Kitchen table with your own hands. How to make a kitchen table: ideas, materials, step-by-step instructions, photos and videos Large do-it-yourself kitchen table

Of course, today everyone has the opportunity to buy any furniture in the store, including a table. But why not make it yourself, with your own hands?

This is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In addition, you have the opportunity to make such a table that will ideally fit in size and appearance to the interior of your kitchen or other room.

In addition, do-it-yourself furniture is not only saving money, but also some kind of, but a reason for pride, since not every man knows how to make something these days.

What are the tables

If you decide from the boards with your own hands, then you need to figure out what types of tables are, and decide what exactly you need.

The simplest is an ordinary table with four legs, a table top and a frame. It will not be difficult to make it even for those who are not experienced in woodworking.

If you are experienced enough in this matter, you can make the dining table round or oval, decorate it with carvings, paintings, or burn patterns and patterns on the surface.

A more difficult option is from the boards. In fact, this is the same ordinary table, but rather thick and long crossbars are attached to its legs, on which seat boards are laid on top. So we get a table with benches on both sides. Such furniture is well suited for both the kitchen and for installation in the courtyard of a private house or cottage.

If the room has free space only in the corner, make a corner table that fits perfectly into this unoccupied space. It may not be as convenient to dine behind it as at a classic table, but you can put a TV, microwave or kettle on it - there will be enough space there.

Another interesting option could be a window sill table.

In fact, this is the same window sill, but significantly expanded and adapted, for example, for a convenient workplace for a schoolchild.

The advantage of this solution is that the table will be well lit for most of the day.

There is also a minus: sitting at such a table in winter, you will have to rest your feet on a very warm, even hot radiator, which is not very convenient.

Materials and tools

Buying everything you need to make a table with your own hands is quite simple and will not be difficult or expensive. The main material for the dining table is wood, or rather:

• Boards 25 to 50 mm thick, 100–150 mm wide, quite long.
  The thicker the material for the tabletop, frame and legs, the heavier, but at the same time, they will be more durable.
  Choose boards from good wood, without any defects.
• Bar. It is necessary for the manufacture of table legs, so choose thick enough and strong samples. The beam can be replaced with the same boards, if you arrange them with the letter "G", or use purchased aluminum table legs. You can also use balusters (curly carved wooden posts that support the railing on some stairs) as legs.
• Chipboard or plywood sheets, which can be used as countertop materials. Choose samples that are thick and strong enough to withstand daily stress.

As with the materials and Do-it-yourself tools and fasteners are easy to get, they are in most homes. If something is missing, you can buy it at the nearest hardware store.

• pencil, corner, roulette and ruler;
• jigsaw or hacksaw on wood;
• screwdriver with a set of nozzles and drills;
• plane, if it is necessary to pre-treat the boards from irregularities and defects;
• kit self-tapping screws, furniture bolts and nuts;
• sandpaper or Sander;
• varnish or stain, roller or tassel for processing the finished table.

Attention! When working with a jigsaw, always remember the safety rules and keep small children or pets away!

simple plank kitchen table

First we need to make a countertop.
There are several options here:

• Cut out a piece of the desired size from a sheet of chipboard or plywood using a jigsaw;
• Lay several fairly wide boards and subsequently fix them on the frame;
• Take a large number of relatively narrow boards, place them side up and glue them together with wood glue.
  The result is a fairly thick, heavy and durable countertop.

Stages of work

Step 1. Collecting from boards countertop.

Step 2 We make a frame from boards or their wooden bars. In size, it can be made equal to the tabletop or with a slight indentation, about 2–2.5 centimeters on each side of the table. Having fastened the parts of the frame with screws, connect the frame with the tabletop with them.

Step 3 After we with put together the frame and the tabletop, half the table is ready. It remains to make only his legs. If a timber is used for this, drill two holes in it for furniture bolts. Moreover, they can be made both on the one hand, one above the other, and on two different ones for more secure fastening to the frame.

Important! Carefully check the length of the table legs, they should not differ from each other. Otherwise, the table will stand unevenly and stagger. If you do not want it to spoil the floor material, fix rubber “shoes” at the bottom of the legs.

After that, make similar holes in the table frame and fasten the legs and frame with bolts and nuts. Also, the legs can be fixed from above, using screws, but over time, such a mount may weaken.

If you want to make table legs from boards, fold two boards into an “G” on the outer or inner corner of the frame and secure them with all the same furniture bolts or screws.

To prevent the legs from loosening, connect the folded boards together at the bottom and middle parts with screws or nails.

That's all, simple and reliable, do-it-yourself, ready!

Advice: Before proceeding, make a simple drawing, preferably from several sides. Constantly check the dimensions of the parts. Some parts of the same size can be sawn out at the same time if you fix the boards or timber with clamps.

pallet table

Wooden pallets are widely used in shops and warehouses as cargo pallets.

If you wish, you can get a few pieces for free and use them as a basis for making an original and unusual kitchen table.

If at least on one side the surface of the pallet is solid, then you no longer need to make a countertop, it is ready.

You just need to process it and, if desired, round the corners.

Note! Since initially the pallets are intended for warehouses, no one is engaged in their grinding and cleaning. Therefore, before making a table out of them, carefully sand them and remove all burrs. Irregularities and defects of the boards can be hidden with putty.

