How to properly cover metal roofing. It is mounted like this

Installation of metal tiles belongs to the category of work that requires strict adherence to the rules. Incorrect installation can reduce the life of the material.

Necessary materials and tools

To work, you will need the following tools:

• screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• long rail;
• marker;
• roulette;
• hacksaw with fine teeth;
• electric nibblers;
• scissors for metal manual;
• circular saw with carbide teeth;
• jigsaw.

It is impossible to use abrasive wheels ("grinder") to work with metal tiles: heat burns zinc and polymer coating, which leads to active corrosion and the formation of rust smudges.

The cause of damage to the metal tile can be sawdust remaining on the surface. After completion of work, they must be removed.

When installing metal tiles, it is necessary to use galvanized EPDM self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in using a screwdriver or an electric drill with speed and reverse control.

Scratches are treated with paint of the same color as the metal tile.

Preparation for installation work

To avoid inconsistencies with the project, after installing the rafters, it is necessary to measure the roof slopes for control. By measuring the diagonals, it will be possible to check the squareness and plane of the roof.

If there are minor defects, they can be hidden with the help of additional elements along the ends.

When laying metal tiles, the slope of the roof should be more than 14 degrees.

The length of the sheets is determined depending on the length of the slope - the segment between the ridge and the cornice, to which 40 mm must be added for the overhang of the sheets from the eaves. If the length of the slope is more than 7 meters, then the sheets must be divided into two or more parts.

They must be laid with a material overlap of 150 mm. When installing long pieces, you can reduce the number of joints, but the process will become much more complicated.

According to the requirements of GOST, metal tiles should be stored in rooms without heating, which protect the material from adverse climatic factors: rain and direct sunlight.

The profiles of the factory packaging must be laid on flat areas, using 20 cm thick bars in 50 cm increments as a stand.

If the shelf life exceeds a month, then it is better to unpack the sheets of metal tiles and stack them in stacks (height - up to 70 cm). The sheets in them are shifted using a rail.

Steam, heat insulation and ventilation

Some mistakes in the construction of a metal roof can cause serious consequences. To avoid them, you need to remember some features of a metal roof:

• as a result of daily temperature fluctuations, condensation may appear on the inner surface of the sheets;
• an increase in humidity in the under-roof room is a consequence of the presence of fumes that rise from the lower parts of the building.

These factors lead to wetting of the insulation and a decrease in its thermal performance. The roof may freeze, ice may form on the roof covering, wooden rafters and the crate, rotting processes begin, mold forms, it can be damaged interior decoration building.

It is possible to avoid these undesirable consequences if:

• use a fairly thick layer of insulation;
• apply a waterproofing film or membrane to protect the insulation from the effects of condensate;
• use a vapor barrier to protect the insulation from moisture rising from the room;
• take care of the natural ventilation of the under-roof space.

Helping you choose the right one helpful tips from our detailed article.

After selecting and purchasing a metal profile, you can proceed to install it on the roof. describes the process of roofing from corrugated board. Following the instructions from the article, you can cover the roof without any problems.

Rolled waterproofing should be rolled out along the rafters onto the insulation between the ridge and the eaves in a horizontal plane with an overlap of 15 cm.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the indicator colored strip is turned outward. The film is laid with a 2 cm sag to provide a gap of 2 cm to the insulation. If these requirements are violated, the film may lose its protective properties.

Vapor barrier layer: lay the insulation with an overlap. To ensure tightness, its pieces are connected with adhesive tape.

A special gap 4 cm high, which separates the metal tile from the waterproofing, provides natural ventilation. It is created using a crate for a metal tile and guarantees the circulation of air masses between the cornice and the ridge.

When arranging filing for overhangs of metal tiles, gaps up to 5 cm in size are designed. Special holes are provided in the ridge seal.

Sheathing and other details of the roof

The crate for the metal tile is created using bars with a section of 5 x5 and boards measuring 3.2 x10 cm.

First of all, to the rafters from the ridge to the eaves along waterproofing film falling bars 5 x5 cm are nailed.

Fastening boards is carried out in compliance with specific distances:

• 30 cm - from the beginning of the first board to the middle of the second;
• between the middle parts of the remaining boards located in the neighborhood - 35 cm.

With a distance between the rafters of more than 1 meter, it is necessary to use boards of greater thickness.

When installing the crate, it is also necessary to take into account the step of the metal tile.

In some places, the crate should be solid. This applies to the space next to skylights, chimneys and in valleys. To create a continuous crate, two additional boards are nailed to the sides of the ridge bar.

It is also necessary to make the end strips higher than the ordinary lathing to a height equal to the size of the profile of the metal tile.

On a continuous crate in points internal joints attach the lower valleys. This is done using self-tapping screws. At the joints of the planks, an overlap is made, which is determined by the slope of the roof - from 10 to 15 cm.

Then, pre-cut metal sheets are laid, the top plank of the valley is placed on top.

The arrangement of junction points must be taken very carefully: it is these points that are the most vulnerable places on the roof.

