Door frame from a profile pipe. Tools and materials for work

Today, not only the townspeople, but also the bulk of the owners of suburban property prefer metal structures as entrance doors. In theory, they are much stronger, more reliable and durable than wooden or plastic counterparts. But in fact, many solid-looking metal doors from the budget segment can be opened with a can opener, and scrap for them - universal key. Install the same massive expensive design not everyone can afford, and high price- not a guarantee of adequate quality. Therefore, craftsmen who have welding skills and the appropriate tool base prefer to make such doors on their own. In this situation, you can be sure of the strength of the frame, and decent parameters of sound absorption and thermal insulation, and give the appearance in the general style. FORUMHOUSE users also mastered the process and share the results. We study their experience and - cook metal door.

introductory

AT standard version a metal door consists of a frame, canvas, hinges and mounting elements (plates, lugs, pins). You can’t do without certain costs for materials and components, but a self-made door will cost much less than a purchased one. The exact list of consumables depends on the design, dimensions and purpose - if a simple frame with sheathing and a latch is enough for a household unit, then to enter the house the door must be multi-layered, with effective locking fittings and decorative cladding. In the second case, an approximate set of necessary things looks like this:

• Metal corner (from 5 mm) or profile - for the box;
• Metal corner or profile pipe - for the frame, stiffeners;
• Sheet of metal - for power sheathing ( optimum thickness 2-3 mm).
• Thermal insulation material(mineral wool, polystyrene foam, XPS or PSB);
• Accessories - hinges (preferably with bearings), seal, peephole, lock / locks, handle, etc.;
• Finishing - wood, forging, plastic (for inside various panels or laminate).

One of milestones- measurements, if you make a mistake, in the future it will become much more difficult to install the door, so you should follow certain recommendations:

• All measurements are not from the finishing layer, but from the draft wall;
• There should be a groove between the box and the opening, the standard one is 2 cm (for alignment and mounting seam);
• The gap between the box and the leaf on the side of the hinges is 3 mm, on the side of the lock - 5 mm.

Having a working drawing with dimensions, or at least a sketch, will be of great help, not everyone has a fantasy developed enough to imagine the final result in their mind. Fortunately, there are enough workable drawings on the Web, if drawing and drawing are also difficult.

But best helper is an experience that the participants of our portal generously share.

dronduletus FORUMHOUSE user

Welded simple doors for installation in the country; I am not a pro, the door is my third welding experience (after gratings), so maybe I did something wrong, I have my jambs.

A profile pipe 20x40 mm, a metal sheet 3 mm thick went to the frame, mineral wool was used as an insulator, and MDF was finished.

Since it is necessary to cook the frame on a rigid flat surface, and the craftsman did not have a suitable hob, he used the beams exposed in the same plane. He also used clamps to keep the geometry of the product, some of them slightly “grab” the elements to the hob during the welding process. dronduletus made the door in several stages.

I cut the pipe to size, did not observe 45⁰ angles, since welding was carried out end-to-end, assembled the frame, beat off the diagonal, grabbed it, checked it, and fixed it with clamps. Welded the frame and welded stiffeners.

I cut the sheet for the sheathing, taking into account the overlap allowances around the entire perimeter (1.5 cm), fixed it on the frame with clamps. First, I welded it from the inside of the frame - from the middle to the edge, with tacks (about 2 cm in increments of 15-20 cm). To make the sheet less led, cook diagonally - opposite sides in different directions. After that, I boiled the outer seams in the same way, cleaned them with a grinder, and boiled them along the stiffeners in the same order. One rib could have been dispensed with, but the sheet turned out to be bent. Next, I welded a “pocket” under the lock - cut a groove at the end, scalded the profile around the perimeter.

