Wooden tabletop for the table with your own hands. How to make a simple table for a summer residence with your own hands
To begin with, a lover of self-made furniture should learn how to create a stool, since this is the easiest. And then comes the time to study the issue of creating a table.
Table designs vary, however, the simple version is very similar to the process of making a stool.
A simple table for use in the country or during a picnic can be assembled in just a few hours. To do this, you need a hacksaw, hammer or drill.
However, a table based on a similar approach can also be made for living quarters. Because it is able to perfectly replace the current very large version bought at a retail outlet or furniture store.
The process of self-creation of the table is also interesting from the other side, since with the help of it there is freedom of the author's creative expression. It can be imagined as a noticeable element of the interior of the room.
The creators of handmade amateur furniture are called carpenters for a reason. They do not apply the usual definition like: sofas or bedside tables, or maybe cabinets.
Having gained experience in this area, over time it will be possible to create exclusive types of tables with advanced characteristics.
Now consider the issue of self-creation of tables based on wood.
Wood is distinguished by its purity and availability, in addition, it is not as difficult to process as other materials. It conveys the maximum energy of the aesthetic filling of the style of the living room.
Due to its properties, it is condescending to the mistakes of beginners in the field of self-creation of furniture. However, thinner versions of the tables will require an advanced level of skill.
To begin with, having learned how to work with wooden things, then it will be easier to use as a material: glass, plastic or even metal.
Selection of tools and premises for work
To engage in the independent creation of tables or other wooden furniture elements, it is necessary to use only non-residential premises.
This is due to the specifics of working with wood. It leads to the formation of a large amount of dust, chips and other waste.
And the process of toning or creating protection for a stain-based material can form dangerous emissions into the air. Actually, nitro-varnishes can also be dangerous.
Because of this, for a personal carpentry workshop, you will have to take care of airing the room. Experts advise creating artificial ventilation of the room.
Many people use the garage for this, however, production waste can pollute or damage the car because of this, this is not the best option.
Carpentry tools belong to modern and traditional types
For the most part, you can start with a simple carpentry tool, however, later modern versions may be required in the form of:
- A rotary version of the miter box, which helps to create saw cuts based on two planes, adhering to the required size.
- This tool will reveal all its useful properties, first of all, with a bow saw. This couple is considered universal, it can be useful for many jobs.
- A manual version of the universal electric jigsaw, featuring a tilting shoe to help create cuts based on the desired angle in relation to the vertical plane.
- Disc version of the grinder. It will help beginners complete the surface treatment of wood in about 5-15 minutes. An experienced carpenter, along with sandpaper, can do the same job in about an hour.
And there is also a conventional belt grinder for grooves with recessed places, which is distinguished by a protruding version of the working part.
Such tools are distinguished by the price and narrow specialization of the work, experienced craftsmen recommend taking them for a short rental period.
The best specialists, using various sanding machines, can even create the effect of artificial aging of wood, however, this is a very difficult job, as for beginners.
Which tree is the best?
To create a wooden table, any wood that has an average resistance to the rotting process will work well, however, you should refrain from softer versions like poplar, willow, ailanthus, aspen, and even alder.
From domestic types of wood it is best to use:
- soft options in the form of pine, fir, cedar, horse chestnut, plane tree, juniper or spruce.
- solid in the form of an ideal oak, suitable for many works of beech, maple, walnut or ash, larch, as well as fruit species represented by apples, plums, pears, apricots and quince. And also here it is worth including elm and mountain ash.
- rather hard species based on acacia, yew, stone birch, dogwood and boxwood.
Conclusion
You want to decorate the table and probably all types of furniture created by yourself with an artistic version of the painting, and not with ordinary stripes.
However, over time, the pattern may deteriorate, so that this does not happen, it is necessary to rub the paint into the depth of the tree before the varnishing process. This can be done on the basis of technology - glazing. We are talking about layer-by-layer rubbing of the paints used.
DIY table photo
The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distributing and dining tables; on them the remnants of food and food were preserved. In this article, we will see how to make a kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but will also provide an opportunity to acquire the initial carpentry skills, which in the future may turn out to be much more significant. In kitchen tables, the most common types of furniture connections are used, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great-looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and wrap a screw.
The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here much less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the entire interior. Samples of the original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite accessible for DIY, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, which we will try to help the reader with.
