Category: Insects in the garden. Harmful and beneficial insects
Among the huge number of insect species that exist on the planet, there are many that benefit humans. If you rank the most useful insects, then the top ten will look like in the following way:
- Bee.
These insects pollinate plants, providing high yields of cereals, vegetables, fruits and berries. Of great importance for a person is honey, which in the old days was called the food of the gods. In various fields, propolis, bee venom, royal jelly, and wax are actively used.
- Ladybug.
These brightly colored representatives of the beetle family destroy aphids, psyllids and some other dangerous pests of cultivated plants. Ladybugs are harmless creatures, they do not bite or sting.
- Silkworm.
Long domesticated, the butterfly plays an important economic role. The silkworm is used in the production of natural silk. Dried caterpillars have been used in Chinese traditional medicine.
- Centipede.
Centipedes, not very attractive in appearance, are the most useful insects that can live in houses and apartments. These small predators feed on other insects: cockroaches, flies, moths, silverfish.
- Common ground beetle.
This species, which is part of the beetle family, brings invaluable benefits to gardeners and gardeners. Adults and larvae of the ground beetle destroy harmful insects, caterpillars, slugs.
- Hoverfly.
Among the beneficial insects that live in gardens and kitchen gardens, it is worth noting the hoverfly, which looks like a small wasp. The larvae of these insects feed on aphids.
- Rider.
- Dragonfly.
Beautiful insects that delight children with their appearance feed on mosquitoes, midges and some other small pests. Dragonflies catch them in flight.
- Forest ant.
These insects destroy caterpillars, beetles and other pests. Forest ants are often referred to as orderlies. In addition, ants are able to improve soil structure, accelerate the decomposition of plant residues.
- Grasshopper.
The insect, which is sung in the famous children's song, feeds on small pests of plants, thereby providing benefits. In many Asian countries, grasshoppers are eaten. Grasshoppers are prevented from taking a place above tenth in the ranking by the fact that some species of this insect feed on cultivated plants.
In nature, there are many other insects that bring one or another benefit to humans. Unfortunately, a huge number of representatives of this class are pests. With harmful insects it is difficult to fight on your own. If you need to destroy cockroaches, fleas, domestic ants, bedbugs and other pests, then contact Dezsluzhba Grand Service for help. Our experts will quickly relieve you of these problems. We guarantee a 100% result in the fight against insects!
To harmful insects include those that reduce crops (and sometimes quite significantly), destroy materials, houses and cause damage to warehouses, carry diseases of people and animals, etc. In general, there are not so many pests, according to some estimates, only one species out of a hundred.
The life of insects is constantly full of dangers, therefore they resort to the most diverse methods of adaptation in the field of various protection or disguise. In these matters, Nature "tried"! Judge for yourself - some insects strikingly merge with leaves, branches, flowers, stones, others - freeze like statues, pretending to be dead, still others - can jump, clicking like a click beetle, while scaring the enemy, fourth - release a poisonous or foul-smelling liquid, by the way, they are usually brightly colored to warn the enemy who they have to deal with! Insects can also actively defend themselves: bite, prick, sting. In some hairy caterpillars, the hairs contain poisonous substances, more precisely, they are equipped with vials of poison, and when the skin is pierced, they break and cause a burn.
But the most important thing, perhaps, is what saves insects from all kinds of environmental factors, including chemicals, insecticides, man-made to fight them, it is high fecundity and speed of reproduction.
Flies and mosquitoes
Most often attract the attention of people mosquitoes and flies. The needle-shaped tube of mosquitoes is the "mouth" of the mosquito. It is with this sharp needle that the insect pierces the skin of the victim and sucks blood. Only females are bloodsuckers, they need blood for the development of future offspring, the normal functioning of the gonads, and males - harmless creatures - feed on nectar and plant sap. With insect saliva secreted to prevent blood clotting, pathogens can enter the victim's body.
In a house fly, the mouth organs look like a short proboscis; it cannot pierce human skin. But, having refreshed herself somewhere, she sits down on the table, on dishes, etc., burps up a drop of her lunch and sucks it back in. Millions of bacteria remain in the remaining speck, in particular, the causative agents of more than 30 infectious diseases.
The lifespan of a mosquito is two to three weeks. But this is in the adult state in which we are used to seeing him. But before that, for a day or two, an egg laid by a mosquito floated on the surface of a pond, swamp, puddle, grew in the form of a larva for a week or two, and an unusual mosquito chrysalis hung upside down under the surface water film for another two or three days.
Eggs, larvae and pupae of mosquitoes are excellent food for fish, adults in many go to feed the birds.
Another positive role of mosquitoes in biogeocenosis is participation in the movement of certain elements. It turns out that mosquitoes in their tiny body accumulate up to 15 chemical elements(during the development of the larva in the water, it accumulates them in its body), all this ends up on land - where the mosquitoes die in the end. There are a lot of mosquitoes in the tundra and taiga, and, perhaps, the main suppliers of microelements to the soil are precisely ... mosquitoes. Mosquito swarms form males. Mosquito swarms up to 7 km long were observed. A swarm of males circles over one point, buzzes, females fly to the sound, the formed pairs leave the swarm.
Mosquitoes pounce most of all on sweaty people, on children. Persons older than fifty are less likely to be bitten. The squeak of a mosquito is not a “song”, but the sound of flapping mosquito wings, the frequency reaches more than 150 strokes per second. To protect against mosquitoes, various anti-mosquito ointments, liquids, aerosols are used: DEET, Taiga, Off, Antignus, etc. It is impossible to work in the taiga without repellents - agents that repel mosquitoes and other blood-sucking animals.
But there are also beneficial insects, for example: ants.
Ants
Those who walk through the forest, no, no, yes, and they will meet an anthill. Its height can exceed 2 m, and the number of inhabitants reaches 1 million. Ants are social insects, they jointly build dwellings, raise offspring, store food, hunt; the relationships in their family are very complex, there are clear, instinctively fixed divisions of labor in it: there is one “queen”, there are worker ants, soldier ants, nurse ants, cleaner ants, scout ants, watchmen, porters, ants- miners, etc. Ants have very poor eyesight, but their sense of touch and smell are excellent. They find their way along the "fragrant" paths.
Ants live up to 5-7 years, the "queen" of the anthill - up to 15. Useful in that they protect plants from harmful insects. Experts believe that five anthills are enough for 1 hectare of forest to protect trees from pest invasion.
Anthills have a stable temperature and humidity, along with ants, some spiders, ticks, centipedes, beetles, and crickets live in them. In places of mass recreation, anthills are usually few. They are destroyed at various works, often ruined by vacationers.
A resident of the edges and forest glades is the May Khrushchev. The female of this beetle lays eggs in the soil. The larvae emerging from the eggs first feed on dead plant remains, then move on to living roots, detecting them by the excreted roots. carbon dioxide. In the third, and in the north in the fourth year of life, the larva pupates, at the end of summer an adult beetle appears from the pupa, but it remains in the ground until spring.
The May Khrushchev develops a speed of up to 180 m per minute, making almost 3,000 wing beats during this time. It always flies in a straight line, the flight altitude is from 6 to 100 m. In good weather, it is able to make 20-kilometer flights. With mass reproduction, May beetles and their larvae can destroy forest plantations, nurseries, plantations, and young gardens over a large area.
Many insects attract attention unusual view. For example, the stag beetle. His horns are similar to those of a real deer, but unlike them, they are strongly overgrown upper jaws. By the way, despite their impressive size, they are rather weak, the female has smaller horns, but she can bite them until she bleeds.
