Light fireplace with your own hands. Determining the size and location

Many people believe that installing a fireplace is beyond the means of the average person. And this is true if you plan to hire an experienced stove-maker, who can now be counted on the fingers of one hand. After all, it is not profitable for masons of narrow specialization to create rarely ordered fireplaces at attractively low prices.

In fact, almost anyone can lay out a fireplace without having the highest professional skills and without spending colossal amounts of money from the family budget.

In this article, I will give you detailed diagrams and I’ll tell you how to make a simple fireplace with your own hands.

Living fire

To begin with, it should be recalled that a fireplace is not a type of heating. It produces directed thermal radiation only as long as the firewood is burning in the combustion chamber. The exception is fireplace stoves, which we will undoubtedly talk about next time.

However, in addition to the fact that a fireplace can become a magnificent decorative component of the interior of your home, it also has many advantages, for example, excellent circulation capacity, which will allow you to keep fresh air in the room when lighting. Also, if you have to go somewhere for a long time in the winter and turn off the stationary heating, then upon arrival, while it accelerates and heats the room, you will comfortably spend time near the lit fireplace.

Particularly nimble people adapt the fireplace to a grill and fry kebabs in it, which we miss so much on frosty, snowy days. And it’s just very pleasant to sit in front of a cheerfully crackling fire, sitting comfortably in an armchair with a glass of sparkling wine.

Preparation of material

So, to build a simple fireplace with a ash pan, approximately 1.90 cm high up to the valve, with a brick thickness of 6.5 cm, which I outlined in the diagrams below, you will need:

Red brick. About 400 pieces. It is quite easy to find it on the ruins of houses in villages, after dismantling old stove or by buying a new one at a regular hardware store. I prefer old brick, homemade technology (it is durable and at the same time easy to grind), but, in general, the origin of the material does not play an important role.

When choosing, you should focus on the integrity and quality of the surface. Select blocks without cracks or significant signs of destruction. Half thirds will also be used, so you can use those too. The most important thing is that the bricks are strong and do not fall apart in your hands.

If material from an old furnace is used, it should be cleaned of soot.

Damaged corners, or simply if you want to round them, can be ground off with a piece of another brick; usually, red brick is easy to process in a similar way.

The bricks should be soaked in plain water until completely absorbed (that is, until the bubbles coming from them disappear). It is not necessary to take a large container; we will build rows intermittently, so you can load them in small doses.

Clay. Since I often build fireplaces for people, I stock it up for future use. Often, clay remains in abundance with people digging drainage pits, wells, deep foundations. They are trying to get rid of it, so getting clay for the fireplace for free is not difficult. The main thing is that it is homogeneous, strong and free of dirt and stones.

We also place the clay in water for 2 days to allow the lumps to swell and disappear.

Any sand will do, but it is still advisable to choose coarse-grained sand. You can use the career one, but it is the least prerogative.

Fittings and corners. The angles you'll need can be taken from old supplies, but if you don't have any, buy them at a hardware store. In secret, if you come there and ask to cut off the required meter, the owners will not only be unhappy, but will also raise the price, since they will have to spoil the material (who will buy the rest after you?). Therefore, just ask if the required footage is available in stock. In most cases (of own experience), large stores have them and sell them at a very low cost. We take corners with a cross section of 40 mm.

Reinforcement (rods) - cross-section 8 millimeters.

As for the fittings, they are not expensive anyway.

Smoke damper.

Bucket . The bucket into which you will load the solution should be made of iron or plastic; you will most likely punch it with a trowel.

Bath for mixing the solution. I use a regular old style baby bath, but you can use anything you like as long as it's easy to mix.

Trowel. The most ordinary, no frills.

Level - 0.5 meters long. Plumb line to determine horizontal accuracy.

Grinder with a disc for stone. For sawing bricks in places where halves and 2/3s are required. And a metal disc to adjust the size of the reinforcement.

Hammer.

Roulette.

Step-by-step schemes

To begin with, you should prepare the platform on which the future fireplace will stand. If you still have the foundation from an old stove, great, the main thing is that it is free of cracks. The pedestal must be at least 1-1.5 meters high. Many people fill it with solid brick or lay it out of brick, but I prefer to fold backfill brick formwork and pour a screed with reinforcement onto it; this way, in general, it is more economical, but for completely inexperienced craftsmen it is risky, because the backfill must be perfectly compacted.

ATTENTION! The foundation should not be in any way connected with the foundation of the house!

After the pedestal has dried, 1-2 layers of waterproofing film or roofing felt should be laid. The top is poured thin layer clay-sand screed, based on clay-sand ratio 1:3. When it dries, you can start arranging.

ATTENTION! No more than 5 rows should be folded per day, since a wet structure may “leak.”

I drew the diagram in detail in the Point program. If anything is unclear, ask. I’m temporarily renting a computer from a friend, taking advantage of his hospitality, but at least I’ll log in more often from my tablet, look through comments and answer questions.

For beginners, I advise you to take a Lego set with large parts from your children-nephews and first put together a model from it. There are all the suitable parts - large blocks, halves and 2/3s. Many sites advise practicing on bricks without mortar, but using a construction set is much more convenient.

The red stripes on the diagrams show the rods, the corners are blue. Blue also indicates the valve on final stages at the top of the fireplace.

Don't forget to use a level to make the structure as level as possible.

Apply the solution in a thin, uniform layer not exceeding 0.5 cm.

Pipe

The pipe outlet from the fireplace must be strictly vertical. Bends and turns are allowed, in exceptional cases, no more than 40 degrees. The chimney can also be made of brick, combining the last 2 rows from the above diagram. The chimney is above the roof, laid out on cement-sand mortar. A special smoke cap is placed on it to protect it from snow or rain. However, its output depends on the angle roof slope, therefore, if you have any questions about its design, tell us about the material and angle of your roof slope in the comments.

You cannot plaster the inside of the fireplace. You can only lightly rub it with the remains of the clay-sand mortar.

Unfortunately, somehow we didn’t have to photograph the fireplaces that we made, but Maria still has several photographs of one of them.

I look forward to your questions in the comments and good luck to you in your future construction.

If a country house is under construction or has already been built, then you can always find a place for a fireplace in it, especially since many people dream about it. Excessively massive fireplaces are not easy to place in a small room, and in addition, they have a complex internal structure that is inaccessible to a beginner in the stove business for independent construction. Another thing is the corner fireplace. We can say that this option is suitable even for the smallest room, since it occupies a “modest” part of the usable space, but is able to fully bring maximum comfort to the house and create a special style.

In addition, a do-it-yourself corner fireplace step-by-step instruction for the construction of which is necessary for self-construction, even a novice stove maker can try to fold it.