There are at least 15 different ways to make a kitchen table, including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, we, firstly, will limit ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the lowest costs of labor, money and time.
Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular table for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and you need to serve it on the table over the shoulder of the person sitting. This already belongs to the category of parodies on the rules of good taste. Like, how should you tilt the plate when eating the soup: towards yourself or away from you? Answer: depending on what you want to pour over, yourself or a tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity, wedged into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.
Dimensions and ergonomics
The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the table height of 750-760 mm is considered optimal. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.
The essence is in the very triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen are much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested her seductive forms on the cheek of the missus just when he raised the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially economical layouts, smaller, if only it would be convenient for the eaters.
The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of is considered to be 600x900 mm. For singles, let's say a table 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it a wall-mounted folding one in the “microkitchen” or kitchen area of a small-sized odnushka, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen table top are (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the complexion of users.
What to do
Traditional kitchen table - on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsarg. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the legs of the table, and the tabletop is freely placed on them; those. its fastenings prevent only horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and stronger, but it is more difficult to bring it in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the sides are tightly fastened to the tabletop, and the legs are detachable. The countertop in this case needs a strong one and not from any suitable in the previous. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skid / carry out. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail below.
The table on the underframe can also be artistically designed, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - turned shaped legs - perfectly turns out from commercially available railing balusters (see below). The curly washed down tsarg for a novice master who knows how to handle a jigsaw does not pose a problem. There remains a mow - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the tsargs. For her, you can rent a manual milling machine with a milling cutter of a profile you like, with it the work on aiming the moulding takes less than an hour plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.
No less common in kitchens are tables of a beam structure, pos. 3. They are also in the simplest version (see 2 options below) more attractive than tables with underframes. However, a well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills are required to make them in a high-end design (item 4). Beam tables require more material consumption, but their undeniable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).
Tables with a load-bearing top without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest type of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming table top (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and assembly will take at least half an evening. But with a completely independent manufacture of such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.
Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6 initially made a splash due to its compactness when folded and the possibility of using it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the latch of the swivel support was the simplest, from a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the thickness of the support to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed on a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry the countertop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, without a hodgepodge with meatballs and mashed potatoes on trousers and the floor, such tables could not do, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical lock turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising design, to which a special section will be devoted further in this publication.
Wall-mounted folding tables, (pos. 7), are occasionally found in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are used to doing everything standing up, even sleeping on the carpet in front of the authorities, because. have all the shortcomings of book tables with little or no room for improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used much more often on the farm, but this is a separate class of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to mentioning them.
Technological subtleties and innovations
The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage during drying: oak, hornbeam, wenge, laminated chipboard, MDF. Ordinary commercial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack even when impregnated and under varnish. On the other hand, the size of the kitchen table is small. From this follow some features of its manufacture, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.
table top
This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a finished postforming tabletop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard with rounded ribs, finished to look like wood or other material. The advantages of postforming in relation to the kitchen table are as follows:
Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But unlike the example, tabletops cohesive from boards look more solid, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Rallying boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work; for this, special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try your hand at making solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:
How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:
How to make a shield kitchen table top:
How to make a tabletop from the end cuts of a tree:
In the last video, the material is junk, but the appearance can be achieved - the cool oligarchs will salivate.
Dowels, confirmations and dowels
Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, we recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because. often break. Joints with wooden dowels are usually glued.
It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for a dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to redo an incorrectly marked dowel connection, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products on furniture euroscrews - confirmations. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because. the hole for confirmation in both parts, compressed by a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.
Details made of laminated chipboard or dense thin-layer wood, connected by confirmers, last for many years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:
- Use exactly furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first sight: in furniture slots for a hexagon, and in plumbing for a Phillips screwdriver.
- The diameter of the body of the confirmation without thread when fastened to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
- The height of the neck of the confirmation must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
- The depth of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
- The hole (blind hole) for confirmation is drilled to its full length with a head.
- The main drill should only be used with a twist drill for wood.
- The main drill must be filled into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
- Holes for confirmations should be drilled with a main drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmation on the thread.
In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:
- By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmant without thread;
- There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirmations, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, you can determine the required size. It is better to immediately open the pictures on request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
- We are looking for a point of sale where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
- We say: "I need so much of such and such a size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.
