Plasterboard ceilings are single-level. Single-level, simple plasterboard ceiling

Repair of interior premises in a residential building, in an office or in a city apartment today is carried out on the basis of new technologies, where the main focus is on modern materials. Among the finishing materials, one of the main places in the interior design is occupied by gypsum boards. This material is unique in its technological properties and universal in its application. Due to its high technological characteristics, GKL is actively used in the decoration of ceilings. The most common type of ceiling design is considered to be single-level plasterboard ceilings. This technology is simple and clear enough to do everything by hand.

How a beautiful plasterboard suspended ceiling is made, and what materials are used for this, are the main aspects of this article. Having become acquainted in detail with all the subtleties and nuances of installation work, you can proceed directly to the implementation of the project.

What tasks does drywall used for finishing ceilings solve?

The use of drywall in finishing ceiling work is due to a number of reasons, each of which has a place in interior decoration. We often have to deal with the fact that there is an urgent need to level the existing ceiling surfaces. Ceilings are often not in perfect condition. We have to deal with technological and structural defects of the floors. Sometimes the old coating on the ceilings has already lost its attractiveness and relevance. There is an urgent need to quickly and least labor to eliminate the existing shortcomings.

In addition, in the process of repairing the apartment, technological innovations appear that carry a certain burden. Under the ceilings are the main intra-house communications. This includes the ventilation system, electrical wiring and communication lines. There is a natural desire to hide and disguise the main technological nodes and communications.

Finally, finishing work today is more focused on creating an interesting interior, so the desire to make the ceiling structure non-standard and original is quite justified. To create a visual zoning of the internal space, to move away from the traditional central arrangement of lamps, the installation of lamps for decorative lighting will allow.

All of these problems can be solved in stages, using old and proven technologies. However, today it is possible to cope with technical problems of this kind simply and easily by building a single-level beautiful and original plasterboard ceiling. To get the desired result, it is enough to have an idea about the technology of laying drywall on ceilings, consumables in the right amount and the necessary working tools.

On a note: in preparation for installation work, you will have to deal with GKL of standard sizes. Sheets can be 2.5 - 4.8 m long and 1.2 m wide. The thickness of the sheets varies between 8-24 mm.

Before starting installation work, you should make simple mathematical calculations, saving yourself from unnecessary expenses. According to experts, for interior finishing work with ceilings, it is recommended to use a gypsum board with a thickness of 8-9 mm. For the kitchen and rooms with high humidity, a moisture-resistant material is taken, which has the corresponding GKLV marking.

Important! Try to purchase drywall boards from reputable manufacturers and specialized retail outlets. Poor-quality drywall will not last long, causing a lot of trouble even during installation work.

Having figured out what material and how much it will be needed to decorate the ceiling surfaces, you can proceed directly to work.

Preparation for installation of single-level ceilings. Technical subtleties and nuances

If you know how to handle a screwdriver and a tape measure, you have an idea of ​​​​how to work with a grinder, you can make single-level plasterboard ceilings yourself. And quite acceptable quality.

When planning such a reconstruction, you immediately solve the questions you are facing:

• level the ceiling to a perfectly flat state;
• hide cords, cables and pipes;
• prepare the technological base for the installation of new fixtures.

When working with drywall, you should adhere to certain requirements, technical subtleties and nuances. Despite this, working with drywall is a pleasure. A small dent on the front surface of the sheet is easily removed during the subsequent puttying of the finished ceiling. The material is easy to cut and fits perfectly on the prepared frame. However, there are some limitations in this case. Single-level ceilings, built on the basis of a metal frame, significantly reduce the height of the premises.

Important! For small apartments, it is not recommended to lower the ceilings by more than 10 cm. As a rule, suspended single-level systems are designed to lower the height of the room by only 5-7 cm.

Another important aspect is the conditions under which the ceiling surface will be installed. Ceilings should be dealt with after the walls have already been put in order and the installation of window and door openings has been completed. Why? The thing is that during the subsequent installation of doors and windows, movements and shaking are possible, which can adversely affect the integrity of the drywall surface. The finished walls are a guideline for the subsequent installation of the frame and the laying of cut pieces of plasterboard.

Upon completion of the finishing work inside the room, a certain microclimate should be established. Drywall is very sensitive to sudden changes in temperature and humidity levels. In the warm season, try to avoid drafts, but in winter, before starting work, it is better to stock up on a heater.

Installation of a single-level ceiling. Stages of work

Any installation work begins with a selection of tools. In order for everything to go smoothly and according to the knurled scheme, you will need:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• mounting knife;
• roulette;
• building level;
• sandpaper.

With this set, you can cope with the task on your own. Of the consumables, it is necessary to purchase a starting, longitudinal and bearing profile. Self-tapping screws, crabs and dowels are used as fastening equipment. Finishing work consists in filling the places of fastening of sheets and in sealing joints.

The first stage is the installation of profiles

In order to build a single-level ceiling of excellent quality from plasterboard, beautiful and original, with your own hands, all subsequent actions must be done in stages. Ceiling work begins in a prepared room with the installation of profiles. These elements of the future design must be installed around the entire perimeter of the room, strictly observing the horizontal position. Starting from the lowest section of the base ceiling surface, a control line is drawn using the level. This mark, relative to which the profiles will be mounted in the future. We use galvanized CD profiles and UD starting profiles.