Stages of work

Step 1. Most of the pallets are open and there is plenty of space between the boards. distance, due to which to use the surface of the pallet as countertop not too convenient. There are two ways to solve this problem: either boards appropriate size and to fix with their screws between the boards of the pallet, or install a sheet on top plywood or chipboard.

Step 2 As for ordinary table, table legs from pallets can be made from timber or boards. The best thing fasten them with thick enough and strong pallet beam with nails, screws or furniture bolts.

To prevent the legs from loosening, connect them to each other with crossbars.

The table is an essential attribute of the kitchen interior. At the same time, it should not only combine style, beauty and comfort, but also be quite reliable. And what could be more reliable and durable than natural wood? The problem is that high-quality wooden furniture is not cheap, so not everyone can buy it for their kitchen. However, do not despair, because making a wooden table with your own hands is a completely feasible task for a person who is able to distinguish a screw from a nail and knows how to use a drill, a jigsaw and a grinding machine.

The choice of kitchen table design depends on several factors, such as the size of the kitchen, the number of occupants, and the interior design. If you look at the options that furniture manufacturers offer, then among the whole variety of designs, three categories can be distinguished:

• tables of medium size for 4-6 people;
• overall tables for a large family or receiving guests;
• practical folding tables for small kitchens.

A table in the kitchen should combine three qualities: aesthetics, convenience and practicality.

To make a kitchen table with your own hands, you need to have a product drawing on hand, the necessary set of tools and at least some woodworking skills. Below are design options for standard, large and small kitchens with photo instructions and a detailed description of each stage in the manufacture of a wooden table.

Rectangular baluster dining table

A rectangular design with a standard size of 1200x600mm is considered the most popular due to its practicality. This table can easily accommodate a family of 4 people. In addition, it can be installed both in the center of the kitchen (if space permits), or placed close to the wall in order to save free space.

schematic drawing

In order to make the wooden table more attractive, we will use balusters instead of straight legs. If there is no lathe at hand, then such legs can be ordered separately at the nearest furniture workshop.

Note! Balusters are figured pillars that are primarily found on the railings of stairs, balconies and roofs. However, the use of these elements in the manufacture of kitchen tables is also far from uncommon.

Drawing of a rectangular table on balusters

To assemble the product, you will need the following materials and tools:

• 4 finished baluster legs 720 mm high;
• furniture board 30 mm thick for countertops;
• board 20x100mm for the frame;
• wood screws about 30 mm long;
• drill (screwdriver);
• a circular saw;
• grinder;
• sandpaper of different grain sizes;
• building level;
• square;
• roulette;
• wood glue.

Step by step assembly instructions

A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of wood on balusters is made in the following sequence:

1. We prepare the cross members of the frame. To do this, we cut a 100 mm board into 4 parts (2 by 400 mm, 2 by 1000 mm), after which we remove the burrs and bring the surface to a smooth state with sandpaper or a grinder.

1. We take the balusters and connect them in pairs with short crossbars (400 mm), making a small indent from the edge of the leg (about 15 mm). Fastening is carried out by means of glue and screws, which are twisted at an angle from the inside of the board.

Tip! In order to prevent the appearance of cracks, it is better to pre-make holes for the screws.

Fastening the short crossbars to the legs

1. We connect the finished pairs of legs with long crossbars (1000 mm). The fastening algorithm is the same as in the previous step.

The final stage of mounting the table frame

1. After we have made the frame of a wooden table with our own hands, we move on to the countertop. If it comes to the kitchen, then it is better to purchase a ready-made furniture board. Although for a gazebo or cottage, where the requirements for the appearance of the tabletop are not so strict, it can be assembled from grooved boards.

Furniture board for countertop

1. The finished tabletop must be connected to the frame. To do this, lay it face down on a flat and clean surface, and evenly place the base with legs on top. The fastening of the crossbars to the tabletop is carried out with screws according to the same principle that was described in paragraph 2. However, in this case, you must be extremely careful not to drill through the countertop.

1. On this, the manufacture of a kitchen table with your own hands can be considered almost complete. The last stage is characterized by the process of grinding the surface, as well as the application of stain or varnish, the color of which is matched to the interior of the kitchen.

Note! The number of layers of varnish depends on the type of wood. Hardwoods, such as oak or hornbeam, do not absorb varnish well, so 1-2 coats are enough in this case. But for pine or spruce, you will need at least 3 layers of coating.

Wooden dining table with balusters

Wooden table for a large family

An oversized table at which you can dine with a large family or arrange a feast by inviting friends must have a reliable design. Regular four legs are usually not enough to hold a heavy tabletop. Therefore, it is necessary to take additional measures to strengthen the frame.

Product design

In this example, we will consider how to make a large wooden table for the kitchen with our own hands measuring 2337x978 mm (naturally, slight deviations in one direction or another are allowed).

Drawing of a large wooden table

Before starting work, lumber should be prepared for:

• supporting frame (38x90 mm);
• countertops (38x140 mm);
• support bars (19x64 mm).

You will also need the following tools:

• a circular saw;
• jigsaw;
• drill;
• screws (4x65 mm);
• drills (3 mm);
• furniture glue;
• pencil, tape measure, sandpaper.