And a little more about dowels. It is best to put a detachable (freely imposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a rounded head or dowels with a hat and various types of corrugation on the long recessed and short protruding parts are produced, see fig. on right. Thick worktops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.
Different tables
Classic
Classic tables on the underframe along with the legs (item 1 in the figure) are traditionally connected (assembled) on tongue-and-groove joints, which is rather complicated and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the section of the heads of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for head balusters, usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions in plan up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection with wood screws obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer faces of the tsarg should be 1.5 cm from the outer surfaces of the leg caps, which is necessary for overall strength. The minimum allowable height of the kitchen table tsarg is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.
It is highly desirable to reinforce the oblique connection with self-tapping screws with diagonal ties in the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the drawers. If the countertop is not supposed to be removed without extreme necessity, then the time-consuming putting it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, cuts of the same board - crackers - are cut into the drawers and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.
The tabletop of a classic table with detachable legs should be at least 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Worktops made of other materials, e.g. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe along with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between their thermal expansion modules and wood, the table will soon loosen.
Further, the drawers are attached to the countertop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with carpentry glue or PVA. With the help of conventional wood screws, it is difficult to achieve accurate assembly, because. they are without a neck that holds the joint from displacement.
The next moment - the jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are necessary, wooden mortise or ready-made steel invoices. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual way, on the right in fig.
Desk drawer
A drawer is a classic constructive module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the drawer of the table are taken the same as for the drawers of the nightstand, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load is not expected in this case, and the smoothness of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.
The device of a furniture box is shown on the left in fig. It is not necessary to assemble its tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the side of the box is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fixed with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front side of the table or go flush into it, it doesn't matter.
To install the drawer in the table, in the longitudinal front drawer, an opening is cut out according to the dimensions of the cross section of the drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides for the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed for attaching the guides. They are attached to the longitudinal sides from the inside with the help of backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it to the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. rail parts, push the box into place, that's all.
Very simple
A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the section of the tsarg is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Tabletop - any weight up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second is transverse screeds made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already a beam.
Beam
Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The tabletop is structurally any, it is placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with a tabletop made of solid wood. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.
In this product, the lower dressing (longitudinal screed) with a beveled through groove for the wedge may seem like a stumbling block to a beginner. In fact, everything is very simple: the bottom dressing is assembled on glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How beam kitchen tables of this type are made, you can watch the following video:
Video: do-it-yourself table by components
The table, the drawings of which are below in the figure, has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm or more, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided under the tabletop, and it can also be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the tabletop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the tabletop for cleaning. So is it rustic or modern, is it a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.
Without pedestal
Factory kitchen tables without table tops are usually produced with postforming worktops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under a wooden tabletop will face the following tricks.
First, a table-top is still needed, from a wooden bar from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that the mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 fastening points of the leg clip must be tense approximately the same, otherwise the fastening will loosen by itself. The strapping from the beam expands the stress fan in this place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace the continuous strapping with corner plates, there will be no sense from them.
The second is the material of the countertop. The standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (item 3) are designed for chipboard or dense thin-layered wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. layered rather soft wood, then the nests can, having broken the layers, crawl back already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone inadvertently pushes the table is close to 100%.
And the third - the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without understands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy ready-made with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a kit for self-assembly at retail.
Books and cheburashki
The shortcomings of the table-book of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. On fig. below is a drawing of the design of the book-table (conditionally shown is only one swivel support without the wings of the tabletop), eliminating them amateurishly, but effectively. Simply, the width of the swivel support is more than doubled compared to the wing span of the tabletop (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it has become comfortable to sit as you like. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the top bar of the support comes out of the simplest latch (see above), the knees must be pulled up so that it will be very uncomfortable. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, the swivel supports must be brought down in height to the floor level.
A fundamentally similar solution was also used in the wall-mounted folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support already works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezium converging downwards.
A proprietary solution to the problems of a table-book is detachable legs stored in a cabinet. Putting them up is not much more troublesome than catching the latch on the table top with a swivel support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no latch, because. it's just not needed.
The next step in the evolution of the book table is a design with a cabinet of greater width and 1 leg for each wing of the tabletop. The legs are half the size, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always lacking in the kitchen).
Consumers liked such kitchen tables so much that they were already given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, built, and finally built." Folding kitchen table, as it should be.