Like other insects, the stag beetle begins its life journey from an egg laid in a rotten core of a tree. The larva pupates in the fourth year, after a month a beetle appears from the pupa. He does not live long. The only food of deer beetles is the juice flowing from cracks or wounds in the bark of an oak, pear, which begins to ferment, and ants, wasps, butterflies, and flies gather on its smell. Stag beetles lick the juice, feast on it for several hours.
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Insect pests of plants are a real scourge of the garden. What measures are not taken by experienced growers to protect their plantings! Unfortunately, most methods of struggle turn out to be useless, and all because each pest needs its own “approach” - it’s enough to collect some with your hands, and you can’t do without pesticides to destroy others.
Just like people, plants can get sick. In addition, there are also numerous insect pests of plants - lovers of feasting on leaves, roots, buds and flowers. And the gardener becomes very hurt and hurt when his pets suffer from diseases and pests. How to protect the garden? The main thing - proper care, and a healthy plant can already stand up for itself. It is not difficult to deal with many pests of cultivated plants if measures are taken in time, but if this is not done through ignorance or negligence, then it will be much more difficult to defeat this scourge.
For successful control of plant pests, "enemies" need to be known in person. It is equally important to have an idea about the nature of the damage that this or that pest causes, since thrips cannot be seen without a magnifying glass, the slug hides for a day in secluded places, and many, having eaten to satiety, fly away.
You can find photos and names of plant pests, as well as their description and the most effective methods of control on this page.
Click beetle damages many flower plants, including tulips, poppies, gladioli. This is a small pest 1.5-2.5 cm long, black in color, there are striped individuals. Distributed everywhere, but most numerous and harmful on wet soils.
As you can see in the photo, the larvae of plant pests, known as the "wireworm", are narrow, long, consisting of segments, with a very dense yellow or brown shell:
They live in the ground and damage the bulbs or roots of plants, eating holes and passages in them. Fungi, bacteria settle in the damage, and the plant dies over time. For the winter, insects and larvae hide deep in the soil; in spring, when the soil warms up, they rise up.
hoverfly, or a large daffodil fly. Its larvae cause great harm to bulbs, hyacinths, and can also damage gladiolus corms, rhizomes. Larvae about 1 cm long overwinter in bulbs. These pests of plant roots eat away the bottom, and the bulb becomes soft. In the spring, weak plants with ugly, quickly yellowing leaves are formed from the affected bulbs, flowering usually does not occur. With a strong defeat, the entire inside of the bulb turns into a black rotting mass.
Root onion mite harms bulbous plants - daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, lilies, and also damages gladiolus corms and dahlia tubers. The tick is dangerous, both during the growing season and during the storage of planting material. These insect pests of cultivated plants remain in the soil on plant residues and quickly penetrate into the bulbs planted in the ground through the bottom or mechanical damage, but healthy plants can also be affected. planting material. Pests settle between the scales and feed on juice, wear out the bottom, which becomes loose and easily peels off. At the same time, the plants develop poorly, turn yellow, wither, and with a strong colonization of the bulbs by mites, they do not germinate at all. The adult has a convex oval body up to 1 mm in size, light yellow in color, with four pairs of legs. The larvae are smaller. Females lay up to 800 eggs in bulbs. A week later, larvae appear, which develop and feed inside the bulbs within a month. Adult mites and their larvae make numerous moves, as a result of which the spent bulb can turn into dust. The pest loves heat and moisture. At humidity below 60%, the development of mites stops, they lose their mobility and go into a dormant stage. In this state, they can be long time. It is very difficult to destroy the pest.
Iridescent and winter scoops - dangerous pests bearded and, especially, Siberian irises. At the beginning of the growing season, the scoop caterpillars eat out the bases of the peduncles, and they turn yellow and dry out. These pests garden plants it is not possible to “cut off” the powerful flower stalks of tall bearded irises, however, the damage they cause is sufficient for the flower stalks to be knocked down by the wind. In addition, caterpillars can also damage rhizomes, which are then easily affected by bacterial rot. In dry summers, planting irises are affected by scoops to a greater extent. Scoop caterpillars also harm bulbous plants, gnawing holes in the bulbs and eating the roots. Plants often die.
May beetle, or May beetle. This large red-brown beetle eats irregularly shaped holes on the leaves in May-June. This plant pest got its name because the years of beetles begin in May. It is dangerous for plants not so much by itself as by its thick curved larvae, more than 2.5 cm long. For several years, the larvae develop in the soil, gnawing and damaging roots or bulbs. As a result, the plant weakens and may die. In large numbers, larvae are found in organic residues, manure.
What are the main pests of cultivated bulbous plants
What other insect pests of cultivated plants cause great damage to garden plantings?
gall nematode- one of the main pests of plants, including viola, daffodils. It is a microscopic worm, invisible to the naked eye. Adult males are up to 1.5 mm long, their body shape is filiform. The females of these pests garden plants have a pear-shaped body up to 1.3 mm long. The female lays up to 400 eggs. The larvae develop in galls - swellings on the roots of plants. Roots damaged by the gall nematode are not able to provide the plant with sufficient nutrition and water. Plants are stunted and do not bloom. Often the roots rot due to the entry of pathogens into the galls. From the galls, the pests pass into the soil and penetrate into the small roots of other plants, which also stop growing, turn yellow and often die. The gall nematode spreads better on light soils. Pests bring big losses and bulbous plants. The larvae feed on the juice of leaves and stems, and then pass into the bulb. It softens, brown rings are visible on the transverse section, the so-called "ring rot". Affected plants become smaller, the leaves turn yellow and swellings are visible on them. The development of plants is delayed, they bloom poorly, and die if severely damaged. These pests bulbous plants penetrate into healthy planting material when planting in contaminated soil, as well as during storage. If the damage reaches the bottom and extends to the rest of the scales, the bulb dies.
thrips clouds hover over their favorite "food" - gladioli and irises, leaving silver spots on flowers and leaves. The buds do not bloom well, and with severe damage, the inflorescence does not form at all. Hot and dry summers are favorable for pest reproduction. Up to 9 generations of thrips develop during the season in the southern regions. The pest can also damage planting material in storage. Thrips are especially active at temperatures above 10 °C. A sign of thrips damage is shiny crusts on corms, bulbs, or tubers. Thrips, when there are many of them, can cause great harm and even destroy planting material during storage. Thrips damages irises, gladioli, clematis, roses, less often dahlias and other crops. Small, about 1.5 mm long, barely visible to the naked eye, insects cause significant damage to garden plants. Thrips settles in the axils of the leaves. The upper surface of the leaves, damaged by many injections, acquires a silver sheen. With a large accumulation of pests, the leaves are covered with small black spots of insect excrement. As a result of severe damage, the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off, which adversely affects the development of the whole plant, the laying of peduncles and flowers.
Medvedka(top, cabbage, earth cancer). The pest poses a serious threat to tulips and gladioli, not averse to nibbling bulbs and other flowers. Dangerous for irises, especially in the southern regions. It can completely destroy newly planted seedlings of flyers.
Pay attention to the photo - this insect pest of plants in length reaches from 3.5 to 5 cm:
It has wings, strong movable horny jaws, strong front claws, equipped with a nail file-toothed to make it easier to dig passages in the ground. When moving in one direction, the nail file folds up and forms the sharpest spear, and in the other direction it opens at a certain angle like a saw blade and cuts the soil, and with it the roots, tubers, and bulbs. The pest easily travels underground, swims quickly in water and flies through the air. Crawling to the surface of the ground, it moves quite quickly. The "uniform" of the insect is durable, waterproof. The pest is endowed with a very subtle sense of smell. It causes the greatest harm on loose fertilized soils and in warm areas, where it can multiply in large quantities.