Manufacturing steps

To make the table reliable and have an attractive appearance, you need to responsibly approach each stage. So let's get started:

1. We make parts for the future wooden table from the purchased lumber with our own hands:

• 2 upper transverse beams (38x90x978 mm);
• 4 legs (38x90x695 mm);
• 2 bowstrings (38x90x921 mm);
• 1 longitudinal lower beam (38x90x1575 mm);
• 1 longitudinal upper beam (38x90x1473 mm);
• 2 braces (38x90x772 mm);
• 7 blanks for countertops (38x90x2337);
• 6 support bars (19x64x432 mm).

We carefully grind all the details, achieving an absolutely smooth surface without burrs.

Important! The quality of polishing a wooden surface depends on the right grit of emery. For primary grinding, the grain size should not be larger than 200 µm.

1. We fasten the legs in pairs with each other using transverse beams (above) and a bowstring (below). We use two screws for each connection.

1. With the help of a longitudinal lower beam, we connect two bowstrings together.

Fastening of the lower transverse beam

1. We strengthen the structure with the help of the upper transverse beam.

Advice! In order for the beam to securely connect the two halves, in addition to screws, additional wooden dowels with a diameter of 10 mm should be used.

1. We cut the ends of the blanks for the braces at an angle of 45 degrees. After that, we attach both braces to the upper and lower transverse beams.

Fastening of the upper transverse beam

1. We connect the wooden boards intended for the countertop with the cross beams on the inside of the structure.

1. Additionally, we strengthen the countertop with the help of supporting strips. Make sure that they do not go beyond the dimensions of the table.

Strengthening the structure with support bars

1. If desired, semicircular corners can be made in the kitchen wooden table, which will give the product a more elegant look.

This option is suitable for a large kitchen or dining room, and for giving

Folding wooden table for a small kitchen

If there is not enough space in the kitchen to accommodate a large or medium-sized table, then you should look for a more original approach. One of these solutions is a folding table that is attached to the wall and is very easy to remove, freeing up the space occupied by itself.

Materials and tools

To make a folding wooden table for the kitchen with your own hands, you will need the following:

• furniture board 30 mm thick;
• wooden beam 20x60 mm;
• loops (6 pcs.);
• corner lamella (2 pcs.);
• wooden dowels;
• dowel;
• screws;
• drill;
• jigsaw;
• grinder or sandpaper;
• glue;

Assembly: step by step

Advice! Before starting work, decide on the place where the table will be installed. Since the design is attached to the wall, it is very important to take into account all the features of the future interior of the kitchen, so that later you do not have to rearrange, leaving unsightly holes from the dowels in a conspicuous place.

Do-it-yourself kitchen table assembly steps:

1. We prepare parts for folding legs. To do this, we cut the wooden beam into 8 parts: 4 with a length of 720 mm, 4 with a length of 320 mm. We sand each element, removing burrs.

1. Assemble two rectangular frames. The rails are interconnected by means of furniture dowels, under which it is first necessary to drill blind holes with a diameter of 8 mm.

1. We connect the finished frames with each other with loops. In addition, a narrow rail must be attached to one frame with the help of hinges, which will be attached to the wall.

1. We fix the frame to the wall with dowels, after which we install corner lamellas on the sides. It is important to arrange the slats in such a way that they do not interfere with the legs to fold.

Advice! Instead of corner slats, you can use any furniture corners of the appropriate size, matched to the color of the table.

Fastening the structure to the wall

1. From a wooden shield we cut out a tabletop measuring 900x600 mm. For a more effective look, the corners can be rounded. After that, all ends should be processed with a grinder.

1. We “separate” a piece 250 mm long from the tabletop, which will be attached to the wall structure. The two parts are connected to each other by means of loops.

1. We install the 250 mm part on the corner lamellas and connect the elements with screws.

The final stage of mounting a folding table in the kitchen with your own hands

1. You can ennoble the table at your discretion by applying stain, varnish or paint. But even in its original form, such a product looks very good.

Wooden folding table - an original solution for a small kitchen

On the Internet, you can find a lot of options for how to make a wooden table with your own hands. We looked at three of the simplest solutions for standard, large and small kitchens, the production of which is quite economical and does not require specialized machines and extensive experience in working with wood. For the manufacture of more complex structures, we recommend that you seek help from specialists.

Finally, watch the video, which shows how you can make a pretty decent kitchen table out of old wooden planks.

Video: do-it-yourself wooden table

Landscaping is an ongoing process. You build something, you improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put in the garden, and near the house, and also in. How to make a table for a summer residence with your own hands we will tell in this article using the example of finished projects.

Homemade table from boards from pallets

Dismantled pallets served as the material for this table. Naturally, you can use new boards. Only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (it costs more) or buy ordinary ones, put them somewhere in ventilated piles and soak for at least 4 months, or better, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.

We assemble the table for the street - put it in the gazebo, therefore we will not glue the tabletop boards, but fasten them from below, with the help of planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.

Having dismantled the pallets, we get boards with an individual color and pattern. Having conjured a little, shifting them several dozen times in different manners, we achieve the desired result. It turns out quite a nice table.

We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the frame of the table. We grind them first with coarse sandpaper, then finely bring them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).

We take the strips that remained unused, with their help we fasten the countertop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two self-tapping screws for fastening each board with a joint, one for a solid one.

From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also sanded), we assemble the table frame. We fix its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only their length is large. Under each, we pre-drill holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.

