How to grow a walnut tree from a walnut. Preparing the soil for growing walnuts

Walnut (Juglans regia L.) is a powerful tree of the Walnut family (Juglandaceae), reaching a height of 30 meters or more. The plant is characterized by extraordinary longevity, in nature there are specimens aged 500-600 years. The historical homeland of the walnut is vast territories from the Carpathians to Turkey, Iran, Iraq, Afghanistan, from Central Asia to Northern India. It was from these places that it began to spread throughout the world. Latin name of this plant - Juglans regia L., which literally means "royal acorn". This nut received the Russian name "walnut" about 1000 years ago thanks to Greek merchants who brought it in large quantities to Kyiv and other cities of Kievan Rus. The Greeks, in turn, brought it from Persia. Nowadays Walnut it is possible to grow it much to the north of its original places of growth: in Belarus, in Russia, and even in Norway.

The history of this culture dates back to the distant past, in India, the nut is mentioned in Sanskrit writings (in the 1st century BC), and in China, the nut was cultivated 140 BC. According to Pliny the Elder, the walnut was brought to Europe from Iran by the Greeks in 750-500 BC. e. It later spread first to Italy, and later to France, Germany and the Balkans.

General information about the walnut
Walnut is a dioecious, wind-pollinated plant. Generative kidneys are male and female. The former occupy a lateral position on a fruitful shoot and are collected in an inflorescence (catkins). Pollen in male flowers (catkins) is carried by the wind over distances of more than 100 meters. The buds from which female flowers appear are always laid at the ends of annual shoots. In addition, on the central shoot there are many dormant buds that serve to restore the plant if its aerial part is damaged.
On the same tree, male and female flowers bloom at the same time, which makes the tree practically self-fertile. So the plant is reinsured from self-pollination. And to be with the harvest, varieties are planted with different type flowering: when male flowers bloom first on some trees, then female flowers on others. Pollination should only be cross-pollinated. If it is not possible to plant several trees, then a stalk of a variety of a different type of flowering is grafted into the walnut crown. There are varieties and forms that are self-fertile, with simultaneous flowering of inflorescences, but the best pollination is achieved in group plantings.
Walnut is a fairly thermophilic plant. In winter, during the dormant period, the critical temperature for female kidneys is minus 21°C, for male kidneys - minus 23°C. But during the growing season, growing shoots, leaves and flowers turn black and die already at minus 1 ° C.
In recent decades, thanks to selection and breeding, scientists have managed to develop fairly winter-hardy and frost-resistant forms for various zones of our country. Undersized - up to 8 meters and even dwarf - up to 5 meters varieties were obtained. These are, first of all, such varieties as "Ideal" and "Osipov". Variety "Ideal" surprisingly justifies its name. Firstly, it differs from other varieties in its ultra-fast fruiting. Sometimes even one-year-old seedlings produce 2-3 full-weight thin-skinned nuts. Secondly, the variety is quite winter-hardy. Thirdly, even with seed propagation, the variety does not give splitting of the main maternal traits, and fourthly, the nut has a thin shell, and the kernel has a pleasant, sweet taste. In the last decade, this variety has spread widely throughout Russia and abroad, new interesting hybrids with local varieties have appeared, in which the main properties of "Ideal" - precocity and short stature - have been preserved.
Today, a fruit-bearing walnut tree is not uncommon in the Baltics. There is some experience of its cultivation in the regions of the middle belt with relatively mild winters (up to -25-30 ° C). Many years ago, frost-resistant walnut trees were planted and gave fruit in Moscow on the Lenin Hills.
walnut varieties grown in middle lane countries, for the winter you need to bend down and additionally cover with snow. For the convenience of shelter, it makes sense to grow them in a creeping form. With seed propagation, the plant begins to bear fruit from the age of three and even earlier.

Reproduction of a walnut
Walnut is propagated by seeds, grafting, as well as cuttings and layering. The easiest way to propagate is by seeds. Select seeds from high-yielding, frost-hardy, large-fruited, late-blooming, and pest- and disease-resistant trees. Please note that seed germination lasts only for a year.
If the nut is intended for autumn sowing, it can be sown without drying. The bed is dug up to a depth of 30-40 cm, the seeds are laid out in grooves 7-9 cm deep, at a distance of 15-20 cm in a row and 50-60 cm between rows. After planting, the soil is compacted, mulched with straw or fallen leaves, and in winter with snow.
After passing natural stratification, in mid-May, the seeds will sprout. Over the summer, seedlings will grow up to 30 cm and develop a good root system. If the winter is not snowy, with thaws that alternate with severe frosts, autumn sowing may be unsuccessful due to poor germination.
Spring sowing is always safer, but requires care for seed storage. Nuts left until spring are best placed in wooden boxes in one layer, sprinkling them with wet sand, and put in a cold place with a temperature close to zero. Before sowing, for a month and a half, the box is moved to a room with a temperature of 5-7 ° C. If the room is dry, then to increase the humidity, you can put water in an open container near the box.
On the day of sowing, inspect and sort the nuts. The best are those whose shell halves parted a little and a sprout appeared in the crack. Well, if he went out by a few millimeters, it is satisfactory if he appeared by 1-2 cm.
For planting, you can use semi-shaded places, avoiding, however, heavily shaded, where the plants will be weak and at the same time will stretch out a lot.
At the bottom of the groove, the nut is laid with a seam in a vertical plane. Beginners often make mistakes. Assuming that the stem of the plant comes out first from the pointed part of the valves, they put the nut with the point up, which slows down its growth, since the root and stem, changing the direction of growth, form a knot that remains forever and oppresses the plant. Incorrect position of the seed delays fruiting by an average of three years.
Since germination during spring planting is close to 100%, the distance in the row is increased to 30 cm. The depth of planting is 7-9 cm, a deeper planting retards growth, shallow planting is dangerous by drying out. If the nut is planted in a permanent place, a hole is dug with a depth and diameter of about one meter. Fall asleep it so that the upper layers of the soil fall down, and the lower ones go up. Add a few buckets of compost to the planting hole. 3-4 nuts are planted in a prepared place in order to leave the most best plant. They are placed in a triangle or square with a side of 20-25 cm. The soil is compacted in such a way that there is no excess on the surface. Water after planting. Further care consists in removing weeds, loosening the soil to a depth of 4-5 cm and watering during the dry period.
Dig up seedlings for transplanting to a permanent place better in spring at the age of two. Do this so as not to damage the lateral roots. The vertical root, sometimes reaching more than a meter, is cut or cut sharp knife at a depth of 40 cm, the wounds are covered with clay.
As a rule, a seedling nut begins to bloom and bear fruit in the 8-10th year. To get the first harvest faster, the plant can be grafted. But since there are a lot of tannins in the bark, the vaccine takes root with difficulty.
Propagation by grafting accelerates the harvest by 4-5 years, and helps to spread valuable varieties faster than by seeds. But this approach has not been widely adopted. main reason The walnut is easily propagated by seeds. Due to self-pollination, they quite well convey the properties of their parents. Another reason is the poor survival rate of grafts. Vaccination is done in the spring at an air temperature of 25-27 ° C and a relative humidity of 70-75%. A successful outcome is possible if the scion is at rest, and the rootstock is in a state of growth. Therefore, shoots for cuttings are harvested in the fall, after the leaves fall, and they are stored in cellars at a temperature of plus 10-19 ° C, and later at a temperature not higher than + 9 ° C. You can take cuttings immediately before vaccination or 20 days before it, when the kidneys have not yet begun to grow.
Store them in a glacier, in wet sand or sawdust.

