We grow a violet from a leaf. From leaf to bloom

Saintpaulia Uzumbarskaya is the exact name of a houseplant that is known to everyone as a simple violet. Saint Paul Walter, the French military commander of the German colony, discovered it in the Usambara Mountains of East Africa. In his honor, she got her name.

Now saintpaulia is a universal favorite among collectors of domestic plants, because rarely can a species boast such a variety of shapes and colors of flowers and leaves.

Some consider it capricious and demanding to care for, others - completely picky, the cultivation of which is no more difficult than any other. indoor flower. The difficulties are primarily due to the location of the violets in the house relative to the natural solar lighting. This is photophilous plant which does not tolerate direct sunlight. It is easiest to create such conditions on the northeast and northwest windows. On the south side will need artificial shading. Gauze or voile tulle stretched over the window is suitable to protect the flowers from the sun.

Lighting

In natural African environment violets grow in partial shade under the protection of shrubs from hot sunlight, so indoors, she needs to create similar conditions. For home Saintpaulia, it does not matter what source of lighting is used, whether it is the sun, or ordinary light bulb incandescent. This is her huge plus and one of the reasons for the special love of flower growers for her.

Collectors and hobbyists for growing violets use large glass racks with backlight fluorescent lamps . They are easy to make yourself or buy ready-made in flower shops. Blooming violets on the shelves receive the necessary portion of light and look especially impressive.

Violets planted in the same pots look very nice on the shelves, optimal size which are 10 cm in diameter and the same height. The quality of the container should not be given much attention, ceramics or plastic is not essential for them. small size container will not prevent plants from fully developing. It is good to have special "nurseries" for growing violet babies. in the form of a rack with small pots. The variety of Saintpaulia varieties suggests individual selection pots. Among the small-growing varieties of violets, there are quite large ones, which will require more spacious containers.

Saintpaulia soil can be purchased ready-made, although experienced growers find it too light and prefer to make up the potting mix themselves. Drainage is laid out on one third of the pot at the bottom. It could be charcoal, expanded clay or broken brick. Sawdust for violets is not suitable as drainage.

The composition of the shop soil for violets includes:

• sod land;
• humus
• sand;
• sphagnum moss

You can independently take the soil similar in composition in the forest. The advantage of store soil is its biological sterility.

A mandatory requirement for the soil mixture is high friability with good air exchange.

The lower leaves, small basal rosettes and flower stalks are used for propagation of Saintpaulia uzambar. Most commonly used leaves, but with this method, some breeding varieties of violets do not inherit the characteristics of the mother plant. In such cases, they resort to reproduction with a ready-made rosette or peduncle.

In order to leaf cuttings gave roots, they are placed in a container with filtered or settled water. After 1.5 - 2 months, sprouts form at the ends of the cuttings. The time for the formation of children, depending on the variety, is purely individual, some require up to 4 months for this. It is not necessary to keep cuttings in water, planting a leaf immediately in a pot is more justified. At the time of seating root system small rosettes when grown in the ground are stronger, in contrast to those formed and grown in water.

Young plants are carefully seated in pots, 5-6 cm in diameter. The soil for them should be less nutritious than for adult plants. The next final transplant will be at the age of 3-4 months. Usually, about six months pass from the moment the sprout takes root in the ground to flowering.

Necessary conditions for humidity and watering violets

Violets can not be watered randomly. These are not geraniums that can be poured today and then dried, they will forgive everything and survive. Violets need competent watering, soil moisture must be carefully monitored, since the main cause of plant death is root rot due to excessive watering. That is why the soil for planting is used loose, and the drainage layer is large enough.

for watering melted, rain or settled water is used room temperature . It should not stagnate, it is poured into a pan or under the root, avoiding contact with the leaves. Excess water from the pan after 20 minutes should be poured out. Drops of water on the leaves are recommended to be gently absorbed with a napkin. From the refraction of sunlight in these places, spots from burns may appear.

