How to prune strawberry leaves. Leaf diseases on strawberries

Over time, many plants become unkempt. They do not please, but only depress their owners. Alya restoration of decorativeness and rejuvenation of plants use pruning. Removing and limiting the growth of certain shoots causes the plants to develop in a certain shape and direction. For indoor plants pruning is very important because it allows you to maintain a balance between the ground part of the plant and its root system, the size of which is limited by the size of the pot. In addition, pruning improves appearance plants and stimulates the development of dormant buds, making flowering more abundant. In some plants, flowers are formed only on young shoots, so pruning is necessary to enhance flowering.

There are several types of pruning: sanitary, rejuvenating and shaping. The purpose of sanitary pruning is to remove weakened old shoots, which are often easy prey for fungi and bacteria and a breeding ground for insect pests. Anti-aging pruning is done to stimulate the growth of new young branches to replace the old ones. Anti-aging pruning is especially needed for those plants that develop long shoots that lose leaves over time. It is also necessary if the shoots are exposed from high temperature or dry air in winter. This often happens, for example, with pelargoniums and hydrangeas. After rejuvenating pruning, many powerful, healthy shoots grow.

When should houseplants be pruned?

As a rule, pruning is done after a period of dormancy or flowering. It is better not to combine pruning with transplanting, as this may slow down the growth of new shoots. Many plants need to be pruned annually. Never cut plants at random, be sure to read the recommendations for each species first. Some plants may not bloom after pruning, while others will grow without pruning and become ugly. The best time for pruning is spring. Pruning is done after a dormant period. Cuts are made over outward-facing leaves, otherwise new shoots will grow inward. The cut should be made a few millimeters above the kidney and go away from it, slightly obliquely.

What are the rules for pruning?

For pruning, you need to use sharp and clean tools - secateurs, scissors or a knife. In plants with milky juice, the cut point must be carefully burned with a burning match. Major damage can be sprinkled with crushed charcoal to reduce the risk of infection. It is very important that the cut be smooth, without damage to the cortex and cambium underneath, because the growing cambium will close the wound. Remember that wood is not capable of regeneration, so it must be protected. Plants should be pruned above the bud facing outward from the crown so that the branches do not grow inward and do not intertwine. When pruning, moving to a new plant, be sure to disinfect the blade with alcohol, miramistin or other antiseptics.

What is pinching indoor plants?

Pinching - pinching off the top of the shoot with your fingers - is used to enhance the branching of very young shoots. They are so tender that you can do without secateurs. Pinching is also used to enhance branching, since the removal of the apical bud allows lateral shoots to develop. Pinch the plant usually over the first pair of leaves. In order for cuttings or young plants to branch well and not stretch upward, you need to slow down their growth in height by pinching off the tops of the shoots. It should be borne in mind that pinching the apical bud does not immediately lead to the development of lateral shoots. Sometimes this takes quite a long time.

In some plants, flowers form only on young shoots, therefore, to enhance branching and, accordingly, more abundant flowering, pinching them is vital. Such a plant, for example, is the “Decembrist” - the Schlumbergera cactus. It is recommended to pinch the shoots after flowering. You need to choose a separation point, clamp the lower stem segment between the index and thumb with one hand, and separate the upper one with a rotational movement. One or two segments of each stem should be separated in this way. Never cut segments! As a result, flowering will be more abundant, as strong stems will form that can carry large quantity colors. In addition, a well-formed Schlumberger is much lives longer- some specimens bloom and grow for 20 years or more.

How to prune indoor flowers?

It depends on the type of pruning and its purpose. In the process of sanitary pruning, dead and drying shoots and, in general, all unhealthy parts of the plant are cut out. You need to cut the shoot down to healthy tissue; if the shoot starts underground, it must be removed to the very base. With anti-aging pruning, 3-5 buds are left on the shoot. Of these, new, strong shoots will later develop. Do not spare pruned branches: the more radical the pruning, the more actively the remaining shoots will grow. It's okay if you remove up to 90% of the shoot length. After rejuvenating pruning, do not forget to feed the plant to provide it with opportunities for rapid growth. Formative pruning allows you to achieve certain form. So you can get a compact bush, a ball, a standard tree, a pyramid and other more complex shapes. This is the most complex view pruning, because for each specific plant and for each form, a different order of pruning shoots is needed.

