The hedgerow: haircut (text and video). Cutting a hedge - what and how, recommendations, useful tips Deciduous hedge
In order for the hedge to please the eye with its fresh green and neat appearance, it is necessary to regularly cut it. Haircut not only gives the hedge a neat decorative look, but also contributes to the formation of a denser crown, increased growth of lateral branches and leaves of plants.
Newly planted hedges from young plants in the first two years need a single annual shearing, which is carried out in early spring or late autumn.
In the future, the number of haircuts per season can be increased, if necessary, up to 2-3 times a year.
Many plants require two haircuts per season: the first - in July or August, the second - in October-March.
Branches growing to the sides are sheared strongly, and growing upwards - weakly. When the hedges reach the required height, upper part also heavily pruned. This group includes some barberries, beech, all types and varieties of cotoneaster, some types of cypress, Japanese euonymus, junipers, pyrocantha, rosemary, snowberry, tamarix, all types of arborvitae, yew. 
Cut the hedges, starting from the base and moving up. The blade of the scissors is held obliquely to the bush so that the plants descend to the top of the cone. With a hedge height of more than 1.5 m, you need to use a stand, since it is very difficult to cut with raised hands.
During flowering, plants do not cut. 
Pruning requires a firm hand and a sharply sharpened tool - then the cuts will be even and smooth, and will be able to quickly overgrow. It is better to cut hedges and borders with special garden scissors with long blades and long handles; secateurs are used to trim dry branches. 
Trimming must be carried out along a tightly stretched cord, otherwise gaps, too deep cuttings or irregularities cannot be avoided. Sometimes branches too thick come across in the plane of the haircut so as not to spoil the scissors, in this case it is better to use a garden file or pruner. 
The first stage - pruning plants
Plants with a poorly formed crown are cut to half the length. The branches of well-formed mature plants are cut by a third. Such pruning is done the next season after planting. So, if the plants were planted in the spring, then the first pruning is carried out in the fall. 
The second stage - the formation of a hedge
The goal of shaping is to give the hedge the desired profile and increase the density of the branches. Often, when cutting a hedge, they strive to give it a regular rectangular cut shape with flat tops and sides. In this case, it is desirable that the height of the hedge be much greater than the width, otherwise the lower shoots lack light, become bare and die. The most natural forms of shearing are rounded or trapezoidal profiles with a wider base at the bottom, then all the shoots of the plant develop in good light conditions and the hedge retains a beautiful well-groomed appearance for a long time. 
The first formative cutting of a deciduous hedge is carried out in the second year after planting. In young plants, no more than a third of the annual growth of shoots is cut; in mature plants, the growth rate of shoots is lower, so the branches are cut off to half the growth. Unnecessary length is removed by making an oblique cut over a well-developed kidney. Proper shearing stimulates the growth of new branches with larger leaves.
When forming rectangular shapes, the branches on the sides of the hedge should be cut deeper than at the top. It is very important to carry out sanitary pruning in a timely manner - cut dry old weak branches, as well as shoots affected by pests.
If the fence has lost its decorative effect, measures are taken to rejuvenate it. In this case, a rejuvenating haircut is carried out, which includes two stages: the first year, a deep haircut is carried out only on one side, retreating 10 cm from the trunk, in the second year, a deep haircut is carried out on the opposite side.
Trimming and pruning plants used as hedges or for decorating walls and arbors not only makes them look well-groomed, but also contributes to their good growth.
What is the difference between shearing and trimming ornamental crops
All plants for hedges can be conditionally divided into two groups:
- Requiring formation. That is, maintaining a certain shape in order to improve the decorative qualities. These crops include deciduous and coniferous shrubs or trees that begin to form from the first year of planting: yew, hawthorn, boxwood, forsythia, thuja, cotoneaster, privet.
- Free-growing - this group includes erect flowering and deciduous shrubs, climbing vines: ivy, clematis, common bindweed, parthenocissus, climbing rose, hops.
The formation of bushes for each group of plants is excellent. A hedge of a certain shape, in addition to annual pruning, needs regular shearing, during which the plant is given the correct geometric shape.
