White spots appeared on the roots of the orchid. Diseases of orchids and their treatment, in detail with a photo

Each owner of graceful orchids strives to make his beauties look like in the catalog photo. Orchids brought from distant warm countries to at home require special attention and care. Otherwise, diseases and harmful organisms can destroy orchids. Florists offer a whole range preventive measures to prevent flower death. But, alas, no one is immune from care mistakes. Then information with a photo about orchid leaf diseases comes to the rescue and their treatment becomes more effective.

This article provides instructions for the owners of Asian beauties, helping to adapt the flower to home conditions and revealing measures to save Asian beauties from diseases and pests.

The main disease-causing problems in care

Modern florists can recognize orchid diseases from a photo and give recommendations on how to deal with them. Practice shows that three main violations in care can lead to diseases:

• disregard for lighting standards,
• improper watering,
• low air humidity.

Problems in low light

Starting to study the issue of proper illumination, it is necessary to accurately determine the type of specimen, because orchids are divided into two main categories: light-loving and shade-tolerant. If you do not remember the name of your beauty, the species is easy to establish from the photo and description from the catalog.

The light-loving club includes: cattleya, vanda, cymbidium, lelia. They love the direct rays of the morning or evening sun. But the scorching midday solar power can scorch the leaves; flowers must be covered from it.

Lack of light threatens light-loving orchids with sluggish small leaves, the bulb will not form well, the plant may stop throwing out flower stalks and delight in flowering. Even from a photo of their leaves, one can always assume a diagnosis - low light. In this case, the treatment is simple.

Those who want to create for their light-loving beauties the most comfortable conditions, it is recommended to purchase a phytolamp. In the autumn-winter period, when daylight hours are short, this device will help orchids stay in their usual long light frames.

Attention! The phytolamp is installed at a distance of at least 30 cm from the leaves, otherwise the leaves will get a thermal burn! Spraying should also be done at a time when direct sunlight or phytolamp light does not fall on the plant. This is the only way to avoid point thermal burns.

Thermal leaf burns are local diseases of orchid leaves that are not harmful, but cause loss of decorative effect.

Unfortunately, burn marks cannot be treated, they remain on the leaves forever.

The shade-tolerant club is represented by such varieties: cambria, phalaenopsis. They will be comfortable on the windowsill of the north window, on a shelf or rack in the back of the room. They can do without additional lighting in the autumn-winter period, if they are placed on the windowsill or on stands located no further than 1 meter from the window.

Damage to orchids with improper watering

The golden rule of the florist: it is better to underfill than overfill, it also works in caring for orchids. There is no clear rule for watering them, since orchids love high humidity (up to 70-90%) and the frequency of watering depends on the humidity indicator. environment. When maintaining the norm in the room and high temperature air (25-27 * C) watering is carried out in the minimum mode: 1 time in 12-15 days.

Excessive moisture leads to the appearance of rot on the bulb or young shoots. You should not wait until the rot manifests itself, as in the photo of textbooks on plant diseases. To eliminate the lesion, you should proceed immediately, discovering its smallest manifestations!

Rot treatment:

1. At minimum sizes rot the affected area is carefully removed sharp knife to healthy tissue. The cut points are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon and a copper-containing drug. In the postoperative period, the flower needs to be maintained in compliance with all the requirements for this type of orchid. The rehabilitation period usually lasts about 1 month.
2. A plant severely damaged by rot, unfortunately, should be destroyed. It cannot be restored.

Prevention of putrefactive processes:

1. Strictly observe the requirements for watering. It will help to strictly adhere to the rule of maintaining a watering calendar placed next to the flowers.
2. Treat all plants with a solution once a month blue vitriol.
3. And don't forget about fresh air! Asian beauties are in great need of its active influx, especially during the daytime. For this purpose, you can use a fan installed at a distance of at least 1 meter from the plants.

Low air humidity

Humidity is measured with a hygrometer. In an ordinary residential area, the relative humidity level is in the range of 50-60%. For guests from the humid tropics, this is not enough.