How to form a compact bush?

Many plants look most attractive and thrive best when grown into a compact bush. These plants include Indian Azalea (Azalea indica), Achimenes (Achimenes), Coleus (Coleus), Balsam (Impatiens), Beloperone (Beloperone), Brovallia (Browallia), Hibiscus (Hibiscus) and many others. To form a bush young plant at a height of 6-7 cm pinch the top of the main shoot. Lateral shoots, after reaching a height of 10-12 cm, are also pinched. When is formed beautiful bush, you need to periodically pluck or cut out the shoots directed inward, it is better at the very beginning of their appearance. Azalea is an example. After the first pinching, three shoots are left (they are called shoots of the 1st order), after the 2nd pinching, 2 shoots are left on each shoot of the 1st order, then during subsequent pinching, the number of shoots left is alternated in this way: 3-2-3- 2 etc.

How to form a stem tree?

A trunk in horticulture is called a tree trunk from the ground to the first branch of the crown. In a sense, almost all trees are standard trees. In a narrower sense, a standard form is a relatively small tree artificially formed (by pruning, grafting). Many houseplants shaped like a standard village look very attractive. It is convenient to focus on the following dimensions: a desktop village 30-45 cm high, a low village 45-80 cm high and a standard tree 80-105 cm high. standard tree take a strong rooted cutting, growing vertically upwards. Then removed side shoots until the plant reaches the desired height. When this height is reached, the top of the plant is cut off and 5-6 lateral shoots are allowed to develop, which will be the top of the standard tree. All leaves at the base of the stem are removed, and then the crown is formed into the desired shape. In the form of a trunk, you can grow roses, pelargoniums, fuchsias ...

How to form an arc?

Ampelous and climbing plants form long shoots that can be launched along a wire arc. Stephanotis, Passiflora, Bougainvillea glabra, Dipladenia, Jasminum and other plants can be grown in this way. To do this, the arched support is carefully inserted into the pot. Then the shoots are distributed along the wire, and in some places they are loosely tied with woolen thread or soft braid.

How to form curly shapes?

Some plants lend themselves easily to shearing or solid pruning. It is produced without taking into account the branches, and this allows you to form almost any shape. There are very few such plants, but they still exist. Houseplants include evergreen boxwood (Buxus sempervirens), large-fruited cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa) and winter heather (Erica hiemalis).

Pruning strawberry leaves: when, how and why?

How many gardeners, so many opinions: some believe that it is necessary to cut strawberries before July 20, others begin the pruning procedure in August, and still others completely deny the need to remove the leaves.
There is something to be confused by a novice gardener!

So all the same, when to cut strawberries, and is it good or bad for the plant? Opponents of strawberry pruning make the following arguments:

Leaves are very important in the process of photosynthesis of a strawberry plant, due to them the bush breathes.

By removing such important organs of the plant, we “block the oxygen” of strawberries, as a result of which it is difficult to prepare the berry bush for winter.

In the fight against pests and diseases, pruning is useless, since small pests and fungal spores fall to the ground from the removed strawberry leaves, remain in the soil and calmly move to new leaves next season.

On the other hand, you yourself may notice that strawberry leaves remain healthy for only two months, after which red spots, “rust” and other unhealthy signs appear.

This means that the leaf has already grown old and needs to be removed in order for a fresh green leaf to grow in its place.

Harm berry bush you will not cause pruning of leaves, since strawberries reproduce with a mustache and are quite quickly able to build up a fresh “green mass”. And in order to prevent the reproduction of pathogenic spores and bacteria in the soil, it is necessary to spray it with special preparations, water it with a solution of potassium permanganate or cover it with wood ash. This should be done in any case - whether you trim the strawberries or not.

