Cutting into a bowl is a technology for manual cutting of a bathhouse log. Do-it-yourself log house: a guide Methods for cutting log houses from logs

Building a bathhouse from a log house is not simple task, however, the construction technology, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen.

This material explains everything key points, which will help in the construction of a log bathhouse: from laying the foundation to interior finishing.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camp heaters. And in the 21st century, the Russian bathhouse has not become some kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries-old competition with bathtubs and showers. Getting rid of many ailments, removing harmful substances from the body accumulated in everyday life in the city, giving the body complete rest - all this has been achieved by visiting the bathhouse for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it is designed in general - you will find answers to many “bathroom” questions in this article.

Place and layout of the bathhouse

One of the important additions to the bathhouse itself at all times was a pond with fresh water, located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. The special charm of the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrasting ablution - after steaming in a Russian bathhouse, running out of it and plunging into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with a fire in the bathhouse, which occurred quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Today, there is no particular need to link a country bathhouse to a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the cottage.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bathhouse: distance from the road, the presence of natural or artificial fencing from outside spectators (dense bushes, tree crowns, fences, outbuildings), fire distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main rooms of the bathhouse are the dressing room, washing room and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 per bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 per person. In addition, the dressing room should have space for furniture (a locker for clothes, a bench for sitting) and for storing fuel (a box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need space for containers with hot and cold water, stoves and space for sun loungers.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people) a bathhouse of the following dimensions is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing room - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bathhouse of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bathhouse is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the area is significant, then the bathhouse can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, lounge areas, etc.

In temperate and cold climate zones, it will be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and window openings- on the western (southwestern) side of it. This location of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow the premises to be illuminated with sunlight longer.

Bathhouse construction - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.
2. Selecting and laying the foundation.
3. Creating a foundation for a stove (if necessary).
4. Creation of the floor and sewer system of the bathhouse.
5. Assembling a log bathhouse.
6. Roof construction.
7. Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
8. Caulking bath walls.
9. Laying or installing a stove, installing a chimney.
10. Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse.
11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

Classic and most successful construction material for the Russian bath there was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging bath rooms, removing excess moisture outside.

What wood is suitable for building a bathhouse? As a rule, baths are built from round timber of pine or spruce with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bathhouse - oak, larch and linden. For example, lower crowns and flooring logs made of oak will allow you to get a truly durable bathhouse. A nuance - the oak must be cut down “in its sap” (i.e., not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4) following the first oak crown are best made of larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to stockpile wood for building a bathhouse? Round wood, wood for interior decoration, must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bathhouse - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, i.e. the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion when selecting wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the coniferous round timber, dryness, sanded surface, absence of rotten areas and places of wood-boring beetle damage.

Bath foundation

The main types of foundations for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - preferably to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying a foundation of any type: clearing the site of debris, completely removing the top layer of soil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid or fluid-plastic clay.
2. Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (silty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
3. Slightly heaving soil is formed rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bathhouse

Satisfied with little heaving soils: consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bathhouse, as well as at the junction of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of laying the columnar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

The pillars for such a foundation can be easily made directly at the site where the bathhouse was built; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, bound with concrete mortar. Basic (angular) brick pillars for a columnar foundation, it is usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a cross-section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made of two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth; coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100–150 mm), filled with water and compacted.

When building a bathhouse with your own hands, you can also make foundation pillars yourself. To do this, you will need a collapsible formwork made of boards, coated on the inside with a non-hardening lubricant such as Emulsol. You need to place iron reinforcement inside the assembled formwork, then pour the concrete mixture.

To cast foundation pillars inside holes dug for them, sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing felt or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm is created, which is placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is filled with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete pillar from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be thoroughly compacted. Using wire handles pre-fixed to the sliding formwork, it is lifted by swaying by 400 mm, sand is poured on the outside and a new portion of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation; they are durable, not subject to rotting, and their outer surface quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete; their underground part must be coated with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

In the spaces between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bathhouse and interior walls The walls of the steam room are laid out from bricks, their thickness is sufficient - brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried 250 mm into the ground.

The foundation pillars and brick walls between them are raised to a height of 300–400 mm from the ground level; they need to be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. During casting, metal embedments of the required shape are installed at the ends of the pillars - they are designed to fasten the bathhouse frame to the foundation.

When building a bathhouse on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a strip monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking a construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
2. Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
3. Add a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70–100 mm).
4. Installation of formwork.
5. Laying reinforcement.
6. Fill concrete mixture.

The reinforcement laid at the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross-section of at least 12 mm; it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifted to its middle using brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in the proportion 5:3:1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculating the volume of concrete required to pour a strip foundation is quite simple; you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

• 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 = 2.64 m3

One of the difficulties in preparing a dry concrete mixture is the lack of scales at construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will be useful to you: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of crushed stone, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the person cast into it concrete foundation protruded 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be pierced many times bayonet shovel or using a wire probe, tap the outer side of the formwork with a hammer (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait until the foundation is completely cured, approximately 5 to 7 days. When conducting foundation works in the cold season, after pouring the concrete, the formwork must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the expiration of the period allocated for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to waterproofing it and lifting it in brick rows (if lifting the bathhouse is not required, then after waterproofing we proceed to the cement screed). Will be needed following materials:

1. Ruberoid.
2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), with a cross-section from 32 to 57 mm.
3. Masonry mesh.
4. Red brick.
5. Masonry mortar.