Remember! It is almost impossible to increase the humidity of the air with increased watering! Humidity can be increased in the following ways:

• frequent regular spraying not of plants, but of the air around them (in summer - up to 10 times per daylight hours in winter, at a reduced temperature of up to 15-18 ° C - 2 times a day with good ventilation);
• placing wide flat containers of water between pots of flowers; photos are presented on the network original ideas bowls to increase humidity;
• a decorative room fountain can become an excellent air humidifier;
• installation of a household air humidifier;
• arrangement of orchids among others indoor plants with abundant leaves.

Orchid pests

Thrips, scutes, false scales, mealybugs, whiteflies, aphids, mites, nematodes are the main pests of orchids. Photos help to detect and recognize them. These insects, not detected in time, can lead not to orchid disease, but to the complete death of not only one specimen, but also all potted flowers in the house.

Presented insect pests feed only on plant sap and its nutrients. They reproduce very actively. That's why preventive examination should be done at least once a month.

In order to enjoy the beauty and perfection of orchids, you should make a lot of effort. Having found a constant algorithm of simple, but regular actions, caring for beauties ceases to seem complicated, and diseases and pests will not touch your beauties. And then not only other people's photos of exotic flowers will delight you.

Phalaenopsis is the most common type of orchid in home cultivation. They are unpretentious in care. Plants with monophonic coloring of inflorescences are in special demand. Phalaenopsis orchids are the least affected by leaf diseases and they are resistant to extreme conditions in urban apartments. However, too low or vice versa high temperature, improper watering, poor soil lead to the fact that the leaves of phalaenopsis (pictured below) are covered with black and yellow spots. What to do in such cases? This is where recommendations from experts with photos come in handy.

Phalaenopsis - various spots on the leaves and other diseases with a photo

What to do if spots of black and yellow flowers? Description of the cause of orchid disease and treatment with photos from professionals.

The list of adverse factors in which phalaenopsis affects a variety of leaf diseases:

• direct sunlight, but the plant needs a large amount of diffused light;
• lack of lighting especially in winter time. In some cases, they resort to artificial illumination with a lamp for up to 14 hours;
• heavy soil, which sticks together after watering and does not let air through to the roots;
• wrong pot. It uses a container with transparent walls, which passes through ultra-violet rays to the roots
• the effect of temperatures below +14 degrees;
• cold drafts;
• flower content at temperatures above +23 degrees. The orchid does not tolerate heat;
• alkalization of the soil.

The above factors can leave phalaenopsis without leaves, reduce their turgor, the leaf plate may become stained, the plant may not bloom for a long time or even die. How to treat an orchid for various diseases? Here, only experts can offer advice.

If the conditions for caring for a flower are fully met, then the spots on the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid may indicate fungal and viral diseases.

Phalaenopsis leaves form sticky, glue-like droplets that can be washed off with water. Cause of the disease: honeydew. This is not a flower disease, but ordinary cell juice. It is released by the flower as a result of experienced stress, for example, sudden changes in temperature or cold air currents. However, honeydew is a favorable environment for pests such as scale insects, black fungus, and mealybugs. Their appearance is evidenced by the characteristic white coating(worm), extensive, black spots (fungal colonies), brown droplets that are easily removed (scale insect). To remove honeydew, the plant must not be exposed extreme conditions, you need to normalize care for him.

Treatment: the scutellum is protected from contact insecticides with a wax panser. Aktara is used to fight the disease. A solution of 4 g of the drug per 5 l of water is used to spray the flower and a solution of 1 g per 10 l of water is used to water the soil. The procedure is carried out 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days. You also need to replace upper layer substrate in a pot without disturbing the root system of the orchid. A complete transplant can harm the plant.

Black spots appeared on the leaves of phenolepsis at their base. At the same time, at first the spots had light brown color and small sizes. Over time, the spots increased and acquired a dark color. The sheet itself is deformed. Disease: black, mushroom rot. It is often referred to as black dry rot. It affects flowers when the soil is waterlogged and the temperature is low. Black rot also appears on the stems of the flower and on its aerial roots. You can prevent the disease by raising the temperature in the room where the flower grows. Watering should be carried out carefully. It is impossible that water
got to the point of growth. Spraying should be carried out in the daytime so that the leaves dry out before night.