Advantages of a corner fireplace

There are corner fireplaces of various models. Some of them are made only of brick, while others are combined of metal elements and brickwork. Which one is better to choose will depend on the preferences of the homeowner and his financial capabilities. It should be noted that a combined fireplace will cost slightly less than one in the construction of which only brick was used.

It is worth evaluating the advantages of a corner fireplace in order to understand how profitable it is to install it in certain conditions:

• The first is saving money on material for construction, since much less of it will be required than for the construction of a wall-mounted or island fireplace.
• The second is rational use area, since the compactness of the structure allows it to be installed both in a small country house and in a cottage with sufficient large area.
• Third, this is a relatively simple ordering scheme that even a novice master can understand. Even if the external masonry is not entirely successful, it can be covered with finishing material, such as decorative plaster, ceramic or ready-made stone portal. Moreover, some options for applying plaster can be made in the form of complex exclusive relief patterns.
• And finally, the aesthetic and functional value of the building. A fireplace will make the room cozy, which will allow you to spend rainy days and evenings near it in comfort.

Fireplace project

Preliminary sketches

In order for the process of erecting a corner fireplace in the room to be successful, it is necessary first of all to make a detailed project and sketch of the future heating structure. It is better, of course, to lay the foundation of the fireplace together with the foundation of the house, but you need to remember that they should not be connected to each other.

You can fit a corner fireplace into one of the rooms of an already built house, but you will have to careful calculations so that its chimney does not rest against the attic floor beam or rafter leg.

Design work is being carried out in the following way:

• First you need to determine the room and the corner in it where the fireplace will be installed.
• Next, on a sheet of paper you need to make a small drawing-sketch, which will allow you to visually determine how the chosen option will be “in place” in this particular room and in its design style.
• After this, taking into account the design diagram of the attic floor and rafter system, a fireplace design drawing is created.

Corner fireplaces may differ from each other in some design elements. For example, in its lower part you can install a chamber for drying firewood, or a blower chamber equipped with a door or a metal drawer. Brick cabinets are sometimes placed on both sides of the fireplace insert, used as decorative shelves for installation of fireplace accessories or floor vases.

The fireplace insert may have different shapes. It can be rectangular, square, trapezoidal or semicircular. Each developed model has its own version of the flask niche. When choosing a fireplace for yourself, you need to immediately pay attention to this element, since it will be difficult to redo it later.

In addition, a corner fireplace can have a firebox made of fireclay bricks or a finished metal firebox built into the structure. Such metal chambers are equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to enjoy the view of the fire and at the same time does not let combustion products into the room. For those who love open fire and the aroma of burning wood, the door will not be an obstacle, since it can always be opened.

All the desired elements must be immediately included in the design and sketch of the fireplace, and then try to select an order based on it, developed by professional stove makers.

Calculations of linear parameters of the fireplace

In order for the fireplace to function normally and meet all safety criteria, you need to know what should be taken into account when making calculations:

For high-quality and safe work of any heating device it is necessary to create optimal draft - in order to eliminate smoke in the premises and, at the same time, to retain heat for the longest possible time. In addition, normal draft will help to quickly light the fireplace and maintain acceptable fire intensity. General design fireplace should combine:

• High heat transfer, fast and uniform heating of the structure.
• The fireplace should not cool down the house when not in use, that is, it is necessary to create conditions for blocking the chimney pipe.
• Aesthetic appearance and compactness.

It is these factors that are taken into account and calculated during the preparation of the project. They largely depend on the area that the fireplace must heat.

Fireplace insert

Choice correct size The firebox directly affects the heating of the room and the creation of a comfortable atmosphere.

The size of this element is calculated based on the area of ​​the room. To simplify this, the area is divided by 50 - the resulting value will show the approximate size of the firebox window. So, for a small room, a fireplace with a firebox opening with an area of ​​0.32 to 0.54 m² is sufficient.

You can use a table that will help you easily calculate this important parameter for good fireplace functionality:

Dimensions various elements fireplace, mm	Room area, m².
	12	15	20	25	30	40
Portal width	400	500	600	700	800	900
Portal height	420	490	560	630	700	770
Firebox depth	300	320	350	380	400	420
Height back wall	At least 360
Firebox rear wall width	300	400	450	500	600	700
Smoke collector height	570	600	630	660	700	800
Cross-section of a chimney with rough internal walls	140×270	140×270	270×270	270×270	270×400	270×400
Section of a chimney with smooth internal walls	140×140	140×270	140×270	270×270	270×270	270×270

The best proportions for a fireplace window are considered to be 3:2, and the height should be less than the width of the fireplace.

No less important parameter is the depth of the combustion chamber - the efficiency of the fireplace will directly depend on it. According to standards, it should be equal to ⅔ or ½ of the height of the firebox.

If the specified parameters are ill-considered, for the sake of economy or appearance increase, then heat transfer is significantly reduced, since most of the heat will go directly into the pipe. All that remains is to admire the intense flame from the fire, barely having time to add wood to the fireplace.

And when the depth of the combustion chamber is reduced in relation to its height, there is a risk of regularly getting smoke in the room - this means soot and soot on the walls, ceiling, furniture and accessories. And the operation of such a fireplace will be extremely unsafe

Smokey for fireplace

To prevent smoke from occurring, in addition to the correct calculation of the firebox, the parameters of the chimney will be no less important, since they also affect the creation of normal draft and the burning activity of wood.

It is necessary to correctly determine the diameter of the channel or the size of the rectangular cross-section of the chimney opening and the height of the pipe. According to safety standards, the diameter of the chimney cannot be less than 150 ÷ ​​170 mm, or the rectangular cross-section must be 1/10 of the size of the combustion chamber.

The chimney pipe usually rises no lower than five meters, but sometimes a greater height is required. This parameter will depend on the area of ​​the roof in which it will be located, and on the height of the roof ridge.

Fireplace materials and necessary tools

Having drawn up a project and made calculations, they proceed to the selection and acquisition building materials. You need to decide right away whether the fireplace will be finished decorative material, or its masonry is planned to be done “for jointing”. This determines which brick can be chosen for laying.

Since the work on constructing a fireplace begins with the foundation, and only after it is ready they proceed to laying out the firebox and chimney, then start listing necessary materials it's worth it.

Foundation

Since the planned structure is not as massive as a full-fledged furnace, there is no need to build a strong foundation. If a slab, well-buried foundation was built for the house, then it will be quite suitable as a base for a light corner fireplace. If the foundation is strip, then additional work will have to be done on the base for the fireplace.