What do mass pests of garden plants look like?
The cabbage scoop is polyphagous. Caterpillars damage various crops. Of the flowers, daffodils, tulips, gladiolus, and dahlias are most often damaged. This is a dark brown butterfly with a wingspan of up to 5 cm. The pupae hibernate in the soil. According to the description, this insect pest looks like a moth. Butterfly flight begins in May-June and lasts for a long time. During the season, one female lays up to 1500 eggs per bottom surface leaves. After 2-3 weeks, caterpillars come out of them. During their development, they cause significant damage to flowering plants, gnawing holes in leaves and buds.
Khrushchi. Golden bronze and garden beetle - small beetles that eat stamens, pistils and flower petals, penetrate into buds. Because of this, the flowers become ugly, often in the form of one half.
Scoop leaf-eating- a butterfly with a wingspan of up to 3.5-4.5 cm. The front wings are yellow-brown with kidney-shaped, wedge-shaped and round shape, rear fenders are white. The caterpillars of this mass plant pest are up to 5 cm long, light green or brown-brown, with even rows of white spots with a black rim all over the body, with a bright yellow side stripe and three pale narrow ones along the back. Caterpillars feed at night, eating the petals, and during the day they hide in the depths of the flower, so they are difficult to notice.
cabbage moth- small butterfly Its years begin in the second half of May. Butterflies lay 2-4 eggs on the underside of leaves. One female can lay up to 150 eggs or more. Cabbage moth gives up to 4 generations. Very mobile, light green caterpillars with sparse hairs hatch from eggs. They eat the upper epidermis and the pulp of the leaves, leaving the lower epidermis intact, which dries up and breaks. They also eat buds and flowers.
Aphid- the most common pests of cultivated plants in the garden. Great damage is done to ornamental shrubs (viburnum, mock orange, euonymus). Small insects ranging in size from 1 to 2.5 mm have different colors: light and dark green, black, orange, reddish. Insects and their larvae settle on various parts of plants: young shoots, leaves, buds and flowers. By sucking out cell sap, they retard the growth of plants, cause deformation of leaves, peduncles, buds do not open. The leaves are covered with sticky honeydew. Aphids can settle on sweet secretions sooty mushrooms. Plants lose their decorative effect. During the season, aphids can give up to 17 generations; the pest breeds especially well in warm weather. When storing bulbs of tulips and gladioli, colonies of green aphids may appear under the outer scales. Damaged bulbs subsequently give weakened shoots.
Crop pests and disease vectors
Meadow bug. A rather large sucking insect with a length of b mm causes damage mainly to young shoots, leaves and buds. The body of the bug is light or dark green, covered with black dots, the stripes on the sides and the tip of the abdomen are also black. Adult insects are winged, larvae are wingless, very similar to aphids. The larvae can make jumps and easily avoid danger when spraying the buds. The female lays her eggs in the apical buds of plants. The hatched larvae pierce the delicate skin of young leaves and buds and suck the juice from them. Damaged cultures grow ugly, with deformed inflorescences. This insect pest of plants is a carrier of diseases, including viral ones.
Naked slugs. The pest is polyphagous, damages a wide variety of flower plants, attacks vegetable crops. Naked slugs are gastropods, have a gray, brown or light yellow elongated, fusiform, mucus-covered body. In wet years, slugs multiply strongly and cause significant damage to plants. They eat oblong holes on the leaves, can eat flowers and young shoots, damage the bulbs. Slugs are nocturnal, during the day they hide under lumps of earth, large leaves, and in other secluded places. The presence of a pest is indicated by the appearance of silvery mucus on the leaves. Leaf-eating caterpillars do not leave such traces. In dense plantings are created favorable conditions for pest propagation. Like the onion bug, these insect pests of cultivated plants are carriers of diseases, in particular, bacteriosis.
Danger for ornamental garden mammals can also represent: moles, mice, rats, hares.
Look at the photo what plant pests look like - now you can recognize the “enemies in the face”:
How to protect plants from pests: ways to fight
Sometimes plants suffer less from pests and diseases than from ignorance and laziness of flower growers themselves. A careless gardener can destroy his plantings at a speed that even locusts would envy.
How to protect plants from pests and prevent hordes of insects from spreading around the site? In order for crops to develop and bloom well, it is necessary to choose the right place for planting, prepare the soil well, acquire healthy planting material and, finally, strictly follow the rules of care.
But insect pests also want to live and eat deliciously, so they rush into the gardens in slender and not very slender rows. Each region has its own specifics depending on climatic and weather conditions. In some areas there is no life from a pirating bear, someone has “devoured” everything tripe, somewhere enemy number one is bacteriosis.
An experienced florist, taking measures to combat plant pests, begins his day in the garden with an inspection of the crops. If during the next “contemplation” he notices twisted and perforated leaves, twisted shoots, mutilated buds and flowers, he will immediately understand that pests have attacked the garden. If there are few of them, you can simply pick them off with your hands or rinse with a stream of water. But if you miss this moment, a few pests will turn into hundreds and thousands, and nothing will remain of your flowers.
Remember following rules how to deal with insect pests on the site:
1. The problem is easier to prevent than to eliminate.
2. If the "invasion" has begun, do not put off the fight for an hour.
3. The devil is not so terrible as he is painted. In a single garden, it is unlikely that you will encounter more than three to five varieties of uninvited "guests".
To calm down this gang of "robbers", do not immediately grab the pesticides. There is no need to panic if you find harmful insects on plants in a small amount - slugs can be picked off with your hands, aphids can be washed off with a stream of water. Whether pests turn into a natural disaster that can only be dealt with with the help of “chemistry” largely depends on the condition of the plants and weather conditions. For example, plants weakened by lack of light become easy prey for sucking insects. Thrips multiply excessively in dry and hot weather. The task of the gardener is to do everything so that the plants are strong and healthy, because such plants are too tough for pests.
In addition, uninvited garden guests have natural enemies. There is a balance in nature: every pest has at least one opponent. Ladybugs, lacewings, predatory hover flies and silver flies are enemies of aphids. They do not refuse from leaf-eating caterpillars. Ladybugs and their larvae can destroy up to 150 aphids per day. Other beneficial insects - ichneumons - lay their eggs in living caterpillars, and their larvae eat the caterpillars alive from the inside. And, of course, birds relentlessly devour harmful bugs and caterpillars. Hedgehogs perfectly destroy the larvae of the beetle.
How to deal with insect pests: plant protection methods
In order not to disturb the natural balance, try to give preference to such means of controlling plant pests that would not harm beneficial insects and birds. The main thing in protecting plants from pests is the system preventive measures: It is easier to prevent a disease than to treat it. The main role is given to plant care activities, from the purchase of planting material to wintering or laying in storage.
Cultural rotations prevent the accumulation of pathogens and pests in the soil and create conditions for the normal growth and development of plants. It is known that nasturtium, mustard, calendula, which release volatile substances, help cleanse the soil from infection. Therefore, planting bulbs is recommended to alternate with these summers. Plants are returned to their original site after 5-6 years.
How else to deal with plant pests in the garden? An important point is soil preparation. On poorly drained, humus-poor soil, plants are more likely to get sick, grow weak and be attacked by pests. Before laying the flower garden, the site must be cleared of debris: branches, stones, chips, etc. Deep digging of the soil in the flower garden in the fall will help get rid of the larvae and eggs of harmful insects wintering in it (scoops, wireworms, earwigs). When using or manure, you need to be careful not to bring into the flower garden May beetle, which often settles in compost heaps. The larvae must be carefully selected and destroyed; you can feed them to chickens. Seedling boxes must be disinfected annually (with a solution of potassium permanganate or boiling water), and the ground in them must be changed (it is better to use ready-made mixtures for seedlings).