We turn the assembled countertop over and grind it. The order is the same - first with sandpaper with a large grain, then with a fine one.

Next up is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, adjust if necessary. Then again grinding. It's easier than sanding already screwed legs. We fasten the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each - two self-tapping screws fixed in a diagonal (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. About 10 cm can be left from the floor to the lintels. We connect everything with self-tapping screws so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.

After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but depends on the wood, so another sanding / painting cycle may be necessary. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.

If you do not like motley boards and traces of old nails, you can make their boards the same design. This table can be rectangular, maybe square. All dimensions are arbitrary - see the available space.

Country table from the remnants of the boards

This do-it-yourself table for giving is assembled from the remains of boards of different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide went to the frame of the tabletop, the remains of 15 * 50 mm were left on the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So let's make it not wide - 60 cm, and the length is 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).

We immediately cut off two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the width of the table top 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. Fold the frame, following the right angles, twist with screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.

We cut off the boards four boards of 80 cm each, fasten them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.

Approximately at the middle of the height of the legs we fasten the crossbars. This is a shelf frame. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.

We put the frame on the floor, check whether it staggers or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a grinder and grind.

Let's start assembling the countertop. From the finishing work there were boards of different types of wood, some of which were stained. We alternate boards of different colors.

We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them with a finisher. On the shelf can be fixed with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. Then smooth with a grinder. The last step is painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark, did not like the look. Will have to sand again and paint a different color.

Wooden table with glued top

This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case, 20 mm. To keep them well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws. Then, with a larger diameter drill, we drill recesses for the hats. The diameter can be matched to furniture plugs of a suitable color or made from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, traces will be difficult to find.

When assembling the legs, make sure that the angle is exactly 90°. As a pattern, you can choose a bar. First, we coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with carpentry glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two extreme ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue dries, sand the legs, varnish and dry.

It's time to make the tabletop. It is assembled from boards of the same thickness. Pick up the size you need. You can use fragments of different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and the sidewalls of the boards are even and docked without gaps.

We coat the sides of the boards selected for the table top with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, they managed one, but preferably at least three. We tighten so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. We leave for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished countertop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or a regular hand saw. Using a grinder is difficult to get a straight line, but you can try. After grinding, we get a beautiful countertop.

Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round countertop. It will only be necessary to draw the appropriate line and cut the glued boards along it.

To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin bar, process it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the countertop. Finishing nails can also be used. Only the planks are also pre-lubricated with carpentry glue, and then with nails.

After the glue dries, we again process the junction with sandpaper.

Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We fasten it to the back of the countertop with glue, then install furniture confirmations through the countertop. Under the confirmations, a preliminary hole is drilled with an extension for the cap. Holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.

We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We put them inside the frame. You can attach with ordinary screws. That's it, we made a table for giving with our own hands.

How to make a wooden garden table with benches

For this table, boards of 38 * 89 mm were used (they dissolved them themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters will not really affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.

To connect the parts, studs 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.

The parts are installed in place, a through hole is drilled with a drill. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and nuts are tightened. Everything is tightened with a wrench. How convenient is this option? For the winter, you can disassemble and take it to a barn or garage.

Making seats

According to the drawing, we cut the boards of the required size. Everything is necessary in double quantity - for two seats. We grind the boards, pay special attention to the ends.

We cut the short segments with which we fasten the three seat boards along the edges at an angle of 45 °. First, we assemble a structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, at the end we attach two short boards cut at an angle to it. Attach it so that this board is in the middle.

Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.

We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is a table for the street, it is not necessary to knock them down close. Leave a gap between two adjacent at least 5 mm. We nail to the supports (which are cut down), two for each board.

We fix the finished seats with four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with studs (if you walk, you can put two studs by setting them diagonally or one above the other).

Putting together a table

The table is assembled in a different way. Please note that for the countertop, the transverse boards are sawn along the edges at 52 °. We fasten them at such a distance that the legs enter. Each board has 2 nails. You can finish, with small hats, or you can hammer deep, and then mask the holes with putty.

Now we need to assemble the legs-crosses. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We circle the intersection with a pencil. At this point, it will be necessary to remove the wood by half the thickness of the board.

We make the same notch on the second board. If you add them together, they are in the same plane. We connect with four nails.

Similarly, we make the second leg for the table. While the table is not collected.

Installing the table

Now you need to fix the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We put them at an equal distance from the benches, fasten them with hairpins.

Now install the table top. We also fasten it with studs. The last step is painting. Here everyone does as he pleases.

Variations on a theme

According to this drawing, you can make benches and a table separately for giving, garden. The design is reliable and easy to implement.

Do-it-yourself table for giving: drawings

A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is fairly straightforward and understandable.

For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for an overly small kitchen. Buying custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up tools and design your own “work” on your own, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to show their creative abilities in the conditions of a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or gazebo of a suburban area. If you have the right materials and tools at hand, you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Tools for the job

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:

1. Planer, which level the wood and drive the parts to the desired size.
2. Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
3. Saws of various sizes and modifications, which are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
4. Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
5. Screwdriver Set.
6. Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
7. Sandpaper for grinding.

Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:

• An electric jigsaw will do all the work for which the various saws mentioned above were previously used.

Jigsaw rating

• The grinder will help to make the surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious manual sanding procedure.

• Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.

• will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes twisting each screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

• The building level will help to make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

So that the finished furniture does not turn out "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level

An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage

To make a similar country table - everyone can do it

Necessary materials

For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, not too many wooden blanks will be required. You need to prepare the following:

1. Timber, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
2. Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
3. Joiner's glue.
4. Board size:

• 1680×100×25 mm — 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
• 850×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (transverse frame details);
• 1580×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);
• 950×100×25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of a textured pattern, it is carefully passed from above with a grinder. Fine-grained sandpaper will remove the faded raised parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than the depressions.

Installation of a garden table

When all the details for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.

Frame or "box" of the table

• The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards 1680 × 100 × 25 mm in size and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. On the end boards, the location of the inner and outer boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection will be made by tie-in.

The connection of elements can be carried out in different ways:

Connection with the choice of "quarter" and using metal corners

- using a steel corner - this is the easiest and most reliable way;

- the tie-in method is a more complicated method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of tongue and groove connection

- “groove-thorn”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for beginners with no experience;

- dowel connection is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.

• All connections, as a rule, are carried out using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
• The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building corner and measure and compare the length of the diagonals.
• If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

• When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, cladding boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their fastening also needs to be marked, since along their edges there should be a distance for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also planted on glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be sunk into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

• The next step is the transverse sheathing of the tabletop with boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their fastening must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The worktop protrusion above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.

• Further, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also fixed to the end sides. In order for the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the screws will be screwed. In order to avoid cracking of the boards during installation work, it is necessary to drill through holes.

• After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly match the width of the table top.

The next step is to install the legs.

• The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
• The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. With this home-made putty, fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire countertop, and especially the places covered with “corks” of glue, must be sanded well.

• After that, the table can be varnished or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a country gazebo, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.

If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for the table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

1. Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally hit, so the table is quite safe for installation in the children's room.
2. The presence of a double-sided capacious bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
3. The table is equipped with a worktop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting at it, can do homework.
4. In addition, on the tabletop there is a place for a laptop or books necessary for studying.
5. If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if a soft cloth is laid on its surface.

Given all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions in a special article on our portal.

Necessary materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a comfortable piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the details that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

Scheme of the table with the assembly part numbers affixed (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

part number on the drawing	the name of detail	Quantity, pcs.	Part size, mm	Production material, thickness, mm
1	Folding table top.	1	600×600
2	Fixed table top.	1	600×475	Plywood 25 mm thick
3		2	530×30
4		2	120×30	Plywood 18 mm thick
5	The upper end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×30	Plywood 18 mm thick
6	Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop.	2	530×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
7	Groove element for the movement of the legs on the table top.	2	120×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
8	The lower end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of the table.	2	720x520	MDF 19 mm
10	The horizontal details of the pedestal, forming shelves.	3	520×312	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the pedestal.	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the pedestal.	1	312×184	MDF 19 mm
13	The middle horizontal part of the pedestal.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
14	Cabinet door.	1	477×346	MDF 19 mm
15	Cabinet shelf.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
16	The front panel of a drawer of a curbstone.	1	346×209	MDF 19 mm
17	The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front).	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
18	Drawer side panels.	2	341×250	MDF 19 mm
19	Back panel of the drawer.	1	272×120	MDF 19 mm
20	Bottom panel of the drawer.	1	341×272	MDF 19 mm
	Drawer handles and drawer doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg piece.	1	80×80×18	Plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile table leg.	1	Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture hinges for doors.	2	The size depends on the shape.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the gap under the pedestal.	2	20×300×5	Plywood 5 mm

The drawings show a drawing of the table, which can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)
Separate nodes of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electric tools will be required that are able to bring the workpieces to professional perfection.

Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-cabinet

It is worth starting the manufacture of the table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact pedestal.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or a circular saw, is to cut blanks for the countertop, 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm in size.
	Further, marking is carried out on a larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or you can make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or a circular saw with the appropriate compass attachment on it.
	Further, a milling cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will dock with the second part of the countertop even. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the countertop. Furniture hinges can have different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and circled with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special curly grooves are arranged in plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. In the finished holes, the loops are fixed with self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the two parts of the table top with hinges, in the middle of the panels, on their lower side, markings are made to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed by a milling cutter: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm - 1 pc., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the rails, are cut off at the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the legs along the formed channel. Then, to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the countertop, the parts are glued with carpentry glue. First, they are fixed with glue, and then the longest rails, having a size of 530 × 20 mm, are screwed with self-tapping screws, then the part 122 × 20 mm blocks the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but a greater width - they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places for screwing in the screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the tabletop. All elements must be processed to smoothness and perfectly evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made on a lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made. In extreme cases, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height to smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, with the help of a dowel and glue, a guide square plate made of plywood, measuring 80 × 80 × 18 mm, is fixed exactly in the center.
	Further, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with a water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured plywood pattern. After that, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of cabinets.
	The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out with a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be machined to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and provides reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. Holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case, the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before drilling, it is necessary to carefully mark out. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the door walls are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a comfortable position in height, a point is marked through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protect the material from the negative influence of the specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the nightstand. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on even bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the caps of the self-tapping screws after assembly will have to be masked with various compositions. The build process goes like this: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels and its location are marked with a pencil using a building corner. -Immediately, the location of fasteners is simultaneously outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, places for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, shelf-holder brackets are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels lubricated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - In the same way, non-removable jumper shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried out well. To make the cabinet more rigid, it is laid on its side and compressed with clamps for drying.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the drawer can also be done using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for mounting fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are smeared with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom.
	Between themselves, the sidewalls are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be drowned in wood, and the holes are sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another option for fastening can be furniture corners, which are screwed to the sidewalls from the inside with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners.
	When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then first, on the sides of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended, in addition to self-tapping screws, to fasten the panel to use glue: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together by four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the front panel, through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the cabinet and countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the countertop must be properly positioned. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg by 120 mm.
	Having fixed the countertop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table doors onto the self-tapping screws. Then a drawer is inserted, and shelves are installed on the shelf holders.
	When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or simply there is a great desire to prove oneself in carpentry, then do not put off self-production. Moreover, the assembly will not only be an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table is offered, which may well serve both at home and on the site.

