Drywall walls and partitions: we do it ourselves. Do-it-yourself drywall installation: different tricks and tricks Do-it-yourself drywall installation on walls

Often there is a need to align the walls in the apartment. One of the simplest and available funds is the installation of drywall, and by doing it yourself you can significantly save the family budget.

Material selection

Types and purpose of drywall

Before proceeding directly to work, it is necessary to determine the required material.

In any good hardware store, you will be offered a choice of 4 types of drywall, this

• GKL - normal drywall sheet gray color with black or blue marking lines, which is suitable for normal dry heated rooms. It is used for both walls and ceilings. The thickness is 6 mm, 9 mm, 12.5 mm. For walls, ceilings and partitions, it is recommended to use sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm. The remaining dimensions are for arched, curved structures and radius surfaces.

• GKLV - waterproof plasterboard sheet green with black or blue marking lines. The manufacturer adds antifungal impurities to the gypsum itself, and the cardboard coating is made moisture resistant. This type of drywall is used for finishing rooms with high humidity (eg: bathroom).

• GKLO - fireproof gypsum board red with black or blue marking lines. It contains reinforcing constituents in gypsum that increase resistance to open flame. Used for finishing industrial premises, ventilation, attics, electrical panels.
• GKLVO - gypsum board moisture and fire resistant green with red markings. It combines the properties of GKLV and GKLO. It is used for finishing industrial premises with high humidity and having increased requirements for compliance with fire safety standards.

Drywall edge types:

• PC, SK - transverse cut edge of GKL, not pasted over with cardboard;
• PK, VK - rectangular longitudinal edge for dry mounting without joint filler;
• ZK - rounded edge. It is used when using dry plaster without sickle;
• FK - transverse cutting edge, designed for filling joints without reinforcing tapes with an open gypsum core;
• UK, AK - beveled (compressed), thinned edge, intended for pasting with sickle and puttying seams;
• PLUK, HRAK - a semi-circular, beveled along the length (thinned) edge, for pasting with sickle and puttying seams;
• PLC, HRK - a semi-circular longitudinal edge, designed for puttying joints without a sickle.

Advice: choose drywall with markings UK and PLUK to avoid the formation of protrusions due to which the layer of putty increases when finishing!

What to look for when buying drywall:

• drywall is supplied to the store in packs, the bottom sheets of which are packaging and, most often, have a thickness of 12 mm. They are necessary to prevent damage to the main commodity sheets. Careless sellers, trying to earn money, sell them, although they are defective and subject to disposal;
• all corners must be intact, without signs of crumbling, the cardboard must not be damaged;
• sheets should be stored in dry warehouses in a horizontal position;

Choice of frame profiles

For the installation of walls or the construction of plasterboard partitions, use the following types profiles:

• PS (CD) - rack profile. Used as vertical racks frame. The range of sizes for this profile:
  • 50/50-a*b=48.8mm*48.5mm;
  • 65/50-a*b=63.8mm*48.5mm;
  • 75/50-a*b=73.8mm*48.5mm;
  • 100/50-a*b=98.8mm*48.5mm.

Installation of the rack profile is carried out in a guide profile of the appropriate size;

• MON (UD) — guide profile. It is mainly used along the perimeter of the wall. The range of sizes for this profile:
  • 50/40-48.8*38.5mm;
  • 65/40-63.8*38.5mm;
  • 75/40-73.8*38.5mm;
  • 100/40-98.8*38.5mm;
  • 28/27-28*27mm;
  • 28/18-28*18mm.
• As a rack profile is very often used ceiling profile PP, it is produced in only one size - 60x27 mm, so PN 28/27 is used with it. The PS profile is mainly used for the construction of partitions.

Advice: When buying a profile, you should pay attention to its quality. The profile should be chosen hard, this will improve the quality of the work performed

U-shaped suspensions are used to fasten the rack profiles to the wall.

Calculation of the required material

Before going to the hardware store, you need to decide on the amount of material that you need.

Calculation of drywall

To buy drywall, you need to calculate how many sheets we need, for this we do the following:

• we calculate the area of ​​​​the wall or walls that you are going to sew up by multiplying the height and width of the walls;
• if there are door or window openings, calculate their area and subtract from total area walls;
• Since unsuitable pieces from pruning always remain during work, it is necessary to add another 10-15% to the resulting final area;
• when sheathing a wall in two layers, multiply the resulting number by two.