• Waterproofing is necessary for any structure - it will reliably protect it from capillary penetration of moisture from the soil and will allow it to stand without damage long time. Therefore it is necessary to purchase waterproofing material- it can be roofing felt or thick polyethylene film.
• Crushed stone and sand will be required for the construction of foundation cushions and manufacturing concrete mortar.
• To make formwork you will need a board. There are two methods of making formwork: temporary and stationary. When choosing a temporary option, after the foundation has gained strength and is ready for further work, the formwork is dismantled, and a sand-gravel mixture is poured into the gaps left between the soil and concrete.

In addition to formwork boards, metal sheets are often used, especially in cases where the foundation has a semicircular or other complex shape.

• Reinforcement in the form of metal rods with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm. Reinforcing bars are tied together steel wire, forming a grid.

Another option is to purchase a ready-made reinforcing steel mesh with cells of 50 - 80 mm.

Fireplace walls and chimney

To build the fireplace and chimney itself you will need following materials:

• To lay the walls, firebox and chimney, it will be necessary to purchase two types of solid bricks - red and fireclay.

— If the fireplace will be decorated with paneling, then you need to choose a high-quality ceramic brick. In the case where it is assumed external finishing fireplace, working (ordinary) brick is also suitable.

— Fireclay fire-resistant brick is used for laying the combustion chamber and the beginning of the chimney.

Bricks are calculated individually, and this quantity depends on the order and model chosen. Even a small corner fireplace may require from 350 to 650 pieces. When purchasing a brick, you need to add 10 ÷ 12% reserve to the total quantity - it will be useful in case of defective copies or unexpected damage as a result of adjustment in accordance with the order.

• For masonry mortar can be used traditional materials, such as clay, sand and cement. However, it should be noted that for kiln work it is very difficult to select the desired fat content of clay and optimal proportions, and if there is no experience in this process, then it is better to use ready-made compositions that require only proper preparation, the technology of which is indicated on the packaging. Such masonry compositions can be purchased in specialized stores in the form of dry building mixtures.

You need to know one more subtlety recommended by experienced stove makers - laying the combustion chamber, carried out with fireclay bricks, should be performed on a rubbed solution made of clay with minimal additions of cement and sand to it.

• Steel corners measuring 40×40 or 50×50. The length of these elements is selected depending on the width of the combustion chamber, drying chamber or ash chamber. 300 ÷ 400 mm is added to the dimensions of these chambers, and the resulting value is multiplied by two, since the corners will be laid on both sides of the chambers.
• If you choose a fireplace model with a semicircular firebox overlap, you will have to prepare a template from a board, plywood or metal sheet. Loose bricks or timber beams can be used for supports.

• The chimney can be made of brick or made of metal. If the latter option is chosen, then a pipe must be purchased at least five meters long, but to find out more precisely how much it will be needed, you need to take measurements at the installation site of the fireplace, from its top to the height of the ridge.
• For brick chimney You will need a fireplace damper with a long handle.

• For a metal pipe, a built-in adjusting element - gate will be required.

Element stainless chimney- gate

• If you decide to build a ready-made cast iron or steel firebox into the fireplace, then this is what you buy instead of fireclay bricks. It must be said that installation in a fireplace finished firebox will greatly simplify and speed up the work, since the brick lining will be done in a ready-made form.
• Since the fireplace will be installed in a corner, the walls forming the corner must be insulated from exposure to high temperatures. For this, heat-resistant plasterboard or asbestos sheets are purchased.

• For cladding a building you can use different materials- it could be facing tiles, imitating stone, ceramic tile, decorative plaster or even a ready-made portal made of natural or artificial stone.

You may be interested in information on how to knead correctly.

Required Tools

To lay any fireplace, you need to prepare the following tools:

1 – a hammer-pick will be needed to split bricks.

2 – trowels of different configurations, small in size for applying and leveling the mortar.

3 – trowel (trowel) big size for mixing and applying the solution to large surfaces.

4 – the construction level requires control over the horizontal and verticality of the masonry and seams.

5 – plumb line for checking the verticals of the walls.

6 – laser level(if possible) to simplify the process of marking the floor and walls.

7 – cord along which each of the rows of masonry will be output.

8 - mallet (wooden or rubber mallet) for leveling bricks in a row.

9 – the rule is used to level the poured foundation and to check the evenness of the fireplace walls.

10 – containers for mixing the solution and for water.

11 - jointing to give the seams a neat shape to the seams.

Preparatory work

Pouring the foundation

If you have to start work from the foundation, then it is carried out according to one scheme, in next order:

• Before erecting a foundation for it, it is necessary to make a recess of 400 ÷ 500 mm in the soil under the floor. It should have the shape of the base of the fireplace, but 100 ÷ 120 mm wider.
• Next, sand is poured into the bottom of the pit - it will become the first layer of waterproofing for the foundation. The thickness of this layer when compacted should be 100 ÷ 120 mm. In order to achieve maximum density of the sand layer, it is moistened with water during the compaction process.
• A backfill of crushed stone is made on top of the sand cushion, which is also compacted. Its layer should be the same thickness as the sand layer.

• Next, reinforcement elements are laid on the crushed stone.
• Then the walls of the house are fenced off from the future foundation with asbestos sheets, which will protect them from high temperatures and help retain heat inside the room.
• The next stage is the installation of formwork. If the base is semicircular, as shown in the photo, then the most optimal An option would be to fence it with a metal sheet, which is supported by stacks of bricks.

For a foundation with straight lines at the base (rectangle, trapezoid, etc.), the formwork is most often made from boards that are knocked together. If gaps have formed between the boards, then the inside of the formwork is covered with dense polyethylene film. It will not only prevent the solution from leaking out, but will also retain moisture in the solution for a longer period, which will allow it to set and gain strength evenly.

• When the formwork is ready, you can mix the solution. It is advisable to fill the entire volume of the foundation in one go, but its first layer can be made coarser, consisting of a sand-gravel mixture and 4:1 cement. The thickness of this layer can be 120 ÷ 150 mm.

On top of it, a thinner layer of cement and sand mortar is immediately poured in a ratio of 1:3.

• The foundation surface is leveled using the rule, closed plastic film and left to mature. This method of caring for freshly poured concrete is especially appropriate if the foundation is being built in the summer when high temperatures outdoors, when moisture evaporates at an accelerated pace.

Roofing material is laid on top of the finished, brand-strength foundation in two or three layers.

Preparing for brickwork

Every master stove maker has own secrets masonry heating structures that were acquired during a long period of operation. It would be nice to know about several of them before starting to build a fireplace.

• Laying the fireplace begins only three to four weeks after pouring the foundation, since the concrete must be well strengthened.
• If the masonry will be carried out using clay mortar, then before starting work the brick is soaked in water for one and a half to two days. A brick soaked in water will no longer absorb moisture from the mortar too intensively, and this will allow drying to proceed evenly, which will prevent cracking at the seams.

