Garden. Tips and ideas for summer residents and gardeners, Dacha

Spring work on your own summer cottage start with planning your garden. It may seem a simple task. But in order to get a good harvest, it is necessary to take into account important factors that influence the location certain crops and varieties of plants in the beds. To provide good harvest it is important to plant plants according to the cardinal directions, soil composition, required lighting, terrain of the site. It is necessary to follow the rules of crop rotation.

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Basics of proper garden planning

You can start planning your garden now. in early spring when the snow melted and the soil dried out a little. For summer residents with many years of experience, this process is not particularly difficult. Those who are just taking their first steps in gardening should take into account the basic rules that you need to know in order to properly plant plants on your site.

If a summer resident decides to plan his garden for the first time, then he needs to pay attention to the following factors:

1. 1. Cardinal directions. Planning the location of the beds should be carried out only in length from north to south. Placement from northeast to southwest is allowed. If you plant crops taking into account the cardinal directions, this will ensure uniform supply of sunlight to the garden bed and prevent the development of many fungal diseases. In the southern part of the site, planting of heat-loving crops should be carried out. This could be beans, cucumbers, tomatoes. In the north, cold-resistant plants should be planted: turnips, radishes, rutabaga. It is recommended to plant corn on the north side, which can protect the beds from strong wind. Sunflowers, gooseberry or currant bushes are suitable for this purpose.
2. 2. When creating a planting plan, you should take into account the composition of the soil, especially if plants will be planted in this place for the first time. Additives should be applied in the fall depending on the type of soil. The ideal time is a month before planting seedlings in the ground.
3. 3. The scheme for planting vegetables in the garden should take into account the lighting features required for different cultures. The only one in an effective way influence on the illumination of beds is thinning or cutting down trees. It is not recommended to plant seedlings under the lush crowns of apple and pear trees. These trees can grow from the northern part of the garden bed. This way it will be possible to protect the plantings from strong winds. If there is land in the northern part of the site that can be equipped for beds, then you should plant shade-loving plants for whom strong rays of the sun are undesirable. It could be sorrel or onion. If you plant seedlings of tomatoes, cucumbers or peppers in the shade, they will wither. One more good option It will be possible to grow flowers in the northern part, since cultivating vegetables in such conditions is risky.
4. 4. Relief of the site. If the site is characterized by the presence of some unevenness, then it must be taken into account that in the lowlands in the spring the snow melting process will take place more slowly, and during periods of intense rain there will be water standing in such places. To get rid of excess moisture, you should take care of the drainage system in the form of small grooves. In these places you need to plant plants that require abundant and frequent watering. If the region is characterized by a hot summer period, then seedlings of peppers and tomatoes can be planted in the lowlands. In this case, you will not need to water the plants often.
5. 5. Presence of weeds. If you plan to divide the plot into beds for the first time, and before that there was simple lawn With big amount weeds, this problem can be solved in several ways. Can be removed upper layer soil and remove it. Sprinkle peat, sand and manure onto the remaining soil. This method is not particularly popular among summer residents due to its high cost and labor intensity. The other way is simpler. It consists of simply digging up the soil, and in the first year only potatoes are planted. This will allow you to get rid of weeds and next year cultivate any vegetables, even very finicky ones.

Irrigation system

When drawing up a plan for the location of the beds, you should definitely think about how the plants will be watered. Crops such as peppers, tomatoes, eggplants and cucumbers need watering every 3-4 days. Therefore, the irrigation system should be quite convenient.

At a dacha, at a minimum, there should be a tap and long hoses that could be reached to the plants. If the site has large area, then you should lay out a garden on it or plant plants that do not need frequent watering, and place the vegetable beds closer to the water source so that the distance allows regular and special costs carry out irrigation.

It is important to note that you should not moisten plants directly with tap water. It should be settled, rainwater or from a local pond or river. Large containers are used for this: old bath, metal vat, plastic barrel. To provide good pressure When watering, you should purchase a pump and place it in the middle of the container. You can water using a garden watering can, but this process will take quite a lot of time.

A good option for setting up an irrigation system is drip irrigation. If such a system already exists on the site, then the planting of vegetables will need to be “tied” to places provided with water.






Compatibility and rotation of crops

After the issue of watering, lighting and cardinal points has been resolved, one more important point should be considered. Namely, compatibility and alternation of plants in the garden.

For proper planning of beds, it is important to remember the compatibility of crops, which consists in the ability to grow, develop and protect each other side by side.

The table contains the names of crops and the degree of compatibility between plants.




It is important to pay attention to the timing of crop ripening and planting. This will allow on the same bed in different time enjoy the harvest.



Features of crop rotation

Crop rotation is an important point on which the degree of soil fatigue and the quality of the future harvest depend.

Otherwise there may bequite serious problems with growing vegetable crops.

Causes of ground fatigue

The following factors lead to soil fatigue:

1. 1. Accumulation of pathogens and pests. For example, if you grow potatoes in the same place, then the number of wireworms Colorado potato beetles will inevitably grow.
2. 2. Accumulation of toxic substances. This is another reason that confirms the need for crop rotation. Toxic root secretions – colins – accumulate in the soil. Many crops are quite sensitive to their toxins, such as beets and spinach. Therefore, if you plant these plants in one place, then every year the harvest will get worse and worse.
3. 3. The need for adequate nutrition. Each vegetable crop has its own requirements for soil nutrition. It is important to take into account this feature of the crops being planted. If you plant related plants for several years in a row, they will suck all the beneficial substances from the soil.

To understand this more accurately, it is necessary to take into account that all vegetable crops can be divided into several categories according to how demanding the plant is to the soil.

To properly draw up a plan, you need to divide the site into 4 zones:

1. 1. Perennial crops, such as strawberries.
2. 2. Demanding.
3. 3. Moderately demanding.
4. 4. Undemanding.


Next year demanding plants need to be planted where undemanding ones grew. Those with moderate demands should go to the place where the demanding ones grew up. Undemanding plants should be sent to the bed where moderately demanding ones grew. This rotation should be done every year. This will allow the soil to rest a bit.

The table shows the predecessors and successors of vegetable crops. It is important to remember that the culture returns to its previous place no earlier than after 3–4 years.



It is important to take into account the fact that human memory is not unlimited. It is very difficult to remember exactly what crop grew in a certain area 5 years ago.

During the sowing process, it is necessary to record in a notebook the dimensions of the bed with a certain vegetable. This is necessary so that next year you can “put together” the pieces of the plantings like a mosaic.

If it is not possible to change the location for a certain crop, then you can simply plant another compatible crop nearby that can efficiently process and absorb harmful toxins.

Mixed planting should really be like that. It is better to plant not half a bed at a time, but alternate a row of one plant and a row of another, not by year, but within the same year.

Other site planning features

The width of the bed should not exceed 100 cm. Otherwise, this will greatly complicate the process of caring for plants. Between the beds you must leave at least 40 cm for garden paths.




If you plan to cultivate tall tomatoes or fragile cucumbers, you should take care of reliable supports. To do this, you can build a fence with a lattice along which it will be convenient for cucumbers to climb.

An ordinary vegetable garden is an amazing place, a special plot of land, which, through the efforts of its owners, turns into an almost inexhaustible source of not only vitamins and fresh vegetables, but also a whole series of “by-products” - health, excellent well-being and vigor.

According to experienced summer residents, working in your own garden successfully replaces working out in the gym and brings a lot of pleasure and benefit. In addition, vegetables grown on your own plot differ in taste qualities from those bought in a store or at the market, and, of course, for the better.

Spring work on plot of land start with an important task - planning a vegetable garden. It would seem that my plot, I plant whatever I want, and the choice is not too great - on the standard six hundred square meters you won’t be able to do much. And yet, the harvest largely depends on the choice of place for a certain variety of vegetables, so planning a garden should be approached with all responsibility.

What factors should you pay attention to when planning your garden? What vegetables are best to plant and where?

Working in the garden is not necessarily hard work and daily hassle. Gardening brings a lot of pleasure and benefits

Planning your garden correctly

So, you have already prepared the seeds and even grown seedlings at home. All that remains is to decide where exactly to plant all the plants by choosing optimal place on your site for certain types of vegetables. You can start planning your garden in early spring, when the snow has completely melted from the site and the soil has dried well.

In general, plot planning, which is carried out by a summer resident with many years of experience in gardening, looks like this - the owner simply walks along already equipped paths, leaving sticks and pegs in the ground and muttering to himself: “Here are two beds of peppers,” “And here there will be tomatoes.” . In fact, only many years of experience working on the site allows summer residents to approach garden planning in such a simple way. Less for experienced gardeners It’s worth listening to the advice of professionals and approaching the process of planning vegetable planting scientifically.

An ideal vegetable garden looks like this - even rows of green, healthy plants that promise a high yield.

If you decide to plant a vegetable garden on a newly acquired plot of land for the first time, you will have to take into account several main factors:

1. Sides of the world. Experts advise laying out beds for future plantings strictly in length from north to south or from northeast to southwest. This way the plantings will be warmed up and illuminated by the sun’s rays as evenly as possible throughout the day. It has been proven that with this arrangement of beds, plants are less susceptible to fungal diseases. The southern, slightly warmer and better lit side should be given to heat-loving crops such as beans, tomatoes and cucumbers, and the northern side to cold-resistant crops - radishes, turnips and rutabaga. To protect plants from cold winds, it is better to plant dense rows of corn, sunflowers or berry bushes, for example, gooseberries or currants.

1. Soil composition. If vegetable crops are planted in this area for the first time, it is necessary to study the composition of the soil. If the soil is clayey, you will need to first add straw manure, sand, compost, turf soil and mineral fertilizers to the soil. If the soil is sandy, then ideal additives would be peat, manure and mineral fertilizers. In case of increased acidity of the soil, it is necessary to add lime additives - quicklime or slaked lime, and wood ash. Of course, all of the above additives can be applied in the fall, but experts call the optimal period for adjusting the composition of the soil early spring- about a month before planting seedlings and seeds.

1. Illumination. The illumination of the area can only be influenced by cutting down existing trees. It is strictly not recommended to plant seedlings under the lush crowns of apple or pear trees. Trees can only grow on the northern side of the garden - this way they will not cover the plants from the sun's rays and at the same time protect them from the cold wind. If there is a free piece of land on the north side of the house, it is better to plant there unpretentious plants, for example, sorrel or onions, for which excess sun is even harmful. Tomatoes or cucumbers will definitely wither in the shade. It’s even better to give up such a northern front garden for flowers, since growing vegetables here is quite risky.

1. Relief of the site. If the site has an uneven topography, then in the spring the soil in the lowlands will thaw and dry out much longer than the soil at higher elevations. In addition, in heavy rain, water will stand in such areas. That is, it is necessary to take care of a system of drainage grooves that will help get rid of excess moisture. In such low-lying places, professionals advise planting cabbage and other moisture-loving plants. But, if in your region summers are usually dry and hot, then you can plant both tomatoes and peppers in low-lying areas - in this case, you will have to water the seedlings a little less often.

If in the area where you plan to plant a vegetable garden, previously only weeds grew and there was an ordinary lawn, the owners have two options: remove the top layer of soil with the roots of the weeds completely, remove them from the area and add peat, rotted manure and, if necessary, to the soil. sand; or simply dig up the area and plant potatoes here in the first year. The first option is too labor-intensive and expensive, so it is not popular among gardeners. In the second case, in the first year the potato harvest will be low, but most of the weeds will disappear and the next season you can plant any, even the most finicky vegetables.

When starting to plan a vegetable garden for the first time, it is worth taking into account the characteristics of the soil and the location of the beds relative to the cardinal directions.

Irrigation system

When planning a garden, you need to pay special attention to the irrigation system. Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and eggplants in central regions with fairly dry summers have to be watered regularly - literally every three to four days. Therefore, for vegetables, it is better to choose areas that can be watered without any special costs or problems.

The minimum program is that hoses from an outdoor tap must reach the beds. If your plot of land is too large, and the tap is located next to the house, then in remote areas it is better to lay out a garden or plant especially resistant plants that do not need additional watering. In this case, it is better to move the garden closer to the water source.

Remember that experts do not recommend watering the beds with water directly from the tap. The best option- already settled water, warmed up in the sun, or even better - collected rainwater, or water from a local pond or river. If you want to listen to the advice of professionals, you will need to install a large enough container next to the beds for water - rainwater or regular water from the tap. Even an old cast iron or steel bath, a spacious, specially ordered metal vat or large plastic barrel. In addition, you will also need a water pump, which will lower into the container and provide excellent pressure when watering. You can, of course, water the beds with a watering can, but this is too long a process.

Another great option for an irrigation system is drip irrigation. If your site already has such a system, then the planting of vegetables will have to be “tied” precisely to the plots already provided with water.

Don’t want to spend a lot of time watering vegetables manually with a watering can or stand for hours in the garden with a hose in your hands? Take care of the system drip irrigation, which will save both time and money on paying for water supply

Every vegetable has its place

Have you figured out the cardinal directions, lighting and watering? All that remains is to find out all the nuances regarding the compatibility of individual varieties of vegetables and their rotation in your garden. Every experienced summer resident knows that if last year, for example, potatoes grew in this area, then this year it is worth planting some other vegetables.

Thus, all vegetable crops are usually divided into:

1. Demanding, requiring large amounts of nutrients. These include cabbage, zucchini, cucumber, pumpkin, tomatoes, peppers and celery.
2. Moderately demanding. Such vegetables need fertilizing only once a year, unlike demanding ones, which have to be “fed” both in spring and autumn. These vegetables include: eggplant, onions, potatoes, carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce, kohlrabi and garlic.
3. Undemanding. Crops that cost the bare minimum useful substances. These are peas, beans, parsley, dill, sage, basil and other seasonings.

In order to correctly draw up a plan for planting seeds and seedlings, the garden should be divided into four sections:

1. One to allocate for perennial plants, for example, strawberries and strawberries, which will have to be replanted no more often than once every three to four years.
2. The second area is reserved for demanding plants.
3. The third is for medium-demanding crops.
4. And the fourth, of course, for undemanding plants.

After a year, particularly fastidious plants need to be planted in the area where undemanding plants grew, moderately demanding ones - in a plot where the harvest of demanding plants has already been harvested, and undemanding plants, accordingly, are sent to the area where averagely demanding plants grew last year. cultivated plants.

This rotation is carried out every year and allows the soil to rest a little and get a higher yield.

Plants with different levels of nutrient requirements must be alternated with each other when planting a vegetable garden.

In addition, when planning the location of the beds, it is necessary to take into account the compatibility of plants. The compatibility of cultures lies in the ability to grow side by side, strengthening, complementing and protecting each other.

So, it is quite possible to sow onions, garlic or radishes between the rows of tomatoes. An ideal “seal” for carrots or beets would be dill or lettuce. And rows of potatoes can be combined with planting peas, which will be harvested earlier and “provide” their roots as an excellent fertilizer for potato tubers.

Experts say that the ideal predecessors for cabbage are nightshades, that is, tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplants, as well as cucumbers, legumes or onions.

In turn, it is better to plant cucumber seedlings in the place where peppers or spinach grew last year. The optimal predecessors for carrots and beets are cucumbers, tomatoes and peas.

Another important point is that different periods of ripening and planting of plants allow you to get two harvests of different crops in one area. For example, in early spring you can sow onions or radishes, and after harvesting, plant them in this plot melons or tomatoes. After the garlic or onion has already been harvested, winter radish or lettuce will do well in this area.

Plant compatibility is an important factor when planning a vegetable garden.

Bed sizes

When planning your garden, do not forget about comfortable paths at least 30-40 centimeters wide, which will allow you to harvest tomatoes and peppers without harming flowering and fruit-bearing plants.

The optimal width of the bed is 80-100 centimeters. If the bed is wider, it will make caring for plants and watering more difficult.

If you lay not just dirt paths between the beds, but real paths made of stone or boards, then you can harvest even on the rainiest day or immediately after heavy watering, without fear of getting your shoes dirty

In addition, do not forget that cucumbers grow better, bear fruit and take up much more space. less space, if you provide them with support on which they can curl. In this case, picking cucumbers will be much more convenient. Some tomato varieties, such as the tiny, delicious cherry tomatoes, also need support. Therefore, when planning beds with such tall and fragile crops, you need to take care of a fence or trellis on which cucumbers and tall seedlings tomatoes will be able to lean.

Tall tomato shoots need support, and cucumbers creeping along the ground will take up too much space. Plant them near the hedge and collect bountiful harvest It will be much more pleasant, and most importantly - easier!

And finally two more important points- firstly, in the garden you also need to leave space for a compost heap, where you will throw away the remains of shoots and leaves in the fall, which will become excellent in the future organic fertilizer. Compost pile can be located at the very end of the site, in the shade, that is, in a place that, due to its properties, is not suitable for planting useful plants.

Secondly, most likely you will be building a greenhouse or greenhouse for early vegetables and seedlings. For such a structure it is also necessary to allocate appropriate place in the sun.

Approach planning your garden thoughtfully and seriously, try to place crops with good compatibility nearby, alternate different families of vegetables in the same area, try to plant both early and early vegetables in the same bed. late varieties vegetables to get two harvests a year - and not even large vegetable garden ik will provide your entire family with fresh herbs during the warm season, and the pantry will be filled with jars of home-made preserves in the fall.

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G. food plant Brassica oleracea. Straya, outer leaves of the head and fork; white, clean forks, without these leaves. Curly, winter or brucole, does not curl; There are also breeds: safoy, colored, etc. We have a more common forked, cabbage. The spring feast is crushed cabbage, sauerkraut, nothing else. God do not punish with anything, like cabbage with nothing! when, in the spring, there is no bread. The cabbage is neither thick nor empty. I eat, I ate cabbage, but my belly is empty. Bread and cabbage will not be tolerated. There was cabbage, but it became empty. Cabbage tastes good, and salt tastes good, Kaluga. The cabbage is not empty, it flies into the mouth itself. Cabbage is better empty: at least the belly is not empty. Cabbage from the bush is thick, but tasteless. The cabbage is not thick, the cabbage soup wait, but the bread and porridge have not been ours for a long time. Came out. (or came) honor on cabbage, that is, on empty cabbage soup, during fasting, or in poverty. I would go to my neighbor’s house to eat cabbage, but they won’t let me into the yard. Don’t meddle with the cabbage until they let it in (they’ll let it in). Mash the turnips so they can give you cabbage. I went to Crimea for cabbage. You will become a cabbage, and you will become a cabbage. plant cabbage in someone else's garden, take care of other people's affairs. A ham of cabbage, a head of ham. To prevent worms on cabbage, plant nettles at the ends of the ridge. They don’t plant cabbages on Thursday to avoid being eaten by worms. I ran away from cabbage and ended up on brugma (rutabaga). When sowing cabbage, pour the grains from hand to hand, otherwise it will not be cabbage, but rutabaga, zap. Blagoveshchensk cabbage is not blighted, that is, from seeds allegedly collected at the Annunciation, from cabbage. When planting cabbage, they say: don’t be long-legged, be big-bellied; don't be empty, be thick; don't be red, be tasty; don't be old, be young; don't be small, but be big. Sometimes talk. pour me some cabbage, vm. cabbage soup, cabbage soup Sea kale, algae, Fucus. Tatar cabbage, Bashkir cabbage, sour cabbage, plant. Polygonum polymorphum. aquatic, plant Potamogaton natans. hare, Вurleorum, boyar snya or volodushka; also: Ohalis, sorrel, pellet; Sedum telephium, consumable; Sempervivum, earthen jelly; Sonchus oleraceus, milkweed; Тurritis, youngster. Cabbage will detract. or cabbage plural north eastern cabbage yarosl cabbage perm. help for cutting cabbage, a kind of holiday, gatherings, usually near Vozdvizhenye; cabbage, September day. Sergius the Cabbage Man. The cabbage maker is also a cabbage merchant and a gardener who makes her living by planting cabbage; cabbage hunter; one of the girls with cabbage rolls. Cabbage, Sedum acre plant, young, guillemot. Cabbage m. cabbage garden; cabbage pie; gardener or cabbage seller; hunter before her; the cabbage worm and the butterfly itself, the white butterfly. Burrowing hare, panty, rabbit. Sucker, sea cow, Steller's cow, related to manatees, with manats; herbivore, toothless (millstone teeth in cups), eats seaweed (algae), Rhytina borealis (Stelleri), exterminated completely from

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A vegetable garden is a source of pleasure and useful activity In spring and summer. Plan to grow the vegetables your family loves most, then find the best place to plant it in your garden (or patio). With a little time and care, your summer table will be full of ripe, delicious produce.