How to prune strawberry bushes. It doesn’t make much sense to stick to deadlines: you can start trimming leaves before July 20 or after. It is important that strawberries go for wintering already cut, with young shoots that have grown over the fall. The most common option is pruning in early August, when the plant no longer bears fruit.

In this case, it is better to choose a dry day, without bright sun and without rain, scheduling pruning in the morning or in the evening. You need to trim the leaves and mustaches of strawberries with a thin secateurs or sharp scissors. If you start to pick off the mustache with your hands, you risk damaging the plant itself and its root system, since the antennae are much stronger than the bushes.

Do not try to cut the leaf to the very root! Bushes with stems about 10 cm long should remain on the strawberry bed, only the leaf blades themselves will need to be removed. So you are guaranteed to save the "growth point", from where new shoots will grow later.

You can only remove the limp, unhealthy leaves or completely cut off all the strawberry foliage. When removing excess whiskers, leave antennae with healthy rosettes for reproduction, the first in a row from the bush. Dig these sockets into the ground so that they give roots. In the event that you are not interested in propagating strawberries with a mustache, remove all existing mustaches from the bushes without regret. There is no need to leave them - thickening the mustache will only lead to a decrease in the yield of berries.

Tomatoes like any horticultural crops, love sunlight, so many summer residents practice pruning extra leaves. This is done so as not to create an extra shadow.

Also, if you do not prune tomatoes, the strength of the plant will be spent on nutrition and foliage development, and not on crop formation. Let's analyze the sequence of pruning leaves in tomatoes in open field and in a greenhouse.

Gradual pruning of leaves in a tomato

The first pruning is at the seedling picking stage. To form a strong root system, a third of the plant is cut off along with the leaves. The growth of the bush and its root system occurs in breadth and captures large area nutrition for the plant.

The second pruning of leaves in tomatoes is carried out in conjunction with pinching. Serves for better development crops, resulting in higher yields and disease prevention.

Also, pruning of tomato leaves can be done at any time after the formation of the ovaries, when signs of damage or disease are found, or when they interfere with the ripening of the fruit.

Why you need to trim the leaves of a tomato

Undersized (determinant) varieties of tomatoes do not need pruning. This procedure is necessary for tall tomatoes of indeterminate and hybrid varieties, which are grown for the efficient use of the soil.

When pruning tomatoes, you must remove:

• old or sick yellow leaves, which are often sources of late blight;
• Leaves on the north side, located in the depths of the bushes. They create a thick, which prevents the airing of the bushes and the evaporation of condensate and moisture falling on the foliage, which stimulates the development of diseases;
• Leaves growing from brushes, weakening the plant. Such shoots are to be removed if all the fruits in the cluster have successfully set;
• Lower leaves in contact with the soil. Removing these leaves exposes the stem and provides it with access to sunlight and heat. For adult plants, the lower leaves are cut to the first fruiting brush at a height of up to 30 cm;
• Leaves in the shade, as well as shading fruits. Such foliage disrupts the processes of photosynthesis and causes a decrease in yield.

Pruning the leaves of a tomato video

Rules and terms for trimming leaves from tomatoes

Pruning tomatoes in open ground is carried out twice a week, cutting off 2-3 leaves. Subject to ideal conditions cultivation culture is growing at an accelerated pace. Therefore, the number of cut leaves can be increased to 5-6 pieces when pruning a tomato in a greenhouse.

For southern latitudes, after the formation of fruits on all brushes, complete pruning of leaves in tomatoes is possible. Thus, the plant is completely freed from excess load and the ripening of fruits is accelerated.

When pruning tomatoes, you should be guided general rule: above the brush with unformed ovaries, almost all leaves should be intact; and vice versa - if the ovaries are formed, then under the brush you can remove all the leaves.

Start the procedure after the formation of fruits on the first brush. The leaf is carefully broken off, pressing the base up to the stem. It is wrong to pull the sheet down. This will damage the top layer of the stem from the base of the leaf.

Pasynkovanie and pruning tomatoes in the greenhouse video

Pruning the leaves of a tomato in a greenhouse can be done at any time, without restrictions, but after it you should skip the next airing. The leaves are removed throughout the entire time of the formation of the ovaries until the pinching of the top (mid - end of September).

Outcome

Fulfilling necessary procedures caring for tomatoes, and following the recommendations given in the article, you can speed up the ripening of fruits, get rid of unnecessary stress on plants, and reduce the likelihood of diseases. Compliance with all the rules for pruning tomatoes in the open field and in the greenhouse will eliminate many problems with growing, and will allow you to harvest an excellent harvest.

Strawberries are the earliest ripening berry, widespread and popular. It is fast-growing and relatively simple and easy to propagate. To get a rich harvest, you need good care.

Why is pruning needed?

Pruning is one of the agricultural techniques for caring for berries. But along with the view that pruning prepares strawberries for next season's harvest, there is another that calls into question the effectiveness of pruning. In summer, strawberries vigorously grow foliage, which is directly involved in the formation of those buds from which berries will be tied in the future. Many are interested in why it is necessary to cut strawberries.

Green and saturated color leaves remain only during the growing season, lasting about two months. Then the aging leaves turn yellow, dry out, stains form on them, and resistance to diseases and pests decreases.

Pruning helps strawberries achieve the following goals:

• fix the roots, since all the necessary nutrients will be absorbed only by the roots, and not spent on the foliage; they will become longer, stronger, roots will grow from the sides and the total mass of the roots will increase;
• make higher cold resistance;
• remove possible harmful insects located on the foliage;
• partially get rid of pathogens of various infections of a fungal or bacterial nature;
• rejuvenates the bush, helps the formation of young and healthy leaves, the ability to high fruiting.

When pruning, leaves and whiskers are removed. But the mustache is cut off if there is no need for its reproduction. Whiskers that are not removed make the plantation densely overgrown, which ultimately leads to a decrease in yield. Opponents' opinions are based on the fact that the leaves are an additional source of nutrition for the roots. Cutting them will change the course of photosynthesis and the process of oxygen absorption, which will affect the growth and development of berries.

This is true, but only applies to young bushes whose foliage is not damaged by pests or diseases and retains freshness and juiciness throughout the growing season. Strawberries of the third and fourth years of life require pruning. Cutting the foliage does not harm the strawberry, as it has the ability to quickly restore it.

Negative factors cuts can be considered as follows:

• with improper cutting, you can also remove the buds in which future berries are laid, which will lead to a decrease in yield;
• a real strawberry rosette may not have time to form in time for the cold and the bush will freeze in winter;
• with a large-scale rot disease or the presence of many insects, pruning the leaves will not help, because when pruning, the spores of pathogens fall into the soil, where they successfully survive the winter and take on a stable form; in the spring they activate their vital activity;
• in the next season, the berries ripen somewhat later, although their number increases.

Timing

Foliage renewal in strawberries happens 3 times during the growing season: in spring, summer and autumn. The period of life of its foliage is about 70 days, then comes the time of aging. Multi-colored spots on them are a sign of the aging process, which is accompanied by the intake of nutrients from the strawberry bush, thereby depleting it. Pruning strawberry leaves can also be carried out in three stages, each of them has its own characteristics.

spring pruning

Spring foliage growth is the basis for future fruiting. survived cold winter, by spring, even healthy and strong strawberries lose some of their foliage, as it is damaged by frost. Remove it in the spring. Pruning is done in early spring according to weather conditions from the end of March to the middle of April. And in May, before flowering, the mustache formed in autumn is removed. The purpose of spring pruning is to renew strawberry bushes.

If there are rotten, dry, diseased or simply damaged leaves on the bushes, they are carefully cut off, without touching the young leaves and unblown buds, so as not to harm the flower stalks and not lose the crop. Thus, pruning in the spring clears strawberry bushes from spoiled green mass, which prevents the formation of food reserves for future berries. Spring pruning is selective and is carried out only as needed, subject to summer and autumn pruning.

It does not affect the amount of harvest, but cutting overwintered foliage with possible pests will be a preventive measure against them.

summer cut

The second stage of growth and development of foliage occurs after the end of fruiting. This is the time of formation of flowering buds of the next season and accumulation useful substances. Pruning is carried out after the completion of the harvest in July and is a preventive measure against insects and infections, and is also considered the most effective. During the time remaining until winter, strawberry bushes will have time to form new young leaves and flower buds, to accumulate useful substances.

They will thoroughly prepare for the winter and better endure the unfavorable period. In the summer, pruning dates come in a week - 10 days after the full completion of fruiting. AT middle lane deadlines are in mid-August.

pruning in autumn

The autumn growth of the green mass of strawberries is the basis of its successful wintering and the purpose of the autumn cut. Pruning is done in advance before the onset of cold weather, the best time- from the last decade of August to September, when a few new leaves still have time to grow. You need to cut only dry and damaged leaves, without touching the center of the bush. Pruning in the fall has several benefits.

The development cycle of strawberries and the basis of future berries are formed in the fall. At this time, the laying of generative buds continues, the accumulation of sucrose and nutrients in the stems, and the activity of pests stops. Properly carried out pruning will allow you to move on to wintering with strong young leaves, with flowering buds planted for the future harvest. It is mandatory if in the summer the care for strawberries was not very good.

Important! Strawberry pruning should not be carried out during the formation of buds and ovaries, during the fruiting period, and also in late autumn.

Process details

Pruning in the spring involves cutting foliage and whiskers. Strawberry beds after the onset of heat are inspected to detect any damage. Some equipment is required for pruning: a sharp pruner (you can use scissors), a rake and small size hoe. In spring, only damaged, dry, diseased leaves can be cut. When cutting, you need to leave the stem 5–7 cm long from the outlet. It is not necessary to remove too many leaves in the spring, otherwise the strawberries will use up nutrients on the growth of new leaves to the detriment of the development of flowers, and then the ovaries. Healthy leaves must be preserved and left at least five.

It is necessary to adhere to the following sequence of pruning:

• dry and old leaves, as well as with any damage, or those that grow with a slope, or lying on the ground, must be cut with a sharp secateurs;
• they also mow underdeveloped leaves and with deformation, because they will block the sun and access fresh air to berries;
• the whiskers are removed if there is no need to propagate strawberries, they can be cut only 7–10 cm from the outlet, after which they are removed from the soil; they resort to using a chopper if the mustache sits firmly in the ground, and only the strongest mustaches are chosen for strawberry propagation - these are mustaches from an annual bush of the first or second position from it;
• together with pruning, weeding of the plantation is carried out in order to provide light and air access to the bushes, because the size and quality of the fruit depends on this;
• it is better to burn the tops collected with a rake, since harmful insects that hibernated on the foliage will die in the fire;
• then the soil on the ridge must be well loosened, which will allow water and air to freely penetrate to the roots; for loosening between the beds, a small chopper is used and loosened quite deeply.

Important! Loosening is carried out directly under the bush with a blunt iron pin. This must be done very carefully, since the strawberry roots are superficial, located no deeper than 4 cm from the surface and can be easily damaged. Closer than ten centimeters to the strawberry outlet can not be approached.

Inexperienced gardeners often make such mistakes when spring pruning, as:

• mow strawberry bushes instead of selectively cutting leaves;
• violate the integrity of the outlet with a sloppy haircut;
• cause damage to the roots when loosening;
• carry out too short cutting of leaves and whiskers.

Important! Proper pruning in the spring will only improve the illumination, aeration of the beds, and reduce the risk of diseases and pests.

The meaning of pruning in the summer is the removal of numerous mustaches. After that nutrients will go to the foliage, they will strengthen and prepare for the winter. From the end of June they begin to regularly inspect strawberry beds. If signs of disease or pest damage are found, the leaves and mustache are cut off with secateurs. Usually you can cut strawberries only after fruiting is complete: the end of July or the beginning of August.

Cut only the leaves, do not remove the stems. This is done as follows: leaving a stem up to 7 cm long, cut the top of the strawberry bush, collecting it and holding it with the other hand. So, the center of growth of the bush, the key to the future harvest, remains untouched.

Important! The summer pruning methods are similar to the spring pruning methods, after which the plantation is loosened in the summer.

At the beginning of autumn, usually in September, all weak and damaged leaves and mustaches, as well as extra first-year bushes, are cut off. On the abandoned first-years and adult bushes, dry, yellow and leaves on the soil are cut off. Adult strawberries require thinning of the bush: stems are removed from the middle of the rosette, leaving about 8 stems. Cutting should be neat, at a height of up to two centimeters from the outlet, to avoid damage to the generative buds. It is impossible to cut strawberries completely in autumn.

For trimming strawberries at any time better fit dry, not rainy weather, it is advisable to do this in the morning or evening. You can not tear the leaves with your hands, pull out the mustache, so as not to damage the entire bush. Pruning should begin with beds with young and healthy plants, moving on to older ones. If there are diseased beds, they are the last to take care of them, and the equipment used is then disinfected.

Pruning remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberry, fruiting all summer, also requires pruning. The peculiarity of pruning this type of strawberry is that it is selective and is produced during the fruiting period. Throughout the season, the beds are regularly viewed and only the damaged parts of the plant and the stems from which the ripe berries were harvested are removed. Some varieties require thinning. It is produced in early spring. All stems are cut off, leaving only 8. The whiskers are regularly removed when picking berries so that the energy reserve goes to the formation of new berries.

Aftercare

Properly performed pruning can bring success, provided that it is well cared for afterward. The berry should not lack moisture and nutrients. Therefore, after pruning, it is necessary to water it. the best way watering is drip irrigation or the use of sprinklers in the form of turntables. Watering should be regular and moderate. First, water each or every other day until it starts active growth young foliage.

Effective and organic mixtures of bird droppings and manure, namely:

• daily infusion of chicken manure (200 g) is diluted in 10 liters of water, this mixture is applied to the aisles;
• manure solution - a quarter of a bucket is filled with mullein, poured with water and infused for 3 days, then the contents are again diluted in a ratio of 1: 4; the consumption of the mixture is 10 liters per 1 sq. m.

After summer pruning, it is important to carry out preventive spraying against pests and infections; this procedure is repeated three days later. When harmful insects are detected, the Inta-vir insecticidal agent is used, spraying it twice. At this time, strawberries are also fed using complex fertilizers, as well as nitrogen agents and saltpeter. Very effective for strengthening strawberries is such a three-time dressing, such as:

• the first time immediately after cutting the foliage - nitrogen fertilizers are applied a lot and in liquid form, or dry chicken manure (1 Matchbox) under the bushes, followed by deep loosening - by 10 cm;
• carried out again after 14 days - a mixture of phosphorus, potassium and organic fertilizers is used;
• for the third time (until September 15), mullein infusion or compost solution is added.

In autumn, when watering strawberries, it is good to use the Zircon stimulant, the action of which is directed to the root system and stems. They also carry out preventive treatment against various fungal and bacterial infections. Effective drugs are "Ridomil Gold", "Ridomil", "Skor", "Topaz". Bordeaux liquid is often also used. After it, you can treat with copper chloride. To destroy pests, spraying with karbofos is used, after which the beds are covered with polyethylene for a while.

Before the onset of winter, strawberries need to be fed again to strengthen the roots and stems. AT autumn top dressing use rationally organic fertilizers: humus, chicken manure compost, ashes. Solutions of mullein and bird droppings are poured between the rows, trying not to pour over the leaves. wood ash sprinkle row spacing (200 g per 1 sq. M) or its aqueous solution (150 g per bucket of water). Mulching is also carried out in autumn. In October, sawdust and peat are used as mulch, which will protect the roots from the cold, and retain moisture in the spring. The layer of mulch should be at least 5 cm.

For information on when and how to cut strawberries, see the following video.

Kira Stoletova

Trimming the leaves of tomatoes is extremely important when cultivating a crop. Consider how to carry out the procedure correctly.

The Importance of Pruning

Tomato leaves are one of the most important plant organs. They are responsible for processes such as:

• absorption of nutrients;
• breath;
• temperature control;
• preventing moisture loss.

Pruning leaves from tomatoes improves air circulation in the bush. The procedure helps the plant to redirect its forces from growing greenery to the formation of fruits and prevents the development of putrefactive diseases.

When removing excess green mass, the fruits become larger, their ripening time decreases.

When to prune

Pruning of leaves in tomatoes is carried out, taking into account a number of recommendations.

• The first pruning is carried out during the dive of the seedlings. The lower plates are cut off so that 1/3 of the entire mass remains. Do this to strengthen the root system.
• Pruning is carried out if the seedlings are too elongated. In this case, it is correct to cut off the lower greenery, and put the seedlings on the ground and deepen.
• First of all, old leaves are cut off from tomatoes: they turn yellow and often become stained, which contributes to the development of fungal diseases. Spots are especially dangerous for tomatoes growing in a greenhouse.
• Greenery growing in the darkened part of the bush takes little part in photosynthesis, so it is also removed.
• The greenery growing below the first fruiting brush is removed. This procedure has a positive effect on the development and quality of the fetus.
• Cut the greens over the grown fruits. The fruits of tomatoes themselves are involved in the process of photosynthesis, so they do not need an additional shadow.
• Remove one half of the plate if this part is in the shade and does not participate in photosynthesis.
• It is advised to remove new shoots, as they take strength from the plant and contribute to improper fruit development.

How to cut

• Pruning is done with disinfected scissors or secateurs. Also, the leaves are cut off, pressing the base up, carefully so as not to damage the stem.
• The frequency of the procedure depends on the rate of development of the seedling. Yellowed lower leaves are harvested about once every 15 days. Pruning of the main mass begins after the formation of small fruits. Sluggish foliage is removed as it appears. AT greenhouse conditions cultivation pruning start earlier.
• In open ground, pruning is carried out in the morning. So, during the day the wound has time to dry and tighten, which does not allow the development of gray rot. In the evening or on a rainy day, tomato pruning is not done.
• Pruning of leaves from tomatoes in a greenhouse is done at any time. The only condition is the cancellation of airing on this day.
• No more than 3 sheets are removed at a time.
• After harvesting, from the first brushes, pruning is carried out to the second, and then to the third fruit ovary. Above the third brush, it is better not to prune, because, left without greenery, the seedling will die.
• At the very end, cut off the top of the bush. One ovary is chosen, a little greenery is left on it, everything else is removed: this is how the tomato spends more energy on nutrition and fruit growth.

Bush formation

The formation of the bush depends on the variety of tomato:

• determinant;
• determinate;
• superdeterminant.

On a tall variety, 1-3 stems are formed, a stepson is left under the first flower brush. To properly remove it, press the base against the stem and pull upwards so as not to damage the stem. The lower leaves are removed until the height from the soil to the foliage is about 30 cm. Cutting off will prevent fungal diseases, provide access to light and air to the stem of the plant.

As soon as about 8 brushes have formed on the plant, cut off the top.

determinant variety

The determinant variety is distinguished by the formation of a fruiting brush after a 5-7-leaf plate. Having formed 4-5 brushes, these varieties stop growing. To prolong the fruiting period, the growth point is transferred to the side shoot.

Ideterminant variety

An indeterminate variety of tomatoes forms only one shoot. The first fruiting brush is formed after a 10-11-leaf plate. To increase productivity, side shoots are removed. Removal of stepchildren is done after the formation of one flower brush on them. This procedure is performed once a week.