Artistic haircut, which includes curly (topiary), trapezoidal and rounded, is a true art of landscape design. With its help, plants can be given any, even the most intricate shape. To form such a fence, you will need a special tool - manual or electric scissors, as well as certain knowledge and skills.
Pruning free-growing plants encourages the growth of additional side branches, and makes the hedge more dense. The methods and frequency of pruning depends on the type of plants and the nature of their growth.
Rules and schemes for the formation of a hedge with a haircut
In the first year, hedge bushes are cut short, leaving 1/3 of the length of the branches of seedlings. Do this after the plant has taken root. After shearing, the bushes give a lot of young shoots, which will later become the frame of the hedge.
In the future, the plants are cut in spring and summer. Spring shearing is carried out in April, leaving the growth of young branches by 2/3, and in fast-growing shrubs - 1/2. In the same period, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.
Formative cutting of hedges is carried out with a slight slope from top to bottom. This is clearly seen in the diagram, figure on the right.
The main task of a summer haircut is to shape the bush. Cut out shoots that stand out from the overall composition. For flowering crops, such a haircut should be carried out after flowering, in late summer or autumn. And for a fast-growing hedge, you will need two or even 3 summer shaping haircuts.
AT full height a hedge of a certain shape grows in 4-5 years, after which the haircut is carried out more radically. The annual growth of shoots is cut off, leaving a stump of a few centimeters.
Flowering hedge trimming
AT landscape design to create a hedge successfully used curly flowering plants. Among them, climbing roses, clematis, common bindweed, curly honeysuckle are the most popular. With proper care and pruning, the fence of them will be strewn with bright colors all summer long. large flowers.
Climbing rose pruning
Climbing rose shoots are very flexible, and can reach up to 6 m in length. Annual rose pruning contributes to a long and abundant flowering. Even one season without removing excess branches will lead to thickening of the bush, shrinking flowers, and loss of decorativeness of the plant.
In summer, young shoots will form on the bush, and flowers will form on last year's shoots. During this period, it is necessary to tie up young shoots to supports in time, and immediately cut off faded flowers, stimulating the blooming of new buds. Also in the summer, restraining pruning is carried out when the space allocated for the rose is limited. In this case, the number of main stems is normalized, and extra ones are removed during the summer. side shoots.
In autumn, in September or October, the faded shoots of this year are shortened by 3-4 buds (up to a level of 15 cm from the ground). Poorly developed and growing inside young shoots should be cut to the base.
In the spring, you can clearly see which shoots overwintered successfully, and which ones died. In the first case, the color of the branches will be light green, and in the second, brown. Frozen shoots are cut to the first living bud. The cut is made at an acute angle so that the kidney remains at the top of the cut.
Adults climbing roses trimming may be needed. During it, all branches are cut, leaving 15-20 cm above the soil level. Such a bush is restored quite quickly, and in a year the fence will again be entwined with young shoots with numerous flowers.
Clematis - pruning rules
With proper care and pruning, clematis forms lush bushes and does an excellent job as a hedge. Pruning rules for clematis different groups will differ.
The order of pruning clematis depends on its species group. Depending on the required pruning, clematis are divided into groups. in the following way:
- Group A, varieties - Zhakmana, Vititsella, Integrifolia, Six-petalled, Texas. They form flowers only on the shoots of this year;
- Group B, varieties - Lanuginosa, Florida, Patens, Armanda, Gorny. In the spring, clematis of this group throw out flowers on last year's shoots, and in summer the shoots of this year continue to bloom.
- Group C, varieties are colorful, sprawling - Montana, Lazurtern, Nelly Moser, Henry. These include clematis, which form flowers on last year's shoots.
Group A clematis are cut short every year in autumn, leaving 2-3 buds above ground level. In summer, these plants need regulatory and sanitary pruning, during which damaged and improperly growing shoots are removed.
Pruning clematis group B is the most time-consuming. It is held twice a season. First cut - after spring flowering on last year's shoots, which are cut almost to the base, leaving 1-2 buds. The second pruning is after summer flowering (in autumn). During it, unripened and damaged young stems are removed, leaving 3-5 powerful branches, which are shortened to a height of 1-1.5 m.