• In order to avoid serious errors in the order and carefully understand the configuration of each row, even experienced stove builders, when starting the construction of a new stove model, lay the entire structure “dry”, without using mortar. If you follow this procedure, the main laying of the mortar will be much easier and faster.

In addition, when laying out the fireplace “dry”, you can immediately adjust the bricks to the required size and number them, indicating the number of the row and the location of this element in it. It should be taken into account that the seams between the rows and bricks should have a width of 8 ÷ 10 mm.

• Well, there is one more everyday point that must be taken into account - when carrying out such work, dust and dirt will inevitably form in the room. To prevent things from being damaged, it is recommended to take them out of the room or cover them with thick plastic film, with sheets overlapping by 500 mm.

These subtleties will greatly facilitate and simplify both work and cleaning after completion of the masonry. Having studied all the nuances of the preparatory work, you can proceed directly to the masonry.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Laying a corner fireplace

So that you can choose suitable option, you can consider several ordering schemes - simple and more complex. And everyone will decide for themselves which model will be easier for them to complete.

First option

This version of the fireplace is quite complex due to the unusual shape of the combustion chamber, but if desired, it can also be brought to life, based on the description of the features of each row of the diagram.

• Row 1 - you need to work on it extremely carefully and carefully, since the quality of all further masonry will depend on it.
• Row 2 – a niche is formed in which a box for collecting ash will be installed.
• Row 3 – laid out according to the pattern. A hole is left in the middle part of the surface for discharging ash from the combustion chamber into the ash pan.
• 4th row - at this stage the bottom of the firebox is laid out, fireclay is used for this fire brick. The hole left in the previous row is covered with a cast iron grate (grid).
• Row 5 - on this row, the rear and side walls of the firebox begin to be built, which will form the portal. The walls are laid in two rows of thickness - the first is located near the wall and is made of red brick, the second, inside the firebox, is laid from fireclay, and the brick is mounted flat. The front part of the firebox floor and the side walls of the portal are also built from red brick.

• 6 ÷ 9 row– the laying is carried out according to the diagram and fully corresponds to the description of the fifth row. The walls of the combustion chamber are being erected.
• Row 10 – this row produces very important work - construction fireplace portal. It should be noted that the shape of the portal can be changed to arched or rectangular if desired. However, if the portal will have an arched or arch-like shape, it is recommended to make a template for this. In this case, it can be cut from ordinary plywood, 10 mm thick. For stability, the template must have a certain thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm, so two identical parts are cut out of plywood, between which a wide spacer is made.

The template is leveled and supported on both sides by stacks of bricks. A brick is laid along the end side of the template, forming a figured portal.

11 - 19 rows

• 11 ÷ 12 rows – these two rows form the inner walls of the combustion chamber and the outer walls of the fireplace. When laying out a portal in the form of an arch or the same shape as presented in this order, the bricks on the outer and inner walls are sawed off or chipped so that they fit tightly into the shape of the figured portal.
• 13 ÷ 14 rows – laid out on the back wall of the portal the so-called “mirror wall”. Its laying is carried out at an angle.

Sloping wall - “mirror”

The work can be carried out in two ways: the brick is installed at a slope, as shown in the photo, or it is laid flat with a shift towards the firebox by 40 ÷ 50 mm. In the latter case, after completing the removal of the wall, its surface will have to be leveled with a solution, since it must be smooth. It is this slope that sets the direction of the smoke rising from burning wood.

• 15 ÷ 18 rows – the rear inclined, side and front walls continue to form around the figured portal.
• 19th row – interior bricks the combustion chamber moves towards the firebox, forming a rectangular chimney opening.

18 - 20 rows

• Row 20 is the penultimate row before completing the laying of the front wall around the portal. The upper part is laid out according to the scheme - the chimney opening continues to form.

• 21 row – completely covers arched portal on the front wall and is displayed in even rows of masonry. The posterior inclined wall passes into so-called "tooth", which, in combination with the slope of the wall, regulates the passage of smoke to the chimney outlet.

• 22 ÷ 23 row– the “tooth” of fireclay brick continues to form. External masonry is done with red ceramic bricks.

• Row 24 - the chimney hole is made of fireclay bricks, and the surface of the mantel is made of ceramic material.

• Row 25 – the fireplace mantel is completely covered, leaving a hole for installing a chimney damper.
• Row 26 - on this row, a valve is mounted on the hole for the chimney pipe. It is best to choose an option with a long handle or gate.
• Row 27 - a ceramic or asbestos smoke pipe is installed above the valve and lined on all sides with bricks prepared to its shape. Or, an even brick is used, and the gaps between it and the pipe are filled with a solution consisting of sand and clay.
• 28 and subsequent rows - the installed round ceramic pipe is covered with brick.

It should be noted that this version of a corner fireplace will be difficult for a beginner to complete if there is no experience in designing stoves. Therefore, it is better to invite experienced craftsman who can help you avoid making mistakes.

Second option

This corner fireplace model is simpler to make, so it is quite accessible for beginners. Moreover, a detailed order is given, which is less complex compared to the design presented above. In the order diagram, the areas where red and fireclay bricks are used are highlighted in color, which makes it more understandable.

The foundation of this corner fireplace is arranged in the form of a square - this is convenient because the pre-furnace area will immediately be decorated with a heat-resistant surface, which is necessary for any heating structure.

• On waterproofed The foundation is laid with a zero row of bricks - it will become the basis for laying subsequent rows, so work on it must be carried out with special care. It must be laid out in exact accordance with the drawing shown in the diagram.
• Row 1 forms the bottom of the blower chamber and is laid out according to the presented diagram, so it will be necessary to adjust two bricks, the corners of which must be cut off or carefully chipped under the right angle.
• Row 2 - at this stage a niche is formed for drying firewood or a blower chamber. They will differ only in the presence or absence of an ash pan and a grate.

If it is decided to place a drying niche under the firebox, then on its outer side it is laid metal corner, size 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. The length of this metal profile should be 600 mm.

• Row 3 - the masonry proceeds according to the diagram, and a metal sheet measuring 600 × 400 mm and 4 ÷ 5 mm thick is mounted on top of the drying niche. If an ash pan is installed, a cast iron grate of the same size is installed instead of a metal sheet.
• Row 4 – the masonry follows the pattern if a metal sheet has been laid on top of the niche. When installing an ash pan under the firebox, the laying is carried out according to the order plan, with the exception that the grate remains open.
• Row 5 – the bottom part of the firebox is formed from fireclay bricks. It is highlighted in yellow on the diagram.