Of the many methods of grafting, the simplest and most reliable is improved copulation. It is important to choose the right rootstock. The seedling must be from local varieties, well developed and strong. The use of other types of walnut (black, gray) on the rootstock is attractive in that they have a better root system and growth, are resistant to cancer, nematodes and burns.
The second method of grafting is budding. This is a glimpse of the growth of the current year. The eye is a growth bud with a small layer of wood and bark above it. Conduct budding in the summer.

Features of growing walnuts
Walnut is responsive to light and heat. It does not bear fruit well in compacted and insufficiently ventilated plantings. And with strong shading, young plants can die altogether. The tree grows well on almost all soils, except for swampy, waterlogged and very heavy clay soils. The site is better to choose a flat one. As an option - the middle and upper parts of the small southern and western slopes. Landings in the lowlands are doomed to failure in advance, because here, especially in spring, cold air and water constantly accumulate and stagnate. Those wishing to cultivate walnuts in the northern regions are advised to plant seedlings in sunny places protected from the wind. The ideal place would be landing near the walls of buildings on the south and south-west sides, which will make it possible to increase the sum of active summer temperatures by several degrees.
Most forms of walnut normally tolerate a short-term decrease in air temperature to -20-25°C. However, even with a short-term drop in temperature to -30 ° C, annual shoots can freeze in trees and frost holes appear on skeletal branches.
Especially dangerous for the walnut are returnable spring frosts. A short-term decrease in temperature to minus 0.5-1°C already causes the death of young shoots, leaves, female flowers and ovaries. In the future, the tree is restored due to dormant buds, but the yield is greatly reduced.
It is better to prepare a landing pit in the fall. On the fertile soils with a humus layer thickness of up to 30 cm, its dimensions can be 60x60 cm. If the soils are poor, up to 1 m in width and depth. The pit is filled with 2/3 of the volume with a well-mixed mixture of fertile soil, humus and peat (1: 1: 1) with mineral fertilizers (superphosphate up to 3 kg, potassium chloride up to 0.8 kg, dolomite flour 0.5-1 kg, ash 1-2 kg). The use of fresh organic fertilizers, can lead to the death of tender young roots. After that, 15-20 liters of water are poured into the pit and a support stake about 2 m high is installed. The grafted seedlings or seedlings are planted in the spring.
When planting, the plant is placed in a hole on compacted soil so that its root neck is 3-4 cm above the soil level. The roots are straightened, they are given the position in which they were when they were dug out. After planting and trampling watered: 3-6 buckets of water. When water is absorbed, the surface is backfilled thin layer dry land and mulch with humus, chopped straw, peat or other material that can retain moisture and allow air to pass through. Be sure to tie the seedling to the stake, because it grows big leaves(up to 0.4-0.5 m or more in length), the crown has a large windage, which is why, with strong wind, the seedling can lie on the ground.
Transplanting inevitably weakens the roots of the plant. Therefore, immediately after planting, unnecessary branches are removed and all remaining ones are shortened by half. Insignificant, and later large wounds are covered with garden pitch.
Further care of the plant consists of removing weeds, mulching and watering in dry years. If the soil is not mulched, you will have to do weeding and watering more often. The annual growth of mulched plants doubles compared to non-mulched ones. The walnut grows slowly in the first year or two, but then it seems to “shoot”, stretching up to 1 m per season.

Walnut shaping
Walnut, especially grafted, needs shaping. Already in August or early spring of the next year, side shoots are removed from annual seedlings on a trunk. They are cut with a sharp knife at the very base at the level of the bark. The easiest way to influence the crown is to break off extra buds with your fingers or pinch them with your nails, no var or tool is needed. In two-year-old seedlings, the bole is cared for throughout the season. The same at the age of three. If by this time the tree has not gained the required height (1.1-1.5 m), then such pruning should be continued in the 4th and 5th year of life. At the age of four, almost all young trees have already formed a stem and a crown is laid. Continue removing all side buds and shoots as you did before until they stop appearing.
From 3 to 6 skeletal branches are left as the basis of the crown. They should depart from the central conductor at an angle of at least 45-60 degrees, and between two adjacent skeletal branches - 90 degrees or more. In this case, the branches are firmly fused with the trunk.
Forming plants according to the type of bowl (for vigorous trees) from 3-4 skeletal branches, when the trunk reaches a height of 1.1-1.5 m, in addition to the central conductor, 1-2 strong branches are left, which shorten to two buds. The rest are cut out. In late spring - early summer (when the threat of frost has passed), one weak shoot that has grown from these buds is cut out on each branch. When strong shoots reach a length of 80 cm or more, pinch their tops to accelerate the development of lateral buds and stimulate the appearance of second-order shoots. In the future, for laying skeletal branches located 30-40 cm above the first, they do the same.
When forming branches of the second and third order, make sure that they are evenly located in the crown space at a distance of at least 50-60 cm from the stem. The period of crown formation lasts 3-4 years, after which the central conductor is cut to the upper skeletal branch, which extends to the side. Avoid thickening of the crown and the appearance of forks with sharp corners.
In the first years, the nut must be covered for the winter: tie the trunk with spruce branches, and spud the grafting site with earth. As the plant grows, the side branches are tied to the trunk, lifting up. In the spring, when the threat of frost has passed, release them to "freedom".

Walnut pruning
Pruning is carried out in the second half of summer, when growth stops and sap flow stops. In early spring, the nut will “cry”, and the var will not stick to the cut. Pruning should not be delayed: poorly developed, thin, intertwining branches or branches growing in an unnecessary direction are immediately cut off. Do not get too carried away with pruning, at the slightest doubt, cut or not cut, it is better to leave the branch. Pruning stimulates growth: if the tree is growing poorly, prune and it will grow faster.
During the fruiting period, the crown is thinned out every 2-3 years in early spring. This helps to improve its illumination and aeration. The branches of the first and second order are transferred to the lower ones, dry, diseased, rubbing and insufficiently productive shoots are removed. They are shortened only if the annual growth is 80 cm or more. This should not be done en masse because of the large loss of the future crop.
In old trees with a cessation of growth and a decrease in productivity, it is advised to cut the skeletal and semi-skeletal branches to 1/3-1/8 of their length. After that, over the course of several years, a new crown is formed. Good results are also obtained by the annual removal of 1-2 branches.
You should not rush to pruning branches damaged by frost, as they can still recover. Postpone this event until next spring, when the dead parts will be visible.

On a note.
Almost nothing grows under the nut, as its roots go deep, up and in all directions, taking all the nutrients from the soil. In addition, walnut leaves contain a special substance - juglone, which is toxic to other plants.

top dressing
If, when planting seedlings, you added the recommended organic and mineral fertilizers, then the nut will be provided with the necessary substances for the next 3-5 years. In the future, per 1 sq.m organic (3-6 kg of rotted manure or humus), phosphorus (5-10 g) and potash fertilizers(3-8 g) are applied every 2-3 years at the beginning of September, planting them in the soil to a depth of 10-20 cm. Nitrogen (10-15 g) - annually, in the second half of April in the form of a solution or dry to a depth of 3 -4 cm
For growth, development and fruiting, not only macro-, but also microelements (boron, manganese, magnesium, etc.) are important. Especially if there are signs of their lack in the soil - the death of the ovaries, yellow spots on the leaves, the weakening of growth, etc. The doses are the same as for other fruit trees.

Harvesting
As soon as the pericarp (green shell) cracks, the nuts can be removed. Depending on the variety and weather conditions, this happens from the end of August to the end of September. Removing walnuts from a tree is quite difficult. However, nature took care of this - the ripened fruits themselves fall to the ground. All you need to do is shake them off and pick them up. The collected nuts are cleaned from the pericarp. In some forms, it separates easily, in others it is more difficult. Then this is done a few days after harvesting.
Fresh nuts are tasteless, and the yellow unripened film of the kernel is noticeably bitter. Drying helps. The fruits collected and peeled from the pericarp are scattered in a thin layer in a dry place, in the shade, for example, in the attic. As a result, after a week or two, the nuts lose excess moisture, acquire a normal taste and the ability for long-term storage.

Diseases and pests of walnut
There are several possible causes of walnut disease. Among them are late spring frosts that damage the pericarp of fruits and leaves, hail, growing trees on heavy clay soils, close occurrence of groundwater (1-1.5 m from the soil surface) with high mineralization, waterlogging of the soil in trunk circle, acid (or alkaline) rainfall, etc.
The most common marsonia, or brown spot. This fungal disease appears during prolonged rainy weather. During flowering, the disease can destroy up to 90% of female flowers, and the trees will be left without a crop. Marsonia also affects young leaves. At first, reddish-brown, then gray-brown spots form on them, which gradually increase, the affected organ dies. On annual shoots, light gray, brown and depressed spots of oval and rounded shape appear. The fungus that causes this disease overwinters in fallen leaves (infected) and fruits on the ground, in wounds and cracks in branches. To combat marsonia, as a rule, trees are sprayed three times with one percent Bordeaux liquid, which is prepared immediately before use.
The first spraying is carried out before bud break, at the beginning of the growth of earrings. The second - upon reaching the leaves standard sizes. The third - 14-15 days after the second spraying. In the fall, after the leaves fall, a “blue” spraying is performed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture.

On a note.
To get 10 liters of a one percent drug, take 100 g blue vitriol and 100 g of quicklime. First, copper sulfate is dissolved in a small amount of hot water and topped up to a volume of 5 liters. In another vessel, lime is quenched by adding water to obtain a creamy mass. In the future, the volume of lime milk is also adjusted to 5 liters.
After that, constantly stirring with a wooden stirrer, a solution of copper sulfate is poured into the prepared milk of lime(but not vice versa). When mixing, both solutions should be cold. A nail dipped into such a solution remains practically unchanged. If the nail is covered with a coating of copper, then the solution is of poor quality and to neutralize it, it is necessary to add milk of lime.
When preparing a 3% Bordeaux liquid, 300 g of copper sulfate and 300 g of quicklime are taken and dissolved in the manner described above, bringing the total volume (of the drug and water) to 10 liters.

Usage
The main product for which the walnut is cultivated is its seed (nuts). Nut kernels have a wonderful taste and high nutritional value. They contain up to 70% of fats, as well as proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins C, B15 B2, K, E, salts of iron, cobalt, potassium, calcium, etc., as well as many trace elements. The kernels are easily absorbed by the body. Especially useful for hypo- and avitaminosis, deficiency of iron and cobalt salts, as a tonic after illness. Oil obtained from walnut kernels contains unsaturated fats that delay the development of sclerosis, as well as linolenic and linoleic acids, which increase the resistance of healthy body tissues against radionuclides.
AT folk medicine infusions and decoctions of leaves and pericarp are used for gastric and gynecological diseases, kidney diseases, tonsillitis, they drink to improve metabolism, with exhaustion, atherosclerosis.

If possible, be sure to plant a walnut tree in your garden, it will delight you long years and will give you energy and health!

Walnut is a light and heat-loving crop, demanding for watering. However, it is successfully grown by amateurs in the Middle lane. A tree can grow for several hundred years, and in order for the plant to take root successfully, you need to take care of it when planting. Prepare a free fertile plot, select winter-hardy variety and take care of protection in frosty winters. Then, in five years, the tree that has gained strength will delight you with a valuable nutritious harvest.

Walnut Varieties for the Middle Band

For Central Russia, cultivars are suitable that are resistant to our Russian winter and will not die in the very first year after planting, freezing to the level of snow cover.

Walnut varieties suitable for central Russia are:

• fruitful,
• dawn of the east,
• Duet,
• Marion,
• Pelan,
• Orion,
• In memory of Professor Veresin (up to 6.2 kg per tree),
• Spectrum,
• Anniversary (up to 9 kg per tree),
• Astakhovsky (up to 35 kg per tree).

• Early-growing, drought-resistant plants, characterized by increased winter hardiness
• It is undesirable to grow them north of the center of Russia.
• The fruits ripen in the second decade of September, one adult nut will give 2.5 buckets of fruits.

• It has sufficient winter hardiness, and in the Middle lane the variety shows itself in all its glory.
• It starts fruiting early, forms fruits already in early September.
• Gives up to 20 kg of delicious nuts.

• His resistance to cold is outstanding.
• It is fast-growing, its plants are medium-sized.
• Nuts ripen at the end of September and give a harvest exceeding 10 kg.

Planting a walnut in the Middle lane

All varieties of walnuts should preferably be planted in spring time required before the start of the growing season. In favorable areas of the Middle Strip (but not to the north), it is possible to plant in the fall, before the onset of frost, providing the tree with sufficient care.

If you decide to plant on the site not a varietal walnut plant, but an ordinary seedling, then be prepared for the fact that a real skyscraper will grow on the site, similar to an oak - with a wide crown, a powerful trunk and a massive root system, although if there is enough space, then this only for the benefit.

Place to land

1. Measure for a nut land that is characterized by medium moisture, air and water permeable and sufficiently nutritious.
2. Landing holes are prepared in advance, 2-3 days before planting.
3. The dimensions of the pit are according to the size of the root system of a particular seedling.
4. On rich soil, you can not bring anything into the hole. On a poor one, it is desirable to add 1.5-2 kg of humus and 15-20 g of potash and phosphorus fertilizers, and if the soil in the area is acidic, then 250-500 g of lime.

And remember that the walnut is an avid hermit. For him, allocate a spacious area where there will be no other plants.
The fact is that its leaves contain a natural herbicide, which is washed out during the rains, enters the soil and destroys any vegetation under the crown of the tree.
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Walnut care in the Middle lane

top dressing

In the first year after planting, as well as in the next few years, the nut will need to be fed.

1. Can be deposited complex fertilizer containing 10 g of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in terms of the active ingredient per 1 m². What kind of fertilizer contains these elements is not so important, but the easiest way is to get ammonium nitrate - there is nitrogen, superphosphate - phosphorus and potassium salt - potassium.
2. Do not forget that fertilizing with nitrogen should be carried out only in spring, and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers can be done twice a season - in spring and in the second half of summer.
3. If the soil is rich on the plot, then forget about nitrogen completely, but phosphorus and potassium can be added.
4. For the maturation of wood in the second year of planting, the introduction of dolomite or lime flour, directly into the trunk circle (200-300 g), will help.

Watering

Watering - weakness walnut.

• Drought usually kills quite a lot of walnuts.
• In June-July, the walnut root system consumes a lot of moisture.
• It is during this period that abundant watering should be carried out. Otherwise, the plants may suffer immediately, which will affect the leaves, shoots and crops, or in the very first winter - they will freeze if weakened.

Always mulch the soil after watering to keep moisture from evaporating too quickly.

Shelter for the winter

Frost control is important in caring for walnuts. After all, this culture is southern, and even the most resistant varieties can suffer in the first winter.

1. Do not be lazy and wrap a freshly planted walnut with agricultural fabric, including its near-trunk strip.
2. Compost or manure can be an alternative to agrofabric in terms of protecting the root system of the walnut (that is, sheltering the near-trunk strip). It must be laid in a near-trunk strip 12 cm thick, while not falling asleep the trunk itself.
3. It is quite possible to use an ordinary spruce spruce branch - just tie it to the trunk and skeletal branches. It does not protect much from the cold, but it will accumulate enough snow.
4. Well, the old way - wrapping in a newspaper. They say that it saves even from frosts below -40 ° C. The main thing is not to hurry with wrapping and wait for the first frosts, otherwise the first rain will soak the newspaper.

Useful properties of walnut

We are all used to seeing nuts in a hard shell, Brown. However, the young "cover" is completely different - light green, fleshy, very dirty hands if you start to destroy it. The color of the skin of the hands will be like from iodine. Over time, the shell darkens, dries, bursts. And the nuts, in our usual clothes, fall to the ground.

Walnut fruits are perfectly stored, and their contents are a whole pantry of useful substances.

• Walnuts contain fats, proteins, carbohydrates, and minerals, among which are the most potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, iron and iodine, as well as tannins, all vitamins and most amino acids.
• Just half a kilo of a walnut will provide you daily requirement calories (there are 4250 of them), so consuming nuts in large quantities, you can get better.
• Walnut should be included in the diet. Together with dried fruits, honey and lemon, you can prepare a healthy vitamin mixture that will support immunity, replenish energy resources and saturate the body with vitamins and microelements.
• Only 1 tbsp. l. walnuts a day will help. They contain taurine, which normalizes blood pressure.
• Also, the inclusion of walnuts in the diet helps the brain and supports vision.

However, the benefits of walnuts refer exclusively to the fruits. But its leaves harm other plants - they are poisonous. Therefore, they need to be collected and burned, without even using ashes.

We all love healthy and tasty walnut kernels. But I would like the fruits to be brought to us not from afar, but to have the opportunity to grow it in central Russia. And now varieties have appeared specifically for growing walnuts in cold climates.

general characteristics

Walnut - deciduous tree with a huge life expectancy (several hundred years). Its height is 25–35 m. The large, wide crown is covered with complex leaves. The trunk is thick, with gray bark, covered with cracks. The plant is monoecious, dioecious, on which male and female flowers are located. Wind pollinated. A fruit covered with a thick, fleshy skin, a false drupe. Below it is a healthy kernel (80% of the weight of the nut), which is eaten.

It is interesting! As a rule, there is little vegetation near the tree. This is due to the fact that the roots secrete a special substance, due to which the growth of other plants is inhibited.

Popular frost-resistant varieties

There are 4 forms of walnut: English or Persian, White, Black, Japanese. All of them are members of the family. Walnut.

As for the varieties, the culture of the walnut is southern, brought from Central Asia. And for a long time it was believed that its habitat is the warm regions of our country. To date, the market already has varieties that are winter-hardy, productive, practically not affected by pests and diseases that can be grown in central Russia and the Moscow region.

• Dessert. Is different early term ripening and nuts with a sweetish taste. The height of the tree is medium. The crown is wide. The culture is drought tolerant. Winter hardiness is average: in the cold, the kidneys can freeze slightly. Fruiting begins in the 4th season.
• Elegant. A short tree (4–5 m) with an oval crown. It is characterized by medium resistance to frost. Nuts ripen in 5 years. Collect them in early autumn.
• Aurora. Early, tall walnut. Fruits appear on the 4th year, with the new season the yield increases. Frost resistant, disease resistant.
• Ideal. Early variety. Well known to Russian gardeners. He is loved for high yield and winter hardiness (withstands up to -35⁰С). Flowers form inflorescences and real grape bunches grow from nuts (up to 15 pieces).

It is important that the walnut has stepped outside its habitats. Low growth, good yield, resistance to frost makes the culture accessible to central Russia.

Landing

The best way to propagate is to get a culture from seeds. In this case, you can be sure what results you will get in the end. Pick up a tree and collect several specimens of fruits from it. A seedling grown from such fruits will be well acclimatized to local conditions.

Attention! To grow a crop, it is worth planting more than one tree. The distance between seedlings is 5 m. Keep in mind that over time the crown will grow. On the slopes, a denser landing is permissible - after 3.5 m.

Walnuts should be planted in sunny, lit places. In relation to soil, the plant is unpretentious. He is "suited" with different types of soils and varied terrain. But do not plant in swampy, sandy and poorly aerated areas. Undesirable proximity to groundwater.

Landing technology next:

1. We plant in the spring, because autumn planting can lead to the death of poorly strengthened seedlings from frost.
2. Landing time - April (more specifically, the time is determined based on the region).
3. The landing pit (50 × 50 cm) is prepared in advance, we fill it with a rich earthen mixture. The composition of the mixture: compost + ash + superphosphate. You can add humus.
4. We straighten the roots, gradually sprinkling them with an earthen mixture. Watering. We compact the soil around the seedling.
5. The root neck is covered with earth by 5 cm.

The first fruits should appear in 4 years.

Care

Walnut - planting and care

The plant is not demanding to care. While it is small, you can grow vegetables between the trees.

Attention! Nitrogen fertilizers must be applied with great care, as they can cause the development of bacterial diseases. At the beginning of the growth of the seedling, you should not make them at all.

Why doesn't the tree bear fruit?

There are times when a walnut does not bear fruit, and there is causes:

1. It is typical for young trees in case of strong thickening of branches. It is necessary to remove excess branches and thin out the crown.
2. Good growth, but no flowering. In this case, they say that "the tree has grown fat." Stop watering and fertilizing. If this does not help, then you need to cut the roots.
3. The walnut blossoms, but does not form ovaries. Take a branch with ripe pollen and shake it over a tree where the formation of an ovary does not occur. That is, pollinate the nut artificially.

reproduction

You can get a new plant seeds, vegetatively, grafting.

Reproduction by seeds

Before planting, the seeds are soaked in water, and then in the Zircon growth preparation for 3 days. They are planted in April, when the soil warms up to 10⁰C in previously prepared fertile soil. Planting depth - 10 cm.

When planting, we do not throw the nut, but set it sideways on the edge. Under " open sky» Growth is slow, seedlings grow much faster in film greenhouses. It is interesting that in their qualities they can surpass the mother plant.

Propagation by vegetative means

Walnut can be propagated by ground shoots that grow in the area of ​​the root collar. Development is much faster than that of seedlings. Fruiting begins already at 3-4 years. If propagated by cuttings, then use the shoots of this year. Landing - the end of April or November.

Reproduction by grafting

As a rootstock, 2-year-old seedlings are used. Vaccination is carried out in March. In the northern regions, seedlings are grown in containers, in December they are left in a warm room. And they vaccinate in February. Disembarkation at open ground produced in May. With this method of reproduction, the qualities of the "mother" plant are completely preserved.

It is important! Seeds must go through a period of stratification (preparation for sowing). This will take from 2 to 3 months (depending on the thickness of the shell), all this time the nuts will spend in wet sand in a cool place. A month before planting, the nuts are transferred to heat, where they are kept in water and growth stimulants.

Pests and diseases: control measures

Compared to other trees, walnuts are less likely to be affected by pests and diseases. But nevertheless, some "friends of the garden" visit it:

• American white butterfly. During the summer it gives three generations, and the third is the most harmful. Butterfly caterpillars, having settled on the leaves, gradually move throughout the tree. To combat them, you can use microbiological preparations or insecticides.
• Apple or walnut codling moth brings 2 generations. Caterpillars crawl inside the nut, eating out its contents. Infected nuts fall off. The method of struggle is pheromone traps that attract males. Reproduction is reduced, caterpillars become smaller. They are treated with viral preparations that cause caterpillar disease and their death. The mechanical method is also used: the collection of caterpillars and affected fruits by hand.
• Aphid settles on young shoots and buds, forms colonies on the inner leaf surface. Chemicals are used for destruction.
• sapwood- a beetle that settles under the bark, so it is difficult to detect it. Gnawing the bark on a tree, it leaves behind curved channels. Beetles settle on weak plants, cause an abundant flow of juice. During the summer, 2 generations are formed. Control measures: spraying with insecticides. Prevention - sanitary felling of damaged branches.

A tree can also become ill for physiological reasons: poor soil, lack of light, excess moisture, spring frosts, poor care.

Most often, the walnut is struck, bacterial burn, bacteriosis, root cancer.

How to cover a walnut for the winter?

We received winter-hardy varieties, but winters are not snowy and cold, and the tree needs shelter.

Even before frost, you need to wrap the root collar, trunk and skeletal branches with covering material. You can insulate with agrofibre, burlap, roofing felt, linoleum. The base can be covered with spruce branches and coniferous branches. This will protect the tree from severe frosts and winds. In spring, the tree will be healthy and ready to bear fruit.

It is important! When the snow falls, they need to throw a walnut up to the skeletal branches, covering the entire trunk. Throw spruce branches on top. So the tree will better endure the winter. In addition, the root system will not be affected.

Beneficial features

Useful properties are obvious, since the fruit contains:

• Vitamin E"solves problems" of the cardiovascular system, lowers blood pressure;
• Antioxidants rejuvenate, reduce the risk of cancer;
• Potassium important in metabolic processes;
• Cellulose plays a role in intestinal peristalsis, weight loss, obesity prevention.
• cobalt, iron, zinc increase hemoglobin levels, preventing anemia.

In addition, walnut increases potency in men, has a general tonic effect, and has a positive effect on brain function due to its high protein content. The calorie content of the fetus is 653 kcal / 100 g.

Attention! The product is high in calories, consume it in moderation. To maintain health and well-being, it is enough to eat 7 nut kernels per day.

Harvesting

Green (unripe) nuts have a soft core and skin. The collection of such fruits is carried out in May. They are pierced with a needle and, if juice flows out of the hole, collection can begin. The fact is that unripe fruits are very useful, they are rich in many substances and are widely used in traditional medicine. In cooking, compotes, marinades, jams are prepared from them.

Video about planting a walnut and caring for it

Now, with the advent of frost-resistant varieties of walnuts, every gardener can grow this very useful and tasty nut on his plot. Use the information from our article and you will succeed!

A powerful spreading tree, reaching a height of 25 meters, with healthy and tasty fruits that ripen every autumn, is a walnut. Proper cultivation cultivars of walnut helps not only to get an annual bountiful harvest, but also to increase the nutritional value of the fruit. This article will tell you about the correct planting, proper care and methods for propagating walnuts in the Moscow region.

Walnut: cultivars and varieties

On the territory of Russia, the walnut, brought by merchants from Greece, has been cultivated for more than 1000 years. The culture is highly valued for its healthy and tasty nuts, valuable wood and leaves, which are used to make medicinal potions.

The walnut is usually cultivated in the southern regions, in central Russia the culture often freezes out in cold winters, sometimes the plant does not even reach the age of fruiting.

Walnut is one of the most popular types of nuts in our country.

Breeders are working purposefully to create varieties of walnuts that are ideal for cold winters, suitable for successful cultivation in the middle lane and Moscow region.

• "Sadko" - dwarf variety, which perfectly tolerates frosty winters without frostbite of the trunk and crown. The variety grows steadily, bears fruit abundantly, producing thin-skinned and large nuts. The tree enters the fruiting phase in the 3rd year, the height is from 4 to 5 meters.

Variety "Sadko"

• "Ideal" - the popularity of this variety among gardeners is very high, due to the high resistance of the tree to frost and early fruiting - the nut can withstand winter temperatures up to -35 degrees, and begins to bear fruit from the 2nd year of life. For normal development, a tree needs space and sunlight. It is not recommended to plant the "Ideal" variety near existing buildings - a powerful root system can damage the foundation of the building. In height, the "Ideal" walnut reaches up to 5 meters. Fruits 2 times a year.

Variety "Ideal"

• "Podmoskovye" - the variety is frost-resistant and has an early harvest of large nuts.

Sort "Podmoskovye"

• "Giant" - the variety is similar to "Ideal", but begins to bear fruit at 5-6 years of age. From one tree you can collect up to one centner of nuts.

Variety "Giant"

• "Productive" - ​​a winter-hardy tree, resistant to diseases, reaches a height of 6 m. It enters the fruiting phase in the 4th year. bountiful harvest can be filmed in the second half of September. The average yield of nuts from one tree is about 25 kg.
• More recently, breeders have bred new variety walnut - "Astakhovsky", characterized by high winter hardiness, resistance to pests and diseases. The crown of the tree is perfectly restored after freezing, the plant is able to endure winter temperatures down to -37 degrees. The fruits of the new variety are larger than those of the "Ideal" variety. Fruiting occurs in the 6th year.

Proper planting of walnuts is the key to a bountiful harvest

The walnut differs in the overall dimensions of the crown, so for planting a tree, you should choose a spacious, open place on the sunny side. Maximum solar lighting directly affects the formation and quality of the crop.

The root system of the tree is quite powerful, lies deep in the soil, so it is important to choose a site for planting without closely lying groundwater. The plant does not develop well in low, swampy areas.

Walnut - Pretty large tree so give it plenty of space

An adult walnut tree is able to grow a crown with a diameter of more than 10 m, therefore, when planting several trees side by side, sufficient distances between seedlings should be immediately provided (at least 5 meters).

When planting seedlings, the depth of the planting pit should be at least 80 cm, the width of the pit along the top should be from 40 cm. Organic and mineral fertilizers (rotted manure, sand, ash, double superphosphate) are added to the bottom of the pit.

Advice! To accelerate the development of lateral roots in a walnut seedling, a layer of PVC film can be laid on the bottom of the planting hole.

walnut care

Walnut is a moisture-loving crop, the tree requires irrigation of the crown in extreme heat, regular watering and maintaining moisture in the soil. To reduce the evaporation of water from the soil, it is useful to mulch the soil in the trunk circle with peat or sawdust.

To increase the aeration of the roots, loosening the soil is required several times a season. Simultaneously with loosening, overgrown weeds can be removed.

Watering, loosening the soil - basic walnut care

In autumn, the soil under the tree needs to be dug up to the depth of one bayonet of a shovel.

Pruning a walnut in the first years of life helps to form a strong tree crown, in which up to 7 main branches are left. At an older age, the nut needs sanitary pruning and removal of damaged shoots. It is necessary to cut out the branches of the nut that grow deep into the crown.

Old trees are subjected to rejuvenating pruning every summer, then until autumn the wounds heal on the nut and the winter cold cannot harm the plant.

Walnut nutrition - how to choose the right fertilizer

Walnut responds very quickly to top dressing nutrients- the tree is dressed with elegant foliage (you can admire the photo), the fruits are different the best taste and sizes. For the harmonious development of the plant, fertilizers should be applied in accordance with the scheme:

1. Spring - nitrogen fertilizers are used to feed walnut trees.
2. Autumn - plants are fed mineral compositions by applying phosphorus and potash fertilizers.

You can feed a walnut twice a season

Nut propagation

There are usually two ways to propagate walnuts:

1. Sowing seeds.
2. Budding.

When sowing crops seeds, you should first select large, intact, full-weight nuts of the variety you like.

Advice! Harvesting nuts for sowing is carried out at a time when the outer green shell bursts.

The collected fruits must be dried and pre-stratified. The temperature regime during the stratification of thin-skinned and thick-skinned varieties has differences:

• Thin-barked varieties are stratified for 45 days at t +18 C.
• Thick-skinned nuts - 100 days at t about +7 C.

Planting a nut from seed

It is allowed to plant walnut seeds in the ground in early April, in well-heated soil, which is previously dug up, loosened and spilled with water.

Advice! It is allowed to add wood ash to the bottom of the furrow for planting nuts.

Planting depth of large nuts is 10 cm, small ones - 7 cm. Seeds of nuts can be planted in autumn. At autumn planting stronger seedlings are formed.

Advice! To get a perfectly straight trunk from a seedling, it is necessary to lay the nuts in the furrow sideways, on the edge.