For most ornamental plants more suitable are areas with light, loose soils. Heavy acidic soils that promote the spread of fungal infections are limed. To do this, fluff lime is applied in the fall at the rate of 100-200 g per 1 m2.
If you have purchased healthy planting material, then there will be much less problems. Therefore, it is better to make purchases in specialized stores. Try to avoid dense plantings, in such conditions the plants lack nutrition and excessive moisture appears, which also leads to the reproduction of pests and pathogens. It is necessary to systematically remove weeds, as they are a reservoir for many diseases and pests. In addition, they thicken plantings and compete with cultivated plants for nutrients.
They often become a haven for pests. plant remains(leaves, stems, fallen flowers). You can not leave garbage near the plants. Carefully rake it with a rake and destroy it.
What to do if pests appear in the garden
But what if the pests still settled in your garden? Many insects can be destroyed mechanically. Beetles (bronzovka, May beetle) are collected and destroyed, and the affected buds are cut off. Aphids are washed off with a stream of water. Scoop caterpillars, click beetles and their larvae are selected when digging the soil. An excellent way to control plant pests such as click beetles and their larvae (wireworms) is to lay out baits (potato tubers). Pests drill passages in the tubers and linger in them for a while. The bait is collected and destroyed.
Baits are also used to protect plants from insect pests such as slugs. Near the plants in the aisles, bunches of dill, burdock leaves, boards, pieces of slate, wet rags are laid out, under which pests accumulate during the day. Then the pests are collected and destroyed.
From slugs, dusting the soil around the plants with superphosphate, a mixture of ash and quicklime, and shag dust helps. This should be done in the evening or early morning when the slugs are on the surface of the soil. But still the most effective remedy fight against - metaldehyde. Granules are scattered in places where slugs accumulate under plants (4 g per 1 m2).
There are many methods for protecting plants from bear pests:
1. Collect more eggshells during the winter, grind into powder. In the spring, during planting, moisten the powder with vegetable oil for smell and put 1 tsp in the wells. Medvedka, having tasted the bait, dies.
2. Pour earthen passages of the pest soapy water(4 tablespoons of washing powder in a bucket of water). Medvedka either dies underground, or crawls out to the surface, where it is easy to collect and destroy.
3. One more effective method how to deal with bear pests - plant marigolds along the boundaries of the site. This will prevent the insect from entering your garden from the neighboring area.
4. You can get rid of the bear with the help of infusion of chicken manure, watering the ground with it in dry weather.
5. In autumn, in the places where the bear lived, they dig trapping holes 0.5 m deep and fill them with fresh manure. The pits are located at a distance of 5 m from each other. A hill of earth is poured over the hunting pits and marked with a peg. When the cold comes and snow falls, they find the places of trapping holes by pegs and throw manure out of them to the surface. Medvedki, hiding in manure for the winter, die in the cold.
A selection of photos "Pest Control" will help you choose the most affordable way plant protection in your area:
Plants that protect against pests in the garden
If you want to enjoy the scent of flowers rather than pesticides in your garden, it's best to use insecticidal plants to control pests. Infusions and decoctions from these plants, which protect against pests, practically do not pose a danger to humans, as well as to birds, hedgehogs, etc. They relatively quickly lose their toxic properties and do not accumulate in the soil and plants.
Wild and cultivated insecticidal plants are collected in dry, clear weather, dried in the shade. Later stored in a dark, well-ventilated area. You can prepare decoctions and infusions and immediately after collecting the plants.
After infusion or boiling, the liquid is filtered through a double layer of gauze or burlap. If the concentrated broth is drained hot and tightly corked, it can be stored in a cool room for up to 2 months. Before use, the broth is diluted to the required concentration.
When treated with infusions and decoctions of plants from pests in the garden, insects die within 3 days. After 4-6 days, the treatment must be repeated to consolidate the result.
Many flower growers plant insecticidal plants (calendula, garlic, onions) in separate groups for preventive purposes.
Tips for summer residents
All garden pests and methods of dealing with them (detailed instructions)
The season is coming! The season is not only gardening, but also mosquito, fly and gadfly ...))) Yes, soon in all gardens of the country we will endure the bites of mosquitoes, gadflies and annoying flies!
It is known that it is possible to fight all pests with chemistry, but
- firstly, it is harmful to our health,
- secondly, it is harmful to the environment,
- thirdly, in such a struggle we exterminate beneficial insects
So what to do? And there is a way out! Nature has thought of everything for us a long time ago! The main thing is to learn to read the Book of Nature!
We consider many plants to be weeds and as a result, the more well-groomed the site, the more pests. And Nature has long taken care of this and solved the problem. Green pharmacy, not only heals, but also has repellent properties.
Plants containing certain specific substances are called repellents.. Phytoncides, released into the environment, have a depressing or irritating effect on certain animals.
As a result, many pests "without a fight" leave the occupied territory and go in search of a better life.
The best way to expel pests is to plant the most suitable repellents next to the cultivated plants.
The role of plants - repellents!
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First of all, these plants act as protectors! They protect our gardens and gardens, as soon as they are planted in certain areas of our gardens. Who are they protecting from?
From the whitefly
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Effective infusion of garlic. Chopped garlic cloves (150-170 g) pour 1 liter of water and insist in a tightly sealed container for five days.
For spraying, 6 g of concentrate diluted in 1 liter of water is enough. Keep in mind that folk remedies can help if there are not too many pests.
It is more effective to plant nearby repellent plants: nasturtium, peppermint, thyme, bitter wormwood.
From white cabbage
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10 g of white mustard powder is infused for two days in 1 liter of water, filtered and before spraying, bring 200 ml of the solution to a volume of 1 liter
Chamomile infusion and hellebore infusion give good results. For 10 liters of water, take either 1 kg of raw, or 500 g of semi-dry, or 100-250 g of dry hellebore.
This solution is infused for about two days or boiled for 30 minutes. A decoction or infusion is filtered and used for spraying.
It is more effective to plant nearby repellent plants: celery, tomatoes, peppermint, sage, bitter and medicinal wormwood.
From the cabbage caterpillar
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repellent plants: onion, sage, tansy, thyme, medicinal wormwood, nasturtium.
From an earthen flea
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when fleas appear, the plants are pollinated using sifted wood ash, tobacco dust (in equal proportions) by dew.
And one more recipe for an old, undeservedly forgotten means of dealing with a wide variety of insects:
In an enameled or metal vessel with a capacity of at least 5 liters, boil 1-2 liters of water, dissolve 200 grams of laundry or green soap in it and bring to a boil, after which 200 grams of kerosene are added.
The mixture is forced to boil two or three times, removing from heat when it rises in foam above the level of the dish. The resulting emulsion concentrate is diluted with warm (30-40 °) water to 10 liters.
But it is more effective: plant repellent plants nearby: catnip, peppermint, bitter and medicinal wormwood, tobacco, tansy, head and leaf lettuce.
From the five-point hawk
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good results gives an infusion of calendula and peppermint. For 10 liters of water, take either 1 kg of raw or 500 g of a semi-dry mixture of plants.
But it is more effective to plant nearby repellent plants: dill, borage, basil.
From colorado potato beetle
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for successful use folk remedies and methods of dealing with the Colorado potato beetle, it is necessary to fulfill a number of simple requirements when using them.
1) It is recommended to process plantings in warm (at a temperature of 18-25 ° C), calm weather, in the morning after the dew has dried or in the evening before it appears. It is better to spray herbal preparations in the evening hours, since in the sun they lose their insecticidal properties faster.
