How to insulate a house from a log from the outside. Insulation of a log house from the outside and from the inside Insulation of the walls of a log house from the outside

One of the advantages of log houses is their high heat-saving characteristics.

However, over time, due to the shrinkage of the walls of the log house, gaps appear between the logs, the insulation between the crowns of the log house loses its properties and the building becomes cooler.

In a climatic zone with severe winters, there is a need for insulation of houses built from logs with a diameter of 180 mm or less.

In this article we will tell you how to insulate a log house from the outside and from the inside, what building materials are suitable for this.

Features of warming log houses

Features of warming houses made of rounded logs are due to the properties of wood.

• Wooden log cabins shrink by 6 - 8% during the first half of the year, so insulation work should not be started earlier than a year after construction is completed.

  Since new wooden houses hold heat well, there is no need to rush

• Wooden walls breathe. Depending on the season and weather conditions, the moisture content of the wood changes, so the logs must be ventilated. If the surface of the walls is closed with a vapor-tight material, excess moisture will have nowhere to go and the logs will begin to rot.

• Log buildings have an attractive appearance, so many homeowners do not want to degrade it by insulating facades.

  Internal insulation is less effective, but subject to certain rules, it brings success

Log house insulation

The main requirement for insulation of wooden structures is that they must be vapor-permeable.

This requirement is met by fibrous materials, the most common of which is mineral wool.

Mineral wool is made from fiberglass, slag and rocks.

The fibers are held together with organic binders and impregnated with water-repellent compounds.

• Glass wool is inconvenient to install because it has prickly fibers
• Slag wool is acidic and releases aggressive substances with increasing humidity.
• Stone wool is devoid of disadvantages, with the exception of those common to all fibrous materials

Mineral wool has the following characteristics:

• Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.038 - 0.053 W / mxK
• Sound absorption coefficient - 0.95
• Density - 75 - 200 kg / cu.
• Compressive strength - 0.04 - 0.06 MPa
• Vapor permeability - 0.49-0.60 Mg/(m×h×Pa)
• Maximum operating temperature - more than 800 degrees

The following grades of mineral wool are used in construction (the number in the designation corresponds to the density of the material):

• P-75 - for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces without load on the insulation (interfloor ceilings between joists)
• P-125 - for thermal insulation of inclined and vertical surfaces without load on the insulation (roof and walls)
• PZh-175 and PZh-200 - for thermal insulation of any surfaces with a load on the insulation (cement screed floors and flat roofs)

Stone wool P-125 is optimal for warming houses.

Insulation of log houses

To perform high-quality thermal insulation of the house, it is necessary to insulate all surfaces in contact with the external environment.

These include:

• Window and door openings
• Roof
• Walls

Work should begin with caulking the seams between the log crowns.

How to insulate a log house with your own hands

The walls are caulked from the street and from the inside. For this, jute and synthetic tape heaters or moss are used. Next, the openings, floors and roofs are insulated. Often this is enough. If not, proceed to the thermal insulation of the walls.

How to insulate a log house from the outside?

Insulation from the outside of the facade is performed as follows:

• Lathing bars are nailed to the walls horizontally with a step a couple of centimeters less than the width of the mineral wool slabs.

  Their width should be slightly greater than the thickness of the insulation layer.

• Plates are inserted between the bars. Laying is carried out in at least two layers with dressing of joints
• Insulation for a wooden house is covered with a windproof membrane from the outside.

  This film material protects mineral wool from moisture, but allows vapors to pass from the insulation layer to the outside. For the membrane to work correctly, it must be hung with the rough side out.

• A vertical crate is nailed to the bars for attaching finishing materials. Thus, a ventilation gap is created between the thermal insulation layer and the outer skin to ventilate the walls and insulation.
• Finishing materials are attached to the crate.

  It can be lining, imitation of timber or block house

Internal insulation of a log house

Since wood is a good heat insulator, when insulated from the inside, the dew point (the freezing point of water at which condensation forms) rarely shifts outside the walls.

Nevertheless, measures to remove moisture from the log house will not be superfluous.

To do this, experts recommend leaving a ventilation gap between the walls and the insulation of at least 2 cm. If air circulation is provided in the ventilation gap, then the insulation of the log house from the inside is possible using vapor-tight materials - polystyrene and others.

Warming is performed as follows:

• To provide a gap to the walls, a vertical wooden crate is nailed.
• A membrane is attached over it.
• With a step slightly less than the width of the insulation, a counter-crate is mounted
• Slabs of mineral wool or polystyrene are inserted between its bars in several layers.
• Hang a vapor barrier film
• Sheathe the walls with finishing materials - clapboard, drywall, chipboard, etc.

The technology of wall insulation with penofol is much simpler.

This roll material is made of foamed polyester, covered with foil on one side. Penofol is absolutely not afraid of moisture, which means it does not require vapor - waterproofing.

Penofol strips are attached to the slats, providing a ventilation gap, with foil towards the room. The material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm. The joints are sealed with construction tape. There should be a gap of 2 cm between the insulation and finishing materials.

The modern building materials market allows you to choose insulation for the outer walls of a wooden house for every taste.

In addition to the materials described for internal insulation, OSB, sprayed thermal insulation, etc. are used.

But stone wool remains the best insulation for wooden houses.

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside

Many of us in the construction of a house of wood I believe that this problem, like an external insulation log, is durable, cheap and, most importantly, will not be an additional inconvenience or even harm to the tenants themselves.

Not all insulating materials need to be suitable for certain environmental, durability, thermal protection and moisture requirements.

Why is it necessary to isolate a frame?

A wooden wooden house house is very special in aesthetics and retains heat quite well.

However, with a temporary reduction, a cutout is formed between the logs of the boundary seam, which is dangerous not only because it will let the cold through, but also retains dangerous moisture, which affects the life of the tree.

In addition, many of us live in rather difficult climatic conditions, so heating the frame from the outside is simply necessary to maintain an optimal microclimate in the house.

Proper insulation of a house made of wood in the future will save not a small coolant.

What is important to know about home isolation?

After the frame is created, the shrinkage process starts from 10 to 24 months.

The fact is that during this period the forests were in contact with humidity, hot summers, on the contrary, they dry up, which contributes to a change in their height, the appearance of cracks in the diaries outside and the gaps between them.

In this regard, work on external insulation can begin in less than a year or a year and a half.

It is also important to understand that the moisture content of wood varies depending on external factors (season, time) and that the chalet has used ventilation for a long time.

In no case should it be insulated with impervious materials, because moisture cannot get through and the frame will start to rot.

Thermal insulation for a wooden house

As we have already understood, the main requirement of an insulating material is breathability.

As an external insulation of logs, they are mainly used:

• Mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• Extruded expanded polystyrene;
• foamed heater;
• Polyurethane foam.

In any case, whatever material you choose, remember that there must be an air layer on the outside of the thermal insulation against the inverted material.

This will avoid excessive humidification and improve part of the future ventilation.

Additional information and video tips:

In any case, the process of heating a house requires the purchase of the following tools and parts:

• Anchor bolts;
• Waterproofing film;
• antifungal solution;
• Self-tapping screws;
• plumb bob;
• Level;
• Construction coupling.

Mineral wool heaters

This type of insulation is used to heat the frame from the outside most often.

It is non-toxic and non-flammable, but has many drawbacks.

When we are made of glass fiber and slag wool, then such materials (containing fine iron particles) can be oxidized and corroded even at high humidity and thus, choosing them as a heater, a good protection against water ingress.

Insulate on the outside of the house with mineral wool with good water repellency and on both sides.

Otherwise, the least moisture on the block of such insulation may cause failure and take away the heat retention properties.

Builders have a lot of respect for stone builders, being almost 95% basalt, which means it is virtually unaffected by moisture and fire.

A house insulated with stone wool blocks is better protected from temperature changes, severe frost or heat.

In addition, the stones have better sound absorption characteristics than their opponents.

Styrofoam

An equally popular material for frame insulation is expanded polystyrene. This is usually done in leaves per meter, and the thickness is often different - from 20 to 30 mm.

The use of foam in the frame heating process is very convenient due to its lightness and cutting comfort.

This is also attracted by the fact that it is completely safe for human health, but only up to 75 degrees Celsius.

After that, the foam extracts phenol vapor, which is very harmful to humans.

The main disadvantage of such a heater is good burnout, but for a wooden house this can be very dangerous.

Extruded expanded polystyrene

This may be the best of the external insulating materials described above.

It is similar to polystyrene, it is made of polystyrene, but the technology of its production is completely different.

Extruded polystyrene (EPS) is extruded.

The granules are first dissolved and a homogeneous viscous mass is obtained, which, upon receipt of certain chemical additives, becomes a material with strong intermolecular bonds.

Therefore, EP has the following advantages:

• Fully adapted Russian climate due to resistance to frost and not susceptible to decay;
• Resistant to the strongest temperature changes;
• Durability of the material (life expectancy up to 50 years when open);
• Easy installation;
• Democratic price, although more expensive than plastic foam;
• Without additional waterproofing, this is possible;
• Ecological composition;
• Absolute protection against moisture (this material does not absorb water, even if it is simply added to the bath).

Foam insulated insulation

This is a relatively new type of insulation in a design that itself is a layer of aluminum based polyethylene foam (on one side and on both sides).

Thermal insulation material insulated with foam retains heat one and a half times better than polystyrene and mineral wool.

It weighs a little, and its installation does not create any additional problems.

The only, but serious, shade of such a heater is absolute vapor tightness and gas tightness, which makes it suitable for heating the frame from the outside.

After using such a heater, you can make a "greenhouse" out of the house, where the microclimate and ventilation will be disturbed.

Polyurethane foam

This insulation is applied to the surface in the form of foam using certain cylinders, and after drying, a strong layer is formed that follows the shape of the wall.

Its advantage is in speed, after all, it does not need to be directed and monitored by the process of fixing blocks, as with all other types.

However, the use of polyurethane foam requires special equipment, which significantly increases the cost of such insulation.

The price is only negative, otherwise it does not have the same.

Think polyurethane foam:

• It lies easily and lies firmly on any surface;
• Fills in all cracks and cracks in magazines or magazines;
• Protects against corrosion (for example, the iron frame of a house);
• Quick and easy installation;
• Mold resistant, rotten, not suitable for insects or rodents;
• Long service life.

conclusion

The information in this article will help you make the right decision and choose the best exterior insulation material for your home.

Most importantly, remember that up to 40% of the heat in the room depends on it, as well as the comfort and comfort of life.

Heated corners

Freezing corners is a nuisance that Khrushchev's tenants may encounter as slab or stone buildings and country houses, even if they are made of wood, albeit stone.

Fortunately, this serious problem can be solved on your own.

Let's talk about how to deal with cold corners.

Thermal insulation in practice and in theory

Because of cold bridges, corners are the most vulnerable part of almost every home. These parts of the structural design increased the thermal conductivity.

Each vertical or horizontal angle represents a geometric cold bridge. If the building supplier is allowed - tightly sealed joints, gaps in concrete, insufficient mortar between bricks, lack of necessary insulation - problems cannot be avoided.

Where there is a cold, the wall surface temperature in winter can drop below the dew point and maintain room temperature indoors.

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In such spaces, due to the temperature difference, it forms in the form of condensate, which leads to the formation of a mold, and when it freezes, it turns into ice crystals.

The most logical solution in this case is to install insulation from inside the wall.

But each such insulation essentially identically insulates the wall from heat and cold.

Using a heater can make things worse as it will move the dew point to the inside of the wall. For example, if you warm the foundation in winter.

As a result, the cold air from the road will freeze because the heat from the apartment cannot penetrate the insulation.

Humidification and freezing continue, the heater becomes unusable and ceases to perform its functions.

In addition, the ice crystals will continue to break down the material of the wall, further increasing the cold bridges.

How to warm up the corners of the house?

The ideal way to solve the problem is to insulate the entire facade from the outside and tightly seal the gasket. Have a house to be renovated in a very realistic way, but in an apartment building you will have to ask the management company for help.

But don't give up.

And in a separate apartment you can get a good result. First you must remove the wallpaper. If there are no visible cracks, the walls are recorded with a hammer, where there are voids, the sound will be deaf. Then remove the plaster over the open cavities and dry the corner thoroughly.

If there is mold, which must be treated with special antifungal agents.

Sometimes the mold damage is so great that it is necessary to use acid, fire, a fan, or sanding the surface.

All cracks and voids are filled with foam or foam. This will prevent moisture from entering the room, even if there are cracks in the outer wall. And finally, clean off the remaining foam and intervene in the corner.

Work is best done in the warm season to completely get rid of moisture and mold in the room.

If very large cavities are found, they do not need to be filled with mineral wool or paste, as these materials tend to accumulate moisture.

It is better to use all the same prefabricated foams. It is resistant to moisture, does not rot and mold, has high adhesive properties, does not lose quality when frozen.

Modern thermal insulation

Today, manufacturers offer various materials that greatly facilitate the repair process and bring it to a whole new level.

For example, special thermal insulation materials are lightweight mixtures that use microscopic polystyrene granules or lightweight natural aggregates instead of sand.

This type of stucco is often simpler than usual, and is well used and replaceable.

Due to the presence of air pores, the hot mixture has a high vapor permeability, regulates condensation and ensures a healthy indoor climate.

Thermal layers of 50 mm for the effect of thermal insulation are equivalent to laying one and a half to two bricks or two centimeter layers of polystyrene foam, but this is not enough.

Recently, new materials have been released on the market, produced by various manufacturers under different brands, but combining them with the common name "liquid thermal insulation".

For such problem areas, it is indispensable as freezing in the corner.

The color-like insulating suspension is made up of hollow microspheres that effectively reflect heat radiation.

The microspheres are suspended in a binder composition of synthetic rubber or acrylic polymers, antifungal and anti-corrosion additives, and color pigments.

Such a composition gives the current thermal insulation properties of water resistance, flexibility, lightness and power, but this is certainly a publicity stunt.

But do not go for the current isolation, trust basalt.

The thermal conductivity of liquid heat insulators is much lower than for conventional heaters. A few layers of this color can replace 5-10 cm of polyurethane foam or 10 cm thick basalt, as the manufacturers claim, but this is often stupid.

It is used on almost all surfaces - concrete, brick, wood - because it has excellent adhesion, is non-toxic, does not contain harmful compounds and can be painted in any color (it's just a color).

In the domestic area, liquid thermal insulation is applied by any suitable method and then, after drying, covered with any final material.

Other corner heating solutions

The problem of freezing corners can be prevented even at the stage of building a house or renovating a new building.

According to physical laws, the temperature of the inner surface of the corner is always lower than the temperature of the walls, forming this corner.

Experienced designers argue that the corners of walls, both external and internal, should be rounded or rounded.

Rounding or mowing only the inner corner can reduce the temperature difference between the walls and the corner by 25-30%.

The same role is played by pilasters on the outer corners of the building.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of a wooden house: step by step instructions

This is not only a well-known architectural method, but also a method of additional heating.

You can use interesting design solutions. For example, in the corner of the ceiling, install drywall with lighting from ordinary light bulbs.

Work lamps heat the air inside the structure, pushing dew into the wall.

You can use the services of companies that offer thermal imaging when buying a house or an expensive apartment.

Experts will help detect all heat leakage and determine if builders' faults can be repaired.

It can protect owners from a range of home maintenance problems and save significant resources.

According to the technology of building wooden houses, the corners at the corners were fixed with special cutting "locks" with additional built-in natural insulation.

This safely protects the structure from freezing.

Village cottages in a modern building are very popular. Their natural environmental compatibility, low cost and excellent performance have attracted many developers.

How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside?

External insulation of the wooden frame

Thermal insulation of wooden houses is usually carried out a year or 2 years after the completion of construction, when a complete collapse of the frame occurs. Firstly, sealing work is carried out: all blown prints must be fixed in the walls, ceiling, floor coverings through which cold air enters and heat evaporates from the outside.

Morning, towed fibers, hemp and other heaters of natural and synthetic origin are used as sealing materials.

All gaps are tightly closed and blocked, treated joints and interference zones are covered with a special protective solution or combined foam.

In addition, a ventilated façade design can be implemented from the outside to insulate the wooden house.

The main advantage of this design is that the wood continues to cause excessive moisture and "breathes". Initially, the surface of the wood is protected from mold and fire, thereby inhibiting fire retardants and antiseptics.

In addition, the lining panel is designed with rock wool insulation and superfusion membrane.

It is necessary to insulate the carriage with mineral wool so as not to soften or mold the cork, otherwise the thermal insulation and sealing of the frame will be unreliable.

And finally, to safely insulate the house from the outside, the side is attached to the box.

Internal insulation of the wooden frame

Heating a private wooden house from the inside usually starts at the windows, because it is with a significant loss of heat.

The optimal solution is to install wooden frames with double glazed windows or plastic profiles. Internal registration of journals is carried out using vilaterm technology. The joints and beams between the beams are clogged with acrylic rubber seals and sealants (vilaterm), which significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the seams. The walls inside the rooms are covered with lining, block, decorative tiles or stones.

Thus, your home will be effectively protected from moisture and cold.

In connection with the insulation of the floor in a wooden house, most often you can do with ordinary carpet.

If there is obvious permeability in the corners and in contact with the walls, they can be treated with special sealants or a lock can be made. Ceiling heating in a wooden house is made with a mineral wool coating of 14-15 cm with additional ceilings at the corners and joints. Wet and swollen places are sealed with a patch or rubber-based tapes.

Recently, new ways of heating joints in wooden houses have appeared.

Thus, an effective method for sealing cracks and cracks with acrylic rubber is contemplated. This tool allows you to significantly reduce the cost of space heating and simply connect - a syringe or a spatula for construction directly to interplanetary seams and cracks.

Where to order log insulation from logs?

If you want to order the insulation of a wooden house in Kazan, and reliability, durability and tightness of connections are important to you, then it is best to trust this process to experienced specialists.

VKRASKE.COM will always help you isolate the structure with minimal cost, beautiful and timely. Your house will be warm!

Log houses or log cabins are the most comfortable, warm and environmentally friendly. Wooden walls perfectly retain heat. It is often heard from construction professionals that a log wall with a thickness of at least 24 cm has the same thermal conductivity property as brickwork 100 cm thick. And most people calm down on this.

The scheme of the insulated wall made of logs.

But often there are such cases when they bought or built a house of logs, lived in it for a little while, and when the first severe frosts came, they saw that the house was far from warm and seeps through from all the cracks. Then people begin to seriously think about starting to insulate their house, and the question arises: how to insulate a log house? What tools and materials are needed for this, what can be done and what is absolutely impossible?

Basic requirements for insulation

Insulation of a log house allows you to reduce heating costs and reduce heat loss. As you know, half of all heat loss comes from external walls.

For a moment, let's remember how our ancestors insulated a log house. For insulation, our great-grandfathers used a variety of materials: from "hut" (straw mixed in clay) to plastering on shingles made of wood. This helped to get rid of drafts, and the “breathing” of the walls did not suffer. And the exterior of the house was neat and tidy. However, in the modern world there are many more effective heaters for creating a comfortable atmosphere in a log house. Before proceeding to the process of insulation, it is necessary to know what properties the materials that the buildings should be insulated with should have. Here are the main necessary properties of insulating materials:

• the insulation must have the same vapor permeability as that of wood;
• the moisture resistance of the material must be high so that condensate does not accumulate and the wood does not rot;
• high-quality insulation must easily pass air;
• the insulation must be fire resistant and protect the wall from the appearance of fungus;
• the heat-insulating material should have a loose structure for a closer fit to the rounded wall and fill all the cracks.

At the present time, the range of various heaters is quite large. At the same time, only some of them are suitable for insulating a wooden building. Here they are:

Schemes of warming a house from a bar with different types of heaters.

1. The slag has a free-flowing structure, due to which it has the ability to fill all the bumps and cracks. The cost of slag or expanded clay is low.
2. They also insulate the house with sawdust. They are popular for their practicality, availability and low cost.
3. A popular insulation is ecological wool, which, when insulated, seems to merge with wood, which is why excellent and high-quality insulation is obtained. This cotton wool is made from fibers obtained during the processing of waste paper.
4. It is easy to work with mineral wool. It is fire resistant and does not rot. It does not grow fungi and mold.
5. Styrofoam is cheap insulation. But it is not recommended that they insulate wooden buildings, because it does not allow air and moisture to pass through, and the tree under it begins to rot.

Insulation of a log house is best done 1.5-2 years after construction is completed in dry summer time. Before starting work, the walls must be well treated with an antibacterial primer, preferably in two layers. The house is insulated from the outside with materials such as:

Installation of the crate for insulation is carried out in steps of 50-60 cm.

• wooden bars for the frame, which are selected depending on the width of the insulation;
• hydrobarrier and vapor barrier;
• material for facade decoration: plastic, siding, decorative stone, etc.;
• insulating material;
• various fastening components (self-tapping screws, dowels, brackets).

During preparation for insulation, it is important not only to choose a heater, but also the method of its lining. For example, construction professionals do not advise plastering the surface of the insulation because the wood under it will become moldy.

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Technique and features of home insulation

At the very beginning, you need to take care of sealing the windows. All cracks and gaps that are in or near the window frame must be sealed with sealant. Entrance doors are also sealed.

A window sill occupies a special draft-blown place.

Before starting the insulation of the house, it is necessary to insulate and seal the windows.

In windy weather, bring your hand to it and move it slowly from side to side. If you feel cold, then the insulation is broken under the windowsill. Take building foam and fix the situation. Russian winters are often very frosty, and therefore the foundation of the house can also completely freeze through. And if there is a basement or garage under the house, then its walls will begin to become covered with condensate and frost. From the foundation, the cold goes to the walls and to the floor, and from this the house becomes cold. Thus, in order to maximize, it is necessary to dig a trench around the house to the base of the foundation. Next, the foundation should be treated with a hydro-barrier mastic. And already on top of it, after drying, they are pasted over with ordinary foam. From above, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing film. However, experts do not advise insulating the foundation with ordinary foam in those places where there is a very strong freezing of the soil. A simple foam plastic has a weak structure, and it begins to burst from frost and pressure. In this case, professionals advise to insulate the foundation with extruded foam, which is resistant to frost and soil pressure. And it serves three times longer than conventional polystyrene foam.

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Further measures to protect the residential building

After the foundation is insulated, the log house of the house is treated with antifungal primer and an antiseptic for wooden surfaces to protect the house from fire and mold. Then all the cracks are sealed with mounting foam or silicone with antifungal properties. Next is the vapor barrier. By the way, roofing material, aluminum foil, glassine, etc. can be vapor barrier. Vapor barrier is necessary for ventilation of the walls of the house. If large logs were used for the log house, then this is very good and you should not worry. But if the walls are smooth, then a frame of slats is stuffed on them, 1 meter apart, which are covered with a vapor barrier. The insulating material itself is fastened with staples or studs. Next comes the manufacture of the crate for insulation. To do this, take bars 100 mm wide and 50 mm thick. They are attached with an edge vertically to the wall, at a distance of 100-103 cm from each other. Insulation material is placed between the bars. Moreover, the insulation is placed in two layers of 50 mm. Lay it should start from the bottom and to the top.

Waterproofing is pulled on top of the insulation. The waterproofing film on the inside allows steam to pass through, and on the outside it does not allow moisture to seep through. The hydrobarrier is attached to wooden beams (framework) using staples or small nails. The insulation should be laid with an overlap of up to 10 cm. The joints are connected with adhesive tape or adhesive tape. Laths 50 mm wide and 30 mm thick are sewn horizontally on top of the bars and the hydrobarrier. Such a rack frame is necessary for ventilating the space between the vapor barrier and the outer cladding. If normal air ventilation is created, the drying of condensate and moisture is much more effective. At the bottom of the frame, a fine-mesh metal mesh is applied to prevent various bugs and insects from appearing inside the insulation system. The next is the outer cladding. At the moment, the choice of facing materials is quite extensive. You can choose the material for every taste and for every budget. The main thing to think about is what functions should the outer skin perform? If just decorating the walls is one thing, if you need to keep the logs of the walls from atmospheric action and increase the insulating properties, this is another moment. But in both cases, there are two types of wall cladding. Wet, suggesting the use of various types of plasters, such as "bark beetle", "fur coat" and others. But, as mentioned above, experts do not recommend this method of decorating walls. Another way of cladding is dry, where the facade is sheathed with siding, plastic (lining), decorative stone or tile, which not only adds beauty, but also additionally warms the house.

How to insulate an old wooden house from the inside?

It is more economical, and, in general, more efficient, to begin with caulking housing with your own hands.

In square meters, to determine the labor costs of such work, at least, defies logic, as well as for the performer of this type of work, and in particular for the time spent on studying the topic itself.

For the reason that the house can be from a bar 150x150, or 250x250 millimeters, and possibly from logs of THREE hundred millimeters in diameter. If in square meters - then if there is a beam of 150x150, you will have 2 times more seams than in a log house of 300 mm logs.

Once you have decided how much time per day you want to spend caulking logs with your own hands? Then we need to calculate how many per day, without particularly straining, we can caulk the squares. If, it turns out (again, we consider, in square meters, of course) with a beam of 150 mm, we window, in a mediocre mode, 8-9 square meters together, and the cost of this kind of work is $ 8 per square. This is the starting point for entrusting this work to other people or doing it yourself. Well, and so on.

Insulation of an old wooden house from the inside.

The house is old, which means it is necessary to close up all the cracks, without exception, in the floors and windows.

If possible, change old wooden windows to double-glazed windows with selective spraying filled with agronomist. Place seals on the outer door.

Completely change the thermal insulation of the ceiling, before they were covered with any muck from sawdust, up to slag. Basalt can be used for the purpose of thermal insulation of the chimney, this improves draft.

There are other options for how to insulate an old house from the inside. Ecowool plus, cellulose. In addition, flax is similar, according to the formula with a log. Also cellulose, this one is paper, etc.

These heaters, unlike mineral wool-glass wool, are ready to continue to insulate, having absorbed much more moisture.

They are actually excellent at drawing in (and “binding”) and giving back water. That is, the possibility of creating condensate is sharply reduced.

The second positive point is hardboard (or other materials used, the same wood is acceptable), although it is by no means a vapor barrier, however, it has a relatively small ratio of transmission pairs, that is, to one degree or another it will restrain the flow of steam from the room into the insulation . Well, maybe it would be more correct to fill it in 2 layers. Including from judgments of no deflection of the wall.

Of course, there is a limit to everything. The use of these used materials in the absence of a vapor barrier in the bathroom or even in the kitchen will most likely lead to sad results.

The advantage of all this is that you do not need a very thick layer of insulation.

How to do all this, and if there is a desire to insulate further, switch to things in the fresh air. Foam boards, under the filling of the blind area, reduce the heat transfer of the base of the house. To dig a foundation from the outside with a shovel is quite fast if there is a great desire, of course.

If the wooden manor is lined with brick, then the brick itself does not allow the log to dry, as it draws moisture on itself, and according to this fact, the wood smolders under it, and conducts heat from the house much better to the outside. As a rule, the insulation separating the basement and the wall (ordinary roofing material) which had previously been transformed into dust.

In addition, one must always be aware of a simple thing! The movement of steam in the wall constantly passes from the building to the outside, that is, to the street, this circumstance is caused by the difference in temperatures in winter, and the air passes and spreads from the street to the house, through the lower part of the wall and out through the ceiling, this is justified by the pressure difference.

If you arrange a vapor barrier from the inside, so that the inner wall does not have the ability to absorb steam from the room and hide the thermal insulation behind it, in this case it will be hot in theory, HOWEVER, it will become sad to live, something like in a thermos, you will feel the difference instantly, and you will never get used to this circumstance.

This version is quite good for a hunting lodge, where you can stop by for the winter holidays to spend the night. He arrived, in three hours he instantly warmed up the house with an air stove or a fireplace and that's it, and after that the head will be ill not only from a hangover.

And besides, according to the economy, you will not win anything! Due to the fact that the wood and the insulation will be closed from 2 edges, the vapor barrier (steam barrier) from the inside, and the brick on the street, the moisture of the wall will still increase, and with it its heat conductivity of the damp wooden wall, in addition, the wood will become more smoldering . Therefore, you need to seriously think about it, do you need it?

If there is no insulated blind area near the building, then it is necessary to make it, preferably waterproof. And if it is, then make sure that everything is in order. The wall will be drier and will be the best heat insulator. In the attic, pour insulation into the ceiling ceiling, without covering it with anything and without putting anything on it.

Of course, expanded or slab vermiculite is better suited for this.

or perlite can be simple dry wood sawdust, however, large expanded clay for the 1st layer (thick layer) and small expanded clay for the 2nd top layer (thin layer) are also suitable, it would be nice to share them, some, in this case not expensive mesh, so that the small one does not wake up down.

In general, foam plastics and mineral wool are not suitable, in general, each of its varieties will require a fundamental brick or concrete wall and plaster on top of it. This is in order to constantly notice whether there are cracks on the wall, or not at all. Otherwise, this is a defect, and it is very unhealthy! By doing this, you will already feel the result!

Then about the walls: if you are doing internal repairs, then use warm plasters, surprisingly, this insignificant couple of cm will also bring results!

What do you need? I think that convenience and economy are in the absence of problems, so convenience is given not by a temperature meter that demonstrates +22, but by the very feeling of convenience, which is formed from numerous conditions.

And here is the main circumstance: - the temperature difference in the room should not be higher than 3 degrees C. And preferably a high temperature simply must not be under the ceiling, but near the floor!

The walls do not have to absorb infrared radiation! The tree itself is very suitable, however, if you plaster with plaster with a significant density, then you will ruin everything, and in this case it will be preferable to use a special warm one.

In this, the insulation of the walls from the inside of the building will be completed. Then come the windows and the door, directly the boiler and the heating system. The main thing is not to rush and keep in mind the priority: spending money on insulation. You are obliged not only to pay a minimum for heating, but also not to shorten the life of the house itself, and medicines for the treatment of the family are also expensive ... Muck in housing is not required!

According to the materials used, they lie like this: the service period is FIFTY years! This may mean that after FIFTY years they will only become, the original properties are deteriorating, or maybe they will become in a year, and in FIFTY years nothing will remain. Here's another: they prefer to indicate the features in the dried state, indicating moisture absorption, and calculate the real result, they give it immediately after a year of operation, guess who? Naturally to ourselves.

In the practice of insulating buildings from timber, customers often address the issue of high heat loss. Because, between the crowns with temperature differences, there are gaps that form bridges of frost, and a brick with a ventilated opening along the facade provides additional air draft, as well as in the chimney. The solution recommended by construction practitioners is the wet application of insulation on the walls, according to the facing skeleton, no less than 50mm and additional precise insulation with kraft paper.

What is very important in this matter, without exception, all the positive features of a wooden building are not violated, experts do not say that this happens everywhere, there are a lot of situations, as well as different buildings.

The old windows were changed to POLYVINYLCHLORIDE windows, that is, plastic ones. URSA material was fixed to the wall, then a base with a metal profile, then Knauf drywall. After this action, puttying, priming and gluing vinyl wallpaper. Thus, the Isospin vapor barrier film was used only in the bathroom and in the restroom. In other rooms, when installing drywall systems, the film was not used. 3 years have passed.

The building is warm, dry, the walls do not fade anywhere and are not covered with mold in any way. For the sake of interest, he removed the window sill and looked at what was inside the log. The beam is dry, the plaster is dry, the old wallpaper is absolutely dry, the URSA cotton wool material is also dry as gunpowder, the cardboard inside is as if it had recently appeared. Thus, here is the result - whether thermal film is necessary or not. I don't know personally. However, as the skill revealed, the walls were dried up from the inside.

The number of private houses in need of thermal modernization is incalculable - there are a lot of them in the country. These are old wooden log cabins, and houses lined with silicate bricks made of old gas silicate and cinder concrete, and the first Soviet frame houses, they are also “Finnish houses”. By modern standards, all these houses are buildings with a high level of energy consumption, and, therefore, with high heating costs. At current energy prices, the owners of such houses are forced to decide on their insulation. We studied the experience of our readers in this matter, and came to the conclusion that making even a very old house warm is not difficult ... If you know how.

Wooden houses

Many wooden houses today are already of a very respectable age; more than one generation has grown up within their walls. Therefore, before starting work on insulation, you need to check whether the lower crowns have rotted, whether the floor logs, floor beams, rafters and battens need to be replaced. Check the condition of the foundation - it may need repair. Only after eliminating all the identified defects, you can start warming.

Read more about foundation repair -.

Old log cabins, if they did not get water (and the woodworm did not settle inside) - can last for a long time. Additional insulation will allow their owners to significantly reduce heating costs. In addition, it becomes possible to radically change the facade of the house.

The only acceptable option for thermal modernization of a wooden house is insulation using ventilated facade technologies. As thermal insulation, it is necessary to use vapor-permeable basalt, cellulose (ecowool) and fiberglass insulation.

Some builders are ready to brew polystyrene almost in tea, proving its environmental friendliness. But for the insulation of wooden structures - it is definitely not suitable. As you know, a tree “breathes”, and if it is blocked from breathing with a vapor-tight foam plastic, then the steam from the rooms in winter will turn into condensate on the logs. Since this moisture will not be able to erode, the walls will begin to rot and the life of the old house will be significantly reduced.

For insulation, it is most convenient to use plate types of insulation. They are dense and rigid, so they will not shrink or deform over time. Another important issue that the homeowner has to decide is how thick the insulation layer should be. On a good note, this requires a special thermal calculation, which takes into account the regulatory requirements for the resistance to heat transfer of walls, attic floors, etc. If you do not involve a specialist in this, then an approximate calculation can be made on almost any website of the manufacturer of thermal insulation using an online calculator. In Poland, where the energy saving program is supported by the state, typical schemes have been developed for old standard houses: the insulation option, the insulation material and its thickness are selected taking into account the thickness of the walls and wall materials. With us, the thickness of the insulation layer depends on the thickness of the homeowner's wallet. Usually it is 5 cm, less often 10 cm, although 15 may be recommended.

The design of the ventilation facade assumes the presence of an air gap between the insulation layer and the outer cladding. Due to the constant air circulation in it, the insulation is always dry. For cladding, siding, flat slate, cement chipboard, lining, imitation of timber can be used.

Installation of such a facade is quite simple. Here is the most common scheme:

1. Lathing. It is recommended to install only a frame made of wooden beams. Condensation is possible on metal profiles in winter, and this is wetting of the insulation and walls. The crate is stuffed strictly vertically and in one plane. Any deviation will lead to distortions of the outer cladding. The minimum section of a bar is 50x50 mm. If the insulation layer is planned to be made thicker, you can use a more massive bar - 40x100mm, for example. The pitch of the bars is selected taking into account the width of the selected insulation so that it can be laid without squeezing or wrapping it from the sides. The mineral wool is fixed to the wall with dowels.

2. Wind protection. It is a superdiffusion membrane that allows vapors to pass from the insulation into the ventilation gap, while protecting the insulation from external influences. It is fastened with overlaps and gluing the seams over the insulation using a stapler and slats 5 cm thick. The rail between the membrane and the cladding provides free space for ventilation - a ventilation gap. The movement of air in this case occurs naturally - through the ventilation slots at the top and bottom of the facade cladding.

3. Installation of facing. Each type has its own instructions, but the quality of installation of any facade material will depend primarily on the correct installation of the crate.

On the lining, by the way, you can save a lot. One of our regular readers, Dmitry, made a facade from… flat slate! Here is what he writes:

“I inherited the house. The log house is still strong, well preserved under the lining. But I decided to change the appearance, and at the same time - and make the walls warmer. I did not want to spend money on expensive materials, so I chose the cheapest option of all possible. I made the crate from a bar, laid rolled glass wool inside, covered it with a windproof film. But as a cladding, I used asbestos-cement flat slate. It is easy to mount, it is normally sawn, drilled. He fixed it to the crate with self-tapping screws. After installing the slab, I primed, puttied and painted. It turned out very cheap - only $ 1,200.

Finnish house

For the first time such houses on the territory of the former USSR appeared after the Second World War as a variant of prefabricated housing for temporary residence. The building was a wooden frame-shield structure. The frame of such a house is sheathed with plywood from the inside, and outside, along the vertical bars of the crate - with wooden "siding". The insulation inside the frame is 3 layers of soft fiberboard 18mm thick, installed "in the thrust" in several layers with air gaps. Without vapor barrier. It is clear that such houses were cold and ventilated. Trying to make them warmer, the owners lined the walls with bricks. Admittedly, it didn't help much. A more effective way of modernization - replacing the insulation inside the frame - was tested in practice by our reader, Valentin. He shared his experience of warming the parental home:

“I decided to carry out the modernization from the inside of the house. The opening of the walls showed that the wooden parts of the frame are in excellent condition - everything is dry, whole, strong. And this despite the fact that the house was built back in 1958. I threw away the old insulation, installed 10 cm stone wool in its place, covered it with a vapor-tight film, and nailed the old plywood. The walls were additionally lined with plasterboard. The house has become noticeably warmer, however, in order to meet today's requirements for thermal resistance of walls, it would be necessary to sacrifice the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house and add another 50 mm of insulation to the walls. (You can read more about the reconstruction of the Soviet "skeleton").

stone houses

Houses from gas silicate blocks were built during the Soviet era. The block was placed on the mortar and faced with bricks. Expanded clay was sometimes poured into the gap between the wall and the cladding - it was believed that it would be warmer. In fact, the effect of such a heater is almost zero.
There are several ways to insulate such houses.
The first one, which Vladimir from Zhitkovich shared his experience of using, can be considered the simplest, fastest and least expensive. But is it effective?

“The method is simple - penoizol is pumped into the “well” between the brick and the block. It is also called liquid foam. We have a lot of people who have tried to warm up like this. The price is small - they took only $ 300 for my small house. Two people arrived, drilled holes in the walls and pumped insulation inside with a compressor. It looked like a diluted and foamed Fae. The meaning is the same as that of mounting foam - penoizol expands inside and fills the entire space with itself, after which it freezes. However, it did not get the expected effect, it became noticeably warmer only after replacing the windows. Recently I managed to look inside the wall - penoizol turned into dust in 10 years. So this method cannot be called effective.
Georgy, the owner of a large cottage near Minsk, insulated the house from the outside with foam plastic and was pleased with the result:

“Before that, it was cold all over the house, the walls were icy. And at the same time, the boiler worked at the limit. Gas bills were just atomic. After pasting the walls with foam plastic (8 cm thick), it became noticeably warmer. Insulation work, glue, dowels, mesh and the foam itself cost about 7 thousand dollars - the house is huge, three levels. Now we have to replace the expanded clay in the attic with normal insulation.”

Thermal rehabilitation of a house is a responsible matter and simple at first glance. In addition to walls, it is necessary to insulate the foundation, floors, ceilings, change windows and doors, change boiler equipment. All this modernization costs a pretty penny, but very quickly justifies itself.

Before installing a ventilated facade, you should consider how to insulate a log private house from the inside. If you choose the right materials and follow the technology of thermal insulation, this will be enough to provide protection to the building. In this case, it is not necessary to spoil the facade of the structure.

Thermal insulation of a private house made of logs implies the insulation of all surfaces: walls, ceiling, floor and roof. Experts do not recommend laying building material inside the walls, as the wood will begin to rot.

Thermal insulation of the roof and ceiling

The scheme of insulation of the roof and ceiling. Click on the photo to enlarge.

Insulation should begin with the roof and ceiling, because it is through the roof that most of the heat escapes. In a one-story building with an attic, the procedure begins with the laying of a waterproofing film on the attic floor. As a heater, mineral wool, sawdust or seaweed are used, which are distributed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe installed film. The layer thickness can vary from 150 to 250 mm. Boards are laid on top of the insulation so that you can walk in the attic of the house.

If instead of an attic in the house there is an attic floor, it is necessary to insulate not only the interfloor overlap, but also the roof slope. For a wooden floor, for this purpose, bulk material is used, which is placed from the inside between the lags, and for concrete - slabs or rolls. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer varies from 50 to 100 mm.

Insulation of the roof slope of a log building begins with the laying of a waterproofing film. Next, a heater (for example, mineral wool) is laid on it with a layer of 150-200 mm. A vapor-tight membrane is attached from above, the task of which is to protect the heat-insulating material from moisture. At the end, the crate is mounted and the room is finished.

Internal wall insulation

Since thermal insulation from the inside of log walls is impossible, they can be caulked.

Attention should be paid to door and window openings, for which interventional insulation or mineral wool is used. Experts do not recommend the use of mounting foam, because it quickly breaks down and loses its properties due to the constant movement of a log house.

Finishing the walls of a structure made of logs can be done using wooden lining. But between it and the base wall of the house you can not mount a heater. This kind of finish will increase the thickness of the wall, and it will prevent heat loss.

Before performing the insulation of a log house, it is necessary to prepare the surface from the inside:

• clean the walls from dust and dirt;
• treat the wood with an anti-insect composition;
• apply liquid to the walls that prevents decay;
• fill the gaps with jute fiber.

After the implementation of the above procedures, you can begin the insulation of the walls.

First of all, you should equip a waterproofing barrier. Next, a vertical crate is installed from a beam with a section of 5x5 cm and a step of 30 cm. Before installation, the beams must be treated with compounds that will protect them from burning and decay.

Before laying mineral wool on the crate, the material is cut into strips of the required length. Their width by 20 mm should exceed the distance between the bars. Each strip is carefully laid and fixed with anchor bolts so that the material holds firmly and provides reliable insulation.

A vapor barrier film is mounted on top of the crate and heat-insulating material, which will protect the mineral wool from moisture and prevent its small particles from entering the air. The film is fixed with a construction stapler. The material is laid with an overlap of up to 10 cm in order to reliably protect the insulation and prevent the house from rotting from the inside.

To sheathe the premises of the house on top of the heat-insulating cake, the crate is again installed using 3x4 cm bars. Wooden lining can be used for the interior lining of a log building.

Wall insulation with foam

Insulation of a log house with foam plastic. Click on the photo to enlarge.

It is also possible to insulate the walls with the help of foam. Since the thermal insulation will be carried out from the inside of the building, sheets of smaller thickness should be used than for external decoration. To calculate the required amount of foam, it is enough to multiply the height of the walls of the house by the length.

Before insulating the walls with foam plastic, the surface is prepared: cleaned of dust and dirt, treated with emulsions. Experts note that the insulation of a private building with foam plastic is not the best option, because it is not an environmentally friendly building material and is easily amenable to the combustion process. However, thermal insulation with foam plastic has advantages:

• reduction of heat loss, even if the cracks in the walls were not sealed before the start of the insulation process;
• a heat insulator of small thickness is able to protect the house from the cold;
• the log house quickly warms up, even if it is rarely used;
• ease of installation of insulation material;
• a good level of sound insulation is provided.

Floor insulation

Scheme of wooden floor insulation. Click on the photo to enlarge.

In order for a log house to be as warm and comfortable as possible, it is necessary to insulate its floor. In the process, it is important to follow the technology of installing flooring on the ground. First of all, backfilling is carried out, then a waterproofing film is installed, and finally, the insulation itself.

Wooden floor insulation

If the floor is wooden, the heat-insulating material is laid between the lags with a layer of 100-150 mm. After equipping the draft and finishing floor. If it became necessary to insulate the concrete floor, extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene should be laid between the main layer of concrete and the thin one. The thickness of the plates should be 50-80 mm.

Often, the insulation of a log house is carried out by installing a “warm floor” system, then there is no need to install a ventilated facade. A properly equipped system can provide comfortable living in the house, so you don’t have to sheathe the walls from the outside.