Construction of forests. DIY scaffolding made of wood (photo)

Sooner or later, construction reaches the finishing of the facade. And here the need arises to carry out work in the height range from 4 to 10 meters. After all, the gables need to be hemmed, the siding needs to be installed, the façade elements need to be painted, and drainage system install.

There is only one way out - to install scaffolding or a tower. But industrial building structures expensive, and the price for a tower tour is working height At 8-10 meters it bites strongly. You can rent them, but if the work takes a long time, such a rental will cost a pretty penny.

Metal or wood

Scaffolding can be made of wood or metal. The practical experience of forum members suggests that building metal structures It is economically feasible only if you have “free” hardware. If you buy metal, fasteners, engage in welding work, then such structures will ultimately cost more than factory ones and, especially, wooden ones.

While scaffolding can be carefully disassembled and the boards put to use, metal ones are doomed to gather dust in utility block. Experienced builders will tell you that high-quality scaffolding or a tower can then be rented out. But few private developers will want to bother with this. Therefore, the majority of forum users still prefer wooden structures.

HukTo member FORUMHOUSE

Metal scaffolding is better than wooden scaffolding, but the main trump card of wooden scaffolding is the relative cheapness, simplicity and speed of their production.

Advice from FORUMHOUSE: it is better to build your own wooden scaffolding from high-quality lumber. A quality board, unlike waste material, which will have to be thrown away after use, can be used in a new construction project.

DIY scaffolding for your home.

How to make scaffolding from boards

Before you start making homemade wooden structures, you need to decide on the scope of work. If in one case they can be the simplest - attached (for lining gables, siding country house etc.), then in other cases (finishing the facade with stone or brick, plastering work etc.) a more serious design is needed.

The dimensions of the base unit are as follows:

• Length – 5 m;
• Width – 1 m;
• Height (thickness) – 3.5 m.

The construction took 60 linear meters boards 150x50mm.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

They are called "scaffolding - envelope".

DIY construction scaffolding

The design itself looks like the letter G attached to. A 150x50 board is taken as a basis, another board is nailed to it perpendicularly - support platform, on which the flooring is then laid.
One of essential elements Such structures are jibs - boards 25-50x100, with which two main boards knocked together at right angles are sheathed on the sides.

Usually 3 jibs are nailed on each side. Thus, the rigidity of the entire structure is achieved.

Such forests do not need a rigid connection with the house. The force load is carried by the support board, which at one end rests against the place where the boards are attached, and at the other - the pointed end - is stuck into the ground.

If the house is wooden or frame, then the scaffolding can be nailed to the wall. If the facade cannot be damaged, then they are leaned against the wall, and the main load is carried by the supporting board.

When choosing the size of “envelopes”, you should adhere to the following requirements. If the site is too narrow, it will be difficult and dangerous to walk on it. If the platform is too wide, then the “envelope” may come off the wall. Optimal size platforms – 400-500 mm.

The main advantage of attached structures is that their manufacture does not require a lot of lumber.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

The supporting board and, accordingly, the height of the scaffolding can be increased. If the length of the board increases (more than 6 m), then for the rigidity of the structure, another board rests in the corner between the wall and the blind area, the other end of which is attached to the middle of the first - the main board.

Despite the fact that the design is widely known, at the first glance at such structures you doubt their reliability - it’s scary to look at! Let's turn to practical experience users of our site.

Zark member FORUMHOUSE

We call such forests “Armenian”. When I first saw such a design, I was surprised at how it even held up. I tried it, climbed onto the flooring - quite reliably. I myself have used attached scaffolding more than once, both on wood and on brick house. They are convenient, quickly assembled and disassembled. They don't take up much space.

Armenian scaffolding.

Drosha member FORUMHOUSE

This type of forest is quite safe. There is no need to attach the boards to the walls, but the flooring must be screwed with self-tapping screws to the supports (do not knock it down with nails, so that you can quickly disassemble it later).

How to Build Scaffolding for Heavy Duty Work

But such “Armenian” scaffolding is not suitable for all work - mainly for light work. They are good as scaffolding for painting a house, etc. For “heavy” work that requires working with tools, solutions, finishing the facade with stone, etc. a more permanent structure must be used.

