How to make a rabbit hutch at home. How to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands - types of structures, preparation for work and step-by-step construction technology

How to build a rabbit cage yourself? This question usually arises among beginners who decide to start rabbit farming. Experienced farmers usually develop designs that are convenient for themselves, making it easier to care for animals.

Cells can have different structures and be made from a variety of materials. They are made completely simple or additionally equipped with “conveniences”, such as running water or heating. In the construction of the cage, much will depend on the planned number of rabbits, their breed and size, on the availability of retreat materials and on the place where it will be installed, on the desire and ability to equip it with various devices, as well as on the ability to work with carpentry and plumbing tools.

Rabbit cages can be located in utility rooms, such as, for example, a barn, or right on the street. Therefore, they can be divided into three types according to their location and the method of breeding rabbits:

• Year-round outdoor placement of cages, when animals are constantly outdoors.
• Keeping pets indoors all year round.
• A combined breeding option, that is, in winter the rabbits are kept indoors, and with the onset of warm weather they are transferred outside.

Experienced rabbit breeders believe that the most in the best possible way Breeding these animals involves keeping them outdoors all year round, as this promotes the development of immunity to various diseases and the formation of healthy, high-quality hair. In addition, when raising rabbits outdoors, the productivity of females significantly improves, which increases the number of rabbits in the litter and their endurance.

Street cages

Rabbit cages are most often installed outdoors if breeding is planned. large quantity animals – one hundred or more individuals.

Convenience of arranging rabbit hutches in street conditions is to have more space and ease of care for your “menagerie”, since each of the cells needs periodic cleaning.

To build outdoor cages, fairly durable materials are used, since the structure must be reliable and stable - these qualities will help protect rabbits from adverse weather conditions. natural factors, as well as from penetration into the cells of predatory animals - dogs, foxes, cats or rats.

It is advisable that the building be located under a canopy with a large front canopy so that any precipitation, as well as direct sunlight, do not bother the pets too much.

If the rabbits will be outside all year round, then it is necessary to take care of insulating one of the parts of the cage. These animals tolerate low winter temperatures well, but it would still be a good idea to create comfortable conditions for them and a special place where they can bask on especially cold days and nights.

Cages placed indoors

Cages placed in windproof areas can be made entirely of metal mesh attached to a wooden frame and have a wooden lattice floor. If breeding pets is carried out indoors, it is important to think carefully about the convenient disposal of their waste.

Combined rabbit breeding option

In another case, if funds and space allow, cages are built in two places - both on the street and in a barn. This method of farming is unlikely to be suitable for those farmers who raise a large number of pets, since installing winter and summer cages will require a fairly large area.

Cell design and size

Rabbit cages can be single-tiered or multi-tiered. In addition, their design may vary depending on the main purpose - for breeding, for raising young animals or for keeping adult pets.

Single-tier and multi-tier structures

Cells can be single-tiered or multi-tiered, but they are arranged in no more than three tiers.

• Single-tier cells

Single-tier buildings are raised above the ground by 700÷800 mm and covered with a roof made of slate or metal sheet. If this type of building will be located on the street, then it is better to choose a slate roof, since the metal heats up quickly, and rabbits do not tolerate extreme heat very well.

To collect and dispose of animal waste, a metal tray made in the form of a drain is often installed in a single-tier cage for the convenience of its regular cleaning.

• Multi-tiered cells

More often, multi-tiered cages are practiced, which can have two or three tiers, and on each of which a different number of sections are placed. Such structures are most often made of bars, boards and galvanized mesh, and are used for breeding rabbits both outdoors and indoors.

Such cage designs are called sheds - in them, tiers with sections are located one above the other, which helps to significantly save space.

A two-tier design is considered the best option, as it will allow for comfortable care and monitoring of pets.

It is recommended to raise the shad above the ground by 500÷600 mm when installed indoors, and by 700÷750 mm when installed outdoors. This cage is considered the best for keeping rabbits, so it is used most often.

When building multi-tiered cages, there must be a space of at least 150 mm high between each of the tiers. A sloping metal roof is installed over the cages. In the space between the tiers and under the lower tier, inclined tides are fixed. They are necessary so that rabbit waste does not fall into the lower cages and does not linger on the lower roof, but flows to the ground or into a common or separate drain for each tier located at the back of the structure. At each of these ebbs, sides are bent on the sides to prevent waste from falling beyond this plane.

Some owners prefer to use removable plastic trays, which are mounted on skids under the slatted floor and can be removed for cleaning and rinsing.

Another option is for the trays to be installed directly in the cages. In addition, sometimes cages are made with a solid floor. Both of the latter options are probably still not very convenient, since the bedding in the cages will have to be changed quite often - once every two to three days.

Cages for breeding

In cages intended for breeding, special chambers are installed on the sides, or space is provided for installing a mobile queen cell. In a design with a stationary compartment, the walls, removable floor and ceiling are made solid, since it must be well insulated and not blown through by drafts, otherwise the rabbits will die.

The floor in the rest of the cage, where the food section is located, is made of wooden blocks or metal mesh.

The mobile queen cell is a completely closed box with a round hole for entry. The box should also have an additional side door to allow it to be cleaned and dried.

A mobile queen cell is convenient because it can be rearranged, if necessary, into different cells, and it is also easier to clean and change bedding.

This chamber is insulated with dry, mold-free hay or shavings. It is not recommended to use small sawdust, as they can get into the respiratory tract of the rabbits, and they will die.

If breeding is carried out in winter, then a few days before it, it is recommended to place an electric heating pad in the queen cell to create comfortable conditions for the female rabbit.

In the cold season, it is often impossible to do without heating the uterine tract, so instead of a heating pad you can also use an ordinary light bulb, which is kept constantly on during this period. It is placed in a compartment located behind the wall of the uterine chamber. Having chosen this heating option, it is necessary to take care of fire safety, so the chamber where the lamp will be located must be sheathed with a thin metal sheet.

Another way to heat this part of the cage is a heating cable for the “warm floor” system, which is fixed to the bottom of the queen cell, and a removable floor panel is placed on top of it. When using this option, it is imperative to ensure that the cable located in the cage is solid, without splicing. This system, installed in accordance with all the rules, allows you to regulate the temperature in the uterine compartment depending on the temperature outside - it can be connected to a thermostatic regulator.

For cages located indoors in barns, it is best to make queen cells mobile so that they can be taken outside for thorough cleaning, ventilation and drying in the sun. If a built-in uterine chamber is planned, then the floor must be removable.

Each section of cells of this type usually has a length of 1000÷1200 mm, a depth of 550÷650 mm, a height on the front side of 550÷600 mm and 400÷450 mm on the rear wall. The built-in uterine chamber is made 350÷400 mm wide.

Cages for young animals

Cages for young animals should be designed to accommodate 8÷20 rabbits at a time, aged from three to five months. A group cage is made with an area of ​​approximately 0.25 - 0.3 m² per pet, with a wall height of at least 350 mm.

If the cages are made multi-tiered and installed on the street, then they must be raised above the ground by at least 700÷750 mm.

In cages for young animals, the warm nesting compartment should also be well insulated for the winter, in approximately the same way as for newborn rabbits. For insulation, hay or straw is used, laid 15÷20 mm thick. You should not choose artificial materials for insulation, as they have a bad effect on the development and growth of babies of all breeds of rabbits.

Cage for adult rabbits

For adult rabbits of medium-sized breeds, cages are made with sections 600÷700 mm deep, a front height of 600 mm and a length of 1000 mm - these are the minimum dimensions for the comfortable development of an adult animal. The same block design is used for these cells; each block contains two cells separated by a wall.

It is also necessary to provide for the union of these cells into one, for example, for the mating period - for this, the partition between them is made removable. It is recommended to make the floor in cages for adults from galvanized mesh.

It is very important to take into account that pets must move freely inside the cages, since their growth and development will depend on this.

Cage with aviary for walking

This cage design is well suited for keeping young animals or for rabbits of reproductive age. The cage consists of two compartments - this is an area completely enclosed by walls and a roof and mesh aviary. The two compartments are connected by a round or rectangular entrance cut into the rear wall of the cage with solid surfaces. Rabbits in such cages have the opportunity to move freely and safely, which is beneficial for their development and growth.

The dimensions of such structures may vary, but usually the depth of a closed cage is 600÷650 mm, and the depth of the enclosure is 800÷1000 mm. Most often, a regular single-tier block is built, consisting of two separate cages, and then, if there is space behind it, a mesh enclosure is attached to it.

