Where is the best place to plant walnuts? Walnut - planting and growing

Many gardeners dream of planting a walnut on their plot, but most refuse this idea right away, fearing difficulties. In fact, it is quite possible to grow a nut, and even beginner gardeners can do this task.

How to plant a walnut correctly - the basics of agricultural technology with seedlings

There are two options for planting a walnut: seedlings and seeds (nuts). Let's consider each of the options in more detail:

• seedlings.

In order to plant a tree in your area, you need to get a seedling. It can be purchased at specialized points of sale or you can take a young shoot of a plant from friends. If you buy a seedling, then pay attention, firstly, to the bark - it must be without damage. Second, take a look at the root system - the main root should be intact. Only a strong two-three-year-old seedling, with a trunk thickness of at least 1 cm, is able to quickly take root and avoid various diseases.

As for the landing time, there is no consensus here. Some gardeners argue that planting should be done only in the fall, since at this time the sap flow slows down in the tree, and therefore it is easier for even a weak seedling with bark disorders to take root and avoid infection. Other gardeners believe that planting a walnut in the spring is the only correct option. Moreover, planting work must be carried out in early spring, before the buds swell. Since there is no consensus, it is worth focusing on the climatic zone in which the site is located. So, due to the warm climate, even in winter, it is better for residents of the southern regions to plant seedlings in autumn, for residents of the northern regions it is better to do planting work in early spring - a young tree planted for the winter may not endure severe frosts and die. The inhabitants of the middle lane are the best of all, since they can plant seedlings both in early spring and late autumn: in this case, a young tree has an equal chance to take root and grow.

Planting a seedling is carried out as follows: in the chosen place, holes are prepared with a depth of about 50-60 cm, with a diameter of 1 m. Potash and phosphate fertilizers, humus, lime are laid in the pits, after which the future tree is placed in them so that its root collar is 3-5 cm above the ground. The hole is covered with earth, which must be tightly tamped around the plant, and then carry out abundant watering.

Growing walnuts from seeds

Planting a walnut with seeds is more laborious, but interesting in terms of at least a country experiment. First you need to choose planting material. For planting, we select only high-quality nuts, the shell of which is neither too soft nor too hard. In addition, the shell should not be damaged, and the nuts themselves should be large enough.

It is curious that opinions on the preparation of nuts for planting vary quite a lot - some believe that in order to ensure germination it is necessary to remove the outer shell, while others are sure that nuts should be planted only in their original form. Alas, the long-standing dispute has not yet been put to an end, therefore, if you are planting a walnut for the first time, you can use both methods. The only condition that is equally suitable for both methods is the choice of seeds. The easiest way to do this is by placing the nuts in a container of water. Some of the seeds will go under water, some will remain on the surface. And despite the fact that both are suitable for planting, sunken seeds have a much higher chance of germinating, since they have a solid and large core. By the way, this method is perfect for selecting peeled seeds, but it must be used only if the shell is not damaged.

Then you can go one of two ways: the first is to plant the selected material in pots or special containers, and in a couple of years, with proper care, you will have an excellent seedling ready for transplanting into open ground. The second option is to plant prepared nuts immediately in open ground.

When planting a nut in pots, the following must be done: 4 months before planting, it is necessary to place the nut in wet sand and make sure that the environment in which the planting material is placed does not dry out, but is not too wet either.

A container with sand and nuts planted in it must be placed in a cool place. Ideally, if this is the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, or you can use the basement or, in the end, the balcony.

Thus, the nuts undergo stratification, which improves their germination, and later the fruiting of the tree. When it's time to plant a nut, you need to get it out and place it in a pot with prepared fertile soil, deepening it by 4-5 cm. The plant does not require specific care, within two years it is necessary to carry out timely watering, loosening the soil, and removing weeds.

On the question of how to plant a walnut in open ground in the middle lane, all gardeners agree that if you place the seeds to a depth equal to their greater length, then they will simply not survive not only winter, but even spring frosts (if landing for some reason is done in the spring).