Profile calculation

To calculate the number of profiles, you can use the following sequence:

• Measure the height and length of the wall on which we will mount the frame.
• The number of guides (UD) is calculated by the formula: (wall height * 2 + length * 2) * 1.2 (correction factor) / 3 (length of one UD) = the sum of the profiles, which is rounded up.
• We calculate the number of rack-mount (CD) profiles according to the formula: (room length in centimeters / 60 centimeters) * 1.2 (correction factor) -1 = number of CDs, which is also rounded up.
• The amount of U-shaped suspensions is calculated by the formula: the number of CD * 5.

Fastener calculation

The calculation of the number of screws for drywall is performed as follows:

• if the wall is sewn up in one layer, then the sheets are screwed in increments of no more than 25 cm with self-tapping screws 28 mm long;
• if the wall is sewn up in two layers, then the first layer is twisted in increments of 60 cm with self-tapping screws 28 mm long, and the second layer in increments of 25 cm with self-tapping screws 35 mm long so that they reach the profiles;
• based on the dimensions of a standard drywall sheet (1200mm by 2500mm), we get the approximate number of self-tapping screws (do not forget to add 10-15%) - 1st layer - 16 pcs. per sheet, 2nd layer - 35 pcs. on a sheet.

The calculation of the number of dowels for fastening the guide profile and U-shaped hangers is carried out as follows:

• the length of one guide profile in centimeters (300 cm) is divided by the recommended fastening step of 40 cm, not forgetting to add 10-15% to the resulting number for the stock and multiply the final number by the number of purchased PN profile;
• for each U-shaped suspension there are 2 dowels.

As a standard, dowels are used with a size of 6x40 mm, with a mushroom cap.

Quantity calculation self-tapping screws (press washers) for fastening the rack profile is carried out as follows:

• if rack profiles are not spliced ​​(wall height<3 метров), то количество прессшайб около 4 шт. на профиль, без учета крепления к П-образному подвесу на который приходится ещё по 2 прессшайбы на 1 подвес;
• if rack profiles are spliced ​​(wall height> 3 meters), then the number of press washers increases to 8 pcs.

Required Tools

You can read more about all the tools in the article.

Marking and installation of the frame

Before marking and mounting the frame, you need to prepare workplace. If there were wallpapers on the walls before, then it is advisable to peel them off and impregnate the wall with an antifungal primer, but if the room is dry and without variable humidity, this step can be skipped.

Work sequence:

• find the most protruding part of the wall and project it onto the floor, step back from this point the width of the guide profile and use a laser or string to make markings along the entire wall.

Advice: It is rare to find perfectly right angles between walls in rooms. Especially in older buildings. The distance between them at different ends may differ by several centimeters. When marking the future frame, you should take this into account and bind not to one wall, but to two parallel ones. Distances are averaged. So you will avoid the visual curvature of the resulting room.

Having made the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. To do this, you can use a plumb line or laser level, this will greatly simplify the task.

If there is an assistant, then by inserting a rack profile, cut to the height of the wall, into the guide, using the building level, you can move the point from the floor to the ceiling.

When all the lines are drawn, you can proceed with the installation of the guide profile. All profiles that are attached to existing structures, are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The profile guides are fixed to the floor and ceiling first. They are fixed with dowel-nails every 40-50 cm and along the edges.

After installing the guide profile, the rack-mount ones are set, at a distance of 60 cm from each other, measured from the centers of the profiles. The length of the rack profile must be 1-1.5 cm shorter than the height of the wall, otherwise it will be energized and give uneven surface walls.

Advice: masters do not recommend leaving drywall strips less than 10 cm, so if the wall is not a multiple of the number of drywall sheets in length and just a strip of 10 or less centimeters remains, then you should move the first and subsequent profiles so that sheets lie in width from the edges of the wall more than 10 cm (preferably 30-40 cm).

When all rack profiles are exposed, it is necessary to strengthen the structure with U-shaped suspensions, making sure that all profiles remain in the same plane.

After fixing the suspensions, we set the jumpers between the rack profiles in increments of 60 cm.

In order to save material, sometimes not all jumpers are placed, but only at the level of possible future loads according to the knee-belt-shoulder rule.

Jumpers are made from the same profile as the frame racks. For their fastening to the racks I use crabs, but most often they use self-tapping screws. To do this, the rack profile is cut into 60 cm and cut off along each edge side walls scissors 4-5 cm each to form an ear that is attached to the rack profile with press washers.

