Preparation of heating radiators for installation. Correct installation of a heating radiator with different connection schemes

Independent replacement or even installation from scratch of heating radiators is not so much a complicated process as painstaking. What a plumber will do in a couple of hours, an amateur can take several days. However, do-it-yourself work will stimulate new achievements, save a lot of money and may even give you pleasure, especially if you prepare for the process in advance and foresee all the subtleties.

When is the best time to install batteries?

Installation of heating batteries, if it is, of course, not emergency, should take place in the off-season. Centralized heating is turned off in the spring, within a few days - a couple of weeks, the public utilities drain the water from the system and will feed it only in the fall. In general, the time for installing radiators is from April to October.

In a house with its own heating or an apartment in which there is always water in the system, battery installation work should begin with emptying the heating system. In parallel, you can think about what batteries you need to buy.

It is important! If you have to install new batteries in place of the old ones, then you need to choose those that will be identical in size to the previous ones. And for the parts that will be needed during installation, it is also important which heating system in the house is one-pipe or two-pipe.

How to choose batteries?

There are four metals from which heating radiators are made:

1. Pure cast iron.
2. High quality steel.
3. Aluminum.
4. Combination of steel (copper) and aluminum.

To say that some battery will be perfect is wrong.

Cast iron batteries

This is the heaviest metal with a fairly high heat transfer. Cast iron warms up longer than other metals, but also retains heat longer. most often set. One section weighs 10 kilograms (in Soviet samples - 12). The cost of one section is 500 - 600 rubles. However, a designer model can also have a price in dollar terms, indicated by three or even four digits.

The minimum thermal power of one cast-iron section is 150 W. Working pressure at the level of 15 Atm. To heat a room with an area of ​​15 m2, with a standard ceiling height and one double-glazed window, you need to buy about 10 cast iron sections. Information on how to more correctly calculate the number of battery sections will be in the subsection below.

The indisputable advantage of cast iron, as a metal for a battery, is that it can withstand coolant temperatures up to 150 ° C and is unpretentious to the composition of the water that will be in the battery.

The disadvantages of cast iron batteries are that they are very heavy and will have to be painted periodically.

Detailed review - read on our website.

aluminum batteries

Manufacturers claim that aluminum radiators are the most common.

• The main advantage of aluminum is its excellent ability to conduct heat.
• The second advantage is that it is from aluminum that the most unusual designs of heating batteries are made.
• And the last. Relatively inexpensive price.

Aluminum radiators have the highest heat output. The power of one section is 192 W, the working pressure is 16 atm. This means that the aluminum battery heats up very quickly.

However, there are also disadvantages. Aluminum battery:

1. Sensitive to pressure drops from the system. Experts say that with a sharp increase in pressure, an aluminum radiator can burst.
2. Needs only purified, softened water. The increased acidity of the liquid leads to faster internal corrosion of the metal.

In general, aluminum radiators are best installed where the quality of the supply water is monitored.

Steel Batteries

Steel radiators do not work in the form of sections, these are most often square or rectangular panels. The working pressure here is low - no higher than 8.7 atm. Power from some manufacturers is declared within 20 watts. Steel radiators are best used not for central heating.

Advantages of steel batteries:

1. With small sizes, they have a high heat transfer. This means that a small battery will heat up a large room very quickly.
2. For high-quality heating of the room in the system there should not be a very high temperature of the coolant.

These two advantages are balanced by disadvantages.

Attention! Steel radiators rust quickly. They should not be installed in rooms with high humidity. To prevent extensive corrosion, in a system where there are steel radiators, there must be shut-off valves for draining water in the off-season.

Bimetal radiators

The connection of metals can be as follows:

1. Steel and aluminium.
2. Copper and aluminium.

The steel or copper core (this is the internal part of the battery) heats up quickly and gives off heat to aluminum (the battery case is made of it). The combination of two metals significantly improves the thermal performance of the radiator. The power of the bimetallic radiator is 185 watts. If the inside is made of copper, then the rated power should be 200 watts.

Advantages:

• Chemical resistance to coolant.
• Increased fortress.
• Lightness of weight.
• High heat dissipation.

Disadvantages:

• High price.

Having decided on the price and quality for which they are ready to pay, it is worthwhile to calculate the required number of radiators.

Calculation of the number of sections for high-quality heating

A comfortable temperature for human life is 18 °C (unless, of course, you are lucky enough to live in Ukraine, where it is reduced to 14 °C due to the lack of gas). This temperature regime can be maintained as follows: for 1 m2 of the area that is heated, there should be 100 watts of heating radiator power.