• 6 ÷ 8 rows - work is carried out in the same order: the walls of the combustion chamber rise from red ceramic material, and inner part The firebox walls are formed from fire-resistant fireclay bricks, cut in half along their thickness.
• Rows 7 ÷ 9 are also mounted according to the order.
• 10 ÷ 11 rows - on the back wall a slope begins to form towards the combustion chamber, which will become the lower part of the “tooth”. In order for the slope to be even, the bricks are sharpened and adjusted to each other.
• Row 12 - at this stage, the combustion chamber is covered along the outer edge with steel corners 50x50 mm, 600 mm long.
• 13 ÷ 14 rows are laid out in order.
• Row 15 – the construction of the back wall and the “tooth” is completed, above which the chimney begins.
• 16 ÷ 17 rows - the upper part of the portal is formed, turning into the mantelpiece. The brick is laid with a shift to the outside.
• 18 ÷ 20 rows - work proceeds according to the diagram. The upper opening of the fireplace narrows with each row, forming a chimney channel.
• 21 ÷ 24 rows – laying a chimney with additional side walls.
• Rows 25 ÷ 29 – the chimney pipe is removed, while a smoke damper is installed on the 27th row.
• Starting from row 30, the chimney pipe is installed - it can be made of brick, or a metal version can be installed. The pipe is routed through the attic floor and then through the roof.

Third option

This model of a corner fireplace was developed by master V. Bykov and has been used for construction for many years. During this time, it became popular due to the excellent efficiency of its design.

With the length of the sides located along the walls being only 770 mm, the fireplace is quite compact and can be installed even in a small room, which is an undeniable advantage models.

This fireplace is equipped with a ash chamber, so for the hole in the bottom of the firebox you will need a grate measuring 250 × 250 mm. Metal strips 5 mm thick and 40 mm wide will be necessary for laying out the ceiling part of the ash and combustion chambers.

Work on the construction of a fireplace begins with marking the first row of masonry, which is installed with special care.

• Row 1 is laid out on waterproofed the surface of the foundation, according to the markings made in advance and in compliance with the pattern of the brickwork.
• 2 ÷ 3 rows are also laid strictly in accordance with the order pattern.
• Row 4 – the base of the combustion chamber is formed, so the middle of it is laid with fireclay bricks.
• Row 5 – the formation of the blower chamber begins. Metal inserts are installed on its side and back walls, which are securely fixed to the surface of the bricks.
• Row 6 is laid with fireclay bricks, and a grate is installed on metal inserts. You can do without inserts, but then the sides for installing the grate will have to be provided in the masonry of the previous row, moving the bricks 10 ÷ 15 mm forward.
• Row 7 – the walls of the combustion chamber are laid, as well as the sides of the portal.
• 8 ÷ 12 rows – the walls of the firebox are removed and side racks fireplace portal.
• Row 13 – the walls are bandaged with steel strips measuring 600 × 50 × 5 mm.
• 14 ÷ 15 rows - the rear wall is laid out at a slope towards the front of the firebox - this slope is called a “mirror”. This configuration helps direct the smoke into the chimney and, at the same time, it serves as a heat reflector towards the room. The inclined part of the back wall of the firebox, laid out at an angle of 20 degrees, smoothly passes into the ceiling and chimney pipe.
• 16th row – a horizontal surface is displayed, so-called "tooth", essentially being the completion of the “mirror” masonry. The “tooth” is coated with a solution of sand and clay, since its surface must be perfectly smooth so that soot does not accumulate on it.
• 17 ÷ 19 rows - the inside of the front wall of the fireplace is laid out with hewn bricks, as this creates the shape of the chimney channel, which should evenly go around the “tooth”.
• 22 ÷ 22 rows - a part of the chimney duct called “higho” is installed. It must have a size of at least 140 × 270 mm. After laying the 22nd row, a smoke valve is installed on it using a clay solution.
• Row 23 - the smoke exhaust channel continues to form, having a curved shape.
• 24 ÷ 25 rows - the curved direction is displayed in vertical position chimney. This hole must also have a cross-sectional size of 140 x 270 mm.
• Having reached this section of the fireplace, a metal or ceramic pipe is installed, which is covered with a metal casing or brickwork.

In order to comply with fire safety requirements, it is necessary to carefully consider the passage of the pipe through ceiling And rafter system, since these parts of the structure are made of flammable materials. They must be insulated from the chimney with special boxes filled with non-combustible materials, such as expanded clay or sand.

After completing the construction of the fireplace, its masonry should dry thoroughly. In each individual case, this process takes different time, since it depends on the massiveness of the structure and temperature environment.

Drying takes place with the doors and valves open. Will help speed up the process ordinary light bulb at 200 W, which is suspended in the combustion chamber and left on until the masonry mortar is completely dry.

It is better to postpone surface finishing, if planned, for several months, during which the fireplace will be actively used.

So, building a corner fireplace with one smoke exhaust duct is much easier than building one of the complex models of stoves. Therefore, study 5 5

Since the time man became acquainted with fire and tamed it, this element has become almost irreplaceable. Many people like to spend time by the fire or at home, looking at the fire in the fireplace, basking in its warmth. After all, the fireplace is an integral component of peace and comfort in the house. Today, fireplaces have gained popularity not only as a heating element, but also as a fashionable feature. modern interior. In order for a fireplace to appear in your home, it is not at all necessary to contact a specialist, but simply take our advice and start laying it yourself.

Before starting to install a fireplace, any master will select the material. Brick remains the most popular to this day. This material meets several requirements at once. It is durable, beautiful, capable of retaining heat for a long time, and most importantly, the material can be budget-friendly.

As for the preparation itself, it is divided into 4 stages:

• Selection of options for the final result;
• Selecting and preparing a suitable place in the house;
• Drawing up a drawing;
• Selection and acquisition of necessary materials and tools.

On this moment on the World Wide Web, as well as in special magazines can be found for free a large number of photos and examples of what finished structures should look like. Therefore, we can say that the first stage will not take much time. To begin with, it is better to focus on a simple design, which can later be decorated with interesting elements and given any color.

If the choice falls on a conservative option, then for its organization it is better to give preference load-bearing wall. However, today you can also notice corner structures that are mounted in partitions. It all depends on the available space and personal wishes.

The most important thing is that such a brick fireplace meets safety regulations and does not cause smoke or fire.

Next, drawings are created. They are drawn on special paper or on a regular notebook sheet. Marking in this situation plays important role, it will allow you to display the required room on the plan as accurately as possible, and also schematically represent the fireplace. The main rule is that the firebox should be less than 1:50 of the room. In this case, the heating chamber will have parameters of 1k2 of the entire structure. This calculation eliminates the possibility of smoke and rationally provides the room with heat.