If you plan to insulate or soundproof the wall, as well as all wiring is done before fixing drywall sheets on the frame.

After installing all the jumpers and all additional operations, you can proceed to fixing the drywall to the frame.

Installation of drywall on the frame

The fixing of drywall should be done in a checkerboard pattern so that there is no docking line along the entire wall, along which a crack can occur during the operation of the room. If the wall is sheathed in two layers, then the seams of the first layer should also not coincide with the seams of the second layer.

Start fastening the sheet to the profile should be from the middle, gradually moving to the edges or from one corner to another, in order to avoid a loose connection of the sheets to the frame. The recommended fastening step with self-tapping screws is no more than 25 cm.

The gap between the sheets and the floor should be within 10mm to avoid warping of the sheets. floor covering in the course of his free running when walking.

The sheets should not fit snugly against each other, there should be a gap of 5 mm between them.

At first, you can wind only whole sheets, and leave the trimming for later, so you save yourself time without constantly switching to different operations.

Self-tapping screws should be screwed into drywall at a right angle. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be completely recessed into the sheet, this is necessary for trouble-free further puttying of the walls.

After the entire wall is sheathed with drywall sheets, at all non-factory joints we cut off the chamfer at an angle of approximately 45' (we cut off the gypsum at an angle of approximately 20-22' from each side of the joint). This is necessary so that after puttying the wall, the joints are not noticeable.

You can see an example of the installation of drywall walls in the following video:

wall finishing

After finishing the installation of drywall on the frame, you can proceed to the finishing of the wall, which consists in puttying the surface of the entire wall.

Before puttying, it is necessary to prime the entire wall, special attention should be paid to the joints of drywall sheets.

First of all, all the seams of the self-tapping screws on the wall are filled with putty, after it dries a little, we close the seams with sickle or fiberglass. After that, we putty the seams over the sickle, and then go to the entire plane of the wall. After the putty has completely dried, it must be primed again to perform following works whether it be painting or wallpapering. You can see how to perform wall puttying work in this video:

You can learn more about plastering plasterboard walls from our articles on the website.

If you have any questions about the work with drywall, you can ask them in the comments.

How to install drywall sheets.

Installation of a frame for plasterboard.

Installation of plasterboard on the walls.

Wall pretreatment.

Necessary materials and tools for gluing the material.

Drywall has long occupied its niche in the market. It is well-deservedly popular because it universal material, which can be attached to walls or ceilings or used as a room divider. However, depending on the place of installation, installation methods will change, various tricks will appear that must be taken into account when carrying out work.

Drywall is used to level walls and ceilings in a room.

There are several ways to install drywall on walls: on metal or wooden frame or glue. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is worth considering them in more detail.

Wall mounting wireframe: necessary materials and tools.

This method is applicable to any premises, regardless of their size and purpose. The frame is used when closing walls and ceilings, as well as when erecting a partition from gypsum plasterboard. It is worth noting that the crate is assembled in almost the same way in all cases.

Nomenclature of profiles for GKL.

On the initial stage it is necessary to prepare all materials and tools. Needed for work.

mounting knife.

self-tapping screws for wood or metal (depending on the material of the crate.

scissors or a hacksaw for metal.

profiles or rails.

mounting brackets.

Return to the table of contents.

Wall preparation and foundation marking.

Important! Substrate preparation includes cleaning the wall from easily peelable coatings, repairing in the presence of significant damage, and removing deformations.

Scheme single-level ceiling from drywall.

The next step is marking. From the wall to be closed, it is necessary to indent the distance necessary for laying communications and insulation. Further, the location of the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling, as well as on the walls, is noted. All guides must be in the same plane. Then it is noted where the rack profiles will be located. The distance between them should be 40-60 cm. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the distance so that the edges of the drywall sheets lie on the profiles, and do not fall into the gap between them.

Return to the table of contents.

Installation of a frame for plasterboard.

Next, the frame is assembled. First of all, guide profiles are installed on the floor and ceiling. The reliability of the entire structure will depend on them, so they need to be fixed very carefully. Installation of profiles is carried out using dowels with a pitch of 40-60 cm. Further, guides are installed on the walls in a similar way.

Scheme of fastening a metal frame for drywall.