Roofing felt (roofing felt) is cut into strips sufficient for laying on a concrete foundation, then laid on top of the foundation with bitumen mastic (for roofing felt - tar mastic). The brick is laid using a single-row ligation method: masonry mortar is laid on a layer of roofing material, the first brick row is laid on it “in a poke” (across the foundation axis), then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar is laid and the next brick row is laid, but in a “spoon” (along the axis foundation). Each new row of brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying “in a spoon” and “in a poke” alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bonded rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired foundation height.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (mortar composition sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and bath floor

We create the foundation for the stove and assemble the sauna frame. If capital masonry of the heater is planned, it requires an independent foundation, that is, not connected to the main foundation.

The floor in the bathhouse can be clay, earthen, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bathhouse visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring is raised above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of a wooden bathhouse floor is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rot and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. Wooden covering the floor wears out quickly, becoming unsightly appearance, may require replacement after 6–8 years. It would be more practical for bath flooring tile- it is easier to care for, it is not susceptible to moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

Floors in bathhouses should be placed on at different levels: the steam room floor is 150 mm above the level of the washing room floor (we retain heat), the washing room floor is 30 mm below the floor level in the dressing room (we protect it from water).

Since installing a concrete floor covered with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to install a concrete floor in a bathhouse. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of medium-fraction crushed stone, laid sequentially. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay roofing felt on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

1. First option- laying a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope towards the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it needs to be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can begin tiling work.
2. Second option- 50 mm cement strainer, containing perlite (expanded sand). Mixture composition: perlite: cement: water as 5: 1: 3. After a full week has passed since the perlite concrete was laid, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope towards the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Observe the proportion of water exactly!

If the base of the bathhouse is raised significantly above the ground level (from 300 mm), flooring will require wooden joists square section (side 150 mm). If the dimensions of the bathhouse premises do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the supports for the logs will be the frame logs. For large sizes, additional supports for floor joists will be required; they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700–800 mm. Support pillars for logs it is necessary to place them on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm thick.

Important! Before forming the base to support the logs, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove and build a sewerage system.

The wood for the logs can be oak, larch or coniferous trees; the logs should be treated with tar or an antiseptic before installation.

The flooring solution in this case is as follows: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with roofing felt with the walls overlapping to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (a layer of 200 mm of foam can be laid between the layer of roofing felt and bulk insulation), a subfloor of 29 mm is attached to the underside of the joists edged board. Then a PVC film, foil mineral insulation, and another layer of film are laid for vapor barrier. Pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with fine filler on top, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we lay ceramic tiles.

Don't forget to bring the foundation for the stove to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm tongue-and-groove boards made of coniferous wood.

Important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic building materials - this condition is especially relevant for a steam room!

Bath sewage system

To drain wastewater from a bathhouse you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for wastewater and pipes that drain dirty water into the pit and then into the wastewater well.

The pit is torn off from the outside of the bathhouse foundation, and gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are inserted into it from the steam room and washing room ( metal pipes will rust quickly).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, cross-section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, and a 110 mm drain pipe(s) from the bathhouse is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drainage, containing at least 2 m3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further the better. A pipe is supplied to it from the pit, laid at a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering drain pipe, the main drainage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - in a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully compact each layer.

Before leading the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bathhouse. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit; the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drain hole.

To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be covered with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt should be placed between them, and the top cover should be covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

Log house, roofing and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bathhouse to order from professional performers; its production is quite difficult. The finished log house in disassembled form must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. The crowns are fastened with steel 25 mm tenon brackets with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The roof structure of the bathhouse includes rafters, sheathing is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of final roof structure depends on roofing, with which it will overlap. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the frame (preferably the penultimate one) using tenon brackets. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the installation of a single- or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10° to 60°) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Single-pitch rafters, located at an angle, are secured with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are connected to each other, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bathhouse can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing felt, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap of at least 500 mm on the walls.

Attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We make a blind area along the perimeter of the foundation: completely remove upper layer soil, we go 200 mm deep at a distance of 600-800 mm from the base of the bathhouse, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) and then level it. Let's lay it down expansion joints(19 mm board coated with resin or bitumen, in increments of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), fill with a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - cover with a layer of dry cement of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bathhouse must be covered with bitumen to waterproof it.

Caulking for a sauna log house

Performed to insulate a log house - sealing cracks between its logs, the material for caulking is traditionally flax tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made ones made from jute and flax fibers: flax batting and felts - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory-made caulking materials over natural ones is their resistance to moths and fungi, and it is easier to work with factory-made material, since it is produced in the form of a continuous strip of a given thickness and width.

Caulking of a log house is carried out during its assembly - caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the roof is built, full caulking is carried out - on the outside and inside of the log house, and after a year - repeated caulking (the log house settles - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet; you can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking shovel looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, the thickness of the handle is 30 mm, the width of the blade at the base is 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a round shape: the diameter of the handle is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the diameter of the striking part is 70 mm, its length is 100 mm.

Caulking is done in two ways - “set” or “stretched”. The second way to caulk is as follows: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it there with the help of a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap them around the roller and drive it into the groove using a spatula and a roller - with force, until you are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log houses is designed to cover large grooves (slots). We twist the material for caulking into 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the gap. Loops are collected in a quantity sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Rules for caulking:

• First, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only then along the lower edge;
• We begin caulking work from the cracks of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the cracks of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the adjacent one in the nearest wall (from right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

Under no circumstances should you caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the frame to skew and you will have to disassemble/assemble it again. Let us remind you once again: caulking is done in a “bottom-up” direction along the perimeter of the log house.

