DIY acrylic bath screen. Steps for making a bath screen

August 25, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high tech, computer technology, programming.

Today I will tell you how to make a protective screen under the bath with your own hands. The manufacture of such a design is not particularly difficult even for an inexperienced craftsman, so I see no reason to involve professionals in the work and pay them money for this.

Choosing the right design

Let's start by deciding what to make a screen for masking the space under the bathroom. Personally, in my practice I came across various designs.

The most common were the following:

• MDF screen for a bathtub - a construction made of glued wood-fiber sheets, which, however, do not tolerate operation very well in humid air;
• plastic screen for the bathroom - and we are talking about both ordinary polymer lamellas, and various sheet materials(plexiglass, polycarbonate and so on);
• construction from mineral blocks - I did laying under the bathroom from foam blocks, bricks and even cinder blocks (I do not recommend this option, especially for beginners, because of the high labor intensity of the work);
• a steel screen - a very unusual design, which I installed only because the owner found a sheet of steel that was suitable in size (if you decide to make such a screen, I advise you to choose aluminum, which is lighter, looks better, and is protected from corrosion);
• drywall screen - universal design both in terms of shape (it is possible to bend the plasterboard in any plane), and in terms of design (it is possible to veneer the plasterboard with any material - tiles, wallpaper, plaster, paint).

As you probably guessed, I prefer to make a tiled screen under the bathroom - the pros and cons of this design are presented in the table below.

Advantages	disadvantages
Strength. Plasterboard construction, installed on a solid frame and protected by tiles, is able to withstand significant external mechanical stress without changing its appearance.	Low moisture resistance. Plain drywall not intended for use in humid air. Therefore, only green-colored material should be used for work.
Light weight. The screen under the bath will not exert a significant load on structural elements building. Although, in fairness it should be noted that plastic panels weigh even less.	Difficult access to communications. After the installation of the screen is completed, access to the plumbing and sewer pipes under the bathroom will not be possible. Therefore, you should take care of the installation in advance the right amount inspection doors of a suitable size.
Registration. Drywall is tiled, which is most organically combined with tiles glued to the walls or floor. Moreover, the design can be varied decorative elements, friezes and so on.	High price. Here we are talking more about ceramic tiles, which will be pasted over drywall. As for the design itself (frame plus plasterboard), it will cost you very inexpensively.
Ease of care. ceramic surface, due to its dense structure, does not absorb dirt. Possible contamination can be easily cleaned with a sponge and household detergents.	The complexity of self-assembly. As in the previous case, laying tiles will cause the greatest difficulty. And the screen itself can be constructed without any problems, especially if you follow the instructions below.
Long service life. If properly designed, the screen will last as long as the rest of the decorative trim bathroom. That is, it will have to be dismantled only during the next repair.

I think I convinced you that the best choice- This is a plasterboard screen, tiled. I will make a design of complex shape with a ledge at the bottom, which makes it possible to comfortably place the legs when washing the bath and washing.

Necessary tools and materials

I will briefly list the main materials that will be needed in the work:

1. Plasterboard sheets. Depending on the size of the bath and its location, you will need one or two standard sheets (most often one is more than enough). Once again, I remind you that you need to buy only moisture resistant drywall(green), which can be used in high humidity conditions.

1. Profiles for drywall. You will need guides (UD) and load-bearing (CD) elements. Additional accessories ("pawns" and "crabs") are not needed. We will do everything with the help of ordinary small self-tapping screws (bugs).
2. Sanitary sealant. With its help, strange as it may sound, I will mount the guide profiles on the surface of the floor and walls (in my case they are already tiled).
3. Primer for drywall. She primed the surface of the GKL before gluing tiles on them.
4. Tile. Its purpose is clear decoration screen. It is, of course, better to choose it to match the color of the walls or floor. But it all depends on your preferences, so I won’t stop for a long time.
5. Glue for tiles. Special dry composition based on cement (or ready-made dispersion mixture) for gluing tiles.

This is the main one, but in the course of the presentation I will mention other tools with materials.

Mounting technology

Well, now I’ll tell you how to make a tiled screen from GKL yourself. The whole process is divided by me into several successive stages, shown in the diagram below.

I will describe each of them in as much detail as possible.