Then, mounting plumb lines are mounted to the wall along the line of the supporting profiles. The step is 60 cm. On adjacent lines, it is desirable to shift the plumb lines relative to each other. You can arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. This will give greater strength and rigidity to the structure. Next, rack profiles are inserted into the guides and bred in their places. They are attached to the guides and to the plumb lines. Self-tapping screws can be used for this operation. If the plumb lines have “ears”, they should be wrapped inside the frame. After installing the vertical profiles, proceed to the installation of the transverse ones. All operations are performed in the same way.

If the profile is too long, it can be cut using a hacksaw or metal shears. If, on the contrary, it is short, then it is necessary to increase the length using special connectors. The crate of wooden bars is assembled in a similar way.

Return to the table of contents.

Installation of plasterboard on the walls.

The last step is the installation of drywall. However, before proceeding to the final stage, it is necessary to resolve the issue of sound and heat insulation of the room. As a heater, you can use mineral wool, foam sheets, cork. All of these materials absorb sound well. Installation of communications, laying engineering systems produced before the walls are sewn up with plasterboard. When the room is insulated and all communications are connected, you can proceed with the installation of sheets. To do this, you need metal screws.

Important! GKL is drilled every 30-40 cm to all frame profiles.

During installation, the following rules must be observed.

The scheme of processing drywall seams.

Sheets should lie down in a checkerboard pattern or like brickwork.

GKL can be mounted both vertically and horizontally.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the material at a right angle, deviations are unacceptable. The heads must be recessed into the drywall by at least 1 mm. The tails go out of the profile by at least 10 mm.

The panels must be securely fixed around the perimeter and in the center to prevent sagging. The edges of the sheets must fit on the profile.

When fastening the GKL, it is necessary to indent from the edge of the sheet with a factory cut of at least 10 mm, with its own cut of at least 15 mm.

Return to the table of contents.

Advantages and disadvantages of this type drywall installation.

This method has many more positive aspects, it is more often used.

walls are leveled even with significant differences, pits or ledges.

masked all the flaws of the base.

secure fastening of drywall.

there is no need for careful preparation of the base, its alignment, etc.

possibility additional insulation and soundproofing the room.

no "wet" operations.

can be used in any room.

There are only three main disadvantages.

reduction in the size of the room.

low maintainability.

there is no solid wall behind the GKL.

If assembling the frame seems too troublesome, then you can simply try to stick the material on the walls.

Return to the table of contents.

Fixing drywall with glue.

It is not always possible to glue drywall. It can only be used if the following conditions are met.

The scheme of wall cladding with drywall on a metal frame.

There is no need for additional heat or sound insulation of the room. It is impossible to qualitatively fix the GKL on mineral wool or other material: after a while it will fall off.

Irregularities on the walls do not exceed 20 mm. Otherwise, the sheets will warp, like the base, or will not stick, since the glue on the depressions simply will not reach the wall.

The height of the room does not exceed the length of the sheet. Standard size panels is 2500x1200 mm. If the height is greater, then you will have to look for a sheet 3 m long, but not everywhere there are such. It is not allowed to increase the length using cut pieces. It is difficult to do exactly and at the same time with high quality.

If at least one of these conditions is not met, it is better to use wireframe method mounts. It is impossible to glue drywall on the ceiling: in this case, a crate must be used. Of the special advantages of this type of installation, space savings can be noted. It is very handy in small spaces.

When leveling wall railings with the use of GKL, the question is often raised - how to properly install drywall on the wall? The emergence of such a question is quite natural, because today there are several technologies for plasterboard wall cladding. And each of them has its own secrets!

In addition, so-called false walls can be made from drywall - and in this case, the installation technology will be seriously different from the one we use when sheathing the main wall. In general, there are enough tricks and nuances in this process!

Frameless mounting method

Preparing walls for plasterboarding

One of the simplest, and at the same time the least expensive ways to level the walls in a room using drywall is the frameless method. The main advantage of this technology is that there is no need to violate the integrity of the wall surface by drilling holes in it for fastening the elements of the crate.

In addition, the price of materials for frameless installation is on average lower than the cost of a profile and fasteners for a drywall frame.

Note!
The more irregularities on the wall, the large quantity drywall adhesive must be used, respectively, the less savings will be.