Installing a stove

There are many design options for bathhouse stoves; they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel, or use built-in heating elements and heated by electricity; they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick kilns in bathhouses they are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry seams must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness to achieve the greatest efficiency of the stove. Only red brick is used for laying the stoves. The furnace of the stove is led into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are located in the washing room (steam room), and the distance from them to the walls of the washing room must be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast iron or metal stove, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

Heaters installed for those who like to steam are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). Rubble, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the heater chamber. The design of these stoves is extremely simple - similar to kitchen stoves, heaters differ from them by having a larger pipe or the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, you need to add cast iron pigs to the stones according to percentage 80:20 (stones: pigs). For every 1 m 3 of steam room you will need at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron pigs.

By maintaining a distance of 40–50 mm in the furnace between its walls and the water heating boiler, the effect of all-round blowing of the boiler with hot gases and rapid heating of the water is achieved.

For better traction you need to remove chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When laying a chimney through the attic, be sure to fluff the pipe 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass closer than 150 mm near the roof sheathing and rafters (fire safety standards).

Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse

To wash one bathhouse user, at least 8 liters are required hot water. This amount can be provided in several ways: heat a container of water on a heater, use geyser, install electric heater- boiler. If available central water supply, the pipeline to the bathhouse leads from the main house - water from such a pipeline system must be drained into winter time, otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing submersible pump for its injection and equipping such a water supply system with purification filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bathhouse, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

You need to extend an independent line to the bathhouse to supply electricity, and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For the air supply you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum right away, focusing on two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a supporting cable. But it is extremely difficult to spend time with him installation work, because it is too thick (minimum section - 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of a bathhouse according to fire safety standards, you need to attach it to special anchor clamps - considering the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is air supply with a VVGng copper cable attached to a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from the cable on a plastic-insulated wire; its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core VVGng cable (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched over the air to the bathhouse, the optimal cross-section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what electrical equipment the owner of the dacha will want to power from it in future.

All wiring boxes, sockets and switches, and electrical panels must be for outdoor installation only. According to the rules against fire safety It is prohibited to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing/steam room - only in the dressing room. Don't joke about the possibility of a short circuit in wooden building- all internal wiring of the bathhouse must be done only in non-flammable corrugated hose, secured with special clips, cable passage through the partitions must only be through a steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in a junction box, socket or lamp so that they enter from below or from the side, but not from above - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps - a metal body, only a glass shade. All connections of the internal cable routing are made only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

To work in the electrical panel and install an RCD, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you are not one yourself!

Installation of partitions, ceilings, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

Internal partitions in the bathhouse can be brick or wood, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be made of brick, or there are brick inserts in it, with single brick masonry - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior finishing is usually carried out in cases where the bathhouse itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the finishing scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing external and internal finishing, you will have to rebuild the ventilation system of the bathhouse, because the log logs will be covered with cladding and will not be able to provide full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - rough and finishing. The rough ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing/steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the rough ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered with a finishing finish - linden, pine tongue and groove board (20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

You need to install windows in the bathhouse small size(on average 500x700 mm) and embed them low - enough so that the person sitting on the bench can look out through them. Windows in the bathhouse are always made with double glazing, depending on the size - with a window or completely hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in bathhouses must be installed so that they open outward - for fire safety reasons. Material for door leaves A tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter is used; the boards are fastened with dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than is needed for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when humidity increases, the sashes will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. Optimal door size in washing department baths - 600x1600 mm, in steam rooms - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above floor level (it’s uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep you warm). The hinges for hanging the door leaves are brass, opening into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles- wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, width - 500–800 mm. The distance between the “floors” of two-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to the ceiling covering is 1100 mm.

The lying surface is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, and a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a cross-section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - using nails, the heads of which are recessed into the wood; from below - using screws. For fastening, choose nails and screws from of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the shelf structure are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero-grade sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final highest height- 190 mm.

When choosing material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas have higher density and may cause skin burns. Therefore, try to choose boards and timber without any knotty areas or with a minimum number of them.

Fire precautions

Protect the sauna premises from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace firebox, make sure it is securely fastened oven doors, install fire extinguishing means nearby (a container of water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can open the doors of the steam room and washing room freely when lighting the sauna. Do not block passages or the space in front of doors and windows.

Wooden materials retain heat well, are environmentally friendly, and also have an attractive appearance. You can prepare a log house with your own hands.

Materials and tools for performing work

To prepare a log house, you need to take the following tools:

• The axe, it should not be too heavy.
• Chisel.
• Tape measure, level and marker.
• Plumb and bracket.
• Hacksaw, shovel.
• Rope and a marking tool in the form of a compass.
• Chainsaw.

Let's look at what different expressions mean in a carpenter's language:

• A log house is a basic building without a roof or floor; its height is determined by the number of crowns.
• The crown is the place in the log house that has a square or rectangular shape. In the corner part they are fastened with locks. The crown comes in three types and is placed according to its name:

1. window sill type;
2. window type;
3. above-window type;

• The frame crown is the first element of the frame, with the help of which bottom harness protected from rotting.
• The bottom frame is the second element of the frame; it is considered the main part where the logs are placed.
• The joists support the floor and secure the frame at the bottom.
• The crown of the closing type is the first element above the window.
• The frame in the upper part serves as a support for the roof; it includes rafters and supports.
• The butt is a section of the trunk that is located at the bottom of the tree. And on the opposite side there is a peak.

Logs can be processed underneath to make the work being done safer. The construction of a log house takes place in three stages: the main part is completed, and then the middle and upper. Along the entire length, the log may have different circumferences, so you need to change the top and butt. If you make an edging, the crowns will fit together well and will not form large gaps. The deck in the extreme part is trimmed on both sides to create a flat surface.

Blank material for log house

First, timber is harvested, having previously calculated required quantity and sizes of logs, these indicators depend on the width, height and length of the building. Therefore, before starting this work, it is necessary to make a drawing of the building with clear dimensions and calculate the amount of material. Preparation of a log house depends on the layout, type of fastening of logs, and their processing.

When completing a project, they note what shape the building will be, that is, it can be standard, which consists of four walls. Or it may have an unusual appearance, and include large quantity load-bearing elements.

Logs are fastened in two ways: in a “bowl” and in a “paw”; these types of groove construction differ. With the first option, strong wind does not affect the corner parts of the building, but more material is wasted when bandaging.

With the second option, less material will be needed, but the corner parts will be affected strong wind, and also making grooves is more difficult.

The building can be made of cylindrical and profiled logs. In the first case, the log is processed until it takes the shape of a cylinder; special machines are used for this. This material has a number of advantages:

The profiled timber has a rectangular or square shape when cut, and its processing is also carried out using a machine. At the final stage, the side parts of the log will be flat, and there will be special grooves for fastening at the top and bottom. This material also has its advantages:

• Thanks to the grooves, the building will be more stable, and the work will be completed faster compared to the first option.
• Thanks to the flat surface of the side joints, water from precipitation does not penetrate into the horizontal seams, and the material does not rot.
• After time, the logs do not move, since cuts are made during manufacturing. This material has minimal shrinkage.
• A profiled log is lightweight and therefore does not require the construction of an expensive and massive foundation.

Coniferous types of wood are used to make a log house. After harvesting the logs, the bark is removed and dried.

Initial work

According to the drawing, markings are made on the territory, stakes are installed and the rope is pulled. Then the foundation is made in the form of linings, with dimensions of 1 meter in length and 1/3 meter in circumference. They are laid near the corner part of the proposed building using a level, and the load will be uniform.

Then they build an edging, choose where it will be located, and lay it with this part up, fixing the log with staples. Using a plumb line, draw lines vertically; they will be the outermost parts of the edge. They stretch the rope along the edges of the log, make cuts, and cut off the material until the edge is completely obtained. The same work is carried out on the opposite part of the log.

Laying the log house

After the foundation is poured, it must be left to dry completely.

Lay on the completed foundation waterproofing material, you can use roofing felt. A board with a thickness of 5 centimeters is installed on top, on which the crown will be located. To keep the building warm, tow is laid on top.

Then the initial crown is laid, in which the logs should have a larger circumference compared to the rest of the material. Before starting this work, notches of about 15 centimeters along the entire length are made on the log. In this case, the material will adhere tightly to the board.

After this, the remaining crowns are laid to the required height. Tow is placed between the elements of the crown, the logs are tied in the corner part, spikes are also used for a tight connection, they are placed at a distance of up to 1 meter. In this case, the building will have good stability.

How to install the first element of a window sill type crown

First, mark the doorway, then install the logs using a dowel. Check using plumb lines vertical arrangement corner parts, the final window sill beam is installed on two dowels.

Then the crowns of the window element are laid, keeping the opening height to 130 centimeters. After this, the strapping is performed in the upper part.

After this, the elements for the rafters are prepared, for this purpose the logs are cut off, and about two edges are made on each of them. The elements are cut into the deck, and recesses for the rafter legs are made with a chisel.

When making rafters, there should not be many small knots in the log. Near the base of the rafters, a tenon is made by sawing, and paired installation is carried out.

How to install openings for doors and windows?

Openings can be made in two ways: after the work is completed, and during construction.

In the first option, the installation of openings is carried out after completion of all work; for this, gaps are made in the crowns at the intended location. After installation is completed, these openings are cut out using a chainsaw.

In the second option, the openings are made during the process of laying logs; special bars and grooves are used for this; this method takes a lot of time and money.

Metal materials cannot be used as casing, as heat will escape through them. To install the socket on the end parts of the logs, a vertical tenon 50*50 is made on each side. A pigtail is installed on it, and there is a groove on its reverse side.

Roof construction

First, the beams are laid on the walls.

The beams are secured and the rafter legs are installed at a distance of 1 meter. A corner cut is made near the ridge for a tight connection.

Boards are nailed to the feet of the rafters or sheathing is made.

Then lay the main roof covering according to the instructions for the selected material.

The ridge is covered with galvanization to protect it from strong winds and precipitation.

After completing all the work, I begin the interior finishing, namely the construction of floors.

Types of pillars and their installation

The pillars are:

• corner;
• window;
• intermediate;
• door

They are arranged according to their names, the thickest elements are the corner ones, the thin ones are the intermediate ones.

Corner posts are placed in a pocket, the depth of which is up to 7 centimeters. The remaining pillars are installed at a depth of about 3 centimeters. Up to three edges are made on the log house; after shrinkage occurs, they begin laying the remaining pillars.

At the end, rafters are installed; for this purpose, walkways, jibs and nails are used as fastenings. The elements are laid on the walkways, top part fastened with nails. The spikes of the rafter elements are placed in pockets, fixed with jibs, and the legs are secured with staples.

After all work is completed, the building is left for 1 year to shrink. To prevent the doors and windows from skewing, and to prevent the material from deforming, it is necessary to make gaps that disappear over time. While shrinkage occurs, you can construct the floor or rafters for the roof.

After shrinkage occurs, tow fills all the resulting gaps.

