Is it possible to make a receiver from a fire extinguisher. We make a compressor from an expired fire extinguisher

A simple air compressor, with which you can perform paint work or pump up car tires, can be made with your own hands from improvised materials. A homemade compressor will work no worse than its factory counterparts, and the cost of its manufacture will be minimal.

You can make a mini compressor for connecting a spray gun or an airbrush from a car pump, having improved it a little. Modernization of the compressor will increase its power (performance) and will consist in adapting it to a voltage of 220 V (instead of 12 V), connecting the device to the receiver and installing automation.

Adaptation of the device for voltage 220 V

To connect the autopump to a 220 V network, you will need to find some power supply (PSU), the output of which will be 12 V and the current strength suitable for the device.

Advice! For this purpose, a power supply from a computer is well suited.

You can find out the value of the current consumed by the device by looking at its nameplate. In this case, the power supply from the PC (see the figure above) will be quite enough in terms of current and voltage.

So, if you insert the plug of the electrical cord into the PC power supply and turn it on, then nothing will happen. This is because the PSU will not turn on until it receives a signal from the PC. To simulate turning on a PC, on the connector coming out of the PSU, you need insert a jumper. You will need to find among the many conductors one green wire, and the second black, as shown in the following photo.

These wires can be cut and twisted, but it is better to short them with a jumper.

Because the pump has car cigarette lighter plug, then it can be cut off, and the device can be connected to the corresponding color with wires from the PSU.

But it would be better if you buy a car cigarette lighter and connect it to the power supply, and connect the device itself using a standard plug.

There are 3 wires coming out of the cigarette lighter: red - “+”, black - “-” and yellow - “+”, designed to connect the LED. Connect the wires to the cigarette lighter, observing the polarity (see photo below).

If you insert the plug from the device into the cigarette lighter, you will get a 220 V electric air compressor that can not only inflate tires, but also work with an airbrush.

Connecting additional elements

To connect the device to the receiver, it is necessary to assemble the structure shown in the diagram below.

This binding includes the following elements.

  1. cross, which has all outputs with VR1/2. Marking means: "BP" - internal thread, "1/2" - thread diameter in inches.
  2. Tee, has all outputs with HP1/2 (“HP” – external thread).
  3. valves in the amount of 2 pcs. (VR1/2 - VR1/2). Designed to block the movement of air in both directions. The double marking means that there is an internal thread on both sides of the valve.
  4. . Designed to allow air to flow in one direction only. You can install a simple spring valve BP1/2 - BP1/2. If you plan to work with a pressure of 6-7 bar, then you need to select a check valve that does not have plastic parts.

  5. straight nipple, is an adapter with 2 external threads (HP1/2).
  6. adapter nipple HP1/2 - HP1/4. Allows you to change from one external thread diameter to another.
  7. Extension(60 mm) HP1/2 - HP1/2. This is the same nipple, only straight. That is, the thread at both ends has the same diameter.
  8. Reducing coupling. It is an adapter from an internal thread of one diameter to an internal thread with another. In this case, from BP1/2 to BP1/8.
  9. Tee, which has all outputs already with a HP1 / 8 thread.
  10. Coupling straight BP1/8 - BP1/8. Has 2 identical internal threads.
  11. Hose adapter HP1/8.
  12. Pressure regulator (pressostat) with moisture-oil separator. The pressure switch allows you to maintain the air pressure in the receiver is not lower than the minimum and not higher than the maximum allowable level. The water separator can be omitted if the unit is to be used as a tire inflation pump. When using a painting unit, the installation of an oil-moisture separator is a prerequisite.

    The above piping scheme assumes 2 outlet fittings: the first for air outlet to the spray gun (airbrush), and the second for tire inflation.

  13. adapter nipple HP1/4 - HP1/8.
  14. Futorka(HP1/4 - BP1/8), is an adapter from a larger diameter of the external thread to a smaller diameter of the internal thread.
  15. Pressure gauges. These devices allow you to visually control the level of air pressure in the receiver and at the supply to the line.

When assembling all elements, it is necessary use thread sealant, for example, fum-tape. Pressure gauges can be connected through high pressure hose cuts. The latter should be pulled onto the adapters and fixed with clamps.

Pressure gauges can be screwed directly onto the thread, without the use of hoses, if it is not necessary to bring them to the front panel of the unit.

How the compressor piping assembled according to the diagram looks like is shown in the following photo.

The receiver for an autocompressor can be made from a large-diameter metal pipe welded on both sides, a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder. If the compressor is supposed to work only with an airbrush, then an ordinary tubeless wheel from a car can serve as a receiver.

Important! When selecting a container for the receiver, one should take into account the fact that the autopump can work no more than 10 minutes. continuously. Accordingly, the volume of the receiver should also be small (about 20 liters) so that the device can raise the air pressure in it to the required level before 10 minutes have passed.