Steps

Planting planning

1. Decide what to grow. What vegetables do you like best? Think about what you'd like to have on your plate all summer and plan your garden accordingly. Most vegetables grow well in a variety of climates, but it's best to find out what grows best in your climate zone before deciding what to grow.

   • Consider choosing vegetables that ripen at different times to have fresh produce throughout the summer, rather than having them all ripen at the same time.
   • Some plants do not grow as well in some regions as they do in their native region. Find out whether the vegetables you want to grow require cool temperatures, or whether they wither and die when the temperature gets too hot. You may have to be more selective about what you grow if you live in a climate with very short summer or in an area that suffers from a lack of water.
   • Choose plants that need the same growing conditions and soil conditions to make your garden easier to maintain.

2. Choose a place to plant. Most vegetables need bright sunlight, so choose the sunniest places in your garden to plant. Avoid areas that may be shaded by a house or tree during the day. Choose a location that has good drainage and rich soil.

   • You can tell if an area has good drainage by checking it after heavy rain. If puddles form, the area is probably not suitable for a vegetable garden. If the water immediately seeps into the soil, then everything is fine.
   • Choose a relatively flat one, without large quantity roots and stones area. This will make it easier to cultivate the land and prepare the beds for planting.
   • If the soil Low quality or doesn't have good drainage, you can still plant a vegetable garden by creating raised beds that allow you to grow plants above ground level.
   • Some vegetables grow well in large pots. Peppers, tomatoes and potatoes can be grown in pots on the patio or fire escape if you don't have a yard.

3. Vegetable garden design. Now it's time to figure out how much space the garden should take up and what plants will grow there. Various types Vegetable plants need different amounts of space, so figure out how much space the plants you want to grow need when you're planning your design.

   Preparing for landing

   1. Buy seeds and supplies. Decide whether you will plant vegetables from seeds or seedlings and buy them from a catalog or nursery. You also have to decide what tools you need to buy. Many gardening jobs can be done manually using simple tools, but if you plan to have a large vegetable garden, your life will be much easier if you invest in a rototiller to turn over the soil. Here's what you'll need:

      • Seeds or seedlings. Many nurseries have an excellent selection of seeds and seedlings, as well as staff who can help you decide which varieties to buy. If you decide to plant seedlings, buy them no more than a few days before planting.
      • Fertilizer. A good natural fertilizer will provide your vegetables with additional nutrients. Purchase bone meal, albumen meal, or a soil amendment mix. Compost also works quite well.
      • Mulch and topsoil. Vegetable plants should be protected from wind and heavy rain when they are first planted. Determine if mulch is needed or just a thin layer is enough fertile soil. You can also use hay to protect plant seedlings.

   2. Motor cultivator. This machine is used to loosen the soil so that fertilizer can be applied and holes can be dug for plants. For a small vegetable garden, you can simply use a hoe and your own hands, but you may want to buy or rent a motorized cultivator for a garden larger than 3 square meters.

      • Shovel and rake. They are used for digging holes and moving plants and soil, and are important gardening tools.
      • Ruler or tape measure. Because vegetable plants must be placed on different depths, it is useful to have a ruler to measure the holes you have made.
      • Hose with adjustable watering modes. The ability to change water pressure can be useful.
      • Fencing devices. Creatures like rabbits, squirrels, deer and other animals love to chew on vegetables, so you can build a fence around your vegetable garden.

   3. Prepare the soil. Mark the corners of the vegetable garden you created using rocks. Clear the area within these boundaries of roots, rocks, sticks, weeds and other large debris. Use a tiller or hoe and rake to break up the soil into small pieces, digging to a depth of about a foot, depending on how deep you want your vegetables to be planted.

      • If you use fertilizer, mix it into the soil with a rake. Make sure to distribute them evenly.
      • Be sure to take the time to remove large rocks that are hidden under the soil. They will interfere with the roots of your plants and it is best to take the time to clear them from the soil.
      • If you're concerned about the quality of the soil on your property, purchase a soil testing kit to find out how much nutrients and organic matter it contains, as well as its pH level. All of these factors determine how well vegetables grow and how nutritious they will be. Once you have tested the soil, you can add anything that may be missing.