Toilet bowl repair mechanism. Repair of a drain tank: main breakdowns and their elimination

Service "Center of Household Services" offers toilet repair inexpensively in Moscow and St. Petersburg with a guarantee. You can order a toilet repair and call the master around the clock, we will plumbing work any complexity quickly and efficiently.

A toilet bowl is a plumbing device in which, in fact, any breakdown is associated with a drain tank, since all the mechanics are concentrated in it. Therefore, in most cases, toilet repair is nothing more than restoring the cistern's performance. An exception is the formation of a leak at the point where the toilet is connected to the sewer.

Currently, hanging toilets are becoming more and more popular. common causes breakdowns - problems with the installation. The installation of a wall hung toilet bowl is a whole nodal complex, which consists of a frame for a bowl, drain tank and plumbing lines. Wrongly chosen and installed installation can lead to a lot of problems. But the flush cisterns of wall-mounted toilet bowls are not protected from the breakdowns inherent in floor-standing toilet bowls.

Our company offers to call the master and carry out the repair of the toilet bowl at any time convenient for you. Leave a request to the manager on the site, or dial the number and the specialist will quickly come to the call. We give a guarantee for the repair of a toilet bowl of any configuration and always try to maintain a trusting relationship with our customers.

Types of toilet breakage:

• Water is continuously drained into the toilet bowl (at the same time, the water consumption increases many times, and, consequently, the meter fee)
• Drain valve failure
• Failure of the water supply valve
• Water does not enter the tank (breakage of the inlet valves)
• Failure of the push-button mechanism (toilet buttons)
• Visible toilet leaks (a leak at the junction of the toilet with the sewer, a leak between the cistern and the toilet, or water is completely overflowing through the cistern lid)
• Different types of toilet blockages
• Formation of cracks in the bowl

Our specialists will always carry out:

• Toilet flush repair
• Toilet button repair
• Repair of the installation of the toilet (repair of the hanging toilet)
• Toilet lid repair
• Toilet valve repair
• Flush mechanism repair (toilet drain repair)
• Toilet fittings repair
• Toilet lift repair
• Toilet repair Gustavberg (Gustavberg, Sweden)
• IDO toilet repair
• IFO toilet repair, etc.

Our specialists will carry out repairs in Moscow and St. Petersburg in as soon as possible, according to all plumbing standards, with a guarantee of quality, and your home will be filled with its former comfort again!

Breakdowns of the drain tank happen quite often and are very diverse. In order not to spend money on calling a plumber, it is enough to study the device and the principle of operation of the fittings, and then independently fix any kind of malfunctions and carry out repairs in a matter of minutes using the simplest tool.

Typical device and main components

Modern models of drain fittings are compact, simple device and high maintainability. Although there may be slight differences in the layout of parts between manufacturers, two generalizing theses can be identified:

1. The vast majority of drain fittings can be easily disassembled by hand.
2. All devices use the same operating principle.

The drain valve consists of two assemblies: an inlet float valve and a drain valve. Inlet nodes can be calculated for the lower and top connection water hose, which determines only the location of the float and the scheme for transferring the locking force from it. Unlike older versions, where the float is made in the shape of a pear and is prone to loss of tightness, modern products are equipped with a double glass.

The drain valve is a vertical column located exactly in the center of the tank under the button. In the lower part there is an annular saddle, which is covered with an elastic cuff. The locking force is provided both by the own weight of the stem and by the mass of water in the tank. The opening of the valve occurs when the stem is raised, connected to the button by a rack or lever mechanism.

Intake valve malfunctions

If the inlet valve does not close tightly, water will gradually fill the tank until its level reaches the overflow hole. Outwardly, such a breakdown is expressed in the appearance of a leak not immediately after the cessation of the water supply to the tank, but some time later.

There are two variations of the execution of the locking mechanism: in the form check valve and simple cuffs. The second option is more reliable due to the simplicity of the device. In both cases, the principle of operation is extremely simple: when floating, the float raises a lever or rod, which, with the reverse shoulder, exerts force on the valve. The problem is that over time, the elastic cuff or rubber stopper takes the form of the counterpart, which does not contribute to high-quality locking.

Repairs cannot be made locally, so the inlet valve will have to be removed. It is mounted on a threaded bushing made of plastic. First you need to turn off the water supply tap and drain the water from the tank, then unscrew the drain button and remove the lid. Hand force to unscrew union nut, with which the entire valve structure is attached to the bushing.

The problem of any type of valve is on reverse side a small rocker connected to a rod or float arm. To make it easier for yourself, snap off the float drive and dismantle them by disengaging the drive lever from the rocker. Next, you need to remove the rocker itself, usually it is planted in two holes in the valve body with two pins: you just need to slightly bend the ears and get a miniature part. In the reverse action valves at the opposite end of the rocker there is a plastic cup, inside of which a small rubber plug is pressed in, resting against the water supply spout in the closed state. The cork can be pulled out and turned over to the spout with a flat side that does not have a development. If this operation was performed earlier, you can cut the cork to form two new even ends, and then fold and press the two rubber parts back into the glass.

In diaphragm valves, loss of tightness occurs either due to deformation of the rubber disk, or due to insufficient pressure exerted on the valve by the float. You can adjust the position of the glass and place it lower, it will also help to attach a foam cube to the bottom of the float. If it doesn't help, install a new membrane from the repair kit. The simple shape of this part often allows you to make it yourself from a piece of a car camera. Do not forget to thoroughly rinse the device from limestone deposits and rust before reassembling the device.