During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the metal tile provides a tight connection to the walls and chimney outlets.

To this end, on roof slope the presence of an internal apron is provided, which is made on the basis of the lower abutment strips:

• The bar is applied to the walls of the pipe.
• Marked on the wall upper edge planks.
• A strobe is pierced along the intended line using a grinder.
• The strobe is cleaned of dust and washed.
• The lower junction bar is cut in place.
• The lower bar is installed and fixed with self-tapping screws.

In a similar sequence, the apron is mounted on other walls, while providing 15-centimeter overlaps that exclude the possibility of leakage.

In the bar inserted into the gate, the edge should be sealed. To direct water in the right direction (to the eaves or to the valley), it is necessary to lower part insert a tie into the inner apron - a flat sheet with sides (curved edges). Using a hammer and pliers, bend the sides.

Its installation is carried out similarly to the internal one, but at the same time, the upper edge should not be inserted into the gate, but attached to the wall.

When installing gutters downpipes holders must be installed on the bottom board of the crate so that the edge of the gutter is 2.5–3.0 cm below the edge of the metal tile sheet.

So you can reduce the load on them in the event of snow layers coming off the roof.

After that, the gutter is inserted and fixed in the holders, the eaves plank is attached to the crate. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that its lower edge overlaps the edge of the gutter.

The end of the waterproofing membrane is brought out over the eaves film so that condensate can drain from the waterproofing membrane into the gutter.

We cover the roof with a metal tile

When laying the first sheet, it is aligned along the end of the roof, then it is fixed near the ridge with a self-tapping screw. Relative to the eaves, the removal is 4 cm.

The laying of the second sheet of metal tiles during installation from right to left overlaps the first one, and in the case of installation from the left side to the right, it is placed under it.

The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws, which are located in the upper section of the overlap so that they are not screwed to the crate and can rotate together relative to the axis of the self-tapping screw, with which the first sheet is fixed near the roofing ridge.

The third sheet is mounted in the same way. All three connected sheets are aligned strictly parallel to the eaves.

In the case of joining sheets along the length, the order of laying work changes: all sheets, from the first to the fourth, are connected and aligned along the end of the roof.

The lower part of the sheet is attached to the sole of the wave using self-tapping screws, while one wave is skipped. During operation, it is necessary to take into account the wave length of the metal tile sheet.

After that, they begin to screw in the screws, which is carried out in a checkerboard pattern through the wave. To fasten the side overlap, it is necessary to screw the screws into the crest of the wave. For 1 square meter use 6-8 screws.

Installation of other metal roofing elements

The ends of the roof are closed with end strips. They are arranged with a 5-centimeter overlap, cut if necessary. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws.

At the same time, self-tapping screws 28 mm long are used for side mounting, and 80 mm for the top.

Self-tapping screws must be screwed in at a distance of 50–60 cm.

After the ventilation hole is released, a figured seal is placed on the ridge, and a round or flat ridge strip is attached to it through a wave of a metal tile sheet using 80 mm self-tapping screws. Their installation is carried out with an overlap of 10 cm.

In order to be able to move along the roof in the future, a vertical protective grille is mounted on it (at the level of the eaves).

To attach the support of the fence lattice, use galvanized screws - M8 x60. They are screwed through the cover sheet and the gasket at the wave deflection points into the support bar.

After that, the support is adjusted taking into account the slope of the metal tile sheets, fixed, and a roof fence is hung on the supports.

The sections are attached to the support with M8 x55 and M10 x35 bolts, having previously drilled 11 mm holes in the upper crossbar.

After completion of installation, the junction with the roof should be carefully sealed.

For the accessibility of antennas and pipes located on the roof, transitional bridges are mounted. Their fastening is carried out in the same way as the fastening of the roof fencing.

To adjust the inclination of the platform, the necessary holes are selected in the upper and lower brackets. Fixation is made with M8 x 20 bolts.

Brief summary: how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles

• For long-term operation of the roof, the laying of metal tiles must be carried out in accordance with the rules.
• All tools and materials should be prepared in advance.
• To avoid inconsistencies, it is necessary to make accurate calculations.
• To protect the roof of a metal tile, a layer of vapor barrier, thermal insulation and ventilation is required.
• Before laying the sheets, it is necessary to arrange the crate.
• When installing the crate, timber and boards of certain sizes are used, the pitch of the sheets is also taken into account.
• In the places where the chimneys exit to the roof, the installation of an internal apron is provided.
• Installation of sheets is carried out in a certain order, self-tapping screws are used to secure them.
• After laying the sheets of metal, proceed to the installation of the remaining elements.

Video instruction for the installation of metal tiles:

The choice of roofing material is not an easy task. It is necessary that the roof be reliable, beautiful, durable, and even, preferably, inexpensive. All these requests are answered by a roof made of metal. It must be added to the pluses, not the most complex installation which even a person without experience can handle with their own hands roofing works.