The chimney should also be mentioned. Its diameter should be 8 times smaller than the entire surface of the fireplace. It can be either round or square. However, here too it should be taken into account that for a round pipe the length must be at least 5 m.

Construction of fireplaces: choosing material

As mentioned above, a brick is best material for laying a fireplace. However, not every brick meets its characteristics. Experts recommend purchasing solid bricks individually. When purchasing, pay attention to its weight and shape; it is better to choose small red bricks. It is he who can be called fireplace brick. This approach will help you save a lot during construction.

In addition to bricks, the following materials will be required during the construction process:

• River type sand, it must be clean and uniform;
• Cement and clay;
• To fill the area with crushed stone;
• Plywood;
• Ruberoid;
• Reinforcement up to approximately 70cm long;
• Steel leaves;
• Chimney damper;
• Decorative material.

All materials from the list must be prepared in advance and in required quantity. To do this, everything needs to be calculated after drawing up the drawing. Nothing should distract you from the laying process. Therefore, everything must be at hand.

How to make a fireplace with your own hands from brick: step-by-step instructions

Where should you start building a small fireplace? After all the dimensions and sketches are ready, the row layout is calculated and marked, you can begin manufacturing the building. The first thing you need to do is organize the foundation for the fireplace. At the same time, you need to take into account that it should not coincide with the placement of the foundation of the house, as this could violate the integrity of your home. A hole is created under the base; crushed stone must be placed on its bottom, which must be carefully compacted and leveled. The depth of the pit should be no more than half a meter, and its diameter should be 20 cm greater than the plane of the proposed fireplace.

After this, formwork is constructed from plywood and poured cement mortar. Plywood can be processed upon request. This can be a wax treatment or covering with roofing felt. Ready base level and cover with polyethylene for a week until completely dry.

Please note that the surface of the foundation must be perfectly flat, as this is the key to a strong structure.

The strength of the structure will also be ensured by bricks, which will be lowered into water a few minutes before starting work. This will allow excess air to escape and ensure good tenacity of the material.

This also applies to clay. Before starting work, it is filled with water for several days, adding liquid as it is absorbed. Don't forget to stir it until it reaches the consistency of sour cream.

Now you can start the main work. After the foundation has dried, the polyethylene is removed and two layers of roofing material are laid. The layers, as well as the screed, must be perfectly even, because this is the basis for future brickwork. For rows of bricks, a flat base, which is made in a straight line, is very important.

The first bricks are laid edgewise and pressed tightly to the base, then a layer of clay is applied. Each layer must be covered with clay, so a construction triangle and a level may be needed here.

The laying of the chimney must be approached with special care; the order must be noted on the drawing. After three rows you will need to insert reinforcement. In the future, a fireplace grate will be installed on it. In the process of laying side projections, you can use half a brick. And at the end of the work, all seams are treated with a decorative solution to which dye can be added.

Thus, you can create a mini oven in your private home. The whole technology is not that complicated.

Scheme of a brick fireplace with an open firebox

Why is there such an emphasis on creating a diagram during the process of laying a fireplace? Everything is not so simple, because a correctly made drawing is already part of the success in the work performed. The type of material, its functionality, and most importantly, safety during use depends on its composition. It is possible to draw up a drawing without having any special skills; it is enough to take well-thought-out, ready-made diagrams as a basis. If you want to compose professional scheme, we recommend watching training videos.

The diagram of a brick fireplace with an open firebox will immediately make it clear where construction will need to begin, what features this particular fireplace has furnace installation, and what types of work need to be performed. Therefore, the scheme is very important, because even the most experienced specialists often turn to their preparations.

The design of a fireplace with an open firebox includes:

• Portal;
• Chimney;
• Firebox;
• Grate (or blower).

All these elements must be taken into account and depicted in the drawing. I would like to note that this composition is also inherent in a closed firebox.

Also, when designing such a fireplace, you must strictly adhere to all proportions. Namely, the width of the firebox, which should correspond to the indicator 2:3, and the height of the portal in relation to the depth of the firebox 1:2. Such ratios will not allow smoke to penetrate into the room, and will also increase heat transfer.

It should be remembered that fireplaces with an open firebox made of bricks are good for their heat transfer, but only for small premises or rooms with good ventilation. Only 20% of the energy from the fuel goes to raise the temperature in the room. In addition, this type of fireplace is demanding in terms of fire safety.

DIY fireplace: step-by-step instructions (video)

Creating a brick fireplace with your own hands is not easy, this is due to the peculiarities of the stove equipment. However, if you consider the issue in more detail and delve into all the nuances, this can be done without the help of a specialist. The most important thing is that this will not allow even the smallest errors in calculations, in the drawing and just stick to the plan.

A wood-burning fireplace in a home is a good-quality hearth with an open firebox.
It has not only a heating function: among other things, it is a magnificent decoration that harmoniously combines the soft homeliness of a room with sophisticated charm.
It is no coincidence that the popularity of such stoves is extremely high.

There is an opinion that to arrange decorative home with your own hands is so difficult that it is virtually impossible. This is debatable. To some extent, a fireplace is a lighter and simplified version of the usual stove. Their main difference lies in the method of heat transfer. So how realistic is it, and how can you install a fireplace in your home yourself? Let's try to solve the problem together.

Operating principle

The operating principle of a wood-burning fireplace is quite easy to understand.

Dry wood, when burned, releases a lot of heat, which heats up the brick (stone).

He, in turn, having the ability to remain hot for a long time, shares heat gradually, over a long period of time, supplying the room with it.

The devices look different, but the irreplaceable parts, chimney and firebox, are available in any model. How to make your furnace more efficient?

A good working fireplace, with high efficiency, should be:

• not too deep and wide enough;
• To increase the efficiency factor, special heat shields are added to the design. Their role is played by massive parts that release a large amount of heat when heated:
• The masonry of a fireplace stove for a home is specially made with protrusions and irregularities, which increase the area of ​​the heated surface, and, accordingly, heat transfer.

No matter how good a fireplace in a country house is, built with your own hands, it is only additional heating- without central system In our climate, it’s not easy for everyone to get by.

Preparation

Fireplace brick plan and consumption

Any work begins with a plan, or project. There should be at least a simple drawing. It will help not only in maintaining the order and sequence of work, but also in calculating the necessary construction and finishing materials. Also, if you have a plan for the stove, it is much easier to choose a suitable place for it in the house - and this is not an easy task.

The optimal place for a fireplace in wooden house is internal or load-bearing façade wall, or the angle of intersection of two load-bearing walls.

A drafty place is not suitable for a fireplace, nor are areas opposite. The dimensions of the future structure depend on the ratio of its parameters and the size of the room.

The fireplace in the house should not cause smoke, and at the same time it simply must have good heat transfer. To fulfill these conditions, it is important to correctly carry out necessary calculations. The required ratios between the depth of the firebox, the height of the firebox and the width of the portal must be observed.

Corner fireplace

The room chosen for a fireplace in a private house should not have too small an area. As you know, the combustion process requires a sufficient amount of oxygen.

Sometimes, to solve this problem, a special air channel is installed in the subfield of the fireplace, connecting to the street. It provides the oxygen necessary for the flame.

According to the method of placement, the fireplace can be:

• angular;
• central.

In other words, you can make a corner fireplace at home, or place it in the center of the room, or near one of the walls.

Hearth type

Open and closed firebox

Having decided to install a fireplace in a wooden house , you need to decide on the type of fireplace. Wood-burning fireplaces can be closed or open. The first are a cast iron base, which is lined with brick or stone on the outside.

If you make the door from heat-resistant glass, you can admire the open flame without interfering with the combustion process. Cast iron cassettes are cheaper than bricks, and their use allows you to meet a lower cost. Both open and closed type It's quite possible to fold it yourself.

Fireplace foundation

Fireplace foundation

The fireplace stove for the home should be located on.

The depth of its laying is at least half a meter; in a two-story housing this value increases to approximately 0.8 - 1.0 meters.

A convenient and budget-friendly option is made of reinforced concrete.

A hole is dug around the perimeter of the future fireplace, the bottom is measured with a level.

Broken bricks or large stones are placed there, compacted well, then poured. After leveling the resulting layer, the procedure is repeated.

The inner part of the foundation is filled with liquid concrete, the outer part is laid out on a dense, thick mortar. Several such layers are made until about 30 centimeters remain to the top. The layers must lie flat, check with a level.

Then, two layers of bricks are placed on the double clay mortar. There remains about 7 cm to the clean floor - this is the base of the future wood-burning fireplace for the home.

You can make a foundation from autonomous blocks. It is irrational to combine the foundation of the fireplace with the foundation of the house itself, since they have different drafts.

Masonry

So how to build a fireplace yourself? Exist different techniques The masonry of stoves and fireplaces is virtually no different from them. It must be of such quality that a reliable monolithic structure is formed, which is ensured by dressings of longitudinal and transverse seams.

To do this, use a partial-size brick, and also use the method of alternating different parts of the brick (split and tongue) in the corners of the structure. The seams must have a strictly specified width: 0.5 cm for simple brick and 0.3 cm for fireproof.

Laying a fireplace in the house

If this condition is not met, the strength of the masonry suffers, since with strong heating the seams are deformed much more than the brick. To ensure uniformity, a smooth, plastic mortar should be used.

• Red brick has high porosity, which is why it is able to absorb liquid. Therefore, it must be soaked before work.
• The refractory brick is immediately ready for use. To improve adhesion to the solution, it is enough to wash off the dust particles.

You cannot use both ceramic and refractory bricks for dressing seams at the same time: they have different performance characteristics, including expansion coefficient. It is not recommended to place parts of bricks with chips inward smoke channel so as not to interfere with the normal passage of gases.

Arches

Arch masonry

Covering the opening occupies one of the most important places in the composition of the fireplace.

More on initial stage work, thinking through the design of the fireplace, you can choose the appropriate type for it.

It can be made of whole red brick, with perfectly straight lines and clear seams.

If the masonry is not very successful in appearance, it can be improved with plaster.

Metal and reinforced concrete are not suitable for covering the opening, as they expand greatly when heated, which leads to the destruction of the masonry. Very popular are beam and arched ceilings, which, in addition to functionality, are also very decorative.

Chimney

The wall of a brick smoke pipe must be at least half a brick wide. In the case where the surface is intended to be plastered, a thickness of one-quarter is acceptable. Channels chimneys It is recommended to make them strictly vertical.

Creating a brick fireplace in your home with your own hands is not difficult if you strictly follow all the recommendations. The laying of the fireplace chimney is the same as that of the fireplace itself. Some difficulties may be caused by laying the pipe where it enters the roofing material.

Usually, to ensure fire safety in the attic, a widening of the masonry is made, called cutting. It can also be made from a pre-prepared reinforced concrete slab equipped with a hole for the pipe. It is important to follow the following rules:

Laying above roof level is the most difficult stage of the work. Here, exclusively selected bricks are used, which are laid on a cement-clay mortar. The riser is raised above the roof plane by about two layers, after which they begin to lay out the otter. The pipe laying is completed with a neck and head.

A brick pipe can easily be replaced by a round or ceramic one. It is much easier to install such a pipe than to lay it out of brick. But she has significant drawback- Cools very quickly. If there is a significant gap between kindlings, it will be quite difficult to light the fireplace.

Therefore, such a pipe must be well insulated. The joint between the round section and the brick fireplace masonry is reliably strengthened. Pipe joints must be perfectly sealed.

Finishing

Decorative stone finishing

When making a fireplace for country house You can give free rein to your imagination and make your ideas and dreams come true. When it comes down to it, there is plenty of room for creative ideas to run wild.

The new stove can be finished to your taste, choosing from several existing finishes.

For cladding you can use many different materials.

Cladding with ceramics is carried out from the bottom up, from the firebox opening to required level. Spectacular marble tiles are used to decorate the firebox and fireplace portal.

Plastering

The surface of the fireplace must be prepared for the process. Masonry and cracks are cleared, a metal mesh is attached to inclined surfaces and to all large areas.

Special brackets are used, or it is simply nailed down. All metal elements are protected with a layer of drying oil to avoid corrosion.

First apply a small layer of plaster, no thicker than 0.5 cm. When it dries well, another layer is applied.

It uses a more densely diluted composition or. If necessary, you can apply another layer, a third, but the total thickness of the coating should not be more than one and a half centimeters.

Plasterboard cladding

To give the product rectangular shape The fireplace is lined with plasterboard. To do this, first install a rigid frame, which is then finished with plasterboard.

Coloring

It is carried out on a previously plastered surface. To do this, use adhesive and chalk paint compositions. If you need a snow-white surface, you can add a little blue to the paint.

Effective heat-resistant materials can be used not only for the hearth, but also for the wall behind it. Often special forged elements or original cast iron products are ordered to decorate the stove. The grate, the tool stand and the tools themselves - masterfully made products will emphasize the originality and originality of the room.

Care

Despite the fact that the fireplace in your house was made by you conscientiously, it needs attention and care. Only then will it please its owners with reliable and uninterrupted operation. Every fireplace needs regular chimney cleaning.. Even if the furnace operates flawlessly, diagnostics and testing are vital.

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Throughout time, the main place in the house was given to the hearth. IN Lately, fireplaces in houses and cottages have become very popular, and the question of how to build a fireplace with your own hands is quite relevant.

Any stove or fireplace must meet the following requirements:

1. No smoke.
2. Heating the room.
3. Beautiful appearance.

To achieve these goals, all stages of construction must be followed.

Location

The very first step involves choosing the location of the fireplace; not only saving living space, but also its efficient heating depends on this.

First you need to decide on the type of structure.

The fireplace stove can have the following design options:

• Wall-mounted.
• Angular.
• Built-in.
• Ostrovny.

Based on this, the home owner can choose a suitable location for the fireplace.

When planning the location, it is necessary to take into account that it is not advisable to install a fireplace stove opposite a window, since the heat will escape out the window. In addition, it is necessary to strictly follow fire safety rules; a fireplace is a source of heat, not fire.

Materials

Making fireplaces begins with the selection of materials. For construction we will need:

• Red ceramic brick. Its quantity is calculated based on the prepared drawing, while all incomplete bricks must be taken into account as whole.
• River sand. Be sure to sift and clear of dirt and debris. The grain size of the material should be within the normal range (0.2–1.5 mm).
• Crushed stone for making a foundation. The acceptable fraction should be from 2 to 6 cm.
• Blue Cambrian clay or regular red.
• Cement (M 200 or M 300).
• Smoke damper.
• Fittings.

Brick and its varieties

Throughout the entire period of kiln construction, solid red brick, which is made from clay, is used.

This material is used to lay out the outer parts of fireplaces. Therefore, a lot depends on the quality of the brick.

The brick must have the following properties:

• Have the correct shape;
• Contain no cracks or gouges.
• Have no deformations;

The interior of the fireplace is lined with fireproof fireclay bricks or quartz material.

Material quality requirements

When purchasing a brick, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

1. The material must correspond to a grade of at least M200.
2. The required quantity of bricks must be purchased from one batch.
3. The appearance of the brick - it should not contain cracks or chips.

Preparation

This stage consists of the process of preparing materials. Particular attention, of course, is paid to the brick, but in addition to it, other components will be needed.

You will need a clay mixture, which is thoroughly cleaned of unnecessary impurities and wiped. Before laying, this mixture is soaked for about 2–3 hours.

The sand that will participate in the solution must also be cleaned; it will be enough to sift it through a sieve with fine holes.

Having completed this, you can begin to prepare the solution, the proportion of which must be strictly observed. Based on the fat content of the clay, the ratio of sand and clay should look like 1:1 or 1:2.

The resulting solution should not spread on the surface of the brick, but at the same time slide off it with ease.

Pouring the foundation

To pour the foundation for the fireplace/stove, you will need the following materials and tools:

• roulette;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• hammer + nails;
• board;
• fittings;
• cement (grade M400).

The first thing you need to do is formwork from edged boards. It must be securely installed and have a height of 8–10 cm. The reinforcing rod is laid in 19 cm increments, after which perpendicular rows of rods are laid. The joints of the rods must be secured by welding.

The solution must be poured in two stages. The first involves a layer of concrete of 4 cm, then it is necessary to lay the sheathing, after which the last layer is poured, the height of which should be about 6 cm.

To ensure that the finished foundation does not contain voids, the solution is plowed a little with a free rod.

After this, the foundation must be left alone. Its drying time can vary from 15 to 18 days, depending on the conditions.

Fireplace masonry

This process is quite simple; after reading the article, you will learn: how to build a fireplace yourself from brick? In order to carry out the masonry correctly, it is necessary to strictly follow the construction plan.

DIY fireplace

The laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Several layers of waterproofing material are laid on top of the foundation base.
2. For the first row, cement is added to the mortar, and the bricks are laid on slats.
3. The third row has small nuances, namely the installation of two pins, which will be needed a little later for the fireplace grate.
4. In order to fold the fireplace-stove correctly, you must adhere to the diagram or drawing.
5. To maintain the temperature regime in the future design, it is necessary to ensure that outer wall the brick fireplace was not in contact with the firebox.
6. To remove excess solution from the walls of the firebox, its surface is cleaned with a damp cloth.
7. To improve the quality of heating, it is necessary to maintain a slight angle of inclination of the rear wall forward. The side walls are designed to be turned outward.
8. To avoid the possibility of fire, it is necessary to take precautions and protect the floor in front of the fireplace with a sheet of iron.

Folding the fireplace stove is half the battle; you need to make a smoke collector.

The principle of its laying is to lay out bricks with a gradual overlap. Portal-type holes inside are blocked using jumpers, which can be made in several ways:

• arched,
• wedge,
• vaulted.

To correctly lay out the smoke collector, it is necessary to maintain its verticality. Once you have crossed the floor with the roof, you can begin building the roof pipe. This masonry is done on a cement-sand mixture.

By following these rules, you can easily design a stove or fireplace yourself. Now all that remains is to deal with the chimney.

Chimney

If the chimney structure is made of brick, it is necessary to consider a foundation or a steel frame for it, which will rest against the main foundation. The chimney itself is located on the outside of the firebox and wrapped in thermally insulating material. The top of the chimney is sheathed with a sheet of steel or aluminum.

Using for chimney ready-made sections pipes, special clamps are used as fastenings, with the help of which the structure is fixed to the floors of buildings. This chimney option can do without a foundation.

Finishing work

In addition to the fact that the fireplace-stove can be decorated with a colored joint, the brick itself can possibly be repainted in a different color. For these purposes, tempera or gouache is used.

Decoration for corner option The fireplace can be tiles or marble tiles, stone or decorative brick. If desired, you can simply plaster the surface or use other decorative elements.

The modern market offers a large number of elements for decoration, including wooden parts. For safety reasons, their use is not recommended.

The decoration is fastened using regular tile adhesive, and the decoration itself should start from the bottom of the fireplace, gradually rising.

If your fireplace or stove already contains marble parts, it is recommended to cover them with cellophane to avoid scratches.

• For the firebox, you can use fireclay bricks, and for cladding, choose a material of a different quality.

• The chimney structure can be made not only of brick, but also of special modules in the form of a metal or ceramic pipe.

• To reduce errors when building fireplaces, it is recommended to use ready-made drawings rather than developing them yourself.

• When designing a fireplace, you can focus on built-in shelves or firewood racks, this will give the structure a more aesthetic appearance.

From the above material we can conclude that laying a fireplace is a fairly simple process. All you need is to follow all the instructions and recommendations, then the question is: how to build a fireplace? won't take you by surprise.

Video: How to make a brick fireplace with your own hands