Installation of drywall on glue is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• At the first stage, we prepare the surface for gluing drywall, removing residues old finish and dismantling all parts fixed on the wall.
• After the wall is cleaned, we check its plane with a level or enough long rule. If large irregularities are found, they can be scraped off with a chisel or perforator.
• Before installing drywall, we treat the wall with a primer that ensures high-quality adhesion of the adhesive to the surface to be leveled. The choice of primer depends on the material of the wall.

Sticking plasterboard

When the primer polymerizes, you can start gluing the drywall.

• For gluing, we use plasterboard putty on plaster base(for relatively flat walls) or glue for plasterboard (for walls with irregularities up to 40-50 mm).
• The adhesive composition is applied to the underside of the panel along the perimeter, as well as several vertical stripes along the surface of the GKL. If Perflix glue is used, then it is laid in small slides at a distance of 23-30 cm from each other.
• After applying the glue, we apply the GKL to the surface and level it on the plane with a rubber mallet.

Advice!
For the polymerization of glue or high-quality drying of the putty, air access is necessary. To ensure it, we leave a gap of about 8-10 mm in the lower part of the wall, placing wooden wedges or trimmings of facing slabs under the drywall.

• Having pasted several panels and without waiting for the glue to dry completely, we control the quality of the resulting surface.
  If necessary, the plane can be trimmed by slightly pressing in the right places with an open palm.

Installation of drywall in a frameless way is carried out, starting from the corner of the room and moving along the perimeter. After the whole room is pasted over, all that remains is to seal the seams and treat the surface with putty. How to do this - we will tell separately.

Frame method

Assembling the metal frame

More common is the technology of plasterboard sheathing using a metal frame. This technology is also quite simple (albeit more expensive), while it allows you to hide almost any bumps.

In addition, for frame sheathing you can lay wiring and communications, which is also an undoubted argument in its favor.

For the frame, both wooden beams and special profiles made of galvanized iron can be used. Despite the fact that the wooden frame is more economical, the craftsmen still prefer the metal crate as more convenient to use, reliable and durable.

Installation of drywall on the frame is carried out as follows:

• We apply markings on the wall cleared of decoration, along which we will fasten all the elements of the frame. For marking, it is convenient to use a laser level mounted on a tripod.
• In the upper and lower parts of the room, parallel to the sheathed plane, we fasten starting profiles. To fasten the profile, we use dowels with a metal sleeve, hammering them into holes previously drilled in the floor and ceiling.
• We attach the brackets to the wall itself according to the markup. Most often, plate suspensions are used as brackets (pictured).

• To the brackets with the help of self-tapping screws we fasten the rack-mount vertical profiles. We bring the ends of the vertical elements from above and below into the starting profile and fix them with self-tapping screws or rivets.

Note!
Rack profiles must be installed strictly vertically. Tolerances when installing drywall, they are no more than 15 mm for the entire height of the room, and for improved finishes - no more than 1 mm per 1 mm of the height of the room.

• For improvement mechanical characteristics frame vertical racks can be connected with horizontal profiles.

Frame sheathing

When the frame is ready, you can begin to sheath it with GKL sheets. Before installing drywall, it must be cut to the required dimensions.

To trim drywall, you can use a special cutter, electric jigsaw or file, but most often use a paint knife with a replaceable blade.

• We apply the sheet cut to size to the frame, after which we fasten it with self-tapping screws.
• You need to tighten the screws so that the hat is flush with the cardboard layer, not protruding above it, but not falling into the gypsum core. For this, a special nozzle-limiter on a screwdriver is often used.

Related articles:

Partition from GKL

In addition to leveling existing walls, drywall can be used to build interior partitions.

Below we will explain how to install a drywall wall:

• Before starting work, we prepare all communications that must pass inside the partition. First of all, this, of course, is wiring, but pipes can also be hidden under drywall, and if the partition has a considerable width, then the exhaust ducts.
• Installation of a false wall begins with the assembly of the frame. At the first stage, we fix the starting profile along the perimeter of the room, forming the contour of our partition.

Note!
If a doorway is planned, then we do not install the starting profile at its location on the floor!

• After the perimeter is fixed, we install the rack profiles. As in the case of wall cladding, we wind the upper and lower parts of the racks into the starting profiles and fasten them with self-tapping screws.
• We pay special attention to the racks on the sides of the doorway. To ensure sufficient rigidity, we insert wooden liners into them, additionally fixing the tree to the floor using metal brackets.
• In the upper part of the doorway we mount a horizontal jumper. We also fix horizontal profiles to strengthen the structure.
• Inside finished frame partitions we lay communications, after which we sheathe one side with drywall.
• We place a heater in the partition, after which we sheathe the second side.