The required number of battery sections for a comfortable temperature is calculated using the following formula:

S*100/P where

S = room area

P = power of one heating section.

The area of ​​the room is 15 m2, the power of one section of the cast-iron battery is 150 watts. Means,

15 * 100 / 150 = 10

In total, 10 sections of a cast-iron battery are needed to heat one room.

Table: an example of the number of radiator sections depending on the area of ​​​​the room

It is necessary to apply certain coefficients that take into account:

1. Ceiling height.
2. The presence of double-glazed windows.
3. Number of storeys (upper and lower floors have the highest ratio).
4. The number of windows in the room.
5. Has insulation been done?
6. Where is the room. Does it matter if it's angled?

So, for example, the coefficient (K1), which depends on the quality of the windows:

- K1 = 0.85. This is triple glazing.

- K1 \u003d 1. Such an indicator with a double-glazed window.

- K1 = 1.27. Regular windows with double glazing and possibly wooden frames.

The coefficient K2 depends on the walls.

K2 = 0.85. New walls with insulation

K2 = 1. Brick walls and insulation.

K2 = 1.27. Panel house with walls without insulation.

Table of the required power of the heat supply radiator

Payment. To get the number of sections, divide the data from the table by the power of one section of the selected radiator (KW).

This is an incomplete list of coefficients. But the ratio of digital indicators and, for example, the height of the ceiling or the quality of heating is the same as in the examples above. Each of the coefficients is multiplied by the original number of radiator sections. In the end, it turns out that battery that will really heat the space.

Installing a heating radiator

After the literature has been read, advice from experienced people has been received, the size of the radiators and the number of sections in them have been determined, the order has been placed and the car with the batteries is already on the way, it's time to prepare something without which they cannot be installed.

Preparatory stage

In practice, the batteries are always located under the windows. If access to this part of the room is difficult, you need to free up space as much as possible. Move the cabinets, remove the TV, remove the curtains.

You need to know! If you have to remove old batteries, then in any case, at least a little, water will flow out of them. It will not be clean, as from a spring, and the likelihood that water will stain the floor with rust is very high. Therefore, it is better to remove carpets and rugs before replacing batteries. And cover the laminate and parquet with a thick film.

When installing the battery you will need:

1. Bypass (if the heating system is single-pipe).
2. Adapters.
3. Couplings.
4. Nipples.
5. corners.
6. Mayevsky cranes.

Mayevsky crane - for venting air from radiators, opens with a special key or screwdriver

Sealant, winding, sealing tape, adjustable wrenches will not interfere with work. The remaining parts must be purchased based on what wiring is installed in the room.

Types of heating wiring

In total, there are 5 main types of wiring:

Options for connecting radiators

Now you need to choose the right distance from the wall and window sill for each battery.

Distances to the wall and window sill

In addition to the fact that all nuts and valves must be tightly tightened (without overdoing it), it is also important to fulfill the following conditions:

• From the top of the battery to the window sill there should be at least 5, and preferably 10-15 centimeters.
• From the bottom of the battery to the floor, a distance of at least 10-12 centimeters must be observed.
• From the radiator to the wall should be at least 5 centimeters.

Compliance with these rules will allow hot air to circulate better and go up unhindered.

Installing a radiator is far from an easy task, since any error made during the installation process can cause serious consequences. But if desired, the installation or repair of the heating system can be done with your own hands. For success, you need: the study of theory, the availability of tools, careful adherence to recommendations.

First you need to decide on the choice of the radiator model that is suitable for installation in a particular case. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the technical parameters of the proposed types of radiators and compare them with your needs and capabilities.

Important rules for installing heating radiators:

• type of material;
• wear resistance;
• resistance to corrosion;
• the diameter of the pipe through which water circulates;
• price.

After the radiator model is selected, it is necessary to determine the location where the heating radiators will be installed. This event should be carried out, adhering to the general rules for installing batteries "the best option is the space under the window."

At the same time, the length of the heating device should be within 50-75% "according to SNiP" of the width of the window under which it is mounted. Compliance with this rule will guarantee that the window above the battery will not “sweat”, and condensation will not appear on the walls.

In addition, the installation of heating radiators provides for the location of the device in areas with maximum air circulation, for example: under a window or near doors.

How to properly install heating devices:

• we install brackets on the wall under the window, having previously determined the location of the fasteners “the battery must be installed strictly in the middle of the window block”;
• the bottom panel of the radiator should be at least 10-14 cm above the floor. This is the optimal distance for cleaning and eliminating the possibility of cold air to collect;
• the bottom panel of the battery should lag behind the wall by 3-5 cm. Otherwise, the heat distribution will not be correct and the heat exchange of the internal energy of the device will be disturbed;
• if you fix a heat-reflecting screen containing a foil layer on the wall surface, then it is allowed to reduce the gap between the radiator and the wall within 2.5 cm. Due to this, warm air will be repelled from the wall, and this measure will increase the heat transfer power, allowing you to save heat in the room by 10 -15%.
• from the upper heating grate to the window sill should be 5-10 cm (according to SNiP). This arrangement preserves normal convection and supports heat dissipation.

When it comes to installing heating radiators with your own hands in a private house, the most suitable options will be: aluminum radiators or bimetallic batteries.

Aluminum radiators:

• have a modern design;
• have a high thermal power;
• easy to install;
• have the ability to work at a pressure of 10 to 25 atm, at a maximum temperature of up to +110 degrees;
• the power of one section of the device is about 200 watts.

Bimetal radiators have the same advantages as aluminum, but in addition:

• have increased impact resistance;
• operated at a pressure of 35 atm;
• their maximum temperature is about +120 degrees.

Heating system installation technology

Before the installation of heating radiators begins to gain momentum, it is necessary to prepare special tools, and these are: an impact drill and a screwdriver with victorious drills, a building level and a tape measure, pliers and a wrench, a pencil and a ruler.

• a strapping scheme is being developed, which it is desirable to entrust to a specialist. He also draws up a list of materials needed to install a radiator with his own hands;
• before the installation of heating radiators is started, it is necessary to carry out work to prepare the wall. To do this, it is leveled with plaster and puttied;
• the marking of the place of fastenings is carried out, holes are punched and dowels are installed;
• the installation of components on the battery is carried out, namely, they are: equipped with an “automatic or manual” air vent, which is screwed into a specially made adapter and installed in a free upper manifold;
• free outlets are closed with radiator plugs or plugs;
• two adjustable shut-off valves are installed at the inlet and outlet. In the event that it becomes necessary to remove the radiator, then thanks to these locking elements, the device can be removed without turning off the entire system “with vertical wiring, a bypass is required”;
• to change the intensity of the heat flow, you can put control valves in the form of thermostats.
• fastening of the wall heating device is carried out on brackets. The floor radiator is located on a special stand;
• hanging the radiator on the wall is controlled using the building level;
• to connect the battery, the plugs are removed from it. If the connection scheme is single-pipe, then a bypass must be connected. With a two-pipe scheme, the device is connected to the pipe with the help of a squeegee and a valve;
• when performing a pressure test, it is desirable to have a plumber equipped with special equipment.

Connection methods

Before starting work on the installation of the heater, first of all, it is necessary to determine the type of wiring of the system “one-pipe or two-pipe”.

The principle of a single-pipe system has become more widespread in apartments of houses with several floors. With such an organization, hot water flows through pipes from the upper floors to the lower ones.

A significant drawback of this wiring is that temperature control is impossible without the installation of additional devices.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators in a private house is most often performed with a two-pipe heating system. In this case, water circulation is carried out through two pipes, i.e. hot flows through one, and cooled flows through the other. With such a wiring, unlike the one-pipe version, the temperature of the heating system is always stable, and can also be regulated.

Connection options

According to SNiP, the battery connection scheme can be carried out in the following ways:

• Lateral. Is the most popular method. It allows you to connect the inlet and outlet pipes to the same side of the device.
• lower. This diagram looks more neat. The inlet and outlet pipes are placed at the bottom where they are connected to the central pipe. However, this installation method has its drawbacks: there is a decrease in heat transfer by 5-15%, compared with the side scheme. In addition, when a pipe breaks, a leak can occur.
• Diagonal. Water enters through the top pipe on one side, and exits through the bottom pipe on the opposite side. The diagonal option is well acceptable for a private house, which is equipped with autonomous heating and where the coolant circulates at a lower speed. A significant drawback: the circuit is not designed to remove the device without completely turning off the entire heating system. If the device consists of 12 sections or more, their diagonal connection scheme is recommended, since in systems with a lateral connection, the coolant cannot keep the temperature after passing through a multi-section device.

Installation of bimetallic heating radiators should begin with the calculation of the number of required sections. For example, to heat 1 sq.m of a room with a height of no more than 3 m, a thermal power of 100 watts is required. To calculate the number of sections required to heat a room, you can use the formula:

Q=S*100*k/P;

S- the area of ​​​​the room where you want to install a radiator; k- correction factor depending on the height of the ceiling; P- power of one section.

If the ceiling height does not fit into the standard parameters, then special coefficients are applied in this case:

• at a height of 3 m, a coefficient of 1.05 is applied;
• if the height is 3.5 m, it is 1.1;
• with a room 4 m high, the coefficient becomes -1.15;
• with a room height of 4.5 m - the coefficient is 1.2.

Example:

h = 2.7 m - "ceiling height"

P = 0.138 kW

Number of sections?

Solution: Q = 20 x 100 / 0.138 = 14.49

Answer: 14 sections are required.

In this example, the coefficient is equal to one, since the height of the room is less than 3 m.

Installation or installation of bimetallic heating radiators involves the use of a level.

Such measures are necessary to ensure that the battery is mounted as evenly as possible, without distortions. In addition, it is important that the device is mounted strictly horizontally, or with a slight deviation towards the pipe, which will make it possible, by the end of the heating season, to drain the water without residue. Installed brackets must be checked for strength, and then hang the radiator.

Lightweight batteries are hung on two hooks. If the device is not very large in length, then the brackets can be installed between the extreme sections on both sides. The third holder is determined in the middle of the radiator from below. With an odd number of sections, the third hook is installed to the right or left of the nearest section. After mounting the brackets, they should, if possible, be hidden with mortar.

Before starting the installation of hooks, holes are drilled in the intended areas, into which the dowels are determined. Then, with the help of self-tapping screws 6 x 35 mm, “options are possible” fix the brackets. For panel radiators, the kit has its own fasteners. Their number depends on the length of the heater.

The specifics of installing batteries in an apartment

Before starting the installation of new heating devices in an apartment, it is imperative to obtain permission from the operating company in charge of this house. Since the centralized heating system in public houses is a common house property, all unauthorized interventions related to the distribution of heating require approval, otherwise such arbitrariness threatens with a punishment in the form of an administrative fine.

Installing heating batteries with your own hands is a completely feasible operation at home. By replacing the heaters with newer ones, it is possible to achieve better heating of the premises. The efficiency of the entire heating system depends on the quality of the batteries.

In this article, we will look at how to properly install radiators in your home quickly and reliably.

What is needed for the production of work

In order to independently install heating devices with our own hands, we need:

• Assemble a set of tools;
• Make measurements and calculations;
• Study the possibilities and rules of connection;
• Have the will and the time.

If you have the desire, then nothing will be impossible for you. If you have experience of similar works, then it will be useful to you.

Heating wiring options

The scheme for installing heating batteries can be as follows:

• Diagonal. In most cases, it is used when connecting multi-section heating devices. A distinctive feature is the connection of pipelines. So the supply is connected to the upper futorka on one side of the radiator, and the return is connected to the lower futorka on the other side. In the case of a serial connection, the coolant moves under the pressure of the heating system. Mayevsky cranes are installed to remove air. The disadvantage of such a system is revealed when it is necessary to repair the battery, since the installation of central heating batteries in this way does not imply the possibility of removing the batteries without shutting down the system;
• Lower. This type of wiring is used when the pipelines are in the floor or under the plinth. This method is the most acceptable in terms of aesthetics. The return and supply pipes are located at the bottom and are directed vertically to the floor;

• Lateral one-sided. This is the most common type of connection; if you wish, you can find many photos and videos about it on the Internet. The essence of this type is to connect the supply pipe to the upper futorka, and the return pipe to the lower one. It should be noted that such a connection gives maximum heat transfer. If you connect the pipelines the other way around, then the power will drop by ten percent. The rules for installing radiators state that in case of poor heating of sections in multi-section radiators, an extension of the water flow must be installed.
• Parallel. The connection in this case is carried out through a pipeline that is connected to the supply riser. The coolant leaves through a pipeline connected to the return. Valves installed before and after the radiator make it possible to repair and remove the battery without interfering with the operation of the system. The disadvantage is the need for high pressure in the system, since circulation is poor at low pressure. How to install a heating battery in this way, more experienced installers will be able to help you.

Correct connection

The rules for installing radiators are the same for all types of heating elements, whether they are cast iron, bimetallic or aluminum radiators.

To ensure normal air circulation and heat transfer, strict adherence to permissible distances is required:

• For the necessary circulation of air masses, you need to make a distance of about five to ten centimeters from the top of the radiator to the window sill;
• The gap between the bottom of the battery and the floor covering must be at least ten centimeters;
• The distance between the wall and the heater must be at least two centimeters and not more than five. In the event that the wall will be equipped with reflective thermal insulation, then the standard brackets will be short. To install the battery, you need to buy special fasteners of the desired length.

Counting radiator sections

Before installing radiators, you need to determine the required number of sections. This information can be found out when buying in a store, or you can take note of the rule: with a room height of no more than 2.7 meters, one section is able to heat two square meters. When calculating, rounding is done up.

Of course, heating an insulated cottage or a corner room in a panel house is a different task. Therefore, you must understand that the calculation of sections is an individual process, which is based on the characteristics of the room and heating elements, and the price of heating devices in these two cases will be different.

Tool for the job

Do-it-yourself installation of a heating battery is possible with the necessary tools.

The set of tools consists of:

• Impact drill;
• A set of keys;
• Pencil;
• Roulettes;
• Building level;
• pliers;
• Screwdriver.

Important! Do not use a file or emery to clean the surfaces to be bonded. This may result in poor sealing.

Installing the battery

You can install the heating battery by following the steps below:

• If old heaters are being replaced with new ones, then at the beginning it is necessary to dismantle the old ones. To do this, you need to drain the water from the heating system, if you live in an apartment building, then you need to contact the ZhEK;
• Marking is carried out for mounting new radiators;
• A bracket is installed and a battery with a regulator is hung. After installing the bracket, make sure that it is securely fastened and can support the weight of the battery, to do this, press on it with all your weight;
• Installation of valves and connection of heating pipelines. When installing shut-off valves, pay maximum attention to ensure that the threaded connections are reliable.

Conclusion

We hope that after reading this article you have received the necessary set of knowledge and now you understand how to properly install a heating battery in your home. By following the rules and tips given in this article, you will make the installation process safe and of high quality.

The construction of a new house or the restoration of an old building involves the modernization of the heating system, which includes all types of work. Among them - drafting a project, selecting a scheme for connecting radiators, arranging pipelines, choosing the type of batteries. The key to providing high-quality home heating is the installation of heating radiators. To master the installation technology, you should read the instruction manual, study the detailed step-by-step instructions and use the experience of practitioners in your work.

Choosing the option of connecting devices to pipes, they strive to ensure the greatest heating efficiency. Connection is most often carried out in three ways.

1. Side - the most common, allows you to achieve the greatest heat transfer, optimal for small radiators. The system looks like this: in the upper part, the battery is connected to the inlet pipe, and in the lower part (on the same side) - to the outlet pipe. If the coolant is supplied from below, it loses power. Even a non-specialist can easily do the job; this method does not require a lot of materials.

2. Bottom. The inlet and outlet pipes are located below and are connected to the main pipe, hidden under the floor or baseboard. The installation scheme with a bottom connection has a significant disadvantage: a decrease in thermal efficiency by 5-15% compared to the side version. However, long radiators with a bottom connection heat up better than those with a side connection. And one more undesirable moment: when a pipe breaks, you have to remove the floor covering, the downstream apartment may suffer from leakage.

3. Diagonal. Water enters through the top outlet on one side and exits through the bottom outlet on the opposite side. The most successful place for a diagonal connection is a private house with independent heating, in which the coolant circulates at a low speed.

If there are more than 12 sections in the devices, their diagonal connection is recommended (including if the installation site is an apartment). In systems with side connection, the coolant, even under high pressure, cannot pass through the multi-section radiator, maintaining the temperature.

Varieties

Before the installation technology of heating devices is described, it is worth studying their features. For each type, there are preferred connection options.

• Cast iron.

Among their advantages is the resistance of the material to wear, corrosion, high temperatures and water pressure. The cast iron battery heats up for a long time and stays hot for just as long. The downside is the need for annual maintenance - painting and washing. The cast iron unit is built into the heating system in various ways.

• Steel.

They are distinguished by an increased heat transfer coefficient, original design, and are not clogged with suspensions from the coolant. Disadvantages: susceptibility to corrosion (if made of carbon steel) or high cost (made of stainless steel). The steel panel battery is connected by the side method, there are lower options. If the device is sectional, side mounting is preferable.

• Aluminum.

They have the highest heat dissipation, attract modern design. Installation of aluminum radiators is recommended for autonomous heating in a small private house. In this case, it is necessary to control the composition of water and pressure in the system. Most often, a diagonal connection is used: due to it, the aluminum unit works more efficiently. There are also models designed for bottom connection.

• Bimetallic.

They successfully combine the strength of cast iron and the thermal efficiency of aluminum, resistant to corrosion and pressure drops. Installation of bimetallic radiators is possible both in the house and in the apartment. A wide range of products includes panel and tubular products. It is possible to choose units of various execution: standard, low, vertically located. Almost every model is designed to connect in different ways. The bimetal radiator has 4 connecting points: two at the bottom and two at the top.

Having decided on the type of radiator, a simple calculation of the number of heaters is performed separately for each room. On average, 1 kW of thermal energy is needed per 10 m2 of room area (no more than 3 m high). By dividing the total amount of energy by the power of the radiator, their number is determined. Power information is contained in the product manual.

List of requirements

The norms and rules for piping in force in Russia require strict adherence to a number of technical and construction regulations.

1. Installation is carried out in areas of the room with maximum heat loss. Usually such a place is the gaps between the windows and the floor.

2. The battery must be in a certain position. It is removed at least 100 mm from the window sill, 30 mm from the wall and 60 mm from the floor. The specified distances take into account the specifics of the distribution of heated air.

3. Connection of radiators to the general network is carried out according to a certain scheme, depending on the type of devices and the characteristics of the heating system.

4. Reliability of fastening to the wall is ensured by installing radiators on three brackets. Their arrangement is as follows: one fastener is located at the bottom and two at the top. Brackets are mounted using dowels and mortar.

5. At the top of each section, a valve is connected to bleed air from the system. It can be manual or automatic.

6. After the installation is completed, open the stopcocks. Do this gradually, without jerking, to prevent water hammer.

Step-by-step instruction

The installation of each type of radiator has its own characteristics, but a few general recommendations should be followed. In order for the installation to take place without errors on your own, for a start, the manual that each unit has is carefully studied. When buying consumables, fittings and components, their quality is checked. In the process of connecting radiators, all connections are made absolutely tight.

Before starting the installation with your own hands, prepare a universal and special tool:

• impact drill;
• screwdriver;
• building level;
• pliers;
• drills with victorious soldering;
• pencil, tape measure;
• torque wrench for tightening pipes.

The technology for installing heating batteries is divided into several stages.

1. A strapping scheme is being designed. This procedure is best entrusted to a heating engineer. He draws up a list of purchased products, without which it is impossible to mount a radiator with your own hands.

2. Choice of materials. If the apartment is with central heating, the heating batteries are piping with steel pipes and valves - this will prevent the fittings from breaking off at high pressure in the system. In a private house you can buy metal-plastic materials.

If the scheme developed by the designer requires that an American ball valve be used during installation, you should know that only a specialist can make its hermetic connection. Doing the installation of batteries with your own hands, they put a conventional radiator valve.

3. Overlap. If one new battery is installed, the water is shut off in front of and behind it. When all heating batteries are replaced, the system is completely blocked - regardless of whether it is a private house or an apartment. The water is drained, the residues are pumped out.

4. Prepare the wall. It is necessary to level it with plaster and putty. Before the installation of fasteners begins, marking, punching holes with a puncher, and installing dowels are carried out.

5. Fixings. The wall-mounted device is hung on brackets. At the same time, light wall partitions are drilled through, performing the installation of fasteners on the other side. The floor battery is placed on a special stand.

6. Preparation of heating radiators. The cast-iron battery is pre-disassembled, after which the nipples are tightened. The aluminum or bimetallic unit is not removed from the package until the installation work is completed.

7. Assembly. The devices are equipped with taps with detachable connections, a Mayevsky tap for bleeding air, radiator plugs and plugs, and thermostats. In order for the battery to be securely fastened with all the elements, the joints are sealed with tow.

It should be noted that a bimetallic radiator is never assembled using sandpaper and a file, in order to avoid leaks.

8. Installation of radiators on brackets. When the battery is suspended, its vertical and horizontal position is controlled using the building level. If at the end of the season it is planned to drain the water from the system, the radiator is placed with a slight deviation from the horizontal towards the pipe. This will completely remove the water to keep the battery dry.

9. Connection. Plugs are unscrewed from the batteries. If the design is single-pipe, a pre-prepared bypass is connected - so that, if necessary, the device can be cut off. With a two-pipe heating system, the battery is connected to the pipe with the help of a squeegee, to which the valve is screwed. The fastening points are again sealed with tow.

10. Hydrotesting. The technology provides for checking the tightness of the joints and their performance at the design working pressure and during water hammers. The second name of the test operation is pressure testing of heating batteries. It is quite difficult to do it yourself - it is better to invite a plumber with special equipment.

Turnkey cost

To heat a house or apartment as efficiently as possible, with a minimum likelihood of failures and breakdowns, it makes sense to entrust the work to experienced professionals. It consists of several stages:

• departure for a preliminary assessment;
• project development;
• choice of equipment;
• installation of radiators, if necessary - their testing, launch.

The price of work for each customer is determined individually, it depends on the complexity of the project, the number of devices and their design features. In order to preliminarily calculate how much it will cost to install a heating system, you need to find out what the price is for one point - it means the complex cost of installation services. On average, this figure in Moscow is 2500 rubles. The total turnkey cost differs significantly from different contractors. To get the expected result, you should draw up an agreement with the company, constantly monitor the process and quality.

In our country, the average outdoor temperature during the cold season does not exceed 8°C. Consequently, all residential premises in private and multi-apartment buildings must be heated. In most regions, the heating season lasts about 150 days or more. Therefore, the heating system must be reliable and not pose a threat of a possible accident during frosts on the street.

The most important element of heat supply to the premises are heating devices, which, according to the type of material, are divided into:

• steel;
• cast iron;
• bimetallic;
• aluminum.

In addition, sometimes you can find heating convectors made of finned copper pipes, which are most often used for hidden installation in floors.

The device of bimetallic batteries

As the practice of recent years has shown, of the listed series of radiators, bimetallic models are the most efficient and reliable. They have a clear advantage over other materials, which are:

• high resistance to corrosion;
• a wide range of operating temperatures and pressures;
• a simple possibility of changing the heat transfer of the device by changing the number of assembled sections;
• low inertia during heating and cooling;
• a small amount of coolant required for filling;
• low weight, facilitating installation;
• affordable for most people.

It should also be noted the ease of installation of bimetallic radiators. Due to the presence of standard fasteners, this process will not cause structural damage and will ensure high-quality fixation of heating equipment.

The design of bimetallic batteries consists of a set of sections. When assembled, such a package consists of two horizontal pipes connected by vertical hollow ribs through which the coolant circulates.

To increase the heat transfer of the heater, the outer surface of the fins and pipes is increased due to additional planes. The sections are connected to each other using hollow nipples with double-sided thread, provided that a sealing gasket is installed.

To protect against corrosion, the inner surface of the sections is covered with a protective layer of aluminum alloy. The outer metal surface is painted according to the technology of thermal application of powder polymer paints. This gives the products a beautiful appearance and ensures their durability.

Before you install a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands, you need to purchase a set of 4 special plugs. Two of them have a ½ inch internal thread, the third must be without a hole, and one has an air outlet device installed. When buying a kit, you should pay attention to the direction of the thread - there should be two right and two left.

Calculation of the required number of sections

The number of sections of heating devices is determined depending on the heat loss through the building envelope. An accurate calculation can only be performed by a specialist with the appropriate education.

But enlarged normative indicators for typical buildings have long been defined, which take the necessary heat consumption from the calculation 1 kW of thermal energy per 10 m 2 of the room. This figure provides a guaranteed power reserve of the device by 10-15%.

The heat transfer of bimetallic radiator sections in Watts is indicated in the product passport, which is included in each package. Therefore, to determine the number of sections required for heating a room, it is necessary to area in m 2 multiplied by 100 and divided by the heat transfer of one section in W.

The result is rounded up to the next whole number. A rough check is made from the condition that on average one section heats 1.2-1.4 m 2. Performing calculations allows you to refuse to buy unnecessary items and save money.

Selecting a battery installation location

When installing heating systems, at the first stage, heating devices are installed, equipped with shut-off and control valves, and after that pipe laying begins. Any battery can be installed temporarily and removed from the mounts at the time of cutting the strobe or performing other work.

Therefore, it is recommended to connect bimetallic heating radiators without removing the packaging polyethylene film, or by wrapping it yourself to protect it from dust, dirt and possible damage. The film can only be removed during thermal testing of the heating system.

The basic requirements for the installation of sectional batteries are given by the manufacturer in the technical data sheet of each model. However, there are general mandatory conditions for the installation of bimetallic heating radiators:

• the middle of the radiator must coincide with the center of the window under which it is installed;
• the upper plane of the device must be located strictly horizontally;
• all batteries in the room must be at the same height;
• the distance from the back wall of the sections to the wall is not less than 30 mm and not more than 50 mm;
• the distance from the floor and window sill to the heater must not be less than 100 mm.

The last condition does not define a high setting correctly. If you raise the bottom of the radiator to a height of more than 150 mm, then the possibility of insufficient heating of the lower space of the room is likely.

Self-assembly of sectional heating batteries

Before installing the radiator, the surface of the wall that will be behind it must be plastered and puttied. After that, it is recommended to stick a sheet of foil isol on it, corresponding to the dimensions of the heater.

During the finishing, the reflective surface can be wallpapered, painted or tiled - the foil will still ensure the reflection of heat towards the living space.

Necessary tools and additional materials

To perform installation work on the installation of sectional bimetallic heating radiators, it is necessary to prepare:

• adjustable wrench;
• perforator or impact drill;
• pipe wrench Popov (ass);
• building level;
• tape measure and pencil;
• radiator wrench with end blade 24 mm;
• a set of end caps with a plug and a Mayevsky tap;

• ball valve ½ inch with detachable connection, external and internal thread;
• valve-regulator for thermal head;
• radiator gaskets;
• bouffant flax (tow);
• sanitary silicone or investment paste.

Depending on the installation method, the fastening elements can be hinged or floor. In the first case, they need 4, in the second - 2.

Repacking radiator sections

Before installing the battery in place, it is necessary to assemble the device with the estimated number of sections. The factory equipment includes sets of 10 elements. Therefore, in most cases, you will have to separate or add a few pieces. This is done using a special radiator key, the length of which is at least 8 sections, and the width of the end blade is 24 mm.

Look at the direction of the thread on one of the end holes of the radiator. Insert the key inward so that the blade of the key is in the joint area between the sections to be separated. Turn the key in the opposite direction from the thread direction. The moment of separation of elements is usually accompanied by a click.

Adding the removed sections to another set is done in reverse order.

Options for connecting the heater to the distribution pipelines

After repacking, plugs, valves and a valve for air release are installed on the battery. The way how to connect a bimetallic heating radiator in an apartment is determined by the variant of the piping system, which can be:

• saddle;
• diagonal;
• unilateral.

In the first case, shut-off valves are installed on both sides of the device, in the holes of the lower plugs, and the Mayevsky valve is installed in the upper far one along the course of the coolant. The name of the second strapping option determines the installation of fittings in the upper and lower plugs located diagonally on the radiator.

A one-way connection scheme is used for single-pipe vertical risers of multi-storey buildings. In this case, the taps are mounted at the top and bottom on one side of the battery.

Mounting a bimetallic radiator on the wall

After repacking the sections and installing shut-off and control valves, you can proceed with the installation of the heater in its intended place. In this case, the do-it-yourself procedure is as follows:

1. measure the distance from the lower edge of the section to the center of the upper nipple connection and add 100-120 millimeters to this value;
2. make a mark on the wall according to the height of the measurement made;
3. draw a horizontal line passing through the mark made earlier;
4. on this line draw the position of the middle of the window;
5. take a measurement between the nipples of the penultimate sections of the radiator along the edges, divide the result by two and set it aside along a horizontal line on both sides of the center of the battery;
6. measure the distance;
7. from the marks obtained vertically down, set aside the distance corresponding to the measurement between the centers of the section nipples (usually 500 or 300 mm);
8. drill 4 holes according to the marks obtained, insert plastic plugs into them and screw the hinged fasteners along the thread;
9. hang the radiator on the installed supports.

After that, it is necessary to measure the distance from the battery to the wall and check the horizontal position of the upper plane of the device with a level. If necessary, the fasteners should be unscrewed or screwed in, and the horizontal installation should be adjusted by bending up or down the installed supports.

Floor mounting of radiators

This type of installation of radiators is used in the absence of a solid load-bearing wall. This happens when constructing window openings to the floor level, display railings or covering the surface with plasterboard boards with a significant distance (more than 200 mm) from the main walls.

Floor mounts are a metal support structure in the form of the letter "H" with a lower transverse bar for screwing to the surface. They are made in two versions:

• from a steel corner;
• from bent profile pipes.

The easiest way to install a heater without fixing it to a wall is as follows:

1. take 2 fasteners and just put them on the bottom of the radiator;
2. put the device together with fasteners at the place of its installation;
3. ask an assistant to hold the battery and make marks on the floor through the holes in the bottom bar;
4. remove the fasteners, drill holes and screw the support to the floor with dowels.

It is recognized that the floor installation of radiators is less reliable than the hinged one. But there are options that this will be the only possible solution for providing space heating. An alternative can only serve as underfloor heating.

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