Group C clematis need annual light pruning immediately after flowering, which is carried out by cutting out the generative ( bearing flowers) part of the stem. These types of clematis grow very quickly and need restraint pruning throughout the growing season.
After 5-6 years, all types of clematis need rejuvenating pruning, when in spring all the stems are cut to the base. Full flowering of such bushes will come in a year.
Common bindweed pruning
For landscaping hedges, gardeners often grow bindweed. It grows very quickly, entwining everything in its path. Shoots it must be constantly sent to the right place.
Pruning bindweed takes place in several stages:
- Pinching a sprout when its length reaches 30-40 cm.
- Pinching side shoots when they are sufficiently developed (30-40 cm long).
- Regular pruning of wilted flowers to stimulate the formation of new shoots.
- In the second half of summer, all bindweed shoots are shortened by half, after which the plant grows with renewed vigor.
curly honeysuckle
One of the most unpretentious plants for the hedge is curly decorative honeysuckle: Honeysuckle, Brown, Telman. Pruned with honeysuckle in spring, in March or in autumn, in October. Remove all broken and unsuccessfully growing shoots.
Formative pruning of the bush is carried out in May. At the same time, all shoots growing to the side are shortened, leaving 7-10 cm. Regulate the growth of honeysuckle curly pruning all unwanted growth during the growing season. Without pruning, the vine looks unkempt, grows rapidly, braiding houses, trees, and suppressing the growth of neighboring plants.
Five - seven year old vines are cut more radically, cutting out the old lashes to the base and leaving 3-5 of the youngest of them. This procedure has a positive effect on the development of honeysuckle - the bushes become more lush, and the flowers become large.
Old honeysuckle bushes, from 15-20, can regain their former beauty with anti-aging pruning, cutting off all above-ground part early spring or late autumn. The same applies to those bushes that have not been properly cared for for a long time. Recovering curly honeysuckle after full pruning very quickly, giving numerous, fast-growing young shoots.
Pruning fast growing vines
You can create a dense green hedge with the help of powerful fast growing vines- girlish grapes, ivy or hops.
Girlish grapes grow rapidly, capturing and wrapping around everything in their path, so you can’t do without shaping and restraining pruning when growing it.
Restrain the growth of wild grapes by cutting the lashes at the required height throughout the summer. Also in the summer, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing damaged and diseased shoots. It is worth remembering that after pruning, the growth of wild grapes is enhanced.
It is very important to ensure that the lashes of girlish grapes do not spread on the ground. They quickly take root and give new shoots. Moreover, the growth of its root system is also aggressive, therefore it is not recommended to plant wild grapes near other garden and ornamental crops.
Shaping and pruning ivy
With the help of such a creeper as ivy, you can create hedges up to 6 m high. It easily tolerates shaping and rejuvenating pruning, after which it moves to growth with renewed vigor.
After planting, ivy seedlings are pinched, thereby stimulating the growth of side shoots. All subsequent years, ivy is pruned to maintain a neat appearance of the vine:
- Cut out sideways growing shoots;
- Broken and shrunken branches are cut to the base;
- To limit growth, the shoots are shortened to the required length. The cut is made over the kidney;
- Bare branches are cut "on a stump" up to 50-70 cm high, the awakening of dormant buds on which will give new strong shoots.
Hop pruning
Such a liana as hops is known to many gardeners. It grows rapidly, forming a dense hedge.
Hop pruning is carried out in early spring, cutting out all dead stems at ground level. When the young growth reaches 50-60 cm in height, it is thinned out, leaving only 3-5 of the most powerful shoots, the rest are cut out at the base. The length of the hop lashes can reach 12-15 m, so it also needs to be adjusted by cutting the lashes at the right height.
Outcome
Mowing and trimming hedges - milestones care that is necessary to maintain decorativeness. Thanks to the described procedures, the plants develop well and look well-groomed. The timing, techniques and regularity of pruning depend on biological features cultivated crops.
The phenomenon, popular all over the world, is available to every person. You just need to learn how to properly grow bushes.