The room temperature is maintained at about 22 0 С. high temperature the air becomes drier, which is reflected in the condition of the violets. The buds are poorly laid, the flowers become smaller and quickly wither.

top dressing

Planted in nutrient soil, the first three months of Saintpaulia does not need top dressing. But when everything runs dry in the soil useful material without additional fertilization is indispensable. It is better to use ready-made liquid preparations , they are less hassle, they are easy to dose and they are better absorbed. They must be brought in at the root. It is advisable to alternate organic and mineral fertilizers.

Two hours before fertilizing, the flowers should be watered abundantly in order not to burn the roots. Violet is one of those types of plants that are better to underfeed than overfeed. If her appearance does not cause concern, you can not rush to fertilize. If the leaves of the plant drooped and began to fade, the more he does not need extra chemicals. It is better to treat with Epin's solution and cover with a bag for 3-4 days.

Violets rarely get sick and are affected by pests. The most common disease is late blight. Signs of the disease - brown spots on stem and leaves. Late blight leads to increased humidity of the soil and air. It is unlikely that it will be possible to reanimate a diseased plant, so the main task will be to keep the rest from infection. The violet should be destroyed, the soil thrown away, the pot sterilized.

by the most dangerous pest violet is a root nematode. These pests can get into the ground from the street or from under other indoor plants. Violet roots affected by the nematode cease to nourish the plant and it quickly dies. To avoid this, it is safer to buy ready ground in the shop.

Thrips - small insects living on back side leaves. If you remove the leaves and flowers with thrips in time, you can save the violet. Sick and infected plants should be isolated from the rest in the first place so that the infection does not spread further.

Some features of violet care

There are several specific methods for caring for Saintpaulia uzambar.

• Pots with violets must be turned over in relation to the sun to give the rosette the correct shape.
• As the flowers mature, the leaves from below are carefully trimmed. bright and beautiful bouquet framed by several rows of green leaves will have a compact shape and look especially attractive.
• Violets age quite quickly, the stem becomes longer, the flowers are smaller. Maximum term life is two years. Further cut leaves should be used as planting material for young violets or "rejuvenate" the plant. To do this, it is cut off at the root, a few young leaves are left and rooted like a young rosette.
• To make violet flowers brighter, it is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The hassle of growing saintpaulia is more than justified by the end result. It is difficult to imagine anything more spectacular among houseplants than pots of blooming violets. There are about thirty thousand varieties, special exhibitions are held, there is a Saintpaulia lovers club. Communication, exchange of experience, selection attempts - all this unites large group people around a small, beautiful and delicate indoor flower - saintpaulia uzambar or just violets.

Violets in the house: how long do they live, is it necessary to rejuvenate, how to rejuvenate and transplant a violet? Read today's article if the topic is relevant to you.

How many years does a room violet live

The plant “once and for all life” is about violet. miniature plant a real record holder among plants. By regularly renewing, repotting and rejuvenating the violet, you can spend decades in the company of your flower friend, the only question is how to properly develop and renew the violet.

In apartment conditions, the violet is put up on the windowsills, placed next to heating appliances , which can spoil the health of the flower - the leaves will fall off, the earthen lump will dry out. You can prevent diseases if you properly dispose of the location and update the shoots. Then the violet lives 10-15 years without problems and then the issue of re-care.

How to rejuvenate a violet:

• Cut off the apical part when the stem is exposed;
• Sprinkle with coal the remaining "stump";
• You can propagate cut cuttings;

Periodically, the violet will be exposed, opening leaves and shoots., which indicates a lack of nutrition, about the obsolescence of the root system, the need for transplantation or pruning. In this case, all blown leaves are removed from the plant. You can from time to time heal the soil by removing upper layer and pouring new earth. For a more serious update, a transplant is carried out: transfer the violet from the pot to the oilcloth, clean it of clods of old earth, inspect and, if necessary, cut off the root system.

New soil for planting room violets:

• 1 cm small pebbles on the bottom;
• 1 part sand;
• 1 part of leaf land;
• 1 piece of turf;
• A couple of pieces of sphagnum moss;

After transplantation, the rosette of leaves will be updated and the violet will return to its former lively, varietal color. After a couple of months, new roots will even grow, which will give, respectively, live shoots - up to 2-3 cm each.

How to feed a violet to live longer?

In addition to the standard mixture, we need top dressing that stimulates development. Violet is often fed "Uniflor-growth" or "Uniflor-bud", which has proven itself among flower growers. For additional leaf growth, constant daylight in the spring and illuminated with lamps in the winter.

Violet will live long

As it grows, the upper part of the violet will increase. We know that a pot is chosen just right for a plant - growth stops in a large one - but if development is proceeding rapidly, do not be afraid to change it. No matter how many years the room violet lives, she needs to provide suitable conditions , that is, take into account elementary needs: a pot, earth, watering, temperature, lighting.

In fact, the longevity of violets is based on the characteristics of the variety and the care of the flower. The last point lies entirely on the shoulders of the grower. Transplantation can be carried out no more than 1 time in 3 years, but the rejuvenation of the rosette of leaves, described above, once every 2 years. Removal of dead parts and leaves - if necessary. With care, you could very well make a violet the first 60 or 80 year old plant in the history of floriculture.

↓ Write in the comments how long does your room violet live? How do you update the plant?

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READ ALSO:

Growing violets from peduncle

Violet transplant at home

Violet breeding methods

Pests of the uzambara violet

Uzambara violet leaf propagation

Why don't houseplants bloom?

Many people love and breed at home. These cute plants bloom very beautifully and for a long time, while most varieties are quite unpretentious in their care. There is a considerable selection of indoor violets various varieties with different sizes and shapes of leaves, a shade of flowers.

Indoor violets - types

When the violet was just begun to be studied, there were about 20 of its species. Over time, new varieties were bred, which differ in color, leaf shape, and inflorescences.

According to the type of inflorescence, large-scale indoor violet flowers are divided into terry and fringed. The color of both can be very different, including one-color, multi-color, with patterns, with a border. At ampelous species with branched stems there are few inflorescences, in other species the inflorescences are heapy and there are many of them.

How to breed indoor violets?

If you suddenly saw pots of colorful violets at someone's house and really wanted to breed them at home, you just need to ask the hostess to break off one leaf from each plant for you.

You can either immediately plant them in the ground and cover the pots with polyethylene with holes, or put them in a glass of water with diluted in it activated carbon until roots appear.

If an adult plant already has daughter sockets, you can plant them in separate containers. propagate violets better in spring in March-April.

By the way, violets periodically need to rejuvenate. Few wondered how long room violet. It turns out that she also has a limited period, after which she degenerates, sheds her lower leaves and resembles a palm tree. This is harmful for her, her rosette grows thin, the flowers become smaller. Therefore, once every couple of years you need to do transshipment.

You need to transplant into large pots, for the first time covered with a film. When you notice intensive growth, polyethylene can be removed.

There are many options for planting a violet leaf. I want to remind you once again that these are answers to frequently asked questions "How to plant a leaf", "I'm afraid I won't be able to grow from a leaf ...". It is for those who have not yet decided to grow a violet from a leaf - these notes. This is my experience with leaf violets. I came to him after countless discarded leaves and mature plants. I hope you find it useful.

When to expect what? - all terms will be called from the date of separation of the leaf from the mother plant.
After 3 weeks - roots, after 5 - 6 weeks - babies, after 12 weeks - seating of children from the mother leaf, after 5 months transplant into an "adult" pot, after 6 - 9 months - flowers. These are approximate dates!
Leaf stalk (leaf, it consists of a stem stalk and sheet plate)) is separated from the mother plant. (We break off the sheet, taking it to the side). If the sheet is damaged, slightly scratched, notched - NOTHING WRONG!!! The upper part (1/3) of the leaf plate is often cut off to speed up the appearance of babies.
Now we will cut the cutting, leaving 3 cm. If it accidentally broke off and remained shorter, the leaf will also take root perfectly.
Let's Cook Lightly warm solution potassium permanganate light pink. Completely put the leaf in this solution for a few seconds.