The final stage of the assembly of the interior drywall wall is the lining of the door slopes.

To study in more detail all the nuances of the process of erection and sheathing drywall constructions you can by watching the video tutorials posted in this and other articles on our website.

When arranging your home, it often becomes necessary to build new partitions and internal walls. This can be a full-scale redevelopment, and the desire to split an existing room into two parts or form rooms in a new building, which is made in a single space. For the construction of new internal partitions drywall and metal profiles are used. This material is so convenient and easy to use that it is possible to build drywall walls with your own hands without even resorting to anyone's help. However, despite the above statement, in the process of forming walls from plasterboard, there are many nuances that should be taken into account. Only in this way can a reliable and durable design be obtained as a result.

Work materials

First, let's decide what we need to build a wall of materials and what tools we have to work with.

To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, the frame should be erected initially. It is performed from metal profile, which is specially designed for drywall and a range of accessories for its installation.

Basically, a profile of two main sizes is used:

• D - to form a plane on which drywall (smaller) will be fixed;
• W - to build a common wall frame (larger).

In addition, for each size there are profile options such as support (C) and guide (U). The guide variant is a simpler version of the U-shaped profile with smooth walls; the supporting profile is inserted into it with the butt end. The support profile, in addition to the U-shape, has a special ribbing made by pressing to acquire greater bending rigidity.

As a result:

1. CD - size 60 * 27 mm, the main load-bearing element of the frame;
2. UD - size 28 * 27 mm guide for fixing the CD profile;
3. CW - size 50*50, 50*75, 50*100 mm rack profile for forming a wall frame;
4. UW - size 50*40, 75*40, 100*40 mm guide for CW profile.
5. In addition, there is the UA profile, which is a variant of the CW profile with a thicker wall and reinforced.

To build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles are used. For more wide walls with the laying of communications, the CD and UD profile is used, while two parallel guides are mounted on each side of the wall at the required distance.

To fix the profile in the frame, you need a straight hanger and a universal connector (crab). You can do without the latter. The elements will be twisted with flea screws with a “drill” tip and self-tapping screws for fastening drywall to metal with a countersunk head and a piercing tip (3.5X35 mm). In the course of describing the technology for erecting a drywall wall, it will become clear how many self-tapping screws of each type are needed. To fix the entire frame to the main walls, you will need plastic dowels with impact screws.

Drywall sheets for building a wall are selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, always with a wide chamfer on the sides. If the wall is formed in the kitchen or in the bathroom, then a moisture-resistant GKL is selected. You can distinguish them by color, because the moisture-resistant sheet is green, the usual one is gray.

As a result, you will need to build a wall:

drywall, CD, UD, CW, UW profile, wooden beam or AU profile, self-tapping screws, dowels, sealing tape, mineral wool, metal corner.

If you do not fully understand the specifics of profile types, read about their designations and differences.

Instruments

You will need the following set of tools and measuring instruments:

1. roulette;
2. level (80cm, 120cm), rule;
3. plumb;
4. fishing line, rope;
5. screwdriver or drill with reverse;
6. perforator;
7. metal scissors;
8. construction knife;
9. grater for drywall.

The beginning of the formation of the frame of the plasterboard wall

So, with the assignment of profiles and the choice of tool finished, you can start planning and placing future wall. The floor and adjacent walls to which it will be fixed new wall, should be at the stage immediately before the finishing, that is, the floor is flat with a screed, the walls are plastered. For example, consider the formation of a wall from a UW, CW profile. On the floor we make markings for the placement of the future wall. The following points are taken into account:

• Almost nowhere you will find perfectly right angles between the walls in the rooms. This is especially true for old buildings. The distance between them at different ends may differ by several centimeters. When marking a new drywall wall, this should be taken into account and tied not to one wall, but to both, which run in parallel. Distances are averaged. So you can avoid the visual curvature of the resulting room.
• If, in addition to erecting a wall, all walls are plastered with plasterboard, then the frame is first displayed, or at least the markings of the sheathing so as to create the most right angles, and after that you can only start building the wall.
• Outlining the first line of the wall location, it is taken into account that the guide profile will be equal to it, and not the resulting wall. To this mark will be added the thickness of the plasterboard, a layer of putty and finish.