If the plant is affected by black rot, the affected areas must be removed. In this case, a sharp blade is used, which must be discarded after the procedure. You also need to treat the flower with Trichopolum, Fundazol, Fitosporin, Sulfur according to the instructions on the preparation.

Black spots on Phalaenopsis orchid leaves can be common sunburn. Black spots are already a severe case. The sun has struck enough sheet plate. Sunburns are easily distinguished from black rot by their characteristic coloration. When hit by the rays of the sun, the spots on the leaves become yellow and extensive, sometimes whitish in color. They do not extend to other parts of the flower. If you remove the orchid from the sun, then the spots gradually dry out. New leaves grow healthy. With sunburn, be sure to shade the flower. Watering is carried out carefully. Water should not get on the affected tissue. Spraying stops. Over time, it is recommended to remove orchid leaves with sunburn.

How to cure phalaenopsis if its leaves first turn yellow and then turn black. Black spots have yellow and green halo. Orchid disease: Fusarium rot. Causes of occurrence: high humidity soil, a high percentage of peat content in the soil, which prevents the earth from drying out, low temperature flower content.

Fusarium rot is caused by a fungus. Treatment of the disease: the orchid must be isolated from
other colors, reduce watering, no spraying. The affected parts must be removed with a sharp blade. Leaves are cut off completely. If there are affected areas on the stem or roots, they are cut out. Sections are processed with green paint. The plant must be treated completely with foundationazole or oxychrome according to the instructions. Plus, treat with tetracycline or Trichopolum (the tablet is dissolved in 1 liter of water). You need to process at least 4 times with an interval of a week. The plant is considered recovered if no new spots appear. New leaves grow healthy.

On the leaves of phalaenopsis appeared spots of brown and Brown color. They darken over time and increase in size. The spots are covered with a grayish coating. They are able to cover the entire leaf plate or stem. Orchid disease: gray rot. It affects the flower at high humidity and low air temperature. Treatment: the plant is isolated, the conditions for caring for it are normalized. The affected areas are removed with a sharp blade to healthy tissue. The places of cuts are processed with brilliant green. Further, it is imperative to treat the plant with Oxychrome, Fundazol or other drugs of the same group.

Today the orchid is not so rare plant in indoor flower garden. However, it is prone to various diseases and requires special care. Unfortunately, to find any full information about the content of the flower, orchid diseases and their treatment is difficult.

Therefore, we have tried to cover the common problems and difficulties of growing an orchid.

Problems with orchid flowering, how to fix them

This houseplant is quite demanding and capricious. Therefore, if you just brought it home after purchase and it began to wither, this is not unusual. Just gotta pick it up appropriate place and take proper care of it.

orchid not blooming

In order not to worry about the flowering of an orchid, even at the time of purchase it is necessary to clarify what kind of variety it is and what its flowering period is. The fact is that different types flowers bloom in different time . But it happens that the expected flowering does not occur, while the green mass continues to grow. The main reasons for the lack of buds are the following:

• sudden changes in temperature;
• improper watering;
• rest disorder;
• lack of light.

Did you know? The most common reason for the lack of flowers on the plant is the lack of light, which causes the plant itself to fade. Most varieties of orchids do poorly even in partial shade, but varieties such as paphiopedilum and phalaenopsis can bloom in such conditions.

The lack of light is indicated by the color of the leaves: they turn bright green, while their natural color is light green. If the leaves turn yellow, this indicates an excessive amount of ultraviolet radiation, that is, excessive lighting. Control measures: the flower should be placed in a more lighted place or removed in partial shade.

Another common problem in the absence of flowering is root diseases. It is difficult to define it. Sometimes, even when the roots rot, the orchid continues to bloom.

But if she did not please flowering for a long time, and everything is in order with the lighting, you should check root system. Most often, it begins to rot due to excessive watering.

In this case, plant transplantation and removal of damaged parts of the rhizome will help. Periodic transplantation is in principle beneficial for its development.

Orchid buds wither

As a rule, in this case, the problems are the same as described above. But there may be additional reasons. First of all, the orchid is very sensitive to a change of residence. If you recently bought one and brought it home, it is not surprising that orchid buds wither and fall off.

