Construction of a roof in a house made of aerated concrete. How to fix the Mauerlat on aerated concrete wall? Bitumen-polymer roll options

Aerated concrete blocks are an excellent material for building a private low-rise cottage. The blocks are quite light and are distinguished by high thermal conductivity, which makes the finished building warm and structurally light. That is why a shallow foundation can be mounted under it, which makes the construction cost-effective. About how to build a house of aerated concrete with your own hands and at the same time achieve an excellent durable result, in our material below with detailed instructions.

Initial stages of work

It is necessary to start building a house from aerated concrete with design. Moreover, the execution design work must be carried out exclusively with the help of a specialist. The professional will take into account the features of the soil on the site and the climatic conditions of the building zone. Thanks to these parameters, it is possible to correctly select the optimal building materials (number, type, density of blocks), as well as calculate bearing capacity foundation.

Important: saving at this stage of the work is not worth it, since there is a risk of making incorrect calculations and getting cracks around the entire perimeter of the house as a result of its operation.

And when performing design work, it is advisable to carefully calculate the thickness of the wall blocks. Since it is they who provide warmth and optimal microclimate in a cottage. That is why the construction of houses from aerated concrete with their own hands is so important in Russia.

Foundation and site preparation

As a base for your gas-block house, two types of foundations are most often used:

• Belt shallow. Such a basis has a thickness of 40-70 cm and copes well with the bearing load. finished house because aerated concrete is lightweight. The foundation can be made tape monolithic, which is less expensive, or rubble concrete. The second option requires more time and human effort. However, both types of foundations are durable and reliable. The price of the tape frame will be significantly lower than the cost of the slab basis.
• If the soil in the area is fluffy, then under aerated concrete house suit monolithic foundation slab . Such a concrete cushion is also called a floating foundation. Its peculiarity is that it can maneuver in the soil of the site along with the building, not succumbing to the force of soil pressure during heaving seasons. Thus, a do-it-yourself house remains safe and sound, regardless of changes in the structure of the soil. Monolithic slab foundation pour concrete mixture over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future house and at the same time be sure to reinforce.

Important: all communications must be brought under the slab foundation before pouring it. Otherwise, then you will have to install sewer and water pipes into the walls, and raise the floor with the help of additional logs.

Ground work for the construction of a foundation of one type or another includes digging a trench or foundation pit, thorough compaction of the soil and the obligatory laying of a sand and gravel pad. concrete mix poured exclusively into wooden formwork, covered from the inside with sheets of roofing material.

The foundation in the dry and warm season dries from three to four weeks. The finished foundation must be carefully waterproofed from all sides in order to subsequently begin laying the waterproofing material. This will protect the aerated concrete from the penetration of moisture into it from the side of the soil.

After completing all the work, you can begin to build the walls of the house.

Start laying walls

For high-quality and proper construction of a house from aerated concrete with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare the tools and the building material itself.

Tip: during production, gas blocks are laid in batches on wooden pallets and carefully wrapped with a film to prevent a set of moisture material. In the same form, the gas block is sold from the warehouse. Therefore, when transporting aerated concrete to construction site it is desirable to arrange the blocks in such a way that they occupy a certain place under the awning. At the same time, it is not recommended to unpack pallets with blocks all at once. It is better to remove the film as needed in the blocks.

Important: pallets with building material can be stacked on top of each other, but no more than two in a row.

For construction works you will need the following tools and materials:

• The gas block itself in the right quantity;
• Adhesive mixture for laying aerated concrete (it is worth knowing what to lay aerated concrete material possible on cement mortar, but glue is still better);
• Reinforcing bars with a cross section of 8-10 mm (the number is calculated when designing a house);
• Masonry tools (trowel, mallet, level, cords, etc.).

So, first we prepare the adhesive mixture. It is diluted with water according to the instructions until a homogeneous mass is obtained, resembling thick sour cream in consistency. Subsequently, glue must be applied with a special carriage.

Important: if the house will be built in the cold season, then it is necessary to use a special winter mixture. You can find it in hardware stores.

Laying the first row of aerated concrete, like all other rows, starts from the corners of the foundation. Thus, it will be possible to set the level for the entire subsequent row of blocks. At the same time, it is worth knowing that the first row of blocks is always, without exception, produced only on cement-sand mixture. A control cord is pulled between the laid corner gas blocks and its evenness is leveled by using building level and fitting already installed blocks.

Now you can start laying the entire row of material until you get closed circuit. If in last point belt parameters of the whole aerated concrete do not fit in the remaining cell, then it can be cut with a hacksaw to the desired parameter and make the finishing bookmark of the first row.

Subsequent rows of gas blocks are laid on adhesive mixture according to the principle of ligation. That is, the upper blocks are displaced relative to the seam of the two lower blocks by about 8-10 cm (an example is brickwork). This method of laying is called laying with dressing. A layer of glue is applied to the block, leveled with a carriage and aerated concrete is mounted in the allotted place. At the same time, the building material is well pressed, controlling the level of masonry.
Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house video:

Important: if subsequent exterior finish the walls of the house will not be performed, then you need to take care of the attractiveness of the outer seam. To do this, the adhesive mass is simply picked up in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe seam using a special chute. And the finished and dried seams in this case will have to be additionally treated with sealant both outside and inside.

Tip: all rows of walls of the house should be laid out strictly from the corners. This will allow you to achieve perfect evenness of the masonry. The inner walls are laid out in parallel with the outer ones. For them, blocks up to 20 cm thick can be used.

Reinforcement of aerated concrete walls is prerequisite for a strong and durable construction. Reinforcement bars are placed in special strobes made in blocks. At the same time, it is worth knowing that the armored belt is necessarily laid on the first row of masonry, then on every fourth row, in places of window and door openings, as well as in places of increased loads.

Important: in the last or penultimate row of masonry in the window and doorways it is necessary to lay a special reinforced annular beam.

Now it remains to mount the concrete armored belt, which will become a support for the floor slabs. It is arranged on the outer and inner walls. On dried reinforced belt lay floor slabs that serve as the floor for the second floor (subject to construction two-story house) or attic floor. If it is planned to build a second floor, then the laying of aerated concrete blocks is carried out in the same way as above.

Important: reinforced concrete belt not as capable of retaining heat as aerated concrete blocks. Therefore, you should take care of its thermal insulation. The same armored belt is erected under the roof of the house. Later, a building system is attached to it.

Roof installation

In order for a do-it-yourself aerated concrete house to have a finished look, it remains to mount the roof. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare all the rafters, the beam for the crate, waterproofing and heat-insulating material and roofing. For aerated concrete house professionals recommend using ondulin, because it is resistant to various mechanical damage, perfectly tolerates moisture and temperature changes.

• So, first you need to install the extreme roof rafters, which are connected to the ridge beam. After that, install all the other rafters.
• A lining of draft boards is attached to the formed frame, which is covered with heat and waterproofing materials on top.
• Roofing material is mounted on top of both types of insulation.

Final works

If there is a desire or need (the house is being built in frost-resistant regions), then the walls of the building can be additionally insulated. Warming will also be relevant if the blocks were laid not on an adhesive mixture, but on a cement-sand mixture.

The constructed aerated concrete house is insulated, as a rule, with foam sheets or mineral plates. The final finishing is carried out with vapor-permeable plaster and water-based paint.

Important: if it is decided to overlay the facade of a gas block building with bricks, then in order to avoid dampening of the blocks, ventilation gaps should be left in brickwork. Inside, a house made of gas blocks is finished with special plaster with their own hands, which will not interfere with the breathing of the walls.

Thus, we build a house of aerated concrete with our own hands in stages, following all the recommendations and using the advice of experienced people.

Nuances and interesting solutions for building a house from aerated concrete video:

ridge beam in turn, they rely on the capital structures of the walls (pediments) and (additionally) on the racks. Laminated rafters do not need transverse puffs and braces, which can significantly reduce the usable volume. attic floor under the roof. With a house width of gable roof from 8 to 10 meters, either a truss structure with additional runs, struts or in the form of three-hinged trusses is used. However, the installation of layered rafters requires some experience and proper design in order to avoid the appearance of bursting loads. Most self-builders, co-workers and guest workers in Russia usually prefer the arrangement of classic spacers rafter schemes, where the top and bottom of the rafters are connected by a hinge with one degree of freedom (or rigid pinching), then the main load is transferred to the external counter of the walls of the house from aerated concrete, and, accordingly, there are bursting loads applied to the walls. In this case, it is necessary to install a rigidly fixed Mauerlat, directly connected into a single circuit along the perimeter of the building, or rigidly tied to a single contour of a supporting monolithic reinforced concrete strapping circuit. Therefore, we recommend that, when independently designing and building a house made of aerated concrete, in all cases, perform along the upper edge of aerated concrete walls (not only external, but all internal walls) a monolithic reinforced concrete strapping belt, in which T- or L-shaped anchors with M12 thread are laid along the outer contour with a step of 1 meter for rigid connection with a Mauerlat wooden bar (100 x 150 mm, or 150 x 150 mm) on which lean on the rafters.

This design will avoid problems with wall expansion, even if you or your builders assemble the truss system incorrectly, and it will create expansion loads on the walls. Below we will consider how to properly arrange a truss system that does not create bursting loads on the walls of a house made of aerated concrete.

Scheme of the device of a monolithic reinforced concrete strapping belt for attaching a Mauerlat

Before installation, Mauerlat is treated with antiseptics (XM-11, HMBB) and placed on waterproofing from bitumen-polymer rolled waterproofing material (not roofing material). Holes are drilled in the Mauerlat according to the pitch of the anchors and the Mauerlat is installed in place. A washer and nut are put on the threaded rods of the anchors, which is tightened to the stop. If the usual "tree" for Russia is used natural humidity"(that is, raw - which a self-respecting consumer would not buy in any civilized country), then access to the Maueralt mount must be provided in order to tighten this nut once a year for 5 years (the most intense shrinkage is observed in the first year), until wet wood will dry out and shrink. aerated concrete block(through waterproofing gasket). The diagram below shows the way the rafters are attached for a traditional spacer pattern, with one degree of freedom for the end of the rafter leg.

What does this mean? The rafter leg in this one is fixed with two steel plates (a steel angle and a strip connecting element) and a wire tie, which exclude rotation in the Mauerlat-rafter hinge. Sliding in this hinge is also impossible due to the rigid fastening of the rafter with a corner and flat metal, coupled with a support bar sewn from the bottom of the rafter. If the top of the rafters with such an attachment point is rigidly clamped, or the rafters rest against each other, then with this design, the bursting load will be transferred to the walls of the house.

Constructive methods of fastening maueralat on the wall of a house made of aerated concrete

It does not matter in principle for which building object the roof is being erected, since in any case it should be only aesthetically attractive, but also reliable and durable. If we are talking about a house built from aerated concrete blocks, then the roof structure should be light enough to create a minimum load on the load-bearing walls, built from rather fragile aerated concrete. What kind of roof should be, what type and design depends solely on your taste, financial capabilities and individual needs. The roof can have both a classic truss structure and be flat, covered with a bituminous coating. Let's take a closer look at the advantages and disadvantages, as well as the feasibility of using each type of roof in aerated concrete houses.

Pitched roof type. One of the best options arrangement of the roof of houses built from cellular concrete, is an pitched type roofs. Extending its edges beyond the bearing aerated concrete walls can provide more effective protection the entire structure of the house from adverse atmospheric precipitation, which is especially important for a wall structure erected from aerated concrete blocks, which are not recommended to be constantly moistened. Most of the house projects currently offered by various architectural and construction organizations have a "overhang" of the roof over the outer plane of the walls of more than a meter, which allows not only to keep the facade of the building dry, but also to use the resulting canopy as a great place to relax.

What to choose as roofing material You have to decide on such a roof yourself, after consulting with an experienced architect and counting on the financial possibilities. In this case, there is a fairly wide selection of suitable roofing materials: shingles, corrugated board, metal tiles, galvanized roofing sheet and many other modern and fairly reliable materials. I would like to note that at present the most beautiful and spectacular roofs are obtained by using metal corrugated board or metal tiles as a roofing material. These building materials can have both matte and glossy surfaces, they have a wide variety of color shades, which allows you to choose the desired color, give individuality and aesthetic appeal to your home. Both of these roofing materials have high reliability and sufficient durability. In the case of exact observance of the technology of installation work, such a roof can serve you for several decades, while not requiring seasonal maintenance. One, perhaps, the only drawback of tin roofing materials is their high "voicing" in rain and hail. This shortcoming practically devoid of bituminous tiles, which are a special fabric impregnated with bitumen and having a layer of crushed granite chips, which provides high reliability of soft roofing material from various kinds mechanical influences, especially in hot summer days. This type roofing material is much easier to fasten, since it is an order of magnitude lighter than most tin materials, and also does not require special mechanical fasteners. Laying it is done directly on a continuous crate building system using a special mastic applied to back side. In addition, in the case of education possible defects roofs, they can be easily eliminated by replacing the damaged area with a new piece (strip) of shingles.

After we have completely decided on the roof structure and roofing material, we proceed directly to the installation of the frame of the future roof. The roof is fixed to the aerated concrete wall using a Mauerlat. Mauerlat is called wooden beam, which perceives the load from the weight of the roof and evenly distributes it on the surface of the load-bearing wall. Mainly used as a Mauerlat In the case of strong gusty winds, such a loose roof structure can simply fly off the box at home. Under the Mauerlat, the last row of special U-shaped blocks is laid along the entire perimeter of the wall, in which a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is arranged. Before the curing process starts concrete mortar in U-blocks, metal studs are installed in them. For their smooth installation, you must use a fishing line. In order to quickly and evenly install the Mauerlat to the aerated concrete wall, it is necessary that the studs are in the same level and in the same vertical plane. After the concrete mortar has completely hardened and set, the wooden beam must be laid on the studs and hit with a sledgehammer. In the marked places are made through holes. After that, the Mauerlat is finally put on the studs and clogged. In some cases, a wooden beam can be put on studs and secured with nuts and washers. In addition, before installing these studs, their number and distance between them should be taken into account. This must be done so that the attachment points of the Mauerlat to the reinforced concrete belt do not coincide with the places of attachment of the rafters to the Mauerlat. The number of fastening studs should not be less than the number of rafters. The height of the fastening studs above the level of the reinforced concrete belt should be 4 cm larger than the section of the Mauerlat to enable their convenient fastening with nuts.

After the installation of the Mauerlat is completed and the truss system is assembled, it is necessary to proceed with the arrangement of the crate, fixing the roofing material and insulating the roof.

Flat roof type. An inverted flat or straight roof is one of the most unsuccessful roofing options for a private house built from aerated concrete blocks. In this case, during rain, all the walls of the house will always be wet, which will negatively affect the duration of operation and the reliability of the aerated concrete house. In addition, the roof flat shape, which has excellent waterproofing and is covered with several layers of roofing material, in terms of reliability in no way can be compared with a pitched roof made of bituminous silt And metal materials. The main advantage of this type of roof can be considered only its relatively low cost, since for flat roof no installation required wooden rafters and the arrangement of the crate, the cost of which is the "lion's" part of the total cost of a pitched roof. In addition, part Money given type roofs will save on installation work, since their volume and labor costs are much less than in the arrangement pitched roof. In addition, not when you should not forget that waterproofing and thermal insulation materials, bituminous roofing in any case, you have to buy, and quality materials will not be cheap.

In conclusion of this article, I would like to note that the pitched type of roof will allow you, if necessary, to equip the attic space for a residential attic, which is especially relevant in the construction of private "economy class" houses. It is also necessary to add that a flat type roof requires constant maintenance and regular maintenance, sealing the gaps formed in waterproofing material, cleaning it from debris and dirt, and a pitched type of roof made of metal corrugated board or metal tiles can serve you for many decades, and only occasionally require cleaning downpipes from leaves and dirt to avoid possible contamination.

Strutless rafter structures: there are three main schemes for combining the types of attachment of rafters to the ridge run and to the Mauerlat, which protect the walls of the aerated concrete house from transferring the bursting load to them from truss system. In addition, layered rafters allow you to increase the useful height of the attic floor: with this scheme of rafters, crossbars-puffs are not needed.

1 option for fastening non-expanding layered rafters. "Hard" bottom - "free" top.

Bottom of the rafter in this scheme, it is fixed rigidly (with one degree of freedom): the rafter leg rests on the Mauerlat with a notch (tooth), either with a cut with hemming of the support bar, or with the emphasis of the support bar in the Mauerlat. The option with sawing the rafters is worse, since in this case the extension of the rafter leg outside the Mauerlat is weakened. The option with filing from below the supporting (thrust) bar is better, since the cross section of the rafter leg in this case does not decrease. The support bar, the nail fastening of which will experience shear loads, is best fixed in addition to the rafters with side metal-toothed plates or wooden linings. At the Mauerlat, the rafter leg is additionally tightened with a wire loop, which is attached either to the Mauerlat, or to the anchor in the support belt, or in the anchor in the ceilings. This loop protects the roof from lifting in strong gusts of wind. The rafter is fixed with nails through steel corners on both sides, or through wooden blocks.

rafter top with this scheme, it has two degrees of freedom: rotation and shear. The rafter leg rests on the ridge run through a support bar with a horizontal support surface hemmed and fixed on both sides with metal-toothed plates. The rafters are fastened with ridge run(bar) with the help of steel brackets (curved with stings in different planes), or with the help of loop plates (sliders). Between themselves in this embodiment, the construction of the strpoil is not fastened! The rafters are located next to each other and in no case should they rest against each other. The disadvantage of this design is the disclosure ridge knot under load on the rafters. This scheme, in the form of fixing one slope, can be used in single-pitched roof structures with a span of up to 5 meters.

The operational life of the roof directly depends on a durable and well-fixed Mauerlat, which not only takes the roof load, but also contributes to its redistribution to the structure bearing walls. For mounting on aerated concrete, it is advisable to use a traditional wooden Mauerlat. It is especially important to carefully prepare all the components, including wooden bars, fasteners, reinforcing cage and good waterproofing.

Preparation of aerated concrete walls

The preparation of the base is the first step that must be taken before attaching the Mauerlat. Aerated concrete walls need to install a reinforcing belt, which will prevent the aerated concrete from being pushed through and evenly distribute the dynamic and static forces. Parameters minimum size concrete tape is 200 x 150 m., and the attachment point is inner surface walls.

The main stages of wall preparation:

• construction of formwork along the perimeter of the building with the obligatory processing of gables;

• creation of a reinforced concrete belt from u-shaped blocks;

• assembling a frame from reinforcement with a thickness of one centimeter with a protrusion of four centimeters;

• installation of threaded studs with a diameter of 14 mm, maintaining a step of a meter, which allows you to increase the rigidity of the fastening;

• filling blocks with M-200 series concrete.

It takes at least a week to harden, after which the formwork is removed and the Mauerlat can be fixed.

Mauerlat preparation

As a Mauerlat, a wooden beam or log with a section of 10 x 10 cm or 15 x 15 cm is used as a standard. Wood requires treatment with antiseptic agents that will prevent rotting processes and extend the service life. After processing, it is necessary to wrap the timber with bitumen-polymer waterproofing.

Only high-quality timber should be used, which does not have knots and cracks, and has a moisture content corresponding to building codes. If “raw” wood is used, then it is necessary to install the anchor adjusting nut, through which the structure is tightened once a year.

Proper fastening of the Mauerlat

To perform the correct and reliable fastening, T- and L-shaped anchors with washers and nuts are used. Standard thread can be M12 or M14. When arranging a structure in seismic hazard conditions, it is necessary to maintain the fastening step at the level of a meter.

Mechanical fastener type

• installation of dowels in pre-prepared holes;
• screwing in the fastener;
• strong indentation of the harpoon teeth into aerated concrete;
• surface expansion;
• reliable fixation of the structure.

This method of fastening belongs to the category of high-cost, due to the significant cost of anchors and special dowels with a harpoon.

Chemical fastener type

A less costly method of fastening the Mauerlat, which allows you to perform high-quality and reliable fastening to aerated concrete walls. Based on the use of a capsule with chemical, which penetrates through the pores of the material and firmly fixes the structure. The aerated concrete surface with this type of fastener receives additional thermal insulation and waterproofing.

Mounting methods

The final stage of work is installation and fastening roof structure using one of two methods.

First mounting method it is easy to perform and consists of several sequential actions:

• execution in the boards washed down with a depth of a third of the thickness of the board;
• a pair of galvanized nails are hammered crosswise from the side parts;
• fastening the structure with an additional nail, which is hammered from above;
• the use of fastening angles for the final fixing of the joints.

Nails used for fastening, as well as metal corners must be High Quality, which will allow you to perform a reliable fastening of the truss system.

Application for fastening the second method slightly complicates the process, however, such work can also be performed independently, subject to technology. The main advantage is that there is no need to carry out washing down in rafter legs, and all actions are performed in two stages:

• hemming from the bottom of a special support bar a meter long, which should rest securely against the Mauerlat;

• a pair of galvanized nails are driven in crosswise and complemented by a third nail, which is fixed on top of the structure.

It is advisable to use this fastener option for rafters that have a slight height. For proper fastening of the binder beam, it is necessary to use only high-quality lumber, as well as perform preliminary calculations.

Learn more about installation in the video.

Summing up

All work on the installation and fastening of the Mauerlat must be carried out on the basis of accurate calculations and using high-quality building materials, as well as fasteners. The use of timber inadequate quality or having high humidity may lead to structural failure.

To fix the Mauerlat to aerated concrete walls anchors are required special types dowels or chemical installation option. A mandatory requirement is the implementation of thermal insulation of the reinforcing belt with extruded polystyrene foam. Strict observance of all technological requirements allows you to perform a strong fastening of the Mauerlat and create the most reliable truss structure.