Reproduction of a walnut vaccination more troublesome way. It justifies itself when propagating especially valuable varieties. The stock for grafting is specially grown two-year-old seedlings, which are planted in separate pots. In early February, you can start vaccinating. For a positive result, you must have special skills and have some experience in performing budding.

walnut sapling

Diseases and pests of walnut

The walnut tree is damaged by many pests and diseases. Especially often black spots appear on the leaves, which cause fungal diseases"brown spotting" and "bacteriosis". Settling on green branches and leaves of walnut shoots, the fungus infects living tissues, causing their necrosis. The leaves of the plant die off and fall off along with the ovaries. If preventive treatment against a fungal infection is not carried out, the plant may die.

Seriously harming walnut plantings is a white American butterfly, which is activated twice a season - in early summer and autumn.

Spotting on walnut leaves

The apple codling moth eats away the pulp of young nuts, destroying the future crop.

The mining moth in the caterpillar stage, settling inside the leaf, gnaws passages in the soft tissues of the leaf blade, and the adult moth sucks the juices from mature leaves, folding them into a cocoon.

Timely treatment of trees with systemic preparations helps to get rid of pests.

The birthplace of the walnut is Central Asia. So why is he "Greek"? Because this type of nuts was brought to us by Greek traders almost 1000 years ago, who brought their goods "from the Varangians to the Greeks."
It is believed that the conditions for growing walnuts are ideal in the south of Russia, in the Crimea, the Caucasus and Ukraine.

Walnuts are very tasty, being a raw material for confectionery, they are very beneficial for human health, and wood is the most valuable raw material for the furniture industry.

For planting a walnut, you need to choose a place very carefully.

The tree should receive enough light from all sides. Only in this case will he form a beautiful, sprawling crown. If there is a need to plant several walnut trees, the planting interval should be 5 m.

See also: Superphosphate: fertilizer application

Soil selection and planting seedlings

When choosing a place for planting a nut, it must be taken into account that stagnant groundwater is harmful to it, it does not tolerate swampy and very dense soil. The best option slightly moist loamy soil is considered.

Before planting a nut, it is very important to properly prepare the soil, especially if the fertile layer is thin. Manure mixed with ash and superphosphate must be added to the soil. The ratio of these components is as follows - ½ superphosphate + 2 cups wood ash for 1 bucket of manure or humus.

To plant a nut, you need to dig a hole, the depth of which is about 80 cm, the length and width are 40 cm. The bottom of the hole is lined with plastic wrap. After that, the roots are carefully laid out on the film in a horizontal direction and sprinkled with improved soil.

As the tree grows, it is necessary to improve the soil around the tree every year along the width of the crown.

Growing methods

Seedlings can be grown in two ways:

Each of these methods is worth considering.

seeds

To obtain high-quality seedlings, it is important to choose the right nuts. Your choice is best settled on those varieties that grow and bear fruit well in the area.

We start harvesting nuts for planting from the moment when the green shells of the fruit begin to crack. We choose large fruits, without flaws. The shell should not be very hard, making it easy to remove the core. The selected fruits are dried in a dry room at room temperature.

Conditions for growing walnuts from seeds

For better germination, walnut fruits are stratified at a temperature of 0-5 degrees for 100 days, placing them in the refrigerator. For nuts with a thin shell, the stratification regime lasts 45 days at a temperature of about 18 degrees.

When the soil warms up to 10 degrees, it may be in mid-April, walnut seeds can be planted. Pre-prepare light loamy soil. Planting depth - 8-11 cm. The larger the nut, the deeper the hole. The fruit is placed sideways, on the edge.

Walnut grows slowly. Only for 5-7 years, seedlings can already be planted in a permanent place. For rootstocks, seedlings can be taken after 3 years.

If you plant seedlings in a greenhouse, the material for rootstocks can be used as early as next year, and seedlings for planting in a permanent place - after two years.

Inoculation

For rootstocks, seedlings are grown in small pots in a greenhouse. At the age of two, they can be vaccinated. Seedlings intended for grafting in the month of December must be brought into a room in which the temperature is 10-15 degrees. This will help strengthen the shoots. The best time for this procedure - February or the first half of March.

After grafting, the seedlings are transferred to a room where the temperature is 22-25 degrees. They are planted in the ground in mid-May, when stable warm weather is established.
How to take care of a walnut

In order for a nut to bear fruit well, it is necessary to properly care for it. Care includes: watering, fertilizing, pruning.

Read also: How to treat cucumbers with whey

How to water

Seedlings and young trees need regular and plentiful watering, as their intensive development requires a lot of water. Under each tree, it is necessary to pour 2-3 buckets of water once every two weeks. If spring and summer are dry, water more often.

Mature trees that have reached a height of 3-4 m are watered only during a drought. To save moisture, the root circle under the walnut is mulched with peat or straw.

top dressing

The walnut needs top dressing twice a year - in the spring, as soon as the snow melts, and in the fall.

The tree is fed with nitrogen fertilizers in the spring, and potassium-phosphorus - in the fall.

Nitrogen fertilizers must be used carefully, they can create favorable conditions for the development of pathogenic bacteria harmful to young seedlings. In the spring, you can make a walnut a small amount of rotted manure, and in the fall - chicken manure. Fertilizers are applied carefully, without loosening the earth, so as not to damage the root system.

pruning

A walnut is a tree that forms a crown on its own. However, if there is a need to correct it, pruning cannot be done in the spring. It is better to transfer this procedure to June-July.

Growing a walnut in the garden and caring for it taking into account the climate

If you need to remove a large branch, pruning is done in two stages. First, part of the branch is removed, leaving a long knot. The next year, this knot is removed from the tree, which has had time to dry, and grease the cut with garden pitch.

Such easy care behind the tree will allow you to collect bountiful harvest nuts.

By applying fertilizers to the soil during the cultivation of walnuts, an increase in growth, an increase in fruiting and an increase in the overall stability of the walnut tree are pursued.

The use of fertilizers to enhance the growth of walnuts is not always necessary. By their own biological properties he has rapid growth and therefore does not require additional stimulation. For its culture, areas with sufficiently fertile soil are usually chosen, where fertilizers are not needed in the first years of plant life. Thus, it is possible to use fertilizers to enhance the growth of walnuts only under very limited conditions, for example, when growing it on poor, infertile soils (sandy slopes with heavily washed away soils, etc.).

Increasing the growth of walnuts by applying fertilizers on sufficiently fertile soils can lead to undesirable consequences. Excessive growth of shoots will cause a prolonged vegetation, their wood will not mature in a timely manner and the plant will be killed by winter cold. This danger of reducing the winter hardiness of the walnut must be taken into account when fertilizing. AT.