With the help of a grinder, fragments of profiles of certain sizes are cut and installed along the outlined line around the entire perimeter of the room. Dowels are used for mounting metal profiles in concrete or brick walls. The step between the attachment points should not be more than 30-40 cm.

The second stage is the installation of suspensions and guides

Having coped with the installation of guide profiles, you can proceed to the installation of suspensions. The marking of the ceiling in this case is carried out taking into account the location of the guide profiles. The quality of laying pieces of drywall depends on how the guides are installed.

Important! at each stage, try to check the horizontal level of the installed part with a level. All suspensions and guides must be in the same plane, without sudden changes in height.

The guides must be laid in such a way that when installing the GKL sheets, the bearing elements fall on the central part of the sheet and reach its edges.

Having made the markup, start installing the suspensions. These structural elements should be fixed to the draft ceiling surface only with dowels. Otherwise, with insufficient fastener strength, the risk of collapse of the finished ceiling structure increases. Hangers are not fixed tightly. There should be a slight backlash, which will allow the cut pieces of drywall to be freely attached to the guides in the future.

After the hangers are fixed, mount the profiles. For this purpose, a certain distance must be observed. Longitudinal profiles are fixed at a distance of 40cm from each other. Cross profiles are already mounted at a distance of 60 cm from each other. When the installation of the frame is completed, you can proceed to intermediate technological work.

To fill the interceiling space in order to increase sound and heat insulation, mineral wool is usually laid.

Important! All wires and cables passing under the ceiling are recommended to be laid in special corrugated fireproof channels. Prepare the connectors in the places where the fixtures are connected.

The third stage - the installation of drywall

It should be said that a properly mounted frame is the key to the success of all work when equipping single-level plasterboard ceilings. The horizontality of the entire structure is one of the main conditions. If these requirements are not met, distortion may occur and, accordingly, the new ceiling surface may crack. This will be due to the fact that drywall does not tolerate dynamic stress very well.

GKL pieces cut to size are treated on both sides with a primer solution. This is done to increase the stability of the entire array to external influences. The sheets are laid across the longitudinal profiles. Do not forget that it is necessary to leave a technological gap of 3-5 mm near the wall itself. Installation always starts from the corner and the wall opposite the entrance to the room. The gap between the ceiling and walls is needed due to the fact that the new ceiling will definitely breathe, acclimatizing to new conditions.

On a note: self-tapping screws are used for fixing sheets of GKL. The fastener is screwed into the plane of the sheet in such a way that the cap is recessed and does not protrude. The subsequent quality of the surface depends on this.

Drywall sheets should be fastened in 20mm increments. The minimum step is 15cm. The maximum allowable joint width between pieces of drywall is 2.5 mm. The thinner the seam, the easier it is to putty in the future. When installing drywall, immediately make holes for lighting fixtures.

Conclusion

After completing the installation of drywall on the frame, you get an almost ready-made new ceiling. Now you can not see any irregularities and defects. All communications are successfully hidden, the ground for the installation of lighting equipment has been prepared. There are no particular difficulties in this work. The only thing that requires the installation of single-level ceilings is the sequence of each stage and compliance with the technology. Let's summarize. Single-level ceilings made of plasterboard are:

1. Always comfortable, fashionable and stylish;
2. A quick way to eliminate defects on ceilings, hide communications and equip a new type of lighting;
3. Strong and stable frame for the suspension system;
4. Convenient and clear way of laying;
5. Practical, durable and easy to use ceiling surface.

Today we will analyze how to install the simplest single-level plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. In another way, it is often called a suspended ceiling. Let's take a closer look at the advantages and disadvantages of drywall, what will be needed for its installation, marking the ceiling, the procedure for installing the frame and its cladding, how and how to seal the joints of the GK-sheets, and also how to avoid cracks. Go!

Pros and cons of drywall as a material for finishing the ceiling before plastering

The main advantages of the material:

• Drywall allows you to level surfaces of any curvature, while the maximum layer of plaster on the ceilings cannot exceed 15 mm;
• The Civil Code allows you to easily hide (or at least disguise) the existing communications and structures: wires, pipes, beams;
• Plasterboard ceiling allows you to realize almost any of your fantasies in terms of lighting;
• Design: countless shapes, two, three levels, niches for lighting;
• Relative ease of construction;
• The possibility of using heat and sound insulation;
• No "wet" processes during installation - no need to wait several days for the surface to dry.

Disadvantages of drywall:

• A significant reduction in the height of the room (depending on the curvature of the original ceiling and the possible need to install recessed fixtures) by at least 5 cm;
• The relative complexity of installation and the need for tools such as a hammer drill and a screwdriver (read how to choose a screwdriver);
• The potential for cracks to appear at the joints of sheets in the future (we will look at how to avoid this);
• The need for the help of a partner.

Knowing all the pros and cons of drywall, it is impossible to unequivocally recommend it or not recommend it. Everything follows from the analysis of a particular room, but in most cases, its use is still preferable.

In this article, we will consider the most common way to install a false ceiling with your own hands - in one level on direct suspensions.