Video: round table assembly example

And one more idea of ​​​​a kitchen table, which, if incorrect, will also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement independently:

Video: lightweight collapsible kitchen table

Regardless of the size of the kitchen, whether it is a spacious kitchen in a new building, a country house or a small one in a small family, the most important piece of furniture is the kitchen table. Various building materials are used today for the production of tables, for example, glass, metal, stone, plastic, wood. But of all these materials, wood is still used more often. If you want to save money, then the kitchen table can be made independently. In this scenario, you can save up to 70% of the cost of the table. But first you should work hard and take into account a large number of factors that we will consider together with you in this article.

Making important measurements and calculations

Before starting work on the manufacture of the kitchen table, it is important to make some calculations. Usually such tables are calculated for a specific number of people. As a rule, this number ranges from three to nine. But it is best to take into account a couple of extra places in the calculations, in case guests arrive. If you are hospitable hosts, then most likely you will need a large table that can accommodate up to fifteen people.

Important calculations:

• The working length for one person should be 60 cm. This figure is multiplied by the number of people. The resulting figure will be the perimeter of the future table.
• How exactly the table will be installed: in the middle of the kitchen, near the wall. In the first version, the table will be able to accommodate more guests.
• Will the table have drawers or other accessories.

Decide on the size and location. The optimal table width is 80-110 cm. If a narrower table is planned, then you will have difficulty serving. In the case of choosing an oval table shape, it is necessary to calculate the circumference. To do this, multiply the square of the radius by the number Pi (3.14).

Round or oval kitchen tables are necessarily located only in the center of the kitchen.

• Do not place the table near the stove.
• You can not put a table under the air conditioner.

It is equally important to decide on the shape of the table. Surface geometry can drastically change the look of an entire space. It directly depends on the shape whether it will be convenient to eat or not. Most of all, a rectangular shape with right angles is in demand. These countertops are great for square or rectangular kitchens. At the same time, it can be placed near the wall or in the center of the room.

Oval-shaped tables are also very popular. There are several valid reasons:

1. The oval table has an attractive appearance.
2. There is no need to go around corners. This is especially convenient when there are small children in the house.
3. An oval table is best suited for a formal meal.

There are a lot of advantages in favor of an oval shaped kitchen table. But in the presence of a large family, it is inferior to a rectangular shape. There are also round shapes, but with this option it will be inconvenient to take certain dishes. As for the oval table top, the ideal diameter is 140 cm.

So, when choosing the shape of the table, start mainly from your own taste. Moreover, remember that for a kitchen of 8 m 2 or less, an oval table will be impractical, as it will require a lot of free space.

We prepare drawings and tools

If you have decided on the size and shape of the kitchen table, then you can proceed to the next step - drawing up a drawing. It should display the required dimensions of the surface, legs and other elements. You should consider the method of fastening certain nodes. Consider, for example, a kitchen table that will have the following dimensions: 120x60x75.

Although such a table will be small, you can easily understand the principle of making such furniture using its example. In your drawing, you can resize the table according to your needs.

You will need:

1. Tabletop 1.2 × 0.6 m - 1 piece.
2. Cross jumpers 40 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
3. Longitudinal jumpers 100 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
4. Table legs 70 cm high - 4 pieces.

To build a countertop, you need to prepare boards of the appropriate size. Before starting work, you will need to consider the method of attaching important nodes.

First of all, you will need to collect all the necessary tools and materials:

• plane,
• hacksaw,
• electric jigsaw,
• screwdriver,
• sandpaper,
• ruler or tape measure
• square,
• pencil,
• circular saw,
• milling machine,
• file,
• clamps,
• paint brush,
• wood glue,
• polyurethane varnish: matt or glossy,
• solvent.

When everything is ready, you can get to work.

Assembly Guide: Countertop Requirements

As for the countertop, it is important to decide whether it will be sliding or not. For example, when assembled, the table can be used for cooking, and in a sliding state as a means for eating.

The countertop should not absorb odors and grease. Also consider practicality.

A good countertop should not absorb moisture, withstand strong impacts. The surface of the table should not be afraid of steam, condensate and high temperature. All these requirements are met by a countertop made of natural and artificial stone or covered with ceramic tiles. But it should be noted that such a table will look only in the interior of modern style.