A simple version of the unit from a fire extinguisher / gas cylinder

Making a compressor with your own hands using a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder as a storage tank for air is quite simple. For example, the compressor unit itself, if you want to make a powerful unit, you can take from Zilovsky compressor. But first it needs to be tweaked a bit.

Drill 2 holes in each connecting rod (assembled, including liners) and 1 hole in each connecting rod cap.

During the operation of the unit, the oil in the crankcase will flow through these holes to the liners and reduce friction between them and the crankshaft.

If you take receiver fire extinguisher, then you first need to remove all unnecessary parts from it, leaving only the container itself and the lid.

The cast iron cap should be threaded ¼ inch. Also, under the cast-iron cover, it is necessary to lay a rubber gasket, if it was not there, and tighten the cover, using fum-tape to seal the thread.

The steps for connecting all the strapping elements were described at the beginning of the article. But, since this unit is made from a ZIL 130 compressor, and is more powerful than the previously considered one, it will require the installation of a safety (emergency) valve. It will relieve excess pressure if for some reason the automation does not work.

You can also do gas bottle compressor. But first you need to release gas from the cylinder, and then twist the valve. Next, you need to completely fill the cylinder with water to remove residual gas. The container should be rinsed with water several times and, if possible, dried. Usually, a gas burner is installed under the cylinder and all moisture is evaporated from the container.

A futorka is screwed into the hole where the valve was placed, and a crosspiece is screwed into it, to which the automation and the entire harness are attached. A hole must be drilled in the lower part of the cylinder and a condensate drain fitting welded to it. You can install a regular water tap on the fitting.

For fixing on the receiver of the engine and the compressor block, a metal corner frame. Mounting bolts are pre-welded to the cylinder. The frame will be attached to them (see photo below).

Important! The engine for this unit must have a power of the order of 1.3 -2.2 kW.

You can also make a compressor for inflating tires yourself chainsaw which is beyond repair. The device is made from an engine, that is, from a piston block: the outlet hose is connected through a check valve instead of a spark plug, and the exhaust gas hole is blocked. To rotate the crankshaft, you can use either an electric motor or a conventional electric drill.

An air compressor made from a refrigerator, or rather, from its unit, is the most silent. But you should know that such a device not high performance. With it, you can only inflate car tires or work with an airbrush. For the normal operation of various pneumatic tools (screwdriver, grinder, spray gun, etc.), the performance of this unit is not enough, even if you connect a large volume receiver to it. Although on the Internet you can find designs consisting of two or three compressors connected in series, connected to a large receiver.

So, the unit removed from the refrigerator has start relay with power cord. Also, 3 copper tubes come out of the apparatus. Two of them are designed for air inlet and outlet, and the third (soldered) is for filling oil. If you turn on the device for a short time, you can determine which of the two tubes sucks in air, and from which it is blown out.

The following figure shows how to assemble the entire structure consisting of the unit, receiver and pressure regulator with pressure gauge.

Advice! Instead of a filter at the outlet, which sometimes bursts due to high pressure, it is better to install an oil-moisture separator. Its presence is mandatory if the device will be used for painting.

Installed on the inlet pipe air filter to prevent dust from entering the unit. To automate the process of pumping air, you can install automation in the form of a pressure switch.

DIY high pressure compressor

The high pressure compressor (HP) is made from two-stage compressor head AK-150.

As a drive, you can take 380 V motor, 4 kW. The rotation of the engine shaft is transmitted to the shaft of the piston group by means of an eccentric, which also serves as a drive for the plunger-type oil pump. It creates an oil pressure of about 2 kgf / cm 2.

Compressed air, leaving the last stage, enters through an adapter with a pressure gauge installed into the fitting of a liter cylinder, which is installed in its lower part. It also has a condensate drain valve. The balloon is filled with polished glass chips and acts as a moisture separator.

Air exits from the top of the cylinder through the finger fitting. Compressor cooling is water. After 45 min. operation of the unit, the water heats up to 70 degrees. The author of this unit claims that during this time it is possible to pump up 1 cylinder per 8 liters and 2 cylinders per 4 liters up to 260 atm.

Many craftsmen know that you can make a compressor from the refrigerator with your own hands! Can . But, few people know exactly how to do it! In this article, we will try to provide an exhaustive answer on how to make a compressor with your own hands, so that everyone can create this equipment at home.

After all, if you figure it out, then, in essence, an air compressor is needed in every garage. With the help of a compressor, you can pump up the wheels without visiting a service station or tire shop, supply air to a working pneumatic tool, or simply blow dust off the surface to be treated. So, consider the installation option for painting.

Factory or homemade compressor

There is a list of specific requirements for a painting station. The main condition is the need for a uniform supply of air, without any impurities. Among the standard defects that occur due to the presence of foreign particles include graininess, shagreen or cavities on the enamel coating. In the case of uneven ink supply, streaks or a matte heel may form.