The leaf can be rooted in water: This option is more preferable - cuttings often rot in water, leaves placed in water often lose turgor. In any case, very often flower growers talk about the death of leaves rooted in this way.
The second option is rooting the leaf. And this way is much better!
The leaf can also be rooted in a light mixture.
Preparing the mixture - simply and quickly:
- A glass of vermiculite
- A glass of perlite
- a glass of any nutrient soil
You can do with only perlite and vermiculite, without adding soil.
Pour this mixture warm. boiled water.
We take a plastic pot with a diameter of 5 - 6 cm and fill it with the prepared mixture.
We plant a leaf in the mixture, deepening the cutting by 1 cm. If it falls, you can make a support from counting sticks, plastic straws for a cocktail, etc. We put it in a greenhouse, or better just cover it with an individual bag.
There should not be water in the pan of the greenhouse, there is already sufficient humidity. The mixture was completely saturated with water, now the excess water must be poured out. No one has yet said that when rooting in this way, the leaves die. Well, what if the leaf is withered? Let's put it in wet moss, and be sure to put it in a greenhouse, or, more simply, under a bag. You can cover the entire leaf with wet moss. Secret in high humidity and warm. Well, of course, keep the leaves away from the windowsill! So, our leaf is sitting, and we are waiting for the roots.
The sheet does not need to be fertilized with anything. It has to look for food - then it puts out roots.
The roots of the leaf appear 2 to 3 weeks after separation from the mother plant. Sometimes after 4 is also acceptable.
When “babies” appear at the base of the leaf (after about 5-6 weeks), the greenhouse can be removed - at first gradually, for a few minutes a day, and when the “babies” are 2 centimeters high, remove completely.

It doesn't really matter what soil you use for violets. The main thing is any soil that says “specially for violets, completely ready for use, with the addition of perlite, moss, etc.” in fact
not ready for growing violets.
Baking powder must be added to it. Best of all - sphagnum moss, perlite, vermiculite. Moss absorbs moisture and then gradually gives it to the roots, perlite provides "forced" air access to the roots, vermiculite absorbs moisture and keeps the soil loose. You can do without moss and vermiculite, but perlite must be present. You can get by with finely chopped foam.

Leaves and babies should be kept at a temperature of at least 20 degrees. Optimal - 24 - 26. Adult violets - at a temperature of at least + 18.
You can not germinate leaves or "kids" on the windowsill. Leaf or baby need minimum temperature+20 degrees. On the windowsill at night + 12 - 15. This is only permissible for adult plants (although very undesirable). Put the thermometer on the windowsill and see what the temperature is early in the morning.
So the kids grew up
each "baby" has 3 - 4 pairs of leaves, they have reached a height of about 4 - 5 centimeters.
We spread them. We take out the whole plant from the pot, not trying to shake off the ground. Let the roots of the "kids" remain with lumps of earth on them. Carefully separate the children from the mother sheet and from each other. Everyone learns this process only on their own in practice.
Each baby formed a small "wound" - a place of separation from the mother's sheet. We sprinkle this wound with crushed coal.
We seat the children in pots with a diameter of 4–5 cm. The diameter of the child (opened leaves) should be equal to the diameter of the pot.
For planting children, the mixture should contain more nutrient soil.
- Half a glass of perlite
- Half a cup of vermiculite
- Two cups of nutrient soil
Pour the mixture with warm boiled water, put in a greenhouse for several days. The greenhouse must have holes for air. A fully sealed greenhouse should not be for leaves or for children.