Metal roofing is beautiful, reliable, durable and inexpensive

Types of metal tiles

The metal tile is molded from sheet metal with a thickness of 0.35-0.7 mm, on which protective and decorative compositions are applied. It turns out a multi-layer cake. The basis of this building material- most often steel, but there are options from copper and aluminum. Since aluminum and copper are much more expensive than steel, products made from them have high price. For this reason, copper or aluminum metal tiles are almost never found, but if desired, they can be delivered to order.

There are on sale both imported and domestic metal tiles. The European version comes strictly from steel 0.5 mm thick - this is spelled out in the standard. In our GOST, from 0.45 to 0.5 mm is allowed.

Except different materials bases, applied different protective covering. First of all, there are two types of steel protection against oxidation - zinc and aluminum-zinc. The second option appeared not so long ago, but it is he who provides better protection, although such processing costs a little more.

More different formulations eat for finish coat, which, along with weather protection, gives the material one color or another.

Types of protective and decorative external coatings

The outer covering of the metal tile performs two functions at the same time. It protects the base metal from corrosion, and gives the material attractive appearance. There are the following types of this coverage:

1. The most common metal roofing has a glossy polyester (PE) coating - about 70% of the total number of roofs are covered with this type of material. All because he has average price and good features. Layer thickness 25-30 microns, service life 5-10 years. This coating is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and corrosion, but is easily damaged mechanically - scratches appear even when a large amount of snow comes off. Therefore, polyester metal tiles are not recommended for use in regions with heavy snowfalls. In other areas, to prevent massive snowfall, it is desirable to install a snow retention system. If you cover the roof with such material, you must be careful during installation.

   

2. Matte polyester (MPE) is obtained by adding Teflon. As a result, the film is more durable - the service life is 10-15 years, it can also be used in snowy regions. This composition is applied with a thickness of at least 35 microns. The disadvantage of tile coated with matte polyester is a smaller range of colors (about 20 shades compared to 40 glossy).

   

3. Plastisol (PVC) is a PVC-based compound. Has a beautiful structural surface, is applied in a layer of 200 microns, due to which the coating is resistant to damage. The disadvantage is low resistance to ultraviolet radiation, which significantly narrows the range of use. In addition, in some countries, due to the presence of polyvinyl chloride, this coating is prohibited.

   

4. Pural is a coating based on polyurethane with additives of polymers. Available in glossy (PUR) and matte (MatPUR) versions. Layer thickness - 50 microns, service life - up to 30 years. This is one of the best options: resistant to mechanical damage (worse than palstisol, but better than everyone else), tolerates ultraviolet and aggressive environments well, can be used for roofing on the sea coast.

   

   Pural is one of the most durable coatings

5. Polydifluoride (PVF or PVDF) is a composition based on polyvinyl fluoride with the addition of acrylic (20%). The main advantage is the high elasticity of the coating, due to which, with a small thickness (30 microns), the film is very resistant to mechanical damage. Other advantages are wide color gamut, fade resistance, long term service - up to 30 years. The disadvantage is the highest price.

   

   The most expensive and durable coating is polydifluoride

It is clear that when building a house you do not want to spend extra money. Probably for this reason, most developers choose the most cheap option- metal roofing with polyester coating. But this is not the best solution. Let's guess. The service life of a metal tile with polyester is no more than 5-10 years, average cost- with a metal thickness of 0.45 mm - about 260 rubles / m 2, with a steel thickness of 0.5 mm - 440 rubles / m 2. Even roofing material will last 10 years, the price of a square for a year will be 26 rubles and 44 rubles. Now let's take a very a good option- covered with pural. With a metal thickness of 0.5 mm, the cost is from 510 rubles / m 2 to 635 rubles / m 2 (depending on the manufacturer). Service life - 30 years. For a year of service, this will be 12-17 rubles / m 2. The difference is obvious. And this is without taking into account the work to cover the roof, and this is also time and money.

Profile views

When laying a metal tile, its geometric dimensions and wave parameters are important - a crate is calculated and mounted under them. Also, the wave height determines the degree of rigidity of the sheet - at high wind loads, a material with a high wave (more than 50 mm) is needed - the most rigid, under normal conditions, a metal tile with a small wave (less than 50 mm) is suitable.

The waveform is symmetrical and asymmetrical, more rounded or with straight lines. There are quite a large number of different profiles. The table shows the geometric dimensions (useful width of a metal tile sheet, overlap, wave parameters), which will be useful when calculating the quantity.

Metal roofing in 70% of cases is made from the Monterrey profile. It has a rounded, slightly asymmetrical waveform. There are 7 subspecies with different parameters waves.

The next most popular profile is Cascade. About 15% of metal roofs are made of it. It is formed by straight lines, has a clear geometry. It looks very interesting on the roofs of complex shapes with large quantity broken lines.

This profile is used more in regions with average wind and snow loads - the wave height is small, the loads can withstand average.

About 10% of the market is occupied by Andalusia metal tiles. More than anyone else, it looks like a classic semicircular tile. The profile is symmetrical, with pronounced drops.

The profile is designed so that the joint is located on the wall of the wave, it is practically invisible. The impression of a monolithic roofing is created.

