DIY metal scaffolding drawings and diagrams. How to make scaffolding with your own hands

Correct installation scaffolding is the key to worker safety when carrying out various works on top. Therefore, you must strictly follow the assembly rules below.

General requirements for installation of all types of scaffolding

The process of installing scaffolding of all types can be divided into several stages:

• Preliminary work.
• Preparing the work site.
• Direct assembly and installation of scaffolding.
• Checking installation reliability.

Let's take a closer look at each of the stages.

Preparatory stage

Before installation begins, the management of the organization conducting work at the site appoints a person responsible for the work, who must have special knowledge and skills. It is under his control that the installation process will take place.

The responsible work performer is obliged to:

• study the design of scaffolding and the features of their installation site;
• accept a set of equipment from the warehouse, check its completeness and serviceability;
• develop a scaffolding installation scheme for the serviced facility;
• make sure that the installers have permits that allow them to carry out work at heights;
• conduct safety training for installers and familiarize them with the device specific model scaffolding and assembly diagram.

At the preliminary work stage it is also necessary:

• install temporary protective fences along the border of the danger zone, the dimensions of which are calculated according to SNiP 12-03-2001 “Safety in construction” Part 1 “ General requirements" and SNiP 12-04-2002 "Safety in construction" Part 2 " Construction production" So, for forests 30 meters high, the width of the danger zone should be at least 7 meters. If a protective net is hung on the scaffolding, it is permitted not to mark the boundaries of the danger zone;
• post signs warning about high-altitude work, guided by the requirements of GOST 12.4.026, as well as signs indicating diagrams of the movement of workers, placement of cargo and maximum permissible load;
• deliver a fully tested and serviceable kit to the installation site scaffolding;
• install and check the functionality of the equipment necessary for assembling scaffolding (roof crane, electric winch, etc.) - it is important to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations lifting mechanisms;
• check safety belts and replace faulty ones, if any;
• prepare the site for installation of an auxiliary structure.

Work site requirements

• To install scaffolding, you need to prepare an asphalt concrete or dirt platform at least 3 meters wide.
• The soil area should be cleared of debris, leveled and compacted (if the soil is wet, then compaction is carried out by adding crushed stone, concrete, broken bricks etc.).
• If necessary, it is necessary to organize the drainage of surface and ground water from the site for installation of scaffolding. .
• If the scaffolding installation site has a height difference, then the site must be leveled horizontally in the longitudinal and transverse directions. For this purpose, concrete slabs or boards with a thickness of at least 40-55 mm.

The procedure for assembling and installing scaffolding

The technological process of installing scaffolding of all types consists of assembling the first, second, third and subsequent tiers and securing them to the facade of the building. This process will be discussed in more detail below.

When installing scaffolding, a number of important points should be taken into account:

• During installation electrical wires located at a distance of less than 5 meters from the structure should be de-energized or placed in wooden or plastic boxes. Contact of scaffolding elements with electrical wires is not allowed.
• The assembly of the auxiliary structure must be carried out in strict accordance with the scaffolding passport.
• Installation, as a rule, begins from the corner of the building or structure along which they are planned to be installed.
• Under the shoes (thrust bearings) or screw supports of the scaffolding, special pads made of boards are installed, the thickness of which should be at least 4-5 cm.
• If the configuration of the walls does not allow the installation of scaffolding with the shoes resting on the ground, then the scaffolding is mounted on support devices on top.
• The vertical structural elements are connected to each other according to the “pipe to pipe” principle.
• The method of connecting horizontal and diagonal connections of scaffolding depends on their type: for frame scaffolding - using flag locks; for clamps - using special clamps; For wedge scaffolding, special wedges are used.
• The verticality of the structure should be controlled using a plumb line after installing each tier.
• The scaffolding is secured to the wall using anchors or factory-made metal plugs. To install them, holes are drilled in the wall of the building every four meters in a checkerboard pattern, the depth and diameter of which must correspond to the selected anchors.
• When laying flooring, you need to control the gap between the boards - no more than 5 mm; protrusions of boards - no more than 3 mm and overlap of support deck joints - no more than 200 mm.
• To protect against electrical discharges, scaffolding must be equipped with grounding and lightning rods.
• It is necessary to install protective fences on the working and safety tiers of scaffolding.

Quality requirements and acceptance of work

During the installation of scaffolding, three types of control are carried out: input - checking the completeness and serviceability of the scaffolding, current - checking compliance with the installation technology, as well as control during acceptance of work, which is carried out before the start of operation.

The main controlled parameters and characteristics, methods of their measurement and evaluation are given in the table.

To accept the work, a special commission is created, which necessarily includes the person responsible for the assembly, chief engineer construction organization and responsible for safety precautions. The acceptance of the scaffolding is documented with a work acceptance certificate - only after this can the operation of the structure begin.

Instructions for assembly and installation of frame scaffolding

Let's consider the assembly and installation scheme using frame scaffolding as an example: auxiliary structures of this type are among the most common among construction organizations.

Stage 1. Wooden pads and thrust bearings are installed on the prepared site. It is necessary to ensure that the supporting surfaces of the structure frames are strictly in a horizontal plane.

Stage 2. Installation of frames of the first tier and connecting them with horizontal and diagonal connections. Fence frames are mounted along the edges of the required length of scaffolding

Stage 3. Assembly of frames of the second tier. Diagonal connections should be installed in a checkerboard pattern. During installation, crossbars are used on which decking panels are laid.

The cost of installation services is from 110 rubles. / m2

To receive detailed calculation contact our managers by phone or via .

From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - prepared for you step by step instructions. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional devices for working at height.

Scaffolding - temporary or permanent system supports and ladders, which is used for lifting and working at heights. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is hazardous.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on scaffolding:

1. Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
2. Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
3. Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
4. Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure as much as possible and individual elements. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. It is not profitable to purchase them for home use; you can only rent them for a large amount of work (for example, on the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wooden scaffolding

The design of these scaffoldings came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports made of edged boards good quality. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:

1. Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
2. The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
3. Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
4. The board should not be affected by insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.

Cross members. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for racks. One additional requirement: It is unacceptable to use spliced ​​cross members without additional support.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. Can be made from edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal links connecting racks of different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces maximum length to link greatest number racks

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude craftsmen:

1. The foundation must be reliable. If under your feet loose soil or sand - do it wooden platforms to support the racks.
2. The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
3. Each node has at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
4. Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
5. Always install handrails with inside racks.
6. Use a fascia board (fencing near the deck).
7. The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
8. The pitch of the racks is from 1 to 2 m, minimum thickness flooring 25 mm.

Scaffolding assembly

To create a wooden scaffolding structure, you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

1. The length of the working space should be divided by optimal step(1.5 m) and get the number of racks.
2. We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.

1. We sew the frame with a brace.
2. We prepare required quantity"envelopes".
3. Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at maximum height so that they stand without support.
4. Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
5. Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
6. Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
7. Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!

1. Install the handrail and front board.
2. If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
3. If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this you need to tie the racks at the bottom horizontal board maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.

Triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To construct a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. Most dangerous look high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.

Bricklayer's express scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks are delivered. As a rule, rafter boards are used for flooring. It does not require sawing of the material, and is quite reliable if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer's scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can result in unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

Do scaffolding with your own hands if you have the skills to handle welding equipment and using various tools it will be quite easy for the owner of a private house. Prefabricated structures are needed to organize work on cladding and repairing the surfaces of building facades at height. The structure is erected along the entire perimeter of the house or at one of the facade walls.

Scaffolding is assembled from metal rods, timber, boards and wooden panels. The structure of the structures is a frame of vertical supporting elements with horizontal connections. The platforms are decking made of wooden panels or other materials. Message between at different levels construction is carried out using stairs. Scaffolding consists of structural elements such as:

1. Shoes.
2. Vertical posts and horizontal connections.
3. Flooring.
4. Railing.
5. Stairs.
6. Net.

Shoes

The supports for the vertical posts are shoes (thrust bearings). Usually this metal platforms with vertical slots for racks. For horizontal correction of shoes, spacers and pads made of wood or metal are used.

The shoes are the ultimate structural elements scaffolding that transfers the entire load from the structure to the ground foundation. Before erecting scaffolding, it is necessary to accurately determine the locations for supports. The surfaces of the sites must be in the same horizon, otherwise the facade fencing will skew and the structure will become unsuitable for use. To prepare the support areas, use a level or laser level.

Vertical posts and horizontal links

The racks perform the main load-bearing function. For forests of small height within 2 - 3 storey building apply wooden beam. Racks made of metal pipes are much more often used.

Vertical supports are installed in stages - as horizontal connections are installed. Connections between frame elements are made in several ways. The main requirement for fastenings is to ensure the safe presence of people on the construction sites.

Flooring

Work platforms are formed from wooden, steel and aluminum panels. The flooring is laid on horizontal frames formed by frame elements.

The flooring, in addition to the role of supporting platforms, serves as connecting elements that ensure the rigidity of the entire scaffolding frame.

Railing

All openings facing outwards must have railings. Fences are made of 50x50 mm timber. The railings are located at a height from the flooring within 1.1 - 1.2 m.

Stairs

Transitions between different levels of platforms are made by installing stairs. Stairs can be entirely wooden or welded from steel profiles. Duralumin ladders are not uncommon when arranging forests.

It is advisable to install stairs at an angle of no more than 450. This allows a worker to easily move from one floor to another, while carrying any load.

Net

According to requirements building codes and rules (SNiP), all scaffolding must be covered with a net. The mesh is a fine mesh polymer coating green(international standard).

The grid performs several functions simultaneously:

• Prevents workers from accidentally falling.
• Prevents hair loss various items outside the work area.
• Protects from bright sunlight.
• Protects the facade of the building during painting work from the penetration of dust from the outside.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands

There are certain standards for wooden scaffolding. The distance between the racks along the facade of the building is made from 2 to 2.5 m. The width of the flooring, which determines cross dimension between the external and internal fencing of scaffolding must be at least 1 m. The height of the wooden structure must be up to 6 m.

To build a lumber frame you will need following materials and tools:

• Hand or circular saw.
• Hammer and pliers.
• Roulette and level.
• Nails.
• Wooden beam with a section of 100×100 mm, 50×50 mm.
• Boards with a section of 100×30 mm, 100×40 mm.

The thickness of the lumber may be different, but not less than the above dimensions. The lumber must be dry, without large knots or cracks. Under no circumstances should you use raw wood. Besides the fact that wet wood It is heavy and can become significantly deformed when dry.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

1. On a flat area, 4 beams are laid, cut to fit the height of the scaffolding.
2. Every 2 beams are placed between each other at the width of the flooring.
3. The racks are nailed down with crossbars. The transverse lower beams are fixed at a rate of no more than 50 cm from the ground. The top beams must be level with the deck.
4. The resulting frames are laid on their sides, securing the position with temporary supports.
5. The frames are connected by two boards diagonally.
6. The structure is turned over on the other side and the steps to secure the diagonal connections are repeated.
7. During assembly, the dimensions of the openings are constantly monitored with a tape measure.
8. Platforms made from sections of boards are nailed to the supports from below.
9. Roofing felt or roofing felt is laid in the places where the scaffolding will stand.
10. The scaffolding is raised to a vertical position so that the legs of the structure precisely fall into the intended places.
11. Using shims, the vertical marks of the supporting platforms are corrected.
12. Install the flooring. The flooring consists of longitudinal boards knocked down with a transverse beam.
13. The decking boards are nailed to the cross beams of the frame frames.
14. On the outside of the scaffolding, railings made of boards are nailed over the flooring.
15. A staircase leading to the upper platform is installed.
16. For convenient and safe movement of workers, stair railings are installed.
17. As the structure is being erected, based on individual characteristics facade, can use temporary fixation of scaffolding using additional connections with building elements. These are spacers, bevels and so on.

At the end of the work, the forests are disassembled into separate elements that can serve to meet other needs of the household plot.

Types of homemade scaffolding made from metal pipes

Supporting structures for scaffolding made from metal profiles may differ in the way the load-bearing elements are connected. These are wedge, clamp and pin fastening units.

Wedge forests

The connection units include support platforms with mounting holes into which wedge-shaped holders of support elements fit. Making such structures yourself is quite difficult and expensive.

Clamp fastenings

The frame rods are fastened with special clamps. The process is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming. The advantage of clamp scaffolding is that structures can “hug” facades of the most complex configuration without carrying out any complex work.

Pin designs

Due to the simplicity of the design and high reliability, pin scaffolding is especially popular among home craftsmen. They are quickly assembled and disassembled. This feature of pin structures attracts amateur craftsmen.

Manufacturing and assembly of pin scaffolding

Before you start making multi-level scaffolding from pipes, you need to prepare following tools and materials.

Tools:

• Electric welding unit.
• Angle machine (grinder).
• Electric drill.
• Bending device.
• Level.

Materials:

1. Steel pipes ø 48 mm.
2. Steel pipes ø 20 mm.
3. Steel sheet 12 mm thick.
4. Smooth reinforcement ø 16 mm.
5. Wooden beam 40×40 mm.

Step by step instructions

1. Smooth reinforcement is cut into pieces 40 cm long.
2. On a bending device, sections of reinforcement are bent at an angle of 450, obtaining support pins.
3. The device for bending the pins is made from two pieces of pipe. One is welded to a massive metal blank. A piece of smooth fittings is inserted halfway into the pipe. A long piece of pipe is placed on the other end of the pin and the reinforcement is bent.
4. Pipe ø 48 mm is cut into racks, along the length equal to height forests
5. From a pipe ø 20 mm, a grinder is used to cut sleeves 200 mm long.
6. Using a tape measure and a marker, mark the places for welding the vertical sleeves.
7. The sleeves are welded to vertical posts. On corner supports, the sleeves are placed at an angle of 900 to each other.
8. On ordinary racks, 3 sleeves are welded - in the center and on the sides.
9. Pins are attached to the horizontal sections of the pipe by welding, the free ends of which are facing down.
10. Shoes made of sheet steel measuring 20x20 cm are welded to the lower ends of the racks.
11. The height of the sockets (sleeves) is set in each individual case. Typically, nests are placed at a distance of 2 m from each other vertically.
12. The horizontal opening is made from 1.5 to 2 m.
13. Boards and timber are nailed into panels that will serve as flooring.
14. Where the flooring will rest on the outer beam, 2 pieces of timber are nailed to the shield from below. Wooden pieces are nailed to the boards so that the pipe beam passes between them. This will give additional stability to the entire scaffolding frame.
15. In the areas where shields connect to cross beam Weld sections of steel angles on both sides so that the horizontal flanges of the angles are flush with the pipe.
16. The pins of horizontal connections are inserted into the sockets.
17. In places where staircases will be adopted, openings are left between the flooring panels.
18. If it is necessary to extend the racks in height, then sleeves from pipes of larger diameter are welded to the upper ends of the supports, which form sockets for attaching the upper racks.
19. The stairs are welded from sections of the same pipes.
20. The racks are brought into a vertical position.
21. The pins are inserted into the sockets.
22. Lay the flooring.
23. Stairs are installed.

The scaffolding is ready for use. At any time, the structure can be quickly dismantled and its elements stored.

Assembly of clamp scaffolding

Structures of this type do not require welding. All connections are made by hand using steel clamps. The only tools you will need are wrenches.

Along with this, it should be noted that installing and removing clamps requires significant time. The cost of clamps is quite high. The assembly of such scaffolding will require large number fasteners, which will significantly affect the cost of structures.

Painting metal scaffolding

In preparation pipe elements Before installation, the structures are cleaned of rust. Good to use for this grinder with an emery wheel.

After this, the structures are primed with a product for external metal work. Dried pipes are coated with two layers of paint intended for steel products.

During intensive exploitation of forests, metal elements are tinted once a year. If scaffolding is stored disassembled, then the products are repainted as needed. Store forests in a dry, ventilated area.

Armenian forests

This popular name simple devices in the form of wooden scaffolds. For laying walls made of brick or cinder blocks one-story houses, use a simple device consisting of triangles with right angles.

The triangular structure consists of two wooden panels, between which a console on an axis is placed. The console presses at one end vertical design one of the legs is to the wall of the building, and the other end rests on the ground. Two such structures form horizontal platforms on which the flooring rests.

Self-made “Armenian scaffolding” is far from safe, and must be treated with caution. The owner, using such scaffolding, puts his health at risk.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be rented out, which will quickly recoup all the costs of manufacturing the structures. When working at height, it is imperative to comply with safety requirements.

Sooner or later, construction reaches the finishing of the facade. And here the need arises to carry out work in the height range from 4 to 10 meters. After all, the gables need to be hemmed, the siding needs to be installed, the façade elements need to be painted, and drainage system install.

There is only one way out - to install scaffolding or a tower. But industrial building structures expensive, and the price for a tower tour is working height At 8-10 meters it bites strongly. You can rent them, but if the work takes a long time, such a rental will cost a pretty penny.

Metal or wood

Scaffolding can be made of wood or metal. The practical experience of forum members suggests that building metal structures It is economically feasible only if you have “free” hardware. If you buy metal, fasteners, engage in welding work, then such structures will ultimately cost more than factory ones and, especially, wooden ones.

While scaffolding can be carefully disassembled and the boards put to use, metal ones are doomed to gather dust in utility block. Experienced builders will tell you that high-quality scaffolding or a tower can then be rented out. But few private developers will want to bother with this. Therefore, the majority of forum users still prefer wooden structures.

HukTo member FORUMHOUSE

Metal scaffolding is better than wooden scaffolding, but the main trump card of wooden scaffolding is the relative cheapness, simplicity and speed of their production.

Advice from FORUMHOUSE: it is better to build your own wooden scaffolding from high-quality lumber. A quality board, unlike waste material, which will have to be thrown away after use, can be used in a new construction project.

DIY scaffolding for the home.

How to make scaffolding from boards

Before you start DIY wooden structures, it is necessary to decide on the scope of work. If in one case they can be the simplest - attached (for lining gables, siding country house etc.), then in other cases (finishing the facade with stone or brick, plastering work etc.) a more serious design is needed.

The dimensions of the base unit are as follows:

• Length – 5 m;
• Width – 1 m;
• Height (thickness) – 3.5 m.

The construction took 60 linear meters boards 150x50mm.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

They are called "scaffolding - envelope".

DIY construction scaffolding

The design itself looks like the letter G attached to. A 150x50 board is taken as a basis, another board is nailed to it perpendicularly - support platform, on which the flooring is then laid.
One of essential elements Such structures are jibs - boards 25-50x100, with which two main boards knocked together at right angles are sheathed on the sides.

Usually 3 jibs are nailed on each side. Thus, the rigidity of the entire structure is achieved.

Such forests do not need a rigid connection with the house. The force load is carried by the support board, which at one end rests against the place where the boards are attached, and at the other - the pointed end - is stuck into the ground.

If the house is wooden or frame, then scaffolding can be nailed to the wall. If the facade cannot be damaged, then they are leaned against the wall, and the main load is carried by the supporting board.

When choosing the size of “envelopes”, you should adhere to the following requirements. If the area is too narrow, it will be difficult and dangerous to walk on it. If the platform is too wide, then the “envelope” may come off the wall. Optimal size platforms – 400-500 mm.

The main advantage of attached structures is that their manufacture does not require a lot of lumber.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

The supporting board and, accordingly, the height of the scaffolding can be increased. If the length of the board increases (more than 6 m), then for the rigidity of the structure, another board rests in the corner between the wall and the blind area, the other end of which is attached to the middle of the first - the main board.

Despite the fact that the design is widely known, at the first glance at such structures you doubt their reliability - it’s scary to look at! Let's turn to practical experience users of our site.

Zark member FORUMHOUSE

We call such forests “Armenian”. When I first saw such a design, I was surprised at how it even held up. I tried it, climbed onto the flooring - quite reliably. I myself have used attached scaffolding more than once, both on wood and on brick house. They are convenient, quickly assembled and disassembled. They don't take up much space.

Armenian scaffolding.

Drosha member FORUMHOUSE

This type of forest is quite safe. There is no need to attach the boards to the walls, but the flooring must be screwed to the supports with self-tapping screws (do not knock it down with nails, so that you can quickly disassemble it later).

How to Build Scaffolding for Heavy Duty Work

But such “Armenian” scaffolding is not suitable for all work - mainly for light work. They are good as scaffolding for painting a house, etc. For “heavy” work that requires working with tools, solutions, finishing the facade with stone, etc. a more permanent structure must be used.

The assembly of the structure is done as follows:

• Take a six-meter board (150/200x50) and place it vertically against the wall;
• A second board is placed parallel to it;
• They are secured to each other by horizontal bars. Next, according to the same scheme, the second support is mounted and the flooring is laid;
• For greater rigidity, the racks are supported by additional brace boards that rest against the ground;
• As necessary, the scaffolding is increased in height by attaching additional vertical boards.

Standard dimensions of one span of such scaffolding:

• The step between the racks is 2-2.5 m;
• The width of the flooring for work is 1 m.

DIY wooden scaffolding.

diews FORUMHOUSE member

We made forests like this last summer. They were not attached to the wall. They placed only one wall at a time and then moved it. The main thing is to make braces and stops, and the structure will stand like a glove.

How to make scaffolding better: gpush against the screws

There is always a lot of controversy about how to put together scaffolding,
how to fasten the boards to each other. The opinions of forum members are divided: some believe that it can be assembled with self-tapping screws, others are categorically against it - only with nails.

The main argument of opponents of self-tapping screws is their fragility. The self-tapping screw does not work well under shock loads and shear loads. The result is that the cap flies off, the structure loses strength, even to the point of self-destruction.

How to build scaffolding for cladding a house.

Igor Kokhanov member of FORUMHOUSE

I recommend fastening everything with 120 mm nails with the obligatory bend of the tip on the crossbars and on the jibs. And no self-tapping screws! I'll tell you such a case. Builders I knew were doing the roof. They fastened the boards with self-tapping screws. The result is that the structures separated, all four of them flew from a height of five meters. The result is one in the hospital with broken kidneys. The second was a severe bruise to the leg. But they got off easily; if the altitude had been greater, everything could have ended much worse.

That's why this happened. The nail is made of relatively soft metal. Under load it bends and does not break. The self-tapping screw is made of hardened metal and under alternating and shock loads, it will first bend a little and then break. Moreover, the so-called “black” self-tapping screws, due to hardening, are much more brittle than anodized yellow ones.

For collapsible wooden structures, bolts with a hexagonal head (under a washer) with a diameter of 8 mm and special metal fasteners are well suited.

The main argument of opponents of nails is that it will no longer be possible to carefully disassemble scaffolding that has been nailed together, and part of a good board will have to be thrown out or put to waste. rough work. And the structural elements will be kept from shifting by the large friction force that occurs between the boards if you use self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm long. Therefore, you need to make a compromise - use self-tapping screws to assemble scaffolding “on the ground”. In this case, if an error occurs at the first stage of scaffolding collection, they can be quickly disassembled and rebuilt. And only then additionally nail everything together properly.

Hello dear Semenych! I've been building a house for 3 years now, and finally it came to covering it with siding. A problem arose in the scaffolding. Question: How to act more rationally and profitably? Rent scaffolding? To put together - how exactly?

Evgeniy, Gorno-Altaisk.

Hello, Evgeniy from Gorno-Altaisk!

Judging by the image of the photo and the inscription, you belong to the category of those who delved into my entrails three times. To avoid giving your colleagues the pleasure of doing the same to you, take scaffolding seriously.

With our construction teams (which change almost every year, including due to natural decline), when installing siding on the walls and gables of houses, we use both scaffolding and simply ladders.

Aluminum folding and retractable stairs are preferable, allowing their use at heights from the beginning of the second floor to 18 meters. At least I haven’t seen a longer one on sale. The presence of a crossbar at the upper end of such stairs is enough to prevent the siding from being pushed through when they rest on it. True, traces of metal remain on light-colored sidings and then have to be washed off with solvents and shampoos.

Wooden stairs, with their lengths of more than 6 meters, are a bit heavy, you get tired of moving them, and even if they rest on the installed siding, and this happens, they can push through it.

In any case, if it is necessary to install siding at a height of more than 6 - 7 meters, wooden stairs, as a rule, are not used. And aluminum ladders are not at all conducive to productive work, since you often have to go down to the sinful ground for the necessary material. Even if there are assistants on it feeding sheets of siding.

When it is not possible to have your own scaffolding (there is nowhere to store it, or bad people stole it right from a facility under construction), then you have to borrow it from colleagues for a while or rent it from organizations that do business with it.

In our area, one day of renting a minimum amount of scaffolding, sufficient for a more or less tolerable installation of siding, costs from 800 - 1000 rubles per day.

The most popular scaffolding is old Soviet-made from steel pipes a couple of meters long (transverse), 3 - 4 meters (racks) and a diameter of about 60 millimeters. The advantage lies in their reliability and durability. The disadvantage is the heaviness.

Nowadays, steel ones are more in use, but with a diameter of about 40 millimeters, and aluminum analogues are somewhat less common. All possible lengths and mounting methods. Advantage: lightweight, quick to install. The disadvantage is that it is less reliable than Soviet-made ones.

Even less common are aluminum scaffoldings with two ten-meter stand-sets and a six-meter platform (half a meter wide), which is raised with the help of manual winch. You sit down on such a platform, turn the handle and, like Baron Munchausen, you lift yourself up.

About five years ago, with the help of such forests, installation work in one research institute.

Crowds of designers looked with undisguised interest original design. However, you can hardly rent such forests.

With sufficient experience in installing siding, and this is acquired in the process, two or three people one-story house with dimensions of 6/6 meters and with attic gables, they are sheathed in 2 - 3, maximum 4 days.

It is optimal to work with three people, when two people install all the siding elements, and one uses a grinder to cut the plastic to size and feed it.

To optimize labor costs in terms of time and in the absence of scaffolding, we use ladders, supplementing them with construction trestles and scaffolds. We fasten them well to the ground, we place ladders on them with the emphasis on padded bars. For insurance, we screw them in with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver (great thing! I recommend it). Or we attach it with wire/rope/.

We make goats with a height of 1 to 2 meters, no more, otherwise the whole town will shake.

Sometimes we do as follows- everything is possible permissible height we install siding from the stairs (and trestles /emphasis on the first syllable! otherwise you might think.../). And only then we rent scaffolding. Then their payment is made in less time.

But more often we take scaffolding from colleagues we know; today they give it to us, and tomorrow we help them with something.

One of my friends, though unlike you, is a neurosurgeon, does not take bribes or greyhounds, and when the need arose, his grateful patients simply got him the forest for a while. And OBEP will not find fault.

In my opinion, it is not rational to put together scaffolding purely for the installation of siding. Moreover, if you install them along the entire length of the wall of the house (that is, at least 6 meters). You'll waste a lot of time, and you'll need a lot of material. It’s good if this material can be used somewhere else later. And due to its bulkiness, it is difficult to carry scaffolding around the perimeter of the house. Less, but rather more is necessary, as four men cannot do it. It will have to be partially dismantled.

Although the taste and color... Not later than today, I saw a neighbor in the garden, who alone built something similar from 6 meter boards. True, he’s been building his house exactly twice as long as it takes you, and there’s no end in sight. One is building.

In any case, if you decide to do this, then thoroughly fasten the lower ends of the rack boards. And attach their tops with wire to the walls or roof of the house. Not forgetting that the fasteners will also interfere with the installation of the siding when you get to this fastener.

Wooden scaffolding of this type is made from vertical 6-meter posts. You're unlikely to get a longer length - it's not standard. The racks are edged boards with a cross section of at least 40/100 millimeters.

Such boards are placed on the ground, at a distance of about a meter from each other, and fastened together with transverse boards of the same cross-section. They are laid overlapping, secured with three or four “hundred” nails (or the mentioned self-tapping screws).

The crossbars are placed at an approximate distance of one and a half meters from each other and everything is parallel to each other. At least three such sets are made.

Then install one such set vertically, next to the wall that you will cover with siding. The stand should not lean against the wall, but should be approximately 15 centimeters away from it, so as not to interfere with manipulations with the siding.

Place pieces of edged boards under the posts so that they do not sink into the ground. If the ground surface is not level, then adjust the installation of the racks with additional lining of such boards.

After one set is installed, it is temporarily secured in a strictly vertical position. Then, at a distance of about one and a half to 2 meters, a second such set is placed. With all the bells and whistles like the first one. Between these sets the boards are stuffed vertically, slightly diagonally. On one side and on the other side straight opposite directions. This will prevent the kits from folding and collapsing.

Diagonal boards from 4 to 6 meters long.

After two sets are already in place, they make a third one and install it in the same way.

Then they place it on the crossbars edged boards, usually “30” or “40” (these ones sag less) on which you will walk. Their length in our scenario is about 4 meters, or half a meter longer. For insurance, you can temporarily screw them to the crossbars with self-tapping screws. With the possibility of quick dismantling.

You don’t need a lot of such boards, because as you move higher for work, they are also transferred higher to the next crossbars.

It is better to climb onto these temporary platforms using a ladder that is placed on the side. It is not rational to fence scaffolding higher than 6 meters, since measuring standard boards are exactly this length and increasing them without additional reinforcement is a hassle.

When you reach 8 meters in height (6 meters of forest plus your height), this will be your roof ridge.