I cooked the box from a corner of 40x40 mm, used a channel for the threshold, 100x50mm, when cutting the segments, I added gaps not only for the hinges and the lock, but also up and down (4 mm each). As a protection against those who like to profit from someone else's good, I welded additional plates / plugs over the place where the crossbar will enter the full width (on both sides). I welded metal strips for attaching the box to the wall (two on top and three on the sides). It protected itself not only from knocking out the bolt, but also from removing the door from its hinges.

dronduletus

I welded pieces of a corner 8 cm wide inside the door, onto the back side of the frame, lifting it 8 mm from it - these are anti-removable crabs.

Sheds welded in horizontal position– by putting the canvas in a box and placing a 2 mm thick steel plate between the canopy and the canvas, in order to stick the seal afterward and avoid friction. The canopies were welded at a distance of 25 cm from the edge of the canvas to the center of each canopy, after checking the level and fixing it with clamps.

Since the walls are old and the condition of the bricks leaves much to be desired, he abandoned the usual anchors, and used the pins only to fix the threshold (channel). The box was fixed on studs, 25 cm long (diameter 12 mm) and chemical anchors, after mounting the box, I hung the door and drilled holes for the crossbar. I put a heater in the cavity of the door, sewed everything MDF panels, painted.

Another member of the portal did not take pictures of the process, but his observations will be useful to everyone who is going to make a door.

outsider FORUMHOUSE user

I also welded the doors, I didn’t take a photo in the process, but I’ll tell you the subtleties. I did it with my father-in-law, they welded a bunch of these doors as a coven at the factory.

Do-it-yourself metal door, life hacks and conclusions:

• Iron for sheathing is better to take hot-rolled, cold-rolled is tight with geometry and right angles;
• To weld the hinge plate to the box with a clamp, you need to hold it slightly and immediately release it. When the seam cools, the plate will bend with the required clearance. All loops are scalded after fixing;

• If done special device(as in the figure), pressing the sheet to the corner during welding will avoid "bubbles";

• So that during the operation of the door the canvas does not touch the frame, the hinges are welded so that the axis of the hinge falls on the edge of the sheet;

Intermediate draft result in the photo.

Master81 welded two metal doors - double and single (255x110 mm and 210x0.72 mm), and, looking at his creation, it is clear that he is "on a short foot" with metal.

The box was cooked from a corner five millimeters thick, six is ​​possible, but four is undesirable, the frame is made of profile pipe 40x20 mm. Difficulties in the manufacture of the structure did not cause.

Master81 FORUMHOUSE user

I measured the doorway, minus a centimeter from the width and length, cut the corner with a grinder evenly, first assembled the box, then the frame under the door.

Another one of our craftsmen FORUMHOUSE member from Moscow with a nickname oss, has already made the sixth metal door, if you count Garage Doors. The canvas is three millimeters thick, the frame is made of a profile pipe 50x40x3 mm, like the majority, but he approached the issue of security thoroughly. Armored plate, inner plate, lever lock with four crossbars, protective shutter in the well. These improvements have increased the cost of the product, but peace of mind is more expensive. No photo oss compensates with a streamlined build process and helpful tips.

oss FORUMHOUSE user

Prior to this, the doors were made different ways, including first strapping, and then - tack and frame assembly. The sequence chosen this time seems more optimistic.

The optimized version looks like this:

• I started with the front vertical profile, made a frame, fixed the lock in the frame, checked how it works;
• I made a rear vertical profile, immediately welded the protivosemniks (behind the hinges);
• I assembled the entire frame from profiles for tacks;
• I cut the skin along the frame (with an overlap of 20 mm);
• “Baited” the sheet, scalded it with tacks in increments of 150 mm;
• In the racks of the box (strapping), I cut out grooves for crossbars and protivosemnik;
• Welded a box with gaps (3 and 5 mm);
• Welded the loops.

O ss advises inserting one combined door lock instead of two different ones.

In a topic on the forum dedicated to, the opinion was expressed that the costs of homemade products would be tangible, and the savings would not be so significant that the game was worth the candle. However, for skillful hands and the manufacturing process is quite feasible, and the ability to choose decent materials, and not guess what is inside the purchased structure, is an important factor. Therefore, while some talk about expediency, others do and share real experience in order to make it easier for beginners.

How to save on admission wooden doors, you can find out from the article - also on our portal. In the video - an overview of popular novelties of doors from the famous exhibition.

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In the entrance door market steel structures rightfully occupy one of the leading positions. Manufacturing technology and positive characteristics materials allow preventing unauthorized entry into the premises and withstand all illegal opening attempts by selecting door keys, destroying or deforming the door leaf. Range finished products in specialized stores is quite extensive, however, making an iron door with your own hands is not only possible, but also accessible to virtually everyone. It is only important to have the desire and experience to work with a welding machine, as well as to strictly adhere to the sequence when working with materials and tools.

To the main reasons for making steel doors independently include:

• Non-standard dimensions of the structure, which should be the result;
• The embodiment of the exclusive idea of ​​the designer;
• Use of special materials;
• Opportunity to obtain a high quality product;
• Economic component.

A quality iron door has high protective properties, provides sufficient heat and sound insulation, has a long service life.

Iron structure design

The process of manufacturing an iron door should begin with the creation of a drawing, which indicates the actual dimensions of the product. The resulting scheme will serve as the basis for the assembly and subsequent installation of the door.

You need to start by measuring the width and height of the doorway. The measurements obtained are transferred to paper, a diagram is drawn future design with the specified width and height of the door leaf.

The standard size of the metal structure is 900 mm x 2000 mm. If the dimensions are larger, then it is installed additional block from above, it is closed with sheet iron, glass, grating, or a blind or hinged block is welded on the side. All elements are specified in the project.

Dimensions door frame should be 2 cm smaller size doorway. The resulting gap will subsequently greatly simplify the process of installing the box and allow you to adjust it if necessary.
The number of loops is calculated taking into account the weight of the structure, as a rule, 2 - 4 canopies are used. To evenly distribute the load, the hinges are welded at the same distance from each other. In this case, the first and last are welded at a distance of 15 cm from the outer edge of the door.

The next step is to reinforce the door frame with additional stiffeners. The main stiffener is located in the middle of the door leaf, and additional stiffeners can be put in from the corners of the product or from the hinges, which will evenly distribute the load over the entire door area. The main thing is that the stiffeners do not interfere with the insertion of the lock, the installation of the handle and the peephole. Stiffeners must provide strength finished product, their number is also chosen at your own discretion.

Materials and tool kit

To necessary tools to assemble an iron door with your own hands include:

• Electric drill;
• Screwdriver;
• Bulgarian, equipped with a cutting disc for metal;
• clamps;
• A set of files, a grinder;
• A set of measuring tools.



Materials for the manufacture of a standard design include:

• Steel sheet (2 - 3 mm thick with a dimension of 100 x 200 cm);
• Metal corners for the frame (3.2 x 3.2 cm 6 p.m.);
• Profile pipe for the frame and stiffeners (5x 2.5 cm 9 p.m.);
• Canopies for doors;
• Reinforcement plates for fastening the door frame to the wall (40 x 4 cm, thickness of which is 2 - 3 mm, in the amount of 4 pcs.);
• Door fittings (locks, handles);
• Anti-corrosion protective compounds, dye;
• Mounting foam, anchor bolts.

Range door hardware and castles is quite diverse, the choice depends solely on personal preferences. But the most popular mechanisms are locks with crossbars on three sides. Such products are much more difficult to install, but their protective functions are much higher.



If the iron door is intended for utility rooms, you can apply a more simplified and financially low-cost option: the reinforcing bar will perform the function of a stiffener.

Assembly steps

The process of assembling a metal structure consists of the following steps.

collection box

Frame parts are cut from a profile pipe and laid in the form of a rectangle on the welding table. Once again, all dimensions are checked, including diagonally. Control measurement allows you to set the angles clearly at 90 degrees. A correctly adjusted design is tack welded.



After completion of welding work, it is necessary to check the perpendicularity of the sides and measure the distance between opposite pairs of corners. Compare source data.

If everything worked out correctly, you can proceed to the final welding work. Upon completion, the seams must be sanded. Then reinforcing plates are welded to the door frame.



Door leaf assembly

To assemble the canvas, it is necessary to measure the inside of the door frame. On each side we retreat 7 cm - these are the dimensions of the future structure.

From the metal corners, the blanks required along the length are cut and pass pre-processing to remove burrs. The prepared corners must be laid inside the structure to form a rectangle. After that, control and measuring actions are performed.



If there are any nuances, they must be eliminated and fit all the details in size. Docking points are welded tightly.

The next step is to cut the material for the stiffeners, they are welded tightly to the door frame. It is important to take into account all the places indicated in the project for installing the lock and related fittings.


The appearance of the frame with welded stiffeners.

The fabrication of the blade begins with the laying of the steel sheet on the welding table or gantry. A finished frame is laid on top of the sheet and a contour is drawn according to the dimensions specified in the project, while from the outer edges of the frame it is necessary to indent 10 cm.



According to the outlined contour, a steel sheet is cut out, the cut sections must be polished. Prepared canvas with welding machine mounted to the frame.

An important point: in order to prevent distortion, welding cannot be done with a continuous seam.



The best option for a welding seam is 30 mm pieces with an intermediate distance of 15 - 20 mm. To avoid subsequent hidden defects, during operation, the product must periodically cool down, otherwise it may need to be repaired in the near future.

Finished with outer side doors, the canvas must be turned over, and laid on top door frame.

For the convenience of fitting the box to the frame, you can use linings, the thickness of which is from 2 to 5 mm, they are laid around the entire perimeter of the structure. In the resulting space, a sealing tape will be installed in the future to improve the soundproofing qualities of the door.



When the door leaf is completely ready, special cuts are made to install the internal lock and peephole, a hole is drilled under door handle. The edges of the holes in without fail are to be sanded.
An important point: the size of the hole for the lock at the same time must allow the installation of the lock without play and provide free access to it in case of repair work.

For padlock it is necessary to provide special overlays.

Installation of door hinges

The upper canopies, equipped with grooves, are attached to the door frame, and their lower parts with pins are welded to the door frame. Docking seams must be polished.



collected metal structure must first be cleaned of foreign particles (dust, chips) and treated with an anti-corrosion compound. The final chord is either tinting or decorative trim doors.

In order to understand in more detail and clearly how iron doors are assembled with your own hands, it is recommended that you first study the videos that clearly show the whole process from A to Z.

Assembly work on the installation of the door

A box is placed in the doorway and the structure is adjusted relative to the opening, all actions are carried out using a plumb line or building level.



Installation work on the installation of the door frame takes place exclusively with its geometrically verified location. Anchor bolts are used to fix the steel hinges to the wall. After that, you can hang the door leaf on the awnings.

Checking the correct installation: the iron door should both open and close freely, and the hinges should work smoothly and without undue effort.

Installing the lock and door handle

After installing the lock, the end sides of the crossbars must be rubbed with chalk and make marks on the door frame with them. In the marked places, holes are cut out - grooves for the crossbars.



If there is a need for additional protection lock, you should weld a corner of the desired length to the door leaf in those areas where the crossbars come out. Another way is to strengthen the door leaf in the place where the lock is mounted. For this, a 6 mm thick steel plate is welded on the inside. At this stage, it is recommended to adjust the operation of the locking mechanism and take care of the tight fit of the door to the frame.

Having studied detailed instructions manufacturing, you can understand how to properly make a metal structure. iron door with your own hands it is quite possible to assemble at home, most importantly, arm yourself necessary material and tool.

It's no secret that today such an element as an entrance metal door is not a luxury, but required attribute any residential premises, including a private house or apartment, as well as various administrative and office buildings.

Thanks to modern development technologies and the emergence innovative materials you can personally design any, even the most complex item needed in everyday life. The metal door was no exception: if you have some building skills, this element can be equipped on your own, thereby saving yourself from the need to overpay for installation already finished model. In addition, it is much more pleasant to equip a home on your own, without using templates. Therefore, it is necessary to consider in more detail how competently it should be. But first, you should pay attention to the list of advantages that this functional part of the house has.

The main advantages of a metal door

Thanks to the ability to use modern materials for insulation, this element can provide excellent protection against noise and against the ingress of cold into the room, which is especially important in cold climates. Insulated metal doors are a guarantee that you will not freeze in your house.

Another reason to create such an indispensable attribute of life with your own hands is an excellent appearance, which makes it possible to turn a seemingly standard part of the home into a unique and unique element with high aesthetic value.

Perhaps the main advantage of a metal door is its high resistance to burglary, coupled with the possibility of installing additional protective equipment(various limiters, etc.). This will completely protect the housing from the penetration of unwanted persons and save the nerves of its owners.

It is these advantages that are the key factors influencing the adoption of such a decision,

doorway measurements

As in any other business, you must first complete all necessary calculations. In the manufacture of such an element as a metal door, it is initially necessary to take measurements of the opening with your own hands. In accordance with them, the canvas and the door frame will be designed. At the same time, it is important to remember that it is extremely important to subtract 2 cm from all the parameters obtained during the measurement process. This small gap will subsequently make it possible to adjust and align the door in the opening. Measurements must be performed for the entire length and width of the desired hole, that is, starting from the base in the form of brick or concrete, and not from plaster. You have to do it this way, because finishing material can be applied in a thick layer, and if the calculation is incorrect, the parameters of the finished door may not match the real indicators of the installation site.

Tools and materials for work

The equipment required for a hand-made metal door device includes the following set of tools:

• table for welding;
• angle grinder equipped with a circle for metal;
• welding machine;
• screwdriver;
• drill with several drills;
• roulette and others measuring instruments;
• and screwdrivers.

As for the materials that the door will consist of, their set is as follows:

• metal corners for a box or a steel pipe with a square profile;
• sheathing material in the form of plywood, veneer, boards, etc.;
• metal sheet with a minimum thickness of 1.5 mm;
• door hinges;
• accessories (handle, locks);
• fasteners (self-tapping screws, bolts, etc.).

Door frame design

Doing it yourself is absolutely realistic, while all the work should start with making a box for it. This element consists of securely welded corners, which form its basis. It should be remembered that after mounting vertically and horizontally arranged parts, it is imperative to leave gaps that will be required in the future.

An angle or profile must be placed on the welding table square shape and crop it according to the desired parameters. The finished parts need to be laid in a rectangle and one more time to check all the parameters.

It is very important that all angles are strictly equal to 90 °, so you need to carefully study the indicators of the diagonals, measuring the distance from one end to the other. At the end of all calculations, you can start welding the door frame. At this stage, it is allowed to make slots in it for this. For this, a grinder is used.

When installing such an element as a metal door, do-it-yourself drawings must be made as correctly as possible so that the design is fully consistent with a pre-drawn project. Otherwise, the result of the work may turn out to be completely different from what was originally intended.

Door leaf installation

First of all, you should clearly determine the size of the potential canvas. To do this, you need to measure the parameters of the inside of the box and leave a gap of about 0.5 cm on each side. It is on the basis of these indicators that a metal door should be made with your own hands, the drawings for which, in turn, help to do all the work as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Next, you need to weld a frame consisting of corners, designed for the canvas. The process of its manufacture resembles in its actions the creation of a box. From the inside, parts of the corner must be welded to the frame at the same distance from each other. These elements will act as stiffeners.

The next procedure that should be performed when making such an element of a house as a metal door with your own hands is to cut a steel sheet. It must match the parameters of the frame, while it is extremely important to observe an allowance of 1 cm on each side, as well as 0.5 cm on the hinge side. This sheet must be welded evenly to the door base, while not forgetting to remove any burrs that appear and correct uneven seams with a grinder. On this, the manufacture of the door leaf can be considered complete.

Fixing a metal door on hinges

Welding these elements is required according to a special scheme. As a rule, one of the hinge parts, which has a special pin, is first attached to the box. The second part of it is fixed directly on the canvas. It is very important to pay attention to the drawing of a metal door, according to which it is necessary to correctly calculate all dimensions and measure the required distance for mounting the hinges.

It is necessary that both of these functional parts match perfectly. This will not only avoid distortion of the entire structure, but also improve its tightness and extend the service life.

When installing metal insulated doors, do not forget that for laying the insulation it is also necessary to leave some free space inside the canvas. This procedure will be more complicated, but such a measure will definitely protect the entire structure from the penetration of cold.

At the end of the installation of the hinges, if necessary, clean the seams, and then paint the finished structure.

Equipping a metal door with fittings

Thinking about how to make a metal door of the highest quality, do not forget that in order to create a reliable model Special attention worth giving this important business like mounting and fixing the lock mechanism.

For this work, you will need to purchase two samples of different types, which, during installation, must be positioned as conveniently as possible. It is very important that each of the elements of the castle fit the other, and the whole system interacts smoothly and easily. The drawing of a metal door, of course, cannot reflect this, but it will be much better if, during opening, the mechanism does not create unnecessary sounds (creak, rattle, etc.).

After that, it is recommended to cut out in the door leaf special hole, designed for mounting a good and modern door peephole with a wide viewing angle and, if necessary, closing. On this work with fittings can be considered finished.

Installation of a metal door in the opening

To insert a ready-made door structure into the opening, you will need the strength of at least two people, since it will be problematic to do this work alone. In addition, you need to pay special attention to the following points:

• The box must be geometrically even. It will be possible to perform all measurements using the building level.
• The design must be fixed securely and tightly.
• All gaps formed between the wall and the door must be sealed with foam.

The installation of a metal door is completed by another check of the reliability of the lock mechanism. In addition, you should make sure that the system opens easily and without any interference in the desired direction and closes just as easily.

A good addition to the aesthetic appearance will be the device as well as the design of its slopes. Such procedures will not only make the design more beautiful, but also increase it. specifications, improving thermal and sound insulation.

Working with such a modern and necessary attribute of the house as a metal door, with your own hands you can not only make the model itself, but also decorate it beautifully.

Here, as always, the design is based solely on the preferences and tastes of the owners, but one should not forget about such an important factor as operating conditions, since it is far from always possible to decorate different doors in the same way, due to some external factors: climate, building type, etc.

Alternatively, you can use veneer or MDF, polymer painting is also suitable. This type of finish, such as door trim with a special film that protects against external mechanical damage, is gaining more and more popularity.

One way or another, you can arrange a metal door in different ways, but the main thing is that this element clearly fulfills its functions and is able to serve for a long time and reliably.

Insulated metal door is not a luxury! This is a vital necessity in our climate. So, in the corridor there was a door made of solid wood. Its main disadvantages were the huge weight and the constant cold that passed through the cracks in the tree. This is at least not good. And in the end, it was decided to replace it with a metal one, moreover, insulated.

So, the manufacture of a metal door will be done by hand! Why exactly independent production? Everything is simple! The quality of both the metal itself and the insulation of cheap doors is questionable. I would not like to come home at one fine moment and find that you have been robbed by opening the door with an ordinary can opener. Or in the icy winter season look around the frozen door ... On the other hand, really quality doors cost money, and not a little. And there is no desire to part with a round sum either. Therefore, we focus on the manufacture of a metal door with our own hands. In this case, you won’t have to worry about quality and you won’t need large financial investments.

What are the requirements for this door? It should be light, not let in heat, have a lock. This is more than enough.

What tool do we need?

• Bulgarian, cutting wheel for metal and grinding;
• welding machine, electrodes 3 mm;
• hammer, chisel, core;
• screwdriver;
• tape measure, chalk;
• drill, drill 4 mm, 9 mm;
• file;
• square.

Material:

• corner with shelf 40 mm;
• corner with a shelf 25 mm - 1 m;
• rod 8 mm - 2 m;
• metal sheet 2 mm;
• insulation (polystyrene or cotton wool - basalt or mineral).
• lock;
• sheet QSB or OSB;
• wood screws 51 mm long;
• riveter, rivets 12 mm (diameter 4 mm);
• invoice handle;
• mortise lock;
• sealing tape.

First of all, we take measurements from the loot, we will also take it from the corner. In this case, its dimensions are 1880 mm * 840 mm.

Cut the corner to size.

Then, on the corners of a length of 1880, we measure 40 mm (shelf width) and draw a connecting line at an angle of 45 degrees.

We cut the corner and process it with a file, leaving no burrs.

We perform this operation with the remaining corners. Lutka fasten in the doorway. To do this, you will need self-tapping screws or dowels, depending on the material of the walls. We mark a long corner, we will mount it on 5 self-tapping screws. On each edge we make an indent of 20 mm, mark. We divide the corner in half, put a mark and retreat 470 mm from each edge, we mark the same.

We core the metal in the marked places, drill with a 4 mm drill. This is done with back side corner. Then flip it reverse side and remove the bevel. The diameter of the drill should be equal to the diameter of the head of the self-tapping screw, in this case 9 mm.

We turn to the manufacture of the frame of the door. We measure the wall thickness of the corner - 4 mm. The gap between the hatch and the door should be 5 mm on each side. It turns out that the width of the door frame is 840-4*2-5-5=822 mm. The height, in turn, is 1862 mm. Everything is done in the same way as in the case of the loot.

We clean the welding seam inside and outside the loot with a grinding wheel.

We weld the door frame in the same way.

We divide the door frame into 3 parts, put marks. We weld rods in these places, which serve as spacers and create a stiffener for the sheet of metal.

We cut a corner with a shelf of 25 mm into equal parts of 30 mm. Quantity - 14 pieces. We will have an OSB sheet attached to these corners. On a length of 820 mm there will be 4 corners, on 1860 mm - 5 pieces. We weld corner pieces. Don't forget to beat the slag.

Sealing tape should be taken with a margin. We cut 6 parts of 30 mm each, and glue them in the corners of the loot, as well as in the middle. This is done so that in the end the door fits snugly against the loot.

After that, we lay the skeleton of the door in the loot, grab the sheds (they can also be made with our own hands, more), and scald.

We remove the door frame from the hinges, mark the groove for the lock tongue, drill holes and bore it with a file.

We weld the plate under the lock and grab the lock to it at three points.

We put the sheet on the door, mark it, cut it off.

We will fasten the sheet to the skeleton with rivets. Since the thickness of the sheet with a corner is 6 mm, rivets should be taken with a margin. Their length is 12 mm. We fasten the sheet along the contour of the frame and at 4 points in the middle.

The outer part of the door is ready.

We turn to warming. We cut mineral wool into parts, adjust to the size of the door and stack.

We transfer the size of the inner part of the door frame to the OSB sheet, mark it out and cut it off with a hacksaw (it can be slotted). We drill holes for rivets, an overhead handle, we cut a groove for the lock handle. We rivet. We stick on the loot sealing gum. On this, the insulated metal door from the corner is ready. According to its characteristics, it is not much inferior to expensive purchased ones, but it costs much less.