The deepening of nuts is carried out to a depth of 1/2 - 2/3 of a spade bayonet, since this is the only way to protect it from extreme exposure to low temperatures. And only in the southern regions the rule of choosing the planting depth for a large seed length is relevant. But in the northern latitudes, planting in the autumn is out of the question, and you will have to deal with germination at home.

When planting in open ground, the seeds are placed three at a time, with a distance between them of 12-15 cm. In this way, the best germination can be ensured, but if all three sprout, then after two years you will have to choose one, the strongest seedling, and the rest either deposited in other places, or removed altogether.

Soil preparation

Of course, you can’t sow seeds anywhere, since good germination, confident growth and fruiting seriously depend on how correctly the place was chosen and how well it was prepared.

First of all, it should be remembered that this plant is thermophilic, and therefore you will have to choose the land from well-insolated places in the backyard. In addition, the walnut does not tolerate crowding, because there should not be tall trees and shrubs around the future tree (like pears, apple trees, overgrown cherries), but small shrubs (currants, raspberries, gooseberries) within a radius of at least three meters may already be present . Walnut planting interval - at least 10 meters.

Soil preparation is quite simple, but prolonged. It begins in late spring with a deepening of the fertile layer - the soil is removed to a depth of 0.7-1 m and a width of 0.5 m. A fertile soil layer taken from the same area is poured into the resulting pit. Further, throughout the entire time until late, the planting site is loosened to improve aeration and remove weeds.

Finally, it should be said that even with careful observance of all conditions and rules, the taste and abundance of the harvest on a new tree can seriously differ from the mother tree, both for better and for worse, and even seedlings grafted in nurseries are not a guarantee of tasty and large walnuts. . However, even if the fruits disappoint you, the tree itself will become an excellent decoration of the site, besides, from its seeds it will be possible to make attempts to achieve your goal again and again.

» Walnut

Usually it is a huge, by our standards, tree up to 25 meters it has a very indirect relation to Greece: the fruits were brought from the south, and "everything is in Greece." Surely, it also grows there, wild forms of this tree are common in Europe.

The tree looks impressive. A separately growing nut not only differs in height - its crown also reaches a diameter of 20 meters.

By European standards, it is a long-liver (second after oak)- specimens of 300-400-year-old trees are often found.

The development of a tree begins with the formation of a powerful tap root, which reaches 1.5 meters deep in the 5th year and 3.5 meters by the age of 20.

Horizontal ones do not grow immediately - they are formed after the rod, located in the surface layer of the soil at a depth of 20-50 centimeters.

The tree begins to bear fruit after 10 years of life., and from the age of 30-40, the time of full fruiting comes.

If the trees grow in groups, partially shading each other, they rarely produce more than 30 kg of yield, while a free-growing nut can produce up to 400 kg of nuts.

But such cases are rare, only a tree 150-170 years old is capable of such a harvest. Usually an adult tree 25-40 years old in Moldova gives 1500-2000 fruits or 2000-2500 in the Crimea.

Moscow region, central Russia - where else can you plant and grow walnuts

They are found in the European part from the foothills of the Caucasus to St. Petersburg where the northernmost nuts in Russia grow. But these are isolated cases, exceptions that only confirm the rule.

These trees do not freeze completely, but they do not grow to their full potential either.

The main factor determining the possibility of growing this southern tree is not at all the winter sub-zero temperature. The sum of average daily temperatures above 10 degrees is taken into account. It cannot be less than 190 C.

If in winter the temperature does not drop below -36 degrees and for 130-140 days a year the temperature is above 0 C, the walnut can grow and bear fruit.

The best winter hardiness was shown by hybrids of Manchurian with walnut.

When planting even the best seed material brought from the south, adaptation to a cold climate does not occur - such trees regularly freeze slightly and practically do not bear fruit.

Completely unsuitable for growing varieties from places with a humid warm climate(west and south of Ukraine, the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus).