Of course, if you pay attention to branded air compressors, then such installations are equipped with all the necessary functions for the quality work of the airbrush. The only drawback of such units is their cost.

To save money and at the same time create a functional model that will not be inferior to professional equipment, you need to familiarize yourself with the theoretical information base or watch a video on the topic “compressor for painting a car with your own hands”.


The principle of operation of any model, regardless of whether it is homemade or factory, is the same. The reservoir is pressurized. The method of air injection is different (manual, mechanical). In the case of manual feeding, there is a significant savings in money, but a lot of energy is wasted. After all, the process requires constant monitoring.

Automatic inflation avoids these disadvantages, except that the air compressor oil requires periodic replacement. Thus, there is a uniform supply of air to the switchgear. In theory, this looks extremely simple, so it is possible to create a workable compressor station in a short time.

Do it yourself

So, we choose the manufacture of a painting installation from a conventional car chamber. List of required material:

  1. Car camera that acts as a receiver;
  2. A pump with a pressure gauge that acts as a supercharger;
  3. chamber nipple;
  4. repair kit;
  5. Ordinary awl.

Now you can start manufacturing the compressor station. The chamber must be checked for tightness, for this it needs to be pumped up. If there are air leaks, it is necessary to solve this problem, either by gluing or by vulcanizing with raw rubber.

After that, in the manufactured receiver with an awl, you need to make a hole. A nipple will be placed here, through which a uniform jet of compressed air will exit.

An additional fitting is attached by gluing. A repair kit will help in solving this problem. Then the fitting is connected to the spray gun. To check how the air flow comes out, unscrew the nipple.

At the same time, the native nipple remains, it will serve as a valve and hold excessive pressure. In the end, you need to determine the level of pressure by spraying paint on a metal surface. If the enamel lays down evenly, then the installation works well.

In addition, the pressure value can be checked using a manometer. But, its level, even after pressing the aerator key, should not be spasmodic.

It is not difficult to design a compressor, but after its manufacture, anyone can make sure that repairing or painting a car will become much more effective than it was with a spray can.

Among the last parting words should be attributed to the fact that it is necessary in every possible way to avoid getting water or dust into the car chamber. So that these particles do not subsequently enter the spray gun, otherwise you will have to re-paint.

As a result of proper operation, the created installation will work for a long time, but it is better to automate air pumping.

Semi-professional blower

Experts have repeatedly made reviews that home-made compressor units have a longer service life. At what comparison was made with domestic and foreign models.

This, of course, because the installation is made by hand. Therefore, we will consider the option of how to make a compressor from a refrigerator, which will not be inferior even to products of famous companies. So, for its manufacture, the following list of materials is needed:

  • Receiver for the compressor;
  • pressure gauge;
  • Relay for pressure control in the compressor;
  • Thread adapters;
  • Fuel filter (gasoline);
  • Reducer with oil and moisture separating filter;
  • ¾ inch threaded water cross;
  • Motor for compressor unit;
  • Clamps are automobile;
  • Engine oil (10W40);
  • Switch (220V);
  • Oil resistant hose;
  • brass tubes;
  • Regular syringe;
  • Thick board;
  • Compressor rust converter;
  • Power system filter (diesel);
  • Metal paint;
  • Nuts, washers, studs;
  • Wheels for furniture;
  • Sealant, fum tape;
  • Needle file.

working mechanism

To simplify the procedure, a compressor from an old Soviet-style refrigeration unit can serve as an engine. There is one positive point here, namely the presence of a compressor start relay.


Soviet models outperform their foreign competitors by generating higher pressure. After removing the executive unit, it is necessary to put it in order, freeing it from accumulated rust.

A rust converter will help treat the compressor to avoid further oxidation. Thus, the body of the working motor will be prepared for subsequent painting.

Installation scheme

After completing the introductory part, you can begin to change the oil. After all, if you do not prevaricate, then it is not enough which refrigerator managed to undergo regular maintenance or oil changes. However, such a course of events is also quite justified, because in this case the system is completely isolated from atmospheric influence.

So, semi-synthetic oil is quite suitable for this procedure. Moreover, it is no worse than compressor oil, and has a sufficient amount of useful additives.

We go further and finds 3 tubes on the compressor, 2 of which are open, one is sealed. In our case, open tubes will be used for air circulation (inlet and outlet). To understand how the air moves, you need to apply power to the compressor for a short time. Then remember or write down which air duct draws in air, and which, on the contrary, releases it.

The purpose of the sealed tube is a routine oil change. Therefore, the closed end should be removed. A needle file will help us with this, which needs to be filed in a circle around the tube. When doing this, make sure that the chips do not get inside the compressor.