Tools and accessories

Necessary accessories for plasterboard ceiling installation:

1. Guide profiles PN 28×27 mm.
2. Ceiling profiles PP 60×27 mm.
3. Sealing tape.
4. Anchor wedges.
5. “Dowel-nails” (ordinary dowels and self-tapping screws will not work, since the holes in the profiles are larger than self-tapping screw heads - 8 mm, and even more fuss with them).
6. Cord breaking device.
7. Hydraulic level / laser plane builder.
8. Bubble building level 2 m.
9. Rule aluminum 2.5 m.
10. Drywall sheets.
11. Putty for seams GK (Uniflot).
12. Reinforcing tape for seams (serpyanka).
13. Roulette.
14. A hammer.
15. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting the Civil Code).
16. Perforator + drill.
17. Screwdriver.
18. Self-tapping screws for metal 25–35 mm (black, frequent pitch).
19. Self-tapping screws with a press washer.
20. Acrylic primer.
21. Single-level connectors CRAB.
22. Metal scissors.
23. Heat and sound insulation materials (if required).
24. Profile extensions (if required).
25. A set of spatulas (narrow, wide and for corners).

In the picture, all accessories follow in order:

It should be noted right away that much of what is now sold in hardware stores under the guise of profiles and suspensions is just foil. We offer to opt for Knauf products - you can recognize their profiles and sheets by the corresponding stamp.

A few words about the hydraulic level. It consists of two small flasks with water connected by a thin tube. The principle of its operation is based on the law of physics about communicating vessels, which makes horizontal marking with its help extremely accurate. When installing the ceiling, you can’t do without it (unless, of course, you have a laser level), because marking the entire perimeter of a room with a bubble level is not a quick or easy task.

With the hydraulic level, we only need to mark the corners, and then connect them by applying a “beat” (this is the simple name for a string fender). There are many types of drywall sheets. You and I need to know only two: ordinary and moisture resistant. It is unnecessary to say something additional about the first type, but the second one is used in rooms with high humidity, that is, in kitchens and bathrooms due to reduced moisture absorption achieved through the use of hydrophobic additives in gypsum. To distinguish these two species from each other is very simple - by color. Ordinary drywall has the color of plain cardboard - gray. Moisture-resistant sheets have a greenish color. For ceilings, sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm are most often used.

Now about the sealing tape. It is self-adhesive, made of porous polymer material, width - from 30 mm. It is necessary for tight mating of frame elements with supporting structures, it also improves the acoustic properties of our ceiling. In addition, it is believed that it plays a significant role in protecting against cracks, allowing the structure to expand / contract slightly.

Marking, mounting guides

First we need to determine the lowest corner of the room. We take a tape measure and measure the distance from floor to ceiling in each corner, it is advisable to do this in the center of the room, just in case - you never know, suddenly the ceiling is sagging. We found the lowest corner, retreated 5 cm (if recessed fixtures are not planned) or 8 cm (if planned), put a mark. From this mark, using the hydraulic level, set aside the horizontal to all other corners. Now it remains to connect the labels with a spacer. Together with an assistant, pull the cord properly between the marks on one wall, pull it with your free hand and release it sharply. The cord, hitting the wall, will color it - here you have the finished horizontal. We do the same for all walls. Here's what we get:

It's time to fix the guide profiles on the walls. To do this, first attach one of them to the wall along the line and mark the future holes along the finished holes with a marker (if the holes on the profile are located far from the edge, you need to make additional holes with a perforator, stepping back from the edges by 5–10 cm), then put it aside for a while. We drill holes in the marked places. Again we take the profile and stick a sealing tape on it, after which we again apply it to the line and fix the dowel-nails to the wall. There must be at least three attachment points per profile. Here's what happens in the end:

Next, you should mark the axes of the main profiles. But first, let's decide which profiles to call. The main ones will be those profiles that are attached to the base with suspensions, and the carrier profiles are those that are attached only to the main ones. It is more logical to place the main profiles across (so it is less likely that they will have to be increased). The width of the sheet is 1.2 m, the step of the profiles must be less than an integer number of times. Usually it is 40 cm. We mark out:

Important: mark their position (both main and load-bearing) not only on the ceiling, but also on the wall under the horizontal line.

Carriers (with such a step of the main ones) are needed only at the transverse joints of the GCR, that is, their “step” is 2.5 m, which means that the step of the suspensions should be less than an integer number of times. 50 cm is suitable for us, but the first row of suspensions will not be 50, but 50/2 \u003d 25 cm from the wall, the next one will be 25 + 50 \u003d 75 cm, etc.

For marking, we take a suspension, apply it to the ceiling at the right points and mark with a marker the places for holes for anchor wedges. For one suspension, at least two are required.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing a suspended ceiling frame

We wait until the dust settles, stuff the pockets with anchor wedges and fasten the hangers. Don't forget to stick the sealing tape on them first. After fixing the hanger, carefully pull its ends down; during the subsequent fastening of the main profiles, they should not bend.

Now let's install the main profiles. If the width of the room is less than 3 meters, simply cut them to the length of the room minus 1 cm and insert them into the guides. If the room is larger, we lengthen each profile so that the resulting profile is again 1 cm shorter than the room. Moreover, the connections of neighboring ones should not be on the same line! And there should be a suspension near the extension cord. You need to start attaching profiles to suspensions from the corners of the room. Your assistant will need to attach the rule to the guides on the walls, forming an angle, the grip is as wide as possible so that the rule does not bend (this is very important!). Thus, it will support our PP, and it will stand on the same level with the guides. Your task at this moment is to fix it to the suspension on both sides with four (2 per side) self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws with a press washer are best taken without a drill. You will do it longer, but everything will come out very strong. So, we fixed it near one corner, we also fix it near the second. If it is not possible to fix the middle of the profile in this way, you should simply attach a rule along it from below, then we will fix it without any problems. We bend the excess length of the suspensions up (or pre-cut it, as in the pictures). We control the process with a two-meter level.