Important! Lighting plays a major role in this process. It is logical that in the greenhouse it was suitable and sufficient, and at home it may not be enough or, conversely, there may be too much. Please note that there are shade-loving and light-loving varieties of orchids, this point must be clarified when buying a plant. So, on the northern and northeastern windows, you can grow cambria and phalaenopsis. Angrecums, cymbidiums, lelias, cattleyas, vandas and others are considered light-loving.

In addition, there may be problems with hypothermia orchids. These are very heat-loving plants, so you need to make sure that in winter the temperature in the room does not fall below 22 ° C. Please note that the humidity of the air must be at least 70%, otherwise the flowers will also begin to fall off.

The orchid loves good air circulation, but does not tolerate drafts. She also reacts strongly to the presence of a variety of foodstuffs nearby, especially fruits and vegetables that emit ethylene. He provokes accelerated maturation buds that can wither and fall off without even opening.

Another reason for wilting buds can be pests. In particular, the mealybug feeds on their juice, leading to the premature death of the bud.

Do not forget that withering and falling of flowers is natural process. The duration of flowering different varieties also not the same. Some please variegated flowers a few months, others a few weeks. It is likely that you bought the plant after flowering.

dark spots on flowers

Sometimes they arise not because of diseases, but due to mechanical damage while transporting the plant. Such spots do not spread over the flower, dry out, have uneven edges.

However, spotting may occur due to moisture on the petals during watering or condensation, when the plant was transported in a package. Because of this, the flowers can not only become stained, but also fall off.

If at the same time the plant is still in the sun, then a burn may occur in places where water hits the petals - the water will work like a lens.

Did you know? Brown spots on flowers can lead to fungal disease. In this case, they can deteriorate literally overnight, when the entire plant is covered with spots. At the same time, the affected leaves and stems will be watery, and a moldy coating may appear on them.

Rot: prevention and treatment

Most often when indoor cultivation orchids have to deal with the fight against rot. Moreover, problems mainly arise due to excessive care.

The plant develops watery light brown spots on the leaves. Mostly young. After some time, they darken, grow, gradually merging with each other. Moreover, the lower the ambient temperature, the more abundant watering, the faster these processes occur.

If you have just discovered these signs of orchid disease, you can still help it, cutting out damaged areas sharp tool, grabbing some healthy tissue. Cut edges should be treated with a preparation containing copper or crushed coal.

If these manipulations cannot be done, the flower cannot be saved. It is better to get rid of it until the disease has spread to other flowerpots.

Most often, brown bacterial rot affects such varieties of orchids as paphiopedilum, cymbidium, cattleya, phalaenopsis. Prevention of such diseases consists in spraying the plant with a solution of copper sulfate once a month.

affects the roots of the plant, which soften and deteriorate. In this case, the leaves of the plant acquire a brown tint. The reason for these processes is too high humidity and temperature.

To get rid of the disease, it is necessary to adjust the conditions of the plant, as well as treat the roots and soil with a solution of topsin (0.2%) or a solution of foundationol (0.2%). This must be done three times, with an interval of about three weeks. As a rule, for this the pot is immersed in a solution.

To prevent the disease, it is necessary to use a high-quality substrate, previously disinfected, for planting. Most often, orchids of the Paphiopedilum, Miltonia, and Cymbidium varieties need such care.

The orchid is also characterized by such a leaf disease as gray rot. It's easy to define: dark islands appear on the leaves, covered with a fluffy gray coating. Gradually, the rot passes from the leaves to the soil, then to the flowers, and then to the entire plant. The disease can also begin with flowers, covering them with small brown spots.

The disease occurs due to improper care - high humidity combined with low temperature. But sometimes the cause is excessive fertilization with a high nitrogen content, which reduces the plant's resistance to this disease.

- it is a fungal disease. Therefore, to combat it, it is necessary to remove damaged areas from the plant, and fully treated with fungicides.

Moreover, if the selected drug did not help and after some time the signs of the disease appeared again, another drug should be used. When watering, you should use products that increase the plant's resistance to disease.

Important! Try not to place orchids close to each other or to other plants. Then, in the event of the occurrence of gray rot on one plant, the spores of the fungus will not be able to spread to the neighboring one.

Most willingly, gray rot "settles" on orchids that bloom with white flowers: cattleyas, cymbidiums, phalaenopsis.

A fungal disease occurs when the flower is in a too cold room. Especially if before that the plant was sick or survived the attack of pests. In this case, the spots on the orchid leaves are removed with a sharp and sterile instrument, and the cut edges are treated with Bordeaux liquid or charcoal.
Next, the plant must be transplanted into another pot or into the same, but pre-sterilized. It is planted in fresh sterile substrate, and the former must be eliminated. After transplantation, the plant creates the necessary conditions.

Frequent patients with a similar diagnosis are Cattleya and Paphiopedilum orchids.

If the leaves of orchids turn yellow or spots appear on them, you will probably have to deal with Fusarium rot. In this case, the leaves soften, curl, and the spores of the fungus give them a pinkish tint.

The main cause of such diseases is high humidity with poor air circulation. Most often, orchids of the epidendrum, miltonia, phalaenopsis varieties suffer from this disease if the necessary conditions are not met.

Recommended as a treatment treatment of the plant three times a day with a solution of foundationazole (0.2%). Treat all plants carefully, as rot spots can also appear on the shoots. At the same time, for the period of treatment, it is necessary to refuse to spray the plant, to ensure that it does not stand in drafts.

Leaf diseases: symptoms, prevention and treatment

Orchid diseases can be viral, bacterial or fungal in nature and manifest themselves in completely different ways: in the form of raids, stains, rot. Accordingly, for each disease there is a method of treatment.

Important! Almost all orchids lose their color over time, even when proper care. The lack of light weakens the immunity of the plant, but the light-loving orchid does not tolerate direct sunlight. Especially carefully it is necessary to accustom the orchid to the spring sun, shading those plants that stand on the south side so that they do not receive sunburn. Gradually getting used to the sun, the flowers will require shading only on a hot afternoon.

Most often, this fungal disease affects the leaves of the plant. Tiny but distinct round brown spots appear on them, which increase, connecting with each other. Large affected areas turn black, forming dips. If the plant is sick for a long time, a pink or yellowish coating may appear in these areas.

Causes: stagnant water in the axils of the leaves and high humidity.

Treatment begins with trimming the affected areas. Sections must be treated with ash or activated charcoal, and the plant itself with preparations containing copper. Processing is carried out three times with breaks of ten days. At the same time, it is necessary to reduce watering and completely abandon top dressing.

To prevent fungus it is necessary to ensure that the humidity of the air does not exceed 70% and does not fall below 40%, while regularly and well ventilating the room. Watch for water in the leaf axils and pseudobulbs. If she gathers there, remove it in time with a napkin or cloth.

Phalaenopsis, paphiopedilum, oncidium, and miltonia orchids are mainly susceptible to a similar disease.

Phalaenopsis orchids are most susceptible to this disease. First, on infected plants, the leaves turn yellow, then darken, then soften and crack. Liquid appears in the formed sores.

To get rid of the disease,such areas are cut out with a sterile and sharp instrument, the sections are treated with iodine or activated charcoal. If there are a lot of spots or the lobar vein is damaged, treatment should be carried out with stronger preparations. If after such procedures no relapse occurred within 10 days, then the plant has recovered and is non-infectious.

The disease occurs due to too bright lighting in the warm season, excessive fertilization, or improper watering.

Kinks in the leaves can cause ordinary mechanical damage. However, in some cases, they indicate insufficient watering of the orchid or its strong hypothermia after watering.

Also pay attention to fertilizers. If they contain too much nitrogen, this can also cause deformation of the leaves of the plant: thickening, fractures, cracks, discoloration to dark green.

To get rid of the problem, it is enough to refuse fertilizer for a while. It is also recommended to wash the roots of the plant and transplant it. Please note that after this procedure, the orchid may linger in growth for some time - this is a normal process.

This kind of damage appears on plants usually in spring and summer. When the activity of the sun increases. Orchids need light in large numbers, but scattered, and the direct rays of the sun for her, as a rule, are fatal and cause burns.

Provoke similar consequences and the remaining droplets of moisture on the leaves and petals. In this case, water, multiplying the strength of the sun's rays, contributes to the burn of the leaves - discolored areas with a brown edge appear on them. Over time, they dry out, forming holes.

The affected plant must be shaded, giving Special attention watering, but not flooding the flower. Heavily damaged areas must be removed by processing the edges of the cut. Top dressing during this period is better not to use.

About appearance powdery mildew He speaks white coating on leaves and flower buds. The areas covered with it dry out over time, and the plant itself dies. Disease occurs under conditions high humidity combined with high temperatures - the so-called greenhouse effect.

As soon as you find signs of this disease, you should immediately adjust your care and start treatment. For this the plant is treated with Topsin-M, Skor, or a solution of colloidal sulfur.

As a preventive measure the orchid should be sprayed with Fitosporin. This is recommended for all home orchids, as any of them has a risk of picking up powdery mildew.

A relatively rare, but no less dangerous disease. It also has a fungal nature and primarily affects the leaves of the plant.

Moreover, it first affects the lower part of the sheet, forming light spots. Over time, red pads appear on them, in which spores of the fungus ripen. Note that the disease appears on the weakest parts of the plant.

To get rid From him, it is necessary to remove the affected areas, no matter how large they are. Remember to disinfect the cut sites with 20% alcohol or activated charcoal. Also recommended treat the plant with preparations "Mikosan", "Ridomil", "Skor", "Topsin-M".

The plant becomes ill due to the appearance of various pests on it: white scale insects, mealybugs, aphids. Its spores reproduce well in their sweet secretions.

The fungus grows by clogging the stomata of the leaves. As a result, the plant does not receive required amount light, weakens and, if left untreated, dies. Treatment consists of processing with the same preparations: "Mikosan", "Ridomil", "Skor", "Topsin-M".

Viral diseases of orchids

Oddly enough, orchids can also suffer from viral diseases. If a similar diagnosis was found in one plant, it must be urgently removed from others and destroyed. Doesn't exist in any way effective methods treatment of plants from viruses.

The most unpleasant thing is that the virus does not appear in the plant for a long time. It may be evidenced by the changed shape and color of the plant. Remember: if you have several flowerpots and watering is common in one container, all plants are infected.
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Phalaenopsis orchid diseases, which are most often grown at home, are few, but their appearance, including spots and yellowing, signals improper care, as well as other reasons, including natural aging plants.

If the plants bloomed, and then abruptly stopped, which is accompanied by the appearance of other problems, then urgent measures should be taken to correct care errors. It is possible to develop a treatment regimen and begin the process of healing a plant only after it visual inspection and determining the root cause of the disease.

General information about the Phalaenopsis orchid

Phalaenopsis orchids are quite undemanding and easy to grow at home, thanks to which this plant has become very popular among flower growers in our country. However, quite often, flower lovers, especially beginners, do not know the reasons why spots appear or wilting of the leaves of their orchids is observed.

The further the moment of treatment from the onset of the first symptoms of the disease, the more difficult it is to cope with the problem. It is better to familiarize yourself with the main forms of manifestation of the most common diseases of orchids grown at home by looking at photos of plants during the period of the disease, so it will be easier for you to determine what problem your flower has and how to deal with it.

Why are the leaves wrinkled?

Sometimes the leaves of any type of orchid become quite soft and completely lose their turgor, and the plant itself looks too lethargic and sheds its green mass. There are several reasons why indoor plants experience these leaf changes.

• This may mean that there was a significant problem with the root system, and it stopped supplying water to the leaves of the plant in full, which is most often the result of improper care.
• The reason may be the general weakness of the plant, which may subsequently die altogether.
• Wilting and loss of leaf elasticity can occur due to improper irrigation and other water procedures.
• In Phalaenopsis, as well as Vandas, the lowest leaves may turn yellow and even fall off for natural reasons.

Leaves on Phalaenopsis live a very long time in conditions quality care, but of course not forever, and dropping them starting from the lowest leaf while maintaining the overall healthy appearance of the plant is not a problem.

Beginners in the field of floriculture should remember that the leaves on Phalaenopsis can most often wither, lose elasticity or fall off for several reasons, including overflow or, conversely, constant overdrying of the plant, as well as too cold conditions and improper care.The plant should be treated based on the root cause of the disease, and photos and descriptions of diseases in books for flower growers and on specialized sites on the Internet will help determine it.

How to get rid of gray rot (video)

Why black spots and white dots appeared on the leaves, how to treat

In a healthy Phalaenopsis orchid, the leaves should always shine and shine, and also be free of spots. However, as a result of a number of reasons, spots on the leaves may still appear.

• Burn spots may occur on leaves as a result of spraying plants in the sun. Such "sunburns" are light and dry.
• Orchids when grown at home can be carriers for a very long time viruses and various diseases and yet never detect it. The first signs of the manifestation of diseases are black spots, which first appear on the lower leaves of the plant.
• From overuse hot water during shower procedures, Phalaenopsis orchid leaves can also appear in various sizes black spots.
• Spots of calcium salts cannot be attributed to the symptoms of diseases, since they appear due to the use of hard water. To remove them, wipe the leaves of the plant with a weak solution of orange or diluted lemon juice. Such processing must be done with extreme caution.

Flower growers should remember that if wet spots appear on the leaves of plants cultivated at home, they must be urgently removed. This should be done as quickly as possible, since these spots grow very quickly and can provoke rotting of the whole plant and the appearance of a number of other diseases. To correct the situation, it is enough to assess the measure of changes in the photo, develop a treatment regimen and adjust care.

You can find out about the reasons for the appearance of black spots on the leaves and flowers of orchids.

Why leaves become soft

There are several reasons why the leaves of an orchid like Phalaenopsis become too soft and lose their natural turgor.

• If the leaves of any indoor orchids become soft or too sluggish, damage to the plant's root system may be the root cause.
• Often sluggish leaves this indoor flower become due to a severe moisture deficit or a significant violation of all irrigation measures and the basics of care.
• Sometimes the leaves room orchid can become soft, and also lose turgor as a result of excessive moisture in the planting substrate. In this case, the plant looks rather lethargic.

Beginners in growing plants of the Orchid genus at home should remember that if the condition of the plant worsens day by day, the leaves turn yellow and become soft, then this indicates problems with the root system, and the plant needs urgent rescue and care control.

However, it is impossible to draw hasty conclusions, and even more so to treat orchids without complete data on the state of the plant. In order to effectively deal with the problem, it is necessary, first of all, to correctly assess the current situation.

Other orchid diseases and their treatment

As a rule, failures in the vital system of a plant are associated with diseases and consist in the following manifestations, which are easily identified from the photo:

• Edema of the leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid species may be associated with prolonged contact of the plant with moisture.
• Viral diseases the plant is quite rare, and appears in the form of mosaic spotting of leaves and flowers.
• For some diseases, the appearance of small spots in the form of arrows, as well as peculiar circles or stripes, is characteristic.
• Spots on the leaves may be a manifestation of bacterial spotting of the plant.
• There may be a change in leaf color as a result of anthracnose or powdery mildew.
• Quite often there is a defeat of such indoor plants with rust or soot, black fungi, as well as a variety of rot.

Orchid diseases most often occur when excess moisture remains on the leaves and flowers, and also when the soil has poor drainage. Changes in cultivation and effective procedures sanitation can minimize almost any disease.

If your orchid dries and wilts, then this may be a symptom of various diseases. The most common orchid diseases are fungal infections. These can be diseases of leaves and flowers in the form of spots on them, as well as fungal or bacterial rot. Early detection of the disease crucial for the treatment of orchids.

The most common diseases can only be prevented or cured at an early stage

Viruses

Cymbidium mosaic and odontoglossum virus are very similar, but, nevertheless, various diseases orchids. The first appears on the orchid flower as stripes or spots, while the second appears on the leaves as spotting, discoloration and deformation. Both of these viral infections have no known cure, so if you find similar symptoms in your orchid, you need to get rid of it as soon as possible to prevent the virus from spreading to other plants.

Bacterial brown spot

This bacterial disease, which appears on orchid leaves as a small blister spot that gradually turns brown and forms a bacterial fluid. This disease needs to be detected as early as possible because it can kill the plant very quickly. As soon as you notice the stain, you should cut out the infected area with a sterile instrument. After the infected area is cut out, you need to spray Phizan 20 or Phyton 27 on the damaged area. If neither of these products is available, you can use both cinnamon and listerine as an alternative. If this disease is not detected in time, it can spread to the crown of the orchid, which almost always leads to its death.

black rot

It is an extremely contagious disease that turns parts of the orchid jet black. The disease usually begins on leaves, shoots, or roots and can spread rapidly, especially in high temperature and humidity. To remove black rot, remove the infected area with a sterile instrument and spray a fungicide on the area you cut off.

Botrytis

This is a fungus that appears as small black or light brown spots on orchid flowers. To prevent the spread of botrytis, always remove wilted flowers or those that have already fallen off the plant. You will need to remove a fully infected flower with a sterile instrument and then spray the cut with a fungicide. Botrytis infection occurs when moisture remains on the flowers, usually after watering. Drops of water left on the flowers encourage the growth of Botrytis.

Anthracnose

The fungi that cause this disease affect most types of orchids, especially the Dendrobium. Infected plants develop dark, water-soaked lesions on stems, leaves, or flowers. The centers of these lesions are often covered with pink, gelatinous masses of spores, especially in damp, warm weather. To deal with Anthracnose without chemicals, try treating the diseased areas baking soda, mixed in a proportion of 1 tsp. per liter of water. Add 0.5 tsp/L to the solution. garden oil or insecticidal soap. Reapply after two weeks. If that doesn't work, try using a copper fungicide.

Southern late blight

The disease is also known as root rot and is a rapid decay and rotting of the roots and lower parts leaves. The base of the orchid will turn creamy yellow and the other affected tissue will turn brown. Sometimes you can find the growth of porcini mushrooms growing on stems, pseudobulbs and leaves. If this disease is detected early enough, you can cut out the affected areas with a sterile instrument and spray with a fungicide. This mushroom thrives in warm and humid environment so to prevent this disease, you can keep the plant in a slightly cooler and drier place after treatment to reduce the chance of re-infection. If the disease is widespread throughout the plant, then it is almost impossible to save it.

When trying to save a plant, it is very important never to cut the infected area, but to remove the diseased tissue while grabbing the healthy one. Otherwise, it will serve to spread the disease throughout the plant.

Orchids are pretty hardy plants and can be resurrected from many different problems if those problems are detected early enough.

By checking your orchid regularly, you can detect these problems early and deal with them in the bud.

The most common orchid pests

When pests are first detected, they must be identified quickly and correctly in order to be able to use the most effective control. In many cases, especially if there are a lot of pests, it will be necessary to treat the flower with insecticide every seven to ten days, at least three times, because the eggs are resistant to treatment and it is necessary to wait for them to hatch in order to treat again.

Aphid

Aphids come in all colors - including green, red, pink, black and yellow - and they usually live on the succulent and freshest parts of the plant, including shoots and buds. Look for clusters of aphids on flower buds, young shoots and leaves. If you see clear, sticky drops anywhere on the plant, look for aphids nearby.

Mealybugs

A fairly common pest of orchids, especially for the Phalaenopsis variety. At first glance, it seems that the leaves of the plant have some kind of fluffy white mass. Closer inspection reveals a wingless insect that feeds on plant tissue. They seem to come from nowhere and quickly spread throughout the plant or several plants. They like to hide in cracks and under leaves, so by the time we see them on top of the leaves, it is likely that their population will already be quite large. Looking under the leaves you can find powdery growths. Getting rid of this pest usually requires several treatments with insecticides.

thrips

They look like long midges and are very difficult to see with the naked eye. But damage from them is detected more easily - it manifests itself in the form light stripes on flowers or leaves. Flower buds are also commonly deformed.

Shchitovka

It is a very common pest on orchids and also occurs in different forms, but most of them have a shell that serves as a kind of armor for the insect's soft body. It is necessary that this shell be impregnated chemical and then rub the insects with your fingers to kill them effectively. They are often found on the underside of leaves near the middle vein or along the leaf margins, and also on flower stalks.

spider mite

Those tiny, fast-moving patches of red "dots" you've probably seen before. They love warmth and dryness. In the last stage of infection, you will see a thin band on the leaves. Before an infestation becomes fatal, the foliage takes on a shading effect that is the result of their feeding.

Pest control methods are listed in the following table: