish color.
3. 3. Semi-rotted manure. Such a composition should not be diluted in water. In the spring, it is simply distributed over the surface of the earth around the bush. The layer thickness must be at least 5 cm.
4. 4. Slurry and superphosphate. The composition includes both organic and mineral fertilizer. The combination of substances is great for azalea. Thanks to him, the concentration of phosphorus in the soil increases, which is required for the full development of the shrub. 4 kg of superphosphate is added to 100 liters of slurry.

When using slurry, it is necessary to monitor the level of soil acidity. If the color of the foliage begins to change (evergreen shrubs can shed their leaves), then urgent action is required to apply acidic fertilizers. As for the manure itself, bird, cow, pig, and horse droppings can be used for fertilizer.

Among organic fertilizers the most valuable are horn waste. This applies to chips and flour. They contain large amounts of phosphorus and nitrogen. The decomposition period of these products is quite long, so that the amount of formulations applied will be minimal.

Azaleas can be fertilized with vinegar. This will be needed if ordinary water from a well is used to water the bushes. It needs to be softened up a bit. This is what vinegar is used for. It will take only 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of liquid. Vinegar can be substituted citric acid. In this case, 4 g of the substance will be needed for 10 liters of water. Sometimes shrubs are treated with urea.

Growth and flowering stimulants

Many preparations have been developed that are used to stimulate the growth and flowering of azalea. The most effective of them are:

1. 1. Zircon. Helps the shrub to adapt faster, stimulates the beginning of flowering, promotes the growth of the root system. Sold in ampoules. Add 2 drops of liquid to a watering can with water for irrigation. An overdose should not be allowed. Zircon is also used for spraying azaleas. The procedure is carried out once every 4 days.
2. 2. Appin. This is an anti-session remedy that is perfect for rhododendron. Its difference from Zircon is that the drug is used only for spraying, and once every 2 weeks. If you use the remedy more often, then this will not give any accelerated effect. It is considered no less useful than the previous substance. Sold in ampoules that can not be kept in the light. Spraying an azalea during flowering is prohibited.
3. 3. HB-101. A popular remedy that helps azaleas survive any stress. The advantage is the economy of the product. Only 1 drop of the substance is added to the watering can. It is allowed to use both for watering and for irrigation.
4. 4. Ecogel-antistress. Available in bottles. Suitable for both watering and spraying through a spray bottle. It is considered more effective than Epin.
5. 5. Ferovit. This azalea food contains iron chelate. Usually used when chlorosis develops on a shrub. Helps to increase green mass, improves appearance. Used for both watering and spraying. The latter is considered more efficient.
6. 6. Emerald. It is usually used when azalea leaves turn brown, faded. Helps to increase green mass.
7. 7. Fitosporin-M. Prevents root rot various diseases. You will need 10 drops of the product per cup of water.

Feeding rhododendron shrubs is necessary step plant care. It is especially needed in the spring after the snow melts. You can use both organic and mineral fertilizers. They stimulate the growth of green mass, accelerate the growth of the bush. Top dressing has a beneficial effect on flowering.

Landing. Everyone who is engaged or wants to grow rhododendrons, the question arises, when is the best time to transplant rhododendrons, how to feed them, what kind of care do they require? More than 20 years of experience in the cultivation of rhododendrons in the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University. P. Stuchki showed that the most right time for transplanting rhododendrons in our republic - spring (April - the first half of May) and autumn (September-November), when the growth has finished and the young shoots have strengthened. If necessary, rhododendrons can be planted at any other time of the year, excluding periods of flowering and immediately after flowering, when intensive shoot growth begins. Such a wide range of rhododendron transplant times is due to the compactness of their root system and the density of the root ball. In rhododendrons, unlike others ornamental trees and shrubs, it is practically not damaged during transplantation root system, the connection between the roots of plants and the substrate is not lost.

Thus, if the landing site is chosen and prepared correctly, then the transplanted rhododendrons in the new place grow just as well as in the old one. In long-term plantings, only healthy plants with a well-developed compact root system should be planted. In group plantings, the distance between plants (flowering) should be such that their crowns barely touch.

Already before purchasing rhododendrons, you need to know what place in the garden will be reserved for their planting, and it is best to be guided by the landscaping project developed by specialists. The place for planting rhododendrons should be protected from the prevailing winds and from the direct burning rays of the sun, the soil should be prepared accordingly.

Before planting, rhododendrons should be watered abundantly. Well-watered rhododendrons tolerate transportation and transplanting better. If the root balls of the rhododendrons to be transplanted have dried up, they should be immersed in water for several hours so that they are well saturated with water.

Before planting rhododendrons, the soil should be carefully prepared. In nurseries or if rhododendrons are planted in large groups, the soil is prepared over the entire area. If one or more specimens are planted, then for each plant or each small group prepare landing pit required size, i.e., about twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of rhododendrons. When planting rhododendrons near big trees the pit should be insulated with slate, plastic, tin or two layers of roofing material. Sour sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, deciduous soil, heather soil, pine needles and other organic materials are poured into the dug hole. It is not necessary to have all of the above components; you can get by with several or even one material, such as peat. Organic materials fill 1/2 of the pit, and the rest of the volume - mineral soil, dug in the preparation of the pit. Complete mineral fertilizer is added to these components at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m 3 of the substrate. Then all the components in the pit are thoroughly mixed. Mixing can also be carried out outside the pit, and the pit can be filled with a completely prepared substrate. The landing site should be prepared in advance, in the fall, and rhododendrons should be planted in the spring.

Rice. fifteen.Planting rhododendrons: 1 - rhododendron planted too small; 2 - rhododendron planted too deep; 3 - Properly planted rhododendron.

Planting rhododendrons is carried out as follows. In the prepared pit, they dig a cell corresponding to the size of the root ball of the rhododendron, and plant the plant in this cell. The space around the root ball is filled with a substrate, which is slightly compacted so that there is no void left, and the root ball is covered on top thin layer(no more than 5 cm) of the substrate. In a new place, rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery (Fig. 15). After transplanting, rhododendrons are watered abundantly. On rainy days, when the soil is wet and the relative humidity reaches 100%, watering is not required. The amount of water for irrigation depends on the size of the plants. If the plants have a height of 30-40 cm, at least 5 liters of water are needed for irrigation after transplantation, and if the plants reach a height of 50-100 cm, at least 10 liters of water are required. After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of at least 20 cm. To prevent water from spreading during irrigation, a small mulch roller is made around the planted plant. Mulching is carried out immediately after watering. Sphagnum peat, pine needles, leaves, especially oak, and other organic materials can be used as mulch, which, after decomposition, increase the amount of humus and increase the acidity of the soil.

If rhododendrons planted in a permanent place have a lot of flower buds, some of them should be broken off so that plants that have not yet fully rooted do not spend much-needed nutrients and moisture on flowering. A few flower buds can be left, so that when flowering you can appreciate the beauty of the planted plant.

With solitary plantings, when rhododendrons are planted on the lawn one at a time, so that the wind does not shake the plants that have not yet taken root, it is necessary to stick a stake into the soil, tilted against the direction of the prevailing winds, and tie a bush to it (Fig. 16). When the plant takes root, the stake is removed.

At proper care rhododendrons bloom and bear fruit profusely every year. During flowering and seed formation, plants consume a lot of nutrients. Anyone who grows rhododendrons notices the periodicity in their flowering: one year rhododendrons bloom very profusely, and the next year less. To eliminate such periodicity, if seeds are not needed, faded inflorescences are broken out immediately after flowering. In this case, the reserve substances available in the plant are used to form new shoots and lay flower buds, which ensures abundant flowering next year. To break out a faded inflorescence, it is slightly bent down, holding it large and index fingers. At the same time, the fragile axis of the inflorescence breaks easily at the base. In this way, faded inflorescences are removed much faster than with a knife or scissors. This work should be carried out carefully and carefully so as not to break off the young, fragile shoots at the base of the inflorescences. Removing faded inflorescences contributes to the formation of more lush bush, since after this operation, at least 2-3 new shoots are formed on the bush. If the faded inflorescences are not removed, but left to obtain seeds, then, as a rule, only one shoot is formed at the base of the inflorescence, and that without a flower bud.

top dressing. In order for rhododendrons to bloom profusely and beautifully every year, grow well, develop normally, be healthy and not damaged by pests, they must be properly fertilized. Top dressing is necessary not only for young plants, but also for old flowering specimens. For a long time, even experts were of the opinion that rhododendrons do not require top dressing, that they grow and bloom well without it. The most daring and determined gardeners at best used well-decomposed manure as fertilizer. There was a strong prejudice against mineral fertilizers, since it was believed that rhododendrons do not tolerate them. As knowledge expands on mineral nutrition plants in nurseries began to carefully apply mineral fertilizers for feeding rhododendrons. Nobody counts these days possible to obtain high-quality planting material of rhododendrons without the use of mineral fertilizers.

Mineral fertilizers are necessary not only for rhododendrons growing in nurseries. Those rhododendrons that grow in plantations on permanent place. Only then will rhododendrons show their beauty - bright, juicy green foliage, abundant flowering, lush habitus. Breeders, using various mineral fertilizers, try to speed up the flowering of hybrids in order to see the results of their work faster.

Rhododendrons are slow growing plants with shallow, compact root systems, so they cannot tolerate high concentrations of mineral salts. This circumstance must be taken into account when feeding rhododendrons.

As the experience of the specialists of the Botanical Garden of the Leningrad State University. P. Stuchka and foreign experts, rhododendrons need to be fertilized already in the first year after transplantation, immediately after the rooting of the transplanted plants. Rhododendrons should be fed mainly in early spring and immediately after flowering - at the beginning and during active growth young shoots. It is desirable that the top dressing be liquid.

What external signs Do Rhododendrons Indicate a Nutrient Deficiency? The most characteristic sign is a change in the color of the leaves: they become light, their luster decreases, the shoots become yellowish-green, the plants have very little annual growth, they are not laid flower buds, in August and early September, there is an increased fall of old leaves.

The most accessible and common of organic fertilizers are old semi-rotted manure, horn shavings and blood meal, horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, are unsuitable, as they increase the alkalinity of the soil. Semi-rotted cow manure not only increases the nutritional value of the soil, but also improves its physical properties: the soil becomes looser, its moisture and air permeability and water-holding capacity increase. As organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, horn shavings and horn flour are of great value, which are characterized by a high content of nitrogen and phosphorus and have a long and mild effect, since their decomposition process takes longer than the decomposition of manure.

If organic fertilizers are available in sufficient quantities, then they should be preferred. Like mineral fertilizers, it is desirable to apply organic fertilizers in liquid form. If manure is used, it should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15-20, left for several days until active microbiological processes begin, and only then used for top dressing. To fertilize rhododendrons, you can also use slurry, diluting it with water to a light brown color. To increase the phosphorus content in diluted slurry, you need to add 3-4 kg of superphosphate per 100 liters of liquid. When fertilizing rhododendrons with slurry, it is necessary to strictly monitor the reaction of the soil, since this top dressing can change the pH of the substrate. Before top dressing, rhododendrons should be well watered so that the root ball gets wet to the full depth.

If there is semi-decomposed manure on the farm in spring or autumn, it can be poured on the surface of the soil around each plant with a layer about 5 cm thick. With melting snow or rain moisture, nutrients gradually penetrate the soil, and the plants receive the necessary top dressing.

If organic fertilizers are inaccessible or not available at all, then inorganic fertilizers should be oriented.

Mineral fertilizers are essentially nutrient concentrates, so with a small amount they add a lot of nutrients to the soil, needed by plants. Since rhododendrons grow well on acidic soils, physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulphate, superphosphate, magnesium sulphate, potassium sulphate, calcium sulphate, potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, etc.) should be used for top dressing, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment.

The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used for feeding rhododendrons should not exceed 1-2: 1000 (solution potash fertilizers should be even weaker). For fertilizing rhododendrons, chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used. You need to start feeding plants in early spring and stop at the end of July, otherwise, with warm weather and sufficient humidity, soil and air can cause secondary growth of shoots. Young shoots that started growing late, have time to complete growth before the end of the growing season and in the fall, even with the first light frosts, they freeze slightly. In the climatic conditions of our republic, which is characterized by warm and humid summers and autumns, the secondary growth of shoots in late August or early September is observed in many types of rhododendrons. You can stop it by spraying the plants with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate K 2 SO 4 or a 1% solution of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH 2 RO 4.

Feeding rhododendrons with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution is very effective. To prepare it, 8 g of potassium nitrate KNO 3 and 8 g of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH 2 PO 4 are taken per 10 liters of water. A solution is obtained that contains the main macroelements - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and maintains the pH of the medium within the required limits (2-7) .

Feeding rhododendrons with solutions of mineral salts is a very laborious work, therefore, in the mass cultivation of rhododendrons, dry mineral fertilizers are used. This makes the work of gardeners easier. For 1 m 2 of area or for one plant 1 m high, 80 g of mineral fertilizers of the following composition should be taken: 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. This mixture is sown in early spring, immediately after the snow has melted and the soil has thawed (in the climatic conditions of the Latvian SSR, around the end of March and the first half of April). During spring rains, mineral fertilizers dissolve and enter the substrate. Secondary feeding is carried out at the end of May - at the beginning of June, immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. This time, the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half.

You can carry out top dressing in a slightly different way: in early spring, only nitrogenous fertilizers are applied, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. In this case, in early spring, 100 g of a mixture is sown per 1 m 2 of the area, which includes 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate. In late May - early June, after the flowering of rhododendrons, 80 g of a mixture is applied per 1 m 2 of the area, which includes 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. Top dressing of open ground rhododendrons with mineral fertilizer solutions is carried out 2-3 times a year - from April to July. For top dressing, you can use the same fertilizers and in the same concentration that we recommended for top dressing of covered ground rhododendrons. For 10 liters of water, 21.5 g of ammonium sulfate, 8.3 g of superphosphate and 6.3 g of potassium sulfate are taken. In addition, during this period, in order to maintain the necessary reaction of the substrate, it is advisable to water the plants 1-2 more times with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution.

Feeding young seedlings is somewhat different from feeding rhododendrons growing in a permanent place, so their fertilizer is discussed in the section that talks about the propagation of rhododendrons by seeds.

KONDRATOVICH "RODODENDRONS", Riga, 1981 (experience of introduction of rhododendrons in Latvia)

Rhododendron is a plant of the genus of evergreen trees. Its name means a tree with roses, appearance the shrub is very similar to the azalea. This is a fairly common plant, with about three thousand varieties. There is a rhododendron from North America to East Asia, most often grows near water bodies. This plant in its natural habitat reaches up to thirty meters in length, and some species spread like a carpet. Rhododendron is one of the favorite crops among gardeners in Russia and Ukraine, as it is distinguished by its beauty and endurance.

Description of culture

Garden rhododendron is a shrub that is quite popular all over the world due to the beauty of its foliage and magnificent flowering. Some species of this plant emit a bright floral aroma. The foliage of the culture is annual or perennial, depending on the variety.

The fruits of the shrub are a small box with seeds. The bush has a rather superficial root system, which makes it easy to transplant the plant to another place.

Rhododendron is an excellent early honey plant. Very popular with beekeepers.

Conditions for planting rhododendron

In our area, only frost-resistant rhododendron can be planted, since the roots of this plant are located close to the surface of the earth, and in severe winters there is a high risk of crop death. Landing is best done in early spring or late autumn. In general, it can be transplanted into open ground any time, except during the flowering period.

The landing procedure is quite simple.:

• It is necessary to dig a hole about 50 cm deep, fill it with a mixture of peat and clay. The contents of the recess are strongly tamped, and then dig a small hole in it the size of the root system of a shrub. Before planting a plant, you need to hold its roots in water.
• The planted bush must be covered with earth and trampled down well. The root neck cannot be buried, it must be flush with the ground.
• After planting, water the bush abundantly.

Will grow best in shade, rich in minerals acidic soil. Excellent neighbors with oak, pine and other deep-rooted and fruit trees. But alder, maple, chestnut and linden will destroy the rhododendron.

shrub care

This plant is unpretentious and easy to care for. Care includes the usual procedures: weeding, watering, spraying, top dressing and pest control.

You can not loosen the soil next to the shrub, as the root system of the plant is located high, and there is a risk of damaging it.

Watering should be plentiful and regular, especially during the flowering period of the shrub.. You can determine when you need to water a flower by the state of its foliage: if it ceases to be glossy, then the plant needs water.

During the summer at high temperature air you need to spray the plant. Watering should be regulated so as not to overmoisten the roots.

plant pruning

Usually this shrub does not require pruning, as it independently forms beautiful crown . Sometimes you need to trim some branches or cut off frozen or dry shoots.

To fulfill correct pruning, you need to carry it out in early spring. Cut points to be processed charcoal or garden pitch. After about thirty days, buds form on the shoots, the renewal process starts.

This shrub has such a feature: abundant flowering is observed in one year, and much less inflorescences are formed in the next season. To get rid of such a disadvantage, it is necessary to prune half of the plant alternately in a year.

Shrub fertilizer

This plant must be fertilized, even in the case of a recent planting. The first feeding is carried out in the spring. Before fertilizing, the plant must be watered. From organic fertilizers, manure diluted with water is suitable. Since the shrub grows in acidic soil, nitrogen products and potassium phosphate can be used from mineral fertilizers.

It is best to fertilize the plant in the spring with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, and in early summer with sulfuric acid.

Diseases and pests

Most often, the following pests threaten the rhododendron:

• mealy worm;
• spider mite;
• bedbugs;
• weevils;
• slugs and snails.

To combat these pests, it is necessary to treat the plant with special solutions of insecticides and diazinones. Many pests die from karbofos.

fungal diseases arise due to waterlogging and poor ventilation of the roots. Most of these diseases can be eliminated with a solution blue vitriol.

Affected shoots and leaves should be removed and pruned.

Features of spring care

In the spring, it is necessary to remove the shelter from the plants after temperature regime set to positive. It is recommended to remove the shelter from the rhododendrons gradually, which will protect the shoots from negative impact direct sunlight. Old mulching circle trunk circles should be removed. The first watering should be water-charging. For this purpose, warmed up in the sun and settled water is used.

In the presence of a large accumulation of melt water, it is necessary to take measures to remove it from the plantings of rhododendron. AT spring care rhododendron plantings include activities such as watering, nutritious top dressing, weed removal, loosening, pruning and spraying against pests.

Cutting technology

All sections must be processed with a garden pitch. Approximately three weeks after pruning, buds awaken on the shoots, and part of the shoots is updated. It is important to remember that bushes that are very old or very frostbitten in winter must be cut at a height of 35 cm from the ground level. In order to reduce the indicators of the frequency of flowering, it is recommended that immediately after flowering in the spring, timely breaking out of all wilted inflorescences is recommended.

Watering and fertilizing

Rhododendrons belong to the category of moisture-loving plants, so watering is given important role. It is recommended to supplement irrigation measures with fertilizer application. Rhododendrons grow quite slowly, but for full development they need periodic top dressing. The main dressings are applied in the spring, after flowering, as well as at the stage of active growth of young shoots.

In early spring, a mixture of fertilizers based on ammonium sulphate, potassium sulphate and superphosphate can be applied under the plants in a ratio of 2:1:1. The use of such a fertilizer involves the consumption of 80 g of the mixture for each square meter. For adult and old plants, additional organic matter can be applied in the form of rotted manure or compost at the rate of 1 bucket for each bush.

Plants respond very well to fertilizing with granular fertilizers. Kemira-universal, which should be evenly distributed over the surface of the soil (1 tablespoon of granules for each square meter of area). For older and profusely flowering plants, it is advisable to double the application rate of this fertilizer.

For further top dressing, you can use a solution of potassium sulfate. It should be remembered that in the last decade of summer, rhododendrons do not need top dressing, as they often cause late secondary growth and freezing of unripened shoots in winter. For the same reason experienced growers do not recommend the use of mullein for dressing.

Pest protection

As a rule, rhododendrons are affected by mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, bedbugs, weevils, rhododendron flies, as well as snails and slugs. For the destruction of gastropods, manual collection and preventive treatment of plants with an 8% fungicide "TMTD" or "Tirama" is used. In order to protect landings from spider mites, rhododendron bugs and weevils, spraying the rhododendron and the soil around the plants with the Diazinon preparation is used. The treatment of flower beds in the spring with a standard solution of karbofos has a good performance.

reproduction

Rhododendron reproduces at home in several ways:

Varieties of rhododendron

There are a huge number of species and varieties of this beautiful shrub. Below are the most popular ones..

In our latitudes, this beautiful shrub normally tolerates small frosts, but it is still better to cover it for the winter. It does not require special care and successfully reproduces. Such a plant will become a real decoration of any garden or garden. suburban area.

Features of landing in the Moscow region, Siberia and the Urals

This plant is thermophilic, so for the Moscow region you need to choose varieties that can survive winter frosts. Due to the superficial location of the root system, the probability of freezing the shrub remains even under cover.

Rhododendron in Siberia. Planting and caring for such a shrub should include mandatory mulching and shelter for the winter. You need to choose deciduous varieties of rhododendron: Japanese, Kamchatka, yellow and others.

Rhododendrons in the Urals. Care and planting of a plant in this region begins with the selection of a cold-resistant variety, for example, The Hague, Mikkeli, Rosie Lights. Be sure to cover the rhododendron for the winter to avoid hypothermia.

The unique beauty of rhododendron inspires gardeners; for many, caring for an exquisite heat-loving shrub becomes a real pleasure and develops into a hobby. Growing a rhododendron cannot be called easy, you need to choose the right place where to plant it, monitor soil moisture and protect it from pests. But if you make an effort and provide the plant with proper care, then this is rare. beautiful plant will be a real gem in any garden.

General information about rhododendron

Spring plant rhododendron blooms amazingly. He refers to evergreens. Flower plant from May to June.

In today's article, you will learn how to feed the rhododendron during the main periods - before and after flowering - as well as how to care for the plant before the onset of winter.

Popular varieties of rhododendron:

• Maurits
• Haaga
• Elvira
• daughter of the north

Fertilizing rhododendron before flowering

Every florist wants to get a beautiful, flowering plant at home, so I am ready to apply all the techniques for abundant flowering. Top dressing of rhododendron before flowering is aimed at enhancing the formation of buds. It is necessary to focus on the purchase of mineral fertilizers.

What fertilizers to use for feeding rhododendron:

• The drug "Buton"
• Azofoska

Mineral fertilizers for rhododendron:

• Superphosphate + 4 kg dry universal fertilizer+ 100 liters of water (for large bushes).
• ammonium sulphate
• Magnesium sulfate
• Potassium nitrate

Organic fertilizers for rhododendron:

• Rotted manure (5 cm around the perimeter).

In order to activate the microprocesses of development, the rhododendron is fed for several days. It is recommended to add slurry under the rhododendron bush (diluted to light brown), as well as phosphate fertilizers.

During the budding period, nitrogen fertilizers are suitable for rhododendrons, which form the green part of the plant, as well as phosphorus, which affect the formation of buds.

In early August, rhododendrons can be fertilized on a leaf, that is, use the technique foliar dressings based on a solution of potassium sulfate (1%).

After the end of flowering (in June), the rhododendron is weakened. The plant is being prepared for winter period. Before the onset of frost, you need to treat the rhododendron with Bordeaux liquid. The solution protects the flower from diseases and strengthens the condition of the plant, preparing for a dormant period.

How to feed rhododendron after flowering:

• Bordeaux liquid
• blue vitriol

In the store you can buy special fertilizers for rhododendrons and dilute them according to the recipe: 30 grams of fertilizer per 1 liter of water + 5 grams nitrogen fertilizer(any).

How to prepare a rhododendron for winter after flowering?

Rhododendron needs special care after flowering to prepare for winter. What care techniques to use for care:

1. Reduce watering to 12 liters at a time for mature plants.
2. Cover the rhododendron bushes with burlap + twine.
3. Form a pocket for air to enter the flower.
4. Ventilate regularly, but during the cold period.
5. Remove the shelter after the end of the night frost.

The future flowering of the Rhododendron plant also depends on the correct wintering - an easy-to-care plant, but it requires a specific approach. For example, in the spring, after warming, the rhododendron is in a hurry to open, but the sun's rays during this period can harm the plant. The procedure is best done on a cloudy day or in the late afternoon. So that the fragile plant is not damaged, the main care should be introduced gradually.