The assembly of the structure is done as follows:

• Take a six-meter board (150/200x50) and place it vertically against the wall;
• A second board is placed parallel to it;
• They are secured to each other by horizontal bars. Next, according to the same scheme, the second support is mounted and the flooring is laid;
• For greater rigidity, the racks are supported by additional brace boards that rest against the ground;
• As necessary, the scaffolding is increased in height by attaching additional vertical boards.

Standard dimensions of one span of such scaffolding:

• The step between the racks is 2-2.5 m;
• The width of the flooring for work is 1 m.

DIY wooden scaffolding.

diews FORUMHOUSE member

We made forests like this last summer. They were not attached to the wall. They placed only one wall at a time and then moved it. The main thing is to make braces and stops, and the structure will stand like a glove.

How to make scaffolding better: gpush against the screws

There is always a lot of controversy about how to put together scaffolding,
how to fasten the boards to each other. The opinions of forum members are divided: some believe that it can be assembled with self-tapping screws, others are categorically against it - only with nails.

The main argument of opponents of self-tapping screws is their fragility. The self-tapping screw does not work well under shock loads and shear loads. The result is that the cap flies off, the structure loses strength, even to the point of self-destruction.

How to build scaffolding for cladding a house.

Igor Kokhanov member of FORUMHOUSE

I recommend fastening everything with 120 mm nails with the obligatory bend of the tip on the crossbars and on the jibs. And no self-tapping screws! I'll tell you such a case. Builders I knew were doing the roof. They fastened the boards with self-tapping screws. The result is that the structures separated, all four of them flew from a height of five meters. The result is one in the hospital with broken kidneys. The second was a severe bruise to the leg. But they got off easily; if the altitude had been greater, everything could have ended much worse.

That's why this happened. The nail is made of relatively soft metal. Under load it bends and does not break. The self-tapping screw is made of hardened metal and under alternating and shock loads, it will first bend a little and then break. Moreover, the so-called “black” self-tapping screws, due to hardening, are much more brittle than anodized yellow ones.

For collapsible wooden structures, bolts with a hexagonal head (under a washer) with a diameter of 8 mm and special metal fasteners are well suited.

The main argument of opponents of nails is that it will no longer be possible to carefully disassemble scaffolding that has been nailed together, and part of a good board will have to be thrown out or put to waste. rough work. And the structural elements will be kept from shifting by the large friction force that occurs between the boards if you use self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm long. Therefore, you need to make a compromise - use self-tapping screws to assemble scaffolding “on the ground”. In this case, if an error occurs at the first stage of scaffolding collection, they can be quickly disassembled and rebuilt. And only then additionally nail everything together properly.

Wood is one of the simplest and most inexpensive to process. building materials. Making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is quite simple. The production of scaffolding will consist of 5 successive stages, after completing which you will receive a structure completely ready for work. Tools required for work:

Wooden scaffolding is much cheaper to make yourself than to buy in specialized stores.

• screwdriver;
• plane;
• drill;
• wood hacksaw;
• roulette.

Preparation and selection of materials

The design of scaffolding is such that several types of wood must be used for different parts. In order to prepare the load-bearing supports, you will need a beam measuring at least 10x10 cm, otherwise you will not be able to carry out work from such scaffolding hard work. The platforms themselves are made of fairly thick boards (preferably at least 50 mm thick). The stiffening ribs are made from boards from 25 mm in thickness. It should be remembered that the wood used must be treated by special means, protecting the material from rotting and mold. It is desirable that there are no cracks or knots in the material, then the scaffolding will last longer. For safety reasons, fencing slats can also be added to the structure.

Calculation of frame dimensions and start of collection

Scheme of wooden scaffolding.

In construction, there are restrictions on the minimum permissible width of scaffolding; it must be at least 50 cm. The recommended length of scaffolding is 3-4 m, and the safe height should not exceed 6 m, otherwise the scaffolding may tip over during operation. When selecting material for timber supports, preference should be given to solid rather than composite timber, as this will increase the strength of the future product. To increase the stability of the entire structure, it is better to make the end sides at a converging angle.

Scaffolding you can assemble it with your own hands from small quantity materials. At the beginning of the first stage, two six-meter support beams are placed on horizontal surface. The distance between them is equal to the planned length future design. Two similar beams are laid side by side in the same way. In this case, the upper ends of the beam pair should converge slightly, i.e. if the distance between the lower ends of the pair is 3 m, then the distance between the upper ends should be 2.4 m. This is necessary to increase the stability of the structure. Next, to support beams the sidewalls are attached, which will serve as a support for the decking (ordinary screws are used for fastening). The supports should be mounted with inside. There will be 4 timber sidewalls in total, since it is not recommended to make scaffolding higher than three “floors”. Three sidewalls will be used for flooring, and one, the bottom one, will be used to strengthen the strength.

Connection into a single structure and final installation

Next, you need to connect the side trapezoids obtained at the previous stage with side crossbars. If you nevertheless decide to assemble the scaffolding with your own hands, then in order to avoid injuries and loss of accuracy during joining, this operation should be performed by two or three people. It should be remembered that stable wooden scaffolding must be pyramidal shape, however, the toe angle should not be large. The side crossbars are fastened with self-tapping screws; this is justified by the fact that after completion of construction work, the wooden scaffolding can be quite easily disassembled by unscrewing the screws and stored.

When building, repairing and maintaining a private house or cottage, some work has to be done at height. Not everything can be done with the help of an extension ladder, and it’s not very convenient. It is much more convenient to use scaffolding.

Homemade wooden scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is, of course, reliable and durable, but most often it is made of wood. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need is a saw, nails/screws, a hammer/screwdriver/screwdriver. The set of tools is simple, which any owner can find, and if there is something missing, it doesn’t require a lot of money to purchase. Metal is more difficult in this regard. It requires at least some handling skills, availability welding machine and at least some idea of ​​how. That is why do-it-yourself scaffolding is in most cases made from wood.

What to make from

Everyone understands that scaffolding or scaffolding is needed for a short period of time. But construction wood must be used to make them. good quality, with a minimum of knots. Some craftsmen advise making forests exclusively from spruce. Unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the strength of the board.

But rarely anyone has spruce boards in stock, but pine is usually enough. From pine boards You can also make scaffolding, but each of them needs to be checked (in any case, those that go to the racks and flooring). To do this, stack two columns (three or four bricks one on top of the other, a couple of building blocks, two boulders, etc.). When checking three-meter boards, the distance between them is 2.2-2.5 m. Place the board on the posts, stand in the middle and jump on it a couple of times. If there is weak points, the board will break or crack. Withstood - you can use it.

The thickness of the board must be discussed specifically, referring to the design of the scaffolding, the distances between the posts and the planned load. The only thing that can be said is that 40 mm or 50 mm thick boards are most often used for racks and flooring, and 25-30 mm for jibs. Such a board can be used in detailed construction work, if it is possible not to damage it during dismantling of the scaffolding.

Nails or screws

The debate about whether nails or self-tapping screws are better always goes on, but in this case it is aggravated by the fact that the work is carried out at heights, and increased reliability is required from the structure. From this point of view, nails are better. They are made of soft metal and when loaded, they bend but do not break. Self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, but it is brittle and breaks when exposed to shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding - there have been cases when they fell apart. But we are talking about “black” screws. If they are also anodized - yellowish-green - they are not so fragile and can easily withstand all the loads. If you are seriously concerned about the reliability of the scaffolding, it is better to use nails. They are not liked due to the fact that it is impossible to disassemble the joint quickly and without losses - most often the wood is damaged.

At self-production scaffolding, you can do this: initially assemble everything using anodized screws. If the design turns out to be convenient and correct, play it safe by driving two or three nails into each connection. In order not to damage the wood during disassembly, scraps of thin boards can be placed under the nails; for a long span, whole boards, but of small thickness, can be used. When disassembling, it can be split, and protruding nails can be easily removed.

Designs and their features

For different types works use scaffolding and scaffolding of different designs. Too big for working with light materials bearing capacity not needed. In such cases, attached scaffolds or envelope scaffolds are made.

For work on gables or exterior decoration short one-story house They use construction trestles, on the crossbars of which the flooring is laid.

For laying brick walls, any building blocks, for finishing the facade with brick or stone - all these works require full-fledged scaffolding.

As a rule, all these structures are not attached to the walls of the building, but are fixed with stops that support the racks. Next we will talk in more detail about each of these structures.

Attached scaffolding

They are called so because they are usually not attached to the wall, but simply leaned against it. They are held in place by a stop. The more this type of scaffolding is loaded, the stronger it stands. There are two designs, both of them are made in the form of the letter “L”, only turned in different directions.

The picture on the right shows a simple and reliable design scaffolding Their only drawback is that they are not height adjustable. They are convenient if you need, for example, to hem roof overhangs, install or clean gutters, or all those jobs that have a slight variation in height. Some even adapt such scaffolding for building a house from logs (timber). It is convenient to roll or lift logs along the edges of the stops.

They are reliable - they can withstand an 11-meter log and three people Construction scaffolding - a simple design

In the picture on the left there is an envelope scaffolding or Armenian scaffolding. The design is simple and reliable, although it does not seem so. But it has already been tested on many thousands of houses under construction. It is attractive because it requires a minimum of building materials; they can be assembled/disassembled/moved in a matter of minutes. The main thing is to make triangles, and setting them to a given height takes a little time: raise the triangle, support it with an inclined beam, which is fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, a board 40-50 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide is used. The vertical part can be long - it is convenient to use it to lift the scaffolding to a given height. The top crossbar is made 80-100 cm long, and flooring boards are laid on it. By the way, they are also 50 mm thick, and the wider the better, ideally also 150 mm.

When making corners, the joint must be positioned so that horizontal board was on top. To increase the reliability of this unit, you can use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if the corner is fixed using three jibs nailed on both sides, this is not necessary.

Such triangles are installed approximately every meter. If the façade allows, they are nailed down; if not, they are made use of only by gravity. The main load in this design falls on the thrust board - the one that is placed at an angle and one end rests on the ground, the other on the top of the triangle. These stops are made from timber, boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm, pipes of solid diameter (at least 76 mm) or cross-section (for a profiled pipe at least 50*40 mm). When installing the stop, it is placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, and additionally secured by driving in wedges.

To eliminate the possibility of lateral shift, the installed stops are fixed with several jibs connecting them into a rigid structure. For these jibs you can use unedged board, if there is one, but of sufficient thickness and width.

If there is a need to grow the thrust boards (if they are needed longer than 6 meters), an additional emphasis is made for such a board. It rests approximately in the middle of the main one, relieving part of the load.

Now a little about the flooring of these attached scaffolds. It is made from a wide board 40-50 mm thick. In this case, it is advisable to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the presence of railings, and the slightest movement under your feet will cause increased discomfort. Therefore, fixation is extremely desirable.

Wooden scaffolding: drawings and photos

The options described above are good if the work does not involve heavy materials. Also, it is not always possible to support scaffolding on a wall - any ventilated facade or multi-layer wall - and you similar design You won’t be able to install it anymore. In this case, full-fledged forests are made. Their design is also not complicated, but a decent amount of lumber is required.

For their construction, boards of considerable thickness are also used - 40-50 mm. First, the racks are assembled. That's two vertical beams or thick boards fastened with crossbars. The dimensions of the crossbars are 80-100 cm. They should be made based on the fact that the minimum more or less comfortable width of the flooring is 60 cm. But you will feel much more confident if you have at least 80 cm. To give the structure greater lateral stability the racks can be made tapering at the top.

The stands are placed at a distance of 1.5-2.5 meters. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use for the flooring - it is necessary that they do not sag. The racks installed at the required distance are fastened together with slopes. They will not allow the structure to fold sideways. The more crossbars and jibs, the more reliable the scaffolding becomes.

To prevent scaffolding from falling, they are supported by boards/beams, one end of which is nailed to the posts (with nails), the other is buried in the ground

The cross beams prevent the scaffold from folding sideways, but there is still the possibility that the unsecured scaffold could fall forward. To prevent this from happening, the beams are supported with jibs. If the height of the scaffolding is 2.5-3 meters, this need not be done, but if you need to carry out work at the level of the second or third floor, such fixation is necessary.

If work is carried out on high altitude, it is advisable to make a railing. They can be made from not very thick boards, but there should be no knots or cracks. Handrails will help those who are afraid of heights to feel more confident at the top.

Standard molding is enough to reach the floor level of the second floor - 6 meters. You can assemble small scaffolding from old, but strong boards. Sometimes poles or pipes are used for braces and stops - whatever is available on the farm

Construction trestles

There is also a way to make lightweight mobile scaffolding - build identical construction trestles, filling the crossbars with a certain pitch, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring boards.

This type of scaffolding is good, for example, when covering a house with siding. The sheathing goes from bottom to top, the height has to be changed all the time, there is no way to lean or fix to the wall. Therefore, this option is the best for such a case.

Construction trestles - options

Sometimes one rack on one side is made vertical, without tilting. This allows you to install them closer to the wall, the flooring is then located closer to the wall. In some cases this is convenient - for example, when caulking, painting, preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When building a house from stone, building blocks are more suitable metal scaffolding. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the most cheap look building materials. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put to work - used in further construction. And metal parts should gather dust in.

But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. Owners wooden houses you still have to use them periodically: the log house requires maintenance, so the scaffolding is needed every two to three years. In this case, it is more practical to use metal rather than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape - vertical racks, connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:

• Pin scaffolding. They are called so because the crossbars and posts are connected using pins. Pieces of pipe or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. This system is very easy to assemble and can withstand heavy loads. Pin scaffolding for buildings of simple shape is very easy to implement; going around bay windows and projections is much more difficult.

  

• Clamps. Pipes are used for racks and crossbars round section, which are fastened together using clamps of a special design. The system turns out to be very mobile and movable; you can easily get around any curved facades. The downside is the limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters).

  

  Clamp scaffolding - quick installation/dismantling

• Frame. Frames of the same size are welded from a round or rectangular pipe. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They have a modular structure and can be easily expanded both in height and in length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5/2/2.5/3 meters, in height one section is usually 2 meters, the standard depth is 1 m. Some frames have wheels for easier movement on a flat surface. Connection of flag-type elements - pins with a slot into which the flag is inserted are welded on the frame. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on a pin and secured with a flag. Sections are built up using connecting pipes of smaller diameter welded to the frame posts on one side. With this method, it is important to have perfectly selected pipe sizes so that there is no backlash.

  

  Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening crossbars and jibs

• Wedges. Although generally similar, the designs differ in the form of the connection. On the jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. Special cleft-mouth type locks are welded onto the jumpers at both ends. The locks are fixed to the disk using a specially shaped wedge. Such scaffolding connects and disconnects quickly, has high mobility, and can be used on facades complex shapes.

  

When making metal scaffolding yourself, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are only good on rectangular facades; to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.

During construction work outside and inside premises (if they contain high ceilings) scaffolding is often necessary - it is not necessary to make drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.

Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repairs

Scaffolding is used very widely in construction and repair. Even ordinary DIY wall plaster It’s not easy to do without them, and installing a roof or wall siding becomes a daunting task without auxiliary support structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily knocked together trestle stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.

But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement of everything you need along the facade or wall being repaired. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs is the main benefit of scaffolding, homemade or purchased. The productivity of construction labor when using scaffolding increases several times - so their cost can be entered in the column “payment for speed and convenience of repairs.”

Any scaffolding structure must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, construction and consumables. If there is even the slightest doubt that the scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a ready-made, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such goods is quite diverse.

Classification of scaffolding

The term “scaffolding” itself is associated with the historical experience of decorating facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter “shelves” were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to descendants only its name and the principle of construction.

Modern options are based on a frame and are designed with reusable use in mind. Structurally, scaffolding can be made in the following options:

• Pin scaffolding – from steel pipes, with welded curved fittings and socket locks. They are heavy and clumsy, requiring considerable time to assemble and move - but at the same time very durable. For example, stone or brickwork It’s best to do it with them. Pin scaffolding can be loaded with large number heavy building materials, they are very stable and durable;
• Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and/or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a durable frame. May have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plastering or balcony siding– when the weight of building materials is small, and the work involves rapid movement along (up and down) the object being repaired;
• Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. They can withstand heavy loads and are still mobile. The fastening units are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
• Clamp scaffolding – universal designs small load capacity for repair and restoration of curved facades;
• Suspended - well-known “cradles”, with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. A structure can also be suspended between two stationary scaffolds without support from the ground.

Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only available for purchase; their independent “production” is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, are assembled with your own hands if you have the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.

Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step-by-step instructions

Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material– the creation of wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, which are completely doable on your own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and slats.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood

The work will require several types of wood. The load-bearing supports are made of timber measuring 10x10 cm (a smaller cross-section will not allow heavy lifting from scaffolding construction work). Horizontal decking is made from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffening ribs are made from boards from 25 mm thick. Fence slats with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. The wood for supports and platforms must be free of knots and cracks and must be treated special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.

Step 2: Planning the Frame

The end sides of wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not be an obstacle when repairing walls.

In addition, it is advisable to choose load-bearing supports made of 10x10 cm timber as solid rather than composite ones - then the strength of the multi-story structure will be higher. The minimum permissible width of homemade wooden scaffolding is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise there is a high risk of the scaffold overturning during work. To work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a plane, a drill and a screwdriver.

Step 3: Frame Construction

Two beams no more than 6 meters high are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two are placed side by side in exactly the same way. Upper part the beams should converge slightly upward for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding down a convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center-to-center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then at the top it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapezoids.

The timber sidewalls are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for the working decks, so they are mounted from the inside. In general, wooden scaffolding self-made can have no more than three “assembly floors”, so there will be only four sidewalls made of timber. Three correspond to the levels of the scaffolding, and the lower one serves for strength; it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.

Step 4: Making a volumetric frame

To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolds, you will need an assistant (or better yet, two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the accuracy of the docking will certainly suffer. The side cross members are prepared in advance, and they will be different lengths. The point is that stable scaffolding should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required toe angle is small, otherwise between top part scaffolding and the repaired facade will create an inconvenient gap. Let's say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be sufficient.

Having installed the wooden sides vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side cross members with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and stored in a shed or garage.

Step 5: Final and Additional

All that remains is to nail the decking boards and fencing above each platform to the cross beams. On the sides of the scaffolding, you can add additional crossbars that will serve as ladders. It is also useful to make a knot in the form of a retractable pin above each support for attaching the scaffolding to earthen soil– on flat surfaces it is removed, and the entire structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at heights and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. “Goat” scaffolds are usually called low portable tables that can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for the work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:

1. Vertical posts (accept the work load and transfer it to the ground).
2. Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
3. Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
4. Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders).
5. Persistent slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over).
6. Railings (protect workers from falling).
7. Stairs (used for ascent and descent from work platforms).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. Wooden structure cheaper than steel, but withstands no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wood, but has no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should do schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined optimal dimensions forests:

• maximum height of the structure - 6 meters;
• distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
• The width of the working floor is 1 meter.

Ergonomics has shown that maximum performance is achieved when the builder’s hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from ground level. This will save you from having to put together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

• For cutting racks and thrust braces - timber with a section of 10x10 cm or boards at least 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick.
• Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged boards"thirty".
• For the flooring and the lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, we can recommend the use of nails, and for extended and tall structures– self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in the following order:

• on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards, cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding;
• the racks are connected by horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid;
• the two resulting “ladder” frames are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
• a flooring made of boards is placed on the horizontal lintels and secured;
• the scaffolding is fixed on two side bevels;
• Railings are nailed to the racks, the ladder is placed and fixed for climbing.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide sections of boards, stuffed onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before nailing.

Scaffolding from profile pipe their design is similar to that of wood. The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the number of storeys of a metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

1. Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
2. Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties).
3. Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for the manufacture of adapters and bearings). To make railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
4. Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
5. 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties together and securing them to the frame posts.

The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

• Scaffolding posts are rigidly fixed to the assembly panel (OSB sheet) with clamps (high precision when working with metal is a very important factor);
• horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
• adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks 5 cm and fixed by welding;
• having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the board with clamps;
• the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal bracing are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled into them;
• Having tightened two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and the places for drilling holes are marked;
• the couplers are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
• holes are drilled on posts and railings for bolted connections;
• plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe sections;
• the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
• Flooring from “magpie” boards is laid on the side lintels.

Helpful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring, you need to screw 30x30 mm steel corners to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties must be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for attaching a profile pipe of a thrust bevel, which protects the structure from falling.

In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when extending the scaffolding in length).