Only nuts from eastern Ukraine, the mountains of Central Asia or the Caucasus successfully adapt to the new conditions of central Russia.

Moreover, it is better to grow a nut from the stone yourself- An imported seedling (even from the indicated regions) will be significantly inferior in terms of endurance and adaptability to new conditions.

How and when to plant and grow a tree from a seedling: conditions

It must be immediately planted in a permanent place.. It is unrealistic to transplant a 5-year-old tree already. Therefore, you need to decide to take into account all the factors and calculate the consequences.

A vigorous tree can form a dense shade over an area of ​​approximately 100 sq.m. You will have to delete this area from circulation - there is little that can bear fruit under a walnut(affects the strong overwhelming effect of the biofield of a huge tree).

On the other hand, it is possible to arrange a summer recreation area on this square - walnut essential oils keep flies and mosquitoes away.

We choose a place for planting on the edge of the garden so as not to shade other trees. The walnut is very unpretentious to soils, although it prefers loose sandy-stony soil.

The landing hole is dug with the expectation that under the roots there is a layer of stones of at least 25 centimeters.

The bottom of the landing pit must be half filled with construction debris.(broken brick, pieces of cement, crushed stone) - this technique allows you to shift the flowering time of the tree by 1-2 weeks (the stones warm up slowly, the nut starts growing a little later, skipping the frost period).

Half a bucket of ash, compost or humus is brought into the pit. The soil should not be too fertile, the nut will grow intensively and will not have time to prepare for winter.

You need to take a seedling for planting only from a trusted seller, otherwise you won’t get anything except frostbitten branches of a southern tree, you probably won’t wait for the harvest.

A walnut tree is planted only in the spring, it enters a dormant period too early and will not have time to take root before winter.

It is believed that a walnut planted by hand from a bone will grow into a tree practically adapted to new conditions, which will develop successfully.

Seeds are planted in autumn directly into the ground to a depth of 7-10 cm.. It is advisable to lay sideways on the seam in the soil. Spring planting requires 2-3 months of stratification in wet sand.

Special care for seedlings is not required - in the middle lane even walnuts have no pests.

How to plant an annual walnut seedling:

Care after planting: spring, summer and autumn

How to care? Walnuts may only need watering in spring and early summer. when there is an intensive growth of green mass. Usually the tree has enough soil reserve of winter moisture.

Water only young trees up to 5-7 years old, if it is completely dry.

The tap root system of the southern tree is adapted to find water in the lower horizons. After 10 years of age, watering the walnut should generally be forgotten.

For him, excess moisture threatens too active growth., to the detriment of maturation and preparation of wood for winter. Freezing after a wet summer is guaranteed.

In addition to stopping watering, care must be taken to prepare the root system for winter. So, trunk circles must be mulched with any organic matter or compost:

• in summer - to preserve moisture;
• in autumn - to protect the topsoil from freezing.

In particularly cold areas, the soil is mulched with a layer of at least 10 cm, especially in areas with little snow.

It is useful to cover the trunk up to a height of about 1 m with spruce branches or wrap it with newspapers in several layers (already after the first frosts). This will help to survive -40 degrees and below.

Such shelter is necessary only in the first years. The tree must be hardened naturally.

How to properly care during the growing process: before ripening and after

Like all fruit crops, walnuts need periodic feeding.

In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, in the second half of summer - only potash and phosphorus, which are responsible for preparing the tree for winter and laying the fruit buds of the next crop.

On cultivated soil, nitrogen can not be fed at all, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers can be applied (in terms of the active substance) at 10 g / sq.m.

Practice shows that the rule applies to all cases where the nut does not grow on obvious stones and clay.

What is especially pleasing - in the middle lane, the walnut has no natural enemies. It has already been said that flies and mosquitoes fly around it.

Moreover, walnut leaves can be used to prepare a very effective remedy against aphids and various caterpillars, which is successfully used in Ukraine.

Completely harmless home remedy allows you to process trees and bushes with ovaries of fruits and berries.

Graft

Unfortunately, walnut cuttings do not take root - reproduction occurs only by seeds.

Vaccination is carried out in cases where:

• there is a seedling of probably winter-hardy Manchurian walnut, for which -40 in winter is not a problem;
• the planted variety did not live up to expectations - it became possible to re-graft it.

One-year-old seedlings are grafted into a split and, under control, grow in a greenhouse to a marketable appearance.

Young trees that have already produced their first few nuts can be re-grafted by the type of "eye budding"- only the bark is removed with a kidney in the form of a half-pipe (the method is called so) and combined with the same cutout on the rootstock.

Until complete healing, the vaccination site is tied with a film.

The result of grafting an adult walnut tree:

Reproduction in the country

The main method of obtaining seedlings is growing from seeds.. To simplify the process, nuts are planted without additional processing in the fall to a depth of about 10 centimeters. It is believed that it is better to lay them sideways on the seam.

Whoever did not have time to bury for the winter, put it in damp sand in the basement - the nut must pass the stratification, otherwise it will not hatch.

Walnut is renewed by stump shoots in just a year or two. These trees are able to bear fruit literally in the second year, and in 10 - already a significant harvest.

It turns out that a walnut can be successfully planted and grown in a country house in the middle lane, in the Moscow region. It is enough to follow simple rules:

• the right choice of location;
• seedling - only zoned;
• mandatory mulching of the trunk circle;
• shelter trunk from frost in the first years of life.

All this is within the power of most gardeners.. Choose a sunny location, protected from cold winds - the nut will thank you.

Walnut transplantation is usually carried out in the spring, since this is the most optimal period for these plants. Only with proper planting can you get a good fruit tree in 7-8 years. If a nut is planted anyhow, then it may not be accepted at all or it will grow very poorly and begin to bear fruit late. Therefore, it is very important to know how to properly transplant a walnut to a permanent place.

Correct planting of a walnut

The correct planting of a walnut depends on:

• the beginning of the fruiting of the tree;
• growth rate;
• winter hardiness;
• life expectancy;
• productivity;
• disease resistance.

The sequence of planting a walnut in the spring

Walnuts need to be transplanted, following a certain sequence of actions:

1. First of all, you need to dig a hole in the form of a cube with edges measuring from 60 centimeters. The bigger the hole, the better for the plant. All the earth removed from the pit must be evenly spread around the pit, thus forming a watering can. The earth around the pit was poured, it should remain there after planting the nut, and the pit should be filled with other soil taken from a third-party place. At the same time, the walls and pits should not be rammed so that the root can grow freely.
2. If you want the planted walnut to begin to bear fruit earlier and have a wide-brimmed crown, then you need to put a flat stone on the bottom in the middle of the pit, which will not allow the central roots to grow in depth.
3. At the bottom, in the middle, of the pit, you need to pour a bunch of ash and ammophos (1-3 kg). After that, the fertilizer should be sprinkled with a 20 cm layer of soil. This is done so that the fertilizer in the formed coma is gradually consumed by the tree over 8-10 years. Further, 20-30 kilograms of humus are poured into the pit.
4. When the hole is prepared, a 1 or 2 year old walnut seedling can be planted. It must be planted so that the grafting level is at the level of the soil around the pit.
5. Before planting, you need to cut the central tap root of the seedling by a third. This is done so that the peripheral roots develop, and not the central ones, which will contribute to the development of an extensive root system and crown.
6. When the level of planting a seedling is determined, then you need to sprinkle the roots with fertile soil from the outside.
7. When the root system is completely covered up to the place of inoculation, then you need to take hold of the tree trunk and move it uphill and to the sides. This is done so that there are no voids around the roots, and the soil is better adjacent to them.
8. When the hole is filled with soil, it should be well tamped to compact the soil around the roots.
9. After that, from 5 to 10 kilograms of fresh manure should be poured around the trunk. It is desirable that the manure was 50% straw. Thus, the manure will act as a mulch, which will protect the root system from drying out and heating in the summer and from freezing in the winter.
10. Next, be sure to water the planted walnut abundantly. In this case, you need to use 100-200 liters of water, it is desirable that the water contains a minimum of mineral salts. With such abundant watering, the soil will sag a little and be well rammed, while the manure particles will be washed out and get to the root system. Thus, the nut will take root well in a new place and will grow rapidly.
11. When all the procedures are completed, at the nut, on the side where the wind blows the most, you need to hammer in a strong stake. After that, you need to tie the nut to the stake in two places. You need to tie with a cloth, while the strapping is done in the form of a figure eight. This is done so that during strong gusts of wind the tree does not hit the stake.