Stage 1 - Preparation

It is always necessary to start work with the preparation of the premises. In my case, I acted as follows:

1. Installed the tub in the right place. The matter, it would seem, is simple, but there are a few small points that I would like to draw your attention to:

• Before installation, I advise you to insulate steel bath polyurethane foam. It will not only increase the cooling time of the water, but also reduce the noise emitted by the bath bowl during filling with water. I described the process of warming the bath in one of the articles on this blog.
• Installation and leveling of the bathtub is preferably carried out using special threaded legs, which are either included in the kit or purchased separately. This way you can achieve maximum stability of the product.
• Under the bottom of the bath, you can put a few bricks, fixing them with polyurethane foam. This will add strength to the structure.
• After installing the plumbing fixture, it is necessary to connect the drain, overflow and faucets. And then check the operability of the system and the absence of leaks at the joints.

1. He laid tiles on the walls and floor of the bathroom. Instructions for laying tiles on walls (including drywall) are described in a separate material. But here I would also like to make a few points:
   • The tile at the junction of the bath to the wall should hang over the plumbing fixture. Its edge should be cut as close as possible to the surface of the bath and processed with a "turtle" to form a kind of chamfer.

• On the floor and walls under the bathroom, the tiles should be positioned so that they go 10-15 cm under the plumbing fixture. That is, it is desirable that the screen is installed not just on the building envelope, but on the tile. So your design will have the most harmonious look.

That's all I wanted to say about preparation. Now you can move on to the next stage of work.

Stage 2 - Markup

In the manufacture of the design in question, the dimensions of the screen for the bath are very important. Moreover, in my case, it will have a complex shape with a recess at the bottom for a comfortable position of the legs.

So I decided to dedicate an entire section to the issue of markup. Well, let's get started:

1. I cut out the guide profile for the floor. Usually this is one solid piece, but in my case there are some nuances:
   • The profile will consist of three parts, which are separated by bath legs. This is done in order to leave as much legroom as possible. It turns out that the recess will be about 7 cm deep, which is quite enough.

• The floor profile (like other galvanized parts) is cut with ordinary metal scissors according to pre-made marks.

1. I carry out markings on the walls and floor for further correct placement profiles. This is done as follows:
   • From top edge bathtubs with the help of a water level along the walls are carried out strictly vertical lines that connect the end of the plumbing fixture and the floor.

• After that, the marks near the walls are connected to each other by a line. You can do this with a rule. To check, you can apply a level in the middle of the bath. When the tool is placed vertically, it must rest exactly on the projection line drawn on the floor.
• I'm indenting drywall with tiles. I put the tile and drywall together, and then apply it to the line drawn on the floor. I'm making a cut. Then I set aside another 5 mm from this notch, which will go to the glue and self-tapping screws (GKL does not fit as tightly as possible to the galvanized profiles. Then I set aside another 5 mm (the screen surface will be slightly recessed when viewed from the edge of the bath). This will be the final label They need to be done both on the wall and on the floor.

• According to the resulting end marks, using a level or a rule, a final line is drawn, which will be a guideline for aligning the main plane of the screen. But do not forget that you still need to mark the recess.

• I mark the line for gluing the floor profile. To do this, I measure the distance from the outer line to the bathtub leg (no further, otherwise the plasterboard will rest against the leg and it will not be possible to screw it) and make several intermediate marks, along which I draw a straight line, which in my case is about 7 cm away from the first one.

• Then on two walls I measure 10 cm from the floor and make two marks. This will be the height of the recess for the legs. Here, additional lines do not need to be drawn yet, we will set the final guidelines during the installation of the frame.

By the way, it's time to start this stage of work.

Stage 3 - Frame construction

The frame, as you already understood, will be made of a galvanized drywall profile: UD guides (27 by 28 mm in size) and CD carriers (27 by 60 mm in size). You can also take wooden bars, but wood, as you understand, does not tolerate operation in humid air worse, so I personally do not support this option.

Therefore, below I will tell you how to make a galvanized frame:

1. I install floor guide profiles. As I said, this will not be used for “quick installation”, but for ordinary plumbing silicone. It firmly glues the parts and will not allow the screen to move in one direction or another. The scheme is this:
   • The surface of the floor (we have tiles there) and galvanization is cleaned of dust, and then degreased with an alcohol-containing composition. After that, the silicone is loaded into the mounting gun and applied to the prepared part with its help.

• After applying the silicone, the part is applied to the floor along the inner line, which acts as the border of the footwell in the screen. It is necessary to firmly press the part and wait a few seconds until adhesive composition grab. The parts that adjoin the walls (extreme) should be 1 mm away from the wall tiles so that vertical elements can be inserted there, as shown in the photo below.