Using the same method, we hang the second profile, relying so far only on the guides. Then we go to the opposite wall, we mount 2 more main PCBs. If there are more between these four, we expose them, relying on the already fixed ones. But if the room is very large, we continue to go from the edges to the middle and, as soon as it becomes possible, we use the already fixed profiles to expose the rest.

You can pull the cord and expose it, but the cords tend to sag, besides, in this case it is much more difficult to hold the profile during vibration from a screwdriver. Let's look at our result:

Now we hang CRABs on the places where the profiles will join, and fix them with four self-tapping screws, two per side. If you lower the ceiling slightly, please note that then you will have to insert the CRABs into the main PCB BEFORE they are installed. In general, make sure that the connectors pass over the profiles.

As soon as all the CRABs are in place, we cut the supporting profiles (remember the margin of 1 cm) and insert them into them, fixing them with four self-tapping screws, each. Please note, we DO NOT fasten the carrier to the guide at the bottom with a self-tapping screw, but simply insert it. They will stick together when we sew the sheets. If it is required to make soundproofing of the ceiling, mineral wool is usually used. It is cut into rectangles slightly larger than the frame cells and simply pushed into them, additionally clinging to the curved suspensions. That is, roughly speaking, it hangs on the frame. When working with it, use gloves and a respirator - the thing is extremely unpleasant, but you will be surprised how well it absorbs sound. It will be useful to study the article about soundproofing an apartment with your own hands,.

Video: Suspended ceiling from Knauf sheets

Installation of drywall on the frame

Important: before starting the installation of drywall sheets, they must necessarily undergo acclimatization in the room - a couple of days, at least. In addition, the storage of sheets of the Civil Code is only allowed in a horizontal position.

Before installation, it is necessary to process the edges of the sheets - chamfer with a knife at an angle of 22.5 degrees. to a depth of 2/3 of the thickness of the sheet (of course, approximately); this applies to end edges that are not pasted over with cardboard. The sheets should be fastened from the corner, the recommended pitch of the screws is 17 cm, on adjacent sheets, the screws must be screwed in different directions. We try to maintain a distance of 10 mm from the factory edge of the sheet and 15 mm from the one we cut. The heads should be slightly recessed, but do not pierce the cardboard, check by touch. It is very important to sew the sheets apart, at least by a step of the main profiles (40.2 cm), and leave a small gap between them (2 mm), by the way, between the sheets and the walls - too . If the self-tapping screw does not stubbornly pierce the frame, we throw out and screw in another one, stepping back from the hole 5 cm.

We also attach to the guide profile. Surely there will be people who believe that this cannot be done - they say, this is what Knauf technology claims, for this it was necessary to insert the carrier profiles close to the guides. Indeed, in the materials of this company there is a drawing where there are no screws through the guide profile.

Therefore, for the purity of the experiment, we turn to Giprok's materials, and there we see the following:

Self tapping in place! But another one is missing here - the one that should be in the carrier profile! But Knauf is the opposite!

So, we attach the sheets to the PN. Another important detail. Do not allow sheet joints near the outer corner:

This rule also works in the case of multi-level ceilings in the absence of a wall:

The joint must be at least 10 cm from the corner. Violation of this rule threatens with an almost inevitable crack.

Let's summarize what we have done so far. Here is the floor plan of the main ceiling of our virtual room:

Now we know the whole technology of installing a plasterboard ceiling and can calculate how much material we need in reality. According to the drawing, we used: 99 suspensions, 8 sheets of civil code, at least 19 ceiling profiles, 8 guides, at least 24 CRABs.

Seam sealing

Before sealing the seams, they must be primed and wait for the primer to dry completely. When sealing, special extra strong putties are used. Knead a little, following the instructions on the bag. With the first layer we hammer in all the seams: both “ours” and factory ones (first we fill in the space between the sheet and the wall, then we apply a layer), as well as recesses from self-tapping screws. For factory ones, you will need a wide spatula. Particular care should be taken to fill the factory seams near the walls, now the main thing is that the putty does not stick out.

We are waiting for the putty to grab, and this will happen in a matter of minutes (in the case of Uniflot). For high-quality reinforcement of joints, a special Knauf Fugendeckstreifen Kurt paper tape is used. On the factory edges, the tape fits into the Uniflot layer, after which it is covered with it. On cut edges, you can also use Uniflot, or you can glue the tape on PVA so that it does not stick out so much. If you glue on Uniflot - pre-moisten the tape in water, otherwise it may turn out that you will not be able to expel a certain amount of putty from under the tape, and you will form a bump. And if the tape is moistened, the putty will glide well on it. At the corners, we recommend using a special spatula - with it everything will turn out faster and better. Kurt tape has a fold line in the center, especially for the convenience of gluing on inner corners. On seams with cut edges, the tape will give small protrusions, but that's okay - this is corrected by subsequent puttying the entire surface.