Cages for giant rabbits

Large rabbits of the “giant” meat-skin breed require a special approach, since not standard cages are built for them, but those with more significant parameters. Individuals of this breed grow to sizes from 550 to 650 mm in length, and their weight ranges from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. These numbers must be used as a starting point when drawing up a construction design drawing.

For one adult “giant” rabbit, you will need a cage measuring at least 960 mm in length, 700 mm in depth and 600÷700 mm in height.

For young animals of this breed, in one litter of which there are on average eight rabbits, you will need a cage of 1.2 m², at least 400 mm high.

Since “giant” rabbits have quite a lot of weight, the floor of the cage should be reinforced - it is also covered with galvanized mesh, but made of thicker wire, for example, 2÷2.2 mm. In addition, to prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animal, when making the floor, you must first secure bars measuring 30×30 mm, laid at a distance of 35÷40 mm from each other, and then lay and secure a metal mesh on top of them.

Some farmers lay a solid floor in their cages, but in this case, the most the best option will install plastic or rubber trays in them. If you choose this option for arranging the cage, then you will have to clean it of waste daily or once every two days.

California rabbit cage

This breed of rabbits (a hybrid of the New Zealand breed, the Soviet chinchilla and the Russian ermine) is quite popular due to its ease of care and resistance to negative winter temperatures. In size, adult individuals of the Californian breed are smaller than “giants” and their length is 450÷500 mm, but their weight sometimes reaches up to 4.5÷5 kg. The cage for these rabbits should be approximately 0.4÷0.5 m² in size. The paws of pets of this breed are covered with coarse hair, so they will be quite comfortable in cages with mesh or slatted floors.

When California rabbits are raised exclusively for meat, they are often kept in a pit measuring 2000x2000 and 1000 mm deep. The walls of the pit are reinforced with slate, a plank or mesh floor is laid on the floors, a low fence is installed around the pit and a roof is built.

An earthen niche is made in one of the walls of the pit, which is not reinforced in any way. It is necessary to create conditions close to the natural habitat of these animals. Rabbits will happily dig holes in the ground, and with proper care they will reproduce well and raise young on their own.

Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages

To make caring for your pets easier, it is worth considering a convenient supply of food and water for them. There are many different designs, both feeders and drinkers. They can be purchased ready-made or even made yourself.

Drinking bowls

Rabbits need a lot of clean water and if you pour it into a bowl that is not fixed at a certain height, then various debris will fall into it, or, even worse, a rabbit, stepping on it with its paw, will simply knock it over and spill water.

It is very important to decide on the choice of material from which the drinkers will be made. For example, if you install products made of thin plastic, they will not last for a long time, as rabbits will chew them. In metal cans, water will quickly become dirty and cloudy. Therefore, experienced rabbit breeders have developed several simple designs that allow them to constantly provide for animals required quantity water.

Automatic drinkers

This type of drinker is often used both on large farms and in small households. The design of this drinking bowl consists of a bowl connected to a container filled with water. Moreover, the bowl is in the cage, and the container is located outside, so it is easy to replenish it with new supplies of fresh water.

The principle of operation of such devices is quite simple - as the water decreases from the bowl, a new portion of liquid will flow into it from the container. In this case, the float system is triggered - there is little water left in the bowl, so the valve installed in the container opens and the drinking bowl is replenished with water. It is quite difficult to make such a drinking bowl yourself, but it can be purchased ready-made.

Nipple drinkers

The nipple type of drinker is convenient and practical, since in this case the animals cannot spill the water - it remains in the tube until the rabbit begins to drink, performing sucking movements.

The disadvantage of this water delivery system is that at low temperatures the water in the container and in the tubes quickly freezes, so this drinker can only be used in the warm season.

Vacuum drinker

There are several ways to make a drinking bowl from a regular plastic bottle, and they should be considered, so the manufacturing process can be carried out independently.

The operating principle of this design is based on the laws of physics, and in order to make it, you need to act in the following way:

• A bowl having a flat bottom, sides approximately 50 mm high and elongated shape fixed to the cage at a height of 100 mm from the floor, so that half of it is inside the cage and the other remains outside.

• A regular plastic bottle of two or one and a half liters is filled with water. The bottle is then closed with a cap or even a piece of paper, which is pressed firmly to the neck. Next, the container is quickly turned upside down and placed in a bowl. The neck should not reach the bottom 2÷3 mm. The bottle is then secured to the cage using wire or clamps.
• The lid is carefully unscrewed (if paper was used, it is simply pulled out), and the bowl is filled with water by about ⅔. As your pets drink water, water will flow from the bottle into the bowl, filling it to its previous level.

Throttle drinker

This drinker works on the principle of a conventional hand washbasin, that is, when you press the throttle installed together with the valve in the bottle cap, water begins to flow down the throttle through the resulting hole.

There should not be a hole in the lid big size, but the throttle should move up and down easily in it. Can be used as a valve rubber gasket, well holding the throttle and closing the hole in the bottle cap in a calm state.

The bottle with this device is fixed vertically on the cage, at a height of 250÷300 mm from the floor.

Hanging drinker

This is a very simple version of a drinking bowl, made from a plastic bottle; it is suspended on wire holders at a height of 250÷300 mm from the floor. To make such a drinker, a cutout is made in the side of the bottle, 100÷120 mm wide and almost the entire length of the bottle, 50÷60 mm away from the lid and bottom.

The drinking bowl is secured with outside cells so that the hole cut in the bottle is turned inward. In the cage at this level, part of the mesh wall is also cut out so that the rabbits can easily reach the water. Such a drinking bowl will have to be replenished with water quite often, but it is extremely simple to manufacture.

Feeders

It is advisable to plan the feeders at the stage of drawing up the drawing of the entire structure. Feed supply devices can be of three types:

• Senniki are most often located between two adjacent cells and have a V-shape. They are made together with the structure of the cell itself - they, in fact, are its integral part. Fresh grass or dry hay is placed in these feeders, and the rabbits pull it out through the lattice walls.

• Feeder for filling feed. This product is necessary for rabbits to enrich their body with minerals and vitamins, which contributes to the rapid growth of animals. This food is especially important in winter time when there is no grass, fresh vegetables and fruits.

Feed troughs can be made from sheet metal, plastic pipe used for sewerage, or other materials. An important condition that must be met for efficient work This device is responsible for the correct and reliable fastening of the container to the cell wall. The principle of operation of such a device is that food independently enters a bowl located in the cage from a container fixed outside it, as it decreases.

• A device for vegetables, fruits, tops and other fresh shredded products can be made of any material. It is made spacious and easy to clean. The feeder must be kept clean, otherwise harmful insects may grow in and around it, which can cause various diseases in animals.

Making your own multi-tiered cage

Before purchasing materials, it is recommended to draw up an accurate drawing of a cage or multi-tiered complex. It is necessary to foresee the location of feeders and drinkers on the plan, especially in cases where they will be built into the overall structure.

In this case, a step-by-step description of the manufacture of a three-tier cage with a width of 1400 mm, a height of 1900 mm and a depth of 600 mm is presented.

For work you will need the following materials:

Name of materials or components	Size, mm	Quantity
Board	100×30	10 m
timber	50×30	27 m
Plywood 15 mm	Standard	1÷2 sheets
Metal grid	Wire 0.7 mm, mesh 25×25 mm	8 m²
Metal galvanized sheet	Thickness 0.6÷0.9 mm	3 m²
Self-tapping screws	50	300÷500 pcs.
Nails	60÷70	100 pieces.
Latch locks for queen cells	Standard	6 pcs.
Hinges for securing the hinged doors of the queen cell.		12 pcs.