Planting a walnut in a permanent place is considered fully completed when the tree is securely fixed in the soil and firmly tied to a peg. After that, the nut is free to grow in a new place. With such a landing, it will be provided with nutrients for more than 10 years. A funnel-shaped mound around the hole will provide more water to the root system during rain.

When planting a nut, it should be remembered that in 7-8 years a large tree will grow, which can shade bushes and undersized trees, so you need to choose places where there are no such plants nearby. Also, the walnut should not be planted near buildings, as it will have a very branched root system, which can damage the foundation of the building.

The walnut tree grows up to 300-400 years. This means that at least 5 generations of one family can hide in its shadow and enjoy the fruits. If you are just setting up your garden and dreaming of a family tree, perhaps this article will help you make a choice in favor of a walnut.

Walnut wood is a valuable wood species, has a beautiful dark hue and is often used for the production of expensive designer furniture. The leaves are used to make a natural dye for fabrics. And if you rinse your hair with a decoction of walnut leaves, they will acquire a darker shade.

From unripe fruits, which contain vitamin C, all kinds of desserts are cooked in the form of jam or ground with honey and dried fruits. And the kernels of mature nuts contain such irreplaceable vitamins as K, which regulates the mechanism of blood coagulation, and P, which normalizes the state of capillary walls, increasing their strength and elasticity. Over time, stored nuts only concentrate their beneficial substances.

How to harvest and store crops

Nuts begin to bear fruit, depending on the variety, at the age of 3 years. Approximately in 5-6 years we will collect only 5-10 nuts. At the age of 15, we are waiting for 1-2 buckets of crops, at 20 years old - a bag, and at the age of 50-100 years - a whole centner! The fruits ripen in different periods from August to mid-October.

When the ripened pericarp, the green peel around the nut, begins to crack, and the nuts fall to the ground, then it's time to harvest. You should not hit the branches with sticks to get the fruits. Perhaps you need to wait a bit and collect fallen nuts or use stepladders and ladders so as not to damage the branches with "barbaric" methods.

Approximately in 5-6 years we will collect only 5-10 nuts. At the age of 15, we are waiting for 1-2 buckets of crops, at 20 years old - a bag, and at the age of 50-100 years - a whole centner!

The collected nuts must be cleaned of the green pericarp so that there is no rotting. Dry, spreading a thin layer in the open air. Place nuts in linen bags and store in a cool and dark place. You should not store nuts in hot rooms, as their oils become toxic and bitter at high temperatures. Walnuts stored in the shell retain antioxidant properties, and without the shell, they quickly oxidize and reduce their usefulness. It is better to plant these trees on the border of the site so as not to shade the rest of the plantings. Walnut is quite unpretentious and disease resistant. The walnut is undemanding to the soil; it grows almost everywhere. But does not like heavy and damp soils.

Planting a walnut

Planting of seedlings is carried out in the spring, since the young walnut is sensitive to frost and does not take root well during autumn planting. But it is better to prepare a pit for seedlings in the fall. It is necessary to dig a hole of about 1X1X1m. It should be 20-30 cm deeper than the roots. The fertile soil layer is mixed with humus and peat in a ratio of 1:1:1. We add fertilizers: dolomite flour - 500-1000 g, superphosphate - 2.5-3 kg, potassium chloride - 800 g. Fertilizers are mixed with the soil mixture, the pit is filled and left for the winter.

In the spring, the main root is cut to a length of 40 cm and the cut is covered with clay. The remaining roots are straightened, you can treat them with a growth stimulator. To do this, prepare a clay mash: take 1 part of rotted manure and 3 parts of clay. Water is brought to a creamy consistency with the addition of growth stimulants - "Epin" or "Humate". The roots are placed in a hole and covered with a mixture of earth and humus 1: 1. The root neck should be placed at ground level or slightly higher. The soil is well trampled down and watered with 1-2 buckets of water. When water is absorbed, the ground is mulched with straw, humus or peat to retain moisture. In dry weather, water 2-3 times a week.

Planting of seedlings is carried out in the spring, since the young walnut is sensitive to frost and does not take root well during autumn planting. But it is better to prepare a pit for seedlings in the fall.

Walnut pruning

Walnut is a light-loving plant, and a dense crown reduces the tree's fertility. Pruning stimulates growth and shapes the future crown. The crown can be improved-tiered, cup-shaped with 3-4 or shift-leader with 5-6 branches.

Fertilizer

Fertilize walnuts with special complexes or green manure, such as lupine, oats, rank, peas. Green manure is sown between rows at the end of summer and plowed into the soil in autumn. Mineral fertilizers should be applied carefully, as the root system does not like loosening. Nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied during the fruiting period and under young trees, as they can cause plant diseases. And phosphorus-potassium is well perceived and increases fertility. A medium-aged tree requires 10 kg of superphosphate, 6 kg of ammonium nitrate, up to 3 kg of potassium salt, 10 kg of ammonium sulfate per year. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring, and the rest in the fall.

Diseases and pests

Brown spotting or marsoniosis- the most dangerous disease of a walnut. It affects leaves, nuts, fruits. Brown spots appear on the leaves, in rainy summer they grow. The leaves fall off, the fruits remain unripe.

• Fight method: We collect and burn fallen leaves, cut off damaged branches. You should also spray the tree with 1% Bordeaux liquid 3-4 times with an interval of 2 weeks. Also, it is good to use fungicides "Strobi", "Horus", "Redom il Gold", etc.

nut moth. Its caterpillars bite into the pulp of the leaves, weaken the tree.

• Fight method: To combat them, you need to spray the plant with systemic poisons for fruit crops: Bombardier, Tanrek, Confidor, Calypso.

. Caterpillars live first in spider web nests, and then crawl along the tree. Leaves and young shoots are damaged.

• Fight method: If nests are found, they must be urgently removed and burned. Can be treated with insecticides: Aktara, Calypso, Confidor, etc.

. Caterpillars feed in early June and eat out the kernels of young fruits, after which the fruits fall off.

• Fight method: It is necessary to carry out timely treatment with insecticides, as with the American white butterfly.

Aphids are of different types. They feed on the juice of leaves and buds, and also weaken the nut.

• Fight method: In the fight against aphids, pesticides, such as Decis 2.5 EC 0.025%, will help. During the growing season, the treatment is repeated, since aphids have two or more generations over the summer.

Nut codling moth- the most dangerous pest. Caterpillars infect young fruits, and they fall prematurely.

• Fight method: To combat the pest, an overlay is used on the trunk of "trapping belts", which are strengthened at a height of 30-50 cm from the ground. This is a tape made of dense fabric, 15-20 cm wide, non-drying glue (ALT) is applied to it. If there are too many pests, the belt is changed and the old one is burned. We also spray Decis 2.5 EC 0.025% or Karate 2.5 EC 0.1-0.15%.

Nut warty mite. A very small pest (0.1 mm), as a result of its harmful activity, formations resembling warts appear on the leaves. Damages young plants.

• Fight method: To combat the tick, you need to use special preparations - acaricides, for example, Vermitek.

Walnut breeding is developing very actively, and many new varieties have been bred, winter-hardy, resistant to diseases and pests. For example, varieties: Yarovskoy, Chernovetsky, Skinosky, Kozaku, as well as early-growing varieties, for example, Ideal, Bukovinsky-1, etc., which begin to bear fruit already in the 2nd year. But this is a topic for a separate article.

If your garden does not yet have a walnut, be sure to plant it. In summer, in the shade of its crown, you can hide from the heat, and in winter you can enjoy tasty and healthy fruits. The noble, unpretentious, prolific walnut can become your family tree for centuries!

Walnut is an excellent remedy for the prevention of many diseases. Therefore, its market value is quite high, many will not be able to acquire it constantly for financial reasons. However, almost no one thinks about growing walnuts at home. How to plant a walnut seedling at home in a pot in autumn with your own hands? You can find out the details in this article.

As one wise saying goes – start from the very beginning! In order for the venture with your own walnut tree to be doomed to success, you need to purchase a seedling or nut that has not been thermally processed. That is, the green walnut should not be dried. Such fruits are quite difficult to find, although in the fall at the end of September, when a new crop of walnuts ripens, one can also find such a fruit. The choice of the fruit should be taken seriously and carefully examine it for damage from all sides before buying.

Although, if you plant it at home in an apartment or a private house in a pot, then for sure such a fruit will sprout and will delight guests with its appearance all year round. However, such a tree will only have a decorative role. Therefore, planting a walnut in a pot in the fall is quite simple, but do not count on the fact that such a tree will bear fruit right in the apartment.

If you are seriously thinking about growing a large and strong tree at home with your own hands, then you need to purchase a seedling that matches your region of residence. After all, the southern varieties will certainly freeze in the harsh climate of the middle zone of our country, and the northern varieties will die in the stuffy climate of the southern regions.

Stratification

In order to prepare the fruits for planting in the soil, it is necessary to choose a certain container for them, pour it with sand and put it in a cool and dark place. The most comfortable storage temperature for such a container with the fetus is from zero to +5 degrees Celsius. This is ideal for a cellar. But in the cellar, the temperature can change, so at home the best option for storing the fruit is a refrigerator. Several times a month, a container with sand and fruit needs to be taken out, ventilated and moistened with sand. In total, it is required to keep the fetus in this state for about 12-16 weeks. After this time, the seeds should be planted in open ground.

Sowing preparation

In order for the fruits to germinate faster, they need to be cleaned from the pericarp. This procedure is not mandatory, however, this way the sprouts germinate much faster and have a healthier appearance. However, when cleaning, great care is required, because a damaged sprout can grow into a tree with defects or not grow at all. After that, the fruits must be lowered into a container filled with water. The selection of the best fruits should be based on what remained on the surface and what fruits went to the bottom. You are guaranteed to be able to get good shoots from those that remained at the bottom.

How to plant seeds in spring? It should be planted in April, and before planting, dry the seeds in the sun for several days, then dry the seeds in the shade for several days. Pay attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to dry the seeds with household appliances or on heating radiators! If you plant seeds in the fall, then no additional operations are required, the sprouts will most likely sprout next spring.

Determination of the landing site

Since the walnut has a developed root system, it should be planted in the soil of moderate moisture. It is also necessary to pay attention to the depth of planting and the flow of groundwater. In addition, it is required to plant seeds away from ground buildings in the form of a bathhouse or a barn. The ideal option would be loamy soil, reinforced with fertilizers. This requires a hole approximately 80-120 centimeters deep, covered with manure mixed with half a bucket of crushed and sifted ash.

The walnut seeds themselves, when planted in autumn, must be placed at a depth of 10 or 20 centimeters. It is impossible to place a walnut with a point upwards, since even when planted in autumn, the future tree will begin to bear fruit much later. Therefore, the fruit has a point parallel to the soil level, and up to five fruits can be placed in one hole.