Walnut cultivation and care

M. Rovsky (1970) emphasized the need to use fertilizers to increase the growth of walnuts in nurseries only on insufficiently fertile soils (serozems, etc.).

Fertilization of walnut in gardens in order to enhance the fruiting of its trees is necessary and has long been used. N.I. Kichunov mentioned this in our country in 1931.

A. A. Richter suggested for young walnut orchards of the Crimean region. in the first 10 years after planting, annually apply the following fertilizers on nutrient-poor soils per 1 m 2 of garden area, g: ammonium sulfate 60, ammonium nitrate 35, superphosphate 80, potassium salt 15. In the absence of mineral fertilizers, it should be applied on the same an area of ​​​​3-4 kg of manure, and with the joint application of mineral and organic fertilizers, the norms of both are reduced by half. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in spring, the rest in autumn, to a depth of 30 cm.

P. P. Dorofeev for the conditions of Moldova advises to apply fertilizers in walnut orchards growing on infertile soils, in the following amount per 1 hectare of area, c: ammonium sulfate 3, superphosphate 2 and potassium salt 1. In the absence of mineral fertilizers, semi-rotten manure in the amount of 30 t/ha.

In experiments on fertilizing fruit-bearing walnut trees in Gorny Bostandyk (Uzbekistan), before the start of the growing season, 1.5 kg of ammonium nitrate at the rate of 50 kg/ha of pure nitrogen was applied under each tree, and in October - November 4 kg of superphosphate at the rate of 75-80 kg /ha of phosphoric acid. Fertilizers were applied for 3 years - from 1964 to 1967. Already a year after fertilization, fruiting began to increase. Initially, the yield on the fertilized plots exceeded the control by 4-5 times, and in 1967 even more than 10 times. The average fruit weight also increased under the influence of fertilizers (Butkov and Talipov, 1970).

Studies have also shown that the addition of ammonium sulfate, as well as superphosphate and potassium salt, reduces the susceptibility of walnut fruits to the codling moth.

A. Tkhagushev (1970), in the Black Sea regions of the Krasnodar Territory, it is necessary to apply a full mineral fertilizer of 1200 kg / ha of a. w. under the fruit-bearing walnut garden. or 1 t/ha manure and 60 kg/ha a.i. NPK. The same amount of NPK is necessary in the conditions of the Kuban fruit zone.

According to A.K. Kairov, in Kabardino-Balkaria the main walnut fertilizer is applied under autumn plowing. Manure is given once every 4 years at 20 t/ha. Superphosphate and potassium salt are applied annually, respectively, 5-8 and 1-1.5 c/ha. For top dressing, ammonium nitrate is used at the rate of 1-1.5 c/ha during the second cultivation.

Walnut seedlings in nurseries need fertilizer. The use of nitrogen and phosphorus at 60 kg/ha increases the growth of seedlings, the yield of large-sized planting material, and improves the water regime.

In Bulgaria, when creating a walnut garden for deep plowing (30-40 cm), pits are dug for trees every 12 m, 0.6X0.6X0.6 m in size, with shallower plowing, the size of the pits is larger, 1X1X0. upper layer soil and a mixture of 15 kg of well-rotted manure, 300 kg of superphosphate and 80 kg of potash fertilizer is added to it based on an area of ​​0.1 ha. In the school branches of the nursery in Bulgaria, the soil is fertilized (20-30 t / ha of manure, 6 quintals of superphosphate and 2 quintals / ha of potash fertilizer), hilled at least 5 times, 2 times a summer they fertilize with ammonium nitrate (50 kg each time) and regularly watered (Bonev, 1967).

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Walnut grows well and bears fruit in our region. And it seems that there is no trouble with him. Unless you choose a suitable variety - large-fruited and thin-skinned. But in order to keep a tree healthy for a long time (and a nut lives for about 300 years!), You need to take care of it.

Firstly, dry, damaged and thickening branches are cut out from an adult tree, and the elongated shoots are shortened. But they do it not in autumn or spring, as in fruit trees, and in the second half of summer.

At this time, the leaves of the nut are well developed and the roots work intensively, which will help it quickly restore the loss of juice and heal the cuts.

Secondly, many believe that the nut does not get sick and does not have pests. Unfortunately, over the years it often happens that the fruits fall off prematurely, and most of them are empty or rotten. The reason is plant diseases and pests.

Proper walnut care

The most harmful diseases of the walnut are bacteriosis, brown spot.

Bacteriosis is the most common walnut disease. There are practically no varieties resistant to this disease. The disease affects all above-ground organs of the tree: buds, leaves and their cuttings, male and female flowers, one- and two-year-old branches, shoot growth points, fruits on different stages their development. On non-lignified shoots, as well as on leaves, elongated brown spots form due to the disease. In rainy weather, the shoots dry out and bend. The infection overwinters on the bark of diseased branches. In spring, it penetrates into the leaves through stomata, and into other organs of the tree through mechanical damage. Large doses nitrogen fertilizers in plantings enhance the development of the disease. Varieties with thin-skinned nuts are more vulnerable to disease compared to thick-skinned ones.

Brown spot, or anthracnose, walnut affects leaves, shoots, fruits. Numerous spots of rounded or irregular shape appear on the leaves. This usually occurs in early or mid-July. In the years since high humidity air, these spots grow very strongly, the leaves dry out prematurely and fall off. On the shoots, small spots first form, sometimes ulcers, the shoot is bent. Damaged fruits remain underdeveloped. AT young age they fall off, in a later period they remain hanging, because of the spots they have irregular shape. In damaged fruits, the skin of the kernel becomes dark.

Now, in autumn, measures to combat bacteriosis, anthracnose and the main walnut pests (nut moth, aphid, tick, codling moth) are the same: collection and burning of leaves, damaged fruit branches and residues.

Thirdly, like all fruit-bearing trees, walnuts need to be fed. If the recommended organic and mineral fertilizers were added when planting seedlings, then the nut will be provided with the necessary substances for the next 3-5 years. Subsequently, organic (3-6 kg of rotted manure or humus), phosphorus (5-10 g) and potash fertilizers (3-8 g) are applied (per 1 sq.m.) once every 2-3 years in the fall, planting them in soil (usually in grooves along the perimeter of the crown) to a depth of 10-20 cm. Nitrogen (10-15 g) - annually in the second half of April in the form of a solution or dry to a depth of 3-4 cm. trace elements (boron, manganese, magnesium, etc.). Especially if signs of their lack in the soil are noticeable - the death of the ovaries, yellow spots on the leaves, weakening of growth, etc. The doses are the same as for other fruit trees.