After that, it is necessary to break off the end of the tube and drain the oil into any container in order to determine its volume for subsequent replacement. Then we take a syringe and fill it with semi-synthetics, but in a larger volume than was drained.

When the oil is filled, you need to turn off the engine lubrication system. This can be done by selecting the screw you need, after which this screw is wrapped with fum tape and twisted into a tube. It's time to remind you that oil drops will sometimes seep out of the outlet air pipe of the supercharger.

Therefore, an oil-moisture separator for the compressor will come to the rescue here.

When the indicated work is completed, it's time to start assembling the installation. You need to start by strengthening the engine with a starting relay on a wooden base, so that it is in the same position as it was on the frame.

This is necessary because the compressor relay is sensitive to attitude. To be more precise, an arrow should be drawn on the top cover. It is important to be accurate here, because the correct switching of modes will depend on the installation of the compressor.

Air tank

An excellent solution to the problem would be cylinders from fire extinguishers. It depends on their ability to withstand high pressure, in addition, the cylinders have a significant margin of safety, they are great as attachments.

So, let's take the OU-10 fire extinguisher as a basis. Its working volume is 10 liters. According to the technical specifications, the cylinder can withstand pressure - 15 MPa. Now you need to unscrew the locking and starting device from our workpiece, and then screw in the adapter.

In this case, if traces of corrosion are detected, it is necessary to remove them with a rust converter. Of course, external removal is not difficult, but internally it will require patience. Therefore, we fill the converter inside the cylinder, and shake the contents.

After cleaning, you can screw in the water cross. Thus, two working parts of our compressor unit were prepared.

Mounting parts

To make it easier to store and move work parts, it is best to place them on the same base. As mentioned earlier, you need a wooden board, which will serve as the basis for securely fastening the engine, as well as the fire extinguisher body.


Therefore, as an engine mount, we will use threaded studs that need to be threaded into pre-drilled holes. Of course, plus everything you will need nuts (washers).

Then you need to place the receiver in a vertical position, 3 sheets of plywood will come in handy here. In this case, in one sheet you need to make a hole for the balloon. The remaining sheets are fastened with screws to the main board and glued to the sheet that holds the receiver.

But, on the eve, you still need to hollow out a recess in the wooden base under the bottom of the receiver. And finally, in order for the design to be maneuverable, you need to fasten the furniture wheels to its base.

After all that has been done, you need to ensure that the system is protected from possible dust ingress. A gasoline coarse fuel filter will come to the rescue. It will act as an air intake.

A rubber hose and an inlet tube of the supercharger will be involved here. It should be noted that there is low pressure at the inlet of the compressor station, which means that it is not necessary to strengthen the contact with the help of automobile clamps.

Thus, we have created an inlet filter for the compressor unit. An oil and moisture separator should be installed at the outlet of the station, which will block the ingress of water particles. Here the power supply filter will be used. Due to the fact that the pressure at the outlet of the compressor station is increased, automobile clamps will be used from this place.

So, the turn came to the oil and moisture separator filter. In this case, it must be connected to the input of the reducer, which is needed to decouple the tank and the pressure output of the supercharger. This means that we screw the outlet into the previously prepared crosspiece on the left side, and screw the pressure gauge on the right, thanks to which we can control the balloon pressure. On top of the cross you need to screw the adjusting relay.

The presence of a control relay will make it possible to set the range of the height of the receiver pressure, as well as to interrupt the power supply circuit in the supercharger in time. When it comes to the actuator it is recommended to use PM5 (RDM5).

With the help of these devices, the compressor will turn on if the air pressure in the tank drops below the set mark and turn off if the set parameters are exceeded.

The required pressure is set on the relay using two springs. The function of the large spring is to create a minimum pressure, while the small spring is responsible for regulating the upper limit, in fact, setting the shutdown limit of the compressor unit.

RM5 (RDM5) were originally produced for use in the water supply network, in fact, these are ordinary two-contact switches. In our case, one contact is used to connect the zero of the 220 V network, while the second contact goes to connect to the supercharger.

We conduct the network phase through a toggle switch to connect to the second input of the compressor station. If there is a toggle switch in the electrical circuit, we will be able to quickly disconnect the system from the network, which will save you from running towards the outlet.

Naturally, all connections must be soldered and carefully insulated. After that, you can paint the finished installation and carry out test tests.

Adjusting the pressure

So, after assembling the structure, it is quite natural to check it. To do this, you need to connect an airbrush, or alternatively an air gun. Then, without including the toggle switch, we connect the plug to the network.


We set the control relay at the minimum pressure, and we supply power to the supercharger. Do not forget the pressure gauge, which allows you to control the pressure in the tank. After we managed to make sure that the relay turns off the engine, we need to check the tightness of the connections.

A classic soap solution can help here. If the system has passed the leak test, the remaining air can be bled from the tank chamber. It should be noted that in the event of a pressure drop below the set limits, the relay should start the compressor. In case of serviceability of all systems, it is possible to start painting any part.