One of the most common types of countertops is chipboard, laminated with film or covered with plastic. At the price of chipboard plates are available to many. Moreover, such material is the easiest to work with. Some may deny that chipboard countertops are practical. This is partly true, but with proper processing, it will last more than one year. Here are some recommendations and tips for working with chipboard countertops:

• The film or plastic should be rounded at the ends of the chipboard.
• Each 90° rounded end is treated with silicone.
• However, in this position, the end is vulnerable to moisture ingress, so it is better to wrap the end 180 °.

You should be objective and mention the disadvantages of such a countertop. If the chipboard swells, then there is no way to fix this problem. As a result, you will have to make a new table or at least a countertop. But, on the other hand, such a surface is resistant to aggressive detergents and mechanical stress.

Of course, if we talk about the most ideal and environmentally friendly option, then here the tree rightfully comes first. But in the care of such a surface is more capricious. Do not allow moisture to penetrate into the wood, allow scratches and other damage. Microbes can settle and multiply inside them, which adversely affect the mechanical strength of wood. Therefore, from time to time, wood countertops must be varnished, cleaned, and opened with a layer of wax.

leg requirements

The number of legs will vary depending on the shape and size of the table. For example, if you are making a table from chipboard, then 4 legs will be enough, which are attached to the corners of the tabletop. If you make strong wooden legs, then this design will be durable and strong.

Legs can be made by hand. To do this, you can purchase a ready-made sketch. The complexity of this work will depend entirely on the shape of the legs. If you think that this is beyond your power, then purchase ready-made metal legs or choose carved wooden ones. Everything will depend on your financial capabilities.

The table can be on one leg. As mentioned above, this will depend directly on the weight, shape and configuration of the countertop and the table as a whole.

The table, which has one massive leg, looks impressive and beautiful from the side. For its installation, a high-quality cruciform strapping is performed.

Two massive legs are located at a certain distance from each other. In most cases, a table with two legs is rectangular or oval. The advantage of such structures is that the legs will not interfere with any of the sitting people. As for the design of such legs, they expand at the bottom to increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsupport. Between themselves, they are connected by a jumper board.

But ordinary tables with four legs are simple in design and do not need precise and complex calculations. This table is stable and durable. The most important thing here is to choose the right size of the legs and mount them at the right distance. At the same time, tables on four legs can be very different in shape: oval, round, square, rectangular.

So, regardless of the number of legs chosen in your design, their aesthetics always remain the most important. The aesthetic appeal of the table legs is even more important than the beauty of the countertop. After all, the tabletop is always covered with a tablecloth or oilcloth, and the legs are always visible.

We build a folding table

One of the simple shapes of the kitchen table is rectangular. This design consists of four legs and six sidewalls of the box. The table top and sidewalls can be made from 18 mm chipboard, and the legs from a 40 × 40 mm bar. First you need to make plywood drawers, 2 cm thick (table legs will be attached to them), as well as two horizontal strips. It is on them that the removable part of the table will be placed. In our case, for the manufacture you will need to purchase the following material:

• Self-tapping screws 4×16.
• Self-tapping screws 4×50.
• Furniture corners 30×30.
• Laminated edges in the color of chipboard.
• Wooden dowels 8×40.

To make the table move apart, you can use standard guides. They provide smooth movement of the countertop. So, all the necessary parts of the following sizes are pre-made:

• Leg 710 mm.
• Two fixed parts 450×700 mm.
• Removable part 400×700 mm.
• For the box of the fixed part, there are four sidewalls 420 × 120 mm.
• For the box for fixed parts, two end 600 × 120 mm.
• From plywood, two side drawers 830 × 120 mm.
• From plywood, two end sides 498 × 120 mm.
• To accommodate a removable tabletop, two strips 498 × 120 mm.

With such blanks, you get a sliding table in size:

1. Extended 1300×700 mm.
2. Assembled 900×700 mm.

It is best to cut all the blanks on special equipment. This is important in order to accurately withstand all dimensions. All blanks made of plywood and wood should be carefully cleaned and varnished in two layers.

So, step by step instructions:

1. First of all, the side and longitudinal drawers are fixed on the outside of the legs flush with the ends. After that, with the help of self-tapping screws 4 × 50 mm, corners are attached from the outside and from the inside 4 × 16 mm. The corners are attached to the longitudinal tsargs through horizontal slats.
2. Further, a wide guide is fixed on the inside of the side tsarga.
3. Under the dowels, you will need to drill two holes on the inner ends of the countertop. They are attached for a collapsible connection, that is, one half will be free, and the second will be attached to the glue. From the dowel to the edge of the countertop, the distance should be equal, but not exceed 10 cm.
4. Two dowels are mounted on a removable table top. To do this, two holes are drilled on the reverse side.
5. At the next stage, it's time to assemble the U-shaped parts of the box from chipboard. In this case, the end elements 600 × 120 should be located between the sidewalls 420 × 120 mm.
6. Now screw on the narrow guides. This is necessary so that the chipboard box moves on average 2 mm higher than the plywood collet.
7. After that, the guides snap into place and are checked for movement along the drawer.
8. Attach the non-removable part of the tabletop using corners and 4x16mm self-tapping screws. Both parts must match perfectly. Therefore, just before attaching them, slide both parts and check their alignment. Then carefully push the drawers apart and secure the countertops.
9. On the shelf inside the table, place the removable part of the table top.