Mandatory rules

When constructing log buildings, the following rules must be followed:

1. Logs are harvested in winter because the material at this time is more resistant to precipitation and not prone to rotting. The tree can be used for preparations by dropping iodine on it; if it turns blue, then start working.
2. To increase service life and prevent rotting of the material under the influence of precipitation, it is necessary to treat the logs with an antiseptic.
3. Before starting the main work, the crowns are laid out on the surface and signed, and then they are installed sequentially.
4. All seams and gaps must be covered with tow, this will help retain heat.
5. When tying “in the paw”, the connection of the corner parts is sheathed with boards for additional fixation.
6. You also need to take into account that after shrinkage, the height of the building can decrease by up to 10%, so you need to immediately calculate this indicator.
7. To make the roof stable, the rafters are fixed with wire to the 3rd or 4th crown.
8. To prevent cracks from appearing in the log, it is necessary to make cuts towards the center. If they do arise, then the recesses are filled with tow.
9. When filling gaps, the tow must be hidden from getting wet, otherwise moisture will fall on the base material, which will lead to rotting.
10. Filling the gaps is done in the absence of rain to protect the material from getting wet.
11. To ensure that the logs do not move and are securely installed, they are secured with dowels located in the recesses, which are made in the center of the material.
12. When laying the initial crown, a gap may form between it and the foundation, which must be hidden with halves of logs.

In order to build from a log house, it is necessary to select the desired processing of the log, prepare the material, build a foundation, put waterproofing material and boards on it, and lay the initial crown of the log house on them. Then they begin to build the remaining crowns to the required height, after that they make openings for doors and windows, make floors, and leave the building to shrink, after which the roof can be made. To prevent deformation of the material and openings, it is necessary to leave compensation gaps that are filled with tow.

If the work is done correctly, the building will be warm and durable.

Our ancestors also preferred to build houses in Rus' from wood, and in our time this construction material has not lost its relevance. This is determined by the fact that wood is a unique, natural and environmentally friendly material. Most of the wooden buildings were erected by Russian architects without the use of nails, cutting into a bowl. The method received this name because the logs are connected into single design. The principle of such a log house is that a recess is cut out in the log that is located below, which has a semicircular shape in the form of a bowl. The top log is placed in this bowl so that the angle is right. A log house built according to this principle is not only durable and warm, but also beautiful.

Construction methods

There are two types of log house construction using the bowl method.

1. "To the region"– another name for Russian felling. The bowl is carved into the lower crown. In most cases it is smooth, but sometimes a small protrusion in the form of a spike is left in the bowl to prevent possible movement. This method was used in the construction of most architectural monuments, preserved to this day.
2. "To the clap" or Siberian felling. In this case, the bowl is cut out at the bottom of the top log, which is laid on top of the bottom log. This is how the construction process takes place.

Experts recommend using Siberian logging when building houses. They explain this by saying that it is more reliable and better protects the log house from moisture and cold. But application modern species heat and waterproofing, as well as competent thermotechnical calculation allows us to minimize this disadvantage.

Learning to chop into a Canadian cup with your own hands is not at all difficult if you follow the recommendations of experts. The article provides step-by-step instructions on how to make a log house, its right size, for example, 6x6 cm, working technology and technique, how to sheathe the structure with this material.

Advantages of constructing a log house using the bowl method.

• This results in a very strong nodal fastening. As a result, the structure is very stable.
• Such houses have a high degree of thermal insulation, since the corners are windproof.
• Houses built this way are environmentally friendly.
• The result is a beautiful and majestic wooden structure.
• No additional finishing is required, since wood itself is a beautiful material.
• The stability of the structure allows the construction of several floors.

If we compare the paw and bowl construction methods, it is better to use the second construction method, since it has proven itself to be the best, and this is the method our ancestors built houses.

It is worth noting the disadvantages of the method.

• Only professionals can build houses using this method, as this is quite a complex job that requires professional skills.
• Difficulties arise when exterior decoration log house, since the corners protrude a considerable distance.
• The useful length of the crowns is significantly reduced due to the presence of protruding corners, which leads to a significant increase in the cost of the log house. This disadvantage acts as the main one when choosing the method of construction in a paw or in a bowl. But a house built using the claw method requires additional thermal insulation, so you won’t be able to save much on this. In addition, a log house built in a paw is not stable enough.

Selection of material for construction

Coniferous materials are used as a building material when constructing a log house using the bowl method. In most cases, pine is chosen for construction, which has an even trunk of equal thickness, a small amount of defects, as well as resistance to rotting. Preference is given to material harvested in the winter season in northern latitudes. This is due to the fact that in winter the tree contains a small amount of sap, so the workpieces crack less when dried.

The building material should have approximately equal dimensions.

The blanks are carefully processed; for this they are sanded and hewn. In order for the log house to be resistant to climatic conditions, they try to orient the material along the growth rings. Material that has thin rings is placed on the outside, and material that has thick rings is placed on the inside.

Thus prepared material is dried, covering it from precipitation. It takes at least six months to dry the material.

Methods of marking

An important role in the construction of a log house is played by correct marking. Marking specialists use a tool called a dash. This tool has a handle and two rigid plates, the ends of which are pointed. The distance between the plates changes. Using a line, you can draw two parallel lines.

To mark, two logs are laid on the ground, maintaining parallelism between them. It is necessary that the edge of the third log, which is laid across parallel logs, be positioned so that the distance from the edge of the log to the bowl is at least 25 cm. Check the correct placement of all logs in the crown. To facilitate marking, all logs are connected with staples. If the bowl is cut out in the upper log, the line is moved apart so that the distance between its plates is equal to half the thickness of the lower log.

When working on markings, they try to ensure that one plate of the line is on the upper log, and the second rests on the lower log. To outline the bowl, one leg of the tool touches the arc of the log located below, while the other leg outlines on the log located above. parallel line. This will create the outline of the future bowl. Mark a special semicircular groove along the log so that the logs are in close contact with each other.

In the event that the bowl is cut into a log located below, one plate of the line outlines bottom part log located on top, and the second plate outlines the lower element. The distance between the tool plates is equal to the thickness of the log located on top.

Working with a line requires experience, so traditional marking tools are sometimes used.

The process of assembling a log house using the bottom bowl method.

• To assemble the structure, you first need to prepare the foundation. Waterproofing is laid on the upper surface of the foundation.
• Larch boards are laid on the waterproofing material. These boards are immersed in an antiseptic solution. Then control the horizontality of the laid boards using a level.
• The logs are installed on boards along the sides of the house under construction. Make sure that the distance between them is the same and equal to the length of the transverse log. The length is measured using a tape measure, and the horizontalness is determined using a level.
• After checking the structure using a level, two transverse logs are laid on it.

• The logs are marked using a carpenter's line.
• They begin cutting out the bowl. Cut out the notch using a saw and finish it with an ax or chisel. The bottom of the recess is processed so that it is as smooth as possible, so that when the top element is laid, the gaps are minimal.
• The degree of mating of the logs is checked, after which the top log is removed. Then a semicircular shape is cut out in the lower log longitudinal groove small depth. This work is done using a rounded ax.
• After lower crown worked out, they begin to work on the second crown. The logs are laid with butts and maintained horizontally.

• Work is underway on the next crown. The insulation is laid in the longitudinal groove. Currently, jute or linen tapes are used as insulation. In the past, our ancestors used moss for these purposes. To make the top log fit more tightly, tap it with a wooden block. When laying the crowns, care must be taken to ensure that they are horizontal and vertical.
• Using special clamps, the laid crowns are secured in a checkerboard pattern. The clamps are driven into the prepared holes using a sledgehammer. Dowels or “Force” spring units are used as clamps.
• After work on the assembly is completed, all seams are caulked and excess insulation is removed. After about six months, this operation is repeated.
• When all work is completed, all wooden structural elements are antisepticized. This procedure is repeated twice.

• Often a log house is first built on bare ground, and the horizontal position is checked using building level. It is necessary to ensure the horizontal position of the logs laid at the bottom of the log house, using boards of the required thickness.
• If the building material is a rounded log of the same diameter, then it will be convenient to use a template made of tin, which imitates the upper log when working on cutting out a bowl in the lower log. This template will allow you to avoid repeatedly lifting heavy logs during the construction of a log house.

A wooden house is a separate category of construction. Its smell takes us back to childhood, and the atmosphere that is created inside fills us with comfort and gives us a feeling of calm and tranquility. IN log houses It’s easy to live there, there is a comfortable climate, and their environmental friendliness is good for health. In order to obtain all these effects upon completion of the building construction process, you need to understand how to properly build a log house and what features it has.

A log house built according to all the rules will become a real fortress for its owners.

Choice of material: rounded log house or planed (chopped) log

All log houses are divided into 2 types of buildings:

the buildings from planed logs, that is, those that were processed manually;

buildings that were built from rounded logs.

In order to understand how to properly build a house from a log, you need to have an idea not only of external difference 1st warrant from the 2nd, and also constructive.

"Wild log house"

The history of architecture tells us that all log houses that were erected before the end of the 19th century were built from a “wild log”. This meant that the future building material was processed manually. The freshly cut log was stripped of its bark, while the bast layer should remain intact. It was he who protected the wood and its deep layers from moisture. This provided the log house reliable protection from fungus and mold, and increased their “service life” significantly.

The main feature of the “wild log” house was its bright and expressive shape. Non-cylindered beams gave such individuality. A sawn log tends to taper from bottom to top. After processing the wood with tools, such a difference in diameter still remained. The farther from the end, which was located at the roots, the thicker the log.

Houses made from “wild” logs completely bring their owners closer to nature

A tall tree can be processed and divided into several logs. Sometimes it produces 2 building elements, but the ideal would be to obtain 3 parts.

The classic rule for dividing timber as follows:

1 log – butt. This is the part that is located closer to the roots;

2 log – friend. This is the middle part of the wood;

3 beam - third or top. Accordingly, this is the last part of the log that approached the top.

For the construction of the house, 1 part was used - the butt. The log house in this place was the thickest, had high strength and the smallest change in diameter. And in order to compensate for those differences that remained, the beams were alternated when laying the walls: in one row the butt “looks” in one direction, in the next in the opposite direction.

When laying timber, each top log lies on the previous one with the opposite side

But, despite such opportunities to simplify the construction of a house with chopped wood, you should approach the selection of building materials very carefully. After all, you need to reproduce an even and durable structure from logs of different diameters. And this is not a simple task for them.

The construction technology itself has remained virtually unchanged since those times. Houses are built using the same method: “ wild log house» of different diameters are adjusted as close to each other as possible. It should be noted that houses built in this way are classified as elite and differ in price. This is dictated by a certain complexity and labor intensity of the process. After all, after erecting the frame, the house should last from 1 to 2 years. During this period, it will “shrink” in height to 10%. This factor should also be taken into account during design. So, in addition to spending time and effort on selecting building materials, it will take a lot of time and patience to see the result.

The completed house shows the location of the logs in relation to each other.

Rounded log

A rounded log house is a planed log in industrial conditions. On the machines the wood is brought to perfect condition: it becomes smooth and even along its entire length. On special machines, all the necessary grooves for fastening are cut into the timber. In this case, the dimensions are adjusted to the nearest millimeter, which minimizes inconvenience during construction. Building a house using such a log house is similar to assembling a children's construction set.

Rounded logs are made approximately the same size

For all its convenience, a rounded log house also has disadvantages. Ideal evenness in size and smoothness is achieved by removing several levels of wood. During the production process, “useful” layers (sapwood) are also removed, which protect the log from moisture, fungus and mold. Only the mature and hearty central part of the tree remains. She is not protected from anything external factors. Under such conditions, it is necessary to additionally impregnate the timber with antiseptics, antifungal and anthelmintic drugs. The result is a beautiful and lightweight material for building a house. The downside is the low level of environmental friendliness and, oddly enough, durability.

Walls made of rounded timber look smooth and neater

Selection of material for construction

In order to properly build a house from rounded logs, you need to know how to choose it and which material is more suitable in your region. Coniferous wood is most suitable for log houses. These are trees such as pine, spruce, cedar and larch. But if there are no desired options on the market, you can use oak, ash, aspen and others hardwoods. Spruce and pine are the most affordable in the price category. For this reason, they are the most popular.

Coniferous tree trunks are smoother and easier to process

When choosing this type of building material, the period of the log house is very important. It is necessary to choose timber that was prepared in winter. It is he who has the best moisture resistance indicators.

The region where the tree grows is also important. If possible, choose wood from the northern regions. This material is the most durable. Good options: Baltic pine and Canadian spruce. The option of coniferous wood, which was properly harvested in compliance with all conditions and requirements, from the central regions is also very good.

note the fact that the choice of beam diameter depends not only on the design decision, but also on climatic conditions. Main criterion- This Maximum temperature during the winter season.

if it's winter in your region not lower than -20 degrees– you can stop at a diameter of 200 mm;

when it's winter maximum -30 degrees– 220 mm;

at thermometer readings up to -40– choose a log that is at least 240-260 mm or more.

To lay the log frame, special equipment is used, which facilitates the construction of the house

The thickness of the log for building a house in the northern regions must be at least 25 cm

The main parameters of the log and its cuts are indicated in the table

It is also worth noting that by choosing a beam with a slightly larger diameter than recommended according to climatic zone, it perfectly compensates for temperature changes. The main thing is not to choose a material less than specified. Despite the fact that the house will be insulated by laying a jute or flax-jute gasket between the logs, it will not be able to provide the comfortable temperature that a log of the required size can provide.

Additional criteria, which you need to pay attention to when choosing a log house:

quality log yellow or dark yellow;

on the cut there should be no stains;

at good stuff core dark shade and occupies ¾ of the cut;

OK, when bitches are absent, and if they are present, they should fit tightly without gaps. The opposite picture indicates a damaged core;

best ringing for a log - ringing. Try hitting the end with an ax and listen to how it rings;

Availability cracks possible provided that their depth is no more than 1/3 of the log;

the timber should not be twisted: such a log during the construction of a house can only be used for laying the floor - for this it is cut into boards and bars.

The timber is selected according to several criteria; if at least one does not meet the standard, the material is changed to the required one

Construction technology

At first glance, all houses are built the same. But upon careful study of this issue, certain nuances and features of construction in one way or another come to light. Just like that proper construction log houses have their own distinctive characteristics.

Video description

Without knowing the technology of building a house, it is easy to make many mistakes. About them in the video:

Foundation

The main and most important element of any building is the foundation. Its depth and character depend on the soil on which the house will stand, on the nature of the material of the walls and on the number of storeys.

A log house is relatively light in weight. This design quality allows the foundation to be shallow. Almost all options existing species foundations are suitable for construction log house. Often they make a tape version. For difficult soils, deep excavation is performed. strip foundation or pile. You can also make a slab version.

It is worth noting that any version of the foundation should go 300-400 mm into the ground. After pouring it and completely drying, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing (roofing felt with mastic). This is a very important process despite the fact that the house is made of logs.

If a strip foundation is used, it begins with the arrangement of formwork

Walling

Upon completion of the foundation laying stage, they move on to the main thing - the construction of walls. It is important to know that the first crown (the first row of logs) is never placed directly on the foundation. First, a “backing” board is laid. It is made from linden timber 50-100 mm thick and at least 150 mm wide. Then they move on to assembling the walls from the rounded log house.

Mortgage crown on a shallow monolithic foundation

The first mortgage crown must be cut from below. Its end should match the width of the backing board. This is necessary so that the house rests firmly on the foundation.

Logs for walls are laid in circles (crowns). First, logs are laid that are parallel to each other. Then the other two sides, and insulation is laid on top. It is attached to the log using a construction stapler and should hang down at the edges by 5 cm.

Then the transverse sides of the house are laid, which will rest on the mortgage crown. And we repeat the “procedure” of assembling the house like a construction set.

The assembly of the house is carried out like a “constructor”: each log has its own place

Each of the logs has its own number, which makes it easy to determine where the beam should be located

Roof installation

A wooden house cannot be left uncovered. After laying the last crown, you must immediately begin installing the roof. When building walls from wood, you don’t have to lay the mauerlat (a special support beam for the rafters), but place the rafters directly on the log. The recommended distance between rafters is 600 mm. It is this gap that will ensure the stability of the roof and reduce the risk of its possible sagging.

Since wood is a “living” material, the rafters must be secured to sliding supports. Then they lay the waterproofing and then the sheathing. The sheathing pitch depends on the chosen roofing material. At the end, the house is “covered” with the chosen finishing material.

After the walls are erected, the assembly of the roof frame begins.

Caulk of a log house

Caulking a house is a separate important stage in its construction. Upon completion of the construction of the walls and roof, it is necessary to caulk all the insulation that was initially laid between the logs inside. To do this, using a special caulking tool, wrap the hanging 5 cm of the gasket downwards, and then push it inside between the cracks of the logs.

Having completed the caulking and roofing, the house is left to settle for a year. After a year, the caulking of the walls must be repeated. Some experts recommend repeating the “procedure” after a year of using the house with the heating on.

The insulation placed between the beams must be hidden

After caulking, the insulation is almost invisible, and there is no draft in the house

Installation of doors, windows, installation of ceilings and floors

Important points when installing doors and windows is that they are installed only after the house has completely settled and only in special casing boxes that are installed in openings in the walls.

Installation of doors and windows is carried out after complete shrinkage of the log house, with the exception of houses made of logs chamber drying– in this case they can be installed immediately

Such precautions are due to the fact that wood is a “living” building material and will completely shrink in size in another 5-7 years.

The floor is installed on joists that cut into the first, or better yet, the second crown. The mortgage crown must be well ventilated in order to be subject to rotting processes as little as possible.

After installation entrance doors, windows and flooring, you can implement a heating system, carry out communications, connect electrical equipment, and also install interior doors, slopes, baseboards and install plumbing.

There is no need to finish the walls. After all, the beauty of a log house is not only outside, but also inside. The bas-relief of slightly yellowish walls will fit into almost any interior. The main thing is to correctly emphasize the texture of the wood and complement the design with the necessary accessories. And your dream home is ready!

A log house in the forest over the water is a great place to relax from the bustle of the countryside

The inside of the house does not require additional finishing, and natural wood can complement the stone

One-story log house manual cutting in combination with stone finishing

The first floor is built of stone, the second - of logs: this combination also looks great

Video description

How a log house can turn out, see this video:

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses made of rounded logs from construction companies, presented at the exhibition of houses “Low-Rise Country”.

Conclusion

Despite the apparent simplicity of building houses from prepared rounded logs, there are quite a lot of pitfalls, which can only be avoided by experienced specialists who thoroughly know the technology. Therefore, the construction of a cottage must be entrusted to professionals who will not only do everything quickly and efficiently, but also give a guarantee for their work.

The intersection of corners in a wooden house plays a big role in the comfortable operation of the latter. They can take on the cold, become a breeding ground for mold, become damp and have other disadvantages. Corners cut into a paw or half a tree have such a set of serious defects.

They are used when they want to save on material. Indeed, the internal area and external squares remain the same as stated in the project. But this saving is mythical and corners in the paw are abandoned in favor of such a process as the technology of cutting a log into a bowl. The advantages of such an act are below.

Essence and varieties

What is the notorious chopping block? This is a semicircular recess of a log on the surface. When mating, the crowns become jammed, and after shrinkage, the strength of the bowl is extraordinary. The wood is marked in such a way that the end of the trunk to the bowl is 25-30 cm, that is, the corners will not be blown by all the winds, and, therefore, react less to temperature changes, which eliminates the appearance of condensation.

Canadian and Norwegian craftsmen, famous for their skill in hand-building houses, once simply adopted the cutting method from their Russian neighbors, and many centuries later the name of the technology is considered to have come from another country. Theirs, or more precisely our variety, is more reliable than an ordinary bowl, because it has a tail spike; when the wood shrinks and jams, it tightly fixes the crowns, not giving them a single chance to move.

In order to accurately cut corners, experience is required, since ignorant home-grown craftsmen are unlikely to succeed the first time. How to cut a log house into a bowl - the process is described below.

Chopping into a bowl - independent work

Correct marking is the key to accurate pairing. Venerable carpenters have for this special device- the devil. This is a hammer with two sharp rods that allow you to accurately outline the contour of the future bowl. But for the average person this is a complex process, so it is worth using ordinary measuring instruments and marking each log separately. Below is the process step by step:

You can cut a log frame into a bowl yourself with your own hands. But in the absence of skills, this work will drag on.

Suggestions from professionals

As already mentioned, there are a lot of varieties of such pairing. The cutting of a log into a bowl can be Russian, Canadian, or Siberian. The Norwegian carriage is unusually beautiful. It is a log of a special geometric shape chopped on all sides, which together gives a picture of carving. By consulting with specialists, you can choose an acceptable option for yourself, since complexity still affects the cost of the work. Solving the question of how to cut a log into a cup is difficult. But venerable carpenters, who have been building such houses for centuries, have accumulated a lot of useful tricks that lead efforts to a strong result of the entire construction and to help non-professionals. So:

• Inexperienced craftsmen can work with a hand saw for the first time to mark the notches. And choose the excess with a chisel.
• Trying on the next log will help you maintain accuracy. If this is tiring, then it is useful to make a template corresponding to the diameter. It is made from a sheet of tin, so that hardness is present.
• When trying on the top log, the joint is blackened with charcoal. Once picked up, it becomes clear how much more remains to be selected.
• Each crown is checked by level. If there is a discrepancy and if a lot is cut down, all hope is on the sealant.

It needs to be placed in two or three layers on the bottom of the bowl and thus the height will be maintained. You need to use jute or moss - they have good hygroscopic properties and will not allow even a drop of moisture to reach the wood.

• Canadian log cutting into a cup can become even stronger if the top of the tenon is slightly sharpened. The groove should be a couple of millimeters smaller. Thus, the tenon will fit tightly into the intended hole, and when it shrinks, it will securely jam.
• Before final assembly, the bowl seats should be impregnated with special compounds against biological threats. This will make the corners reliable in terms of penetration of damage from the outside.

Due to inexperience, owners can ruin a large amount of material. It will be even more offensive if it is a valuable coniferous species.

Therefore, it makes sense to order the work from professionals or purchase a ready-made house kit, chopped into a bowl. Such houses are assembled like a construction kit within a couple of weeks or a month, depending on the complexity of the work and the object.

The desire to build a house yourself is commendable. Manual cutting – good way training in building your own wooden house. Having considered all the options and made a choice in favor of the “bowl”, you can guarantee that the object will be durable, and most importantly, comfortable for living.