1. I install vertical guide profiles on the walls. They will also be attached to silicone, but if you wish, you can replace it with dowel-nails or “quick installation” screws. The scheme is as follows:
   • Two profiles 10 cm long (the height of the leg recess) are cut out of galvanization, after which they are smeared with glue and applied to the wall. At the junction of the floor and wall parts, they must be inserted into each other.
   • Then, for strength, these two parts are fastened with a “bug” self-tapping screw. In order not to bend the part when screwing in the self-tapping screw, it must be supported with pliers.

• The top is glued vertical detail. Its length is equal to the height of the cut of the bath above the floor level minus 10 cm. Then the upper and lower elements are connected by a horizontal guide. All of this is tied together. The result should be a design, which is shown in the photo below.

• After gluing, I recommend checking the correct installation of the guides with a tape measure, measuring the distance from the main line. It must be the same.

1. I set a horizontal profile for the upper part of the frame. For it, a carrier element (CD) will be used. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

• It is necessary to measure the distance between the two side elements (installed on the walls), and then cut off a part from the profile equal to this length minus 0.5 cm (for ease of installation).
• After that, I fixed the CD-profile in the upper part of the bathtub, screwing it with screws to two U-shaped parts glued to the walls (we put them in point 2). There is no need to fasten the profile to the bath itself).
• For strength, I blew out the gaps between the profile and the bathtub with polyurethane mounting foam, which will serve as an excellent sealant and will not allow the profile to sag during operation. This is how the design turned out.

1. I install a guide profile, which will play the role of the inner corner of the footwell. It uses a UD part. Here's what you need to do:
   • The corner guide in the case I described rests on the nuts of the bath legs. Therefore, I cut out several small sections in the galvanized part to facilitate the installation of the frame.

• The guide is inserted into the wall structure, after which it is fixed with self-tapping screws. Thanks to the recesses for the bolts, the part is located strictly horizontally.

• Then the inner corner and floor guide profiles must be connected with load-bearing parts (CD). Pieces of the desired length (9.5 cm) are cut, after which they are screwed to the U-shaped parts with self-tapping screws. The distance between them is 30-40 cm.
• At the last stage, the profile adjacent to the bath must be filled with polyurethane foam to avoid possible vibrations. The result should be the design shown in the illustration below.

If you come in to play it safe and fix the profiles on the walls and floor with dowels, then you need to drill holes with tile drills (with sharp heads), otherwise there is a danger of destroying the decorative finish.

1. I do outer corner leg recesses. I will use two U-shaped guides, nested in each other in such a way that a kind of profiled pipe is obtained. square section. So:
   • I put two UD parts into each other, after which I fix them in several places with small self-tapping screws. The length of the profiles, as you understand, should be equal to the distance between opposite wall guides. It is enough to grab these parts in about 4 places just so that they do not fall apart during the assembly process.

• I put the corner guide into the wall profiles. It is necessary to position the part so that the screws with which it is fastened are located below and above. The profile will fit snugly into place, after which you need to check the correctness of its installation using building level and then secure in place with self-tapping screws. I will show the assembly unit near one of the walls in the photo.

1. I hem the ceiling part of the footwell with drywall. This must be done before the installation of the frame is completed, since due to the small size of the recess, this will not work later on objective reasons. The sewing work is done as follows:
   • Using a tape measure, the distance from the outer to the inner profile of the recess is measured, after which a piece of the appropriate width is cut out of the drywall sheet. In length, it should be equal to the distance from wall to wall. Most likely, you will have to use two pieces of drywall. I got it like this.

• Several parts 3-4 cm long are cut from the U-shaped profile. And one part from the CD-profile, which will be needed to splice two sheets of drywall. After that, you need to set these parts flush with the edge of the GKL at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. To make it more convenient, you can put a whole UD profile under the adjacent edge of the drywall. It should turn out like this:

• After that, all the details must be attached to the drywall sheet with ordinary self-tapping screws. 2-4 pieces for each. Make sure that the cut of the part exactly matches the cut of the HA L. The result should be the design shown below.

• According to the number of brackets attached to the drywall sheet, another part is cut out with ears that will rest on the profiles from above. The shape of this part is shown in the photo.

• I fix drywall construction. To do this, it must be inserted into place and pressed from below with scraps more tightly to the frame. After that, insert the parts with ears into the proper places (see above) and fix it all with self-tapping screws. As a result, the horizontal part of the binder will be firmly fixed. The essence of the operation can be understood from the illustration.