Restoring the function of the drain valve

The entire drain mechanism is easy enough to remove after removing the cover, just turn it upper part counterclockwise until it clicks (1/2 or 1/4 turn). The tightness of the drain hole can be restored in several ways. If the valve membrane has a symmetrical shape and is noticeably deformed (the edges are bent upwards), it is removed and installed back on the other side. Previously, it will not be superfluous to restore the elasticity of the rubber by holding it for several minutes under running hot water.

If the membrane cannot be turned over or it makes no sense (the edges are even), most likely the insufficient tightness of the valve is due to a low degree of pressure. It can be recommended to increase the vertical stroke of the rod, for which you need to carefully examine the place of its landing in the glass outer case. Usually, the downward movement of the stem is limited by lateral ribs or other formations on the outside of the tube. The recipe is simple: with a file or a knife, you need to sharpen the stops by 2-3 mm. The second way is to increase the weight of the piston, for which several large nuts are attached to its upper part or wrapped with 10-20 turns of thick copper wire.

A loose diaphragm in the seat can be the result of limestone or organic deposits both on the rubber disc itself and on the mating part. Use the rough side of the sponge and a small amount of dish detergent to remove green organic deposits. To remove limescale, use a special cleaner or regular vinegar. In order not to disturb the planting density, it is better to abandon the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bscraping off the deposits with a knife.

Button and mechanism repair

The valve stem lift mechanism is the least problematic thing, although there are problems with it: jamming, insufficient travel, or simply no action on the stem.

In older versions of the armature, a not very convenient and not the most reliable scheme was used: the button pushed the gear rack, which rotated the gear with a long lever attached to it. The membrane was lifted through a chain attached to the end of the lever. The elimination of problems was solved by a higher tension of the chain, the teeth on the rail also worked out over time, and it had to be turned upside down.

Modern drain valves use predominantly a lever mechanism, which is practically trouble-free. The only problem can arise from poor alignment: after installing the cover, you need to make sure that the threads on the drain valve body are located exactly in the center of the hole. If this is not the case, the position is corrected by moving the upper thrust plate of the microlift a few clicks in the desired direction.

Leak repair

In some situations, the appearance of water on the floor may be due to a leaky fit of the tank on the toilet shelf. First you need to wipe all surfaces dry and find out exactly where the leak has formed.

If, during an external examination of the inside of the tank, the presence of rust on the bolt heads was noted, most likely this was the cause of the leak. It is necessary to drain the water from the tank and unscrew the plastic nuts from the bottom side. After that, the bolts are replaced with new ones, if necessary, also replacing the sealing washers. To protect the bolts from corrosion in the future, you can cover the caps with ordinary enamel or sealant, but do not use silicone for this purpose.

Leakage can also be caused by a loose drain valve seat nut. The tank will have to be removed completely and assess the condition of the sealing rings, as well as the sealing gasket under the tank. In the presence of cracks or loss of elasticity, these elements must be replaced with new ones.

Full valve replacement procedure

In cases such as the destruction of reinforcement parts or severe wear seats parts of the mechanism, only a complete replacement of the armature can be recommended. The whole process will take about half an hour:

1. Shut off the water supply and drain the tank.
2. Unscrew the button and remove the cover.
3. Loosen the inlet valve nut and snap off the top of the drain mechanism by turning it counterclockwise.
4. If an identical set of fittings is used for replacement, it is not necessary to replace the lower parts.
5. If it is necessary to replace the lower part of the drain valve, remove the tank mounting bolts.
6. Unscrew the wide clamp nut from the underside and remove the lower part of the drain mechanism.
7. Install a new seat, fitting the threaded socket with O-rings on both sides.
8. Fasten the tank in place.
9. Install the new intake and drain valves, center the neck under the button, and complete the reservoir assembly.

The toilet cistern breaks down quite often, but not everyone wants to repair it and call a plumber. Meanwhile, the device of the tank is very simple, and it will not be difficult to repair it, having the simplest set of tools in the house.

Toilet flush tank - how it works

The device of the toilet cistern is not too different in different designs. They operate on the same principle, they consist of two main elements: a mechanism that provides water supply, and a flush device. Tanks at the installation site are available in three types:

• compact, mounted on the bowl itself (Fig. 1);
• built into the wall - used mainly with suspended structures(fig.2);
• suspended, fixed at a certain height and connected to the bowl by a drain pipe (Fig. 3).

The compact cistern is located on the rear shelf of the toilet and is activated by pressing a lever or button. The self-contained tank is hung on the wall and connected to the bowl with a pipe. The drain has a chain that you need to pull. The hanging toilet is attached to the wall, and the tank is hidden behind it. It differs from the usual in appearance and design. Performed as a high-strength polymer container flat shape. There is a button on the wall that is pressed to flush.

Supply and drain system - device and operation

Water is supplied to the tank according to one of the schemes: side supply or bottom. For tanks with lateral water supply, a simple mechanism of two units is used: a membrane in the body, the purpose of which is to let water into the tank and block its flow, and a float connected by means of a lever to the body. It lowers and rises along with the level, the lever drives the membrane rod, which regulates the flow of water.

The device is simple and reliable, mainly domestic production, but the water makes a lot of noise when typing. In more expensive models, operating on the same principle, in order to reduce noise, a pipe is used through which water is supplied to the bottom.

In tanks with a lower intake, the system is somewhat more complicated, but less noisy. The movement of the float does not occur freely in the tank, but along the rod, but the principle of operation is the same. In an empty tank, it descends, and water begins to flow. When a certain level is reached, the valve closes the hole, and the flow stops. The fittings are adjusted to a volume of 5-7 liters.