Ready. We have a surface ready for subsequent puttying. We minimized the possibility of cracks on the plasterboard ceiling, but to completely eliminate this possibility, we use it. It is glued to the entire area, previously already puttied, puttied again and painted. Yes, it takes a lot of time and effort, yes, the price of the issue is high. But the ceiling is guaranteed not to crack.

That's basically it. Now we can make a plasterboard ceiling at home with our own hands.

Today, there are many technologies for manufacturing ceilings: they can be one- or two-level, with a different type and design of the frame, etc. The most common type is a single-level ceiling made of drywall sheets on a metal frame. If a ceiling of this type is compared with a ceiling whose frame is made of wooden beads, then the advantages of the former are obvious. The construction of galvanized steel is superior to wood in many respects.

This is obvious - because of its physical properties, metal is much more technologically advanced than wood. The use of a metal profile allows you to create things that you should not even think about if wood is chosen as the working material. Due to the fact that the metal bends, the creation of semicircular structural elements is not difficult. A single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame is much easier to install, because the desired fixture can be easily made from metal.

And due to the standard dimensions of the necessary parts, there are no problems with their mechanical connection. It is for this reason that metal parts do not take much time to fit them. The noticeable disadvantages of metal structures include the increased complexity of processing technology, a larger number of typical fragments and frame parts, and worse thermal and sound insulation compared to wood. A single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame needs additional work, such as creating a heat-insulating layer, etc.

The most common frame design for a plasterboard ceiling based on a metal profile is similar to the simplest single-level wooden structure. Only instead of bars, metal guides are used (most often from galvanized steel). This design is very simple, and is used for the case of a small space between the drywall layer and the surface that this layer hides.

Single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame - the main stages of installation

First you need to prepare the surface of the floor for work. At this stage, you need to clean it of dirt, and repair the cavities with a special putty. The second stage of work involves the implementation of markup. Usually marking is done with a regular soft pencil. After completing the drawing of the position lines of all the necessary guides, you can proceed to the next step. You will need the required number of dowel-nails for mounting the ceiling sheathing from a profile of the PNP type 28x27 mm.

In the corners, in order for all the profiles to converge well, one should rest directly against the wall, and the second, which adjoins the first, should be cut off. You can do it differently: take a guide profile, bend it at the required angle and insert it into another profile. This option involves cutting the profile shelves, and additional fixation with self-tapping screws so that the profile bend becomes stronger. The installation of the sheathing on the bearing surface prepares the base for fixing the ceiling metal profiles. In addition, sheathing profiles will automatically act as guides for the load-bearing parts of the future frame.

A single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame, in addition to sheathing made along the boundaries of the ceiling in the room, requires in the process of its manufacture and marking on the ceiling plane. Lines are drawn on the ceiling with a pencil, in exact accordance with which the ceiling guide profiles will be attached. Given the dimensions of the plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to draw lines in such a way as not to miss the distance between the centers of the ceiling metal profiles. If this operation is performed anyhow, then the drywall sheets will not be able to be correctly placed on the profiles. It is advisable to attach one drywall sheet to 3 profiles at once to prevent it from sagging. Only in this case, a single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame will have an impeccable appearance.

The fixing positions of the hangers must be pre-marked on the marking lines for the ceiling profiles. Positions are drawn with a pencil every 30-35 cm. Dowel-nails can be used to connect all suspensions to the ceiling. Anchors will provide a more reliable connection.

Then you need to cut the ceiling metal profiles to give them the desired size. The length should correspond to the length of the room where a single-level plasterboard ceiling is mounted on a metal frame, minus 2.5-4 mm. This will ensure easy entry of the ceiling metal profiles into the guides. It happens that the length of the room is so great that the length of the uncut profile is not enough. This difficulty can be circumvented by laying two metal profiles one on top of the other, or by using a special extension. Docking points should be additionally fixed with direct hangers.

After fixing the ends of the ceiling metal profile with self-tapping screws, you can begin to attach them to direct suspensions. This is done with a cordless drill. The fundamental point is the strictly perpendicular orientation of the drill relative to the working surface. If this rule is ignored, then the self-tapping screw will pop out all the time during drilling. A single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame is almost ready. The next operation is the sheathing of the assembled metal frame with plasterboard sheets. But before that, you need to put a thermal insulation layer. After the metal frame is lined with drywall, the work can be considered completed.

Conclusion

A single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame, although not difficult to work with, however, its installation is regulated by a number of rules and has some limitations. Without knowledge of these rules, no professional civil engineer will take up the matter. Therefore, a non-specialist who decides to take on a single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame is strongly recommended to familiarize themselves with them.

1. Always do more margin of safety

This means the following: the weight of some structural element is 10 kg, then the fastening must be done with the expectation of twice the weight. For a load of 10 kg, buy dowel-nails that can hold twenty-kilogram structures.

2. Use as little detail as possible

If this is done correctly, then such a mechanical system will be built in less time, and much more reliably. If more parts are required to increase strength, or the same number of them, but designed for more powerful loads, choose the second option.

3. Use tools like plumb and level as often as possible

If most of the load-bearing elements of a single-level ceiling are oriented strictly according to the level or plumb line, the strength of such a structure increases significantly. It is also worth working with dimensions as carefully as possible - do the calculation of dimensions at each stage several times, apply a tape measure before each important operation. Following these simple rules, you will be able to work out a completely suitable and reliable single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame on your own.