Purpose and forms
This is very effective remedy not only in, but also in the working plan. It can perform many functions. First of all, you have the opportunity to isolate yourself from the annoying glances of passers-by.
From what form the hedge is given, it is divided into:
Each profile is created by different instruments and types. For example, a rectangular shape can be created using views. If they are light-loving, then with this form of the bush, the lower leaves may die off.
If you want to achieve the shape of a triangle, then you need to trim the bushes at 80 ° on both sides. The most optimal is a trapezoid hedge, as it allows all leaves and shoots to receive optimal amount sunlight, which means it suits many types.
A circle of plants is the most difficult to create, it requires the possession of certain skills. Therefore, this form is most rarely resorted to, although it looks very harmonious on any site.
If the territory of the cottage allows, then you can organize the second type - a freely growing hedge. Its width, unlike the previous one, can reach up to 3 m. 
Such hedges are created from plants that do not tolerate a haircut. Instead, they take on their aesthetics - beautifully growing, which are large and bright.
All this gives the site a solemn look. Usually planted, given the color of the leaves or themselves and creating a unique palette of colors.
Did you know? In Europe, parks with figures made in the form of animals, people and geometric shapes began to appear during the Renaissance.
How often to cut?
A free-growing hedge can only be trimmed once a year or 2, just to trim the bushes. This is also necessary to stimulate flowering. Although this procedure can not be done at all.
As for the sheared type of hedges, then, of course, everything is a little more complicated. In the early years, it is necessary to carry out a haircut 1 time for the whole. It happens early autumn or late spring.
So the plant will rapidly gain height, much faster than with a single haircut. It is necessary to follow the fence, and then you yourself will understand when you need to cut the bushes - with the loss of clear lines of the figure and the appearance of young shoots. 
If you planted a plant in the fall, then you will have to cut it for the first time in the spring of next year. If it has been growing on the site since spring or summer, then you will have to cut it off after you have planted it.
If the hedge consists of, then you should not cut it. This can be done no more than once a year, then in order for it to grow better.
Pruning shrubs in groups
Robert Marklay - German garden expert - subdivided into special groups. This was necessary in order to facilitate the understanding of which plants and in what period should be pruned. 
First
The first group includes those that do not require cutting bushes in the spring. This is because this group contains mainly such specimens that have a low ability to regenerate, respectively, they need to be cut less often.
In addition to a long period of growth, the plant is extremely difficult to tolerate the wounds inflicted on it. It is enough to cut only old branches so as not to harm the bushes.
The first group includes plants such as, laurel cherry.
Second
The second group includes those that begin to bloom earlier than the rest. Pruning in such cases is carried out after the end of the flowering period.
The process is to remove old flowers. Thus, you will give rise to new ones. There is no need to carry out any additional procedures.
Important! If you prune shrubs of the second type in early spring, they will not produce flowers, as there were buds on the cut shoots.
It is necessary to trim the faded branches by one third. This approach will contribute to abundant flowering. Be careful not to cut branches at the same height each year.If you do this, the branch will become compacted and a painful outgrowth will appear on it. It will not allow the plant to release new shoots from below.
The second group includes, kolkvitsia, early flowering, as well.
The second group formed a small addition: subgroup 2a. It included those shrubs that need total cutting. These include gorse, etc.
Usually, after the flowering period, they need to be cut to the base, or to new shoots. So next year they will give lush flowers.
Third
The third group includes those hedges that have a late flowering period. If this happens, then this means that the buds and shoots were formed in the same year. 
— decoration of any site. However, such an ornament requires regular maintenance of its appearance, that is, cutting a hedge is a systematic and mandatory operation for every gardener. It is necessary not only to maintain the shape of the crown of the shrub, but also for better growth and plant health. Therefore, every amateur gardener should be able to do it with his own hands, and even more so a professional.
Hedge trimming depends on the age and type of plant, the season, and many other factors.
Let's dwell on the fundamental ones: you can cut only if and only so as not to interfere with flowering, not to expose lower part design and not spoil the shape of the leaves. These are the main criteria that apply to absolutely all structures and which should not be violated, otherwise plant health may be in jeopardy.
