How to properly install a bathtub in a bathroom. Self-installation and connection of a bathtub is a job for a skilled craftsman

Bathroom renovation is a costly undertaking not only from the point of view of construction and finishing materials, but also the costs of the services of masters. In this article we will tell you in detail how to install a bathtub, and whether it is possible to do it yourself, without the involvement of third-party specialists. Thanks to this article, you can save a significant amount of your renovation budget.

Installation of a bathtub occurs in several stages, some of them are general, while others are included depending on the material of manufacture of the equipment itself.

1. Preparing the room;
2. Bath preparation;
3. Assembly of the siphon group;
4. Bath installation;
5. Connection of drain fittings;
6. Decorative design.

If the bathtub is metal, then the second point is omitted. The installation procedure itself is not complicated, but care is required when working with small parts. The main difficulty lies in connecting the siphon group.

There are two options for performing this action

1. Make connections before installing the bathtub in its place. This is much easier, because access to the drain holes is not limited. And the process itself can be controlled visually. But during installation, you will need to be extremely careful not to damage the installed fittings. Considering that the bathtub is a large and heavy item, this is problematic.
2. Place the bathtub in its place and level it. Only then connect the siphon group. The complexity of the process is seen in the fact that the work must be done by touch. It is impossible to see from both sides of the bathtub at once. But in return, the installer is able to handle the tub more freely.

The second option seems more preferable. After all, anyone can brush their teeth with their eyes closed, without getting the toothbrush past their mouth. Therefore, we will focus on the second method.

For the work on installing the bathtub, installers charge 1500-2500 rubles. And the work there, with the base prepared, will not take more than half an hour. Therefore, we recommend installing the bathtub yourself.

Preparing the bathroom

Works should be divided into two categories. It’s one thing if a bathtub is installed in a newly renovated room, and a completely different matter if old equipment is replaced with new one.

In the first case, you don’t need to prepare anything. Complete renovation involves preparing the base. notice, that floor tiles, if the entire area of ​​the room is covered with it, it should be laid on glue applied in a continuous layer, and not at several points. Otherwise, a bathtub filled with water, and even with a person inside, can break the tiles.

But this flaw can be leveled out if two boards are placed under the legs, positioning them along the length of the bathtub. Wood material – larch. Upon contact with water, the resins contained in larch polymerize, and after a while the boards will be impossible to even saw with a hacksaw.

In the second case, it is necessary to conduct an audit flooring. Special attention pay attention to the places where the legs will be new bath. It is quite possible that the new supports will fall in a different place.

In addition, you should balance the level at which the bathtub will be connected to the wall. With a high probability, we can assume that the walls are not tiled all the way to the floor. And after the old bathtub, at the place where it adjoined the wall, a clearly noticeable line remained. It is unlikely that it will be possible to wipe it off. Microscopic particles penetrated into the pores of the glazed coating, forming an inseparable conglomerate. If this flaw cannot be eliminated, then it should be hidden. For this purpose, boards should be placed under the legs of the bathtub ( as described above).

Heated drying oil is applied to the boards in a thick layer. They can then be painted in a color so that they do not differ from the dominant background.

Let us separately remind you about optimal height baths. In the USSR, experts calculated that it is most convenient for the average person to raise his leg to step into the bathtub to a height of no more than 60 cm. This parameter was included in SNiP as a recommendation. But now there are many more models of bathtubs on the market, with different overall dimensions. Therefore, in this case, you should be guided by your own preferences.

At the same time, you need to know about one interesting feature. If the bathtub drain is positioned at least 3-5 cm higher than usual, the water will drain faster. This will no longer allow blockages and deposits to form in the drainage fittings. Even on the drain grate, hair will not remain.

If tiles were not laid under the bathroom, then it is recommended to slightly raise the floor level in this particular place. Even 1 cm of added height will be enough to prevent water from getting under the bathtub.

To do this you will need:

• Quick-drying self-leveling screed (20 kg):
• Deep penetration primer;
• Guide metal profile;

The floor surface is treated with a primer, and while it dries, a side is created using a metal profile. To do this, the profile is cut so that it fits exactly in length between the opposite walls. Tape is glued to the back, this will prevent it from being caught with a tie. Having laid the profile through side wall screw it to the floor in 3-4 places. Then spread the screed according to the instructions on the package and pour it into a fenced area. The thickness of the layer is selected individually. Considering that 1 m of 2 screeds with a thickness of 1 cm consumes ≈ 15 kg ready solution. And from 20 kg of dry mixture you will get ≈ 30 kg of solution, then the screed layer in the bathroom will be 1.2-1.5 cm.

The next day, the dried screed is coated with primer again.

Preparing the bath

Only an acrylic bathtub requires special preparation. It needs to be supported. There are three options:

1. Legs. Standard solution for short-sighted users. Widely advertised option, but has several vulnerable points. In particular, it is necessary to make blind holes in several places in the monolithic body. This increases the tension of the material. Self-tapping screws will be screwed into these holes, which after filling the bath hot water, also heat up. And their coefficient thermal expansion does not coincide with the same parameter for acrylic.
   And the load is expected to be significant. 130 liters of water + 70 kg person’s weight. This is 200 kg for two flimsy supports. A very questionable choice.
2. Frame. Great alternative. Lasting reliable frame made of profiled pipe, supported on 6-8 legs. The integrity of the bathtub body is not compromised. She seems to be in limbo. Please note that there are frames for all models of acrylic bathtubs.
3. Stand made of bricks or blocks. Cheap and capital option. But it is somewhat inferior to the frame, because there is no lateral support.
4. If the bathtub is old, then plan installation for the last stage. Only after the base is completely installed can this work begin.

When viewed objectively, there is no alternative to the frame. Depending on the shape of the bathtub, its price varies from 1800 to 2600 rubles. It is delivered in disassembled condition. The connection of all components is carried out at the installation site of the bath, according to the attached instructions. IMPORTANT: the legs of the frame are height adjustable. After assembly, tighten them an equal number of turns until the middle of the thread. This will make it possible to perform horizontal alignment more freely later.

Metal baths, both steel and cast iron, do not require special preparation. But they have one flaw that can be easily corrected. We mean the high thermal conductivity of the metal. Such baths heat up quickly and just as quickly release heat into the surrounding air. This drawback can be mitigated with the help of 3-4 cylinders of polyurethane foam. She's being processed all over outer surface metal bath. After polymerization of the foam, the cooling rate of water decreases by an order of magnitude. As a bonus, this treatment almost completely absorbs the noise of rising water. While this is not significant for a cast iron bathtub, it is important for a steel bathtub.

In addition, legs are screwed into steel bathtubs seats. TIP: between the bathtub body and the end of the threaded leg, we recommend laying rubber gasket. This will further reduce the noise when drawing water.

Siphon group assembly

Bathroom fittings are purchased separately. They are divided into two groups:

1. Prefabricated;
2. Whole.

In the first case, the siphon group is assembled on threaded connections from small plastic parts. All bends are rectangular.

In the second case, the siphon is represented by a curved pipe. All his curves are smooth, threaded connections No.

A one-piece siphon looks trivial, but it has huge advantages.

1. The more threaded connections and parts, the higher the likelihood of leaks;
2. Smooth curves do not impede the flow of water, draining occurs faster and the likelihood of deposits and blockages is extremely low;

Besides this, the siphon is not an object for demonstration, and no one will see it except you. Therefore, the objective choice is a siphon with a solid body.

Its assembly involves screwing the overflow system through the cuff.

Bath installation

The bathtub must be installed by two people. Regardless of the material, this is a large-sized piece of furniture and one simply cannot handle it alone.

To work you will need:

• Rule with level;
• Mallet;
• Adjustable wrench for adjusting legs.

The cast iron bathtub is installed in the designated place. If the base is properly prepared, it does not require adjustment.

The acrylic bathtub is installed inside the assembled frame and slightly pressed until it clicks. This click means that the bathtub has settled into place and sat on the frame. Since the frame is prefabricated, it is necessary to adjust the plumbing to the horizon level. For this it is better to use the diagonal method.

As a rule, the bathtubs are laid diagonally, and if necessary, unscrew the leg and lift the lowered side. Then the rule is placed on another diagonal, and again leveled, raising the lower edge. IMPORTANT: leveling is carried out only by lifting the low side. You can't lower the high one.
A steel bathtub is installed similarly to a cast iron one. And leveling to the horizon level is carried out like an acrylic analogue.

Connecting drain fittings

The assembled siphon group must be secured at three points:

1. Drainer;
2. Overflow;
3. Sewage pipe.

First, install the fittings in the drain hole. Fixation is carried out using a screw through the drain grate. The gasket is placed on the drain itself; it has a specific shape and provides sealing on both sides at once. TIP: Apply a little silicone sealant between the gasket and the bathtub body. Do not tighten the screw all the way.

Then, by adjusting the height of the corrugated pipe, the overflow is secured. Here the gasket is installed on the outside of the bathtub. It has a conical shape, and the “point” is directed “from the bath”. The screw is tightened all the way.

After this, press the screw on the drain hole.

TIP: the screw stops turning as soon as the plane of the drain grate begins to sag.

The last thing is inserted into the sewer, waste pipe. To facilitate this process, lubricate both the pipe and the entrance to the sewer with laundry soap.

Screen installation

Almost always, steel and acrylic bathtubs are equipped with screens. For cast iron, it must be purchased separately. But in any case, a ready-made screen is a more acceptable option than homemade design made of plastic.

To install it you will need an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver.

Screen panels are assembled into single design. The legs are screwed into the seats and pressed to the maximum.

The screen is installed under the front edge of the bathtub, strictly vertically, focusing on a plumb line. The legs are then unscrewed and the top of the screen is pressed against the edge of the tub. On some models of acrylic bathtubs, there is a special groove where the upper edge of the screen fits.

Complete fixation is accompanied by a characteristic click.



Important place in life modern man occupies a bathroom. In fact, this is the place, well after the bedroom of course, where a person begins and ends his day. A place where we put ourselves in order, a place where we wash our things and perform hygiene procedures, and most importantly, this room in which we relax, lying in warm water and thinking about the eternal!

And despite a large number of the functions assigned to this room, how microscopic it sometimes is. I would even say criminally microscopic, when two people find themselves in such a bathroom at the same time and are unlikely to be able to separate.

It's no secret that the bathroom (the bowl itself) takes up a lot of space and, accordingly, the amount of free space, ease of movement and ease of use of other plumbing fixtures will depend on how it is installed. Taking into account the fact that until recently in most housing stock very little space was allocated for this premises, when carrying out major correct installation This huge water container is of paramount importance.

The issue of organizing space

Now we will consider the issue of bathtub installation, connection to the sewer system using the example of a small Soviet-era bathroom.

Of course, despite the small size of the room, I want to put this ancient invention longer, so that the length allows you not only to sit down, but also to lie down in warm water and relieve the fatigue that has accumulated during the day. Therefore, before installation is carried out, you need to ask yourself another question: - Where in bathroom Is it generally the best place to place it? After all, the way this bathing accessory was installed during “Soviet” times is not a fact that this is the best option.

I will tell you my experience in this matter. The size of my bathroom is simply microscopic (length 2.5 m, width 1.35 m), but I wanted to put a bathroom in it, and, and, and. And you know, I did it! Initially, the 1.5 m long bathtub was located along long wall, and the toilet stood at the end, as in the photo below.

After thinking a little, I decided to place it along the short wall of the room, which is only 1.35 m long, in place of the toilet, and free up as much space as possible. As always, I wanted a little more, and I decided to put a 1.5 m long bathtub along this wall, i.e. without losing anything in the volume of water poured.

To do this, it was necessary to make a groove 8 cm deep on the walls at the height of the sides on one side and the other. Moreover, on the wall opposite front door(where the mixer is located) I made the groove longer, up to the level of the passage, in order to somehow insert this massive object into place.

He brought the bathtub, inserted it into the groove at one end and, as if on rails in the grooves, pushed it all the way to the wall adjacent to the long side of the four hundred liter tank. The work is certainly hard, but it’s better to spend a little effort and time so that later you can use all the plumbing accessories as conveniently as possible.

But this is so, a lyrical digression, how you can save existing space and not lose the quality of the surrounding plumbing. Still, I’ll move on to a description of how to install a bathtub - our main question.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a bathtub yourself

The technology for installing cast iron and steel bathing tanks will be approximately the same, except that cast iron bath It weighs a lot and is therefore harder to work with. Step by step this process will look like this:

Step 1. We screw the legs, which are in an inverted position, onto the bathtub.

On cast iron baths Due to its manufacture using casting, sometimes there are sagging (casting defects) at the places where the legs are installed. These sagging prevent a complete and good fit of the leg to the body, and in this case it is recommended to use an abrasive wheel mounted on grinding machine(grinder), remove excess metal. Under no circumstances should the sagging be knocked with a hammer (mechanically knocked down with a chisel). Cast iron is a very fragile material and as a result of an unsuccessful blow, you can irretrievably lose a new item.

Step 2. We bring the bathroom in and install it in place.

I performed this procedure before. This makes it possible to press our “artificial sea” as close as possible to the wall and adhere the tiles to the edge, as a result of which the seam between the bathtub and the wall is minimal, and sealing it is not difficult. In my case, when grouting the joints, I simply went through the grout and the seam between the bathtub and the wall.

Step 3. We install the bathtub to the desired height.

At this step, you need to pay attention to the height of your sewer system. The height of the legs with screwed-in adjusting bolts suggests the location of the drainage system at a height of no more than 50-100 mm from the floor level. The drain level should be 20-30 mm higher than the sewer level. If this condition is not met, it is necessary to place pads under the legs until the required height difference is formed.

Step 4. We adjust the horizontal position of the installation in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

To do this, apply a level in the longitudinal and transverse directions to the edge of the bathtub.

By screwing or unscrewing the adjusting bolts located on the legs, we achieve horizontal position. If the level in the longitudinal and transverse direction shows the horizon, then the bathtub is installed correctly. Due to the natural slope of the bottom, which is caused by technological feature casting of the product, a natural flow of water into the drain hole is obtained.

At this stage, after finishing the horizontal position, I additionally secured the achieved position by filling the grooves along which the installation was carried out in place.

Additionally, it is necessary to tighten the lower lock nut on the adjusting bolts of the legs.

Step 5. Installation of sewer drain.

The water seal for draining water from the bathtub is sold disassembled, as in the photo below.

So let's start with assembling it. And the first step is to assemble the individual nodes.

• We put gaskets on the hose connecting the drain and overflow;

Moreover, it is necessary to pay attention that the gasket is made on a cone and the thin side should be facing towards the ends of the tube.

• We put on drain hose plastic fastening nut and sealing gasket;

We also orient the gasket with its thin side towards the nearest end of the tube.

• We put the fastening nuts and sealing gaskets on the components of the drain body;

• We assemble the drain body by screwing the drain neck to one end and part of the body to the other;

The result is a system of tubes that forms a water seal. Water constantly stands in it and prevents penetration unpleasant odors sewer system into our premises.

Please note that when assembling the elements, the cone-shaped gasket of one part must fit into the inner diameter of the other mating part, and, pressing it with a plastic nut, seal the resulting connection.

• We connect the drain body with the drain pipeline.

We also insert the pipeline into the drain body, correctly filling the gasket, and tighten it with the connecting nut.

• We collect the overflow.

Having put on the rubber sealing ring, insert the body of the overflow system with inside baths. We apply a decorative metal plate on the front side and secure the entire structure by tightening the bolt.

• From the inside of the bathtub, insert a tube into the overflow body that connects the overflow and the drain body;

• We fix the drain body to the bathtub. First, insert a sealing gasket into the drain hole of the bathtub.

Installation of plumbing equipment requires not only relevant experience, but also high costs. Installing a bathtub in the bathroom yourself is no exception. Despite the apparent complexity, this type of work can be performed without the involvement of specialists.

Acrylic is the most popular material for making bathtubs. In addition to an acrylic bathtub, homeowners often install a plastic liner over a cast iron or steel bathtub. This allows without special effort and monetary costs to update the plumbing in the room.

Installation of an acrylic bathtub (brand Kaldewei, Triton and others) can be done in several ways:

Nuances for installing a corner acrylic bathtub

Corner baths – universal option, which is suitable for both large bathrooms and small bathrooms. They are symmetrical and asymmetrical, the sizes of the bends are standardized.

If you choose the right triangular bathtub, then in a small room you can fit not only a washbasin with a cabinet, but also a washing machine or bidet. But there are some nuances that you need to know about before installing a corner bathtub (Ravak - Ravak, Laguna and others):

• All corner baths classified according to the type of location into right-sided and left-sided. This is very important for the proper connection of sewerage and water supply outlets;
• Before starting installation work, the walls must be leveled. If you don’t do this, it will be extremely difficult to level the bathtub;
• The corner bathtub is installed on legs. Supports are fixed around the entire perimeter, which will later be used to fasten the frame guides;
• In the place where the bathtub is adjacent to the wall, it is imperative to install a flexible baseboard. This will help avoid leaks.

Installation of a corner acrylic bathtub Part 1

and part 2

Installing an acrylic bathtub on a frame

Frame diagram - the easiest option for installation acrylic bath. This method is ideal for built-in plumbing, will fit perfectly into any interior and provide ergonomics.

Step-by-step instruction how to install an acrylic bathtub on a frame:

1. First of all, the surface of the walls is leveled. It is important not only to plaster the surface, but also to cover the walls with a finish - primer and putty. Installation of tiles can be done immediately or after completion of installation work;
2. Similar actions are carried out with the floor. The floor in the bathroom should be perfectly flat, without wide seams or irregularities. This will make it much easier to install the frame level;
3. To install the bathtub you need to prepare building level(its length should not be less than the diagonal of the bathtub), a hammer with a rubber attachment (to secure the frame), a wrench and an adjustable wrench. You may also need various gaskets and pipes to connect the water supply sewer;
4. A flexible pipe is attached to the sewer outlet, the diameter of which must correspond to the outlet of the bathtub. A siphon is connected to it. The joints are being processed silicone sealant. After this, you need to wait at least 4 hours for the silicone to harden;

   

5. Next, the frame is mounted. The wall guide is installed first - it will be the main one, so it is important to align it strictly according to the level. From this guide extend the side ones, to which they are attached. vertical racks from the floor. They can be connected by welding or bolting (the first seems more reliable, but the second can be disassembled if something happens);

   

6. When all the guides are connected to each other, the level of the corners is measured. There is one strict rule: when installing bathtubs and uneven frames, the lowered corner is raised, and not the raised one is lowered. All corners are secured with metal corner strips to provide rigidity;

   

7. If all corners are at the same level, then a bathtub is installed in the frame. The overflow from the siphon is connected to the side hole, and the outlet from the sewer is connected to the central hole. The water outlet (water pipe) is located above the bathtub, so you can work with it after the installation work is completed.
8. To prevent bath water from spilling onto the floor, you need to close the gaps between the wall and the side rail using a curb. It is also called plinth;

   

9. The frame is closed using a screen. Additionally, it can be insulated so that the bath “keeps” the heat of the water longer. To cover the screen you can use tiles, panels or even fake diamond. It is best to work with durable, water-resistant materials.

   

After completing the installation work, the mixer is installed. To connect it, open a water outlet, connect a faucet to it, if necessary, also connect a sink or shower hose.

How to install an acrylic clawfoot bathtub

Most well-known bathtub manufacturers supplement their products with special fasteners and installation parts. Supports come complete with models manufactured by Jika, Roca, Riho and others.

How to properly install an acrylic bathtub with legs yourself:

Acrylic and glass bathtubs must be handled very carefully. Plastic is subject to deformation under impact loads. When the installation process is completed, proceed to install the mixer, washing machine and other consumers.

Video: full video bath installation instructions

Installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks

Let us immediately note that this method is quite rarely used for installing plastic bathtubs. For acrylic plumbing, not only ideal evenness is important, but also the complete absence of shock or other loads that contribute to deformation. Brick supports are quite difficult to install with your own hands so that they evenly distribute pressure over the entire plane of the bathtub.

Step-by-step instructions on how to install an acrylic bathtub on bricks:

After laying the bricks, you need to wait until the mortar hardens and only then install an acrylic bathtub on them. Certainly, appearance brick supports leaves much to be desired, so for their decoration the most different variants. These are tiles, decorative panels, a screen (as for a frame), etc.

Installation of a plastic bath

Install plastic bath making your own is no more difficult than using acrylic. Moreover, all the options described above are suitable:

• On the frame;
• On the legs;
• On bricks or other available supports.

During installation plastic bath you need to be especially careful and careful. Any incorrect movement or miscalculation in the places where the supports are installed can cause cracks to form.

Rules for installing a plastic bathtub Standard:

• It is important to distribute the load evenly. This means that the supports, legs or frame must be positioned symmetrically across the entire plane of the bathtub. This will avoid deformation;
• To strengthen the frame and legs, special corners are often used. Corner – hard metal part, ensuring the strength of the connection between the support and the surface of the bath. Of course, you can do without it, but then during operation the structure may begin to loosen;
• The pipes are connected before the bath is installed. In other words, first the supports or frame are installed, then the siphon and other outlets are attached (the shower stall is connected, etc.), and then the bathtub is installed;
• The last step is to install the hood, mirrors and curtains. For the latter, you will need to additionally secure the cornice to the walls or ceiling.

Installation of a cast iron bath

A cast iron bathtub is considered the most durable and reliable, but it is absolutely not suitable for installation in a small bathroom (where there is also a toilet in the bathroom). It is most advisable to install it in a private house, because... average weight This design reaches up to 500 kg.

Step-by-step instructions on how to install a cast iron bathtub:

Installation of a steel bath

Install metal steel bath much lighter than cast iron. It is not that heavy and, depending on the size, is perfect for installation in a small bathroom. As with the installation of a cast-iron structure, the old bathroom is first dismantled, then the walls and flooring are cleaned.

Next, the bathtub is placed on legs or a frame is built for it. When preparatory work completed, the connection of the outlets to the sewerage and water supply is ensured. After this, the bathtub is installed in its place and connected to central system water supply

Installing a bathtub in a tiled bathroom

All the methods described above imply that the tiles will be laid after the bathrooms are installed. But what if you need to install an iron bathtub or shower cabin in a tiled room?

Installing a clawfoot bathtub

Installation of a cast iron, glass or steel bathtub on legs is carried out according to a scheme similar to the installation of an acrylic structure. Of course, depending on the size or shape, the distance between the supports may vary, but in general the technology remains the same.

To learn more about the process, we suggest watching a video of installing a clawfoot bathtub:

Installing a corner bath

Installation of corner structures is the most difficult to implement independently. Let's look at how to install a Cersanit corner bathtub on legs with your own hands:

It is difficult to imagine a comfortable home without a bath.

There was a time when bathtubs were even made from wood, and then from marble, copper, cast iron, silver and gold.

A steel bathtub is considered the most durable and has its advantages:

• light weight (easy to transport and install);
• warms up quickly because it has a metal base;
• cheaper than cast iron or acrylic;
• The enamel coating is durable.

The most serious disadvantages are:

• cannot retain heat for a long time;
• not stable enough;
• When filled with water it creates a lot of noise.

Disadvantages can be easily eliminated if you use polyurethane foam for this. Before installing the bath, it is enough to turn it upside down, moisten it with water and foam - it looks like a thermos.

After the foam has dried, cut off the excess with a knife. To steel bath has become more stable, the legs can be supplemented with a brick pillow (or used instead of legs).

Preparing the premises

It is better for the bath to be installed on metal supports with adjustable tips and self-adhesive pads. This method is more reliable and safe when installing a bathtub.

In the corners of the bath, you can use timber supports, attaching them to the wall. This technique will strengthen the bathtub, it will become more stable in case of load on the corners.

Before installing the bathtub, first clean the site of intended installation:

• plumbing fixtures are removed;
• the siphon is disconnected from the sewer (the hole is closed with a plastic lid);
• cleaned up old bath(if its legs were cemented, then they are removed from the cement layer);
• the walls are aligned at right angles.

Installation steps

Bathtub installation includes several stages:

• the bathtub is turned upside down and supports are attached to it;
• when installing a bathtub, all operations must be performed carefully so as not to damage the enamel;
• when the bathtub is in place, it must be leveled by adjusting the legs;
• joints are sealed polyurethane foam;
• additional supports are installed (beam the right size attached to the wall);
• installed using fasteners plastic panel, covering the bath.

Possible methods

You can install a steel bathtub yourself using two methods:

• installation on legs;
• installation using brickwork.

Installing a steel clawfoot bathtub It should be remembered that over time the supports may weaken and the service life of the bath will be shortened. In this case, hooks are used (they are usually used when installing water heaters) and a brick cushion is placed under the bottom of the bathtub.

The bathtub is placed on legs and leveled. The outline of the bathtub is marked on the walls and the bathtub is removed.

In the marked places, holes are drilled into which the hooks are screwed (pointed to the side or down).

The bathtub is returned to its place, leveled again and the hooks are tightened - the bathtub is pressed against the walls.

When using a brick pillow A series of bricks are placed under the bottom of the bathtub (they can be fastened together with polyurethane foam, and to prevent the foam from “lifting” the bathtub upward, it is better to fill it with water).

When installing a bathtub using brickwork, you need skills in working with such masonry. Columns are laid out of brick on which the bathtub will rest. It is also necessary to build a brick pillow under the bottom of the bath.

The main difficulty that people who install a steel bathtub themselves may encounter: the cushion and posts must be at a certain height from the floor. To do this, the columns, if they are low, can be plastered with mortar.

Required tools and materials

To install a steel bathtub yourself, you will need the following tools:

• the rule (a rigid bar, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bathtub) is required to level the bathtub;
• fork wrench (to tighten release parts);
• rubber hammer (for shrinking the legs when assembling the bathtub);
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• spanners;
• building level;
• polyurethane foam;
• sealant;
• siphon;
• fastening elements.

Step-by-step instruction

Once the site for installing the steel bathtub has been prepared, you need to complete the following steps:

How to avoid mistakes during installation?

There are rules that you need to know about when installing a steel bathtub with your own hands:

• by level is set only top edge, because the design provides for an inclination towards the drain;
• do not use corrugation when connecting the siphon to the sewer;
• do not overtighten the screws attaching the legs to the bathtub (tighten them only by hand, otherwise the enamel may chip);
• do not use rubber pads under the legs or bottom of the bathtub (the bathtub may spring back on them and a crack will form between the wall and the bathtub);
• a steel bath requires grounding;
• Usually the bathtub needs to be raised higher than the factory adjustment screws allow. You cannot use stands made of rubber or wood for these purposes (the former will spring, the latter will dry out);
• leave access to the bathtub piping (to clean the siphon).

Watch the video on how to install a bathtub yourself and what you need to consider:

August 26, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and renovation ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is, it seems to me, quite a realistic task. Of course, if finances allow, then here too you can turn to professionals, but if you have a smart assistant, a pair of level hands and a head that has absorbed the wisdom of your ancestors (set out, of course, in this article), you can cope quite quickly.

Below I will tell you how to install a bathtub in a room and how to prepare the room for installing it plumbing fixture.

Step 1. Preparation

Room

You should start thinking about how to install a bathtub at the stage of finishing the bathroom itself. Here we will have to perform several operations involving “wet” processes, so it will take a lot of time.

So, what to do as part of the preparatory finishing:

1. The floor under the bathroom must be perfectly flat and durable. At the same time, the requirements for surface quality depend on the design of the product: if a bathtub with legs can be adjusted vertically, horizontally and flatly using adjusting screws, then a product without legs simply must be fixed on a flat plane.

1. The floor covering must be treated waterproofing composition, and then fill in the leveling screed. It is best to use reinforced concrete, since the load on the surface when filling the bath with water will be significant.
2. After polymerization of the screed, it is advisable to trim it. For this I use grinder, and then I process concrete surface moisture-proof impregnation: the price of such treatment will be small (we only need to cover a few square meters), but an additional barrier to the liquid will clearly not be superfluous.

1. As an alternative to pouring screed, you can install leg supports. To do this, we take two logs with a width of at least 60 - 80 mm from larch or other moisture-resistant wood, impregnate them with an antiseptic and fasten them to the floor with anchors. The lags are laid in such a way that the legs of the bathroom fall exactly in their middle. Due to uniform load distribution wooden substrates will protect concrete base from destruction.
2. The wall that will be hidden under the bathroom should be treated with a moisture-proofing agent with an antiseptic component.

1. It is advisable to tiled the section of the wall above the bathtub after installing the plumbing fixture. This will allow us to more effectively disguise the joint between the side and the wall: it will be enough to cover it with the edge of the tile.
2. If the installation is carried out in an already finished room, then it is very important that the installation height of the bathroom is selected so as to overlap the lower edge of the tiled cladding by at least 1.5 - 2 cm. In this case, we will not have to mask the exposed section of the bare wall.
3. The gap between the wall and the edge of the bowl will be closed by a ceramic or plastic panel - molding.

At the same stage, we need to prepare communications. First of all, this concerns the drain hole: outlet sewer pipe will need to be installed in such a way that we can easily connect a siphon to it. In this case, we will ensure fast, effective drainage of water and insure ourselves against the formation of blockages.

Tools and materials

Correct installation construction is impossible without the use of appropriate tools. We will need:

• roulette;
• level;
• the rule is a long rail necessary to control the position of the bowl along the plane;
• wrench for adjusting the screws on the legs and for tightening union nuts release;
• a small hammer with a rubber nozzle;
• spray foam gun.

In addition, for installation we will need:

• self-expanding polyurethane foam in cylinders (5-6 pieces);
• silicone moisture-resistant sealant;
• liquid acrylic

In principle, you can limit yourself to this set, but sometimes other tools and materials are required to complete the installation.

Step 2. Installation

Cast iron and steel products

Bathtubs made of cast iron and steel with an enamel coating are most often mounted on legs. At the same time, in order to avoid damage to both the product itself and the finishing, I would recommend first bringing the bathroom into the room, doing all the work, and only then putting it in place.

The optimal algorithm, it seems to me, would be like this:

1. We remove everything from the bathroom that will interfere with the installation work. Here every centimeter of free space counts, since we have to “squeeze in” big item into the space between the walls with minimal gaps at the edges.
2. We lay two thick boards on the floor, bring the bathtub in and place it on its side. The drain hole should be directed towards the far wall of the room.

1. We fix the legs to the fasteners located on the free side of the bathtub. At the same time, we clamp the nuts tightly, but without fanaticism - they are often equipped with polymer spacers, which can be destroyed by overdoing the load on the key.
2. We install the second pair of legs on the mounts, tilting the bath towards ourselves. It is quite difficult to cope with such a task alone, so having an assistant will be very useful.

An iron, or rather steel, bathtub usually has a small wall thickness. On the one hand, this simplifies its installation (who has ever held cast iron product, he will appreciate it), but on the other hand, in a bathtub made of thin steel, the water cools down faster. And when a stream falls from a faucet, the sound spreads throughout the entire apartment.

To compensate for these shortcomings, many craftsmen (I am among them) make a “fur coat” of polyurethane foam on the bathtub:

1. We install the bathtub on supported boards with the bottom up.
2. We wipe the back surface dry and degrease it (you don’t need to try too hard, but going over it with a rag with a solvent at least once won’t hurt).

1. Take the mounting gun and apply it to the bathtub polyurethane foam. To prevent the foam from “pearling” in all directions, we give the assistant a spray bottle: 20-30 seconds after application, the foam cap will need to be lightly moistened with water.
2. When the entire surface has been treated, leave the bath for about half an hour for polymerization. After this, the product can be turned over without fear that the insulating foam will stick to your hands.

When all this work is completed, turn the bathtub over and place it in the right place, moving the side close to the wall. We control the position of the product, and if the design of the legs allows for this, then we adjust their height, setting the bowl perfectly level.

Before final fixation, you can also secure the outlets of the siphon or overflow hole to the bathtub. On the other hand, this can be done after installation - the main thing is that we can get to the place where these parts are attached and fix them with the required tightness.

Acrylic bathtubs

The rules for installing acrylic bathtubs are somewhat different. Products made from acrylic are lightweight, which makes them easier to transport and perform all manipulations, but at the same time, acrylic is quite fragile and requires the use of a support. Metal structure is located under the bathtub and helps distribute the load, therefore its dimensions should correspond as much as possible to the dimensions of the bowl.

I do the job this way:

1. I cover the bathroom floor with polyethylene or cardboard.
2. I lay an acrylic bathtub on the floor, bottom up.

Preliminary work can be carried out in a more spacious room, but you should make sure that the bathtub with all installed parts will fit through a fairly narrow door.

1. According to the manufacturer's recommendations (here you should definitely have instructions for specific model bathtubs) I drill holes for fastening the frame. When drilling, I monitor the depth of the tool so as not to damage the acrylic part of the bathtub and not get a through hole.
2. I'm assembling a frame from metal profile, after which I install it on the bathtub and secure it with the screws included in the kit.
3. I attach the legs to the frame.

1. I turn the bathtub over, place it on the floor and use a wrench to adjust the screw parts of the legs, setting the product strictly level.
2. Additionally, you can fix the product on the wall. To do this, I move the bathtub to the load-bearing surface, mark where the lower edge of the side will be located, and use anchors to install the mounting strips along the mark. At final installation the lower protrusion of the side will rest on these strips, partially relieving the load from the frame.

Here it is important to make a supporting structure of sufficient rigidity: it should provide uniform support to the bathtub body and prevent it from deforming when filled with water.

Installation on bricks

Sometimes the question arises of how to properly install an acrylic bathtub if the kit does not include a frame made of steel profile. In such a situation, the structure is mounted on a brick support:

1. We measure the product by measuring the space between the attachment points for the legs.
2. Using these dimensions, we place marks on the base, poured with concrete and leveled with a screed.

1. From ceramic bricks We lay out a “podium”, the dimensions of which correspond to the dimensions of the base of the bathtub. The design of the podium can be different: most often they simply lay two support posts, but under large bath A more reliable design may be needed.
2. The height of the brick base depends on the height at which the bath itself is installed. I usually focus on two numbers: in order to install a standard siphon, you need at least 145 mm between the bottom of the structure and the floor, and for ease of use, it is desirable that the upper edge of the side be above 600 mm from the floor level. Most models allow you to easily withstand these restrictions, but in difficult cases I prefer to just install smaller siphons.

1. I attach the legs to the bathtub and install it above the brick podium in such a way that there is a gap of 8 - 12 mm between the bottom and the bricks. I fill the cavities with polyurethane foam.
2. To avoid the structure tipping over when installing a bathtub on bricks, installing wall mounting strips is highly desirable.

Step 3. Connection and finishing

Siphon under the bath

After the bathtub bowl is securely fixed to the base, we need to connect all communications and install additional parts. We proceed according to this scenario:

1. We attach the siphon pipe to the lower drain hole. For reliable sealing, we install elastic gaskets at the top and bottom, which are then tightened with a fastening screw.
2. We attach the siphon body to the pipe, the pipe of which is connected to the inlet of the sewer pipe. Check the tightness of the connections.

To perform these operations, it is better to use not corrugated pipes - it increases the hydraulic resistance when draining - but rigid pipes.

1. We attach the neck of the overflow pipe to the hole in the upper part of the bath. Here the requirements for tightness are somewhat lower, but still, high-quality gaskets should not be neglected.
2. We connect the corrugation of the overflow device to the pipe on the siphon body.

1. We check the tightness of all components by filling the bathroom with water and monitoring the appearance of leaks (it is advisable to wait at least an hour). If drops of water protrude somewhere, then the assembly must either be sealed by tightening the fastening screw, or disassembled and installed another gasket (of better quality or thicker).

Sealing joints and decorating

1. We coat the joint between the wall and the side of the bathtub with plumbing silicone and carefully smooth it, forming a slight slope towards the bowl to drain the drips.
2. Instead of liquid silicone you can use silicone tape on a self-adhesive basis.
3. It also makes sense to install a plastic or ceramic molding on the side - however, in this case we will have to fill the gap between the base of the molding and the wall with high-quality glue.

1. We install a screen on the front surface of the bath that will cover the legs and drain pipes. The screen can also be made from moisture-resistant plasterboard followed by tiling, but I prefer sliding plastic structures: yes, they don’t look so attractive, but through open door you can get much more comfortable access to the space under the bathroom than through the inspection hatch.

After completing this work, you can safely use the bathroom. With due skill installation work won’t take much time, so you can swim to your heart’s content on the same day!

Conclusion

Bathtub installation can be carried out according to different schemes: here everything depends on the design of the product, its dimensions, and our wishes. In any case, it is quite possible to cope with the task, and, from my point of view, only the presence of an assistant and good theoretical preparation are mandatory.

You can figure it out with the assistant yourself, but regarding the second point, I advise you to watch the educational video in this article, and ask any questions you have in the comments below.

August 26, 2016

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