Alternative
If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don’t need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can also eat on it. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes beyond the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into a functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-meter kitchenette in the bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9-meter Brezhnevka kitchen. Can't believe it? Let's count.
The kitchen table does not stand on its own. To land the eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table of 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m of "living space", and the table is 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 sq. m. It is very, very difficult to push such a thick slice into a kitchen of ordinary sizes without crushing the functional triangle softly. Here, even if two people sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not violated, and the hostess is just a stone's throw away.
One of the famous culinary specialists once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our stomach, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometimes there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.
Who said that a table is a simple piece of furniture? In fact, creating a table is a fascinating activity, especially with your own hands made of natural wood. Today, in a review of our editors, we will tell you how to make a wooden table with your own hands, what knowledge you need to have in order for your design to serve for many years without any complaints.
Ideas for making a wooden table with your own hands: photos, recommendations, drawings and step-by-step instructions
Before getting to work, it is important to decide on the following points:
- Dimensions and operating conditions. The functionality and additional measures that will need to be taken will depend on this.
- Find (draw) a plan.
- Choice of material and accessories.
For a novice master, it is better to choose simpler sketches. Here are some sketches you might find useful.
Related article:
Photo examples, drawings, schemes, materials; features of the manufacture of furniture for the garden, nursery, baths, gazebos, advice and recommendations of the masters - read in our publication.
Wooden table for summer cottage and home: choice of material
It is best to use natural wood. Even old boards are suitable for an experienced craftsman. A few movements with a planer and now - the raw materials for work are ready. The prepared wood must be dried.
Tools needed to create a wooden table with your own hands
For manufacturing, for example, you will need a minimum set of hand tools: a hacksaw, a hammer, a miter box, a screwdriver, nails, screws, a tape measure or ruler, a square and a pencil.
Related article:
DIY wood table: drawings, photos and step-by-step instructions
For work, you can use both solid boards and. Review old furniture, you may find materials that can be used.
Making a round wooden table
Let's look at the process of making a simple round table from boards for a summer residence. We need ordinary boards and slats to secure the structure.
Important! Before starting work, the boards must be processed with a planer and sandpaper.
| Illustration | Action Description |
 | We lay out the processed boards in the sequence in which we will bring down the table. In our case, they have grooves and we will connect them according to the tenon-groove system. |
 | We connect the boards with the help and squeeze with clamps. The clamps can be removed after 24 hours. |
 | With the help of bars we increase the countertop. Next, on the resulting shield, find the center and, using a compass or auxiliary means (nail, twine and pencil), draw a circle with a diameter of 1000 mm. |
 | Next, with the help, cut out a circle along the outlined contour. |
 | Sanding the work surface. |
 | We will make the legs from bars 4 × 4 cm in size. We process them with a grinder. |
 | We fasten the legs to the corners. |
 | Here we have such a simple table for giving. |
Related article:
: photos of the stages of work, the advantages and disadvantages of such beds, their varieties, as well as a step-by-step master class on the manufacture of such structures, how to choose the right mattress for beds from pallets - in our publication.
How to make a wooden kitchen table
A very simple and stylish table can be obtained by spending literally one evening at.
By the way, this model is very popular, if you want the same for your kitchen, you can make it yourself.
And here is another option for making a simple kitchen table with your own hands -
Photo gallery of various handmade wooden tables
For example, we suggest exploring several options for wooden tables for different rooms in our photo gallery.
1 of 8
A folding table is a very convenient and useful item in everyday life. Many owners complain about the small area of their apartments, respectively, they do not have the opportunity to put a large table in the kitchen. This problem is effectively solved by purchasing folding models. It is worth noting that they are ideal for trips and picnics in nature.
The folding table is lightweight and compact in size, which allows it to be easily folded into the trunk of a car.
Varieties
This piece of furniture comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. They differ in the shape of the tabletop (round, square, oval, rectangular), material (wood, metal, and combinations thereof), as well as the method of folding.
The most popular type of folding tables is wooden. If you want to make it as light and easy to transport as possible, then install an inexpensive chipboard countertop.
The easiest way to fold at tables with cruciform legs. When folding, the dimensions of the structure change, but it does not disassemble itself. In addition, there are fully collapsible products. To create them, threaded fasteners are used.
If you want to make a round table with your own hands, then you need to shape the tabletop before fixing it. This will greatly simplify the assembly process.