Live fencing can be sheared and unformed (free-growing). In addition, there are fences and height:
- low (the so-called borders, up to 0.5 m high);
- medium (0.5-1 m);
- high (1-2 m);
- walls (over 2 m).
In a free-growing fence, the natural features of plants are preserved in their natural form. The formed hedge is devoid of individuality of each individual element, all the plants in it are clipped of a certain, not natural and natural, but geometric or other shape. A living fence can consist of both hardwood and conifers. In each case, the haircut has its own characteristics. The tool for cutting, depending on the length, height, age and composition of the hedge, can be:
The scheme of cutting hedge shrubs: a, b, c - correct; d, d - incorrect.
- secateurs;
- special scissors;
- brush cutter;
- chainsaw.
Secateurs and clippers are best for young small hedges, as they cause less damage to plants and provide thoroughness. More mature or longer fences are cut with electric shears, brush cutters, chainsaws. In this case, it is important that the blades are evenly and well sharpened, otherwise you can injure and split the ends of the branches. To make it even, the haircut is carried out along a stretched cord or a special frame made of brightly colored wire.
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Stages of cutting branches
Newly planted hedges from young plants should be cut every year. Usually shearing is carried out in early spring or late autumn. In the future, depending on the actual need, the number of haircuts will be increased to 2-3 times a year. The first pruning usually occurs the next season after planting. But if the plants were planted in the spring, you can cut them already at the end of autumn. Haircut steps:
- pruning plants;
- hedge formation.
A poorly formed crown in plants is cut to half the length. If the branches of mature plants are well formed, then a third of their length is cut off. The incision is made oblique, preferably over a formed bud in mature plants. It is inappropriate to pity the plants in this case, since insufficient pruning of branches is fraught with the possibility of thinning thickets, exposing individual sections of the fence, and inaccurate growth. Only pruning on a stump and years of waiting will help correct such blunders. Therefore, you need to cut the hedge boldly, confidently, without fear, but also without fanaticism. Proper pruning will provide dense growth of vegetation and larger foliage that will reliably protect your household plot from the wind, prying eyes, dogs and strangers. Overcoming a well-formed hedge is almost impossible without special tools.
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Formation of a living fence
When the branches are shortened, it's time to start shaping - giving a hedge desired profile and increase the density of branches. Most often, it is a regular rectangular shape with flat tops and sides. The fact is that this form is the simplest, even a novice gardener can form it. It is easy to maintain and care for and is optimal for high wall growth. The only caveat for rectangular shape there is a recommendation that the height of the fence significantly exceed the width. This is necessary so that the lower shoots do not lack sunlight and do not die off. Also, the branches from the sides need to be cut more deeply than the branches at the top.
Other popular haircuts are trapezoidal or round, where the base of the bush is much wider than the top. This allows plants at all levels of the hedge to receive sunlight and actively develop, keeping a beautiful and well-groomed garden for a long time. appearance. For mature plants, a timely haircut is needed not only for decorative and preventive purposes, but also for sanitary purposes. Pruning old and weak, dry or pest-infested branches helps keep the entire fence healthy.
A haircut is also useful as a rejuvenating agent if the hedge has lost its decorative effect. In this case, circumcision is carried out in two stages: in the first year, deep cutting is done only on one side of the hedge at a distance of 10 cm from the trunk, the other side should be cut the next year. After any haircut, sanitary, anti-aging or annual, it is recommended to water the hedge abundantly, fertilize and cover the soil under it with peat, mowed grass or tree bark. This will contribute to a faster recovery of plants, their good nutrition and growth. When the hedge is fully formed in height and shape, it has to be cut much more often, since even a slight regrowth of branches spoils the profile of the hedge.
You can cut the hedge using stretched wire cords to hold the shape as much as possible. However, special frames are much more convenient. For a formed hedge, the correct observance of the form is extremely important. Typically, the cutting height is increased by 4-6 cm annually until the desired height level is reached. All of the above recommendations are general character, however, individual breeds have their own haircut nuances.
hedge trimming is a procedure that has a decisive influence on its formation and the desired shape. To make a fence made of live plants look well-groomed, you need to know the secrets proper care behind this element of the landscape.