The table below describes the cage installation process step by step:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	From the purchased boards it is necessary to make parts for mounting the frame: - 100×30×2250 mm – 4 pcs.; - 50×30×1340 mm – 12 pcs.; - 50×30×540 mm – 12 pcs.; - 25×30×540 mm – 72 pcs.
	Six identical frame frames measuring 1340x600 mm are assembled from prepared lumber.
	Making frames is easy. First, one is assembled with precise dimensions and squareness, and then it is used as a template for making the rest. To assemble each frame, you will need two beams measuring 50x30x540 mm and two beams measuring 50x30x1340 mm. Smaller bars are secured between two long ones using two self-tapping screws at each connection
	The result of installation should be six neat, even frames of the same size.
	The next step is to position the frames and fix them on boards measuring 100x30x2250 mm, laid at a distance of the width of the frame. The distance between the frames forming the frame and the floor of the cage of each tier should be 400 mm. The space left between tiers is 180 mm. The first tier should be raised 400 mm above the ground. The frames are secured with two self-tapping screws, screwed in along the diagonal intersection line at the joints of the frame frame and side boards.
	The next step is to fasten the frames along the top edge with two boards laid parallel to the bottom ones. It is important here to ensure that the frames are perfectly vertical. To check their verticality, a building level is used.
	Next, the blocks for installation of the grated floor are prepared. Their size should be 25x30x540 mm.
	The distance between the sheathing bars should be 15÷20 mm (lightwise). They are installed inside the frame frame, and through it, on the side, secured with self-tapping screws on both sides.
	The floor of the cells on all three tiers is lined in exactly the same way. If it is planned to make a queen cell on one of the tiers, where breeding occurs, and where the rabbits will be kept until a certain age, then in this place the floor of the cage should be solid and removable. The arrangement of the queen cell was described above.
	Will each of the tiers be divided into two separate cells? between which a hay box is mounted in the shape of the Latin letter V. Hay or grass for rabbits will be placed here. The sennik is formed from four bars, which are installed on both sides of the frame. The size of the hay is 150÷200 mm in the upper part, and 6÷8 mm in the lower part. Naturally, it is necessary to achieve a clear correspondence in the location of the inclined crossbars on both sides of the frame.
	To ensure that the doors have the correct rectangular shape, the hay can be made from boards, cutting off one of their sides at a certain angle and connecting them at the bottom from the inside of the cage. Thus, the outer edge of the hay barn will be smooth and will act as a wall to which the door will adjoin. In addition, the front parts of the hay barn can be cut from plywood 15 mm thick.
	The frame of the hay barn is sheathed inside along installed bars (or cutouts made at an angle in boards or plywood) with a mesh of 0.7 mm wire having cells of 25 × 25 mm.
	If you plan to make a queen cell in the cage, then it is separated from the cage by a plywood or plank wall with a small entrance. To make it easier to attach this wall, additional bars are mounted into the structure, to which the plywood jumper will be attached.
	The entrance to the wall can be round or semicircular, but it must be located at a height of 100–120 mm from the floor of the cage - this distance must be maintained so that the rabbits cannot get into the large cage until they can overcome this height on their own. The width of the entrance to the queen cell should be approximately 150 mm. After the hole is cut, it must be cleaned with sandpaper, since its edges must be absolutely smooth.
	The width of the queen cell is usually 300÷350 mm. The jumper wall is fixed to the bars, then the same wall is mounted on the outside of the cage, and then the roof panel is fixed. If in the main space of the cage the roof can be covered with a metal mesh, then in the queen cell it should be continuous. Lastly, a bottom made of plywood is placed in the queen cell compartment. However, it should not be secured to the lower bars with self-tapping screws, since after the rabbits grow up and are moved to other, more spacious cages, the bottom part is removed from the uterine chamber, washed, dried and put in place for the next birth.
	The final stage in the installation of the queen cell is the installation of a hinged external door on it across the entire width of the chamber. At the bottom, the door is secured to the beam with two metal hinges.
	A latch lock or latch is installed in the middle of the upper part of the door panel.
	Next, the cage door frame is made from 30x30 mm bars. It is made according to the size of the opening formed in the cell wall. The door frame bars are fastened together at the corners with two self-tapping screws.
	The illustration shows finished frame the door in front of it is covered with a metal mesh.
	The mesh is fixed to the frame using staples and a stapler - such fixation will be quite sufficient.
	A door with a mesh installed on the inside looks like this.
	Hinges on mesh doors can be mounted at the bottom (in which case the door will be hinged), or on one side of the opening (in which case it will be hinged). It all depends on ease of use in specific conditions.
	If the cages will be installed under a roof, for example, in a barn or other indoor utility room, then the walls and roof of the cages can also be lined with mesh. When installing the structure outdoors, the side and rear walls and roof must be covered with plywood or boards
	It is very important to make the correct tides under each tier of cages so that animal waste from the upper cages does not fall into the lower ones. Used to make castings a metal sheet, on which the edges are folded on the sides - these sides should have a height of 80÷100 mm. The ebbs are attached to the front lower part of the frame under the cage, and its other edge is laid on the rear wall of the lower cage and extends beyond it by 300÷350 mm. Thus, the ebb tides are tilted and they protrude back beyond the structure so that they do not interfere with the approach to the rabbitry from the front side.
	The result should be something like this cell. In terms of complexity, this design option can be called the simplest and most accessible even for beginners.

If you understand the principles of constructing cages for rabbits, then when drawing up a drawing, if desired, you can make your own adjustments. But it is still necessary to always keep in mind that any adult rabbit requires at least 0.5 m² of living space. It’s even better to adhere to the recommended section sizes, about 1000 mm in length, 600÷ 700 in depth, and from 400 to 600 mm in height.

And at the end of the article, there is a video in which the rabbit breeder shares the secrets of the design of improved cages:

Video: an interesting version of cages for rabbits

Those who decide to start breeding rabbits always have the question of making a comfortable cage for rodents. Housing for long-eared animals can be designed in different ways, and can be made either in a factory or with your own hands. Let's focus on the last option.

What materials can it be made from?

When planning the construction of rabbit hutches, the first thing to think about is the choice of suitable building materials. In principle, for the construction of a simple structure capable of protecting animals from adverse external factors, any available means will do.

In the construction of rabbit farms, wood and metal, galvanized profiles, plastic elements, bricks, clay and even industrial pallets. Despite the fact that almost any materials are suitable for use, their choice should be approached with full responsibility.

Wood

Even a novice rabbit breeder can handle making a wooden cage

Wood is used very widely in the construction of rabbit cages. Any structural elements can be made from it. It is from wooden beams that the frame of the future cage is usually made. Floors made of wooden planks are also popular among rabbit breeders.

The main advantages of the material are environmental friendliness and ease of processing.. Wooden elements can be easily given almost any shape. Don't lose sight of the beautiful thermal insulation properties wood: a wooden rabbitry will be warm in winter, and not too hot in summer.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth highlighting rapid destruction. Rabbits love to chew on everything around them, so the wooden elements of the interior of the cage are quickly destroyed by rodents. In addition, due to its porous structure, wood absorbs all odors and liquids, so it is not recommended to install a solid wooden floor in a cage.

Important! Insects and humidity also contribute to the rapid destruction of wood, therefore all wooden structural elements must be treated protective compounds. When choosing such a composition, make sure it is safe for animals.

Metal

Metal is much stronger than wood, but working with it requires a different level of skill

Metal compared to wood is more durable material for construction. Rabbits cannot chew through metal elements, they are easy to wash and are not afraid of insects. True, metal processing requires special skills from the master, as well as the ability to handle special tools.

The frame of the future cage is created from metal pipes. Metal is also used for the interior of wooden cages to prevent the natural material from being chewed through. But the roof and external walls It is not recommended to make cages from metal, since they can become very hot in the sun and freeze in the cold, which can pose a threat to the health of long-eared residents.

Galvanized profile

Galvanized profiles are used in combination with other materials. Unlike all-metal elements, strengthening or finishing the cage with a profile does not make the structure heavier, which is especially important for portable mobile rabbit cages.

Plastic elements

Plastic is lightweight and durable, but can release toxic substances in the heat

Plastic pipes can be an alternative to wooden beams and metal pipes. Durable and lightweight material allows you to create universal cages for use in any conditions.

When working with plastic, it is important to keep animal safety in mind. Internal structural elements that can get in the teeth of rabbits should not be made of plastic. The animal can injure its mouth or esophagus from shrapnel, as well as be poisoned by synthetic substances included in the material.

Important! When exposed to extreme heat (for example, in the heat), some types of plastic release toxic substances.

Bricks and clay

Bricks and clay are used to build rabbit hutches mainly in hot regions. The bases for the houses are laid with bricks, and the seams are coated with clay. Such a cage protects animals well from overheating, since the brick has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Net

The walls of rabbit cages are made solid, in the form of a lattice of slats, or they are made of mesh. The most convenient option is considered to be one with a grid, which should have cells of medium or small size and be strong enough.

Slate

The most practical material for making a roof for a rabbit hutch is slate. It will perfectly perform its protective function, without overheating in the sun and without being afraid of moisture.

Available materials

Rabbits are not the easiest animals to care for. For temporary housing or in conditions of critical savings, houses made from scrap materials are suitable. Inventive rabbit breeders adapt old barrels and containers for keeping rodents or collect multi-story structures from industrial pallets.

Each material has special properties that can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. You should be guided in your choice based on the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, individual conditions(climate, animal breed, etc.) and instructions for popular drawings, if you plan to use them.

Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

When choosing a cage option for rabbits, you can opt for a Zolotukhin or Mikhailov cage

There are many options for cages for rabbits, which differ in the number of tiers and sections, sizes and the presence of “conveniences” in the form of feeders and drinkers. On the Internet it is easy to find original drawings like Zolotukhin’s or Mikhailov’s designs.

If we talk about a typical cage for adult rabbits, then the optimal parameters will be the following dimensions:

• Length - 120–150 cm;
• Width - 60–80 cm;
• Height - 60 cm.

In order to rationally consume material and for ease of maintenance, it is recommended to build paired cages. In this case, the length will increase to 3 m.

There is no need to save space and make smaller cells. Animals must have enough free space, otherwise they become inactive, get sick and stop producing offspring.

In appearance, a typical cell resembles a block consisting of two sections, each of which can contain one adult individual. Most often in construction, wood and plywood are used for the frame and interior decoration, metal mesh with small cells for walls and partitions, and slate for roofing.

The floor of the cage is rarely made solid. Usually it is assembled from narrow slats or a mesh is used, as this simplifies the care of rodents. Rabbits produce a lot of waste, which falls through a mesh or slatted floor into a specially installed tray. If the floor covering is made continuous, then it will have to be cleaned too often.

To make a standard cell you will need the following materials:

• Wooden beams - 10 pieces, size 300x3x5 cm;
• Sheets of plywood - 2 pieces measuring 150x150x0.1 cm;
• Metal mesh - 3 m with a cell size no larger than 15 mm;
• Self-tapping screws - approximately 2 kg. You will need sizes 3 and 7 cm;
• Accessories - door hinges and latches;
• Perhaps wooden floor slats as an alternative to metal mesh.

Tools for work:

• Hand saw or grinder;
• Metal scissors or wire cutters;
• A screwdriver or hammer with nails (instead of screws);
• Tape measure, pencil, level.

Drawing

Drawing of a typical cage for rabbits

The drawing shows all the main structural elements and the dimensions in cm.

Manufacturing instructions

1. Construction should begin with the manufacture of the frame. It is assembled from wooden beams, which are sawn according to size and fastened with screws or nails. If possible, it is recommended to deepen the legs of the frame into the ground for greater stability of the structure.
2. The floor of the future cage is assembled from slats, between which gaps of 0.5–1 cm are left, or a metal mesh is placed. The closed nesting compartments on the sides of the cage can be made solid by laying down plywood.
3. The back and side walls cages, feeder.
4. Having made the doors using metal mesh and leftover wood, you should secure them with fittings.
5. At the end of the work, the cage is covered with a roof. Depending on the external conditions, they put a double roof (plywood and slate on top) or simply cover it with slate.

Video: Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

In addition to the covered part, a cage for decorative rabbits must have an open part.

The more spacious the home for a decorative rabbit, the better. Animal comfort is also provided by the construction of two-story structures or enclosures for walking. Decorative rabbits, as a rule, are kept indoors, so the requirements for thermal insulation and protection from external factors for the design of the home are much lower.

The flooring in a cage for decorative breeds of rabbits should be solid and soft. The surface of the paws of decorative rodents is prone to inflammation and deformation, since it does not have soft pads. Ideal option is a wooden floor covered with soft absorbent material (sawdust, special wood filler, soft straw, absorbent diapers, etc.).

Required tools and materials

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits involves using the following materials:

• Sheets of plywood, chipboard or wooden panels: it is better to take extra, focusing on the dimensions of the cage (90x60x45 cm);
• Metal sheet (tin can be used): 90x60 cm;
• Wooden slats;
• Metal mesh: 60x45 cm minimum;
• Self-tapping screws or nails;
• Door fittings.

Tools for work:

• Saw, hacksaw or jigsaw;
• Screwdriver or hammer;
• Nippers or metal scissors;

Drawing

Drawing of a multi-tiered cage for decorative rabbits

The dimensions in the drawing are indicated in centimeters. The size and design of the cage are optimal for keeping one adult individual in a heated room.

Manufacturing instructions

1. The construction of a cage for a decorative rabbit begins from the floor. A base measuring 90x60 cm is cut out of chipboard or a wooden panel.
2. On wooden base lay a metal shield of similar dimensions.
3. Then, boards for walls measuring 45x60 cm are prepared from wood or chipboard.
4. The frame is assembled using nails or self-tapping screws.
5. The door is made of wooden slats and metal mesh. Optimal size for the door - 30x30 cm.
6. The second tier is made of the same material as the walls and is installed inside the cage.
7. The staircase is made of slats, maintaining a width of at least 15 cm, and is installed close to the second tier, carefully securing it.

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits is quite simple. Even novice rabbit breeders who have no experience in construction and design can cope with the task. Paint cell surfaces paint and varnish materials It’s not worth it, as rodents can become poisoned by toxic substances by gnawing on structural elements.

Video: DIY two-story rabbit cage

Design Features

All rabbit cages are designed based on general principles, however, different types of shelters have their own characteristics. The nuances of the designs depend mainly on the breeds and individuals that the rabbit breeder plans to keep. Any productive farm simultaneously contains several groups of rabbits of different ages or even breeds.

Depending on whether the rabbit hutch will be located outdoors or indoors, you should choose suitable materials for construction and plan the dimensions of the structure. Cages can have from 1 to 3 tiers and an unlimited number of sections in length.

Rabbits of different ages (newborns, young animals, adults) require special housing conditions, and accordingly, the cages for them will be different. For example, pregnant females with newborn rabbits are kept in special uterine cages with nests.

The size of the cages should be planned in such a way that the animals have enough space and space. Obviously, cages for giant rabbits and dwarf rabbits will be very different from each other.

Depending on the size of the rabbits

The size of the cage is directly related to the dimensions of future residents

Optimal dimensions for a spacious cage containing a pair of adult rabbits of standard dimensions:

• Length - 120–170 cm;
• Width - 60–80 cm;
• Height - 50–60 cm.

Dwarf and decorative (up to 4–5 kg) rabbits will need more modest conditions:

• Length - 70–90 cm;
• Width - 35–55 cm;
• Height - 30–50 cm.

Giant rabbits will need much more space:

• Length - 85–100 cm;
• Width - 70–80 cm;
• Height - 60–80 cm.

Multi-tiered cells

Productive rabbit breeding involves the simultaneous keeping of a large number of rodents of different sexes and ages. Multi-tiered structures for keeping animals come to the aid of rabbit breeders. The cages are installed in both two and three tiers. Cages with several levels for rabbits are capital structures, which, however, are quite easy to build yourself.

Multi-tier cages based on Zolotukhin’s drawings are popular among rabbit farm owners. They have a number of advantages:

• Capacity;
• The ability to keep all representatives of rabbit families (females, young animals and males) in one place;
• It is convenient to care for animals;
• Zolotukhin cells are quite mobile - they can be moved from place to place.

Depending on the purpose

If there is a female rabbit with her young rabbits living in a cage, then they definitely need to have a secluded place.

Depending on their purpose, rabbit cages are divided into several types, each of which has its own design features:

• Standard cage for permanent keeping. It’s easy to find a drawing of such a cage on the Internet and build a home for rodents yourself. You should pay attention to the size of the cage, which should not be too small, and the safety of the materials;
• The breeding cage should be much more spacious, since several individuals will be in it at the same time;
• A special type of house for a female rabbit with her young or a pregnant female is called a queen cell. A secluded place and warmth are the two main components of the comfort of a pregnant rabbit and her newborn rabbits. As a rule, the queen cell has solid walls, a kind of house that imitates a cramped hole and devices for feeding a mother;
• The cage for young animals meets standard requirements, but is often equipped with an additional enclosure for walking. The opportunity to stretch a little has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of fragile cubs. The walking area is made of metal mesh and often provides the animals with access to fresh grass.

Depending on the climate and time of year

The optimal ambient temperature for rabbits to feel normal is 14–16 degrees. Maintaining a normal climate in the houses and protecting animals from precipitation and wind are the main requirements for the design of rabbit cages.

In large rabbit farms, keeping rodents in winter and summer involves different kinds cells. Winter ones are insulated with OSB or other fiber; sometimes they are heated with water.

In regions with temperate climate without sudden temperature changes, you can keep rabbits all year round in the same portable structures, which upon the onset of the first cold weather are transferred indoors. In the summer, such cells are again moved to the open air.

Choosing a location for installation

Rabbit hutches can be placed both indoors and outdoors. Outdoor maintenance is recommended only for regions with warm climates or in the case of the construction of well-insulated heated structures.

Rabbits do not tolerate it well high humidity, therefore, in the open air, a place should be chosen remote from bodies of water, preferably on a hill. Direct sunlight can also harm the health of rodents, so future rabbit breeders need to provide a special canopy or bush fence.

When placing cages with rabbits indoors, the open part of the structure should be turned towards the windows. This will increase daylight hours for animals and give them more heat. Daylight is generally very important for breeding, especially with regard to young individuals. Therefore, in the autumn-winter period it will be necessary to install additional lamps for additional illumination and heating of the cells.

Do not forget about general hygiene in premises where animals are kept. Rabbits produce a lot of waste that needs to be removed promptly. At least once a year it is recommended to thoroughly clean the entire structure and the room itself. This will prevent the proliferation of bacteria and viruses.

Arrangement

Feeder options for rabbit cages

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, housing for permanent keeping of rabbits provides a supply of fresh water and food. Now you can purchase ready-made drinkers and feeders in stores or through specialized websites. However, you can make simple feeders and drinkers yourself.

Some rabbit hutch plans include built-in structures, while some require feeding facilities to be installed separately.

The flooring for decorative domestic rabbits must be soft to prevent the animal from developing pododermatitis. Best options are considered sawdust or absorbent textile diapers.

How to crate train a rabbit

If the cage is comfortable, the rabbit will get used to it quickly enough

In their natural environment, rabbits live in burrows. When keeping animals productively, providing them with adequate privacy is very difficult. If a rabbit hutch is not constructed correctly, has sharp interior edges, is small in space, or is located in a noisy environment, the animals will experience stress that will adversely affect their health and reproductive performance.

Accustoming a rabbit to a new home is quite simple: you just need to provide it with the most comfortable living conditions.

Rabbit breeding is a popular and profitable business V rural areas. Animals are kept in special cages that you can make yourself. Using the information and tips from this article, anyone, even the most inexperienced rabbit breeder, will be able to design the right cage that is ideal for their rabbits.

Even novice rabbit breeders can build a cage with their own hands. The most common design options: one- and two-section, Zolotukhin cage, Mikhailov mini-farm and all-wire cage.

You can always buy a cage ready-made, but it’s better to make it yourself. Standard set materials needed to create a simple cell:

• thick plywood, boards or mesh for walls;
• wooden blocks for support or frame;
• mesh with small cells or slats for the bottom;
• boards, plywood or slate for the roof (when placed outdoors, the roof is sheathed roofing material).

Care must be taken to ensure that the materials are smooth and safe for rabbits. Dangerous, protruding parts should be cut off, pulled out, or the surface treated with sandpaper.

If you do not create a drawing of a cage for rabbits in advance, then some difficulties and inconsistencies may arise during production. It is better to take a ready-made drawing with dimensions. If you are making a cage for the first time, do not order expensive materials and give preference to a simpler design. In the future, based on your own experience, you will be able to independently develop a version of the cage that will be convenient for you to care for.

Design options for cages for rabbits, drawings with dimensions

Before starting the construction of a place of residence for rabbits, you need to create a drawing of a cage for rabbits with dimensions. We believe that you have already decided on the materials, now you just need to imagine what the compartments will be and decide on the dimensions.

For adult rabbits, a two-section cage is often made, 150 by 70 cm and an approximate height of 50-70 cm. For young animals, the height can be less - from 45 cm. We suggest making the back wall slightly lower than the front. For example, if the height of the front wall is 50 cm, then the back wall can be made 40-45 cm high. Below is a cage option for rabbits (dimensions and drawings).

To divide into 2 sections, a partition is made of wood with a 20 by 20 cm hole cut in it at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. It is better to make the top of the structure folding. This will greatly simplify care. A nesting compartment for rabbits is arranged along the side walls. It can be made plug-in or installed permanently. In the first case, the “mobile” nesting compartment will have dimensions of 35 x 35 x 30 cm. The roof of such a house can be straight or pitched, but should be inclined at a slight angle.

If the drawings of cages for rabbits include a nesting compartment, then a hole with a diameter of 20 cm should be cut between the feeding compartment and the nesting compartment. You also need to take care of a queen cell for rabbits, dimensions 35 x 35 x 20 cm. It is made with a solid floor, without a lid.

Rabbits will wear down holes if you don't line them with tin plates. The door to the feeding compartment is made of mesh, and the door to the nesting compartment is made of a solid one. If there is no aft compartment, then both doors are made of mesh.

Feeders and drinking bowls should be indicated on the diagram. They can be made removable, retractable, stationary. The latter are equipped with lids for ease of use. Feeders must be made in such a way that they cannot be contaminated by rabbits.

When placed outdoors, the cages are placed on legs made of beams 70-80 cm high. This measure allows you to comfortably clean the cages and prevents rodents and other animals from getting into the rabbits’ habitat. If you have the opportunity and space, you can make a cage with a walk. A latch is made in the back wall, and the paddock is made from mesh and placed tightly against the back wall.

A separate, fairly spacious cage should be provided for 3-4 rabbits. If a female rabbit is feeding small rabbits, then they are next to her. If some rabbits grow poorly and gain weight, then it is better to put them in a small cage (which should be built in advance and left free). There they can be fattened separately.

You can always make two- and even three-tier cages, which will allow you to accommodate more individuals. A fine mesh net is installed at the bottom of multi-tiered cages, and a plexiglass ramp is placed under the floor to drain waste. Under the lowest tier you need to install a retractable container in which waste will accumulate.

Cage insulation

In winter, you need to be especially careful about the comfort of the cage's inhabitants. If tongue and groove boards served as the manufacturing material, then it is imperative to fill the space between the walls with heat insulators. Suitable for this purpose are: natural materials like straw, leaves, moss. These insulation materials will have to be changed periodically, as they tend to absorb moisture. The insulation can also be standard thermal insulation materials used in the construction of houses: mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

If the winter weather is severe, then it is worth insulating the houses from the facade as well. Double floors and a roof are being made. To insulate the bottom of the house, you can build a pallet and install it with a slope in the center so that all waste products roll down there. Afterwards you can lay a thermal insulation layer. You should also make a two-layer floor in the queen cell, and it would be good to put an electric heating pad in its cavity. It is very important to make the wires inaccessible to rabbits.

Sheet iron or slate is used to cover the cells. The main thing is that the material copes well with waterproofing properties. The sheets should be laid overlapping, which will protect against leakage. Doors to protect against frost are equipped with wooden shutters.

Zolotukhin cell

The cages of rabbit breeder Zolotukhin are in great demand. More than 30 years ago, Nikolai Ivanovich designed cages in which rabbits grow well and hardly get sick.

Design

Rabbit housing does not have a tray or mesh floor. The bottom is made of solid boards or slate. Only near the back wall the floor is made of mesh to allow waste to flow out. To allow waste to flow away under the influence of gravity, the floor is slightly inclined. Each higher tier is longer than the previous one by the size of the mesh section. Below are presented for your reference rabbit cages, drawings with dimensions, photos.

There is also no separate nesting compartment in Zolotukhin’s designs. It is installed in the house if necessary, in cold weather. In the summer, the female rabbit builds a queen cell on her own from thrown up hay. The area with the cubs is delimited from the adult zone by a regular board with a sawn edge.

The feeder is built into the door. It is easy to tip over and clean, and does not take up internal space. You can add food without opening the cage door. In this case, the feeder is attached to nails and is made of wood covered with tin (so that the rabbits do not chew it off).

A distinctive feature of such cages is their simplicity in design, allowing pets to feel comfortable and reproduce. To save space, the building is made of two or three tiers, each of which is designed for one rabbit family or 3-6 adults.

Size

The cage should be approximately 2 meters wide and about 150 cm high. The depth of the sections is 70-80 cm. The approximate height of one floor is 50 cm. The door dimensions are 40 x40 cm. The floor must be tilted to remove waste 5- 7 cm. The width of the mesh strip on the floor at the back wall is 15-20 cm.

The dimensions of the removable queen box are as follows: front wall height: 16 cm, rear wall height – 26 cm, ceiling and floor – 40x40 cm. The opening for the female’s entrance is 15 x 15 cm. Instead of a separate queen cell for the winter, the author of the drawing suggests using a simpler option.

Cells according to the Mikhailov method

Academician Mikhailov created a technique based on minimal intervention in the life of eared animals. Young animals are kept in outdoor cages all year round with forced exhaust ventilation. For the first three months, young rabbits feed on their mother’s milk and are not poisoned by waste products, since manure automatically ends up in the lower compartment of the cage. People caring for the animals disturb the rabbits minimally.

As a result, in the first four months, the young animals gain 4-6 kg in weight, almost do not get sick, and the females reproduce not in accordance with the season, but all year round. The effectiveness of Mikhailov cells is recognized not only in Russia, but also in other countries. All over the world there are thousands of farms and mini-farms created using this method. What are the design differences?

Design Features

The cage usually has 2-4 compartments with a sealed collection for waste. The original version of a single-tier cage allows you to keep two adult individuals. New design options (“Quarta” and “Yurta”) are designed to accommodate pregnant females and teenage rabbits. The cages can be single- or double-tiered, but must have a sealed manure collector.

The principle of location in space is as follows. The back solid wall should face north to protect the rabbits from cold winds. The remaining walls are made of mesh. The farm is equipped with heated queen cells and drinking bowls, and a ventilation system is installed.

Let's take a closer look at the design for four adults. Conventionally, the following parts of the cage can be distinguished: upper, lower and stand. Top part consists of one or two tiers where eared animals live. At the bottom there is a cone for collecting waste and a compartment where manure is stored before harvesting. The stand part ensures reliable fixation of the structure on the ground. The floors in the cage are made of slats, the slats are laid parallel to each other diagonally.

Dimensions

The design is small in size, despite its high functionality. You can verify this by looking at the drawings with the dimensions of cages for rabbits using the Mikhailov method.

The total area of ​​one structure for two rabbits is up to 1.4 square meters. The height is 210 cm, the width is 240 cm, the width of individual sections is 60 cm, and the height is 70 cm. The queen cells are made 35 cm wide and 40 cm high. The dimensions of the manure collector are not important, the main thing is that the angle of inclination of the surface is 45 degrees.

The feeder is made 15 by 12 cm, and 30 cm high. An automatic drinker of arbitrary sizes is installed, corresponding to the height of the ceiling in the section. The total height of the legs of the stand is 140 cm. At a height of approximately 35-45 cm from the ground, fixing beams are attached around the perimeter of the frame to ensure greater stability.

Cages of the Klenovo-Chegodaevo design

These are double cages to which a mesh enclosure can be attached. Used for keeping young animals, adult rabbits, and non-pregnant females. Also suitable for young animals. Sometimes a male is placed in one of the halves and a female rabbit in the other. This way you can use the cage for mating.

Below is a cage of the following sizes. The length is 2 meters, the width of the cage itself is 65 cm, the height of the front wall is 75 cm. The height of the enclosure and rear wall is 60 cm. A hole is cut out of the cage into the enclosure, which is blocked by an insert partition. The bottom is made of fine mesh. During births and during possible frosts, solid sheets of plywood or wooden panels are placed on the floor of the enclosure.

Going out into a common mesh enclosure has a positive effect on the condition of rabbits. Active movement and the opportunity to “communicate” with relatives is what rabbits in cramped cages so often lack. In such conditions, chicks can be obtained even in winter.

Possible shortcomings during the first construction of the cage

There are popular mistakes that novice rabbit breeders make. Here are the most common:

• Some people believe that solid bottoms in cages are acceptable and will not be difficult to clean. But in reality, such a solution turns out to be extremely impractical. In winter, manure freezes to the bottom.
• Full mesh cage floors have their drawbacks. During the cold season, a rabbit can freeze its paws or genitals to the floor, which results in injuries for it. It is also dangerous for the rabbit's feet to get stuck in the grooves.
• A rabbitry installed outside must be protected from the sun in summer and from cold in winter.
• Don't make the cage door too small. This will make it difficult to regularly care for your rabbits.
• The female rabbit needs a separate section for giving birth. If you frequently take her out of her cage, she will become extremely stressed and may lose her reproductive ability.
• Rabbits should not be crowded, as this will have a bad effect on their condition.

Reading time ≈ 11 minutes

One of the important components of successfully keeping rabbits is providing the animals with suitable housing - cages. Cages are very convenient for breeding animals - they are the easiest place to feed, care for, house and, if necessary, treat the animals. At the same time, do not rush to buy industrial copies - you can make the cages yourself. We will look at how to build cages for rabbits with our own hands, as well as a series of photos of original building ideas.

Two-story cage for rabbits.

Features and Requirements

In fact, a cage is a box-like structure with opening front doors. Consists of a frame (sometimes with high legs), closed by walls, roof and floor. Inside there are compartments for food and rest, separated by a partition with a manhole. In the aft compartment there is a feeder and.

The size and design features of the cages depend on the age, breed, sex of the rabbit, and method of keeping. However, the design will be essentially identical for all groups of animals.

A common blueprint for rabbit cages.

When viewed from above, the cell diagram looks like this. The floor of the cage can either be completely mesh or have a mesh insert for removing feces. The floor in the nesting section must be solid, windproof and warm.

Schematic representation of a cell from above.

Another version of cages is also in demand - in which there are sleeping compartments on the sides, and in the center there is an area for feeding and activity. Such blocks are longer (up to 1.2 m), the standard height is about 35 cm.

There are several types of cellular contents:

• in room;
• on the street;
• combined - part of the year indoors, part - outdoors.

• use of high-quality, durable, rough building materials;
• reliability and stability of the structure;
• no more than 3 tiers of cages (installation of a slanting roof for effective drainage of feces);
• presence of a canopy.

Important! In winter, it is imperative to take care of insulating the cells. The boxes must be reliably protected from frost and wind, especially if you plan to breed animals.

Types of cells

As we have already indicated, the design of a house for animals is selected based on many factors. Therefore, below we will briefly consider the main distinctive features of blocks for animals with different needs:

House for rabbits and baby rabbits.

In addition to standard cages, there are also options with an aviary. If there is free space, you can install just such blocks. The enclosure is set up either under the structure or near the back wall. At least one of the walls of the enclosure should be mesh, but the option is also popular when the back wall is solid and the rest are made of mesh - as in the photo:

Two-story cage with an aviary.

If there are a large number of individuals, the shad will be a convenient design for keeping. It is a frame with 2-3 tiers of cells under a canopy. This whole structure looks like a mini-barn, but it greatly increases the efficiency and ease of care, allows for efficient use of space, and each animal can be provided with a separate block. You can also build a shed yourself.

Shed for rabbits.

Depending on the needs of the animal and your goals appearance The design can be absolutely anything. For example, for males, who are usually kept alone, you can build a very simple one-story block:

A simple one-story cage.

You can also make a frame and divide it into three compartments to house several individuals under one roof.

One-story block with three cells.

If you have enough space and the number of animals is small, you can make bunk (two-story) apartments for animals:

A two-story cage in the form of a house for one individual.

Another option for a two-tier block with a symmetrical, attractive facade:

Please note: In all similar designs with an aviary, there is a tray below the upper tier for effective removal bowel movements.

A two-story cage in the shape of a house.

If you wish, you can use the most original ideas and make a cage for rabbits with your own hands like a mansion, as in the photo below. To descend into the walking area, the block must be equipped with a staircase.

Blue cage-teremok.

And here’s another extraordinary design: in order to make good use of the space, there are beds with herbs on the roof of the block.

Cage with seedlings on the roof.

Another example of the design - on the sides of the block there is a feeder and a drinker. There is a nest in the center with holes on both sides. Thanks to the convenient door, babies can be accessed and perform care procedures without any problems.

House with compartments.

In the photo below we see a very original, practical and simple design similar to a wheelbarrow. The animal house is equipped with a pair of wheels on the back side and a pair of holders on the front. If necessary, the cage can be quickly and without assistance transported to another location. At the same time, the block is equipped with a nest and there is enough space for walking.

Transportable house on wheels.

To make the economic part of the yard look aesthetically pleasing and original, houses for livestock can be built in oriental style Pagoda.

Pagoda style house.

If you need a spacious enclosure for walking young animals, you can make a metal structure, completely mesh with a small shelter.

Spacious enclosure for rabbits.

Before you start building a home for livestock, read these simple recommendations. They will save you a lot of time during the creation process and allow you to avoid some mistakes:

• For year-round outdoor maintenance, it is better to choose thick boards for making walls. If the rabbits are kept partially outside, the sides of the cage can be made of plywood. If rabbits are outside only in the summer, then the walls can be made from durable mesh.
• When kept outdoors, the structure must be placed at a height of at least 0.7 m from the ground. This will protect the animals from cold, precipitation, as well as rats and other animals.
• The floor can be constructed from wooden slats or mesh. The size of the cells should be about 1-1.5 cm so that manure can pass through the holes freely, but the animals do not injure their paws.
• For the roof you can use boards or plywood. And for reliability, put any available roofing material on top. The only thing worth considering is that the metal sheets can get very hot in the sun and overheat the cage, so you will have to install a canopy on top.
• On the front wall you need to install two doors on hooks, one mesh, the other wooden.
• The wooden elements of the house will most likely be chewed, so it is recommended to cover the most vulnerable parts of the cage with thin sheets of tin, namely: the edges of wooden beams in the frame and doors, the manhole, and the feeding trough.
• In case of bad weather, removable glazing should be provided. The frame with glass can be attached different ways, for example, on hooks, and in sunny weather, remove.

Idea: the facade and external walls can be covered with decorative material or painted to give the house a decorative look.

Cage with supports.

Necessary materials

So, let's consider making a three-tier structure for group keeping of rabbits.

Necessary materials:

• timber with a section of 5*5 cm;
• aluminum plaster corner;
• screws;
• metal connecting corners;
• slats 24*12 mm (for the floor, you can use a metal mesh);
• galvanized sheets.

All fastenings in the cage will look like this.

Required tool:

• construction stapler;
• grinder (hacksaw);
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• electric drill.

For construction we will use the following drawing. One tier is shown here; 3 of these structures will be required.

Drawing of a cage (one tier).

Manufacturing process

Below is detailed description step-by-step instruction for making a house.

1. First you need to prepare the material for work - cut the timber into the required sections. So, you will need 16 pieces of 1.9 m each (12 pieces need to be sheathed with corners on one side), 24 pieces of 0.35 m each, 18 pieces of 0.8 m each, 12 pieces of 0.45 m each, 6 pieces of 0. 7 m. All prepared sections must be sheathed on one side with a corner using a stapler. These parts will be in direct contact with animals, which means the wood needs to be protected from being chewed.



Preparing the bars.

2. To make the first tier, we assemble the frame. To do this, we connect 2 segments of 1.9 m and 0.35 m with corners. The result is a rectangle.



We fold the frame.

3. Next, on a long section, measure 55 cm from the edges on each side, top and bottom. We make notes. Now we insert a beam 0.35 m long into the middle of the rectangle so that the marking line is closer to the center.



Insert jumpers.

4. This results in the following division:



Caracas in the making.

5. We make a hole for the feeder. To do this, find the middle along the long line and make a mark. On the opposite side, mark 0.7 m on the block from the right and left ends. We apply 45 cm long bars in a triangle for fitting, mark an angle and cut them with a hacksaw and attach them.



We make a hole for food.

6. Using the same principle, we construct the second part for the first tier. Using bars 80 cm long we connect both parts. The frame of the first tier is ready.



Finished tier frame.

7. For the floor, you can use wooden slats or metal mesh. If you use slats, you must first drill holes in them for screws, otherwise the thin slats may crack. Watch the distance between the slats - it should be about 1-1.2 cm so that the animals do not injure their limbs.



Fastening the slats to the floor.

8. The side parts of the structure, as well as the lintels, are made of plywood. Instead, you can use mesh or boards.
9. For the roof we use galvanized sheets. They should be slightly larger in size than the frame, so that it is possible to make small canopies over the compartments.
10. Using hinges on the front, you need to attach the doors made of mesh and plywood. At this point, one tier is completely finished.
11. At the end of the cage, the wood must be treated with fire. Firstly, it will remove burrs and make the wood smoother. Secondly, roasting will eliminate most microorganisms from upper layers tree. Then the structure must be treated with a disinfectant, for example Brovadez, according to the instructions.

In principle, you can stop there if you do not need to accommodate a large number of living creatures. But if there are a lot of rabbits and not enough space, you can continue and fold the three compartments into a single three-story structure.

To do this, you will need strong beams 2 m long (4 pieces). The compartments must be secured using metal corners. The first compartment must be at least 30 cm above the ground. The distance between compartments should be kept at least 10 cm to accommodate pallets.

Ready design.

Thus, we have presented a selection of photos from original ideas designs, and also looked at the step-by-step production of cages for rabbits with your own hands.

Video: step by step construction cages for rabbits.

Breeding rabbits in a country plot or country house requires a lot of knowledge about the lifestyle and habits of these animals. Much attention is paid to their diet and diet. At the same time, we should not forget about rabbit houses, since clean and comfortable housing is the key to the health and well-being of furry pets. There are many designs of cages for rabbits, made from a variety of materials with your own hands. The wooden structures brought to your attention can simplify the care of animals and will decorate the economic area.

Simple Design Rabbit Hutch

Due to the simplicity of the design, such a cage can be made with minimal experience in working with carpentry tools. To make it you will need wooden slats and bars, plywood, metal mesh, bitumen shingles and plexiglass. Despite the fact that this type of cage is not particularly complex, it looks beautiful and interesting, which all members of your family will appreciate.

Assembling the cage frame for rabbits

To facilitate the process of feeding animals, the cage is installed on an elevated surface, constructing an additional stand. The height is selected so that both adults and children can care for the animals. In order to have feed and hay at hand, and also not to look for additional space for storing food, the frame is equipped with a spacious shelf.

Cages for rabbits drawings

For cage support posts you will need wooden beam with a cross-section of at least 60×60 mm and a height of 850 mm.

When cutting wood, do not forget process the edges of the slats. This will avoid splinters and increase the aesthetics of the rabbit cage design.

The base frame and shelf support are attached to the main posts. To do this, four boards are screwed into the upper part of the frame with self-tapping screws and at a distance of 372 mm from the floor. It is important to correctly mark and monitor the geometry of the structure using a carpenter's square and a level. The result should be a smooth, stable structure without distortions or crooked corners.

To make a cage with an additional compartment, a neat figured cutout is made in the front board of the upper frame. The cut out part is attached to the old place using a piano loop. A narrow hinged part will provide access to the inside of the cage in the future.

On the inside of the upper and lower frames, they are mounted as spacers additional slats. They eliminate the instability of the structure and serve as support for the flooring, so they require especially careful adjustment.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions. Photo

In the corners of wooden boards or boards used as a shelf and base of the cage, a cutout is made for support legs. The shields are installed in their places, after which the work at this stage is considered completed.

Main compartment assembly

A rabbit cage should please the owner not only with its durability and reliability, but also with its attractive appearance. Assembling a cage for rabbits begins from the front part, and step-by-step instructions will help you understand in detail all the nuances of the work with your own hands.

Cages for rabbits drawings

At the first stage they collect door box. To do this, a rectangular frame is assembled from slats using furniture dowels and self-tapping screws. A groove is cut out for the vertical movement of the door. A sliding partition frame is made that is slightly larger than the height of the box. Dowels are installed from the outer surface, after which the door is installed in place by inserting the dowels into the prepared slots on the side jambs.

Compartments are installed from wooden slats on both sides of the opening. The rear part of the structure, as well as the side walls, are assembled.

How to make a rabbit cage. Photo

The eight slats from which the roof rafters will be made are cut at an acute angle. The rafters are assembled by fastening the pointed elements in pairs, after which they are finally fixed with self-tapping screws. After this, the brackets are removed and the rafters are attached to the base of the roof.

Triangular elements are cut out of a sheet of plywood to block access from the doorway to the roof. They are attached with self-tapping screws to the central rafters in accordance with the attached diagram.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions. Photo

The roof is sheathed plywood sheets , cutting them according to the drawing. The rear slope is made with a cutout mounted on a piano hinge. The hinged roof section makes it easier to access internal space cells. To connect the central part of the front roof slope with the side elements, small sections are cut out in its corners.

After assembling the base of the rabbit cage with your own hands is completed, the structure is treated with drying oil, dried, and then painted with one or two layers of oil paint. Despite the longer drying period, it will reliably protect the wood from moisture.

How to sheathe walls and roof

Cages for rabbits drawings

The inside of all the walls, as well as the door of the rabbit cage, are covered with your own hands using a screwdriver, self-tapping screws and a metal mesh with a mesh size of no more than 25x25 mm.

First, the ends of the cage are sewn up, and then the front wall is mounted above the doorway.

To make the design convenient to transport, folding handles are screwed onto the sides of the frame support frame.

Install on the front board of the upper support frame valve for fixing the narrow folding part.

The latch is also installed on the cage door.

Decorate The design can be made using the figure of a rabbit cut from plywood. It is painted and then glued or secured with self-tapping screws to the front wall of the roof.

Protect the piano hinge, which ensures the mobility of the folding part of the roof, can be done using universal adhesive tape. Glued on top of the metal, it will prevent rust and ensure reliable operation of the part.

Using a stapler and metal staples measuring 8 mm or more, attach them to the roof sheathing of the rabbit house. bitumen shingles.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions. Photo

Using special glue for soft roofing, a long, narrow piece of bitumen canvas is used to construct roof ridge.

cut out plexiglass according to the size of one of the side walls, after which a latch is mounted in its upper part. If necessary, this element will be able to protect animals from drafts and rain. Plexiglass is installed on the frame, securing it at the bottom furniture dowels, and at the top - by fixing the latch bolt in a pre-drilled hole.

Small ladders and an internal house are assembled for animals. After impregnation with drying oil, the parts are painted and placed inside the cage.

After the paint is completely dry, the cage is transferred to permanent place, prepare provisions and move the rabbits into their new home.

Despite the fact that rabbits are not particularly demanding animals, it is still better to rely on the opinion of experienced people in the manufacture and placement of the cage.

The main criterion for choosing a place to install a rabbitry is the absence drafts. In addition, in the summer it is better for animals to be in the shade, so you will have to build a shed or place cages in a barn.

We must not forget that when breeding rabbits, you will have to resettle the young animals, keep pregnant females and males separately, etc., so you won’t be able to get by with just one cage. It is better to always have free space at hand, and the cages themselves should have walking areas.

Listen to the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, and you won’t have to correct your own mistakes and miscalculations.

Floor The rabbitry is best made from mesh or slats laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from each other. When using the cage outdoors, they also install a lower, folding floor tier made of boards.

The roof The cages installed in the room are made of the same material as the walls. Outdoors, the rabbitry is covered with waterproof roofing material. It is better not to use tin for this.

On the street, houses for animals are located on supports height from 0.5 to 1 m. It is best if inside the cage there is also a house with a cutout in the form of a “hole”.

Cells are divided into several branches, providing a passage for animals from one part to another, as well as hinged lids for cleaning individual “rooms”.

The dimensions of the rabbitry in which it is planned to keep the males are sufficient for them to roam freely. We must remember that males who lead a sedentary lifestyle can become infertile.

For every 3-4 females make separate spacious cage.

Baby rabbits kept in the same room with a nursing rabbit. At the same time, they keep one cage free nearby, placing the mother with the smallest animals there for additional feeding.

The best material for a rabbitry is wood - boards, slats, plywood, laminated boards. They make the power frame and roof. Depending on the climate and installation location, cage walls are made of mesh, plywood, slats or boards. In progress Special attention removed by finishing the materials so that animals cannot be injured by splinters, sharp parts of the mesh or protruding edges of nails and screws.

Rabbit cage sizes

The dimensions of cages for breeding rabbits vary widely depending on the size of the animal, breed, purpose of the cage (for males, females with children, rabbits, etc.).

For nursing rabbits The dimensions of the cages must be at least 1.70 - 1.85 m in length, 1 m in width and 0.6 - 0.7 from the floor to the lid. The cages are placed at a distance of 0.7 - 0.8 m from the ground on trestles or supports. Animals weighing over 5 kg require rabbit hutches 1.3-1.5 m long and up to 0.7 m wide. In this case, the height of the rear wall should be 0.4-0.45 m, and the front wall should be 10-15 cm higher.

Young animals rabbits are placed in group rabbitries, where they contain from 8 to 20 individuals. From 3 to 5 cubs who are under 3 months old are placed in individual cages. For older animals, no more than 2 - 3 animals per cage are placed. In this case, there should be at least 0.5 square meters per individual. m of area, and the height of the rabbitry should be more than 35 cm. In group cages, there should be at least 0.2 square meters per rabbit. m, which must be taken into account when making a rabbitry and placing animals.

Cage sizes for rabbits. Photo

An adult requires housing minimum size 1×0.6 m with a height of 0.6 m, however, it is better to increase these dimensions by 20 - 30%.

The cages are placed in one or two tiers (the so-called shed). Depending on the size of the animals, the width of the shad is made no more than 2 m, and the depth - up to 1 m, placing the cages at a height of about half a meter.

For breeding, a double rabbitry is used with a queen cell - a removable feed compartment for keeping animals up to 1 month. The cage is divided into compartments by a wooden partition with a 17x20 cm hole.

The main thing is that animals in captivity feel comfortable, so it is recommended to follow all the advice on their placement and maintenance.

Cage designs for rabbits

A two-tier portable rabbitry makes it easier to care for and feed rabbits. It is enough from time to time to move the structure to a place with thick grass - and the animals are provided with food and a clean place to walk.

Photo of a cage for decorative rabbits

A wooden structure, on the roof of which there is a low box with a moisture-proof bottom, will allow you to grow seedlings or greens on the roof of the rabbitry. This solution is not only highly practical, but also looks impressive on the site.

Rabbit cage. Photo

A “two-room” house for animals with a common feeding area makes it easier to care for animals and allows you to increase the space intended for their walking.

Large cage for rabbits. Photo

Designs of cages for rabbits, in which animals have access to walk on the ground, are beneficial not only from the point of view of keeping the animals, but also from the economic side. If the cell volume is sufficiently large, its production does not require large material costs.

A triangular hut cage with an aviary for walking is easy to make. During the day, such a structure is placed in a place with thick grass, and at night the cage is removed to a stationary elevation.

The spacious rabbitry, designed for two places, has a presentable appearance thanks to its spacious design, flexible roof and light colors. Black metal elements complete the picture. door hinges and valves.

Big summer house for breeding rabbits allows you to keep up to ten individuals. The high door of the structure allows you to enter inside for feeding, cleaning and examining the animals.

A cage of increased depth, divided into two rooms, allows you to keep several individuals in each half. An enlarged courtyard provides comfort while walking and feeding animals. The contrasting coloring and copper fittings of the cage add elegance and presentability to it.

Cage for decorative rabbits. Photo

Rabbit cages installed at a height are often built in the same building as an enclosure. Common roof allows you to save material during the construction of a cage for rabbits and provides comfortable and spacious housing for animals.

Rectangular rabbitry with pitched roof very easy to manufacture and provides all the convenience for animals and their care. A simple cage for rabbits can be made from wooden blocks and slats, boards and wooden lining, and cover the roof with slate or soft roofing.

DIY Zolotukhin cells

Cages designed by a Russian rabbit breeder Zolotukhina have gained immense popularity due to their simplicity, low cost and ease of caring for animals.

The advantages of this type of cells include:

• sloped slate or plywood floor with mesh near the back wall;
• three-tier structure of six cells. Shifting the cells to the width of the grid in the floor makes cleaning easier;
• the possibility of arranging a queen cell in a regular cage;
• a specially designed feeder that does not require opening the door when dispensing food;
• low cost.

Improvements adopted by an experienced rabbit breeder-innovator bring the keeping of rabbits closer to the conditions in which they find themselves in their natural habitat.

Design Features

To make a cage for Zolotukhin rabbits, you can use wooden boards and slats, slate sheets, tin, polycarbonate panels, and metal mesh.

The frame of the structure and partitions are made of wood, and the floor and roof are made of flat slate. The doors and a small part of the floor at the back wall are covered with mesh. The wooden structural elements are sheathed with tin to prevent rabbits from chewing them.

Rabbit cage size:

• cage width - 2000 mm;
• height of the three-tier structure - 1500 mm;
• depth - from 700 to 800 mm;
• doors - 400×400 mm;
• floor mesh width - 150-200 mm;
• the difference in the level of the front and rear parts of the floor is from 50 to 70 mm.

Drawings of Zolotukhin cells. Photo

Each of the three levels consists of two cages, separated by two board partitions, between which hay is stored. The floor, also known as the roof for the lower tier, is made of slate. The back part of the floor up to a width of 200 mm is made of mesh. Each upper cell is extended by the same amount relative to the lower one so that feces are removed onto the floor or ground. The back wall is made of polycarbonate and installed in an inclined manner.

Exact dimensions for making cages are not needed; the diagram given by the rabbit breeder is sufficient. This structure is a structure with a queen cell, so for the usual keeping of rabbits, the wall with the opening will need to be replaced with a solid wooden panel.

The queen cell door is not made of mesh, since the nest requires shade and shelter from drafts. To prevent the young animals from falling out when cleaning or feeding, a board 10 centimeters wide is nailed to the front of the shelter.

The design with a fenced-off queen cell makes it easy to expand the space for growing rabbits. To do this, just remove the board partition.

In winter, Zolotukhin installs in a cage queen cell-burrow. It is a wooden box with an increased height of the back wall. This allows you to create the necessary expansion in the depths of the rabbit hole. The hole in the queen cell is cut out so that there is no threshold between the box and the floor of the cage.

Dimensions of the winter queen cell of Zolotukhin cage for rabbits:

• upper and lower parts - from 300×300 to 400×400 mm;
• front wall - 160 mm;
• rear wall - 260 mm;
• opening height - 150 mm.

The feeder is a long tray that takes up 2/3 of the length of the cage. Its front wall is twice as large as the back wall, and the bottom slopes into the cage at an angle of up to 35?. The feeder is mounted on a rod hinge, which allows you to install the tray in the door. This eliminates the need to open the cage when feeding and makes it easier to clean the feeder from leftover food.