Having decided on the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. For this, a plumb line is used. If it is possible to use a laser level, then this will greatly simplify the task.

Important:All profiles that are attached directly to the floor, ceiling and existing walls are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The UW profile guides are fixed to the floor and ceiling first. They are fixed with dowels and impact screws every half a meter and along the edges.

Attached along the edges of the guides support posts from the CW profile. Racks are also installed in places where a door or window opening will be formed, which are necessary when erecting an interior plasterboard wall. Profiles are best fixed first on the bottom rail. Then it is threaded into the upper guide and installed strictly vertically in level. Only after that it is fixed on the upper guide. When arranging these profiles, the margin for sheathing with plasterboard strips over the profile is taken into account. The profiles are installed with the front side inside the opening. The racks are fixed to the rails using self-tapping flea screws.

The structure of the plasterboard partition.

Support profiles along the perimeter of door and window openings it is necessary to strengthen with the help of wooden bars, which are inserted inside the profile and fixed with self-tapping screws. The bar is selected according to the width of the profile. If the AU profile is used, then you can do without bars.

The next step is the installation of vertical support profiles CW along the entire length of the frame. The first profile from the adjacent wall is installed at a distance of 550 mm, all subsequent ones are strictly at a distance of 600 mm from each other, measuring the distance from the middle of each profile. Be sure to check the vertical installation of profiles.

In order to designate the top of the doorway and the horizontal edges of the window openings, the same UW guide profile is used. A piece of profile is cut off 30 cm larger than the width of the opening. On the front side, on the bend of the side bends of the profile, marks are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. The distance between the marks is equal to the width of the opening. The sidewalls of the profile are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, starting from the side of the edge of the profile to the marked mark and to the base of the profile. After that, the edges of the profile are bent, and a U-shaped design is obtained.

The resulting workpiece is put on with bent edges on the racks on the sides of the opening and rises to the required height. It is fixed with self-tapping screws, with which the edges of the profile are screwed to the racks. The obtained oblique ears are also screwed, which were formed on the main horizontal part of the workpiece. In the same way, the perimeter and window openings are formed.

This completes the formation of the frame. You can proceed to the process of fixing drywall sheets. Sheet sizes are standardized: 1200x2000 mm, 1200x2500 or 1200x3000 mm. In most cases, the ceilings in residential areas are higher and are at least 2.75 m, so one sheet in height may not be enough. It is necessary to add small strips of drywall.

The first sheet, which will be installed close to the edge, most often to the adjacent wall, must be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, a strip 50 mm wide is cut along its entire length on one side.

The result of the work

How to cut drywall?

For this, an ordinary construction knife is used with replaceable blades. The sheet must be placed on a flat, solid surface. The incision line is marked with a pencil and cut with a knife upper layer cardboard. After that, the sheet is shifted along the notch line to the edge of the support and gently breaks. Returning the sheet to its original position, it unfolds on edge and bends. On the second side, the cardboard is also cut, but not through. Turning the sheet over and shifting it to the edge of the support, you can finally chop it off.

To ensure a gap that can be subsequently repaired with putty, a bevel-bevel is formed on the cut edge of the sheet with a slope of 22.5 degrees or close to it. A special drywall planer is used for this. Also, a chamfer is made on that edge of the sheet, which will adjoin the GKL strip located above or below the sheet.

Fixing drywall sheets

Attach sheet to metal frame follows with the help of self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm. First of all, the edges of the sheet are fixed, and then along the edges and along the midline. For this, there is a special marking marking the position of the screws every 250 mm. The distance between the screws can vary from 10 to 25 cm, but no more. The self-tapping screws are screwed in so that the caps go a little deeper into the GKL and do not stick out above the wall level.

Important: Sheets are fixed at a distance of 10-15 mm from the floor. This is necessary to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

Having fixed the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece of plasterboard is cut off. It also forms a chamfer on the sides where it will dock to the bottom or top sheet and to the ceiling.

Subsequent sheets are installed entirely without chamfering and in a checkerboard pattern. That is, after the first row, a whole sheet of drywall is installed under the ceiling, and the missing part is below. Thus, one side of the wall is sheathed.

Laying wiring and installing sockets, switches

Before sheathing the second side, you can, if necessary, lay wires. To pass through the rack profiles, holes of 35 mm in size are made in them, strictly in the middle of the profile at the required height. It is desirable that the edges of the hole be concave to one side and bent so as not to damage the wires later. The wires are mounted in accordance with the requirements in a corrugated pipe.