2) Working solutions must be prepared 1-3 hours before spraying. For better adhesion, green (potassium), laundry soap, liquid soap or washing powder is added to them. Usually 20-40 g per 10 liters of solution. Having previously cut and diluted the soap in a jar of water, pour it into the working solution.
3) Treatment with infusions and decoctions is repeated after 5-10 days as needed. The last spraying is carried out 20 days before harvest.
Folk ways to deal with the Colorado potato beetle:
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A week or two before planting potatoes in the garden, dig several holes up to 10 cm deep. The earth around them is sprinkled with hot coal ash and slag taken from the furnace of a boiler or stove. Beetles crawl into these holes and die. In the same way, peat or wood ash has a detrimental effect on the pest.
In the spring, before the emergence of potato shoots, 3-4 pieces of tubers are placed in half-liter jars. Then the banks at 10-11 o'clock are placed on the site in the recesses previously dug in the ground. Beetles caught in jars are destroyed.
It is recommended to soak tubers in the spring for 1 day in a solution of urea. Lay out on the site in cloudy weather or at night. The beetle dies by attacking poisoned baits. This method is repeated in the fall after harvest. (CHEMISTRY)
An infusion of wormwood with ash is also used: a glass of wood ash is added to 150-200 g of chopped fresh wormwood, everything is poured hot water, insist 2-3 hours, stir, filter and spray potato bushes with the resulting liquid.
Potato bushes can be pollinated with sifted ash (preferably birch). About 10 kg of ash per 1 hundred square meters of plantings. (1 kg per 10 sq.m). After a day or two, not only the larvae of the Colorado potato beetle die, but also most of the adults. Together with organic matter, pour wood ash into the furrows. The soil, flavored in this way, is disastrous for the beetle.
After hilling around each bush, sprinkle 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ash. When the stems rise by about 15-18 cm, the planting is sprayed with ash-soap infusion.
Gives good results spraying potatoes with an infusion of fresh walnut leaves. Leaves, fruits and walnut shells are used to combat the Colorado potato beetle. From autumn, fallen leaves are harvested and stored in a dry, ventilated place. 3-4 weeks before the mass appearance of the beetle, the leaves are soaked in a bucket (2 kg per 10 liters of water). Before use, the infusion is filtered twice.
The Colorado beetle does not tolerate marigolds (this plant is also called calendula). Where potato beds are “circled” by a row of calendula, and additionally “stitched” diagonally by this flower, there is no pest, although neighboring plantings are affected by the Colorado potato beetle.
Repel the Colorado potato beetle and beans planted next to potatoes. In addition, potatoes are more productive from such a neighborhood, and beans are not superfluous on the farm.
In the aisles of potatoes (or in the rows of bushes), plant sidun beans. These two cultures grow without interfering with one another. But bean beetles do not tolerate and leave the site.
In a bucket of water (10 l) dilute 100 g of birch tar. Spray plantings with a solution 3 times a week.
Good results are obtained by using a 4% solution of chicken manure (about 80 buckets per 1 weave). In the cases described, the beetle disappears for several years (up to 10 years). Processing should be carried out only after harvest.
But it is easier and more efficient to plant nearby repellent plants: catnip, coriander, nasturtium, onion, tansy, horseradish, vegetable beans, white yasnitka.
From moles
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Old grandfather, true natural way. You have to be like an animal. They (mainly males) mark their territory to scare and warn their own kind. And we mark - with urine (male), pouring it into molehills. The effectiveness of the method exceeds expectations.
Throughout the site, in a spread of 2 - 3 m, we drive thin metal rods into the ground, empty beer cans, put them upside down. Any breeze, rocking the banks, creates a very unpleasant noise for the moles.
The surest way is to get a dog. People who have done so say they have forgotten what a mole is and how to deal with it. Apparently the dog also marks its territory with urine.
Any bottle is dug into the ground, into the mole's hole at an angle of 45 degrees. The howling of the wind in empty bottles scares away this animal
A good way is a piece of ordinary water pipe and plastic bottle. Pieces of pipes are hammered into the ground so that their lower end is deeper than the level of the animal's moves. AT upper part pipes clog a pin with a diameter of 8-10 mm, reinforcing it in the center of the pipe with a wooden plug. A hot nail or metal pin is used to burn a hole in the bottom of the bottle with a diameter greater than the diameter of the pin. Cuts are made on the bottle along a solid line, and along a dotted line, the plastic is bent. There should be 4 such bends. At the slightest breath of wind, the bottle rotates, the hollow pipe resonates and creates noise that the animals are afraid of.
But it is more effective to plant nearby repellent plants: castor beans, daffodils.
How to get rid of ants in the garden:
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Loosen their nest and sprinkle with lime or tobacco dust;
Ants do not tolerate strong odors. On the anthill, you can put the head of a smoked herring, sliced \u200b\u200bgarlic cloves into several parts, spread out tomato tops or parsley leaves;
A decoction of tomato tops helps well. The more concentrated the solution, the better;
Take corrugated cardboard about 20 cm wide, sprinkle it with a soot solution or powder it with cinnamon. Ants cannot stand the smell of soot and cinnamon;
Not a very pleasant way, but you can water the nests of ants with urine, this often helps;
Make a solution: take ten liters of water, two glasses vegetable oil, some cheap shampoo and vinegar. Poke a hole in the center of the anthill and pour this mixture into it. Close with foil for a few days;
Bring large red ants from the forest and settle in the garden, and after that the black ants themselves will leave your territory
Plant nearby repellent plants: Peppermint and spike, tansy, bitter wormwood, lavender, small valerian, peppermint and spike, tansy, bitter wormwood, lavender, small valerian.
From the larva cabbage fly
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Sprinkle the soil under the plants with ordinary wood ash, which has a double benefit for cabbage: it repels the cabbage fly, and it is a good fertilizer.
Exclusion from the crop rotation of radish, which most attracts cabbage flies.
To repel flies, sprinkle with naphthalene, after mixing it with sand in a ratio of 5-8 parts of sand and 1 part of naphthalene; instead of naphthalene, tobacco dust is used in a mixture with an equal amount of lime (300 g of the mixture per 10 m2).
You can also soak peat chips (200 g per bucket of peat) with creolin and sprinkle around the plants.
In the fight against larvae, a tobacco solution is also used: 200 g of tobacco and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of soap in 10 liters of hot water. The drug is filtered and sprayed with plants and soil.
Plant nearby repellent plants: garlic, marigolds, radishes, sage, wormwood, hyssop.
From the carrot fly
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You can prepare a spray solution from dry tomato plants. Pour 1 kg of dry mass into 10 liters of water, leave for 4-5 hours, then boil for 2-3 hours on low heat, dilute with water 2 times, add 30-40 g of soap per 10 liters of solution. The decoction retains toxicity to pests for a year when stored in a cool place.
Sowing carrots in early or late dates in dry, unshaded areas. Sowing is important to do immediately sparse: then you do not have to thin out the plants, during which a strong smell of carrots appears, and a large number of flies flock to it.
To scare away the carrot fly, the aisles are pollinated with ground hot pepper or ash.
Spray the soil and plants with infusions of black or red pepper (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), garlic, onion peel, marigolds, tomato tops, wild rosemary, spruce and pine needles and other odorous plants. But in order for the smell of these herbs to constantly stand over the carrot bed, it must be sprayed every three days.
Pour boiling water over crushed bitter wormwood. Infusion to process the beds.
Between the rows of carrots, especially in May and June, pest repellents are added: mustard, ground red or black pepper (1 teaspoon).