1. I install additional load-bearing elements of the frame. They will need a C-shaped drywall profile. The work is done as follows:
   • I cut out a part from the supporting profile, the length of which corresponds to the distance between the walls minus 0.5 cm. After that, I insert it into the wall U-shaped guides approximately at the middle of the height between the upper rail and the lower corner profile. I fix the part with self-tapping screws - “bugs”.
   • From the same C-shaped profiles I cut out parts with ears that will play the role of vertical stiffeners - two each in the upper and lower parts of the bathroom frame. I install them in the right places and fix them with self-tapping screws. It should look like this design.

Stage 4 - Plasterboard sheathing

In principle, the main task is to correctly design the frame. But the fastening of drywall should not be treated carelessly. Therefore, I will try to describe the skin scheme in as much detail as possible:

1. I cut sheets of drywall for sewing the main plane of the screen. The width of the parts from the plasterboard should be such that it closely adjoins the upper cut of the bath, but does not protrude beyond the border drywall sheet at the corner of the footwell. You can cut drywall with a regular clerical knife with interchangeable blades.

1. I fix sheets of drywall on the frame. This should be done using black self-tapping screws that are protected from corrosion. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • The first sheet of drywall is applied to the frame. It must be positioned so that it is flush with the bottom cut of the footwell. After that, I recommend grabbing the part in several places with self-tapping screws, so that it is more convenient to carry out its further fastening.

• After the sheet is tacked and the correctness of its installation is checked, it is possible to compress the GKL using self-tapping screws. They must be screwed into all bearing and guiding profiles. The distance between adjacent fasteners is 30 cm. Do not forget to screw the screws into the vertical jumpers.

• After finishing work on the first sheet, the same should be done with the second. Remember that at the junction of two plasterboards there should be a gap of 2 mm to compensate for the possible expansion of the material during operation. Later, this joint can be puttied or covered with tile adhesive during the tiling process.

1. I cover the front of the screen with ceramic tiles. This must be done at this stage, before it is sewn up with drywall and a recess for the legs is framed. In my case, a large and heavy floor tile is used:
   • Glue is applied to the tile (you need to select a composition that is specifically designed to hold heavy tiles), after which it is distributed over it with a notched trowel.
   • The decorative part is pressed against the drywall, and then leveled with a level. To prevent the tile from moving down before the glue dries, you can use spacers from pieces of wood or drywall.
   • The second tile is glued in the same way. In my case, I had to trim it a little, then processing the edge with a “turtle”, removing a small chamfer from it.
   • After the glue had set, I rubbed the seam between the two tiles with a fugue that matched the color. It turned out something like this.

1. I sheathe a recess for the legs with drywall. This should be done after the glue that holds the tile to the main part of the screen has hardened. The scheme of work is as follows:
   • I measure the height from the floor to the top of the footwell. It should be about 8 cm if the previous measurements were taken correctly.
   • After that, I cut off the details of the desired height from the GKL (8 cm minus the thickness of the tile and glue). Their length should be such that the cuts fall exactly on the transverse elements of the frame strength. In the central part there will be an inspection hatch, so doing in this part should be 1-2 cm apart from adjacent ones.

Stage 5 - Tiling

I have already glued the main part of the tile (see point 3 in the previous section). It remains only to veneer the recess for the legs. This is done as follows:

1. I veneer the ceiling part of the footwell:
   • Several blanks are cut from the tile. Their width should be such that they fit snugly between back recess frame and the overhanging part of the tile, which is glued to the front of the screen.
   • Tile adhesive is applied to the workpiece and spread over it with a spatula. You need to use a special ceiling composition. Its consistency should be thicker than usual in order to firmly hold the part in place after installation.
   • After that, the tile is inserted into the recess and secured with spacers made of pieces.

1. I sew up the vertical wall of the footwell with drywall. This should be done after the lining of the ceiling is completed. You need to make sure that the glue is completely dry and holds decorative material in place. Further work is built like this:
   • Along the edges of the recess, drywall is screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws. We do not sew up the central part yet, since there will be an revision hole in this place.
   • I glue tiles to these details. You need to act in the manner described above: cut out the details the right sizes(make sure that the corners of the tile are equal to 90 degrees), process the edge, smear the tile with glue and press it to the drywall.

• There must be a seam between the floor and the tile in the recess so that it can be sealed with silicone. You can make it with the help of plastic wedges, which are sold at a hardware store.