In this case, you should not load yourself with pre-treatment of the metal. It is important for us to set the pressure necessary for painting the product.

Such experimentation will give us the opportunity to determine the atmospheric value so that the coloring of any product occurs in a uniform layer. In addition, it is very important that this entire process occurs with a minimum amount of blower operation.

Thus, the results can be summed up. Making a car compressor, a lifting activity for every car enthusiast.

Of course, it's hard to argue that the second version is more complicated and takes more time to manufacture, but thanks to the automatic pressure control system, as well as the presence of a supercharger start, working with such equipment will be one sheer pleasure.

In addition, you will no longer need to control the receiver's camera. Such a station will allow you to paint a car, a fence in a village or a garage door.

For continuous operation of the created compressor, it will be necessary to carry out periodic routine maintenance . To drain the oil, you can use a syringe. In this case, we unscrew the filler hole, put a hose on the tube and pump out the waste. Fresh oil can also be pumped in with a syringe. Filters are changed as needed, including in the event of a decrease in the rate of filling the tank chamber.

Make or buy

Today the market is filled with a variety of compressor equipment. There are piston units, vibration units, screw stations and other devices that are produced for different purposes. Ready-made installations can be purchased at auto parts stores or on specialized sites.

A large assortment can make it difficult to choose the right product. But be that as it may, if you decide to buy a ready-made station, focus on studying the technical parameters, cost and reviews.

To obtain a quality guarantee, it is better to purchase equipment of well-known brands, however, an expensive product will justify itself in the case of professional car repair. Little-known products can let you down, so it's best not to risk it.


Often low-quality materials are installed in budget options. It is not uncommon for installations to fail due to instant breakdowns of individual parts, while warranty repairs will take a long time.

As already mentioned, a hand-made assembly is often more reliable than a factory one. Technical parameters are a separate plus. For example, according to statistics, refrigerator compressors last for decades. Regarding the fire extinguisher, we can say that this product has a tenfold margin of safety.

Therefore, it is better not to buy something that you are not sure about. In addition, having studied the current material, you know that you can make a compressor with your own hands, even at home. A well-made device will be the envy of your garage neighbors.

Another story

Let's start with the design of the technical requirements for the fruit of our own engineering. Let's say that it all started with the purchase of a new double action airbrush. Therefore, the issue of manufacturing a compressor unit with a receiver became extremely necessary.

The dual action airbrush has the ability to control the flow of air, as well as lock it and open the duct. In Europe, such a device is used with a separate compressed air cylinder. So, a compressor with a reservoir serves as a container for collecting air, and an airbrush uses this air.

Of course, the main component is the compressor. Here an old refrigerator will come to the rescue, from which you can remove an excellent compressor. To do this, you can go to sites that sell refrigeration equipment.

We determine the price and order delivery, but before that you also need to write out the name of the manufacturer's company and visit the site. So, in our case, the manufacturer is Danfoss. On the company's website, we download the technical description of the compressor.

Next, consider such an option as a do-it-yourself receiver for a compressor. Here, of course, you need a tank that was made to contain gases or can withstand high pressure. It is optimal if such a container meets the requirements of GOST. Therefore, we immediately exclude containers, like a plastic canister or bottle. Consider tank options:

  1. Carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. Withstands pressure - 10 atmospheres. Capacity - 3 l / 5 l / 10 l. Cons - metric thread at the entrance.
  2. Hydraulic accumulator. Good volume capacity, with low working pressure. There is a convenient thread at the entrance. Cons - needs to be fine-tuned, since, from the inside, it is divided into a membrane that contains carbon dioxide. The membrane must be removed.
  3. Oxygen balloon. Withstands high pressure. Cons - only extremely heavy models are available.
  4. propane tank. In general, it is similar to a fire extinguisher, but the manufacturer does not recommend their use for compressed air.

Links

After we have decided on the compressor, and selected the right product for the receiver, the next step is to combine them. In addition, you need to solve the problem of air flow to the airbrush.

You can start with a node that is attached directly to the receiver, and will provide air distribution. It must be recalled that the key factor is its compatibility with the receiver's connector. Next, pay attention to the pressure switch, which will ensure that the compressor is turned off and on.

The best option for the relay would be RDM-5, which is used for plumbing systems. This model is widely available for sale, and the good thing is that its connecting element is designed for external inch threads.


Then we determine the indication of pressure in the receiver. To do this, we need a pressure gauge for 10 atmospheres, it also has a suitable connecting size. And we will also need a static device.

Next, we deal with the air preparation unit. The hose that leads to the airbrush needs to be pressurized. Accordingly, there is a need for a gearbox with a pressure regulation limit of up to 10 atmospheres, and it is desirable that a pressure gauge and an oil separator filter be attached to it.

With the help of a pressure gauge, we will control the pressure, and the filter will ensure that particles of compressor oil do not get out of the receiver. But, do not confuse it with a lubricator filter, which performs a diametrically opposite function.

Let's continue collecting materials, and it's time to prepare fittings, turns, tees. We take an inch as the base size. To determine the quantity, you need a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit.

We will also need external and internal adapters. If desired, you can make a plan diagram of how to make a compressor. The next stage is the placement of the finished structure. Chipboard boards may be an option.

Of course, in order not to swear while moving the station around the workshop, it is advisable to immediately resolve the issue with roller legs. Any furniture store will gladly sell them to you. To save space, you can make a two-story structure. True, long bolts may be needed. So, we summarize the planning stage with a list of components:

  • Compressor;
  • Receiver;
  • Pressure switch;
  • pressure gauge;
  • Filter reducer;
  • Emergency valve;
  • Fittings, adapters;
  • Plumbing gaskets, fum-tape, sealant;
  • Cables, switch, plug;
  • Flexible oil resistant hose;
  • Chipboard sheet
  • Roller feet, bolts, nuts, washers and tools.

Starting assembly

It is ideal to remove the fire extinguisher assembly and weld on the adapter fitting. An alternative way is to unscrew part of the valve, leaving the internal mechanics and removing the control element, then screw an adapter with an internal inch thread to one outlet, and an adapter from 1 to 38 to the other.

Using an adjustable wrench, twist the adapters according to the diagram. Next, we mount the gearbox, pressure gauge, pressure switch and adapter for a flexible hose.

The next step is to screw the wheels to the chipboard sheet. Since the design will be two-level, you need to drill holes for the studs. After that, put the fire extinguisher in its place.

In the case of using a hydraulic accumulator, the assembly scheme is even simpler, since it has brackets at the top and bottom. Therefore, the lower mounts are screwed to the base, and the upper mounts are used to install the compressor.

In our case, the second floor needs to be built. To do this, markings are made, holes are drilled, and the upper and lower floors are bolted together. Then the compressor is mounted on the second floor. Silicone gaskets are suitable to reduce vibration.

When installing the compressor, we put washers. We fasten the air distribution module to the tank. Using a hose and clamps, we tightly connect the compressor outlet and the inlet of the air preparation unit.

Now it's time to work with the wiring diagram. A jumper would be appropriate. Also protective elements do not interfere. The connection line must pass through the relay and switch. The connection itself will take place as follows.

From the plug, the phase wire goes to the switch. Then it is connected to the desired relay terminal. In the absence of a ground wire, we start a neutral wire to the ground terminal of the relay.

Already from the relay, the phase wire and the neutral wire go to the starting device of the compressor station drive and are connected according to the diagram to the required terminals. Next, on the terminal block of the starting device, we install a jumper by soldering.

It will ensure the connection of the windings to the phase. Cables can be laid in plastic ties. Check and run the installation. Then we paint it.

Do you want to know everything about car painting? Read more helpful articles:

  • . All to the point.
  • . These tips are important.
  • . Useful if you want to buy a car.

It is not necessary to buy a compressor for painting work or pumping wheels - you can make it yourself from used parts and assemblies taken from old equipment.

We will tell you about the designs that are assembled from improvised materials.

In order to make a compressor from used parts and assemblies, you need to be well prepared: study the diagram, find it on the farm or buy some parts. Consider several possible options for self-designing an air compressor.

Air compressor from refrigerator and fire extinguisher parts

This unit runs almost silently. Consider the scheme of the future design and make a list of the necessary components and parts.

1 - tube for filling oil; 2 - starting relay; 3 - compressor; 4 - copper tubes; 5 - hoses; 6 - diesel filter; 7 - gasoline filter; 8 - air inlet; 9 - pressure switch; 10 - cross; 11 - safety valve; 12 - tee; 13 - receiver from a fire extinguisher; 14 - pressure reducer with pressure gauge; 15 - moisture-oil trap; 16 - pneumosocket

Necessary parts, materials and tools

The main elements are taken: a motor-compressor from a refrigerator (preferably made in the USSR) and a fire extinguisher cylinder, which will be used as a receiver. If they are not available, then you can look for a compressor from a non-working refrigerator in repair shops or at metal collection points. A fire extinguisher can be purchased on the secondary market or attracted to the search for acquaintances who at work may have decommissioned OHP, ORP, DU for 10 liters. The fire extinguisher must be safely emptied.

In addition, you will need:

  • pressure gauge (as for a pump, water heater);
  • diesel filter;
  • filter for gasoline engine;
  • pressure switch;
  • electric toggle switch;
  • pressure regulator (reducer) with pressure gauge;
  • reinforced hose;
  • water outlets, tees, adapters, fittings + clamps, hardware;
  • materials for creating a frame - metal or wood + furniture wheels;
  • safety valve (to relieve excess pressure);
  • self-locking air inlet (for connecting, for example, to an airbrush).

Another viable receiver came from an automobile tubeless wheel. Extremely budget, although not very productive model.

Wheel receiver

About this experience, we suggest you watch a video from the author of the design.

Regulatory documents stipulate that the service life of a portable fire extinguisher should be at least ten years, however, in practice, extinguishing devices are used less, as external conditions often affect this. Since the metal cylinder containing the extinguishing mixture belongs to the category of pressure vessels, a laboratory examination must be periodically carried out with a high pressure test and an imprint of a state verification officer. If the verification is not passed, which can be caused by various reasons, then the container is written off and cannot be used for its intended purpose.

Air receiver from a fire extinguisher bottle

For industrial use, such a container cannot be used, but in everyday life it is quite possible. Metal vessels that can withstand significant pressure are not cheap pleasure. You can make a receiver from a household compressor, which is always in demand in the garage and is almost as good as factory counterparts. For this purpose, a cylinder from a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher with a capacity of at least ten liters is suitable, only in this way it will be possible to ensure uniform air pressure at the outlet.

The fact is that they are equipped with cast cylinders, this allows you to withstand pressure up to 1000 atmospheres. Before use, you should make sure that the container is really seamless, the shut-off device (LPU) is equipped with a ¾ inch thread, and the fire extinguisher itself is empty, and then disconnect the LPU from the cylinder. The inner surface of the container should be carefully examined for traces of corrosion and, if necessary, cleaned.

You can make a receiver from a fire extinguisher with your own hands no less effectively than if it were a factory assembly. The appearance will become more aesthetic if you remove the old paint from the cylinder with a grinder, then prime and cover with a new one.

  • Instead of the inverted ZPU, it is necessary to screw a water cross into the neck of the cylinder, to seal the threaded connections, hereinafter, FUM sealing tape should be used, and an oil and petrol resistant sealant should be applied over it.
  • A pressure switch should be connected to the upper outlet of the cross, and a check valve with a fitting for an oil and petrol resistant hose should be connected to one of the side outlets.
  • An oxygen reducer with a stopcock is connected to the remaining outlet. The reducer allows you to smooth out pressure surges and get a dense stream of air.
  • When the receiver is assembled, a metal frame is welded onto it, where an electric motor with a supercharger is attached.

Fire extinguisher steam generator

Making a steam generator from a fire extinguisher is also not difficult, since the main component - a reliable container - is already available. It is used to produce steam, which is necessary for cleaning parts.

It is necessary to get rid of the ZPU, clean the inner surface from corrosion, and then screw the squeegee into the neck. Liquid will be poured through it and steam will come out from here. For sealing threaded connections, paronite gaskets resistant to high temperatures and FUM tape are used.

To supply steam, a special sleeve-hose is used, at the end of which it is necessary to put a narrowing nozzle, which will increase the flow rate at the outlet and its pressure.

How to make a stove out of a fire extinguisher

What can be done from a fire extinguisher while spending minimal money on consumables? The remaining old cylinders can be used to make a potbelly stove. This rather simple device is ideal for heating in an unheated garage, tent and other similar cases.

Before manufacturing, it is necessary to unscrew the ZPU, and then cut off the tapering neck with a grinder or an acetylene cutter so that only an even cylinder remains. A plate corresponding to the diameter of the cylinder is cut out of a sheet of metal and welded to the place of the cut of the cone. The result is a flat heating surface used to heat food.

Just below the middle of the balloon, a rectangular hole is cut out for the door and near the very bottom of a slightly smaller hole for the blower. Cut-out pieces of the cylinder can be used as doors, it is only necessary to weld the canopies and handles. Supports are welded to the cylinder from below, and a round hole for the chimney is cut from the side opposite the doors. The chimney adapter can be made independently or purchased ready-made and welded around the hole.

A fire extinguisher stove, like any other, will work much more efficiently with a high pipe.

The chimney is purchased in the form of separate segments made of sheet steel, so if the stove is planned to be moved, it can always be assembled in a new place. If the stove is installed permanently, then it is advisable to install a corrugated pipe.

You can also make a lot of other things useful in the household, since the steel used for casting cylinders is distinguished by high-quality strength characteristics.

When starting to manufacture something, you should definitely make sure that there is no extinguishing agent in the cylinder by pressing the ZPU and only then start working.

Using a 12-volt compressor, you can inflate tires, remove debris and dust, blow (clean) lattice elements, inflate balls, supply compressed air to an airbrush, etc.
If the compressor is equipped with a receiver, then its operation will be facilitated. After all, such a container creates a supply of compressed air, which allows you to take breaks in the operation of the compressor.

At the same time, the quality of the supplied air will increase, since the receiver equalizes pressure, smoothes out pulsations, cools the compressed air coming from the compressor, and collects condensate.

Required accessories

Our installation will consist of two main parts: a compressor and a receiver - a fire extinguisher body. For safe and reliable operation of the device, it is important that the pressure generated by the compressor (140 psi ≈ 10 bar ≈ 10 kg/sq.cm) does not exceed the pressure for which the fire extinguisher body is designed (20 bar ≈ 20 kg/sq.cm).




To create an installation that works in automatic mode, we need the following accessories:
  • locking unit on the receiver with a system of threaded channels;
  • safety valve;
  • pressure gauge with bar scale;
  • pressure switch;
  • valve in the form of a ball valve;
  • spiral and linear hoses;
  • airgun;
  • 12 volt battery;
  • fittings, unions and adapters.
To assemble individual nodes into a single whole, we will need:
  • wrenches and pliers;
  • drill and crimper (tool for crimping wire lugs);
  • hacksaw and scissors;
  • sealing rings and FUM tape;
  • knitting wire and double-sided adhesive tape;
  • piece of plastic pipe.

Making a receiver from a fire extinguisher housing for a 12 V compressor


Under the receiver, it is better to choose a fire extinguisher with a large volume. In this case, its efficiency when working in tandem with the compressor will be higher.
Next, we unscrew the shut-off valve with a hose, shake out its contents from the body (usually this is a substance based on ammonium phosphates, as the cheapest, but there may be other compounds).



Then rinse the inside of the fire extinguisher with clean water several times. Wipe the outside of the container with a clean cloth and dry the inside with a hair dryer.

Receiver package

Before this stage of work, we once again compare the characteristics of the compressor and the former fire extinguisher housing, and make sure that our receiver will correspond in all respects to the capabilities of the compressor.


We screw a locking unit with a central channel and four lateral threaded holes into the neck of a metal container.



We screw the safety valve into one of the side channels, adjusting it to a lower opening pressure.




Of the two pressure gauges available, we select the one that is graduated in units of bar pressure, and also screw it into the other side channel on the shut-off unit.





In the two remaining channels, we screw in an adapter and a switch-pressure switch - the main element of the automation system, which turns on the compressor when the pressure in the receiver becomes less than the working one.



From above, we screw the ball valve for supplying compressed air from the receiver or its overlap into the shut-off unit.



Next, using a set of rubber rings, FUM tape and keys, we seal and strengthen the joints of all elements with the locking unit and the last one with the body of the future receiver.



It remains to screw on the ball valve, also using a sealing ring and FUM tape, an adapter for installing a spiral hose, at the other end of which a tool powered by compressed air will be attached through the same adapter (we have an air gun).



Compressor piping

We first check its performance by connecting it to a 12-volt battery, and make sure that everything is in order with it.
We put on the hose adapter on the compressor outlet fitting. We seal with the help of FUM tape and firmly tighten the hex connector with keys.



We install the compressor on the receiver in the place where it will be fixed later. We cut off the hose at the outlet with scissors, leaving a small process on which we put a plastic rectangular fitting. It is necessary to give the desired direction to the hose that will come out of it and connect to the adapter on the receiver. Between the last two parts, a hex connector cuts into the hose - it is also a check valve.






Installing the compressor on the receiver

We stick strips of double-sided tape on the supporting surfaces of the compressor base. This will allow you to pre-fix the nodes relative to each other, and further contribute to the strength of the connection.
Then, using pliers and a tie wire, which we pass through the holes in the base, we firmly fasten the compressor to the receiver.

Manufacture of the basic part of the installation

To do this, you need a piece of plastic pipe, comparable in size to the outer diameter of the receiver. Using a hacksaw, cut three rings of equal width from the pipe.


In two rings we make a transverse cut so that they can be put on the receiver. The third ring is cut into two equal parts. They, in fact, will be the "legs" of our installation.


In two rings, at points diametrically opposite to the cuts, we drill holes with a drill. We do the same in the semirings in their center.
We connect the rings with half rings in pairs using screws and a drill, screwing the hardware from the side of the split full ring.
On the inside of the split rings, covering the heads of the screws, we glue a strip of double-sided tape to fix the rings on the receiver case from below.


We install the rings on the receiver, expanding them along the cut. For the strength of fixing the rings on the surface of the receiver, under each end of the ring, starting from the cut and below, we also glue a strip.

Selecting the pressure in the receiver and setting the relay


After connecting the hoses and turning on the compressor, we check the increase in pressure in the receiver by the pressure gauge and the operability of the unit using a pneumatic gun with the power off. We release the pressure in the receiver using the safety valve by pulling the ring on the stem.



We cut one strand of wire from the compressor and connect its ends to the pressure switch using lugs and a crimper. We turn on the compressor again and make sure that the pressure in the receiver increases.

What else to read