The drain mechanism is implemented in different options. It is triggered after a person touches the handle, presses a button or jerks the chain. Expensive toilet models are equipped with two buttons. One can drain part of the water, saving it in this way. In the event of a malfunction of the float mechanism, the tank has an overflow. The drain device consists of a siphon and a manual drive. When a person activates the drain, the locking device opens. The toilet is flushed with incoming water and drained into the sewer.

Most modern toilets use top flush. The most common option is with a rubber pear. It works very simply: we press the button on the tank, under its influence the pear rises with the lever, the water drains. Instead of a button, a handle or chain can be installed. The system is even simpler: just pull, and the pear will open the drain.

Common breakdowns - solutions

Malfunctions are externally manifested by continuous filling or leakage of water. The reasons lie in the misalignment of the float, the failure of its mechanism, the shut-off valve, in which the seal has become unusable, or it does not fit snugly against the nest. A skewed float is enough to correct. Do the same with the valve when it does not fall into place.

There may be a problem with constant overflow, when the shut-off valve does not shut off the water, often due to the fault of the float. To check the mechanism, we raise it to the very top. If the flow has not stopped, you will have to change the float assembly. The reason may lie in the valve seal. Over time, the rubber ages, cracks and no longer blocks the entrance. To check, we press it with our hand, if the water stops flowing, we change the seal.

Over time, the float wears out, the tightness is broken, and it can no longer stay afloat. Then there is not enough water in the tank. In this case, you can replace the fittings or use another method. Places of leaks in the float are sealed with any available material. You can heat the plastic, apply a sealant, or seal the leak with a suitable adhesive.

There are times when water does not enter the tank. Most likely, the narrowest part of the valve is clogged. We act in the following way. We release the water and remove all the insides. A narrow passage for water to enter becomes available. We clean it with a wire or a needle. At the inlet, open the valve and rinse from the remnants of clogging. After the start of the normal flow of water, we block it and put the mechanism back.

Constant leakage of water is caused by a loose fit of the pear to the saddle, repair is required. To check, press it with your hand. If the leak has stopped, the cause is identified correctly. To eliminate the malfunction, we attach a small load on top of the pear so that it provides a snug fit. But if the pear is worn out, even pressing with your hand does not block the leak, you need to replace it. After fixing the float at the top, unscrew the nut connecting the tank and the drain pipe, remove the mechanism. We remove the pear and install a new one.

Changing parts - how to install and adjust

Sometimes there is no other choice but to replace the cistern parts. First, turn off the water, remove the cover and inspect the mechanism to detect defects. In expensive tanks we see several (possibly one) holes of small diameter through which water flows. The valve diaphragm is installed in one hole. Its condition is very dependent on the quality of the water. To prolong its life, a filter is installed: the better, the longer it will last. If the water supply does not have a filter, we change the expensive mechanism to a simple domestic one.

The drain tank is easy to repair by replacing parts. To repair expensive models, it is enough to buy a repair kit consisting of a bushing and a membrane. These are the parts that fail, the rest serve long years. To change the drain mechanism in the tank of cheap models, it is better to replace all the parts at the same time, they are not very expensive. The main thing is not to make a mistake with the diameter of the pipe, to know which one is suitable for a particular tank. Pipes are available in metric or inch sizes.

After replacing parts, we check the supply and discharge of water, its quantity. If necessary, adjust the mechanism. The tank of the old system with a side entrance is simple: it is equipped with a float, the lever of which is an ordinary wire. We change the water level by simply bending the lever. We bend upwards - the amount of incoming fluid increases, downwards - decreases.

Modern side-feed systems use plastic instead of wire for the lever. It will not work to bend it, so we carry out level control by moving the float along the lever. It is fastened with a thread or a latch, which we press out before adjusting. To increase the volume, move closer to the valve.

Bottom-feed designs are easier to adjust. There is a limiter in the tank - a plastic rod that goes from the float to the lever. We lengthen it or shorten it by unscrewing the plastic nut on the limiter.

Bottom supply - some features of the models

Tanks with a side supply are more common, but in some cases it is more expedient to use a bottom supply. It looks more aesthetically pleasing less space. Breakdowns are common, like all tanks, but the methods of elimination are somewhat different. Water can continuously flow into the tank due to low pressure in the plumbing. The diaphragm valve does not work, and the solution is to replace it with a stem valve, which is independent of pressure.

Incorrectly working drain, insufficient or excessive filling of the tank are more often due to the incorrect position of the fittings when it touches the walls. We adjust the position so that the reinforcement moves without touching the walls. If the water is drained through the overflow, the float must be adjusted by tightening the screw.

The most common problem with bottom lined cisterns is leakage at the connections. When the tightness is broken, we restore it by applying plumbing sealant or changing the gasket.

We pull up threaded connections very carefully so that some part does not crack from excessive zeal.

Pushbutton drive - the most common problems

To remove the top of the tank with one button, unscrew the retaining ring around it. Do not press hard, they are often plastic and can break. In addition to the problems with the membrane and the pear, which we have already talked about, the destruction of the bolts holding the pear seat is possible. We unscrew the nut between the valve and the liner, the bolts that attract the shelf to the toilet. Slightly tilt the tank forward and take out the cuff. We change the bolts in pairs, even if one is in good condition. The material for them is brass or stainless steel.

We remove faience from under the saddle of the pear, carefully clean it, and also clean the surfaces of the shelf and tank. If we do not change the pear, we lubricate with sealant so that it sticks to the saddle. We assemble the tank and tighten it with new bolts without distortions. Checking the work Special attention places of possible leakage.

If the buttons do not work, they either sink or the lever mechanism is disconnected. In this case, the cover is removed, and the mechanism is installed in the desired position.

Perhaps the main sign of comfortable housing, along with electricity, running water and gas, is the presence of a toilet. But any equipment eventually ages, breaks down and needs repair. The toilet cistern is no exception and also breaks. This most often manifests itself in the form of water leaks into the toilet bowl or, even worse, onto the floor. toilet room. It happens that drain tank it just won't fill up with water. These malfunctions are typical for expensive and sophisticated toilet bowls, as well as for the simplest ones.

But regardless of the price of the toilet bowl, the mechanism of operation and the device of all toilet cisterns are the same. The tank consists of only two fittings, shut-off and drain, which differ only design. Having dealt with the mechanism of operation of these nodes, almost any House master without waiting for the plumber, and when minimal cost(gaskets and other spare parts will have to be bought) will be able to independently repair the compact by eliminating the leak.

The principle of operation of the compact toilet bowl

The most common failure of the drain tank, consisting in the leakage of water. Water may leak into the bowl of the toilet or where the cistern is attached to the platform of the toilet bowl. When leaking into the bowl, irritating yellow stripes rust that has to be removed regularly. This small stream will shed more than one hundred liters of water in a month. If a water meter is installed in the apartment, then in addition you will have to pay for wasted water.

Before embarking on an independent repair of the toilet cistern, you need to have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe operation of its components. Consider the device and mechanism of operation using the simplest, classic drain device as an example.

The principle of operation of the drain device

The drain tank is a free-form ceramic, plastic or metal container with a lid made of the same material. To release the water on the tank, a button or handle is connected to the trigger mechanism.

In standby mode, the drain tank (in the photo below on the left) is filled to a predetermined level with water, the rubber pear of the drain mechanism is pressed tightly against the saddle by the elastic side surface along the ring. As a result, the drain hole of the tank is tightly closed.

Depending on the device of the trigger mechanism, if you pull up on the handle or press it, then the force will be transmitted through the rod to the pear, and it will rise up. The drain hole will open (pictured above on the right) and water will flow into the bowl.

It would seem that if you remove your hand, the rubber pear will return to its place and block the water. But it doesn't, and here's why. Please note that the pear is hollow inside and there is always air in it, creating lift. When the tank is full, the force of the water column is greater than the lift of the air in the bulb, so the bulb fits snugly against the seat. But when the pear is raised, the column of water becomes small, and in addition, the water rushing into the drain hole pushes the pear out. Therefore, it floats in the water until almost all the water has poured out. In order to prevent water from entering the cavity of the rubber pear, and the pear itself correctly “sits” in the saddle, a guide tube is provided.

In modern cisterns, to simplify the design, the overflow tube runs through the center of the pear. In this case trigger mechanism equipped with an additional float with a latch. If the pear is raised, then until all the water from the drain tank has poured out, an additional float through the lever fixes the rubber pear in the raised position.

Over time, even if the drain mechanism works properly, the pear rubber loses its elasticity, as a result of which, at the point of contact with the saddle, it wears out, cracks, and loses its shape. In this case, the tightness of the pear to the saddle is broken, and water begins to seep through the resulting gap.

This is the most common cause of a leaking toilet. To repair the drain tank and eliminate the leak, the pear must be replaced, but you can try and repair it. But the rubber pear may not fit snugly to the saddle for other reasons, for example, if dirt has stuck to the saddle or the trigger mechanism is stuck. In any case, to eliminate the leak, the drain tank must be disassembled.

Toilet cistern drain repair

To get to the inside of the drain tank, you need to remove the cover from it. The lid is usually not fixed by anything, and to open the drain tank, it is enough just to lift it up. If the trigger handle is in the center of the cover, it will not allow the cover to be removed. First you need to remove the handle, for which you need to pull the handle up, take the stem with one hand and unscrew it with the other, turning it counterclockwise. If the strength of the fingers to hold the stem is not enough, then you can use pliers.

After unscrewing the handle, the cover can be easily removed. Approximately such a picture will open before your eyes, as in the photo. You will be surprised by the amount of rust, it is always found in drain tanks in abundance. Rust eventually falls out of the water and settles on the walls of the tank and mechanisms at the points of contact with water. Rust does not interfere with the operation of devices, but if the layer is thick, then it is better to remove it by wiping the surface with a rag. Remaining thin layer rust may not be removed.

After removing the cover, first of all, you need to pay attention to the serviceability locking mechanism. The float should be no more than half submerged in water and the water level should not reach the level of the drain tube. The drain pipe is just installed so that in the event of a malfunction of the locking mechanism, water cannot flow over the edge of the drain tank and flood the apartment. Excess water drains through this tube into the toilet bowl. If the water level is normal (this is clearly visible from the rust line on the walls of the drain tank), then the cause of the toilet leak is in the drain device.

In order for the water not to interfere with the repair, you need to turn off the general water supply tap or fix the float of the locking device in the upper position using any rod, a little longer than the width of the drain tank.

Depending on the design of the overflow device, pears are of two types. Pear-float and pear-valve. As you can see in the photo, on the pear on the left in the center there is a threaded hole into which the stem is screwed. On the pear on the right in the center there is a through hole through which the water is drained in case of overflow of the tank. For the same hole, the pear is simultaneously attached to the rod, which is a tube.

In order to remove the pear-float for inspection, it is necessary, holding the rod, to unscrew it, and the pear will be released. To get to the pear-valve, you need to take hold of the plastic ring that secures the base of the trigger mechanism and turn it counterclockwise. The pear will become available for inspection. In the photo, a new pear-valve is already installed on the drain mechanism.

When the pear became available for revision, you need to carefully examine it along the perimeter of contact with the saddle. There should be no pits, bumps, cracks on the rubber surface. Rubber should be elastic, with slight pressure with a finger, bend. If the rubber is covered with a layer of rust, then there should be no rust along the contact ring with the seat. If a strip of rust is found, then water oozes in this place. Such a pear must be repaired or replaced.

In the photo - a pear, which has the above defects. It was replaced due to water leaking from the cistern into the toilet bowl.

Another confirmation of water leakage due to a pear can be the presence of a rusty layer on the saddle of the drain mechanism. This means that the pear does not fit snugly, and water seeps into this gap. Dirt can stick to the saddle surface. Therefore, before assembling the drain mechanism, it is imperative to thoroughly wipe the surface of the saddle at the point of contact with the pear.

The pear on the trigger rod is held by four latches, and considerable effort is required to remove it. To make it easier to remove the pear, you need to press it down from one edge and, when it jumps off the latch, it will then be easily removed from the others. Here it is necessary to pay attention to the contact surface of the inner hole of the pear with the rod. On the stem, where the pear is planted, there should be no traces of rust. As you can see in the photo, the pear sat tightly on the stem, and there are no traces of rust.

When the new pear was put on the rod and the drain device was assembled, it was found that the outer diameter of the new pear was larger than the old one. The new pear clung to the guides of the drain device with its edges and moved with difficulty. I had to grind the edges on an emery column.

It is possible to adjust the size of the pear by rubbing the rubber, driving and turning the pear on coarse sandpaper, but this will take a lot of time. The rubber is soft and does not wear well.

After assembling the drain mechanism, you need to release the float, wait until the drain tank is filled with water, and check the result of the work done. In this case, it should be taken into account that water enters the toilet bowl through the guide cavities, which are wetted when the water is drained, and for some time the water from the walls of the cavities will drain and leave a trace in the toilet bowl. Therefore, the conclusion can be made 15-20 minutes after the descent of water.

It also happens that after replacing the pear, the water still oozes a little, because the new pear still has to get used to the saddle, and at first it can let water through a little. After several tens of descents of water, the pear will rub against the saddle and hold water tightly.

Recovery pear locking mechanism

During the next repair to eliminate a leak in the toilet, I could not find a suitable new pear to replace it in plumbing stores. I had to figure out how to repair the worn one.

If the pear of the locking mechanism is still elastic, but irregularities have formed on its surface, then it is easy to restore it with an electric drill.

Since the pear in the center had big hole, then the question arose of fixing it in the drill chuck.

For fixing, it was necessary to take a bolt with an M10 nut and two washers, with an outer dimension exceeding the diameter of the hole in the pear.

After that, the pear was clamped by the bolt in the drill chuck, and the drill was started at low speed. With a lightly pressed sandpaper medium grit to the surface of the pear, it was sanded.

After grinding, the surface of the pear became matte without traces of scratches and irregularities. Installing it in the toilet showed that the water from the drain tank did not seep into the bowl.

The mechanism of operation and repair of the locking device
toilet cistern

To fill the toilet cistern with water to the required level, locking devices are used, which, according to the principle of operation, are membrane and lever (they are also called piston). In modern drain cisterns, membrane ones are mainly installed, as they are simpler in design and more reliable. But they have significant disadvantage, clog when small particles of dirt get into the water, therefore, they require the installation of a fine filter at the inlet of the water supply. Currently, the vast majority of drain tanks in operation are equipped with lever locking devices.

The principle of operation of the locking device

The task of the locking device is to automatically maintain the water level in the drain tank. The easiest way to solve this problem is to use a float, which is a sealed container filled with air. The float, floating on the surface of the water, with the help of a lever rigidly connected to the locking mechanism, controls the water supply. In my toilet, it has been working flawlessly for 17 years (after prevention), which was in use before installation, it is not known how many years, a lever water shut-off device made of brass.

The mechanism of the locking device consists of a cylindrical body, which is a hollow tube in the form of a tee. One side of this tube, leaning with a flange into the wall of the drain tank through a rubber gasket, goes beyond its limits, is fixed on this wall with a nut, and then, using a thread, is connected to the water supply network.

The housing contains a movable piston, which is a metal or plastic cylinder. In one of the ends of the piston, a round recess is made (in the drawing on the right), into which a rubber gasket-valve is inserted with an interference fit. At the opposite end, a sample is made into which the float lever cam is inserted. The body also has two coaxial holes for installing the axle, on which the float lever is movably fixed.

The locking mechanism works as follows. When the drain tank is empty, the float sinks to its bottom, the float lever, following it, rotates on the axis and the lever cam moves to the left, presses on left side selections in the stem and the stem also moves to the left. The rubber valve opens the way for water. The drain tank starts to fill.

The water level in the drain tank grows and with it, thanks to the float, the lever, turning clockwise on the axis, presses the cam on the piston and moves it to the right. The rubber valve rests against the filling tube, and the water path is blocked. In this state, the locking mechanism is located until the next descent of water.

Malfunctions and repair of the mechanism of the locking device

When fixing a leak in the drain tank, after removing the cover from it, first of all, you need to make sure that the lever locking mechanism is working. The float should float freely in the water, immersed in it by about half, without touching the walls of the drain tank. If the float is heavily immersed in water, then water has entered it. The fact is that the float is mounted on the lever with an interference fit without sealing. When filling the tank with water, part of it flows along the lever, and it happens that water penetrates into the cavity of the float.

To remove water from the float, you need to turn it off the lever and shake out the water. If it is not possible to shake out the water, then you can remove it from the float by sucking with a rubber pear with a thin tube put on its end. To prevent re-entry of water into the float, it is enough, when the float is removed, to put on a damper made of rubber or plastic on the lever, as in the photograph.

When the float is removed from the lever, you need to carefully examine its surface, it is quite possible that water got inside through the crack that formed. If a crack is found, then it can be melted with a soldering iron.

If the cistern side valve is leaking water

If the float is in order, and the side valve of the drain tank passes water, then the rubber valve in the piston has worn out and the water does not completely shut off. It is necessary to remove the piston and replace the rubber valve. If there is no ready-made rubber valve at your disposal, then it can be cut with scissors or cut down with a notch from a piece of rubber of a suitable thickness.

In order to get to the rubber valve, you need to remove (if installed) the plastic cover from the end of the water supply mechanism housing, remove the axle holding the float lever, and remove the valve by shifting to the left. Usually, an automobile stud is used as an axle, which is a semicircular double steel wire bent to a widow. Such axles rust over time, the float arm falls off, and water begins to pour into the tank continuously. This is another one of the malfunctions of the locking mechanism.

For reliable operation it is necessary to replace such an axle with a brass screw with a nut, and then the axle, if necessary, will be easily removed and serve without fail. I did so.

At the end of the repair of the locking mechanism, it is necessary to check the level of filling the drain tank with water. If you have a water meter, you can adjust the level according to its readings. For a full flush, 7-8 liters of water should be poured into the tank. If not enough water is poured, then you need to bend the lever in the middle with an arc to the bottom, if more than necessary, then arc up. Here you can save money by adjusting the minimum necessary and sufficient amount of water pouring with a lever.

In practice, I have not encountered membrane-type locking devices, but according to plumbers, they cannot be repaired, and in the event of a breakdown, they are replaced entirely. The main thing here is to find the right one for your cistern. When buying a membrane-type locking device, warn the seller about a possible return or replacement. Usually sellers go forward.

Checking the overflow device of the drain tank

When repairing a drain tank, it is imperative to check the correct installation of the height of the overflow device. In cisterns with lateral installation of locking devices, for convenience, it is possible to mount a locking device, both on the right side wall and on the left. To do this, the drain tank has holes with a diameter of about 20 mm. One is closed with a locking device, and the second is free, not closed with a plug.

If the level of the overflow pipe is higher than the lower edge of the above hole, then in the event of a malfunction of the locking device, water will not flow into the toilet bowl, but onto the floor.

I once encountered such a case in practice. locking device the neighbor visually worked fine, but periodically there was a leak of water from the tank to the floor. Plumbers were called repeatedly, but they could not find the cause. Ultimately, it turned out that the end of the overflow pipe was higher than the level of the side hole, and when the water pressure increased at night in the water supply, the valve of the locking mechanism could not completely retain the water. The drain tank overflowed, and water flowed through the side hole onto the floor.

If it is not possible to adjust the height of the level of the drain device, then you can simply grind off its plastic neck with a file to the desired height.

It happens that checking the drain device showed that it was installed correctly and the water level could not reach the height of the additional side hole, and there was a puddle on the floor under the tank. Water may still leak through the holes in the tank through which the toilet is bolted to the toilet seat due to wear. rubber gaskets, put on the fixing bolts . It is necessary to unscrew the nuts from the bolts and replace the gaskets. Tightening the nuts may also help.

If the sound of water interferes when filling the drain tank

Some people are annoyed by the sound of water when filling the drain tank. The drain tank is especially noisy at the first moment after the descent of the water, since the water enters at maximum speed and there is a long distance to the water level.

To reduce noise, it is enough to put a piece of plastic or rubber tube on the fitting of the locking mechanism of such a length that it almost reaches the bottom of the drain tank. You can fix the tube to the body of the drain mechanism using a clamp or plastic wire.

Inalienable attributes comfortable living are the comforts of civilization familiar to man, such as ergonomic furniture, stable water supply, properly planned lighting and plumbing that works without interruption. The correct operation of all the listed equipment is taken for granted, and a breakdown almost always comes as a surprise, bringing a lot of trouble. Most often, plumbing becomes the object of increased attention of homeowners, and in order to ensure its smooth functioning, it is necessary to take care of it in advance. correct installation, implying a strong connection of pipes and hoses, serviceability of fasteners and gaskets. If the plumbing is used for a long period of time, necessary condition its smooth operation are preventive examinations, which will allow timely detection of wear of reinforcement due to inadequate quality water. Timely maintenance of plumbing equipment will prevent flooding of your home and the homes of your neighbors. In the event of a breakdown of plumbing equipment, the best way out is to call a plumber who will eliminate the breakdown as quickly and efficiently as possible. If you do not have the opportunity to call the wizard, you can carry out self repair toilet cistern, the technology of which is not difficult.

The principle of the toilet bowl: basic provisions

To understand the breakdown and find the most best way its elimination, it is necessary to study theoretical basis devices of plumbing equipment and understand how water is drained in the toilet. Regardless of the design features of the toilet, any model is characterized by the presence of two main parts - a bowl located on the floor or fixed to the wall, and a water tank located on top. It is this container that is the drain tank. The operation of the water drain is based on the principle of "hydraulic lock", which implies the flushing of water into the drain under the action of gravity when a button (lever) is pressed to open the plug.

Differences of cisterns for toilet bowls: classification of cisterns

The modern market for sanitary equipment offers the consumer a wide selection of various drain devices related to different types and see. There are a large number of varieties of drain cisterns, which can be classified according to the many features presented below.

The location of the tank in relation to the toilet

The traditional way of installing toilet bowls, which does not lose its relevance even today, involves the creation of a fused structure that combines the tank and the toilet bowl into a single whole. The advantage of this installation method is that there is no need to install an outlet pipe that combines the toilet bowl and the cistern.

Despite the advantages and reliability traditional way installations, hidden structures and hanging toilets are gaining popularity. The first option is ideal for apartments with European-quality renovation. It involves installing a drain tank inside the wall in such a way that it becomes completely invisible. The system is started by pressing a special button located on the panel.

Suspended structures - another newfangled way to install toilets, which involves hanging the cistern at a certain height from the toilet bowl. A feature of this design is a strong water pressure, which guarantees efficient draining. However, it also has disadvantages, one of which is the excessive noise that is created in the process of draining water. Despite the disadvantages, in general similar designs considered one of the most practical and convenient, and their appearance will be a great addition to the interior, made in retro style.

The main types of triggers

The most common types of triggers are push-button and rod drain devices, which have proven to be one of the most reliable and durable systems. Push-button flush mechanisms are most relevant for flush cisterns closed type. Them main element- button, can be located on the side of the drain bowl or in the center. There are single- and dual-mode push-button mechanisms. The latter implies the presence of two buttons: one of them drains the water completely, and the second half. A similar principle of the device will save water if such a need arises. A similar principle of operation of the drain device can also be implemented using one button, if the amount of drained water is determined by the degree of pressing the button.

Drainage devices based on levers or chains are also gaining popularity. The manufacturer prefers to place such mechanisms in the side of the drain structure. To drain the water, just pull the lever or chain. This type drain system will be most relevant for hanging toilets. In view of these features, the repair of a wall-hung toilet cistern will be somewhat different. Regardless of the type of installation of the drain tank chosen, there is a manual trigger mechanism, which involves manually setting the volume of drained water, and automatic.

Features of the water collection system

There are several types of valves that regulate the flow of water:

• Lateral water supply, assuming the location of the fittings on top, is typical for plumbing equipment Russian manufacturers. Despite the fact that plumbing equipment equipped with this mechanism is characterized by low cost, it is not in high demand, due to the rather noisy set of water. For models that differ more high cost, characterized by the use of a special tube that reduces noise, which contributes to the supply of water directly to the bottom.
• The lower water supply is typical for models of both domestic and foreign manufacturers, related to a fairly high price category. Features of the mechanism of the lower water supply reduce the noise from the water to a minimum.

Drain tank device: basic elements

In order to correctly identify the causes of malfunctions and eliminate them in a timely manner, it is necessary at least in in general terms have an idea about the internal structure of the drain tank. Despite the differences in the reinforcing structures of the drain tank, it is characterized by a single device scheme. The internal device of the drain tank implies the presence of the following elements:

• Shut-off or drain valves regulate the flow of water from the cistern into the toilet and prevent it from leaking unnecessarily. In the process of filling the tank, the water in it helps to firmly press the surface of the valve to the drain into the toilet, which stops the leakage of water. Thus, if the drain tank passes water, this is due to a malfunction of the valves;
• A filling valve, which is combined with a water supply device and designed to adjust the water level in the drain tank. When the water reaches a certain level, its supply to the tank stops. The water level indicator is a float connected to the filling valve by means of a brass rod. If the first models of drain devices assumed a lateral location of the filling valve and a horizontal placement of the float, then modern models plumbers, while maintaining the traditional principle of operation, provide for the location of the filling valve at the bottom of the drain bowl, while the float is characterized by vertical placement;

Important! Problems leading to the need to repair the toilet cistern are most often associated with a malfunction of this particular mechanism and in most cases come down to its adjustment.

• The mechanism for draining and overflowing water, the design of which is represented by plastic fittings, equipped with start buttons. Its function is to prevent water from entering the room from the tank in the event of a malfunction of the float valve. The water overflow system, connected to the drain, comes into action after pressing the start button. Excess water is not spilled out due to the connection of the drain mechanism with overflow devices, which contributes to the release of excess water into sewer system. An important element of the system is a float valve connected to a float that regulates the water level in the tank. Malfunctions associated with the functioning of the float valve lead to water leaks from the tank.

Important! Each of these elements can become unusable, which will lead to the need for its repair. In this regard, there is no need to consider the problems associated with damage to the tank body, since in practice the elimination of cracks and chips in the body is practically impossible. This is due to the inefficiency of even the most modern adhesive compositions, which is becoming the most common reason for replacing the toilet cistern.

The most common malfunctions of the drain tank: methods for their elimination

Water leakage into the room: causes and methods for eliminating the breakdown

If you notice the appearance of water in the room, most likely the reason for this is a mounting problem. In this case, inexperienced homeowners are likely to panic and, thinking about replacing plumbing, will start looking for an answer to the question: “How to install a toilet bowl and avoid its breakdown during operation?”. But do not rush, this problem is easily fixed. Consider the most common causes of this malfunction:

• Deterioration of the sealing ring installed between the tank and the toilet bowl;
• Violation of the integrity of the gaskets of the mounting bolts.

All these malfunctions do not require complex diagnostics and can be detected even with a simple visual inspection. If you find these malfunctions, try to tighten the fasteners without applying excessive force, which can cause the tank to break or even violate its integrity.

If you performed these manipulations, and they were unsuccessful, experts recommend removing the drain tank and replacing it. rubber seal on the drain channel. They also recommend replacing the gaskets and washers on the mounting bolts.

Important! To increase the density of the joints, making them more reliable, experts recommend that they be additionally sealed with silicone.

What to do if water does not enter the tank?

This failure is also not uncommon, and its most common cause lies in the clogging of the narrowest part of the valve. Eliminating this problem will not cause difficulties - for this it is enough to release all the water from the tank and unscrew the valve along with the lever and float. After that, you will notice a fairly narrow hole designed for water to enter the tank. To eliminate its blockage, clean it with a needle or thin wire. Next, you need to slightly unscrew the valve on the inlet pipe and flush out the remnants of the blockage that has arisen. After making sure that water flows freely through the hole into the tank, tighten the valve and set the valve with lever and float to their original position.

Constant leakage of water from the tank into the toilet: causes and remedies for the breakdown

The causes of this malfunction may be:

• Distortion of the float lever;

How to eliminate? If you encounter this problem, it is enough to give the lever the optimal position for it.

float damage, leading to the fact that he begins to pass water inside himself. This inevitably leads to its aspiration to the bottom of the tank tank, that is, the water that has got inside the float prevents it from returning to its original position, at which the flow of tap water is blocked. If this does not happen, excess water is discharged into the toilet through the overflow system.

How to eliminate? Only possible option effective repair, in this case, is a replacement part.

To do this, the water is blocked along the riser, the device is dismantled, and a new, pre-purchased similar part is put in its place.

Important! In order to repair the fittings of the toilet cistern as efficiently as possible, in the process of choosing it, experts recommend paying attention to the dimensions and design features parts, as some of them are not always interchangeable.

Important! In most cases, modern floats are made of plastic or stainless steel. Floats made from these materials are practically not subject to leakage.

Wear of the sealing elements of the drain fittings. It is quite simple to find out whether the cause of the malfunction lies in the wear of the sealing elements. To do this, it is enough to slightly press the valve with your hand: if the water begins to flow, then you are not mistaken, the problem really lies in the wear of the shut-off valve, rubber gaskets or seal. You can fix this breakdown by replacing consumables.

Float wear can also cause permanent leaks. In this case, a hole is formed in the float, through which the outflow of water occurs.

Important! If at the time of the problem you do not have on hand necessary details, carry out a "temporary" repair. To do this, the hole formed in the float is sealed with heated plastic or the float that has failed is wrapped around, plastic bag thereby sealing it. In this case, it is important not to forget to fix it around the float lever.

Repair of a toilet cistern with a button: procedure

How to remove the cover with one button?

• Loosen the retaining ring around the button. In this case, it is important to avoid strong pressure on it, since plastic is used in most cases for the manufacture of rings;
• Remove the cover and proceed with the repair.

As mentioned above, there can be several reasons for the constant leakage of water from the tank into the toilet:

• Incorrect position of the float - in this case, simply remove the toilet lid and adjust the float.
• Wear of the rubber bulb on the float valve, as a result of which it does not provide tightness.

In this case, it is necessary to replace it. To do this, fix the float in the upper position and, by unscrewing the nut connecting the tank and the drain pipe, remove the entire mechanism;

• Remove the old pear, replacing it with a similar model with similar characteristics.
• If the bolts holding the pear are worn, they must be replaced.
• To do this, drain the water from the tank, removing its remnants;
• Unscrew the union nut located between the flexible hose and the float valve, as well as the bolts. With a little effort, tilt the tank with a shelf back, releasing the rubber cuff located between the tank and the toilet;
• Unscrew the damaged bolt, as well as its pair, and remove them. It is important to replace both bolts, even if the integrity of the second one is not yet broken. For replacement, select bolts of similar sizes made of brass or stainless steel;
• Remove the faience under the pear saddle and thoroughly clean it by doing the same with the shelf and tank. Smear the pear silicone sealant, which will subsequently solve problems with its wear and prevent the need to replace it;
• After assembling the tank, tighten the structure with new bolts, while avoiding distortions. To prevent damage to fragile faience, do not apply excessive force during the assembly process;
• Turn on the water and fill the tank, carefully watching for leaks.

Failure of the descent lever: how to fix it?

How to determine that in your case we are talking about this particular malfunction? It's quite simple: if you pressed the drain button, but the drain did not start, this chapter will be useful to you.

The reason for such a malfunction lies in the violation of traction, and the only correct way out is to replace it.

Important! In this case, you can also make a "temporary repair" by making a thick wire rod and twisting it in several layers. However, improvised traction does not have a long service life - over time, the wire will begin to bend, which will also lead to its failure.

Before you start repairing the old toilet cistern in this case, loosen the button on the cistern lid. To do this, turn the decorative nut a few turns - in most cases this is enough to lift the cover, gaining access to the mechanism.

Noisy filling of the tank with water: how to eliminate?

Often, craftsmen have to face this problem, and this is especially true for owners of sanitary equipment, characterized by the presence of tanks with a side water supply. After a certain period of time, the capacity of the tank begins to fill with noise, which was not "at the dawn" of operation.

Most often, the cause of this malfunction is the disconnection of the water silencer, which is a special tube through which water is supplied to the lower part of the tank without any noise effects.

To eliminate this malfunction, put the muffler on a specially designed fitting.

Toilet cistern repair with button video