DIY garden table drawings. DIY garden table: make it together

Do garden table you can do it yourself using scrap materials, which to many will seem absolutely useless. We offer you unusual ideas for a summer house, which relate to the creation of various garden furniture and tables, among others. Look at the photos of garden tables and choose for yourself best option. When implementing any idea for a summer house, you can use your imagination and make the changes you need.

How to make a garden wooden table with your own hands: photo

A wooden garden table represents the aesthetics of the natural landscape of the dacha and the ease of manufacture. Photos and photos will help you make a garden table with your own hands. detailed instructions. Before you start making a garden table with your own hands, prepare all the necessary materials and tools. Be sure to look at the photo on how to make a garden table with your own hands: they show the production process.

This is a very stylish and original table that can be used both in the garden and country interior. The costs are minimal, because it is based on a pallet of bricks.

You will need:

  • brick pallet;
  • swivel wheels with a diameter of approximately 10-12 cm;
  • antiseptic stain for wood of the color you need;
  • sandpaper;
  • screwdriver;
  • ordinary screws;
  • screws for metal tiles;
  • brushes

The procedure for making furniture and detailed instructions on how to make a garden table with your own hands.

Sand the tray well: first with coarse-grained sandpaper, then with fine-grained sandpaper. You can also use a grinder with a grinding wheel.

Attach swivel wheels to the bottom of the pallet. To do this, use ordinary screws, on which put washers removed from the screws for metal tiles (since there are large holes on the bases of the wheels). You can directly fasten the wheels with screws for metal tiles, but then you will need a special attachment for a screwdriver.

Cover the table with an antiseptic wood stain, preferably containing wax. In this case, the table can be tinted to resemble walnut, rosewood, oak, pine, larch, or use a transparent antiseptic to only highlight the structure of the wood without changing its color.

Please note: not all pallets are the same! They come in different sizes and with different spacing between slats. Choose a pallet that suits you best.

Round garden tables made of wood and their photos

If you have an old round garden table, don't rush to throw it away! Of course, it has absolutely no appearance and is broken, but it is a real find for your garden. In its new guise it will decorate not only a relaxation corner in the garden, but also a country house.

Garden tables made of wood will go with many styles, as their decor is universal.

Look at the photo of garden tables with similar design options:

You will need:

  • old wooden table;
  • wood putty;
  • old tiles of various colors or broken tiles;
  • white facade paint;
  • tile adhesive;
  • white grout for joints;
  • priming;
  • copper and gold contours for glass;
  • spatula;
  • sponge.

Manufacturing procedure

Fill cracks and gouges and sand the table with fine-grit sandpaper, then prime everything except the tabletop. Paint the table with white paint (except the table top).

Wrap up tiles into a piece of drape or other dense soft fabric and break it with a hammer. Apply an even layer of tile adhesive on top of the tabletop and lay out the surface of the tabletop with tile fragments. Trim the edges with a trowel. When your mosaic has dried a little, wipe the surface with a sponge soaked in water to remove any traces of glue from the surface.

After the glue has completely dried, treat the seams between the pieces of tile with white grout.

Paint the sides of the table top with white paint, and then decorate them, as well as the legs of the table, with gold and copper glass outlines.

Plastic garden table

Typically, garden furniture is made of plastic, wood, rattan, presented in soft natural colors.

However, if a bright multi-colored “character” appears in the garden, especially one made of colored glass, then all attention is immediately drawn to it.

And it was made from an old broken flower stand, lids from a metal barrel and ordinary round glass.

However, all these elements can be replaced with scraps of colored plastic.

So, let's look in more detail at how to make a plastic one. dining table with your own hands.

You will need:

  • metal part from a flower stand;
  • lid from a metal garden barrel;
  • round glass with a diameter of 50-60 cm;
  • a piece of rubber seal for windows;
  • paper;
  • pencil;
  • copper circuit for glass;
  • copper acrylic paint;
  • white paint for rust;
  • acrylic primer;
  • means for obtaining patina;
  • paints for glass painting.

Manufacturing procedure

On a piece of paper, draw a circular pattern in the Moroccan style. Then enlarge the pattern to the desired size using a photocopier. Place the pattern under the glass and outline it with a copper outline. Dry the circuit thoroughly for the time recommended by the manufacturer (usually 8 to 24 hours).

Paint the interior parts of the ornament with bright stained glass paints. It's important that the paints you use are distributed evenly within the outlined area, so practice on your countertop before painting. small piece glass, defining required quantity paints for fragments. Dry the finished painting well.

If desired, add additional ones to the finished painting. decorative elements copper circuit.

Paint the barrel lid with white rust paint. Now let's move on to the main part of the tabletop.

Prime the stand piece and paint it copper acrylic paint, then apply a patina product in some areas.

When the “foot” of the table is dry, glue small pieces of window seal onto the parts that will be in contact with the tabletop. This will allow her to hold on well.

Assemble the table: place the painted glass on the lid of the barrel, and place this “tabletop” on the foot.

DIY ideas for a garden and cottage using scrap materials: photos and descriptions

Further on this page you can see ideas for a summer house made from scrap materials and photos of the process of their implementation in practice. We necessarily accompany all ideas for a garden and dacha with your own hands with photos from different angles so that you can clearly see the whole creative process.

Folding garden table

Try making a universal folding garden table for your utility room. It looks beautiful and saves space. And most importantly, it is very convenient and will help you keep your small utility unit in perfect order: everything is in sight, and nothing will get lost.

You will need:

  • cut piece pine boards measuring approximately 60 X 20 cm;
  • two ready-made wooden fastenings for shelf;
  • light yellow façade paint;
  • red acrylic paint;
  • small glass jars with screw caps;
  • screws;
  • screwdriver or screwdriver.

Manufacturing procedure

Sand the board and paint it light yellow.

Decorate the ends of the board with a simple ornament using red paint.

Paint the lids of the jars with red paint.

Attach the jar lids to the board at regular intervals using small screws.

Hang finished shelf on the wall of a utility room or workshop, using ready-made fasteners (in this case, the covers should be on the underside of the shelf).

Fill the jars with screws, nails, small fasteners, staples, nuts and other small household items and screw the jars to the lids.

You can decorate jars with simple painting, applique and any other methods.

Interesting ideas for your dacha, home, garden and vegetable garden with your own hands with photos

And now we offer interesting ideas for a do-it-yourself cottage and garden in relation to other interior items necessary for the household.

This will be a comfortable seat on which you can relax after gardening. All our interesting ideas for a summer house and vegetable garden are accompanied by photos and can be implemented using various available materials.

Make a garden ottoman from old car tires. There are practically no costs, and the effect will exceed all expectations. This ottoman is not a simple one, but an ottoman-chest. You can store garden items in it. This will definitely not happen to anyone!

You will need:

  • two old car tires one diameter;
  • thick plywood;
  • beautiful textiles of your choice;
  • façade paint that matches your fabric in color;
  • white spray facade paint;
  • “liquid nails” or silicone sealant;
  • construction stapler;
  • jigsaw

Manufacturing procedure

Coat both tires with white spray paint and dry. Then paint both tires with light green paint, in a thicker layer, and dry.

Lay the tires on top of each other, securing them with liquid nails or silicone sealant. To do this, apply “dotted” small portions of any of the products in a circle on the surface of the lower tire.

Cut a circle out of plywood with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the tire. Cover it with fabric and secure the fabric with a stapler.

Place the fabric-covered circle on the tire base. There you go! The seat is removable, so inner part The ottoman can be used as a place to store small items.

The paint color of the tires and the color of the seat can be anything, depending on the style of your garden and the color of other garden furniture. In any case, the ottoman will look impressive

Garden furniture: tables and benches

Garden tables and benches are indispensable attributes of a cozy and comfortable country life, in which it is possible to enjoy privacy in a shady corner of the garden.

How to do it garden furniture tables, you could already fully recognize their examples published above. And now we suggest you do it yourself exclusive design garden bench.

A garden bench is not just a necessary thing, but a very necessary one.

It’s so convenient to care for plantings and weed, not on your knees, but sitting on a bench, especially one as beautiful as this one. Even if it stands just like that, it is already a garden decoration, no worse than any figurine.

Add green paint to the pictures: add branches and leaves.

Add accents with gold paint: make painterly strokes on the drawings, emphasizing the lines and details.

When the bench is dry, cover it all, along with the pasted pictures, with a clear or slightly tinted wood preservative.

If desired, the bench can be slightly tinted with blue-gray acrylic paint, creating the effect of old wood.

For everyone, the dacha evokes soybean associations. For example, for some it is work, for others it is outdoor recreation. In any case, in the fresh air after working in the garden, any food will taste better. And in order to no matter what you have to eat, as they say, on your knee, you can equip a special place, the center of which, naturally, will be the table. And such a piece of furniture, made with your own hands, will not only express the care and skill of the master, but will also serve as his pride.

How to make a garden table with your own hands - instructions

To make a table in the country, you don’t need any special skills or tools, because its main function is to stand. Therefore, even a beginner can make such furniture. When choosing a material for a country table, it is worth considering the nature of use: the furniture will be located outside in any weather, so it is important to choose a durable material.

How to make a wooden table for a summer house

It is necessary to carefully choose wood for a table, because each type of wood is good in the area in which it is used. For example, to use coniferous wood, you will have to soak it in a special solution and protect it from fire, but even all these actions will not help get rid of resin stains on the tablecloth. But hardwood, on the contrary, is excellent for these purposes.

Wooden table

The tabletop should consist of boards, at least three to five centimeters wide. For greater stability, they need to be nailed to the frame. The legs are usually made straight or crossed. To avoid the danger of getting a splinter during lunch, you need to carefully treat all surfaces. In addition, the finished table needs to be protected special compounds. You can varnish the table for extra strength. As a rule, the varnish is applied in three layers, having previously been heated in a water bath.

You can also use logs to make a wooden table; they are also perfect for creating benches. You can also use narrow slats in combination with a metal frame.

In essence, making a table from wood comes down to two technologies: the cuts are connected to each other and form a dining plane; The cuts are fixed on a solid base.

How to make a stone table for a summer house

The stone table impresses with its inaccessibility and strength. It will definitely withstand all the tests of nature and will serve the family and dacha for many years.

You can reduce the cost of the design by laying out the base yourself and buying only the tabletop. For the bases you can use rubble, flagstone, cobblestones, brick. These materials fit perfectly into the interior of the garden and the dining group will look very original.

How to make a metal table for a summer house

If the house has welding machine and a person who knows how to operate it can make furniture out of metal. Such dinner groups are original and interesting. To extend the life of such furniture, the metal must be protected from rust and exposure to aggressive environments. The easiest way to do this is to use a special primer, which serves as a base for the paint.

Table for a summer house made of a different material

There are no limits for an inventive person with imagination. For country furniture, you can use any available material, from old tires to wooden pallets.

Original table ideas for the garden

From pallets

Loft style, gaining popularity in lately, encourages the use of atypical materials for the interior. For example, pallets. It's convenient, environmentally friendly, and most importantly, cheap material used to construct benches, tables, sofas, even beds. For furniture, it is better to take new pallets; you can choose the size - euro or Russian. In addition, the size of the pallets can be adjusted independently. To arrange the table you will need from one to three pallets, depending on the design. You can put glass or plywood on the lid. Before use, you need to carefully check the pallet for any unnecessary nails, then sand it. When the product is ready, it needs to be painted or varnished.


Outdoor table and benches made from pallets

From a cable reel

Processing this material does not require much skill or labor. You can lighten the structure, polish the top and paint it. If desired, you can complement the design with crossbars for storing things or beautiful designs.

Outdoor table and cable reels

From old tires

The tires need to be painted in the desired color and laid out in a column. For the tabletop, you can use wood, the same tires, but on a frame, or any convenient material available. It is worth saying that furniture made from tires is resistant to temperature changes and any other weather conditions, as a result of which it will last a long time and does not require maintenance.


Outdoor table and chairs made from old tires

A table is the second item after a stool that a beginning amateur furniture maker should take on. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; an unpretentious, comfortable table for the country house or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly refined can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensive one. However, the table also gives more freedom creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design; it is not for nothing that artisanal furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinet makers or nightstand makers. Having become proficient in carpentry, you will eventually be able to take on exclusive tables and other positions. right there.

This article discusses how to make tables from wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic advantages. In utilitarian products, it forgives beginners quite serious mistakes, but delicate woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, it will be much easier to master glass, metal and plastic.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodworking, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means tinting and protecting wood, like stains, emit harmful fumes during the staining process; nitro varnishes too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, or better yet, with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and it will not be good for the car. Better to work in a barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, and it will be useful for a lot of things on the farm.

An ordinary carpenter's tool, on the left in the figure, will be enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better, if you attract help from modern achievements, on the right there:

  • Rotary miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make cuts exactly to size and angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper and the work will be more accurate. A miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
  • Also universal is a manual jigsaw with a tilting shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
  • Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, gives a beginner the opportunity in 5-15 minutes to obtain the surface of a wooden surface, which would take an experienced carpenter with sandpaper in hand at least an hour to achieve, and a tape one, pos. 5, also process ends quickly and efficiently; there is more belt sanders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders, i.e. They artificially age the wood, but this is delicate work.
  • It is also preferable to rent at first hand router on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges and select holes and grooves.

In general, a universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) is very useful on the farm. different modifications. It is compact, fits on the table, power supply – 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, a jointer, a wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just turn table legs on it; the reach of the tailstock caliper is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe; it’s not difficult to extend it. The cutter stop remains standard, it is movable, the leg and the long support are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of average resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Domestic ones include:

The breeds are listed in order of availability. e.g. timber harvesting horse chestnut, plane tree and juniper are not cultivated at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks elms are almost entirely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and rowan trees are used for weapon stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, and does not renew itself well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and its wood is expensive.

Note: Walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent toughness, the most openwork carving It doesn't hurt the nut. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. The countertop will be pine or oak; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop it warps a lot from spills. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

For a pine tabletop made from boards, you can and even should use low-grade cheap boards - knotty, twisted ones. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, traces of rot on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is there substandard quality on the countertop? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished using a circular saw and jointer? And after skillful processing, they turn out to be layers of remarkable beauty, on the left in Fig. Manufacturers do not like such wood: the production cycle is delayed and waste increases. But for yourself, doing it yourself is not so scary compared to the result.

Wooden pot

Commercial pine has a clearly defined wood zonation in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many deciduous species also have it. On the cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. hump in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in Fig. in the center, then when joining the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with their humps alternately up and down, from below in Fig. If the humps are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with their humps in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the tabletop does not crack or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free way to protect wood from rotting is used motor oil, but for what you eat, this is not the best option. Impregnation with water-polymer emulsion (WPE) twice, with a break of 3-5 days, would be optimal; it will provide protection to the table for the entire duration of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with EPE is suitable for furniture front panels: coated with varnish on top, it does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually going out of use: they are superior in all respects to water-based acrylic varnishes; In addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 with alcohol are inferior to PVA; True, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them until they are tack-free before joining and keeping them under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production this is acceptable for yourself.

Wood for furniture can be tinted in advance and protected with stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. For touch-up assembled units You can use paints based on the same varnish and artistic (not painting!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC varnishes and acrylic water-based for the same varnish.

First, prepare the “painting”: take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it while continuously stirring thoroughly with a painting brush. The paint is stored in a tightly closed bottle and added to the varnish to the desired tone; A test for it is made on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes based on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If there are 1-2 brick pallets left from the construction site, then a table made from pallets will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in Fig. If you have a pair in stock, you can make a wall-mounted work desk-rack out of them in literally half an hour, in the center and on the right. You can also weave chains for it yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To completely raise the tabletop small tool placed on the shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a prefabricated cutting table for the dacha is made from one pallet, allowing you to move the summer-autumn harvesting campaign outside without littering with husks and without trampling on stalks. For the winter, this table is assembled into a compact package. The design is clear from Fig; Place a bucket under the hatch in the countertop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country trestle table, in common parlance a goat. Its structure of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right is a country folding table based on the same principle. It has articulated joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on nails between the crossbars of the table top. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it’s also suitable for going on a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the table top can be made longer.

Finally, a gazebo table also does not require any special tools or skills, see fig. below. The material is the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, you now need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a table top, its supporting frame, possibly with niches and/or mechanisms, or simply a plate - a base - legs, and the nodes that hold everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because... their fastening is the most weak point table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled using quick-drying glue that does not require curing: wood glue, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, to connect thin boards, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off heads are used, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, use thin-layered wood that is stronger than both parts being connected, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table on birch legs can be connected with oak or beech dowels. There are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels on sale; Before use, the edges of the dowels are chamfered. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, e.g. inserts in sliding tables.

The legs are attached to industrial tables with detachable drawers, see fig. right. The item marked in yellow is the simplest, cheapest and worst. Buyers of Shiroptrebov Soviet furniture are well aware of its shortcomings and complete lack of advantages, let it remain there. Reliable, holds well, except for the legs, and the boards of the underframe, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite labor-intensive, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. The drawbar with a shaped steel jib, at the top right in the figure, is even stronger; In this way, you can attach round-headed legs or any legs in general, but you will need purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel.

Note: The legs are attached to the round table as shown below in Fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, it is often simply impossible to push a table with legs into the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be brought in/out through the window, so in such cases the strength and durability of a table with tightly secured legs comes to the fore.

For tables on rectangular base the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in Fig. By the way, the drawers can also be one-piece: then the legs have dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the grain of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that you can fight with these 200-year-old tables by grabbing the legs.

Sufficiently high-quality tables with turned legs are simply assembled on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs from a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. To prevent them from clinging to the floor, you need to put thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

Tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest, option is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Laminated chipboard for countertops is available in the form of so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m thick 20-60 mm with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the lower edge has a drip tray, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is completely environmentally friendly, no matter what those who don’t want to forget the furniture, which stank of phenol for months, gossip about.

Postforming is well purchased by small furniture enterprises. They always have his waste; of them you are willing and for completely affordable price They will cut the tabletop to size if the company has a jig cutting machine. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be edged, i.e. cover the end of the PVC with edging (edge). If you do the edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an absurd extra payment for edging), then keep in mind:

  • The upper and lower flanges of the edging have different profiles, see on the left in Fig. Mix it up and there will always be a dirt edging on the table.
  • The edging must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the slab. You can put a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm slab, but it will soon slide off.
  • The groove for the edging ridge must be selected using a manual disk cutter; No one seems to have done it properly with a saw yet.
  • Before installing the edging, apply to the surface of the end thin layer silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also act as a lubricant, without which the edge ridge may simply become wrinkled.
  • The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop should lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately wiped off with a clean rag lightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are held together in plank frames with wedges and spacers - wedges. It’s quite possible to make the vamps yourself; You need 3-4 per tabletop. The boards (cheeks) of the weim are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. In Fig. for example, the process of making a round tabletop; The rectangular one is put together in the same way, only cutting it to size is easier. The shield is attached to the tabletop using glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are tongue-and-groove, dowels are not needed. When rallying on PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue comes off before installing it in the clamp.

Countertops are often assembled without rims on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic film. It will not be possible to assemble a good plank board on the plaza: either it will come out cracked, or the boards will stand on end when assembling it. But stacked tabletops from fragments are obtained in in capable hands simply wonderful. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. – tabletop made from sawing waste, tinted with stain. And at pos. 4-5 The base of the tabletop was the platform itself, made of thick plywood. The tile and its chips are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout, the surface is varnished and the outline is outlined with a wooden strip edge.

Note: These examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making inlaid artistic tabletops with your own hands.

Underframe

The table base with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in Fig. Niches and parts of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/extendable, or large operating loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffening ribs in the center. If the legs are attached with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the tabletop to create a single power circuit, on the right in Fig.

Without frame

Tables without an underframe are also known, in which the tabletop and legs work in one carrier system. Very durable, e.g. plywood table on the left in the figure; its connections are dowel. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. IN mass production the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will be used in one piece for the large sidewalls, and another 1 piece for the smaller ones. The table on the right is quite possible to make with your own hands: the load-bearing frame is prefabricated; connections - in a tenon with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the tabletop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right corners.

... and we find ourselves in the kitchen

That's right. The kitchen table is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country tables. It should already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average size; the width of the place for 1 eater/rider is 60-80 cm depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. Aesthetic appearance very desirable, but not decisive: suddenly you messed up the decoration, that’s why the tablecloth. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, and resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; They are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in Fig. Factory-made table legs are usually equipped with height-adjustable heels. A table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the leg sockets with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% less than a completely purchased one, and in appearance it will not be inferior to it, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands to it, you can make steel legs with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of the branded legs are cast from rather fragile silumin, the fastenings weaken over time and need to be tightened. You can cut out the nests yourself from good steel, and weld the very legs into them.

In a larger kitchen, there may be room for a larger table. In such a case, follow up. rice. drawings kitchen table in rustic style. This table is “rustic” not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail or any metal fasteners. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing this, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will also have to assemble the panels for the sidewalls, but in this case the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

Table with round table top appropriate in any room if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is without a frame, which is very complex and labor-intensive, and is susceptible to splitting. Composite countertops made from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; Unlike laminate roundels, they are decorative, stylish, unique and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a finely-set countertop, but here the “broom law” comes into play. Not the American Senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion about it at home, but that broom that is used to sweep away trash. As you know, it is impossible to break it (the broom, not the senator) tied up, but even a child will break it twig by twig. So here, thanks to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, a tabletop assembled from them works like a solid slab, and after assembly you can cut it even “Zu”.

Note: The idea of ​​the senator-broom, sorry, Broom, was brought to mind by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world famous as Mark Twain: “I assert, and I undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more imagination than a bull. But not the bull that moos in the pasture, but the one that supports the bridge.”

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in the figure; On the right there are the tabletop dimensions and assembly order. And in Fig. Above on the right is a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business table. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; assembly with glue. Any round piece will fit on the tabletop, from a cut stump to a cardboard one, made using the method of making cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (200-piece board) or laminated chipboard.

Let's go further: to the living room

Table in main room at home should suit the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves costs on living space), the table should, for the time being, not be conspicuous and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most popular pieces of furniture these days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, despite all its transformations, remains a table and does not turn into a closet or bed - a table-bedside table; It is quite possible to make it yourself “from scratch”. There are 2 options that are most common here. On the left in Fig. – the table is unfoldable, it has a record ratio of occupied space in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully deployed (in the center), it will provide space for a fairly crowded banquet.

For a bachelor living in a small apartment, a folding table-bedside table, on the right in Fig. It's basically 2 small round ones. folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch with one folded one, because, unlike the previous option, there is somewhere to put your legs. And when you turn it around, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or intimate gatherings with friends.

All the above qualities are combined in transforming coffee and dining tables with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables, which are always tables, they mainly come down to 2 types: elevator (pantograph) and book. How they both work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although a lot depends on the quality of execution. Book lovers are more popular because a book-like mechanism can still be made independently, but an elevator outside production conditions is unlikely.

How the book-table unfolds is shown step by step in Fig. right. To make it yourself, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. Quite expensive branded designs use very softly operating gas dampers (gas lifts), but for an amateur it is better to opt for a spring damper, and not because gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the tabletop, underframe and the dead weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened/loosened; as a last resort, replace it. In general, an unsuccessful homemade transforming table with gas lifts can rarely be brought to fruition, but a spring table can almost always be brought to fruition. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in Fig. – drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the presence of drilling, turning and metal milling machines or access to them, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. Factory transformable coffee table Rarely does it cost less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.

The transforming table is made to fit the mechanism. One of the most popular are Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti mechanisms are produced in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. Other pos. in Fig. show the structure and dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, a normal family with children, friends and relatives cannot do without crowded gatherings at the table, and here a transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily due to the sliding mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the tabletop halves (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable when properly executed; in addition, you can make them yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic guides for full extension, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the table capacity by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with folding inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when moving the tabletop halves apart, the inserts are lifted, unfolded and put into place or put back into the underframe by a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for making at home.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular: by leaning forward (and how can this be avoided if the house has no servants?), we get the board back into the table and our portion of the treat - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Let us remember that the table is not always moved apart, and you can use an extension, but a solid table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of pictures below there is a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and see how it looks “alive” on the left in the picture. at the beginning.

In addition

You often want to paint a table, or any furniture, not just with stripes or paint it artistically. To protect the design from external influences and to ensure the possibility of renewing the varnish if necessary, the paint should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by rubbing paint in layers is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on glazing wood.

Video: master class on wood glazing

If you dream of having a good time on your personal plot, then you just need a large table that can accommodate a group of your friends and family. Moreover, you can do it with your own hands, spending very little time on it. In some cases you may need a helper, sometimes an extra pair of hands won't hurt.

This article provides detailed step-by-step instructions for making a wooden table for a summer house.

To give you a choice, we offer you four project options at once country table- two ordinary picnic tables, a table with benches, which are a single structural unit, and, finally, a round table. You should think through all the details in advance and choose the type and size of table that would suit your needs and the style of your garden plot.

Folding picnic tables - mobility comes first

Folding tables are very convenient, and most importantly practical and simple. They don't take up much space. At any moment, such a table can be neatly folded into the garage, and, if necessary, again moved outside. The mobility of furniture is especially appreciated in small areas.

How to make a garden wooden table with your own hands

A dacha is the place where a craftsman, a carpenter, a carpenter, a gardener, in general, a master, awakens in a person. Buy furniture for suburban area- it’s a simple matter, but to do it wooden table Not everyone can do it with their own hands. You should immediately be prepared for the fact that it will take you several days to make a garden table with your own hands. But the tips listed below will help you make a good-quality table yourself.

Today we will build a fairly simple country table with our own hands in the Provencal style. Such tables not only look great, but also have quite reliable design. It's worth paying attention to the boards. They must be even, since the appearance of our country table will directly depend on this.

When designing a table for a summer house, it is necessary to prepare lumber in three dimensions:

  • Supporting frame - section 38 x 90 mm.
  • Tabletop - section 38 X 140 mm.
  • Supporting strips - section 19 X 64 mm.
  1. Drawing

Before starting work, the most important thing is to find it on the Internet, or make your own drawings of a table for a summer house with your own hands. An accurate schematic designation will allow you to select lumber that will be most suitable in cross-section to the dimensions indicated on the diagram. It doesn’t matter if the dimensions don’t exactly match each other, because you can always make an adjustment using an electric planer.

  1. Preparation of material

When deciding how to make a garden wooden table, approach the issue responsibly, since the life of the furniture will depend on this:

  • purchase of blanks. Professionals advise purchasing lumber from coniferous trees, which was previously well dried. Its main advantages are:
    • price;
    • simplicity and ease of manual processing;
    • beautiful structure;
  • furniture glue;
  • 4 X 65 mm screws;
  • 3 mm drill;
  • drill;
  • tape measure, pencil, sandpaper.
  1. Next steps

We will need:

  • two upper transverse beams, dimensions 38 X 90 X 978 mm;
  • four legs for a country table with your own hands, size 38 X 90 X 695 mm;
  • two bowstrings - 38 X 90 X 921 mm;
  • one longitudinal lower and one upper beam - 38 X 90 X 1575 mm and 38 X 90 X 1473 mm, respectively;
  • two pieces of braces 38 X 90 X 772 mm;
  • blanks for the tabletop - seven pieces, measuring 38 x 90 x 2337 mm;
  • six support strips - 19 X 64 X 432 mm.

Advice: start work on a flat surface. It is extremely necessary to observe the joining angles of the parts. The blanks, which will later become the legs of our country table, should be cut on both sides at an angle of 10°. The cuts must be parallel. But the bowstring blanks, which are similarly cut at the same angle, should be cut one towards the other.

Stage 2. The legs of our country table should be attached to the cross beams and this entire structure should be fastened with screws. There are two screws for each connection.

We screw the string diagonally to the leg from the inside, in the same way fastening the structure with two screws.

The lower beam must be used to connect both strings to each other. As mentioned above, using screws.

Next, holes are first made in the upper longitudinal and transverse beams for fastener, called a dowel, after which we again diagonally connect the blanks of our country wooden table with the existing screws.

Tip: when connecting all the elements, use glue for additional strength. Remove excess immediately.

We place the braces on the screws.

Tip: blanks intended for braces should first be cut at an angle of 45 degrees

We fasten the blanks for the table top with screws to the cross beams with our own hands.


How to make a rectangular table for a garden

After developing a work plan and approving the drawings of the garden table, purchase all the materials needed for this project. Choose wood designed for outdoor use - pine, cedar, redwood or pressure-treated wood. When purchasing, check each board: they must be completely smooth and without any visible defects. Do not skimp on the quality of lumber, because your structure will have to withstand all weather adversity.

There are several important points, which you must take into account if you want the result to correspond to a high professional level. We must not forget about the accuracy of measurement and the use of professional tools when cutting boards and bars and drilling holes. To increase the reliability of the structure, you can additionally use waterproof glue to fasten the parts. Round open edges using a router or sandpaper.

Attention! Dimensions are based on the inch system and may not correspond to metric system measurements. Choose lumber that is as close in size as possible. Or just customize it yourself.

Tools required to implement the project:

  • hacksaw, jigsaw;
  • milling cutter;
  • drill and drill bits;
  • chalk cord, tape measure, spirit level, pencil;
  • safety glasses and gloves.

Time:

  • From one day to a week depending on the chosen project. If you have power tools at your disposal, you can finish the job even faster - in just a few hours.

Adviсe:

  • A router will help smooth the edges of wooden blocks and boards.
  • Before screwing in screws and self-tapping screws, drill pilot holes in the wooden structural elements.
  • The heads of the screws that are screwed in should not protrude above the wooden surface, and for this, the entrance parts of the holes must be countersunk.
  • Do not use cracked or warped lumber.
  • Do not use excessive force when tightening the screws, otherwise the wood may crack.

DIY picnic table. Step by step instructions

Materials:

  • A - Legs: 5x10 cm bars, 106 cm long (2 pcs.), 43 cm long (2 pcs.) and 56 cm long (2 pcs.);
  • B - Frame: bars 5x10 cm, length 87 cm (2 pcs.);
  • C - Tabletop: boards 5×15 cm, length 180 cm (6 pcs.);
  • D - Tabletop base: boards 5x15 cm, length 87 cm (2 pcs.), bars 5x10 cm, length 62 cm (2 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is making the table legs. Saw off the bars required sizes. To speed up the process, you can use a circular saw. Smooth the edges of the bars and cut lines with sandpaper.

Connect the bars to form an X-shaped structure and fasten them with 60 mm self-tapping screws, not forgetting to pre-drill the guide holes. Lubricate the joints with glue. Make sure there are no cracks or gaps.

Fasten each pair of legs with a horizontal block, using 60 mm self-tapping screws for this purpose. Cut off the ends of the bars as shown in the figure.

Place the boards intended for making the tabletop on a flat surface. We advise you to place pieces of 6 mm plywood between them, this will create uniform gaps. Place the assembled table sides on the tabletop and secure them by screwing in the self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 mm. Before fixing, make sure the legs and table top are perpendicular using a spirit level.

Place sawn pieces of 5x15 cm boards on the underside of the tabletop and secure them with 60 mm self-tapping screws.

Saw off the ends of the bars, which will serve as supports reinforcing the structure, at an angle of 45º. Place the supports in their place and secure them using 90 mm self-tapping screws screwed in at an angle.

And finally, last but not least: check that the heads of the screws do not protrude above the wooden surface, and fill all cracks and holes with wood putty.

Tip: To protect wood surfaces from the damaging effects of atmospheric moisture, cover them with several layers of exterior paint or stain.

Table with benches. Instructions with drawings

Materials:

  • A - Legs: bars 5x10 cm, length 95 cm (4 pcs.);
  • B - Crossbars: bars 5×10 cm, length 160 cm (2 pcs.);
  • C - Fastening the tabletop: 5×10 cm bars, 75 cm long (5 pcs.);
  • D - Inclined supports: bars 5x10 cm, length 84 cm (2 pcs.);
  • E - Tabletop: boards 5x10 cm, length 180 cm (14 pcs.).

You should start by making the legs. Since of this table the legs will be positioned obliquely, the ends of the 100 cm long bars should be cut at an angle of 30º. Connect the elements with 90 mm bolts.

Make sure the surface you are working on is fairly level. The mounted sides of the table must be identical, only in this case can you hope for an excellent final result.

When the sides of the table are ready, you can start making wooden table top. We recommend that you knock it together on the ground (floor), and then attach it to the legs using self-tapping screws.

Tip: Don't forget to make sure the side walls of the table are vertical using a spirit level, otherwise the end result of your work is unlikely to satisfy you.

Rigidly fix the entire structure using inclined supports. Their ends should first be cut at an angle of 26º.

Now all that remains is to build the benches. Saw off the boards of the required size, place them on both sides of the table and, having previously drilled several guide holes at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edges, secure them with self-tapping screws.

Tip: To ensure that the seat boards are evenly distributed, place nails or pieces of plywood between them before attaching them. Thanks to this little trick, all the gaps will be the same.

At the end of the work, pay attention to small but very important touches. Fill all cracks and holes with wood putty. After the putty has dried, sand the wood surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper.

Tip: Be sure to apply several coats of paint or stain to protect wood surfaces from exposure to water and sunlight.

Round table. We do it at the dacha on our own

Materials:

  • A - Base: 5×10 cm block 102.5 cm long (1 piece) and 47 cm long (2 pieces), 2.5×10 cm block 9 cm long (4 pieces);
  • B - Stands: bars 10×10 cm, length 60 cm (4 pcs.);
  • C - Tabletop base: 5x10 cm bars 82.5 cm long (1 pc.) and 52.5 cm long (2 pcs.), 2.5x10 cm bars 47.5 cm long (4 pcs.) and 60 cm long (2 pcs.) ;
  • D - Tabletop: boards 2.5×15 cm, length 195 cm (9 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is to create the table base. To connect its constituent elements, use waterproof glue and self-tapping screws. Make sure that the corners formed by the bars being connected are straight. To protect the assembled table base from rotting under the influence of rainwater, place it on small stands made from scrap 2.5x10 cm boards.

Now you need to attach four racks made from bars to the base square section. Before fixing, make sure they are vertical using a spirit level. The height of the legs may differ from that proposed by us; in this case, you should, first of all, be guided by your own needs.

The most difficult stage of the project is making the countertop. Place the boards on a flat surface and mark the center of the square. Secure one end of a 60 cm strip at this point. Rotate the other end of the staff to mark the outline of the circle. A jigsaw with a sharp blade will allow you to make circular cuts at a high professional level.

After cutting the boards of the future tabletop, we recommend that you fasten them together waterproof glue and additionally secure with several clamps. Attach the bars that serve as the base of the tabletop, as shown in the figure ( yellow elements should be made from 5x10 cm bars, green - from 2.5x10 cm bars).

Tip: To attach the bars to the tabletop, use waterproof glue and galvanized screws (30 mm self-tapping screws for fastening 2.5x10 cm bars and 50 mm for fastening 5x10 cm bars).

After the glue has dried, you should attach the legs to the base of the tabletop using 90 mm self-tapping screws, having previously drilled pilot holes. Use a spirit level to check the perpendicularity of the legs and tabletop.

To ensure that the result of your work corresponds to a high professional level, make sure that the heads of the screws are recessed deep enough. Cover all cracks and holes with wood putty, and after it dries, sand the surface with sandpaper.

Tip: Apply several coats of exterior paint or stain to protect the table from moisture damage. To ensure that the base stands are also untouched by water, place the table on concrete surface and seal them hermetically.

Now you know how to make a picnic table yourself. You just have to put in a little effort, which will subsequently be rewarded with enthusiastic exclamations from friends and pleasant summer evenings spent with your family at a large table.

A dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, to breathe fresh air and just have a fragrant drink herbal tea on the veranda at a do-it-yourself garden table. Such a table will not only add a special charm to such a simple ceremony, but will also become a source of pride for you and your loved ones.

Option 1. Table with legs

When choosing materials for a table, first of all you should pay attention to the quality of the wood - not all wood is suitable for use. Conifers, such as spruce and pine, are pliable and easy to work with, but such material without proper treatment is more flammable, and the resins released can ruin the tablecloth.


Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous; products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance.

Wood typeBrinell hardness)Density (kg/m3)StabilityColor trends
Birch3,0 600 averagethe color becomes deeper
Larch2,6 500 goodtakes on shades of gray
European oak3,7 700 goodthe color becomes deeper
4,0 700 averagelight to straw, yellowish brown
Pear3,3 680 averageblushes
Cherry3,0 580 goodfrom light pink to deep reddish hue

Materials and tools

For the interior design of dachas and country houses, long, narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to move freely around the room. This should be taken into account when preparing everything necessary for work and designing the table itself.

For the table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. Optimal length varies between 150-200 cm. You can purchase two ready-made wooden panels measuring 30-2000 mm.


Balusters or wooden beams for legs. Curly balusters will give homemade table industrial chic and luxurious look. And to make legs from timber, you need to choose boards with a minimum cross-section of 50x50 mm. A comfortable table height is ensured with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.


Other materials and tools.

  1. Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
  2. Wood putty.
  3. Screwdriver and screws for 30 and 50 mm.
  4. Sandpaper of various grits, as well as a holder.
  5. Clamps for fixing legs and table top.
  6. Electric drill.
  7. Grinding machine.
  8. Construction level.
  9. Square.
  10. Tape measure or centimeter.
  11. Marker.
  12. Glue.

Prices for various types of construction timber

Construction timber

Manufacturing stages


When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a plane, sander or coarse sandpaper to remove unevenness, remnants of cut knots, and clean out cracks. The boards must be even and smooth, so they are sanded on all sides, including the ends, edges and corners.

If it is intended to be manufactured as a solid panel without gaps, then it is better to purchase tongue-and-groove materials - this will create a stronger adhesion of the single sheet and save time on adjusting the elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the beams for the legs.


Assembling the frame for the tabletop

The frame helps to enhance the strength and stability of the table; its dimensions depend entirely on the parameters of the table top, but there are several general rules: both in length and width, the frame should be 30-25 cm smaller than the tabletop.

Video - DIY garden table



The frame itself is assembled from 4 boards that form the outer frame, and 6 internal transverse strips. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with 50 mm self-tapping screws. The joints are pre-coated with glue (PVA or wood glue). To prevent the boards from splitting, you can drill guide holes in them and only then screw in the screws.


Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the transverse strips, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the transverse strips are coated with glue, and the entire structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the heads of the screws do not protrude, but are completely “recessed” into the wood.



Table frame (production option)

The tabletop boards are connected, aligned with a tape measure and laid face down on the floor, the frame is placed on top so that the transverse planks lie tightly on the tabletop. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled into the planks, and all elements are tightened with 30 mm screws. There are 5-6 screws for each cross board.

Assembling the table legs


The tabletop is placed on a workbench or several stools for subsequent installation of legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled into the frame.



Before attaching the leg, glue is applied to the end of the block - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if desired, you can additionally use metal corners. Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws on the front side of the table, and square balusters are fixed with corner fasteners.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Finishing

After installing the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, the corners are sawed off along the radius with a jigsaw or the end is completely rounded. You can cut chamfers from the edges of the tabletop and sand everything thoroughly.


If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired using wood. It is better not to touch the screw heads so that the structure can be tightened.


After the final sanding, all dust and shavings are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.


Tables with elements of decoupage decor or single painting look beautiful and unusual. But hiding the beauty natural wood there is no need to put it under a layer of paint; modern varnishes and impregnations will do the job necessary work to protect the product from moisture.


Video - Table with legs for a summer house

Option 2. Tree stump table

An unusual and non-standard way to arrange a personal space is to create interior items from natural materials. When landscaping an area, trees that are old or that threaten buildings are often cut down. If your dacha has or had just such a tree, then you definitely won’t have any problems finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.


Materials and tools

To make such a fantasy table from a stump you will need very little:

  • wood for the tabletop, the recommended thickness of the tabletop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards you need to adhere to the rule “the larger the tabletop, the larger the cut of the board”;
  • stump. For the work you will need a dried stump of any type of tree, the main thing is that the wood is intact, not damp or rotten. If the tree was cut down recently, the stump needs to be dried thoroughly. And it’s better to do this by placing the stump in a warm dry room or outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that several weeks is not enough time for proper drying. As a rule, the entire process takes at least two months. You can determine the condition of the wood by the ease of removing the bark - if the bark comes off without effort, then you can start working;
  • water-based wood varnish in a natural shade or transparent. It is this composition that will best emphasize the texture and advantages of natural wood;
  • sandpaper of various grains and holder;
  • plane or sander;
  • chisel;
  • building level;
  • roulette;
  • hammer and nails;
  • screwdriver and screws;
  • abrasive fiber.

Manufacturing stages


Stage 1.

The dried blank of the future table must be cleared of bark. A chisel or chisel will be useful for this step. The bark must be removed with extreme caution and precision so as not to damage the wood and prevent cracks and splits from appearing. Any soft or rotten areas should also be removed.




Stage 2.

After the bark has been removed, the stump must be leveled relative to the horizontal plane. To do this, use a level to prepare a flat surface, and place the base of the future table on it.

If curvature is observed, the imperfections are eliminated using a plane. At the same stage of work, excessively large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawed off with a hacksaw, the sections from which are then sanded.


Stage 3.

The leveled stump is sanded with a disk grinder, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also sanded, and hard-to-reach places are treated with coarse sandpaper. This is a rather labor-intensive process that requires a significant amount of time.


Stage 4.

Cracks and depressions in the barrel must be cleaned of dirt and debris using a chisel, then sandpaper folded in half (with the working layer facing outward) should be carefully processed from the inside. Remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a construction vacuum cleaner.

Stage 5.



To prevent the stump from rotting and ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of legs will make moving the table more convenient.

You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized stands. It is best to attach them using self-tapping screws to the base of the stump; the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.


Stage 6.

After installing the legs, we proceed to sheathing the top of the stump. To do this, we put two parallel strips perpendicularly on the sidewalls, and two more rows of holders on top - a total of 6 strips, fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the tabletop.

Stage 7.


We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below with transverse strips. The shape of the tabletop can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. A table option with a round or oval tabletop looks more advantageous.


To give this shape, you can use homemade device from thread, pencil and nail: the end of the thread is tied around a pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the tabletop, outlining a circle with a selected radius, after which all excess is sawed off, and the edges and surface of the tabletop are processed with a grinding machine.



Stage 8.

Holes and defects in the boards can be decorated with finely chopped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and after drying, sanding them again to smooth the surface.

The finished tabletop is fixed from below to the sheathing with holders on nails or self-tapping screws selected to size.


The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent the varnish from peeling off, and subsequent layers will lay down more evenly.


After removing the dust, apply the second and subsequent layers of varnish without grouting. If desired, after drying, the last layer can be treated with abrasive fiber - this will remove excess shine and give the surface a matte finish.

Such creative table will decorate any veranda, especially in a pleasant frame of green bushes or flower beds.



Prices for paints and varnishes

Paint and varnish materials

Video - DIY garden table made from a stump

Beech is quite often used by furniture manufacturers, as it is a hard wood that is quite ductile and durable. In terms of strength, beech is not inferior to oak. Compared to oak, beech is cheaper. The color of such wood can range from reddish-brown to pinkish-yellow.

  • has high decorative qualities;
  • dries quickly;
  • easy to process.
  • afraid of humidity;
  • poorly polished.

Oak is a hard wood with great strength. Natural color oak ranges from yellowish-white to yellowish-brown with a slight tinge of gray or green. Oak has a number of other advantages - it is very easy to use, easy to glue, practically does not rot and has a beautiful appearance.

  • despite the high viscosity of wood, it is processed quite well;
  • bends easily;
  • resistant to rotting;
  • lends itself well to artificial aging techniques.
  • price;

Ash wood is harder than oak. The color of the wood is light and gently golden. Most often it is used in the manufacture of bent and carved furniture or as veneer.

  • bends well after steaming;
  • cracks little when dried;
  • When bleached, it acquires an unusual shade of gray hair.
  • in humid conditions, wood is quickly damaged by wormholes;
  • poorly polished.

Aspen is deciduous tree. It belongs to the Poplar genus. This is a very large tree, it grows up to 30 meters in height and can easily reach a thickness of 1 meter. Since it grows very quickly, it produces a lot of wood.

  • very high moisture resistance;
  • the ability to retain heat, but not give it away;
  • bactericidal (you can place such furniture in a children's room without fear that it will cause harm).
  • not very presentable appearance;
  • the possibility of darkening, both partially and completely;
  • You should be wary that the product may begin to rot from the inside.

Pine is a soft wood that is most often used in the manufacture of frames for upholstered or cabinet furniture. The main advantage of this type of wood is its high resistance to rot, humidity and temperature changes. In addition, pine is one of the most common and affordable materials.


  • ease of processing;
  • easy to glue;
  • a pleasant medicinal smell that releases phytoncides.
  • Easily scratched and damaged.

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