Preparatory work
If you decide to figure out how to make a folding table with your own hands, then first evaluate your capabilities. Masters who do not have impressive experience should give preference to the simplest models with cruciform legs.
The dimensions of the table are selected depending on your own needs. It is important to consider the maximum possible load and operating conditions.
At home, it is easier to create a table made of wood. For countertops, chipboard would be the best option. You will also need tools for work:
- Electric jigsaw;
- Level;
- Paint brushes;
- Ruler / tape measure;
- Hammer, screwdriver;
- Sander (sandpaper).
The latter is recommended for use only by experienced craftsmen. Everyone else should give preference to ordinary sandpaper. Of course, using it will slow down the process of creating a table a little. But the product will turn out to be of high quality and beautiful.
For work, you need wooden bars measuring 2 x 4.5 centimeters. If you plan to make a large table, then you can order parts 3 x 5 centimeters. As for the length, it ranges from one to five meters.
The material is cut into pieces of the desired size in accordance with the drawings of the folding table. Boards for countertops, it is desirable to use thick (at least 4 centimeters) and durable.
Assembly
To connect the bars, you need bolts and screws. Their length is selected in accordance with the thickness of the selected materials. Bolts are used to connect the legs, self-tapping screws - to fix the foot supports.
Initially, you need to cut the right amount of bars. It is advisable to make them a little larger in size than originally planned. The dimensions of the hole must also exceed the dimensions of the fasteners. For example, for M4 bolts, the hole diameter should be at least five millimeters.
Each part after trimming must be processed with a grinder or sandpaper. To extend the period of operation, they are coated with a protective compound (paint or varnish).
It is important to securely fasten the foot supports (four pieces). They are at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the "goats" (folding legs with crossbars at the bottom). For this, ordinary self-tapping screws are used.
Three pieces are required for each support. The distance between them should correspond to the size of the bar from which the "goats" are made.
To understand what the finished design looks like, find on the Internet a photo of a folding table with your own hands. So you will understand what result you should get in the end.
All parts are connected with bolts. They are placed in the through central holes of the bars. It is not recommended to tighten them too much. The axle must be allowed to rotate freely. "Goats" are fixed to the tabletop by bolted connections. Foot supports must be attached to them in advance.
If you are worried that the axial fastening will loosen over time and fail due to constant folding / unfolding, then use locknuts.
If you want to make a compact table, then remove the bolts that combine the goats and footrests. It is allowed to pick up one or two bolts. Practice shows that it is not worth tightening the fasteners in these areas.
Reliable fastening and tightening of bolts require only foot supports. This is due to the fact that they guarantee the normal installation of the legs.
DIY folding table photo
Natural wood is an attractive, but not the cheapest material. Making a wooden table with your own hands is more profitable than choosing a finished model (and in some cases easier than finding a table that would fit the rest of the situation). Due to the absence of manufacturing costs, you can afford not to save on the quality of raw materials.
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What kind of table can you make yourself?
Tables vary in design. Almost any model can be assembled by yourself with some woodworking skills, the right tools and instructions.
The complexity of manufacturing is determined by the purpose, shape and size of the table. From the “technological” side, any table consists of two structural parts: the upper part (the tabletop itself) and the legs.
Table types
Before you make a table with your own hands, you should decide on a suitable model and its features. The choice of materials (solid wood or chipboard), finishes, as well as the set of tools that will be required for work will depend on the type of table.
A table on a single support is usually made with a rounded top.
Note!
Models on two legs, connected by a jumper for greater stability, are considered the most convenient.
The easiest way is to make a "classic" table on four legs - reliable and "understandable". At the same time, special attention is paid to the legs. In case of inconsistencies and errors during work, the upper part of the table can be hidden under the tablecloth, but the legs of the table will instantly “give out” hack work.
Types of countertops
The shape of the countertop is selected depending on the style of the room where the piece of furniture is planned to be placed. A round wooden table is suitable for a spacious rustic or Scandinavian style kitchen (the space should be large enough so that the furniture does not interfere with free movement). An oval table is a convenient option for a dining room. Small countertops of the same shape look great on or coffee tables.