Gone are the days when we watched "foreign" films, envied the real envy of the inhabitants of Europe on the topic, they say, how good it is at home: their plaster does not fall off, what beautiful wallpapers, and we have a simple whitewash, and the ceiling What an even one!

Today, not only the technique of installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling has come down to us, but also a detailed description of how to install it with our own hands.

Installation was once a dream beyond the reach of the common people. Today, not only the technique of installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling has come down to us, but also a detailed description of how to install it with our own hands.

Do-it-yourself plastic surgery on the ceiling

Drywall is simply magical material for those who have been trying unsuccessfully for many years to veil the ceiling of their apartment with ceiling tiles or even to carefully putty everything on their own. If you have golden hands that can handle a screwdriver and a puncher as masterly as grandmother's hands with knitting needles and threads, it will not be difficult to decorate an apartment with your own hands with a single-level one. In addition, it will be possible to improve the lighting equipment of rooms, bypassing such problems: “Where to hide cords and wires that are unnecessary for the eye?”, “How to attach this light bulb?”. We take the necessary tools and storm the ceiling!

Back to index

A set of necessary tools

GKL is a very convenient material that is easy to process. Even if in the process of work you accidentally get a dent on the GKL canvas, it's okay. When everything is ready, the bumps can simply be puttied. By the way, GCR is of two types, which differ in thickness: 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. It is better to use GKL in an apartment that is thinner. Do not forget that the installation of drywall makes the ceiling lower by at least 5 centimeters, and it is much easier for a beginner to work with gypsum plasterboard with a thickness of 9.5 mm.

Scheme of the frame of a single-level ceiling

It is impossible to do the installation of a plasterboard ceiling with bare hands. Therefore, you need to prepare carefully. The first step is to prepare the necessary tools. you will not be able to do without the following equipment:

• spatula;
• roulettes;
• perforator;
• scissors for metal;
• screwdriver;
• special mesh for putty;
• bubble level;
• sandpaper;
• planer;
• hammer;
• construction knife;
• gypsum plaster;
• cord breaking device;
• drywall (GKL).

Back to index

The perfect do-it-yourself ceiling

First of all, along the perimeter of the ceiling, you need to draw a line along which the starting profile will be attached. This is where the level comes in handy so that the lines are even. In the corners of the room, you need to put marks, which should be at a distance of up to 20 cm from the main ceiling. This distance is useful in order to hide the wiring under the finishing material. Using the level of the label, you need to connect in one line.

When the sheets of drywall hang perfectly evenly over the room, it's time to start puttying.

Then we fix the starting profiles on the dowel-nails. The distance between the fasteners must be at least 35 centimeters and not more than 50 centimeters. Now you can start marking the base of the ceiling for the bearing and guiding suspensions. When the ceiling is already “decorated” with parallel lines, we begin to mount the suspensions. The dimensions of the suspensions are taken into account individually for each room and are attached to the ceiling using 40 mm dowel-nails. A little more, and you will do the work, for which you would give a considerable amount, with your own hands.

The most painstaking work did not end there. Now you need to insert the main guides into the starting profile that is located around the perimeter. Please note that you need to leave a backlash of 1-2 mm. This will ensure that the ceiling remains level during thermal deformation. We attach the installation of guides to the suspensions on both sides with self-tapping screws. Don't forget to leave a backlash. The installation of longitudinal profiles must also be done with fastening so that the frame is rigid. The metal profile is cut with scissors for metal. The distance between the longitudinal profiles must be left 400 mm - with longitudinal fastening of sheets, 600 mm - with transverse fastening.

With your own hands, you can somewhat insulate your apartment. This issue is especially relevant for those who live on the top floor. Mineral wool used for insulation must be carefully laid out between the profiles. The next item we have is the installation of drywall.

Back to index

Drywall - a delicate matter

Now you can proceed to the solemn part called "Installation of drywall." At first glance it seems that this is a very complicated matter, however, as soon as you start working, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult. Raise the sheet to the profile and fasten it with self-tapping screws. The interval between the screws should be 10-15 centimeters. When docking sheets, you need to be more careful with the ends of the GKL sheets. The ends of the GKL sheets with rounded ends should be in this shape. Don't think it's a marriage. This is done so that cracks do not appear in these places after puttying, because the puttying layer will be much thicker in these places than in the rest. If some self-tapping screws protrude into the GKL higher than 1 mm, they must be carefully tightened deeper. Thus, we will facilitate the process of puttying.

In places where you decide to install lighting devices, you need to carefully cut holes of the desired size with a knife. When the drywall sheets hang perfectly evenly over the room, all the necessary actions have already been completed - it's time to start puttying.

Gypsum board is one of the most popular materials used for ceiling decoration. And the attractive appearance and durability of this material largely depend on how correctly the frame was designed and mounted under the main wooden or concrete ceiling. Mistakes and shortcomings in this matter, made through ignorance or inattention, will require redoing the entire work. Therefore, it is very important to study how the frame is arranged and how it is done.

Let's start with the basics. A frame is a load-bearing structure created from a set of linear elements, such as a wooden beam or a steel profile. Its main task is to hold drywall sheets under the ceiling, since it is almost impossible to fix them in any other way. The second task that the frame performs is the alignment of the ceiling finish. It is unlikely that anyone will be news that the ceilings in most apartments are far from perfectly even. And the suspended structure of the profile and drywall sheets corrects this defect and gives a smooth and attractive surface. And the last task performed by the frame is to provide space for the wires that lead to the fixtures built into the drywall sheets.