When "kids" became "starters"
young plants, ready to lay peduncles (diameter 12-15 cm, leaves with a diameter of 3-4 cm, about 6-8 leaves)
- we plant them in pots with a diameter of 6 - 7 cm.
At the bottom of the pot we put drainage pebbles - expanded clay (or moss, or crushed foam) with a layer of 1 cm.
Mixture:
- Half cup chopped sphagnum
- Half a glass of perlite
- Half a cup of vermiculite
- Three cups of nutrient soil
We also do not put these children on the windowsill. There are strong temperature fluctuations even in summer.
You can try to put it on the windowsill when 2-3 months have passed after the children were planted from the mother sheet. Better not to the south window. In general, a lot of trouble with the windowsill. Certain varieties can not stand the sun, you need to shade the plants. During the day they can "hang" the leaves. On window sills, plants are often attacked powdery mildew – white coating on flowers and buds, rot, fungal diseases. So, violets are best grown on a shelf under the backlight. A lamp (3 cm in diameter) 60 cm long at a distance of 25 cm from the crown of plants illuminates a shelf 30 cm wide. In this case, you need two thin Chinese lamps with a power of 20 watts (the diameter of such a lamp is 1 cm). Lamps are suitable for any, it's about the intensity of lighting. The light should be brighter than for reading.
Violet should receive bright light for 12 to 14 hours daily. On the windowsill, in any case, it receives enough light only from March to September. In October, normal light is only from 9 am to 5 pm - this is 8 hours, and even less in winter. That's why violets bloom on the windowsill by May - two months of normal lighting have passed
(March and April). 60 days is the normal period for laying the peduncle and its development.
On shelves under illumination, violets bloom for 2 months, then rest for 2-3 months. There are no seasons, and the leaves take root in any month.
Do not try to plant a violet in a spacious pot.
In a pot that is too large, the earth turns sour, the violet can “go away” into the leaves, and it will not bloom well. The maximum pot for an adult violet is 9–11 cm in diameter (for large varieties- 12 - 13 cm). the rule is that the diameter of the outlet is three times the diameter of the pot.
Watering - warm water, settled, boiled, or passed through a filter. Before watering, add a little boiling water to water at room temperature so that the water is slightly warmer than fresh milk.
Never reuse any components land mixtures or drainage! There are two reasons: Firstly, the soil has already given all its nutrients. Secondly, microorganisms have already begun to multiply there. By the same principle, they do not plant the same crop in the same garden for two years in a row in the garden.

Good luck to you! source http://fialki-flame.ru/start_first_steps.html

Violet is not a dog, not a parrot, does it have a “shelf life”? There is.

Turns out violets get old. You probably noticed that the violet periodically parted with the lower leaves that have served their purpose. This is normal. But it leads to the fact that in 1.5-2 years, instead of a “socket” on the windowsill, you will have a “palm tree”. You may not care, but the violet, it turns out, suffers. Why?

Let's remember again - where and how the Uzambara violets grow.

In the shade of trees and bushes. Leaves also fall from trees and shrubs. They cover the exposed stem of the violet and on it, in a humid warm environment (the result of the decomposition of fallen leaves), new roots appear. And the old roots are dying off.

And so the violet grows - the leaves die off, new roots appear in their place - the old roots die off. The constant desire for the "stars" (or rather, the sun).

But this is in nature.

What about in our apartment?

We carefully monitor our pet - we remove all wilted leaves and flowers, only earth, a pot and a green bush. No trash. But there will also be no “warm moist atmosphere” around the stem either. Old roots die off, new ones, even if they try to grow, immediately dry up. The rosette grows leaner, the flowers become smaller. In general, the aging of the violet in all its "glory".

What to do?

And how to rejuvenate violets?

As long as the pot allows, add new soil.

When this reserve is exhausted, transshipment should be carried out. It is desirable to carry it out in the spring - in early March.

If the violet is still young and sits in small pot, then for transshipment you can take a larger pot (the diameter is 2 cm larger than the previous one - no longer needed). Pour small pebbles on the bottom for drainage, and 1 cm soil mixture. Then, take a pot of violets. If it is plastic, squeeze it on all sides with your fingers so that a clod of earth lags behind the walls (the earth should be slightly damp). In a ceramic pot - using a knife, carefully separate the earth from the walls. Now in right hand take the violet by the stem, holding the pot, turn it over. The clod of earth slides easily. It must be supported so that its weight does not break the stem or damage the roots. The released plant is carefully placed in a new pot. From above we add new earth to the level of the lower leaves. Water and cover with plastic. In a month, when new roots appear and intensive growth of greenery begins, polyethylene can be removed.

But this can be done with a relatively young violet, with a still green stem (up to 2 cm).

The taller "palm tree" is already covered with a brown crust, through which the roots cannot break through.

Then, before transplanting the violet, scrape sharp knife crust from stem to green tissue. At the same time, efforts must be made to maintain upper part earthen coma, carefully separate the lower third and only after that plant the plant in a new pot. Next - watering and a greenhouse for a month.

If you are not lazy and at least once every 2 years carry out the “rejuvenation” procedure, then your violets will live forever.