Rectangular and wooden countertops are the easiest to make, and besides, this is a universal form suitable for any interior and a table of any functionality. In the same format, tables of complex designs are usually made, folding, portable or multifunctional. For example, if there is not enough space in the room, but a large number of guests are planned to be placed at the table from time to time, a compact assembled book table would be a good solution, which, if necessary, can be quickly turned into a dining table (by raising both “wings”) or a work table (by unfolding one side of the table).
Tools for the job
The full list of tools depends on the table format, as well as on the material chosen for work. In most cases you will need:
- or saw;
- or a screwdriver (and various drills for them);
- connecting elements (nails, screws and the like);
- wood sanding machine and;
- means for measuring and marking (pencil, ruler or tape measure);
- protective equipment during work (gloves and goggles).
It is unacceptable to work “by eye” according to approximate calculations - the result will turn out to be far from the desired one. You will also need drawings with the dimensions of each element of the table.
Table top material: chipboard
The thickness of a sheet of such material is usually 16 or 18 mm. For a dining table with massive legs, chipboard can be thin - the design will look disproportionate. It's best to splice two sheets of topping together to give the countertop "thickness". Along the perimeter of the tabletop, they are treated with an edge. The material is sold in hardware stores, it is most often made of plastic, and on one side it is covered with an adhesive base.
The edge on the tabletop is fixed with an iron. The edge is ironed with strong pressure and slowly enough so that the glue has time to melt. You will have to control the degree of melting by looking under the edge of the countertop - the composition will protrude from under the edge and slightly change color. A chipboard table with such an edge, if properly installed, will last a long time.
Wooden table
Table top material: wood
Solid wood is the most expensive of the materials, but also the most durable. It is better to choose hardwood for the table. The best option in terms of price-quality ratio would be a beech or a tree similar to it. Finishing the edge of the tabletop is a curly rail or a baguette. Wood is usually chosen for massive tables, the thickness of the tabletop (and the array) should be about 4.5-5 cm.
It is worth considering the peculiarity of natural wood: over time, it cracks, reacting to changes in humidity and temperature. When assembling the table, it is worth attaching a plywood “gasket” from a 10mm sheet under the main table top (the dimensions of the sheet should be 10 cm smaller than the dimensions of the table). It is on plywood with this design that the legs of the furniture will be attached. The table is guaranteed not to fall apart "from old age" even if the wood of the countertop cracks and requires restoration.
Countertop material: boards
Boards are an intermediate material for countertops both in terms of price and aesthetics. A plank table is suitable for a country house or country-style interior, and it is easier to assemble than a solid wood model.
For work, most often choose boards made of spruce or pine. Oak, walnut or birch boards are less commonly used. Their thickness should be the same, the length can be adjusted during the manufacture of the table.
Assembling the base model of the table
First, a frame is prepared that will hold the remaining elements. Four boards of equal length are placed at the same distance. Perpendicular to them lay out the end parts. The base is fixed with screws (self-tapping screws, nails or analogues). To make the frame stiffer and stronger, the other two sides are also reinforced with boards.
The tabletop is made of boards of equal length and width, which are fixed on the base.
Note!
The legs (in the basic version - ordinary blocks of wood) are fixed to the same nails or screws.
The final finishing of the table is carried out after assembly. Boards need to be sanded with a special machine or several types of sandpaper, if desired, the table is covered with stain, varnish or paint.
DIY table
Complex designs: folding picnic table
The folding table differs from the basic model primarily in the design of the legs. This part is technically the most difficult, however, it can be done "at home".
For the legs, you will need to prepare wooden bars (you need to leave a small “allowance” along the length). Any type of material is suitable for the countertop. In the event that the table is planned to be moved, it is worth choosing light and durable - for example, lacquered plywood or wood.
The saw cuts are edged, the legs and jumpers are rounded or cut at a right angle and polished (with a machine or sandpaper).
Folding table
How to assemble a folding table?
The legs are fastened with a bolt (not longer than 3.5 cm). The table is assembled according to the following scheme:
- fasten the legs and supporting elements;
- on the countertop, the attachment points of the support are marked (self-tapping screws are used for fastening);
- all structural elements are numbered to simplify the final assembly;
- final grinding of all surfaces is carried out;
- parts are covered with a protective compound;
- the table is going "clean".
Making a folding table with your own hands is ultimately no more difficult than assembling a basic model, although this will require accuracy in calculations and exact adherence to the drawings.
How to make a wooden table with your own hands video:
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