It’s great if onions, garlic or tomatoes grow next to a bed of carrots.
To protect crops from carrot flies, which cause a lot of trouble, onion is placed on a green feather on one side of the garden, and garlic on the other;
Plant nearby repellent plants: lettuce, leek, onion, rosemary, sage, tobacco, wormwood.
From wasps, hornets, gadflies, horseflies and bees
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All of them are similar in many ways, and therefore the methods of struggle do not differ.
If a wasp, a bee or a gadfly flies up to you, remain calm, stay still, do not wave your arms or make sudden movements - this can provoke aggression.
After bathing in the river, dry your body immediately, it attracts insects, as does sweat and various perfumes. They don't like strong odors.
Lubricate exposed areas of the body with any cologne that has a little mint oil or mint drops added (5 drops per tablespoon of cologne). The tool works for about an hour.
You can make a trap for wasps. Take 250 ml of water, 4 teaspoons of honey and some vinegar. Heat water, dissolve honey, cool, add vinegar. Pour the solution into a dark glass bottle and place it near the place where the wasps roam.
If found in or near the house vespiary, wait until it gets dark and the wasps gather in the nest, soak a cloth in turpentine, wrap it around the end of the pole and plug the entrance tightly with it. Leave it like this for a day (But in my opinion, this is not humane!)
If wild bees, wasps, hornets try to make their home near you, plant a bush of peppermint or plucked greens.
But given that the benefits of wasps are not commensurate with the inconvenience of their neighborhood, it is best to contact a beekeeper. They know how to deal with them. In the evening, they fumigate, put a bag on the nest, cutting the nest to disconnect it and take it away to the forest. The bag is left untied along with the nest, hastily moving away. All this time you should be in a mosquito net, tight clothing and gloves.
If this is a garden plot, plant repellent plants nearby: peppermint.
From mice
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It’s not bad to prepare baits from vegetable oil, flour and gypsum, which will harden in the stomach of a rodent and cause death (I AGAINST daring!) A similar remedy: spread a mixture of alabaster and sugar (or flour) near the holes and put a saucer with water next to it.
Rats and mice cannot stand the smell of mothballs and mint, which can also be used as a rodent control.
Finely chop the cork and fry it in pork fat. Then throw the bait to the mouse holes. After eating the cork, the mice immediately die from the swollen mass in the stomach.
Scatter hot peppers and dried chamomile flowers along the trajectory of the possible movement of rodents, scatter burdock thorns in the corners of rooms.
Quicklime is mixed with sugar and scattered in places where rodents are most concentrated. Mice and rats willingly eat the bait and soon die. Quicklime in the stomach is heated by the action of water and gastric juice, causing the death of the animal.
When using means of control such as mousetraps, it should be remembered that mice have an extremely acute sense of smell and will try to stay away from a mousetrap that their compatriot has landed in. Therefore, when re-installing the trap, you need to pour boiling water over it, and take the bait with gloves so as not to leave your smell on it.
In the garden, plant repellent plants nearby: at home, where we keep food, lay out dry branches: wormwood, garlic, rank, daffodils.
From apple honeydew
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To destroy the larvae in the period from bud break to flowering, sprinkle the plants with infusion of yarrow, ash, tobacco, shag, soap solution.
Fledged psyllids and those that have returned to lay eggs can be destroyed by tobacco smoke. Pour 1.5-2 kg of tobacco waste on pre-prepared heaps of straw and fumigate for two hours for two plants inhabited by adult suckers. Foolish from the smoke, copperheads fall to the ground. Now it is important to immediately collect them from the ground under the plants, otherwise many will come to their senses and rise into the crown.
Some gardeners use spraying with bitter pepper infusion (1 kg of fresh or 0.5 kg of dry red pepper per 10 liters of water). The infusion is boiled for 1 hour over low heat, then infused for 24 hours. The resulting concentrate can be bottled and stored in a dark, cool place. Before spraying, 125 g of concentrate and 40 g of laundry soap. Plants are sprayed with an interval of 10-15 days.
Plant repellent plants nearby: black henbane, common harmala, creeping mustard, vine clematis, medicinal dandelion, bittersweet nightshade, real tobacco, garlic.
From nematodes
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Arranging quarantine for new plants. Disinfection of dishes, tools (the simplest measure is scalding with boiling water). Sterilization of the substrate in a water bath at a temperature of +50-55C for at least 10 minutes.
After spraying the plants, allow them to dry quickly, with low temperatures keep plants in relatively dry conditions.
Nematodes are very sensitive to heat and can be killed by a 30 minute water bath with a water temperature of 45 C.
Among garden plants, everyone knows how hostile to nematodes, erect marigolds and asparagus. They can be planted in row-spacings or for the whole season they can occupy a plot intended for potatoes to destroy the pest.
An effective preparation is well-made ripe compost. Therefore, where the soil is fertilized with compost, the risk of mass spread of nematodes is minimized.
Plant nearby repellent plants: marigolds, calendula, erect marigolds, asparagus.
From codling moth apple
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After the end of the collection of fruits - collection and destruction of the remnants of the packaging material; cleaning dead bark from boles and branches on old trees.
Mulching between rows and minimal tillage in tree trunks.
Satisfactory results are achieved by hanging on trees special pheromone evaporators (polyethylene and rubber tubes, rings, cords, paper tapes with a consumption of 20-100 g/ha of pheromone) in order to disorient males.
To destroy the caterpillars of the first generation in the second decade of June, belts are placed on the boles of productive trees. They can be agile, requiring periodic review, and suicidal. For the manufacture of hunting belts, paper, gauze, burlap, matting and other materials are taken.
Most of the codling moth caterpillars gather under belts made of burlap and old cloth. Belts are applied at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground, they are examined weekly, crawled caterpillars are selected and destroyed.
Self-killing belts are imposed on trees no younger than 15 years old. For the preparation of belts, wrapping paper is used, cutting it 40-45 cm wide, and one of the longitudinal halves is impregnated on both sides with the composition of chlorophos - 1.5%, preparation No. 30 - 5%, earth - 50% and water - 43.5% . The belts, applied to the trees with the oiled side, ensure the death of the apple codling moth and other pests that have crawled under them throughout the season and do not require viewing.
The fight against apple codling moth can be successfully carried out with an infusion of wormwood. For this, wormwood is harvested from the moment of its flowering, dried and stored in the attic. To prepare the infusion, finely chopped plants are placed in a cauldron (half or 3/4 of the volume) and poured with water; after a day, boil for 30 minutes, cool, filter through gauze and dilute with the same amount of water. Spray trees with an interval of 10-12 days.
This method is effective, and in combination with light traps, it allows you to save the crop without the use of poisons.
There is another way to deal with the apple codling moth. In the garden, immediately after flowering, hang jars of apple syrup seasoned with yeast. You can prepare it from apple juice of dry or green fruits, previously mashed together with the rotting part. Butterflies fly on such syrup and die in it.
Plant repellent plants nearby: garlic, wormwood.
From slugs and snails
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A good neighbor for strawberries is parsley, if you sow it with a border around strawberry beds, then they will not be afraid of snails and slugs.
Spread wet rags or burdock leaves between the rows of plants on which snails have become accustomed, in the morning the mucus will hide under their shadow, and you will go and collect them in the morning.
Arrange saucers with dark beer for the night in the aisles of strawberries. Pour beer somewhere up to a height of 1.5 -2 cm so that the slugs drown.
Sand and sawdust. Snails cannot crawl on sand and sawdust, so a sawdust and sand circle around the plant can be very effective.
An ordinary cup of coffee will scare away pests and will not harm plants. USDA research staff in Hilo, Hawaii tested caffeine sprays on slugs that eat houseplants. They noticed that a 1-2% solution of caffeine kills almost all snails and slugs in two days, and lower concentrations (about 0.01%) scare them away.
For comparison, a cup of instant coffee contains approximately 0.05% caffeine, coffee brewed from ground beans has even more. coffee grounds can also be used as a snail repellent, but spraying with a caffeine solution is much more effective: slugs crawl away as soon as they come into contact with caffeinated soil.
Caffeine can kill small snails and slugs, and scare away large ones. garden plot. It is best to use caffeine for small gardens and plots. Unfortunately, it can act not only on snails and slugs, but also on beneficial insects. High concentrations (from 2%) can damage foliage and cause yellowing of plants.
To kill snails (slugs), the surface of the soil should be sprinkled with freshly slaked lime powder, in the amount of 40 quarters per tithe. Sprinkling of the soil with lime is carried out in 2 steps in the interval of 10-15 minutes. At the first sprinkling, the snail is protected from lime by secreting mucus from itself, while at the second sprinkling, the snail is no longer able to excrete mucus, turns black and dies. Sprinkling the soil with lime in this way for two days in a row, in the morning, you can finally destroy all the snails.
Sprinkle the earth in the evening or in wet weather with finely crushed iron sulphate mixed with sand. None of the named animals will pass where it is poured inkstone, since they die from contact with this substance.
Hedgehogs, frogs and toads eat slugs and snails with great pleasure. True, in the conditions of our sites, quite often these natural enemies simply have nowhere to stumble, and therefore they bypass the gardens.
As for hedgehogs, there is definitely no place for them on 6 acres: it’s too crowded and noisy. And frogs and toads can be completely lured to your site by making some mini-shelters for them in the form of piles of leaves and branches, or even digging a small pond.
Perhaps the simplest remedy is to sprinkle (or, rather, pollinate) the aisles with lime after rain or watering, when the slugs begin to move actively. Getting on strips of lime, they burn their abdomen and die. You can take not pure lime, but mixed with ash or tobacco dust (1: 1). In the absence of rain, the soil is treated in this way late in the evening or at night, when slugs are on the soil or on plants.
Soil treatment is periodically repeated (after 7-15 days), which leads to the gradual death of mollusks.
Ladybug is a well known beneficial insect in the garden. It belongs to round beetles and, depending on the species, is 4-9 cm long. The most common is the seven-spot ladybug. The beetle got its name for 7 black dots on the red elytra. But there are also beetles with yellow elytra and black dots, or dark beetles with light spots or without them at all. Also, the number of spots or the pattern of the wings can be varied. In total, we have about 70 species of large ladybugs, among which about 50 species feed on deciduous aphids, and the rest on shell aphids and spider mites. Ladybugs, along with other leaf aphid killers, are the most important helpers in the garden.
Adult ladybugs hibernate on open field e.g. under foliage or dry grass. In spring, ladybugs lay 10-20 eggs vertically in a group on branches or on inside leaves close to aphid colonies. The larvae from the eggs go through 4 stages. They are usually painted in dark gray with a yellow or red pattern. At the end of the larval stage, ladybugs begin to pupate and, as a rule, acquire a yellow color. After leaving the pupa, the beetle needs another 2-3 days before it acquires the final color. It is of particular importance that both the larvae and the beetles themselves belong to the species predatory insects, feed on aphids.
The seven-spotted ladybug known to us destroys up to 150 aphids per day, smaller species - up to 60. While still larvae, insects devour a total of up to 800 aphids. So, the female beetle destroys about 4 thousand adult aphids in her life.
Settlement in the garden.
- When using a ladybug as a plant protection, its development cycles should be taken into account!
- For wintering, provide an insect with a shelter (foliage, stones, bark, etc.).
Gallica.
Various species of the family of gall midges are better known to amateur gardeners as harmful insects (the larvae of a number of species develop in plant tissues, causing the formation of galls) than help in pest control. The body length of gall midges varies from 1 to 5 mm. Known pests in the garden include, for example, pear gall midge. Useful gall midges feed at the stage of aphid larvae. The most important view is Aphidoletes aphidimyza. The female (about 2-3 mm in size) lays 50-60 eggs in one life span of 1 week not far from the aphid colony. Orange-red larvae hatch on the 4-7th day. The latter bite the aphids by the legs and inject a paralyzing fluid. The bitten aphid dies and is used by the larva for food. After 2 weeks, a fully formed larva falls to the ground and turns into a cocoon on the ground. After 3 weeks, a second brood hatches, whose cocooned larvae overwinter on the ground and hatch in the spring as adults.
Settlement in the garden.
- No special conditions are required, except for the complete exclusion of the use of chemicals in the garden.
Sarefo
Ground beetle larvae.
Ground beetle larvae feed on the eggs of vegetable flies, small insects and their larvae, worms, slugs. These beetles are rarely seen in the garden during the day, they hide in shelters. The length of the ground beetle is up to 4 cm, it is very mobile. Many species cannot fly and therefore are active at night. The color of the ground beetle is the most varied: large black and completely yellow shimmering species are known. Adult insects hibernate in the garden in secluded protected corners, for example, under the house or woodpile. Large ground beetles lay 40-60 eggs separately in shallow holes in the ground. The eggs hatch into larvae after a few days and hatch, depending on the species, 2-3 years before the pupa. After a pupal period lasting approximately 2-3 weeks, adult (developed) ground beetles hatch from them. Along with ground beetles, which live mainly on the ground, there are also arboreal and flying species. They feed on small insects and worms and therefore live in decaying organic matter, such as compost.
Settlement in the garden.
- The ground beetles should be provided with shelter (foliage, sawdust and shavings, small heaps of stones), they live on open ground, sometimes hiding in earthen cracks.
- Pesticides are the most terrible enemy of ground beetles!
Alvesgaspar
Hoverflies.
Hoverflies are of great importance in horticulture because their larvae feed on aphids.. Larvae develop in different conditions - in soil, slurry or on plants. Visually, the hoverfly looks like a wasp, the length of an adult is 8-15 mm. The peculiarity of hoverflies, reflected in their name, is that in flight they can, as it were, hover in place, while making a sound that vaguely resembles the murmur of water.
Egg laying occurs in aphid colonies. Eggs 1 mm oblong white color. The larvae hatched from the eggs do not have legs and move like snails. They are white or yellow in color and look like fly larvae.
To hunt for aphids, hoverflies use their hook-shaped jaws, with which they firmly hold prey, sucking it out. The development of the larva to the pupal stage lasts 2 weeks. During this time, the larva eats up to 700 aphids. Hoverfly larvae are active mainly at night and do not go hunting until dusk. The hoverfly survives the pupal stage in a shell in the form of a droplet, located near the aphid colony on leaves or on the ground. Separate types several generations are bred, most - up to 5 per year. In some species, females hibernate in the same way as larvae or pupae. The hoverflies themselves feed on flower and honeydew, as well as aphid secretions.
Settlement in the garden.
- Areas with flowering plants are most suitable for hoverflies, but not well-groomed lawns. Plants that bloom are especially fond of hoverflies. yellow flowers. - For overwintering hoverflies, you can leave small wooden boxes filled with dry grass or shavings.
Richard Bartz
The lacewing and its larvae are aphids.
The lacewing, along with ladybugs, is an enemy of aphids.. In our gardens, the most common species is green with yellow eyes. The beetle got its name precisely for these eyes. An adult has a wingspan of up to 3 cm. Green oblong insects wear house-shaped, transparent veined wings, folding them on the lower part of a long body.
The female lays about 20 greenish eggs individually or in groups on bark or leaves.. The larvae hatched from eggs develop within 2-3 weeks depending on weather conditions. Their length is only 7 mm, the jaws are long, sickle-shaped and pointed. The larvae feed on small insects, especially aphids. Individual individuals are capable of destroying up to 500 aphids during development.
After 18 days, the larvae hide in a protected place, wrap themselves around and turn into a white round cocoon.. After the lacewing emerges from the cocoon, the next generation begins. In total, 2 generations can appear in a year. Adults feed, as a rule, on honeydew and pollen, on occasion they do not disdain small insects. The adult lacewing hibernates in secluded corners, so sometimes it can be found in residential areas. During the wintering period, the insect may acquire a yellow or brown color, but in the spring it turns green again.
Slimy lion.
Along with the common lacewing, we also have about 42 species of secret lions, which, like the lacewing, belong to real lacewings. One of the most famous species has a wingspan (brown with a specific shape) of about 3 cm. Adults and larvae feed on aphids and contribute to the biological balance in the fight against this pest.
Settlement in the garden. They prefer areas rich in flowering plants. Green-eyed birds need a shelter for the winter in the form of small wooden houses stuffed with straw.
The use of lacewing for targeted biological plant protection in greenhouses and protected ground has been tested with good results. For this, it is necessary for each square meter surface, place 20 lacewing eggs, which can be purchased at special biological laboratories.
Aka
Riders.
Riders can hibernate as larvae, pupa, or adults.. For 1 time, the female lays about 30 eggs in the cabbage caterpillar. In total, she can lay up to 200 eggs. After the larvae hatch in the caterpillar, the shell of its body cracks, releasing the larvae, which turn into pupae a little later.
Settlement in the garden.
- It is necessary to arrange wintering "apartments" in tall grass or in roots under bushes, etc.
- The rider likes to settle in umbrella plants(dill, coriander, lovage, cumin, kupyr, etc.)
Bruce Marlin
Earwig ordinary.
The common earwig, belonging to the leather-winged order, is well known to gardeners and gardeners. The length of the body is 3.5-5 mm, the forewings are solid, the hindwings are membranous. There are also wingless forms. Its claws located in the back of the body are impressive. The earwig hunts mainly at dusk and at night, and during the day it hides in dark narrow crevices.
By exterminating harmful insects, such as dahlia woodlice, earwigs can damage delicate young dahlia plants.
In spring and autumn, the female lays up to 100 eggs in a mink, which she digs herself, guards them and takes care of her offspring - first the eggs, and later the larvae. Earwigs overwinter in shelters - in the bark of trees, cracks in buildings, in the soil, flower pots filled with small chips or some other material, such as moss.
Settlement in the garden.
- Can be used as shelter flower pots filled with wood shavings, moss or hay. Such pots are displayed between vegetable crops or hung on trees.
- For the winter, the pots should be cleaned out, and refilled in the spring.
- digging in trunk circles trees contributes to the normal functioning of the insect. Often, earwigs also seek shelter for the winter precisely under the trees, in its fallen leaves.
Fritz Geller Grimm
Bed bugs.
The predatory bug belongs to the class of weevils. His different kinds have specific power sources. For some, it is the juice of a plant, for others, insects. For the gardener, the latter are primarily interesting, which, among other things, destroy aphids. These include soft-bodied and false bugs, among which some species feed mainly on spider mites.
flower bugs- small predatory insects 3-4 mm long. For 1 time, the female lays up to 8 eggs, mainly along the edges of the leaves. For a year, bugs breed 2 generations, and in areas with a warm climate even 3. Predatory bugs overwinter as adults. More large species flower bugs also feed on gall midge larvae.
Settlement in the garden.
- No special requirements and recommendations, except for the exclusion of the use of chemical plant protection products.
Thomas Schoch
How to attract insects to the garden
If we take a lot of useful insects from somewhere and release them into the garden, then the effect will be only short-term. It is much more important that beneficial insects take root in the garden. To do this, you need to create for them suitable conditions. First of all, it is a food base and places for shelter and reproduction of beneficial insects.
For reproduction and increase in the species composition of beneficial insects, including predatory (entomophages), it is important to take into account their features:
- predatory insects are attracted by flowering plants, and not by pests (phytophages);
- predatory insects use for reproduction and destroy that kind of "host" i.e. pest on which they have developed themselves.
So, beneficial insects are attracted to the garden by flowering plants (flowering weeds), not pests.
The presence in the garden and on the lawns, in the fields of natural nectar-bearing flowers, even in small quantities, allows predatory insects to carry out additional nutrition in the breeding stages. Moreover, some predatory insects are able to reproduce effectively only by combining feeding on nectar or honeydew and insect prey. Therefore, the presence of flowering weeds, even in the fields where crops are grown, at a level below the economic threshold of harmfulness, increases the effectiveness of predatory insects and is considered appropriate.
There must always be a certain number of different pests in the garden in order for beneficial insects to survive.
Specialized predatory insects are looking for their "master" i.e. pest, regardless of its abundance. Therefore, once again, there should always be a certain number of different pests in the garden, no matter how paradoxical it sounds! Usually, plants are planted in a hedge around the garden, on which pests develop and predatory insects survive. Only in this case can they prevent pest outbreaks. Polyphagous predatory insects show interest in one or another type of pest only when its abundance is high, so they are usually late.
Therefore, a variety of predatory insect species is necessary for sustainable pest management. And to expand the species composition and reproduction of predatory insects, their fodder nectar-bearing plants should be sown. These are usually compound umbelliferous and paniculate plants whose many small flowers provide many sources of nectar and together form a place where beneficial insects, including bees, and butterflies can sit.
Kropsoq
Among the plants that attract insects - the defenders of the garden, the following should be noted:
The advantage of tansy is that the infusion of tansy leaves repels the Colorado potato beetle. I’ll add from myself, abundant herbage of tansy is good to use in composts. In such compost, the larvae of the bear and the May beetle do not start.
Decoctions from the leaves and flowers of tansy contain many different vitamins, essential substances, improve the taste of kvass, dough, and jam is made from flowers.
Chamomile. Perennial attractive to wasps and flies. During the flowering period, it is covered with many yellow flowers.
Lemon marigolds. Attracts small wasps and spiders. Seedlings are planted in the ground at a time when the danger of frost has passed.
Caraway. Attracts cunning bugs, spiders, small wasps, hoverflies and lacewings during the flowering period. Its fragrant seeds are used in bread baking and for making marinades.
Dill is fragrant. Attracts ladybugs, hoverflies, small wasps and spiders.
Buckwheat. It is an effective soil-forming plant that increases the content of organic matter when plowed.
Honey plant. It attracts not only pollinating bees, but also flies, ladybugs, hoverflies, predatory bugs.
Spearmint used to make refreshing teas and as fragrances. Mint is attractive to flies and spiders.
Many types of legumes have the ability to attract beneficial insects, for example, crimson clover, creeping clover, vetch. They provide beneficial insects with constant food and moisture, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
To ensure availability throughout the season flowering plants, attractive to beneficial insects, you need to start with those that bloom earlier, for example, with buckwheat, which will be replaced by fragrant dill. Immediately you need to plant marigolds, calendula, so that they bloom in the middle of summer. It is necessary to grow tansy, sweet clover and navel, which bloom from year to year for a long time.
The task of using beneficial insects is not to completely destroy pests, but to control their numbers.
By creating conditions that would combine a favorable environment for beneficial insects and decorativeness, a natural balance can be achieved between the number of harmful and beneficial insects.