Important! In addition to the above functions, the frame is used to create a multi-level ceiling finish. But more on this will be discussed below.

Frame types

There are several criteria by which plasterboard suspended ceiling frames are classified. The first and main - according to the material used.

In turn, the frame of the metal profile is divided into two main subspecies.

Another criterion by which the frame is classified is the number of levels.

Drywall prices

drywall

Now consider the components, when connected in a certain system, a ready-made and durable frame is obtained.

Accessories - profiles

The frame design includes profiles, connectors and fasteners. This part of the article talks about metal profiles, their sizes and how exactly the elements are used to create a false ceiling.

Important! For rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, toilet or kitchen, a galvanized profile should be used, as it is more resistant to corrosion. A ceiling with such a frame will last much longer, a small overpayment for its elements is quite justified and reasonable.

In general, the profile is a long product made of a metal sheet coated with zinc. The cross section and size of the profiles depend on what tasks it performs in the frame structure.

Important! PNP should not be confused with the usual guide profile, abbreviated as PN. The latter is mainly used when creating frames for plasterboard partitions and finishing walls with this material.

Table. The main characteristics of the profiles used in the creation of suspended ceilings.

Accessories - hangers and connectors

By themselves, profiles that act as beams are useless - they need to be attached to the ceiling and connected to each other. This task is taken over by the corresponding components - suspensions and connectors. Let's consider them in a little more detail.

The second most important frame element after the profiles is the U-shaped suspension. Roughly speaking, this is a rolled steel bracket 27 mm wide and 60 mm high. The width corresponds to the width of the PP profile. The “paws” of the suspension along their length have many paired holes with an equal spacing. The base of the element has holes for fasteners - anchor bolts for concrete floors and self-tapping screws for wood. The greatest load falls on the suspensions, so it is impossible to save on their number in any case.

Ceiling profile prices

ceiling profile

The task performed by connectors is clear from their name - to connect profiles to each other in a certain position. There are many varieties of this element.

Important! When calculating the amount of materials needed, keep in mind that profiles, connectors, hangers and fasteners need a reserve - an additional 10-20% of the required amount. If any of the elements is damaged or turns out to be defective, the reserve will come in handy.

Accessories - fasteners

So, the profiles are considered, the connectors too. Now it's time to figure out how all the elements of the frame are fastened together. The main type of fastener used to create a false ceiling is self-tapping screws, better known as self-tapping screws.

To connect profiles to each other, use:

• piercing self-tapping screws - LN9, LN9.5, LN12, etc.;
• drilling screws - LB9, LB11, LB16, etc.

The number after the letter designation is the length of the screw in millimeters. The diameter of the self-tapping fastener for the profile in most cases is 3.5 mm.

Important! There is a type of fastener for profiles with a thin cap. This type should be used if you want to screw in a screw in a place to which a sheet of drywall will then adjoin.

Suspensions and the frame itself are attached to the ceiling with dowels or screws (for concrete floors). If the creation of a false ceiling takes place in a wooden house, then self-tapping screws are used, but much more than the “bugs” connecting the frame elements.

Planning and calculation

The first step in creating a frame for finishing the ceiling with plasterboard is planning and calculation. To do this, you will need several sheets of paper, a ruler, square, pens and pencils. And for directly measuring the room, you need a ruler and a level (preferably a laser one, but a hydraulic one is also suitable). To subsequently divide the ceiling into zones and plan it, you will need a marker and a chop thread.

Step 1. The length of all walls is measured. Keep in mind that even in a rectangular room, opposite walls can have different lengths. This is not so noticeable to the eye, but it is of great importance when drawing up a frame plan.

Step 2 The height is measured from floor to ceiling in each corner of the room, in the middle of each wall and in the center of the room.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

screwdriver

Step 3 Based on the data obtained in the previous steps, the corner with the smallest height is found. At this point, the distance from the ceiling to the horizontal plane is measured, in which the plasterboard ceiling will be located. The height of the false ceiling is calculated depending on two factors - the total height of the room and those communications and objects that need to be placed between the drywall and the concrete floor. The optimal value is from 50 to 65 mm, this is enough for laying wiring and installing spotlights.

Step 4 With the help of a level, a pencil and a thread, a false ceiling line is applied around the perimeter of the room, along which metal profiles or wooden beams will be installed.

Step 5 A room diagram is created on paper on a certain scale and with the exact values ​​\u200b\u200bof the length of each wall obtained by measuring.

Step 6 The attachment points of the guide profile and fasteners are applied. The latter should be located at intervals of 25-40 cm.

Step 7 Lines of ceiling profiles are applied to the diagram. For a honeycomb scheme, the distance between them should be 60 cm - half the length of a standard drywall sheet. For a transverse scheme, the distance is from 30 to 40 cm. It is important to remember that the edges of two adjacent sheets are attached to the same profile, and in the drawing all lines pass through the middle of the PCB. Pay special attention to this point in the next steps.

Step 8 The scheme is supplemented by the points of location of the suspensions (every 40-60 cm) and the points where the lamps and wiring elements were mounted.

Step 9 From a paper sheet, the scheme is transferred to a pre-prepared ceiling using a tape measure and thread. The horizontal plane is controlled by a level.

Step 10 Based on the plan, the required number of profiles, connectors and fasteners is calculated.

Important! Drywall sheets and, accordingly, the frame for it are located along the direction indicated by the windows in the room, that is, the long side is perpendicular to the plane of the glass and the frame.

For more precise dimensions for different types of ceiling, see the instructions below.

Ceiling surface preparation

Let us briefly describe the measures for preparing the ceiling for the installation of the frame and false ceiling.

Cellular frame - installation

To create a frame, from tools, in addition to the level, thread and marker, you will need a stepladder, a screwdriver, a hammer and a puncher.

We assume that the ceiling has already been planned and divided using a grid into cells measuring 60 by 60 cm, and we will describe in stages the process of installing suspensions and profiles directly.

Photo of a frame with crab connectors for attaching drywall sheets to the ceiling

Step 1. A guide profile is installed along the line marked on the wall. Before that, a sealing tape is glued to the side adjacent to the wall and holes for dowels are created at intervals of 30-40 cm. Guides are installed around the entire perimeter of the room and are attached to each other using corner connectors.

Prices for crab frame connectors

crab frame connector

Step 2 Hangers are installed 30 cm from the wall along the lines of the main frame profiles. Further, the suspensions are mounted with dowels in increments of 60 cm so that each suspension is in the middle between the future jumper profiles. The "legs" of the suspensions are bent down.

Step 3 Ceiling profiles are being prepared. 5-10 mm is cut off from the value approved according to the drawing, so that when the temperature rises, the plasterboard ceiling does not deform due to the expansion of the profiles.

Step 4 Ceiling profiles are inserted into the guides and connected with self-tapping bugs with suspensions.

To align on a horizontal plane, you will need a level and helpers.

This is where a magnet comes in handy. We cling to the magnet on the profile. A strip of masking tape with a printed line is pasted on the magnet. The laser must be set taking into account the distance from the line on the magnet to the surface of the carrier profile. Combining a line and a beam, we will very simply and quickly produce a structure that is ideally even in the plane of the horizon.

Step 5 As soon as the main PPs are mounted, jumpers are installed between them from metal profiles cut to 590-595 mm. Fastening is done crosswise using a crab connector and small self-tapping screws.

Crab mount

The profile is inserted with one end into the start, and the other into the "crab"

Important! On the reverse side of the frame, facing the ceiling, a sealing tape is glued. It is advisable to apply it even before the profile is fixed on the hangers.

The sealing tape is a porous material with a self-adhesive backing, 30 mm wide. It is used to fasten the structure so that the plasterboard ceiling frame fits snugly against the concrete and transmits less sounds.

Cross frame - installation

Compared to cellular, this design requires less material - there is no need for jumpers and, accordingly, for crab connectors. But at the same time, the gap between the individual transverse profiles decreases - instead of 60 cm, 40-50 cm are needed.

Step 1. As described above in the article, the ceiling is marked out - a line for the guides is set, with the help of a thread the mounting points of the profiles are beaten off. In addition, you need to determine the angle as close as possible to 90 degrees.

Step 2 Holes are drilled in the wall for the guide profile in increments of 30-40 cm.

Step 3 The guide profile is glued with sealing tape and fastened to the wall with screws and dowels.

Step 4 As for the honeycomb frame, hangers are installed 30 cm from the wall and 60 cm from each other. The ends of the elements are bent down.

Step 5 The transverse ceiling profile is cut to the desired length. In order not to damage the drywall during thermal expansion and prevent warping, the “extra” 5 mm are cut off.

Video - How to cut a UD and CD profile with your own hands

Step 6 The profile is glued with sealing tape from the bottom side, inserted into the guides and attached to the hangers with small self-tapping screws called bugs.

Multi-level frame - installation

There are many variations of a multi-level suspended ceiling, its shape, design and other things, and their detailed description is a good topic for a separate article. The ceiling is also considered here, where both tiers and the sides between them are made of drywall.

Prices for ceiling lights

ceiling lamps

Step 1. The first thing is markup. Here, the creation of a drawing and its transfer to the ceiling are paid twice as much attention as for a single-level ceiling - the complexity of the task is much higher.

Step 2 Lines of guide profiles for the upper and lower levels are marked on the wall, holes for fasteners are drilled.

Step 3 The guide profiles of the upper level are attached to the wall. Details are described in previous instructions.

Step 4 Direct hangers are installed. The interval between them can be reduced (and, therefore, more suspensions can be placed), since the load on the floor and frame will be higher.

Step 5 Top-level ceiling profiles are mounted, as for a single-level ceiling. You can use both transverse and cellular construction.

Step 6 Rails of the lower level are attached to the wall.

Step 7 One of the straight profiles is cut into many vertical posts, which will be the "boards" between the ceiling levels. Racks are attached to the top-level support structure using tiered or T-connectors.

Step 8 An arched profile is attached to the bottom of the racks. It can be replaced with a guide profile with even cuts and folds in the right places.

Step 9 Load-bearing PCBs are inserted between the arched profile and the guides of the lower level.

Video - Installation of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling

Thus, a frame is obtained for a multi-level ceiling, where an additional load falls on the upper level. In such work, the help of an experienced master is very important.

Now, after reading this article, you know how a false ceiling frame works. It remains only to acquire materials, tools, a great desire and the help of relatives or friends.

Video - Frame for plasterboard on the ceiling. Mounting