The return of clay stoves: mastering the technology and building a clay garden stove with our own hands. Russian clay oven

In order for clay crafts to be durable and strong, they must be subjected to heat treatment. Do not burn clay conventional oven or a stove that runs on gas - this is not only ineffective, but sometimes even dangerous (toxic substances may be released during processing). For such a procedure, a special sealed oven is required, which can be heated to the required temperature. Such a device can be bought at the store, but if you wish, as well as with good instructions, you can make a clay kiln with your own hands.

Pottery kiln manufacturing technology

"Factory" furnaces, especially for professional purposes, are very expensive (over 35,000 rubles), but craftsmen have learned how to make devices for firing with their own hands. It is worth noting that, according to the type of fuel used, such furnaces can be:

• electric;
• gas;
• on wood.

We will consider only the first two, since it will be quite difficult to achieve the required temperature by burning wood. Let's start with electrical equipment. According to the location method, these kilns can be:

• muffle (in which the heating elements are located around a sealed vessel (muffle) made of fireclay material; with the help of such furnaces, Russian schools are often heated);
• chamber (the heating device is located inside).

The second option for homemade more suitable, because it is quite difficult to build a large muffle on your own, and the heat loss of the muffle design is high. Consider how you can make a chamber oven.

Method one. Making a chamber stove from a refrigerator or washing machine

For similar design You only need three basic elements:

• metal case (a washing machine or a refrigerator will do);
• heating coils;
• chamber made of fireclay material.

When everything necessary for work is ready, we proceed directly to the manufacturing process.

1. First, it strengthens the bottom of the metal case. We use a steel corner for this purpose (as an option, it can be replaced with an ordinary pipe with a diameter of 1.5 centimeters). We weld pieces of corners / pipes at the corners of the bottom - they will serve as support legs for us.



2. In addition, we need to similarly strengthen upper part boxes, doors and at least one side (the one to which the door hinges will subsequently be welded).



3. We lay a 1-centimeter layer of basalt wool on the bottom of the case (a similar layer must also be laid on the inner walls). In order to avoid deformation of the insulation under the mass of the chamber, we lay several segments metal corner or rectangular pipes. At the end of these procedures, we cover the insulation with a sheet of metal.





4. After that, we determine the refractory material that we will use in the manufacture of the chamber. Ideally, these should be fibrous fireclay slabs, which can be either cut on the spot after purchase, or ordered to the desired dimensions. Our do-it-yourself clay kiln requires six of these stoves.



There is another way - to build a chamber from heat-resistant bricks, since this material is sold everywhere and is used for laying stoves and fireplaces. For the chamber of such a furnace, it is recommended to use a lightweight brick marked "SHL" (for example, "SHL-0.5").



5. We bind the bricks with a mortar, which corresponds to the marking of the material. There are more cheap option- ordinary fireclay clay or fireclay masonry mixture.



Such a mixture is sold in the same place as brick or fireplaces. To fix the brick on metal surface, add a little cement to the mixture (about 30 percent of the total volume).



6. Now we begin directly masonry. We adjust the bricks as tightly as possible relative to each other, we make the seams between them no larger than 0.5 centimeters. If necessary, we saw individual bricks to the required dimensions.
7. We start laying from the bottom of the box. Dissolve the mixture with water and mix thoroughly. Before installing each brick, we wet it with water, otherwise the mixture will dry too intensively.

Note! To create an outer layer, we prepare the solution separately - with the addition of cement.



8. We start building walls. In the gap between the body and the brick layer we lay sheet metal and a heater. If the brick is laid flat, then we can not use the insulation.



9. The upper part will take longer: the bricks along the edges must be laid with a slight upward slope, and trapezoidal blocks should be laid between them.



The door is also laid out fireclay bricks. We make a quarter around the perimeter in such a way that as a result a ledge appears (we will bring it into the oven window).

10. We weld the hinges, adjust the door. We must ensure that the gap between the brick layer of the body and the door is minimal.



11. After the masonry has dried, we begin the next stage of work. On the surface of the bricks, we must make grooves into which the heating coil will be laid. We use a spiral nichrome wire 0.1 centimeter in diameter; the diameter of the coil will be about 0.5-0.7 centimeters. The grooves must have the same depth/thickness.



12. When heated, the wire can expand, and the spirals, in turn, “crawl out” of the grooves. Therefore, they should be fixed. The image below shows the main ways to install spirals:

• using small pieces of wire;
• through a groove located at an angle;
• through a groove having a ledge;
• using an MKR tube.

Note! Highly important point: the coils must not be in contact with each other!

We start the ends of the spirals up.

If the "speed" is the second, then only 1 circuit will be connected due to the fact that the temperature will be higher. It is characteristic that this should be the circuit that is drawn from below, so that the elements located in the lower part also heat up.

Finally, at the third "speed" the circuits are connected at the same time - here the temperature will be maximum.

A few words about how to connect this clay kiln with your own hands. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a reinforced socket - one to which it is connected electric stove. As an option, we run a large cable from the shield.

And remember: when operating such a design - with open spirals - you should be especially careful! Each, even the most insignificant mistake can lead to the most unpleasant consequences. If you are not particularly versed in electricity, then involve a professional in the work. Never touch live heating coils.

Method two. We make a stove without a metal case at hand

The manufacturing process in this case is not much different from that described above, but there are definitely some nuances here. To begin with, the working volume of the design below will be about 13 liters. The spiral, as mentioned above, can warm up to a thousand degrees in just 1.5 hours, while the temperature of the outer walls of the device will not exceed 100 degrees. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. First, using profile pipe 4x2 centimeters (with square section) we build a stand for the device. After that, paint the finished stand with enamel.

Step 2. We fix a sheet of galvanized steel on top of the stand (its thickness should be approximately 0.1 cm), using self-tapping screws "for metal".

Step 3 We make the walls from fireclay bricks and a special fireplace composition (everything is the same as in the previous version). After the solution hardens, we make grooves for the spiral.

Step 4. We assemble the bottom from bricks separately, we use the same mortar for fastening. Before continuing work, we wait for the complete drying of the structure. Do not forget to wet each brick immediately before laying.

Step 5: Over metal base we lay the thermal insulation layer (we can use the same basalt wool). In order to maximize the compaction of this layer, it must be moistened before fixing the brick bottom.

Step 6. We continue the traditional laying of the furnace, but we try to ensure that all voids and seams are carefully filled.

Step 7. The cover for the camera is traditionally made of fireclay bricks, but at the same time we fasten them together with a metal tie.

Step 8. We lay the spiral in the prepared grooves, insulate the structure from the outside with thermal insulation material. Next, we close everything with sheets of galvanized steel, which are cut in accordance with the dimensions of the resulting chamber.

As you can see, this requires knowledge not only in the furnace business, but also in the field of electricity. With one more possible way production can be found in the video below.

Video - wood burning stove

Method three. Making a vertical muffle furnace

Despite the fact that we do not recommend making this clay kiln with your own hands, we will still briefly consider its design. The design diagram is shown in the image below. It consists of a finished muffle (1) and a burner (3) from ordinary tiles. The volume of the muffle will be 3 liters, it will warm up to eight hundred degrees. The ratio should be approximately the same as in the diagram, although minor deviations are still acceptable.

We purchase the burner separately and, having installed it on a sheet of steel, we feed it from a cylinder equipped with a gearbox. With the help of a jet, we regulate the intensity of heating (the same as in conventional stove). The body (2) may not be as strong as the muffle, for this reason we make it ourselves. This will require fluffed asbestos and refractory clay.

Step 1. First of all, we ferment the clay to create a box: pour the clay powder into the prepared container, add water along the backfill line, and then forget about it for about 24 hours. After a day, we begin to knead the solution to the consistency of plasticine, add 1/4 of refractory sand there.

Step 2. Next, add one or two parts of the fluffed asbestos, carefully knead the solution. In parallel, we prepare a wax blank for the inner cone in the body. All external elements are made manually or with the help of potter's wheel. We leave holes for steel legs (although these legs can be made from the same composition).

Note! In this case, it is not necessary to check the clay for fat content. The natural fat content of this material is quite enough for this design.

Step 3. Then dry the structure for two weeks at a temperature of 25-27 degrees. After this time, we melt the wax with a household hair dryer, since it is no longer suitable for further use.

Step 4. We continue to make a clay kiln with our own hands. Now we need to burn the dried body. We lay out from dry bricks under, we enclose it metal mesh about 75 centimeters high (this is necessary so that the coals do not crumble, but oxygen is supplied to them). We place the structure on the floor, cover it with a ceramic container and fill it with firewood to the level of the top of the fence.

Step 5. We ignite the fuel from below. We add firewood until the hot coals completely hide our workpiece. After that, continuing to gradually feed the flame, we support combustion for another five to six hours. And then, when the ash cools down, we remove the workpiece.

Note! The firing procedure should be carried out under some kind of canopy. The ingress of moisture drops is unacceptable!

Step 6. We carry out the final firing already in finished oven(that is, in a shell), between the cheeks of which a thermal insulating material is laid. We install an empty muffle in the appropriate place. We activate the burner (to the minimum power), then gradually increase the flame to the maximum (in about half an hour). We warm up the stove for another 1.5 hours, after which we can proceed directly to its operation.

As you can see, if desired, as well as if you have certain knowledge, making a kiln for firing is not difficult. But follow the safety rules - both at work and when using the structure! That's all, good work and warm winters for you!

Previously, clay ovens were found in almost all peasant houses. They were made from available materials and they had big sizes. Modern designs very different from their predecessors. They are attractive and compact dimensions.

All furnaces according to construction technology are divided into:

• adobe;
• Komi-Permyak;
• round.

They differ not only in appearance, but also in terms of characteristics, construction technologies and scope of operation.

adobe

Saman refers to the ancient building material, consisting of: sand, clay, straw. The advantages of such construction include:

• minimum costs;
• aesthetic appearance;
• high performance;
• simple building technology.

She is a complete monolithic structure, which can be located in the country or in the house.

If you are building a stove on the street, make a canopy over it to protect the structure from various precipitations.

Miniature constructions of adobe can be made on a long hike. For its construction it is necessary to use plastic clay with a low moisture content.

The construction of a structure from adobe should be done in dry and sunny weather.

With good weather conditions and with all necessary materials and tools, you can build such a structure on your own in just one day.

So, for the construction of an adobe stove, you will need to prepare tools such as:

• beaters;
• large wooden mallets;
• tamper;
• grater;
• scraper.

The construction technology itself is quite simple:

1. A formwork is being built, and the prepared mortar is placed in it.
2. A firebox and chimneys are formed from the solution.
3. The oven is molded as if from plasticine until the first stage.
4. Next, an overlap of hogs is formed.
5. Clay is laid in a layer of 10 cm and rammed.
6. At this stage, the firebox and firebox doors are walled up.
7. Next, using a spatula, a firebox is cut out.

To prevent the walls of the product from deforming, a small formwork is made inside and spacers are inserted.

1. Next, cut out the ash pan, afterburner, chimney.
2. After that, we install the grate and cast-iron stove.
3. The finished product must be smoothed with a grater and leveled with a scraper.

The first time the stove can be heated without removing it from the formwork. When it is completely dry, carefully remove the formwork and carry out additional work: cutting through the doors and whitewashing.

Komi-Perm

The Komi-Permyak clay oven was built in houses. It was built either on a foundation or simply on the floor:

1. First, the formwork is laid from the boards, then it is filled with clay.
2. All this is compacted, crushed stone is poured on top and again a layer of clay.
3. When it comes to forming the couch, you need to make a fairly thick layer of clay.
4. Next, we mount the chimneys, cut out niches in the side walls.
5. After heating, it is necessary to carefully remove the formwork and cut out the mouth in the form of a semicircular arch. That's all, the product is ready for use.

It is best to let the structure dry at natural temperature. But you can also heat it, and if cracks appear after heating, they must be puttied and can be whitewashed for an aesthetic appearance.

Round

The round clay oven is different small size. It is built both indoors and just on the street. It is convenient because bread, pizza, cakes are baked in it, various dishes are prepared.

You can also build a furnace from other materials: brick, metal. But it is clay structures that are considered the most practical, functional and affordable.

Step-by-step technology for building a clay oven

Modern furnaces can be built in two ways:

1. With formwork.
2. From pre-prepared blocks.

Construction using formwork is considered more complex process. This option is used for structures designed for baking bread or pizza. But the use of pre-prepared blocks is used to recreate a real Russian stove.

Before construction earthenware it is recommended to draw a sketch of it on paper. Next, you need to make clay blocks in advance. For this long time the solution is kneaded until it becomes homogeneous and plastic. Previously, clay was kneaded with feet, now there are various modern fixtures. To prepare the solution, you will need to take sand, water and clay.

Clay is better to use oily with a red tint.

There are no exact proportions for the preparation of the solution. This is done by eye. The main thing is that the solution is homogeneous and very thick, the consistency of a dense dough. Blocks can be formed using special forms. Dry them thoroughly before laying.

Clay bricks are not fired. Their firing occurs gradually during operation.

From the prepared blocks, a furnace is built without mortar for the binder. Formwork is made to obtain the firebox of the desired shape. Then you can not take it out, it will simply burn at the first heating.

After completing all the work, we proceed to the decoration. Previously, such structures were whitewashed, but now they can be given absolutely any design with the help of modern finishing materials. Although many prefer to leave monolithic structures in their original form.

Summing up, it can be noted that clay ovens are always in demand. Depending on your needs, you can make a small-sized structure for cooking, or make a large Russian oven - a stove bench that is functional, or simply build a garden mini oven for a comfortable and pleasant outdoor recreation.

adobe oven

Practice has shown that a good Russian stove can be made not only from brick, but also from clay. In this furnace, brick is used only for laying the hearth and laying pipes.

At good performance and care adobe stove can serve for a long time. For laying the oven, it is necessary to prepare right amount clay solution, carefully choosing the composition as described earlier. For a medium-sized oven, approximately 3.5 m 3 of solution is required. Mix the solution very thoroughly. The density of the solution should be such that if you make a brick out of it standard size, put it in the middle on a hand or a stick, it should not bend. With a slight deflection, the quality of the brick is satisfactory (Fig. 73, a). Clay and sand for preparing the mortar are poured onto a wooden shield in such a layer that, after tamping, a layer 150 mm thick is obtained. On a well-packed mortar, if you stand on it, footprints are almost invisible. A layer of 150 mm is convenient in that pieces or bars are cut from it right size for the oven. More thin layer it is inefficient, and the thicker one is difficult to compact during operation. The clay prepared in this way is cut into strips 200 m wide, which are then cut into rectangular bars (bricks) 300–400 mm long. The ends of the bars are cut to a mustache or half their thickness, that is, in the same way as wood is paired into half a tree (Fig. 73, b).

Rice. 73. Adaptation and procedure for the device of the Russian clay oven:

a- checking the stiffness of the solution; b - the shape of the bars and their placement in the oven; in- a wooden roller and a scraper with a steel blade; G- walls under the arch; d- frame for mouth; e- laying the vault (numbers show the order of laying the pieces, arrows show the direction of blows)

The bars are laid with overlapping seams with additional thorough compaction with a roll or rammer, which is applied strong blows top and sides (Fig. 73, in). The stronger the seal, the higher the strength of the furnace and vice versa.

After compacting and leveling the masonry, excess clay is cut off with a scraper, and the walls are checked for verticality and horizontality.

You need to know that the wall thickness of the furnace can be from 190 to 250 mm. The thicker the walls, the longer the oven keeps heat.

When laying the next row of bars, the underlying bars are not moistened with water. If they are moistened, then at the points of contact of the bars, the solution layer will be weaker. During a break in work, the upper sides of the laid bars are covered with rags soaked in water and squeezed out of its excess.

As you know, a sandy backfill is needed under the hearth, which is poured onto a previously arranged flooring or vault. The flooring can also be made of wood, but at a distance of 450–500 mm from the level of the hearth. First on wood flooring pour 250–300 mm of earth, level it well and compact it, and on the ground - sand or a mixture of sand and gravel with a layer of 150–180 mm, but more is possible. It is very good to pre-lay two layers of asbestos or felt soaked in clay mortar on a wooden flooring. This keeps the wood from getting too hot.

Prior to the construction of the vault, it is necessary to arrange two walls in the shape of a crucible or chamber and install them in place (Fig. 73, G). In the future, a hole-mouth is cut out in the front wall. The shape of the mouth can be semicircular or in the form of a gentle arch of the same dimensions as the previously considered damper.

It is desirable to insert a metal frame at the mouth, made of strip or angle steel, but it is possible from round reinforcing steel with a thickness of 7 mm or more. In this case, the wire is bent in the shape of a damper. Having made three to five bars, they are put together, tied with wire. At any frame, the paws are bent. They are necessary to secure them in the laid mass (Fig. 73, d). The frame will serve as a support for the wall and a stop for the damper. It should be fixed.

It is best to arrange the front wall with the mouth like this. Make a wooden formwork according to the shape of the mouth, put a frame on it, lay the cut clay strips, carefully compacting them, cut off the sides, having previously drawn the shape of the wall, and cut off the excess according to this shape.

The vault is best arranged along the formwork, which must be very strong. The formwork is covered with paper on top in one or two layers; this will make it easier to remove it from the clay. Before laying on the formwork, clay bars are given the necessary shape, cutting off the excess with a knife. Laying is carried out as shown in Figure 73, e. Having cut off excess clay, they clean everything. The stacked bars compact well.

The vault can be made without formwork, but it is more difficult, besides, you have to clean the vault inside with a scraper, which is very inconvenient and time consuming.

In general, everything internal surfaces Furnaces should be made particularly smooth in order to improve draft and ensure freer, smoke-free exit of flue gases.

Having completed the forehead and covered it with clay bars in two or three layers, they are carefully compacted together. Above are brickwork.

The finished oven should be dried for at least five to seven days with open appliances. Then they are heated with dry fuel, first laying small portions, and then gradually increasing them. After the combustion of fuel, dampers, valves or views are left open. When heated, the clay releases a lot of steam, which must go into the pipe. As the furnace cools down, usually after 6-8 hours, the firebox is repeated. Such drying is carried out for five to six days until the furnace is completely dry. After that, they take dry fuel (wood is chopped finely) and for the first time they really heat the stove. During this furnace, not only the furnace is finally dried out, but clay is also fired with inside crucible or cooking chamber. Hot coals should be evenly distributed throughout the hearth. A well-heated furnace is closed. A day later, the firebox is repeated. Proper drying and firing ensure the strength and solidity of the kiln.

It should be recalled that the underside can also be made of raw bricks, but, unfortunately, when water flows out of the dishes during boiling, it can erode the fragile clay.

Having completed the oven, they clean the outer or front sides and rub it with clay or lime-clay mortar. After the solution has dried, the oven is whitewashed two or three times with lime diluted in skimmed milk, obtaining a durable, non-staining paint.