Soundproofing plasterboard walls

For this, mineral wool is used. This will make the drywall wall not so transparent to sound, because without soundproofing, all the noise from one room will be heard in another. Easier to use roll version of this material with a width of 600 or 1200 mm. The second option is cut in half lengthwise. Cotton wool is laid tightly between rack-mount profiles without gaps. There is no need to additionally fix it. For reliability, you can form horizontal jumpers from wooden beam along the width of the wall, on which mineral wool of a shorter length than the height of the ceilings will rest. This method is suitable for places where there is a risk of moisture getting inside the wall. However, sufficient ventilation of the interior must also be ensured.

Completion of the plasterboard wall

After that, you can sheathe the second side of the wall. After the second side of the wall is sheathed, you can start filling all the end surfaces.

Between the sheets of drywall there is a distance of 100 mm formed by chamfers, which is somewhat recessed. The joints are glued with a serpentine mounting mesh and compared with general level walls with starting putty. Finishing putty compares all installation sites of self-tapping screws or the entire surface, especially if the wall is subsequently painted or glued thin wallpaper. With the help of abrasive meshes and a grater, the putty layer is finally compared. After that, the wall is ready for cladding with any suitable material.

Video: do-it-yourself plasterboard wall formation

Few property owners can rejoice smooth walls in a house or apartment. Even in our time, having received new housing, you have to level the walls, ceiling, floor with your own hands. Furnishing an apartment requires large material and monetary costs. In order to somehow save on future expenses, you have to do the work with my own hands. Skillful hands- the main trump card in the work!

Gyprock is in great demand for building finishing. Plasterboard wall cladding is used everywhere. In another way, gypsum board is also called drywall. This harmless, environmentally friendly building material has become simply indispensable in finishing work. The name of drywall reports immediately all the information about itself. These are sheets of cardboard glued together. Gypsum fills the space between the sheets. Such construction material non-toxic and versatile. Many try to make a frame for drywall with their own hands, without resorting to the support of specialists.

You can't do without special knowledge and skills in working with tools.

Two ways to install drywall

The decoration of the walls with drywall depends on the material from which they are made. If the wall is made of reinforced concrete blocks, panels, then frameless installation is suitable without any problems. The surface is cleaned of any dust, plaster, primed. Then the sheets are simply glued with special glue. Adhesive is selected depending on the surface material. In all other cases, you need to make a frame first. This method of installation will be called frame. The frame for drywall is very convenient: it hides all the irregularities, communications. It is used when finishing turnkey apartments. List of tools for work:

1. Drill.
2. Cutter.
3. Putty knife.
4. Building level.
5. Plumb.
6. Screwdriver.
7. Thin cord.
8. Hacksaw, electric jigsaw.
9. Metal scissors.

Materials used for the installation of drywall:

1. Drywall sheets.
2. Guide profile PN 28×27.
3. Profile for ceiling PP 60×27.
4. Self-tapping screw
5. Suspension straight.

If the plan also includes repairing the ceiling and floor, then first of all take care of the walls. The frame will have to rest on a solid floor base.

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Important steps for mounting the frame

The first step is to measure the surface. If the dimensions from above and below converge, then you can further make the frame of the walls with your own hands. If there is a difference, then when marking the walls, you need to take into account this difference, plus the distance under the guide, so that the corners are straight. The second stage - we retreat from the wall 3-4 cm, on the ceiling at the same distance we screw in a self-tapping screw. We screw another screw in the floor below, pull a thin cord from ceiling to floor. We mark everything with a pencil. Alignment should be done according to building level or plumb.

We do this in all corners of the room, getting the outline of the frame. We remove the thin cord. The third stage - we attach the guides along the entire contour of the frame. The guides are wooden, made of galvanized rolled steel, channel-shaped. Their length reaches 6 m. We choose the size according to the length of the wall, we cut it if necessary. We make alignment by level or plumb. The fourth stage is to make guide racks every 40-50 cm. Attach the racks with self-tapping screws or brackets, to the wall with dowels. Racks for strength are reinforced with special strips. Planks are made in approximately 50-70 cm. The frame is ready for wall cladding. The fifth stage is insulation, soundproofing. You can put cork mats or glass wool between the racks with your own hands. Some people use isover. Only correct installation will make the walls smooth and beautiful.