Sheet dimensions and wave parameters of the Andalusia metal tile

If we talk about color, then depending on the type of coating, shades are usually from 20 to 40 pieces. Choose the one that suits you more. The service life or other characteristics do not depend on the color, although there is an opinion that dark colors burn out faster. In fact, the rate of fading depends on the quality of the coating and the pigment, but not on the color.

Calculation of the amount of metal tiles

To calculate the required number of sheets of material, you first need to determine the type of profile and the manufacturer of the metal tile - you will need the exact dimensions of the material itself, and each profile has its own. Then you need to make accurate measurements of the slopes - length, height, if any, you need to measure all the protrusions or others decorative elements Which will need to be sheathed with roofing material. If the roof complex shape, it is better to draw her plan, put down all the dimensions and then sit down for the calculations.

Number of rows

It is best to look for metal tiles not in stores or markets. It is advisable to go directly to the manufacturer. It's not just the price - it may not differ very much, but the fact that many workshops / factories offer to cut sheets of the required dimensions. Minimum Height sheet 0.7 m, maximum - 8 m. That is, you can order the required number of sheets covering the roof slope from the ridge to the overhang (including the ledge).

This option is good because the metal roof will not have horizontal joints, which means there will be less chance of a leak. The second plus is the minimum amount of waste and a smaller amount of the material itself (due to the absence of horizontal overlaps, several square meters are saved). Cons - difficulties with delivery, lifting long sheets up, uncomfortable styling.

When using sheets standard sizes, the height of the roof slope is divided by usable length sheet. The resulting figure is always rounded up. The useful length is obtained after the horizontal overlap is subtracted from the total length - from 100 to 200 mm. The flatter the slope, the greater the overlap of the sheets is necessary so that precipitation cannot enter the under-roof space. On roofs with a slope of up to 12°, one sheet overlaps the other by at least 200 mm, with a slope of 12° to 30°, the overlap is 150-200 mm, more than 30° - 100-150 mm. The specified amount of overlap is subtracted from the total length of the sheet, this will be the “useful length”.

An example of calculating the number of rows of metal tiles on the roof. Let the length of the slope be 4.5 m, the useful length of the sheet is 2.3 m. Divide 4.5 by 2.3, we get 1.95, round to an integer - we get 2 rows. In this case, only a small part of one sheet will go to waste, but there are times when more than half is cut off. This is very unprofitable, since you can’t use this piece anywhere else.

Number of sheets in a row

Take the length of the slope and divide by the useful width of the sheet. This parameter is indicated in the technical specifications for the metal tile. Most often it is 110 cm (1.1 m). The resulting number is rounded up, we get the number of sheets in a row.

An example of the calculation of sheets of metal tiles in a row. Let the length of the overhang be 8 m, the useful width of the sheet is 1.1 m. When dividing, we get 7.27 pieces, but we round up to a larger integer and get 8 pieces in one row. Moreover, more than 2/3 of one sheet will go to waste.

Features of hip roofs

At hip roofs slopes have a triangular or trapezoidal shape. Here it is necessary to select the length of the sheet - to minimize the amount of waste.

The height is chosen so that no more than half goes to waste. It is quite difficult to do this manually, and still there is a solid error - there will be 20-25% more waste than when calculating using programs. They are usually available from vendors and manufacturers. It is better to provide them with an accurate calculation, and at home to pre-measure the parameters of the roof (or call a measurer), and then try to choose the dimensions yourself. Then it will be possible to compare the amount of material needed, calculated by you and proposed.

Determination of the number of additional elements

Roofing from metal tiles requires a large number of different additional elements(dobors), which make out the ridge, the edge of the overhang, the sides of the slope, the passage of the pipe, the valley (the junction of two adjacent roof slopes). Downtime gable roof ridge elements and plugs, cornice and gable trims will be needed. That's all.

What are the additional elements for a roof made of metal and why are they needed

Despite the wide variety of extensions, they are all considered the same. Take the length of the surface on which you want to mount and divide by the useful length of the element. It is usually standard and is 1.9 m (total length 2 m). The result is rounded up.

What and how to mount

The metal tile is fixed with special self-tapping screws with rubber washers. As well as the main material, they are made of galvanized steel, and on top they are painted in a tone with its coating. During installation, the self-tapping screw must be screwed in strictly perpendicular to the roof surface, its inclination is not allowed.

When fixing a metal tile, it is also necessary to monitor how tightly the fasteners adhere to the surface. You can’t tighten it too much, bending the metal, but you can’t allow a loose fit either - the connection will not be airtight.

Lathing under the metal tile

A metal tile is a rather rigid material, therefore a sparse crate is made under it, which consists of planks that are located along the roof overhang.

What material

If a metal roof has simple design, an inch edged board (24-25 mm thick) 100 mm wide goes to the crate. On a roof of complex shape or in regions with large snow loads, it is better to use a board of 32 mm thickness or a beam of 50-50 mm. The beam is also used with a large distance between the rafters (more than 80 cm).

Lathing step

Installation of metal tiles on the roof has one important feature. There is the strongest place in the profile - under the step of the wave in the hollow. This is where you need to screw the screw. The crate must be made so that the middle of the bar is just under this place. This is precisely what causes difficulties: profiles have different sizes, therefore, each of them requires its own installation step for the lathing slats. This value can be determined by measuring the already existing material, but, usually, this parameter is indicated in the instructions for the metal tile.

There are several important points lathing devices for metal tiles. Please note that the first plank along the overhang is thicker than all the others - the step height for this profile is added to the selected plank thickness. In addition, this plank is made wider than all the others - a dropper will be attached to it, which closes the cut, protecting the wood from precipitation.

Also note that the second bar is not stuffed with a standard, but with a shortened step, otherwise you will not get further into the wave. The step is also different when installing the last bar near the ridge - it is obtained in fact, as well as the height of the bar. We remind you that there should be sufficiently large gaps in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge - and the crate and roofing material should not be joined. This is necessary for proper ventilation of the attic.

Installation procedure and features

Before you cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for working with the material:

• First of all, you need to take care of proper storage - in ventilated stacks, arranged in bars.
• When cutting, do not use an angle grinder (grinder), but cut only with a jigsaw or scissors for metal. The grinder overheats the metal, due to which the zinc evaporates, in the places of the cut the material will begin to rust.
• Start laying the sheets from the lower right corner (the installation diagram of the metal tiles is in the photo below).
• When mounting, wear soft, well-fitting shoes, step only in the lower part of the wave.

Next, we will talk about the device. Metal roofing comes in two versions: with a cold or insulated attic. Depending on the selected type, the order of work changes - when arranging warm attic, two more layers are added - a heater and a vapor barrier membrane from the side of the room.

Cold metal roofing

This type of roof is suitable if the attic is planned to be non-residential. Then all the insulation is concentrated in the ceiling, and the function of the roof is only to protect from rain and wind. The order of work is as follows:

Warm roof

When installing an insulated roof made of metal tiles in roofing cake more is added thermal insulation material, which is attached between the rafters, and vapor barrier film, which is stuffed on the rafters from the side of the attic. Further, the entire installation process is similar.

How to attach sheets

When we cover the roof with a metal tile, we must correctly position the screws. There are several rules to follow:

• Self-tapping screws are installed in the lower part of the wave, 2 cm below the step.
• The bottom row, along the overhang, is attached to each wave. Fasteners are also installed in places of horizontal and vertical joints.
• The waves between the horizontal joints are fastened through one in a checkerboard pattern.

These rules are clearly shown in the diagram. In a graphic image, some things are easier to understand.

Metal tile, as a roofing material, has long earned the popularity of developers, thanks to a number of its advantages. It is durable, practical, resistant to adverse external factors, can be used to cover buildings without regional restrictions. Such a cladding is light in weight, which means that it does not require the construction of a reinforced truss system, a solid foundation and walls.

The material is considered relatively inexpensive if we compare its cost, for example, with natural tiles or copper roofing. At the same time, roofs under metal tiles look quite aesthetically pleasing, and different shape metal profile, a wide choice of textures and colors makes it possible to use this material to cover various objects.

The metal tile can be used on all types most commonly used in private housing construction. pitched roofs with an inclination angle of more than 14°. Laying the material is not difficult, but it has its own characteristics. So, information on how to cover the roof with metal tiles may be of interest to those who want to do the installation work on their own.

Proper arrangement of the base under the metal tile

Roofing flooring can be carried out both on new buildings and on old buildings, the roof of which needs to be updated. During operation rafter system may slightly lose the correctness of geometric shapes or in some places become unusable.

Therefore, it must be checked for distortions and other defects that should be immediately eliminated. Control measurement carried out along the diagonals of the slopes, they should be the same. Before the start of roofing work, all necessary communications are removed through the roof, chimneys are installed, and ventilation is equipped.

Covering the roof with metal tiles is impossible without the arrangement of a waterproofing layer, which allows you to remove the condensate that inevitably appears on the lower edge of the sheets, and remove excess moisture outside the roof.

mount protective film they start from the cornice, leaving a free edge of about 25 mm hanging from it. The following layers are superimposed on the previous ones with an overlap of 100 - 150 mm. Waterproofing is carried out continuously over the entire plane of the slopes.

A slight sagging of the material between the rafters (up to 20 mm) is acceptable. The film is fixed with galvanized staples or nails on the outside of the rafter legs.

The next stage is the device of the crate. For metal tiles, it is made using timber and boards. The first ones are selected with a dimension of 50 by 50 mm, the second - by 30 - by 100 mm. Previously, the elements are treated with a good antiseptic.

It is mounted like this:

1. First by rafter legs from the eaves to the ridge of the roof, vertical strips of the counter-lattice are nailed. For this, a beam is used.
2. Next, boards are nailed to it, placing them strictly horizontally. The step between them is up to 450 mm and depends on the type of metal profile used. The exception is the distance from the first to the second bar, which is 50 mm less.
3. The first board differs in its size. It should be 10 - 15 mm thicker than all the others in order to compensate for the difference that occurs in the corrugated material between the edge of the first sheet and all subsequent support points.
4. The end plank is nailed above the boards of the ordinary lathing by an amount equal to the thickness of the roofing material used. The roof overhang closes flush with the façade board.

If a drain is installed, brackets for gutters are fixed on the bottom board of the batten. A cornice strip is screwed on top, so that it overlaps the wall of the gutter closest to the facade. The end of the waterproofing membrane is led into the drain, placing it along the eaves. Then it remains only to cover the roof with a metal tile.

In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe chimney, valleys, roof windows, the crate is made continuous. Also in these places strengthen required elements- aprons.

Installation of metal tiles on the roof

How to cover the roof with metal tiles? First, the roofing material must be properly prepared and, if necessary, cut in accordance with the dimensions of the slopes. If a metal tile purchased at a hardware store has a protective film layer, it must be removed during installation. Cutting sheets is carried out only with scissors for metal and nothing more. Both manual and electric tools can be used. Having the right dimensions you can start installation.

On rectangular slopes, sheets are laid from the end. The outflow of material over the edge is 40 mm. If the length of the roof does not exceed 6-7 m, installation is carried out in one sheet from the ridge to the eaves.

With a longer slope, the parts are overlapped, the upper element is placed on the lower one with an overlap of 150 mm. On tent-type roofs, the fastening of sheets starts from the highest point in the center and continues further in both directions. The longitudinal connection of the parts of the roof occurs in one wave.

Before the final fixing of the sheets to the crate, the elements are first not rigidly joined to each other and aligned along the cornice. Roofing parts are fixed with self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets under the transverse wave and in its lower part with a longitudinal connection.

When the installation of the sheets is completed, closing elements are installed on the ends and the ridge. End strips are fixed on both sides, on the roof and from the pediment. The distance between the fasteners is 0.5 - 0.6 m. If it is necessary to connect the planks, the overlap is 50 mm. Installation is carried out from the eaves to the ridge.

The planks of the valleys are fastened with self-tapping screws according to the material. A seal with open ventilation gaps is pre-installed on the ridge. Then the closing piece is screwed on. The overlap between the planks is maintained at 100 mm. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws 80 mm.

A metal roof is the safety and durability that every person needs so much. Roofing made of metal profiles does not leak, does not rust and retains an attractive appearance for many years without requiring frequent and complex repairs. Considering the relative cheapness of this material, many owners of houses under construction prefer to save on installation services and think about how to cover the roof with metal tiles with their own hands, without resorting to the help of firms and construction teams. If you follow the technology and instructions, self-assembly is not difficult.

In this article

General information, benefits and features

The metal profile gained its popularity due to the qualities that give it an advantage over other familiar materials. The main advantages of the profile are:

• low weight of the structure, which reduces the load on the foundation;
• extreme strength, durability;
• ease of installation and further operation;
• ease of transportation;
• visual appeal and diversity colors, a large number of forms and design solutions;
• no need for additional coloring.

Another advantage of metal tiles is the low price of the material. If you know how much it costs to cover the roof with a metal tile, resorting to the help of specialized companies, then in the case self-assembly in terms of one square meter, this figure will be significantly reduced.

What you need to know before starting installation work?

It should be remembered that the metal tile, as a material, is very flexible, subject to deformations with careless handling. Despite the strength and ability to resist atmospheric influences, metal sheets easily bend, becoming unsuitable for further use. To keep the sheets in good condition, they should be handled with care when transporting, unloading, mounting or storing.

1. Transportation of sheets of metal is carried out using truck specially designed for this purpose. Or having a body length not less than or equal to the length of the sheet. To guarantee the sheets should be overlaid with cushioning material, especially if there are doubts about the quality pavement. This will allow you to be sure of the quality of delivery. Upon arrival at the installation site, the metal tile should be checked for possible damage and deformation again.
2. Unloading is carried out using a crane with soft slings or manually. In the latter case, at least 3-4 people should take part in unloading, who hold the sheet on both sides strictly in vertical position preventing it from bending. Sheets should be carried with great care, holding from above and below. It is better to do this in tight gloves, as there is a danger of cutting yourself on sharp edges.
3. It is not worth storing an unpacked metal tile for more than a month and a half: under the pressure of the upper ones, the lower sheets can be deformed. If necessary long-term storage the packaging must be removed and the profiles repositioned wooden blocks at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other. Immediately before covering the roof with metal tiles, it is necessary to additionally check the profiles for possible damage.

To work, you will need certain tools and a certain amount of skills in the construction business. You should prepare a tape measure and a pencil, a screwdriver and screws, nails and a hammer, wooden planks, beams, sticky tape and materials for thermal and waterproofing. A construction stapler, a hacksaw for wood and a grinder with a special disc designed for cutting metal tiles may also come in handy. It is categorically impossible to cut it by any means leading to heating of the surface: the profiles are covered with anti-corrosion paint, which is destroyed during the heating process and can provoke rapid corrosion of the entire surface.

Roof preparation

In order not to be mistaken with the amount of material in the process of acquiring metal tiles, you need to make the right calculation before covering the roof. When measuring the height and width of the roof slope, one should take into account the overlap of each sheet on the other in the amount of 15 cm. It should also be taken into account that the length of the flooring should exceed the length of the rafters by 4-5 cm, forming a small canopy, which provides additional ventilation of the room.

Before you cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, you need to make sure that the roof slope has an even rectangular shape. To do this, on both sides, the diagonals of the slope are measured from bottom corner to the opposite top. In the case when there is a difference in the length of the sides, it is eliminated with the help of a crate. Step-by-step instruction installation of the crate will be given below. If it is not possible to eliminate the difference in length, you will have to directly adjust the shape of the metal profile sheets.

From correct installation battens will depend on the service life of the roof, and how well the roof can withstand gusts of wind and other natural loads. Therefore, the installation of rafters and battens should be given special attention.

1. Rafter bars must have a cross section of at least 150 by 50 mm.
2. The distance between the rafters is set in accordance with the width of the metal sheet - within 60 - 90 cm.
3. The dimensions of the boards intended for the crate are selected within 100x25x50 mm.
4. Additional parts provided for by the roof structure - a ridge, a cornice overhang, parts adjacent to the attic windows and a chimney. They must be installed at the stage of installation of the crate before covering the roof with metal tiles.

Hydro and thermal insulation

Waterproofing and attic ventilation - important conditions that need to be given maximum attention when installing the roof. Many of those who build their own house often use the attic space as a living space. In this case, protection from the cold is also necessary - roof insulation (insulation material is laid under the rafters). This information is essential part any guide on how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles, because timely measures taken to protect the roof prevent such unpleasant consequences as wood rotting, condensation and the spread of fungus. As a protective material, it is preferable to use waterproofing membrane in rolls, which is laid on the rafters with an overlap of at least 15 cm and fastened with a stapler. The membrane is laid with the absorbent side down to prevent condensation. The order of laying the covering film: from the bottom up, moving from the cornice strip to the roof ridge.

There are several ways to arrange ventilation:

1. ventilation holes provided near the roof ridge;
2. ventilation in the roof lining;
3. ventilation gaps between the layers of metal tiles and the waterproofing membrane.

After all are done preparatory work, measurements have been made, a crate and a waterproofing system have been installed, you can proceed with the installation of the roof. Knowing how to properly cover a roof with a metal tile, or being guided by instructions, anyone with a minimum of building experience will install a roof without problems.

Sheets are attached to the crate with self-tapping screws and screws in strict sequence. Wherein gable roof it is necessary to cover, starting from the end, and the tent-shaped roof from the top of the frame. Having completed the installation of the cornice strip, the first few sheets are fixed with one screw and aligned with the cornice. Overlapped sheets must be fully joined to one another. The sheets are connected to each other and to the crate with self-tapping screws, the total number of which is taken at the rate of 6-7 pieces per 1 sq. m.

Roof covering with metal tiles is carried out in order from bottom to top. A ridge strip is installed on the roof ridge, and end strips are attached to the sheet with self-tapping screws at the ends. The slats play the role of wind protection, preventing the roof from being torn off during gusts. Adjacent strips in places where the chimney pipe and skylights, mounted prior to installation metal profiles tiles and sealed to prevent the penetration of moisture and cold.

Having done all the work correctly, paying attention to the features of the shape of the roof and other nuances, adhering to the installation sequence, you will achieve good results, and the metal roof will serve long years without requiring any special care, no repair.

Today, without exaggeration, metal roofing can be called one of the most popular materials to cover the roof. Over the years of application, this material has proven itself only with positive side. It is reliable and versatile, and, due to its reasonable cost, is available to any category of developers.

The metal tile has acceptable technical characteristics:

Therefore, with certain skills, beginners in the construction business can also build a roof from a metal tile with their own hands.

Preparatory work

Any roof with a slope of more than fourteen degrees can be covered with a metal tile. To calculate the required number of sheets required to cover the roof, the width and length of the slopes are measured. Before doing this, make sure that the slope is rectangular. For this measure its diagonals, which must match. Protrusions or distortions are eliminated, and if this is not possible, then this is taken into account during the installation of the roof.

When calculating the coating material for a roof made of metal, the length of the cornice overhang and the vertical overlap of each row of sheets (about fifteen centimeters) are taken into account. Eaves overhang is approximately five centimeters, further providing additional ventilation of the room and protection from moisture.

Materials and tools

Work materials to be purchased:

• metal tile;
• slats;
• wood for eaves and rafters;
• fasteners.

When installing a metal roof, you will need the following tools:

• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• metal scissors;
• marker;
• roulette;
• Circular Saw;
• jigsaw;
• brush.

It should be noted that cutting sheets of metal with a grinder with an abrasive wheel is undesirable. The factory coating may be damaged and corrosion may occur.

The roof should consist of the following elements:

• Basic structure;
• crate;
• waterproofing layer;
• roof covering.

Bearing building structure

The roof frame must be strong to withstand significant amounts of snow and any gusts of wind. Therefore, when building a roof with your own hands, you need to know some rules.

1. The wood of building beams should have a moisture content of no more than twenty-two percent.
2. Installed roof beams on the roof after 60-90 centimeters. At greater distance between them, the roof can sag.
3. Before use wood needs to be treated special antiseptic solution.

To give rigidity to the structure, the frontal board is nailed to the ends of the beams. In the future, a bar is attached to the wall flush with the frontal board and then a crate is installed between them from the transverse slats. This is necessary for filing the overhang.

To sheathe the roof sheathing, use siding or plastic. Before starting work, hooks should be installed. Attach to them there will be gutters. They are attached to the cornice board or rafter beams.

The truss structure must provide required slope, rectangular roof planes, horizontal line skate.

Waterproofing and ventilation

To prevent rotting wooden structure and metal corrosion, adequate waterproofing and ventilation of the roof should be taken care of. If the attic will be used as a living space, then it is worth thinking about the thermal insulation of the roof.

For waterproofing it is desirable to use a special material, for example, a rolled waterproofing membrane. Waterproofing is laid on the rafters. In order to prevent condensation from forming under the metal tile, it is laid to the attic with the absorbent side.

The easiest way to fix the waterproofing is with a construction stapler with galvanized staples. The film is laid with an overlap, moving up to the ridge. The overlap must be at least fifteen centimeters.

Ventilated spaces under the roof can be done in several ways:

• provide ventilation passages between the metal tile and waterproofing;
• make ventilation holes near the roof ridge and dormer windows;
• make ventilation holes in the roof lining.

Lathing for laying metal tiles

This is a pretty simple step. Beams are taken and fastened over the waterproofing to the rafters along the slope. Further, crate boards are horizontally attached to them. The width of the boards should be ten centimeters, and the thickness - three centimeters. The first board should be thicker, about one and a half centimeters, and it will be attached at the end of the slope (the edge of the sheet is installed on it). The distance between the boards is from thirty-five to forty-five centimeters. It depends on the transverse profile of the tile. Between the first two boards, the step size is five centimeters smaller than between the other purlins.

Before installation work wooden elements should be treated with antiseptic agents.

In order for the fastening of the ridge bar to be reliable, on both sides of the roof, additional bars are installed on top of the rafters.

The eaves plank is fastened through thirty centimeters with an overlap of ten to twelve centimeters with the help of self-tapping screws to the frontal board. This is done in order to eaves plank withstood strong winds.

At the junctions of two slopes, internal corners (valleys) are installed. Especially for them arrange a crate of boards, which must be protected by additional waterproofing. The valley is positioned so that the eaves plank is located below. Internal corners fasten with self-tapping screws through thirty centimeters.

The gaps around the chimney of the roof are closed with waterproofing. To do this, it is brought to the pipe and glued with special tape. The pipe should make small holes about one and a half centimeters deep. In these strobes, after laying the tiles, adjoining planks will be installed. Joints are sealed with sealant.

How to cover a roof with a metal tile

Before starting work on closing the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, you should decide on the place to start its installation.

On the hipped roof laying begins at the highest point of the slope and gradually moves in both directions.

A gable roof is covered with metal tiles starting from one of the ends.

The edge of the metal tile with a protrusion of about four centimeters is set along the cornice, in relation to the cornice line, and the edge of the metal tile is fixed. The sheet is fixed with screws.

Best for fasteners self-tapping screws made of white metal with an octagonal key head. They must also be equipped with a sealing washer. Fasteners should be carried out strictly perpendicular, directly into the bend of the sheet under the transverse wave.

The longitudinal strips of the metal tile are fixed in one wave increments with self-tapping screws 4.5x19 mm.

The end plate is installed over the profile wave as evenly as possible. It is attached to the roof sheathing with self-tapping screws. The fastening step is from twenty-five to thirty centimeters.

First of all, several sheets are fixed near the ridge. The sheets are aligned along the cornice and fixed in length. The overlap of the sheets is fastened with one self-tapping screw on top of the wave under the transverse fold. Dock metal tiles should be carefully so as not to damage the ends.

If the roof is irregular in shape, then it will be necessary to cut several sheets before starting work. This is done using a jigsaw or a circular saw. The ends of the metal tile, which were trimmed, covered with kuzbasslak or paint. Such sheets are installed "flush". The cutting line starts under another sheet.

After all sheets of metal tiles are laid and attached, you can proceed to the last stage of work. Skate gable roof it is covered with special ridge elements, which are fixed through each wave with self-tapping screws.

A sealing material can be placed under the ridge, which is fixed to the crate with nails or self-tapping screws. Over the seal ridge rail being laid, to which the ridge elements are fixed.

In places where a metal roof is adjacent to vertical surfaces (walls, pipes), joint strips are laid. Under them, you may need to install wooden blocks.

If you follow all the instructions and advice exactly, and use necessary materials and tools, then a do-it-yourself metal roof will be done correctly.