For this it is necessary understand: how to choose the best date for pruning hedges, how to properly prune bushes so that new branches grow quickly, and the hedge itself is dense and healthy. You also need to understand the difference between pruning conifers and hardwood, as well as what tools to choose for comfortable pruning of plants.
planning arranging a hedge to protect your site from prying eyes, noise and a busy street, or to mask any places in the garden, such as a composter pit or garbage container, it is worth considering the care of the future hedge.
And for that to hedge coped with the protective and decorative function at the same time, it is necessary to fulfill the requirements for the systematic care of it if we want to get a great-looking fit.
When to cut a fence?
After planting bushes for hedges, many beginners are confused as to when and how to start the first pruning?
The first thing need to remember: do not be afraid of cropping. If done correctly, the plants will respond with rapid growth and lush branching.
But for this effect hedge should be pruned regularly. Otherwise, some species will lose their shape, which will worsen their decorative effect.
There are bushes, which can forgive the forgetfulness of gardeners, but there are those that immediately react to the lack of formative pruning. These species include evergreens, such as arborvitae or cypresses. If their crown is not formed even within one season, this will lead to excessive growth of new shoots in width and the inability to restore the previous shape.
Why is this happening? Timely pruning allows shrubs to form new growth points. In the absence of such a procedure, the woody parts of the bushes cannot independently form new growth buds, thanks to which the plant would create more branches and restore its original shape. At the same time, too much pruning can harm the plants, so you need to carefully monitor this event.
This rule does not apply to yew. This type of conifer is perfectly restored even after very strong pruning, restoring its shape after a season. It usually looks even better after a heavy pruning than before. This is due to the presence a large number dormant buds on the branches of the plant, which are quickly activated when necessary.
First shaping pruning should be carried out in the spring, when the danger of more severe frosts has passed. Young plants are cut at a height of 20-30 cm from the soil surface, regardless of whether it will be part of the hedge or just shrubs that grow in the garden area.
Such a procedure will to thickening the bushes from the very base, so that the future hedge will receive a beautiful, compact structure throughout its height.
Next trim hedges should be carried out at least once a year, resulting in a new growth of 2 to 30 cm, depending on what type of hedge we grow and how many seasons we are going to devote to its formation.
The best time for pruning March-April, when the plants are just starting to grow, and the weather is warm and sunny. This time is best for shaping activities, as it promotes rapid healing of wounds after pruning, which is especially important if we want to avoid a possible fight against fungal diseases.
During the season additional pruning can be carried out especially for fast-growing shrubs. The last pruning should, however, take place no later than the first decade of August, so that new shoots can become woody before winter. Otherwise, there is a high probability of freezing of the highest parts of the hedge.
Hedge Trimming Techniques
Regardless depending on what types of plants create a hedge, you should always start trimming the bushes on the sides. To make the pruning line as straight as possible, you must first align the side branches parallel with the topmost shoots, and then remove the extended branches in height so that they create one even plane.
If you use electric scissors, then the direction of movement should go from bottom to top, removing fragments of protruding side shoots, and then make a second pass to align the branches at the same level.
When work with the side parts finished, start trimming the top (the so-called ridge). You need to do this, holding the scissors horizontally, performing half-turns to the right and left with the torso.
Such an action will provide more uniform cut lines in the event of movement of the power tool. This will greatly facilitate any correction and prevent significant deviations in the plane of the cut.
At the end you need check the result of your work for the correspondence of the corners of the fence to what they should be. Align them if necessary. All cut branches and shoots are removed after pruning.
wood material
can be reused as organic fertilizers by sending them to compost pit, previously crushed in a crusher.
After forming trim multi-component fertilizer can be applied with high content nitrogen and monitor the sufficient level of humidity around the bushes. This will lead to rapid growth new shoots and a general improvement in the condition of the hedge.
Coniferous trees need more careful pruning, because not all coniferous trees tolerate pruning well. For these breeds, the appropriate pruning date is very important.
For hedges, the first pruning is important the following year after planting in order to root system strengthened.
Correct hedge structure
Correctly selected hedge shape is essential. There are plants for which it is important to maintain certain form, which improves the overall condition of the plants and depends on the growing position.
In places, heavily shaded, it is worth making sure that the fence has a trapezoidal cross-section.
Main benefits of this form is the uniform access of light to all tiers, which leads to uniform coloring of the leaves along the entire height of the side wall and its even growth.
Care in this case is to trim the side shoots of the plant regularly to keep the hedge in its proper shape.
If we want to have a fence with such a section, more than 3 meters high, then we need to choose a yew or an elm for this purpose.
In order to get hedge free-form, you can plant privet, barberry or even cherry laurel, but at the same time it is worth forming a crest of such a planting in the shape of an arch.
This form will do softer and softer, and the appearance of the garden, surrounded by such a hedge, will change significantly. This landing also needs to be extended slightly closer to the ground for the reasons mentioned earlier.
Formation of an arched shape in this case it takes a little more practice. But to make this event much easier, you can use a trimming form in the form of a light frame of arcuate polypropylene pipes, covered with a grid, which will be the defining plane for the slice level.
This method has been tested and has been practiced over the years by a large group of gardeners with a passion for both low and high hedge design. In the same way, rose gardens can be formed, which consist of bush or park roses.
Using templates you can successfully create not only hedges, but also cut individual bushes, creating garden architecture.
Hedge Trimming Tools
During hedge care you need to pick the right tools for cutting. pruning low hedges, consisting of perennial shrubs with thin branches, you can use garden shears, secateurs.
For sanitary pruning it is enough to use delimbers. And if the shrubs have thicker and lignified shoots, then garden pruners will help us cut dry or healthy branches at the base of the trunk. Except mechanical tools electric ones can also be used. Properly selected power tools will provide us with professional, fast and flawless pruning.
For shaping trim hedges, we need secateurs and garden shears.
Secateurs these are the most popular and sought-after tools that cut trees and shrubs. With secateurs you can:
- form a crown;
- remove dried branches and branches with a diameter of 20 mm to 25 mm;
- cut "wen" (unfruitful branches).
There are two types of secateurs on the market:
- with double-sided sharpening of blades;
- with one-sided sharpening of the blades, which is otherwise called bypass.
These secateurs differ in that a tool with double-sided sharpening is suitable for removing dry branches. And bypass secateurs are more suitable for caring for live branches.
Bilateral secateurs, make a severely traumatic cut. Their next disadvantage is the presence of the so-called anvil, in which the blade rests during operation, which limits the ability to get close to the base of the branch.
But these secateurs do not jam during operation, which is important for processing large areas.
Bypass secateurs have rounded blades that taper at the end. One blade serves as a support, the second - as a worker.
To make the cut neat and even, the tool is placed with the support blade down, and the worker up to that part of the trunk where the branch is removed.
Bypass secateurs divided by type:
- co step mechanism(which allows you to remove thick shoots up to 25 mm);
- with conventional fastening(when a branch is cut in one grip);
- on a tape spring (more reliable);
- on a helical spring.
Gardening scissors is another tool that gardeners use, but they are not suitable for pruning trees. Garden shears are used purposefully for the formation of hedges, separately growing bushes in landscape gardening architecture, low conifers. Garden shears are the main tool in topiary art.
Outwardly and in principle Scissors work like a classic tool, but have long sharpened blades and the same handles. When working with them, both hands are always involved. Garden shears are suitable for cutting branches, leaves, needles.
Gardening scissors divided according to the classification of work performed:
- for the formation of a hedge from coniferous or deciduous species;
- for trimming conifers (use wavy blades, for improved fixation of needles);
- for curly cutting herbaceous plants;
- for use in hard-to-reach places where the lawnmower does not fit.
Gardening scissors are mechanical or electrical. When choosing this tool, you need to pay attention to:
- blade quality;
- sharpening;
- a gap between them (ideally, it should not be);
- convenience of handles;
- operating time (if the tool is powered by batteries);
- manufacturer's brand.
And for those who want to know more, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video on pruning hedges