Folding table - an original solution for a small kitchen!

If your kitchen has a miniature size, then choosing the right shape for the kitchen table can be difficult. However, there is always a way out. For example, you can build a homemade folding table. When folded, it will serve as a decorative frame, and when unfolded, it will serve as a full-fledged dining table. Although in each case the size of such a table will be different, we will take our sizes as a basis. This will allow you to visualize what exactly your drawing will look like.

For work you need:

• MDF board 180 mm thick - 5 pieces,
• 150×90 cm,
• 130 × 10 cm - 2 pieces,
• 90×20 cm,
• 70×20 cm,
• holdfast,
• wood glue,
• acrylic putty,
• electric drill,
• drill for wood 3 mm and for metal 8-10 mm,
• sandpaper,
• acrylic paint for wood
• roller,
• masking tape,
• screws 3.5×30 and 3.5×16 mm,
• loops,
• screwdriver,
• two furniture bolts.

The whole process of work will not take you much time if you strictly follow the step-by-step instructions below.

1. Based on the set of material, the table will be made of MDF. Make drawings first.
2. The frame is built first. To do this, four smaller elements are attached to the largest board from below, using a carpentry vise. Every 250 mm, holes are drilled in the frame with a Ø3 mm drill, up to 3 cm deep.
3. After that, a hole is drilled with a metal drill Ø8-10 mm to a depth of 3 mm. In this way, it will be possible to deepen the heads of the twisted screws.
4. Further, carpentry glue is applied to the lower surface of the four frame elements, and after that, each element is applied in its place. Each of them must be well pressed with a carpenter's vice.
5. Mounting the frame on glue is not enough, so you should additionally fix it on screws.
6. At the same time, disguise the screw heads so that they do not spoil the overall look. To do this, you will need acrylic putty.
7. When the putty has dried, you can sand the surface of the decorative frame with sandpaper.
8. The ends of the countertops should be glued with masking tape.
9. Paint the surface of the frame with acrylic paint using a roller, and paint over the corners and edges with a brush.
10. Then screw the hinges along the short edge of the tabletop. From the edge must be at least 150 mm. Mark holes on the wall and drill for the dowel. Thus, the hinges will be screwed to the wall.
11. When the table is in an upright position, it will be held on top with latches. They should be fixed in such a way that they are not conspicuous, for example, at the edges of wall shelves.

Table from postforming table top in 5 steps

Such a table can be completed in the shortest possible time. To do this, you will need to first collect all the necessary material and tools. You will need:

• pencil,
• postforming tabletop,
• jigsaw,
• jigsaw file,
• Sander,
• edging,
• cutter,
• silicone sealant,
• rubber mallet,
• sharp knife,
• clamps,
• metal legs with holder
• hex key.

All work can be done in 5 successive stages.

Stage 1

Mark the front side of the table top with a pencil. The markup will match your drawing. Each rounding is performed with a radius of at least 60 mm. This will prevent the edge from discoloring at sharp bends.

Stage 2

Now you need to give the appropriate shape to the countertop. To do this, use a jigsaw. When cutting, it is recommended to leave a small backlog of 2-3 mm. Pay attention to the direction of the jigsaw blade. It must have a reverse direction of the teeth. This will avoid chips on the plastic coating. Although partially they can be hidden by piping. To accurately bring the dimensions and shape of the countertop, it is necessary to work on the ends with a belt-type grinder.

Stage 3

In the third step, it's time to mill the groove. Milling is always performed strictly in the center of the end face. And this is even regardless of whether the edging will exactly match the thickness of the table top or will be large. If you do not have a cutter with the exact dimensions of the edge groove, then you can go several times with a cutter that has a lower tooth height.

Stage 4

When the groove is ready, you can start stuffing the edging. To do this, the end face is pre-coated with silicone sealant. This will prevent water intrusion. Sealant is applied to the top edge of the edge. The edge itself is stuffed with a rubber mallet. The joint should be formed in the most inconspicuous place. When the stuffing is completed, it is important to make an exact docking of the piping. There is no way to do without a sharp knife. After that, you will need to remove the excess sealant around the entire perimeter of the countertop, which was formed when the edging was driven in.

When fixing countertops using clamps, it is important to use special gaskets. They are installed on the protruding edges of the edge and prevent their damage.

Stage 5

At the final stage, the legs are fixed. To do this, you should attach the molded holders to the underside of the tabletop. So that they are at the same distance, mark up with a pencil. From the edge of the leg should be at a distance of up to 10 cm. This holder is fixed with self-tapping screws 2.5 cm long with a countersunk head. Now it remains to make the final touch: fix the legs in the holder with a hex wrench. The dining table for the kitchen is ready!

As you can see, the table from the postforming tabletop is very simple and, most importantly, available for home-made manufacturing at home. To do this, you need to have basic carpentry tools. But there are also dangers to be aware of here. If handled carelessly, there is a risk of breaking the holder, which is made of fragile material. But if you carefully operate such a table, it will last for many years.

The choice is yours

We have considered with you several options for how to make a kitchen table. There are other technologies for its manufacture. In most cases, everything will depend only on your financial capabilities and ingenuity.

Video

This video shows an example of making a rectangular kitchen table with rounded corners. Balusters are skillfully used as legs: