How to make a galvanized gutter with your own hands. Do-it-yourself roof spillway: roof spillways and basic installation elements

Making a gutter with your own hands makes sense, first of all, in the case when the amount of work during the construction of an individual house begins to cost more than it was originally calculated. At the same time, it is not worth refusing to completely install a system that drains rainwater from the roof. This will not only prevent the use of the wall space and create a serious inconvenience when entering the house, but will also greatly reduce the life of the walls and foundation.

In addition, not only for installation, but also for the manufacture of parts of the drainage system, special qualifications and high labor costs are not required at all. Tools for this are also quite accessible to almost everyone involved in individual construction. In addition to the protective functions, the drainage system is able to collect considerable volumes of rainwater in a specially designated reservoir, which will be of great help during the irrigation of home gardens.

Varieties of gutters and installation rules

Before starting the manufacture of gutter parts, it is necessary to determine the shape of the gutter and the material from which it will be made. In the first case, it can have a semicircular, rectangular or trapezoidal profile. In the second case, there is a choice between plastic and sheet metal. At the same time, plastic is resistant to any amount of moisture and is not subject to corrosion, but it does not tolerate temperature changes in the surrounding atmosphere. Polycarbonate is considered a very convenient type of plastic for this purpose.

Galvanized tin is well tolerated not only by severe frosts, but also by the convergence from the roof in the spring of masses of adhering snow and ice. But over time, it is prone to destruction under the influence of corrosion. A good alternative in this case may be the use of thin sheet steel coated with a polymer film, as well as a copper or titanium sheet for the manufacture of a drain. The main obstacle to this can only be their high cost.

After the choice is made with the material and shape, it is necessary to calculate the number of parts and the footage of the required drain. This takes into account both the area of ​​the roof covering and the angle of its inclination, as well as the frequency of precipitation and its intensity in this particular climatic zone. If the length of the roof slope is less than eight meters, then it is enough to install one gutter on it. If more than eight meters, then you will have to install two gutters, having a slope to the corners from the middle of the length of the roof. Drain funnels in this case are placed in the corners, two on each side of the house.

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Necessary details of the construction of the drain

The composition of the drainage system includes the following elements, functionally interconnected with each other:

1. Actually the gutters themselves, into which water flows along the slopes of the roof. They are installed in a horizontal position with a slight inclination towards the drain. The outer side of such a gutter is often made slightly higher than the edge of the roof, so that water does not overflow over the edge during heavy rain.
2. Drainpipes through which water flows to specially designated places. They are placed vertically along the walls, most often at the corners of the building.
3. Funnels that are placed at the junction of horizontal gutters with vertical pipes. Water can be supplied to each funnel both one at a time and several gutters at once.
4. Brackets with which all these parts are attached to the surface of the walls and the edge of the roof.
5. Couplings used to connect pipes of different diameters.
6. Plugs that are placed at the ends of the gutters, if a funnel is not provided there.

All these parts must match in size with each other and have no gaps at the joints in order to avoid water leakage. It is quite possible to make them with your own hands if you have the necessary tools.

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Making parts of the drainage system with your own hands

In order to make gutters, funnels and downpipes on your own, you will need a rolling tool, metal shears, a hammer and a shape along which the gutter will bend. In addition, you will need a tape measure, a sharply sharpened nail and a long ruler. After that, strips of the required width are marked on a sheet of galvanized sheet, and cut off with roofing scissors. For the manufacture of downpipes, the width of the strip should be approximately twice as wide as for the gutter.

After that, one edge of the strip is rigidly fixed, and the other is bent according to the existing shape. It can be a metal pipe of large diameter. The end edge of the strip to create a roller connection is bent outward. For vertical drainpipes, with a hammer and pliers, one end is slightly narrowed so that the top one is inserted into the bottom one. The same is done with horizontal gutters to facilitate the process of joining them together. If the material of manufacture is plastic, then waterproof glue can be used to connect the individual parts.

The drain funnel consists of three components: a rim, a cone and a glass. In this case, it must be remembered that the rim and cone must be of the same diameter at the junction. The same applies to the place where the glass is attached to the pipe. As for connecting gutters and pipes, the funnel components are connected by rolling. This will avoid water infiltration at the joints even with heavy loads of rainwater masses, which occur during heavy rains. To install the funnel in the gutter, a special hole is cut with scissors.

The brackets are bent from a thicker metal strip in such a way that the gutter lies tightly enough in them. For drainpipes, round clamps with tails are bent, with which they are then attached to the wall. If there is no strip, then the brackets can be cut from sheet metal so that the load falls on the vertical cut. You can do the same operation with hard types of plastic, such as bakelite or textolite.

Until recently, galvanized gutters were considered not very popular due to the fact that galvanizing, according to popular belief, does not last long. Yes, and such drains would not have been called attractive even in Soviet times, and such drains would hardly fit into the modern design of the house. But during the boom period of more diverse plastic drainage systems, foreign companies have been actively working on the composition of galvanized ones all this time, and the final quality has increased significantly.

Of course, thanks to modern technologies, there is no need to use only galvanized pipes, as before, but it is from this material that you can easily make spectacular and non-standard drainage systems on your own, and not just weathercocks and visors. Therefore, let's figure out why a modern galvanized gutter is valuable and how to design, manufacture and install it yourself.

Until relatively recently, almost all drainage systems in Russia were made of metal only, although specifically galvanized gutters were used infrequently due to their high cost. But modern drainage systems made of such material have the highest resistance to ultraviolet rays, temperature extremes and corrosion of all metal ones.

We are talking about steel of a special alloy, which also pleases with strength and resistance to serious mechanical damage. Moreover, you can choose a protective coating in all its diversity as matte. and glossy, and modern galvanized gutters are covered with plastisol, pural or polyester. But until recently, at least some color scheme was offered only by manufacturers of plastic drainage systems, but today both steel and aluminum systems have such design luxury. The only drain that is still not customary to paint is copper.

And it looks like a modern gutter made of galvanized steel like this:

The only negative that you still have to face is the frequency of repairs, because. due to thermal expansion and contraction, seams often diverge in such drains. Well, such shortcomings should then be compared with plastic cracks, the fragility of ordinary metal drains and the special attractiveness of copper for crooks.

And keep in mind that galvanized gutters are not suitable for all roofing materials. The fact is that if bitumen was used as part of the roofing, like a flexible tile, then when it is hot, it melts and sometimes gets on the pipes themselves. And there already bitumen enters into a chemical reaction with a protective layer of galvanized gutters - polymers. And this causes rust in a short time.

But most of all, a galvanized drain is still appreciated for the ease of working with it:

Stage I. We make a decision: ready-made or home-made drainage system?

Galvanization is galvanized iron roofing. Its main advantage is that such a drain is the most resistant to corrosion of all metal and at the same time has a light weight. It is a real pleasure to work with him: cut, process, fix. But there is a significant difference, which manufacturer's drain you will install.

Quality and durability

Note that the production of modern galvanized gutters is quite complex and even high-tech. For such systems, only high-quality sheets are used, which in the end turn out to be much more practical and viable than modern rolled metal or plastic. Therefore, such gutters - do-it-yourself or industrial - ultimately:

• resistant to corrosion, precipitation and climatic conditions;
• durable thanks to the polymer coating;
• versatile and affordable;
• while also being light in weight.

The thing is that now such drains are mainly made of high-quality galvanized steel 0.6 mm thick, with a special polymeric decorative coating, which is being developed using modern technologies. For example, the domestic manufacturer "Insi" offers galvanized gutters with a special protective layer "Plastizol" 100 microns or "Pural" 50 microns. Such products are durable, easy to assemble and a variety of design solutions.

By the way, galvanized gutters with a polymer coating today are also produced by Ruukki (Finland), Siba (Sweden), Aquasystem (Germany-Russia), Metal Profile and Lamiera. Such gutters and pipes are coated with zinc and polymeric material even at the factory. All this allows them to be resistant to mechanical damage, corrosion and fading. At the same time, their color range is quite wide, and you can easily select the system to match the color of the existing roof or facade.

Galvanized gutters from Lindab, Fricke Braas are also known for their quality. In such gutters, accidental damage is easily corrected, and leaks are sealed.

If you are not too versed in brands, or you have a good opportunity to purchase high-quality galvanized gutters from friends, then remember that galvanized gutters have their own quality requirements, thanks to which you can determine how durable the system you get for your home. So, carefully consider the control samples of pipes: the outer surface of the sheet must be perfectly clean, with a continuous coating - this is very important. There should not be any small cracks or sagging of color. Also, for such a pipe, all edges must be perfectly even!

Basic and additional elements

The finished gutter system made of galvanized steel includes all the necessary fasteners: hooks, clamps, grips, curved elbows, plugs, etc. Their task is to ensure the necessary tightness of water drainage in the right direction. Therefore, you can easily install such a system on a reinforced concrete, brick or wooden wall, of any configuration and in the right direction.

Moreover, the drain itself from such material should not at all be exclusively semicircular. Literally 30 years ago, galvanized gutters with rectangular and more complex profiles appeared on the Russian market, which beautifully imitate the cornice:

Stage II. Designing a future drainage system

The rules are quite simple:

1. If the roof area is less than 50 square meters, then you will need gutters 100 mm wide and pipes 75 mm in diameter;
2. If the roof is from up to 100 square meters, you need gutters of 125 mm and pipes with a diameter of 87 mm;
3. If the roof covers a fairly large building and its total area exceeds 100 square meters, then install gutters of 150 mm and pipes of 100 mm, or another combination of them - gutters of 190 mm and pipes of 120 mm, this is also possible.

Now we are counting funnels for a galvanized drain. One standard funnel is capable of collecting rainwater over an area of ​​about 100 square meters. Although much here depends on the size of the drainage system itself. For example, if it is equal to the parameters 150x100, then one funnel will collect water from 150 square meters or from 15 running meters of gutters. But it’s easier to calculate the number of vertical pipes: just divide the height of the building by the length of the drainpipe that you purchased (usually 1-2-3 meters) and multiply by the number of funnels.

Stage III. We prepare water waste elements

So, now let's figure it out if you decide to purchase a galvanized sheet and build a drain for your house yourself. Working with galvanizing is not difficult, because its protective layer is sufficiently resistant to abrasion and damage, so such parts can be easily bent and even subjected to impacts. The main thing is to avoid deep scratches in the process, that's all.

The easiest way to cut industrial galvanized gutters is with a fine-toothed file - this is a hacksaw or a special saw for metal. And for making small holes, use special metal scissors. But there is one point here: for galvanized gutter elements, you cannot use an angle grinder like a grinder, because. it heats the steel and destroys the galvanized coating.

Blanks must be made in advance - these are templates for all gutter elements. For example, for a funnel, this is a ring segment, and for a pipe, a rectangle. Moreover, you can easily cope with all this on your own, and industrial or home-made machines will only make the process a little easier for you. Today, you can purchase a fairly diverse bending equipment for this business, for example, roller bending machines or a beading machine, or even rolling beams:

Here are the items you will need to make:

Or even limit yourself to such an ingeniously simple option that has the right to life for a small country house or garden building:

And in order to make a high-quality drainage system from this material, you will need not so much:

• sheets of galvanized iron, about 0.7 mm thick;
• ordinary scissors for metal;
• hammer, mallet and pliers.

Make all closed galvanized gutter products with a seam connection. This is a lock into which the folds are connected, and it is quite tight. It will be easiest for you to make a single fold with a simple layout on the edges and with two folds. If you want to make something more complicated, then direct the folds in opposite directions. For drainpipes, a fold with a width of 4 to 10 mm is sufficient, so do not complicate the whole process. By the way, almost all gutter elements made of galvanized steel are connected by a seam method. Therefore, you can easily make angles and tees of any slope, angle and configuration.

Here is one of the most popular methods for making galvanized gutter elements:

• Step 1. Carefully consider the galvanized sheet itself: it should be even, with a uniform surface and finished edges. And, when you start to make a project of your future drainage system, separately outline all the elements you need. After that, put the galvanized sheet on a hard surface and draw a pattern of the future part with a sharp object.
• Step 2. If you are working on making a pipe, then the width of the pattern should be equal to the future diameter of the product plus 12 centimeters on each side for the seam. Also, increase the length of the drain by a couple of centimeters. Now cut the workpiece with scissors for metal, outline the fold of the fold and bend the edges with a mallet. For this, only half a centimeter will be enough.
• Step 3. It will be easy to give your workpiece the shape of a drainpipe: just wrap it around an object of the desired shape, for example, a plastic pipe.
• Step 4 Now cut the gutters and pipes with a hacksaw. All burrs should be carefully cleaned with a simple file, otherwise they will interfere with the sealing of the drainage joints.
• Step 5. Just wrap the edges of the strips on a steel corner, then fold the sheet and secure it all with a hammer.
• Step 6. Now make an L-shaped fold and hook the edge into the lock. Secure this edge by tapping the edges with a hammer. Just be sure to follow all the precautions so as not to get hurt or cut by the sharp edges of the tin.

Here is a good example of also not complicated manufacturing of a galvanized steel gutter:

The only difficulty that you will encounter is the docking of home-made elements with each other. To do this, slightly correct the short edge of the sheet before twisting it so that it turns out to be thinner by a couple of millimeters.

Here is another practical instruction for working with this material:

• Step 1. For a pipe, you need to cut a blank from a single sheet, on one side 3.40 meters and the other 3.30 meters.
• Step 2. Now we make seams for the pipe on both sides. To do this, on a metal corner, we simply bend the edges of the leaflet by 7 mm with a mallet and bend them in different directions from each other at an angle of 90 degrees.
• Step 3. We turn the workpiece over with the bent corners up and with a mallet we achieve this angle to 130-150 degrees.
• Step 4. As a result, your workpiece should protrude only 1 cm from the corner, and tap on it with a mallet along the entire length of the corner. Make such blows that they are strong and confident. Your mallet should lie exactly on the plane of the corner, and at the same time not deviate either to the right or to the left, so as not to damage the seam.
• Step 5. Now we crimp the workpiece around some other pipe and interlock the seams. After that, the workpiece is beaten with a mallet at the place of adhesion until the corners are completely crossed.
• Step 6. The most ordinary can opener will help you cut your finished pipe into individual elements, oddly enough. Only after cutting clean the edges.

If you did everything right, your parts should easily fit with other elements of the gutter system, even factory-made ones.

Stage IV. Preparing the roof for the installation of a drain

The entire installation process of a galvanized gutter system includes 7 main steps:

• Step 1. Marking on the walls and roof.
• Step 2. Fixing the extreme elements for the gutter.
• Step 3. Restoring the level and leveling the suspension to the desired slope.
• Step 4. Mounting connection of gutters.
• Step 5. Connecting the funnels.
• Step 6. Fastening clamps for vertical elements of gutters.
• Step 7. Fixing the drain pipes.

This step-by-step illustration clearly shows the process itself:

In the work you will need the following tools:

Stage V. Installation of fasteners

For a galvanized drain, due to its lightness, the method of fastening to rafter legs is considered the most rational. This option is ideal for roofs with a large surface area. It is possible to install gutters in this way only before laying the roofing. Combined brackets with extensions are used here as a fastener. They are fixed directly to the rafter leg, if the rafter pitch is not more than 60 centimeters:

Another option is to install a fastener on the crate if the pitch of the rafters does not exceed 60 cm. This method is especially common if the roof is covered with metal tiles or ondulin.

And it’s easier to work with brackets that are attached to the side of the rafters. In fact, the slope of the gutter is created due to the fact that each next bracket is mounted slightly lower than the previous one.

The most difficult thing is to fasten the front brackets, because they need to be installed on the windboard. In this case, it is very important to determine the direction of the slope of the gutter and calculate the difference between the levels of the first and last bracket:

Stage VI. Installation of horizontal gutter elements

Modern galvanized gutters are connected with brackets, latches, locks or rubber gaskets. The easiest to install is a special snap-on design:

• Step 1. All gutters must be aligned symmetrically in the center so that the joint remains 3-4 millimeters between them.
• Step 2. Now pull the front part of the connector to the gutter and snap the lock into place.
• Step 3. The next step is to lock the lock itself, for which return the latch to its original position.
• Step 4. Next, at a distance of 10-15 centimeters from the connection of the gutters, install additional hooks.
• Step 5. Now the gutter curl must be inserted into the corner curl to a depth of 2-3 cm, and then sealed.
• Step 6. Fix the connection point with two rivets and install an additional gutter connector.
• Step 7. The curl on the plugs must be wound at an angle, and turned in the opposite direction. You should feel that the plug is inserted into the gutter until it stops. For sealing and fixing, use special glue. But on the back of the gutter, the plug must be fixed with rivets.
• Step 8. Now we mount the funnel. Hook its front edge to the front edge of the chute and turn the funnel in its direction so that the fixing plate is bent inside the chute. Optionally, insert the "spider" into the funnel at this stage.
• Step 11. At the last stage, we make the transition from the funnel to the drainpipe. To do this, you need two universal elbows. Consider water drainage at the bottom.
• Step 12. Mount the gutter corner pieces according to the marks as you did with the funnel and gutter connectors.
• Step 13. Then install the plugs at the ends of the gutters so that the distance to the gable roof boards is at least 3 centimeters.
• Step 14 Start pipe installation from the funnel. If the roof extension is small, then use a coupling or coupling outlet.
• Step 15 Install the pipe bracket and leave 10mm to compensate for thermal expansion - this is a very important point.

Here is a good tutorial on this topic:

Downspouts, where water flows from the gutters, must be fixed to the walls of the house with the help of special holders. These consist of a clamp that covers the pipe, and a fastener that is directly mounted into the wall. Most often it is a long nail, a plate with screws, or a special pointed rod.

Holders must be located above each pipe connection. For example, when mounting long straight sections, the holders should be fastened in increments of up to 2 meters. Moreover, for walls made of different materials (brick or wood), you need to use your own fasteners.

Here is the whole process in detail:

Downspouts, in which water flows from the gutters, must be fixed to the walls of the house with the help of holders. Usually such an element is a screw, a nail, a pointed rod or a plate that is attached with screws. It is important that the holders are located under each socket - this is the junction of the pipes.

When you mount long and straight pipe sections, attach the holders in increments of 1.8 meters. And note that different holders are used for wooden and brick walls. So, in a set of a drainage system for brick walls, screws and a plastic dowel are usually offered, under which holes are pre-drilled to fit its size. Gutters are fixed to wooden walls with a plate with screws or a rod. A long rod is simply driven into the wood, but plates are indispensable when the walls are too thin.

Stage VII. Protection of the galvanized gutter against scratches and corrosion

The main enemy of galvanized gutters and drains are branches and debris that fall on the roof with the wind and are washed into the drain by rain. These are able to scratch even the most resistant polymer coating (and much worse without it), and therefore it is better to protect the entire system as much as possible.

The simplest method is gratings, which are produced today in standard parameters: slotted, perforated, stainless steel, plastic, galvanized, brass and cast iron. You need to fix them on a latch or with screws and nuts. It is important that the top surface of the grate remains 25 mm below the surface of the roofing so that rainwater flows well into the gutter.

In turn, the basket will also help to cope with the problem. Water flows through the gutters, and the basket retains the largest dirt, such as leaves and branches. Such a basket is easy to remove and clean, which is its advantage. Also, such a modern element of the drainage system as a sand trap is designed for the same as the storm water inlet, but at the same time it retains finer dirt and sand.

Lastly put the plugs. They are installed at the end of a row of gutters and equipped with a branch pipe. The plugs must be connected to the sewer channel and joined together by the necessary elements of the system.

At the end of the channel, install storm water inlets or drainage wells. After all, if you have a problem with the flooding of the site and you want to organize at least some kind of collection of melt and rainwater, then connect the drainage system to a linear drainage system.

The problem is that rainwater from the roofs, falling on the ground, drains it and always turns into perched water. Over time, it can not only complicate the operation of the site, but also affect the very condition of the house. It makes the walls damp, floods the basement and washes the soil from under the foundation. Cracks in the walls just happen most often when the area is rainy and drainage is not provided. But, if you approach the issue of installing a galvanized drain correctly, there will be no problems!

In hardware stores you can find a lot of options for ready-made drainage systems, but their cost is high. Having learned how to make a gutter with your own hands, you can make such a structure from steel sheets with various types of coatings. It will cost inexpensively, and it will serve as reliably as made in production.

The selected material must be distinguished by strength, durability and resistance to environmental influences - precipitation, temperature extremes and ultraviolet rays.

To some extent, these requirements are met by:

1. Sheet galvanized steel is a budget option that is actively used to create gutters for drainage systems. Its disadvantage is not too high strength, the structure can be damaged by a crowbar during cleaning from ice.
2. Polymer coated metal. They are great for buildings whose roof is covered with metal tiles, since it is easy to choose the material that matches the color. Resistance to low temperatures and corrosion make steel gutters with a protective polymer film a good choice. The only negative is the noticeable noise that occurs when the water passes through the gutters.
3. Painted sheet steel. Such designs will require periodic renewal of the coating. Not a very good choice for houses covered with a soft roof - abrasive particles that get into the gutters along with rainwater will gradually destroy the metal.
4. Plastic. Durable and corrosion-resistant material, products from which are quite easy to assemble. The design is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, is not destroyed by abrasive particles, acid precipitation. Doesn't make noise.
5. Copper and zinc-titanium alloy. They are distinguished by durability, strength and reliability, but they are very expensive.

The main elements of the drainage system

The drainage system of any type consists of standard elements, each of which is responsible for a specific task:

1. Gutters. Water flowing from the roof enters the gutters located along the perimeter of the building.
2. Water pipes. From the gutters, drains are discharged down the pipes.
3. Funnels. Connect the gutters and pipes together.
4. Plugs. Elements that control the rate of precipitation runoff serve as limiters.
5. Adapters and couplings. Details with which straight sections of the structure are connected together.
6. Tees, elbows, elbows. They are used to distribute water, bring drainpipes closer to wall surfaces, and for corners.
7. Brackets and holders. With their help, the gutters are fixed.
8. Clamps and pins - fasteners for pipes.

When designing gutters for the roof of a private house with your own hands, take into account:

1. The diameter of the gutters and pipes. In each case, they are selected individually, taking into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof, the abundance of precipitation in the region, the angle of inclination of the slopes. Average parameters for small buildings (country houses, garages) - d gutters 7-11.5 cm, d pipes - 5-7 cm; for a cottage or a house of medium size - d gutters 11.5-13 cm, d pipes 7.5-11 cm.
2. Location of drainage and water intake elements. The scheme depends on the type of roof and the length of the overhang. Pipes are usually installed in the corners of the building.
3. The number of materials. For an accurate calculation, you will need to calculate the total footage of the gutters (the perimeter of the building and a small margin of about 5%). The number of funnels and pipes must be determined by yourself, focusing on the length of the walls - they are installed at a distance of 10 m from each other. The length of the pipe depends on the height of the building (from ground level to overhang). The distribution, corner and connecting parts of the structure are determined individually, taking into account the configuration of your home.

Production of gutters from steel sheets

Galvanized steel gutters are the most popular and budget option. For the manufacture of a drainage system, you can use sheet metal with a polymer coating, which is more resistant to external influences, the procedure will remain the same.

Materials and tools

To create a gutter with your own hands you will need:

• sheet material 0.5 mm thick;
• a hammer;
• pliers;
• metal scissors;
• marking marker.

When performing work, it must be taken into account that the width of the workpiece must be 1.5 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe - this gap is needed to connect the elements.

Pipe

Pipe making instructions:

1. A pattern is made on a metal sheet based on the previously calculated parameters. From one edge, running along the length of the sheet, you need to draw a straight line at a distance of 0.5 cm, from the other - with an indent of 1 cm.
2. Cut out the piece with scissors.
3. A section with an indent of 1 cm is bent with pliers at an angle of 90 °, the second edge is also bent, but at a slight angle.
4. The workpiece is rolled up in the form of a pipe, while both folded edges should enter one into the other.
5. Using a hammer, the pipe is lightly crushed to give it shape and make it easier to connect to the next element.

gutter

How to make a semicircular gutter yourself? Ideally, this work requires special equipment, since without it the product will have an uneven shape, but if it is not available, you can try to do it on your own.

A workpiece is cut out of a metal sheet, its pipe or tree trunk of the required diameter is applied, and the workpiece is given the required shape with the help of a mallet.

Funnel

The part consists of two glass pipes of different diameters, the diameter of which must be equal to the diameter of the pipe. The components are made independently using the method described above, however, in the manufacture of the edges, they should not flare inward, but outward.

Installation of a self-made drainage system

When all the elements are ready, proceed to the assembly of the drainage system.

Installation can be carried out in various ways, the choice of method depends on the fasteners and the time of year when the work is carried out.

It is advisable to install a drainage system even before the roof has been covered. The most reliable and successful way is to install it on a rafter or on the outer beam of a pitched roof. This allows you to protect the suspended fastening structures from rain by covering them with a cornice strip.

If the roof is already installed, use a different method.

Work order

First, brackets are attached that will support the gutters. They are placed every 55-60 cm, while the level should decrease towards the drain. The holders should be installed so that the roof overhang extends about a third of the semicircle, the remaining two thirds will collect rainwater flowing from the roof.

To install brackets on a wooden plank of the cornice under the desired slope, use the following method:

1. Mount the highest positioned holder.
2. Install the bracket located at the lowest point (increase the slope by 5 mm every meter). If the recommended angle of inclination is not maintained, water drainage will be difficult, and leaks may occur.
3. Two installed brackets are connected with a thin rope, a line is drawn along the wall along the rope.
4. At the required distance, the remaining supporting elements are installed, placing them along the marked line.

After that, the gutter is installed, a plug is placed on the edge located above everything. At the junction with the gutter of the pipe, a hole is cut out for the funnel, and the latter is installed.

After these works proceed to the installation of sewage pipes. Clamps are used to secure them along the wall.

If there is a storm sewer on the site, the pipe is diverted to it. In its absence, in the case of water drainage into the soil, the pipe is placed at a distance of 30-35 cm above the ground.

To prevent the system from becoming clogged with fallen leaves, it is advisable to install protective nets on the gutters. They will not interfere with the collection of water, but will protect the gutters and pipes from large debris.

In ready-made systems, such protection is almost always supplied as a kit, and with the independent manufacture of a drainage system, it is easy to do it yourself.

This will require a metal mesh in rolls. Having cut the strips, the width of which is slightly greater than the diameter of the gutter, it is fixed on the elements of the discharge system using conventional plastic clamps.

Both ready-made and do-it-yourself drainage systems need to be regularly inspected and cleaned of contaminants. Even a metal mesh will not protect the structure from dirt, dust, and small debris getting inside. Accumulating, they can impede the outflow of water or form blockages in the pipes. This can lead to the fact that water will fall on the walls of the house and erode the foundation.

Having learned how to properly make gutters for the roof with your own hands, you can save a lot if you do all the work on the manufacture and installation of the produced system yourself. At the same time, it is important to carefully observe the technology of work, and when drawing up the installation diagram, accurately measure. The design, made in accordance with all the rules, will reliably cope with the task and will last for many years.

Is it possible to save money on a drainage system? In search of cheap options for organizing rainwater drainage, craftsmen are trying to make parts for gutters on their own, from improvised means: plastic containers, galvanized steel sheets, pipes. Is this saving justified? Which is more profitable: buy factory parts or make your own? How long will a homemade gutter last? In any case, there are only 2 ways to spend less:

1. Save on installation and assemble and install the drain yourself.
2. Figure out how to make a funnel and gutter from improvised materials, and design your own system.

Copper gutter system

System calculation: home drain planning

At the planning stage, markings are made - they mark the installation sites of horizontal (gutters) and vertical (gutters) lines. After determining the footage, the number of additional parts that are needed to assemble the system is calculated: fasteners, plugs, connectors, funnels and adapters.

Gutter footage and number of funnels: how to calculate correctly

The number of horizontal lines depends on the design of the roof and the length of the slopes. The simplest system of two gutters and two downpipes is the best option for a gable roof with a total area of ​​​​up to 100 square meters. m and a slope length not exceeding 10 m.

Scheme for calculating the number of drain lines

In this case, there is no need to make a double slope from the center. And you can make a gutter for a drain both from ready-made and from home-made parts. The length of the horizontal tray is equal to the length of the slope. Diameter - 10 - 12 cm. The slope of the drain is up to 2 - 3 mm per linear meter. Factory parts are produced in standard length - 3 m.

The number of funnels designed to drain water from the tray into the downpipe is equal to the number of horizontal lines. If the length of the straight section is more than 10 - 12 meters, then 2 funnels and 2 drainpipes are installed at the edges.

Basic installation parameters for gutters

If the total number of funnels in the planned scheme is two, then it is easy to calculate the length of the drainpipes. The height of the building from the lower edge of the roof to ground level is multiplied by 2.

When planning more complex structures, calculations are performed for straight lines, drains and installation is planned in difficult areas (on ledges, in corners) with the selection of special products - corner connectors.

Additional details: mounting hooks and connectors

To make a gutter for a drain, you will additionally need:

• 2 plugs per horizontal line.

• Connectors - every 3 m if finished parts are connected.

• Brackets - 10 m - 20 pcs. The distance between the hooks should be within 50 - 60 cm.

Hooks are selected depending on the type of fastening. If a strong gable board is installed under the roof slope, not sheathed with clapboard, it is more convenient to install the box on short brackets.

When fixing to the rafter sheathing, ready-made adjustable or non-adjustable hooks with an extension are selected. Such fasteners can be made independently from strips of thick steel 3–4 cm wide.

To connect the funnel to the pipe, you will need 2 elbows of 40 o to bring the drain to the pipe installation line. To fix the pipe to the walls, special holders or clamps are used. Connect pipes with connectors.

Which is cheaper: make gutters yourself or buy ready-made ones

After calculating the number of parts and the total length of the horizontal and vertical branches, you can choose: from what and how to make a gutter and drain funnels in order to both save money and install a system that will last at least 10 years.

Plastic PVC designs

The easiest way to make your own gutter is to assemble a line of prefabricated PVC trays and connectors. Plastic systems are cheaper than metal-polymer ones. Processing and installation do not require special skills. The material is easily cut with a hacksaw, the kit includes all the necessary connectors. Assembly does not require professional tools.

The advantage of PVC gutters is aesthetics. It is possible to choose a system to match the roofing or the color of the sheathing of the under-roof space. The material does not fade in the sun, withstands significant temperature changes.

Metal-polymer parts

Metal-plastic gutters are steel products in a polymer shell. The cost of metal parts is higher than plastic ones. Service life of a drain - from 30 years. The material has high strength - withstands loads during the convergence and melting of snow, does not crack in frost. It is used in drainage systems without temperature restrictions.

Working with metal-polymer parts requires preparation. Cutting molded products is carried out exclusively with special scissors or a hacksaw for metal. The use of cutting discs is not allowed - the material must not be overheated during processing.

Products are transported in a protective film. When assembling, care must be taken - damage to the polymer layer must not be allowed.

The only drawback of the metal-polymer gutter is the noise of the gutters. If you plan to install a drain on a low house with an attic, quiet polymer trays are preferred.

Do-it-yourself materials for making gutter parts

To make a funnel drain and a gutter with your own hands, use galvanized steel and plastic pipes for external sewage.

Steel factory gutter

Galvanized steel is sold in the form of sheets. To make parts, you need certain skills in working with metal. A system assembled from handicraft products will not be durable - during cutting, a thin zinc layer is damaged, and the edges at the cutting point remain without an anti-corrosion coating.

To work with steel you will need:

• A special bending machine or wooden blanks to be used as the basis for forming the gutter.

Bending a sheet on a wooden base

• Scissors or grinder for cutting.

The sheets are cut according to the planned dimensions, bent in shape and the edge is folded in the form of a fold for the subsequent connection of the part.

The parts of the box are connected to each other in two ways: by hot soldering or by installing steel connectors, which are fixed with screws.

It is unprofitable to make gutters from steel sheets on your own. Disadvantages:

• Difficulties with the connection due to inaccuracies in the geometry of the parts.

Special machine for working with steel

1. Short service life - before the appearance of holes in a handicraft assembled box, a maximum of 2 - 3 years pass.
2. The process is laborious and time consuming.

It is better to try to assemble a simple system of sewer pipes. Select parts intended for installation outside: pipes for external sewerage - orange. You will have to put up with the color - white or gray pipes are designed for indoor installation, the material of manufacture does not have frost resistance, resistance to ultraviolet radiation and high temperature. Taking into account the fact that in summer the drain is under direct sunlight at a temperature of 40 degrees, and in winter - at 20 degrees below zero, pipes for internal work will not be able to last even 1 season.

Details for self-production of a drain

For work you will need:

• Half of the planned footage of gutters in the form of orange sewer pipes with a diameter of 100 mm.

• Pipe couplings - according to the number of connection points on horizontal branches.

Gutter coupling

• Pipes for a drain in an amount equal to the estimated footage of drains.

• Adapters with a tap to make do-it-yourself funnels for a drain.

Tee with 90° elbow - for funnel

• Elbows: 2 for each funnel.

Elbows with different angles are used for installation when changing direction: in corners, under the funnel

• Sealant for plastic - frost-resistant and moisture-resistant, for outdoor use. You can use an acrylic or silicone based adhesive.

For convenient work and quick installation, you can choose pipes of the same diameter for gutters and drains and thus save on waste.

How to make a gutter and fix the funnel with your own hands

To assemble and fasten horizontal sections of the drain, you will need simple tools:

• A ruler with a level, chalk or pencil, fishing line or thread.

• Screwdriver, self-tapping screws.

Mounting brackets: installation of ready-made and homemade mounts

First of all, it is necessary to fix the brackets under the roof - hooks that hold the trays.

When using short non-adjustable brackets, mark the extreme point on the gable board where the first fastener will be fixed. The distance from the edge of the roof is up to 15 cm. From this point, a line with a slope is formed. The distance to the last fastener in meters is multiplied by 2. The resulting value is the height difference in millimeters between the first and last bracket.

Hook to end distance

Example. If the distance between the hooks is 8 m, then the height difference is: 8 x 2 = 16 mm. This is the minimum allowable slope value. Maximum - 8 x 3 = 24 mm.

Slope and calculation of the number of brackets

The installation points of the extreme elements are connected. Brackets are attached along the marked line in increments of 50 cm.

If hooks with extension strips are installed, then after fixing the first bracket to the flooring, measure the distance between the top edge of the board and the middle of the hook. From this point, a slope is formed towards the funnel.

An easy way to do the right slope

To simplify the process, you can mark the fold directly on the extension strips. Lay out a series of numbered hooks end to end. Draw a straight line from the first bend point. On the extreme bracket, measure the required slope value and put a mark below the first line. Connect to a dot on the first element. During installation, the hooks are attached to the line, and according to the marking, the extension cord is simply bent.

Mounting brackets with extensions

Assembly of plastic and metal-plastic structures

Plastic trays are interconnected using special parts. The junction points are calculated so that the distance from the edge of the connector to the hook is at least 2 cm. If connectors with rubber seals are selected, then the gutter is installed so that there is a gap of 5–6 cm between the edges of the two connected trays. This distance is sufficient for free movement details during thermal expansion.

The second method is glue. The connector is treated with an adhesive: 3 strips of sealant are applied. Two - at the edges and one central. The groove is pressed against the connector, the adhesive residue is removed.

Plastic plugs are installed along the edges of the line.

Plugs, funnel and brackets at the edge of the line

The funnel is mounted according to the connector principle. Make sure that the distance from the outermost bracket to the edge of the funnel is up to 5 cm. If the factory funnel is equipped with a sealant, then additional sealing is not carried out.

The connection is made on brackets or parts connected on the ground are installed if 2 craftsmen work.

Instructions for the manufacture and assembly of PVC pipes

When choosing sewer pipes for a homemade drain, pay attention to 2 important points:

1. Choose products of the middle price category - preferably from frost-resistant PVC for laying in the ground.
2. Do not skimp on connectors - they should be of the same material as the pipes (orange, for outdoor installation), from the same manufacturer.

How to make a gutter from an ordinary sewer pipe? Cut along the pipe exactly in the center: you will get two gutters 3 m long. For gutters, it is better to buy pipes without connecting sockets.

Gutter slope from sewer pipes

For cutting, use a hacksaw, a jigsaw, or a grinder with a disk (preferably with large teeth).

Tray with roof connector

The couplings are also cut in half - 2 gutter connectors are obtained. There is a seal inside the coupling - it is cut separately and placed in the part.

Marking for cutting pipes and joining parts

Joints must be sealed with acrylic or silicone construction sealant.

What to make a stub? When buying tees for funnels, choose products with decorative lids. The lid must be cut into 2 halves, glued with sealant to the edges of the tray.

Tee with factory threaded cap

Just like the connector, cut the top of the tee. The product is cut so that the outlet is under the gutter. Fix the funnel on the sealant or screws. A knee is attached to the lower branch with a bell facing upwards.

Artistic homemade funnel from a sewer tee

The pipe is assembled from pipes with connecting sockets. On the top pipe, you need to install a branch at 40 - 90 ° to connect the drain to the gutter. Measure the length of the segment between the knees. Cut off a piece of pipe without sockets and connect the system.

In the lower part, a branch is installed - a knee, the part is cut so that the drain falls into the center of the storm water inlet or into the ground, at a distance of up to 40 - 50 cm from the edge of the blind area.

Video: how to make a gutter for a drain from a sewer pipe

Is it worth saving on plumbing? If the roof structure is simple gable or four-pitched, you can save on installation work. Savings on material is highly questionable. Given that even expensive outdoor sewer pipes are designed for installation in the ground, and not in the open air, then it is impossible to predict how long a home-made system will last. In addition to fragility, there is another drawback: a very controversial appearance of the structure. Such drains are suitable only for temporary outbuildings in the country.

Budget plastic gutters are designed for year-round use in all weather conditions. Special connectors, brackets and adapters will facilitate the installation process. And if you choose glueless connectors, then you can assemble the system in a couple of hours.

Each person is familiar with the situation when, during a rainy period of time, in the absence of a drainage system, water begins to flow down the roof, thereby destroying the sidewalk, the concrete blind area. Also, excess moisture is formed in the basement of the house, the building is destroyed.

Therefore, when building a house, it is necessary to take into account the fact that one cannot do without a drainage system. Its main task is to protect the facade from flooding, destruction of the foundation of the building.

This article will discuss how to do the work related to the installation and construction of a drain with your own hands.

Types of drainage systems

When it has already been definitely decided that it is necessary to purchase and install a drainage system,
There is no question of choosing a specific type.

There are three main types of such systems:

1. Gutter system made of copper. Copper drains are ideally combined with a tiled roof. In terms of cost, they are not cheap options. But if you have purchased tile material, then it is strongly worth spending money on a copper drain. The effectiveness of this combination justifies its costs.
2. Drainage system made of plastic. This type of system is combined with a soft type of tile.
3. Gutter system made of metal. It is effectively combined with a covering from a metal tile.

As usual, the more expensive the materials, the more durable it is. This also applies to drainage. The quality of the gutter directly depends on the cost, regardless of the type of material, whether it is plastic or metal gutter.

For the final decision on the choice of the type of drain, you need to take into account the material from which the roof will be made. You also need to take into account the calculations associated with the approximate volume of similar water.

Gutter types

Gutters are usually distinguished by the type of material and the shape of the section.

Based on the shape of the section, the following types are distinguished:

1. Semicircular type of gutters. A distinctive feature is the versatility in use. Because of this factor, they have become very popular to use. The rigidity of the elements, resistance to stress, specially sharpened shape of the tray - for this they are preferred by many homeowners.
2. Semi-elliptical type. This type has a high capacity, which is ideal for use in houses with a large roof area.

According to the type of material, the following types are distinguished:

1. Plastic gutters. Plastic gutters are well tolerated by atmospheric influences due to the fact that in the process of their creation, the process of coating with acrylic paint is carried out. This allows you to hide small defects that appeared during the production process. Installation of such gutters is carried out by gluing or by fixing.
2. Steel gutters. Steel gutters are coated with polymers before commissioning, which makes them resistant to corrosion and oxidation. You can also give such a gutter any color that matches the color of the facade. Such gutters are connected using specialized latches, brackets, and a holder.
3. Aluminum gutters. These types of gutters are usually coated with paint, thereby providing protection against corrosion. Connections are carried out by sealing the joints and by fastening using paste and glue.

Principle of operation

Despite the variety of types of drainage, the principles of their work are not much different from each other. Basically, many people have roofs at an angle, which means that in such houses the drain is mounted on the outside of the building.

Funnels are installed in the corners of the house, into which water enters after it is in the gutter. The location of the funnels is located on the overhang of the cornices, the pitch of which varies from twelve to twenty meters.

The water is drained through externally installed pipes into the so-called “downpour”, or into a special well, the volume of which should be large.

In older types of houses, a slightly different system is used, which is called a parapet gutter. In such structures, water is collected in a common tray, which is built between the walls of the parapet.

It is an integral part of the roof. The manufacture of such a gutter is made of metal, isolating the recess from the water pipe with bitium.
In the node in which the junction occurs, a gutter is installed that directs water into the drain.

Gutter manufacturing
(tools and material, pipe assembly)

The gutter manufacturing process consists of the following steps:

1. Project work, which includes the calculation of dimensions, the arrangement of the entire system, the slope, what will the cornice gutter itself be: round or square; if round, then the diameter of the circle, the method of attaching the hook-brackets, as well as what materials you will need to buy.
2. metal cutting. This is the first step in the manufacturing process. For its implementation, you must use the guillotine. Its length varies depending on the length that is necessary for the manufacture of the drain.
3. Building a castle. To perform work related to the creation of the castle, it is necessary to use specialized machines from a folding bender. Suitable models FG-1300, FG-2000, which have lengths of 1300 millimeters and 2000 millimeters, respectively.
4. Pipe bending. In order to bend the pipes, it is necessary to use manual rollers. Their length directly depends on the length of the pipe. Folder benders with a length of 1250 millimeters are standard. But there are also 2000 mm machines. Their acquisition will simplify the process of bending pipes and significantly contribute to its acceleration.
5. Installing a lock on a pipe. This process takes place with the help of machines.
6. Elbow production. Flanged machines are needed to produce gutter elbows. They can bend edges, connect pipes and gutters, connect drainpipes.
7. Gutter bending. For this you need to use rollers.

Installation of fasteners, methods of fastening the bracket

The gutter installation process involves the preliminary installation of brackets. Their production comes from various kinds of materials.

Bracket mounting methods are divided into the following four types:

1. Installation on the front of the board. This method is used in a situation where all installation work with the roof has already been completed. This is the best way to fix plastic pipes.
2. If there is no front board, the brackets are fixed to the truss elements.
3. If the above methods are not suitable for some reason, in a situation where the roof is covered, fasten the metal pins to the wall, and install the gutter on them.
4. This way is to install the bracket on the roof sheathing.

A feature of the installation of the gutter is the use of special clamps, which are mainly made of metal. This clamp should not be located close to the drainpipe, because due to high temperature the material is prone to change its shape, which can lead to cracks.

Gutter fixing

In order to properly mount the gutter, you will need the following tools:

• Level
• Roulette
• Construction angle
• Hacksaw for cutting metal

Gutters, compared with the roof, should protrude 25 percent from the near corner of the house. And the far edge should be below the plane of the roof.

For the direct installation of the gutter, the following installation sequence must be observed:

1. Primarily it is necessary to mark the brackets, attaching them at the required angle of inclination
2. Pull the cord between the installed brackets. This contributes to the correct layout of the installation of the remaining elements.
3. Perform installation brackets located between the two main
4. Make fasteners drain funnel
5. Perform installation, install plugs. And install protective nets in the plugs.

Heating of gutters and gutters

Heating of gutters is carried out by means of use of a special heating cable and automatic equipment.

There are two types of heating cables:

1. Resistivity cable. It is a simple cable, which consists of an insulating component and a metal core. It has constant resistance, unchanging heating temperature. Its connection is carried out by connecting to a closed circuit.
2. Self-regulating cable. It applies to roof overhangs. In its composition it has a matrix that reacts to temperature and changes the resistance, and an insulating sheath that overlaps the outer one.

Both of these cables are capable of heating the drain, but it is still more expedient to use each of them for its intended purpose. So, the first type of cable is inexpensive, but it requires little electricity. And the second, respectively, requires more energy, but adjusts to the ambient temperature.

Experts advise to combine the use of cables. There are resistive cables in the roof, and self-regulating in the gutters. This option is the most appropriate.
It is worth considering that from time to time there is a need to clean the funnel and gutters from falling leaves and dirt. It is enough to carry out this procedure once a year.

To maintain the durability of the system, it is best to install a special snow retainer. It will help control the accumulation of snow, thereby protecting the gutter and its components from the deformation that occurs during overload.

It should be understood that factors such as reliability and strength are important and should not be neglected, but it is worth ensuring the tightness of the system by removing all seams and cracks. Subject to all the above tips and rules, the drainage system will last a long time.