1. I'm making a door for the revision hole. To make the screen look nice, I will make it out of tiles and not put in a plastic door. The scheme is as follows:

• A piece of suitable length is cut out of the tile, which completely covers the revision hole.
• Four holes are drilled along the edges with a crown, into which self-tapping screws will be screwed.
• After that, the tile is glued onto a piece of drywall (we cut it out in advance).
• The entire structure is screwed into the frame cross members with suitable self-tapping screws.

It remains only to seal all the seams with silicone.

Summary

If you strictly follow the suggested sequence of actions, you will have a durable and beautiful homemade bath screen. Another one simple instructions described in the video in this article.

You can leave your opinion about the information contained in this material in the comments.

August 25, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

One of better ways ennoble a place for a bath and hide all aesthetic flaws - installing a special sliding screen. It will allow you to quickly, and most importantly, qualitatively and beautifully, hide all the flaws.

mirror option - visually increases the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room

If desired, there various photos and video tutorials that will show you how to design a bathroom and install a sliding screen correctly, depending on the type of bathroom and the location of the pipes.

Decide on the material

First you need to decide on the material that will be used for decoration. By and large, all the proposed materials are quite suitable, the difference is only in installation and appearance. Here you should be guided common interior rooms.

The main materials that are used to make do-it-yourself screens:

• moisture resistant drywall;
• plastic.

Of course, brick can also be used, but then finishing will be needed, and these are additional costs, both in time and in finance.

Frame - the basis

This element can be either wooden or metal. In this case, either bars or special profiles are used.

To do frame structure, markup should be done. To do this, the upper side of the bathroom is taken as a reference point. It is advisable to use a level for correct calculations. All components of the future base (profile, fittings, beams) are being prepared.

The next step is to assemble the structure. To do this, first attach the beam to supporting wall, then from it comes the fastening of the remaining parts. For this, self-tapping screws or screws can be used.

It is required to install the frame according to the future screen. That is, if you are supposed to have a viewing window, you immediately need to make special jumpers for it, so that in the end it does not close up. These jumpers are installed vertically. One side should have fasteners for the door, the other - for magnets.

For greater stability of the main structure, it is desirable to fix it additionally to the floor. This can be done with both special fasteners and glue. Besides Special attention should be given to the fixation of structural elements. The stronger it is, the more durable the entire sliding structure will be.

plastic screen

The use of plastic is very wide, mainly due to its qualities. Especially when it comes to a bathroom or a room with high humidity. Plastic does not "bloom", does not mold and does not rot, this is one of the main advantages. To do sliding structure with your own hands made of plastic, it is enough to pick up special panels or lining.

Installing this screen is easy. First, a special plastic starting strip is attached to the frame, it must be placed around the entire perimeter of the frame. Then inserted vertical stripes, which are included in the grooves starting strip until the screen is completely filled.

After all the work done, the door is installed in the viewing window. It can be found in any hardware store, as well as the accessories necessary for it.

Do-it-yourself drywall screen

If you have difficulty installing the frame, it is better to watch video tutorials or photos of how the base should look like.

The use of drywall has one advantage: its further processing can be made from the same material as the walls. That is, after the installation is completed, it involves the use of tiles, paint or plaster. The only condition: to install the structure in the bathroom with your own hands, drywall must only be waterproof. If you use standard material, problems may arise.

MDF panels

Installing a sliding screen with MDF panels- Pretty easy job. Only the frame in this case will be made in the form of a crate, with a step as for wall cladding. With the help of MDF panels, you can create interesting solutions.

It is best to turn to photo or video sources for a quality installation with your own hands.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

In order for the bathroom to take on its finished look, a special screen will need to be installed around it to hide plumbing units. If you manage to mount a reliable screen under the bath with your own hands, then in this way you can save significant money. Moreover, there are no difficulties in such work.

Screen material selection

Many people do not understand how such a screen is made under the bath with my own hands, because they have no idea what material it can be made from. Actually there is a large number of various building materials that can be used in such a room with too high humidity. If you look at the proposed photographs of a do-it-yourself screen for a bathtub, this will make it possible to see that the following materials can be used for such work:

1. Very convenient for this purpose is moisture-resistant drywall; it can be finished later with tiles, plaster or wallpaper.
2. It can be sheathed with moisture-resistant MDF boards, also covered with trim.
3. PVC panels are suitable for this.
4. You can use a sliding screen installed under the bath or with drop-down doors.

If we consider all these options, then only a bath screen made of PVC panels will not require special finishing in the future. This material is very convenient to use because it is practical, completely moisture resistant and easy to clean. In addition, it is also durable, and if you need to make repairs to the screen, you can change one or more strips of plastic.

Requirements

When the desire to decide pressing question, how to make a beautiful screen for a bath, you should first understand what requirements should be placed on it.

• Access at any time to sewer units, the screen must have an opening opening or doors.
• The connection of the floor with the screen in certain cases must be sealed so that moisture does not enter under the bath.
• The screen must not be load-bearing structure, so it is advisable to make sure that the bath cannot lean on it.

If you make a high-quality bath screen using moisture-resistant drywall or PVC panels, then you can leave free space under it so that it cannot interfere with your feet. But in this case, this gap should be at least 10 cm, so that emerging moisture can be wiped out under the bathtub.

Screen mounting

You can watch the video correct installation bath screen; only this will make it possible to understand how to make it and what materials will be required for this. Consider the option of drywall and PVC panels. To do this, you first need to install reliable frame. As a frame for the screen, it is quite possible to use both wooden beam 30x30 or 40x40 mm, also a metal profile.

So that subsequently rot does not appear on the beam and a fungus does not appear, the wood must first be treated with a special antiseptic.

But when installing the frame, if drywall is used, one should take into account not only its thickness, but also the material for the subsequent screen finishing.

In order not to be mistaken, it is necessary to make markings both on the floor and on the wall before installing the frame. And only after the frame is made, is the final stage in the form of attaching the screen under the bath, where you can use drywall, plastic or other material.

The screen serves as a screen for communications connected to the bathroom. Under it, the legs of the bath, installed on linings, drains, sewer outlets, pipes, are perfectly hidden. But besides the functions associated with the aesthetics of space, the screen can perform other useful work. For example, to serve as a support for the stability of the bath or to be a closet for small things.

Acrylic bathtubs and other representatives of the latest generation of plumbing are often immediately equipped with a screen, ideal for hiding dark corners and communications. But what if the bath is old, and you don’t want to see its shabby sides every day? You can purchase a ready-made screen, and if you don’t want to spend money on a store option or you need a screen under the bathroom to 100 percent meet your requirements, you can make a screen under the bath with your own hands. Here are some ways to create a screen.

The screen providing access under the bathroom is made with sliding doors or with a built-in cabinet for household chemicals; may have vertically or horizontally opening cavities. Vertical structures it is advisable to equip openings according to the principle of blinds or equip them with gas lifts and other fixtures that are well known to furniture makers.

bath screen requirements

Bath Screen Materials

Those materials that you will use in the bathroom should not be afraid of water and moisture, temperature changes. It is also important that they are not subject to rapid destruction from mold or fungus.

You can make the base of the screen from almost any building material, and then finish it on the outside to your liking. For cladding, plastic panels or tiles are used.

Homemade screen options:

The fastest way is to cover the frame under the bathroom with MDF panels. Strips of plastic or MDF are biologically neutral and practical. These materials are easy to cut and fasten together.

After erection, the brick base will need to be sheathed and plastered or tiled on it. And before installing a wooden frame, the wood must be covered special impregnation to protect against moisture.

plastic screen. MDF sheathing

MDF screen or plastic lining will be the most simple option, which will allow you to immediately get a clean surface. The MDF screen is easy to disassemble, and plastic sheathing the most economical - if any part is damaged, it can be replaced.

Plastic for shielding the space is attached to the frame, for the formation of which a wooden beam 40 by 40 mm or a metal profile is used. For wood, a moisture-resistant primer is required.

1. cutting MDF and plastic panels carried out in advance. To work with plastic, it is convenient to use a cutter or construction knife. The screen surface is assembled from panels, and where there should be a technological hole, a slot is made into which a grill or door is inserted.

In the finished plastic screen, it is also necessary to cut ventilation slots (on the side where there is no “window”). The recommended slot width is 3 by 5 cm. The ventilation hole is covered with a plastic grill.

Important! When installing a blank screen, make sure that all communications, access to which will block the screen, are in good condition.

Drywall based screen

The principle of the drywall screen is exactly the same as when working with plastic. First, markings are applied to the floor in the bathroom. Next, a frame is built from a metal profile or wood. But there is a significant difference: when installing the frame under drywall, you need to take into account that the finish also has a certain thickness. In particular, if it is planned to finish the screen with tiles, the frame must be “drowned” relative to the surface exactly at the distance that the finishing layer will occupy. If the front material does not affect the wall thickness, then the projection of the frame onto the floor is performed along a plumb line.

Second important point: for work in the bathroom, only special drywall is needed, protected from moisture. In places of the most likely contact with water, it should be additionally primed. Cutting sheets of drywall is carried out in accordance with the height of the screen, minus 2 cm.

It is necessary to fix the sheets, stepping back from the edge of the bath and from the floor by a centimeter, in order to prevent swelling of the gypsum sheet. Direct contact with moisture or a wet surface is contraindicated even for special drywall (recall, it is green).

For fastening sheets, black self-tapping screws are used, screwing them in every 15 cm along the top and bottom profile. Pay attention to the dimensions of the screws and the thickness of the profile: damage to the bath is not the best way completion of work.

After the fastener is completed, the base of the screen must be primed in its entirety and sheathed with any material. It can be ceramic tiles or trim moisture resistant wallpaper, film wrapping, decorative plaster. The voids at the floor and at the upper edge of the bath are filled with mounting foam.

To create a brick-based screen, you need to build a wall half a brick thick under the bathroom. During the initial marking, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the brick + 2 cm of glue + the thickness of the tile, deepening the marks accordingly.

Masonry is carried out with the displacement of each next brick by half (by the way, you can also read about a brick bath with your own hands on our website). This will prevent the wall from collapsing. You need to leave a window for access to communications. The door to the technological opening is attached with the help of canopies. It is impossible for the wall being erected to be a support for the bathroom, since top row brick should be 2-3 cm below the edge of the bathroom bowl. Pour into the gap mounting foam, which seals the joint between the bowl and the wall.

Tile or plaster is suitable for sheathing a brick base.

The screen under the bath can be made as a drapery or close-fitting of fabric and other similar materials. The main thing is to choose quick-drying polyester fiber fabrics.

1. serve well in wet room polyester materials.
2. Fabrics with a membrane structure prevent the formation of fungus, allowing the space under the bath to be ventilated.
3. Waterproof nylon materials - ideal for screen sheathing.
4. A good solution is to cover the frame with artificial leather.
5. It is acceptable to install panels with any finishing solutions that can withstand dampness.

For triangular or corner bath it is most convenient to make plastic or drywall shielding. complex shapes perfectly accept the front decoration with a mosaic that beautifully emphasizes the contour of the bowl. The installation of curved screens also begins with the erection of the frame and then the skin is adjusted in place, in accordance with the smooth lines and curves of the bath.

Installation of a finished screen or sliding doors

The finished screen is an acrylic shield or plastic construction with two canvases that move in different directions. It is best to use the profile that comes with the screen for mounting. But self-made base frames are also acceptable. Also, do not forget to look at the installation instructions for the screen to know what methods it can be fixed with (liquid nails or self-tapping screws).

Video - Do-it-yourself bath screen

Video - How to hide pipes under the bathroom

Video - Screen under the bath

Modern acrylic bathtubs and trays are often equipped with special aprons that hide the hard-hitting metal support structures and cover the empty space under the bowl. As for conventional bathtubs, they are often sold without such fixtures, and, unless the plumbing is designer and has decorative legs, then appearance bowls, leaves much to be desired. Attractive bath screens can correct the situation. What you need to know when choosing finished panel and how to assemble the structure yourself - read below.

A bath screen is a kind of apron, the main components of which are a frame made of steel or aluminum and waterproof panels. Behind such panels can be easily hidden household chemicals, personal hygiene products (this issue is especially acute in small rooms, the space of which does not allow many modules to be placed). Often, an acrylic bathtub is sold complete with a screen. Otherwise, the panel can be purchased separately or made independently.

Folding screens under the bath look stylish and modern, which, as a rule, are equipped with shelves for placing detergents. The disadvantage of such designs is that they require free space next to the bathroom.

Today, there are such types of screens: hinged, sliding, stationary. Designs are selected depending on the shape of the bath. So, for plumbing, which is close to the walls, a front screen is suitable, and for a curly structure or a bathtub with one open side, a corner acrylic shield. Often, screens are made with internal shelves and a retractable storage system.

Choosing bath doors

A popular option that allows you to effectively hide household chemicals and close the space under the bathroom are hinged doors: they make it possible to easily and quickly get the necessary detergents, tools and any other household equipment, while looking attractive and stylish.

When choosing doors for a bath, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Doors must be made of moisture resistant material(e.g. PVC, Plexiglas). If the screen trim is made of wood, then the wood must be marine (moisture resistant). Suitable teak, wenge, larch.
2. Handles should be comfortable, made of of stainless steel or plastic. The same goes for hinges and fasteners.
3. Products should be selected according to the interior of the bathroom. This applies to both colors and materials. For example, for modern bathrooms perfect choice will become mirror screens, for rustic interiors- panels made of wooden planks.
4. If the bathroom already has furniture (hanging cabinets, cabinets under the sink), then it is better that the doors are the same as those of the fittings or as similar as possible.

When choosing products, it should be borne in mind that the doors can be installed under bathtubs, next to which there are no other plumbing fixtures and Appliances, since nothing should interfere with the opening of the doors.

MDF bath screen: pros and cons

Bath doors can be made from almost any material. The main requirement is that it must be moisture resistant. At the same time, it is desirable that the surface of the panels be smooth: thus, dirt can be easily and quickly removed from it. One of popular materials for the manufacture of screens is MDF.

Wood fiber board has the following advantages:

1. Environmental friendliness. Today, MDF boards are made by pressing without the use of binding fibers, so the material is absolutely safe for humans and the environment.
2. Availability. Compared to plexiglass, MDF is much cheaper.
3. Attractive appearance. Outwardly, the material resembles wood, which makes the interior cozy and remains relevant regardless of fashion trends.
4. High density. This makes MDF resistant to hot steam and moisture.
5. Wide range of design possibilities. Fiberboard panels can be made in any style and color.

The disadvantages of the material include its fire hazard: MDF boards are not recommended to be placed next to flammable objects, wiring. Also, MDF does not differ in one hundred percent moisture resistance: with extensive accumulation of moisture on the surface of the material, even installed on the frame, it is well fixed MDF board begins to roll under the weight of its own weight and deform.

Sliding bath panel

A sliding panel for a bathtub is a design that consists of a solid frame with guides or roller mechanism and mobile doors. Panel shutters work on the principle of sliding doors, allowing you to quickly get what you need and get to communications.

Sliding screens can have two or three doors (depending on the length of the bathroom), be decorated with photo printing, mirrors, frosted glass. Some firms offer the production of panels to order: a beautiful screen will be an effective addition to the design of the room, emphasize the style of the interior.

Sliding bath doors are ideal for small bathrooms as they do not take up much space during operation.

The most affordable sliding panels for a bath are plastic. Plexiglas panels are considered the highest quality sliding screens: Plexiglas screens are 100% moisture resistant, have a smooth ride, and are made of quality materials, can be performed in various color options, have a mirror surface.

How to make a sliding screen under the bath with your own hands

The easiest way to install a sliding screen with your own hands is to buy ready kit doors. If there is no opportunity to purchase a set, then you can make the panels yourself. Most often, in order to make a homemade screen, plastic, aluminum profiles, corners and fasteners are used.

The process of installing a sliding panel involves:

1. Drawing markings for the frame. The marking depends on the height and length of the bathtub, and is carried out using the building level. The starting point, in this case, is the side of the bath.
2. Frame installation. aluminum profiles connected in parallel with corners.
3. Installation of guides to the upper and lower frame.
4. Cutting plastic and installing sheets in the grooves of the guides.

The valve can consist of two or more elements. For convenience, metal or plastic handles are attached to the panels.

We make a monolithic plasterboard bath screen

The easiest for self-manufacturing is a stationary bath screen, the main function of which is decorative (the panel will hide the space under the bathroom, but it will be impossible to store household chemicals behind it). To carry out the work you will need: drywall, guides with a supporting profile, material for exterior decoration.

To make a monolithic screen you need:

1. Make a markup for a profile for drywall. The top edge of the bathroom is taken as the starting point for marking. At the same time, during work it is necessary to use the building level.
2. Install a frame from a metal profile (most often use a UD profile). For rigidity, not only the frame, but also the guides should be mounted.
3. Cut the sheet to size and sheathe the frame. If the screen will be crossed by pipes, but the material needs to be cut special holes under communications.
4. Putty joints between sheets of drywall (if any).
5. Trim drywall. The wired material can be decorated with tiles, tiles, wooden moisture-resistant panels, plastic.

In the same way, you can make a screen with a door. To do this, you will need to purchase an inspection hatch at a hardware store and cut a hole in the drywall sheet for its installation.

How to make a bath screen (video)

Modern production of bath screens offers a wide range of products, different in appearance, design, material of manufacture. Today, everyone can choose a panel depending on their own preferences, parameters and design of the bathroom, the shape of plumbing. In addition, you can easily make panels for the bath with your own hands. Mount attractive and practical screens and enjoy the functionality and attractive view own bath!