Sheared trees. Secrets of curly cutting trees and shrubs

A hedge of shrubs is the very highlight, thanks to which the landscape of a private territory is being transformed. Its purpose is to shelter the yard from prying eyes and zoning the site. A beautiful impenetrable fence is obtained from plants with different lengths and heights.

What is the reason for the popularity of bushes as a material for a living fence? The designers claim that the bush fence can be formed in the form of a low curb or a long dense fence up to 3 m high. Its shape is arbitrary or obtained by correcting the vegetation.

Bushes are a great way to achieve various economic goals, for example:

1. Land zoning.
2. Arrangement of a curb at garden paths.
3. Emphasis on certain areas of the territory.
4. The division of the courtyard is internal and external.
5. Protection of the yard from street noise, dust and curious passers-by.

There is no limit to design fantasies when creating a living fence. With the help of a haircut, bushes can be given any shape. The vegetation stretches up and out and hides an old picket fence under it. And if it is planted in different variations of height, splendor and flowering period, the owner will be able to enjoy the updated landscape from spring to the first frost. To do this, it is necessary to plant shrubs in one or two or more rows.

What plants can you make a hedge with your own hands

For self-planting a beautiful hedge, it is recommended to use unpretentious and shade-tolerant shrubs. This rule must be observed when organizing multi-row hedges. To create a fence of a specific shape, it is important to find bushes that "love" a haircut. Also, when choosing vegetation, it is necessary to pay attention to the shape of the crown and the growth rate of the representative of the flora. Up the bushes stretch 10 cm - 6 m.

Shade Tolerant Bushes

Such specimens are suitable for creating hedges and arbors. They still need the sun's rays, but their difference lies in the ability to tolerate shade. According to this criterion, the bushes are divided into shade-tolerant and shade-loving.

Representatives of shade-tolerant bushes are:

low growing greens

They speak of short stature if the shrubs grow by 0.5 - 1 m. The low flora is suitable for decorating paths with borders and zoning the site.

decorative bushes

The leaves, diverse in color and shape, distinguish decorative bushes against the background of their “brothers”. The foliage retains an attractive appearance throughout the warm months. A combination of evergreen and deciduous plants is possible. Flora is decorative-flowering and decorative-deciduous. The varieties do not need care.

Fast growing species

The main quality of vines is rapid growth, due to which the fence is formed in 2 to 3 years. An impenetrable hedge is created by binding plants. If you want to ennoble a standing fence, annuals are planted along it.

thorny bushes

Vegetation with thorns is suitable for the formation of an impenetrable hedge that is dangerous for intruders. Representatives of this group normally perceive a haircut, but they retain a spectacular appearance in the wild version. Individuals prone to overgrowth need good pruning and overgrowth control.

tall shrubs

From high bushes 3 - 5-meter hedges are formed. Their tendency to rapid vegetation contributes to obtaining a full-fledged fence in 2 to 3 years. A living structure needs height control.

The most unpretentious bushes

Picky representatives of the flora are good for survival on any soil and quick recovery after freezing and shearing. Many specimens grow well in shaded areas and tolerate urbanized and dry conditions.

Evergreen varieties have elegant foliage regardless of the time of year. Boxwood and laurel cherry need protection for the winter. European varieties tolerate cold and the proximity of deciduous and coniferous trees.

How to plant a multi-row hedge

Planting shrubs in one row gives a boring fence, which creative people do not like. Landscapers came up with multi-row hedges for them, a feature of which is planting plants in height.

Consider a simple version of a multi-level green fence.

1. Sheared spirea gray (1 m).
2. Mock oranges "Mont Blanc" (2 m). It can be replaced with different green-leaved mock oranges, the flowering of which falls at different times.
3. Lilac with dark and light purple inflorescences (4 - 5 m).

A marble sheared hedge is obtained by planting multi-colored varieties of barberry, viburnum vesicle or western arborvitae. Multicolor in one row looks beautiful.

The secret of floristry: The best hedges are formed from shrubs with identical biological parameters (soil requirements, moisture and light acceptance, growth rate). Aesthetics takes second place.

Which thuja is best suited for hedges

Russians living in the middle zone of the country can plant spruce, juniper and thuja western pyramidal or columnar varieties instead of a fence. Tui are frost-resistant, germinating on clay, sand and in conditions of high / low humidity. The most beautiful bushes grow on moderately moist garden soil.

Greens grown from seeds are worse than varietal vegetation. Thuja hedge is easy to grow from cuttings. In any case, seedlings are placed at a distance of 0.5 m. They are sheared only for 2-3 years. Tui grow well all season, so cut them 2-3 times. The easy formation of a hedge is provided by thuja crowns - dense and dense by nature. They cut them closer to July. The shape is trapezoidal.

In central Russia, a columnar copy of "Smaragd" is also suitable for creating a hedge from thuja bushes. The advantage of the variety is the preservation of the emerald color in any season. But the greens grow slowly and do not tolerate pruning. She is given freedom to grow.

Residents of other regions of Russia can plant thuja Braband. This variety loves to be sheared. But it belongs to the abundant fruit bearing, so at certain periods it looks unpresentable.

What is a hedge and at what distance should it be planted

If for some reason the owner of the estate does not like the thuja, the alternative will be spruces. Needle seedlings 50 cm high are planted at 1 m intervals. Pruning is not performed until next year. Further, the plant is ennobled in May-June, cutting the sides by 2/3 of the length. The upper process is shortened by a third.

To make the spruce fence look beautiful, you need to cut it regularly until the age of 3. It is undesirable to cut off the older needles. Trimming is done to the desired height, obtaining a profile in the form of a trapezoid or rectangle. Subsequently, the profile of the spruce forest is supported by pruning with garden shears. Thanks to care, the young growth will actively branch from bottom to top.

If you don’t like either thuja or spruce, pay attention to juniper. The bush loves the sun and is tolerant of drought and frost. Does not tolerate flooded soils and heavy clay soil. Species material does not take root well, so it is better to invest in varietal and plant specimens in one row at a distance of 50 - 80 cm.

Shear juniper with scissors for shrubs no more than 2 times a year. They create a juniper hedge for many years, which means that it makes sense to work on it according to all the rules.

What shrubs can be used for hedges

A hardworking gardener can grow a variety of hedges:

• Coniferous.
• Sheared.
• Deciduous.
• Monobreed.
• Combined.
• Soft and prickly.
• Free growing.
• Single or multi-row.

Regardless of the type of material, hedges are made from thick-leaved shrubs that are easy to cut. The main condition for obtaining a high-quality green fence here is the presence of a dense crown and weak growth opportunities.

Free-growing bushes look simpler than cut flora and need more room to grow. They grow up to 3 meters wide.

It is optimal to form hedges from varieties with naturally compact crowns:

• Spirea.
• Lilac.
• Chubushnik.
• Euonymus.
• Rose hip.

In the conditions of central Russia, elderberry, hawthorn and honeysuckle varieties Maaka and Tatarskaya take root well. Some summer residents like deren, viburnum pride, vesicle.

Evergreen sheared hedge

The popularity of clipped evergreen hedges is due to its compact width, which makes it the choice of owners of small gardens. Work on the creation and improvement takes a lot of time, requires physical strength and waste of finances. Do not hope that a one-time planting of shrubs without your participation will give a good hedge. It doesn’t matter if your green fence is sheared or wild, you need to work on it constantly.

Pruning technology is an important point in caring for a living fence. Its non-compliance threatens with an ugly growing flora. Defects in old vegetation cannot be eliminated. In addition, for good growth of the fence, it must be fed with fertilizers and moistened so that it gains strength after pruning.

If free-growing individuals do not require increased attention, then mineral and organic fertilizers should be laid out annually near shearing bushes. Poor soils are fertilized once a year. Top dressing of fertile soils is carried out every 3-4 years.

Measures for additional care for a hedge of shrubs are:

1. Weeding.
2. Mulching.
3. Loosening the earth.
4. Preventive spraying against diseases and pests.

Poor plant care spoils the appearance of the hedge. When growing a live fence, it is important to prevent the soil from being sodden and mulch it on both sides of the fence at a distance of half a meter.

As the shrubs mature, their line becomes impassable and impenetrable. The vegetation turns into a real fence, holding back wind, dust and noise. In landscaping the garden, it performs many functions - from zoning the garden to masking unattractive outbuildings.

In central Russia, a deciduous hedge (shorn) is grown from the following species:

• Ginnal maple.
• Maple Tatar.
• Linden small-leaved.
• Cotoneaster shining.
• Alpine currant.
• Spring flowering spirea.
• Plum-leaved hawthorn, prickly or blood-red variety.

Coniferous hedge

The fence made of needles has a solid appearance. For flowering and decorative hardwoods, it serves as a harmonious background. The coniferous hedge will be evergreen. In winter, behind its wall, the garden will be under reliable cover.

The range of conifers for decorating plots in central Russia is not rich, there are only three items:

1. Thuja western.
2. Juniper ordinary.

Their price is high, and the needles grow slowly.

Unwanted Plants for Perennial Hedges

In harsh winter conditions, plants can freeze. At least one, at least a few plantings will hopelessly spoil the appearance of the hedge. Therefore, Russians should not use boxwood, yew and privet. These variations are good for southern Europe. It should also be remembered that in some shrubs the bottom is exposed over time. Such an unpleasant surprise can be expected from a varietal lilac.

The "bald spot" should be masked with other plantations planted in front of a flawed bush. But it is best to initially use wild-growing Amur or Hungarian lilacs. These species quickly form a dense green wall and are immune to pests.

If you want to plant viburnum along the fence line, it will give a beautiful fence. However, if the flora is attacked by pests, and it is prone to this, until July the fence will be eaten by insects. Instead of the usual viburnum, experienced gardeners recommend planting viburnum pride.

Three more species are highly undesirable shrubs for arranging hedges:

1. Loch silver.
2. Fieldfare rowan-leaved variety.
3. Mapinucleen (beautiful decorative blooming specimen).

Agronomists consider their shortcomings to be a strong creep, which is why the garden can be spoiled by root branches. If desired, the process can be controlled. But still, it is better to plant a hedge from more favorable types of shrubs.

Learning how to cut ornamental shrubs makes sense already in order to give the entrance area of ​​\u200b\u200byour home splendor and respectability. At the same time, it doesn’t matter at all what your house looks like and is called - a cottage, a mansion or a hut on chicken legs. Nicely decorated entrance to face and rickety shack. And even if you don’t get that grandeur and pomposity that skillful gardeners in France and England achieve, in any case, the entrance to the house will take on an elegant, well-groomed look.

I also want to note that the entrance area is exactly the place that it is advisable to decorate with the greatest possible diligence, because this is the most visited and prominent place of any site, garden, yard. It is at the entrance to the dwelling that geometrically correct sheared borders, hedges and more complex sheared figures look most appropriate and organic.

I cut everything.

If you don’t know how to cut shrubs, or don’t dare to start, buy scissors and try to cut bushes that you don’t mind, gaining experience and remembering what’s what. Your first objects may be shrubs that are known to tolerate shearing well and make blunders: willow, privet, vesicle ... or even ordinary currants. I want to note that even professional gardeners, starting a haircut, often do not know what exactly this will lead to. For example, the world-famous sheared yews of the English estate “Livens Hall”, were originally sheared in the form of hemispheres, and now, after three centuries, they turned out to be “chess pieces”. So cut everything in a row and watch how the bushes behave. So you will gain practical experience, which alone is needed in this matter.
I note that in Europe the most popular objects for shearing are very heat-loving yew and boxwood. In our country, both of these plants suffer from frost, but to say that they are completely banned would be wrong. Studying their assortment, I am sure, will still lead to pleasant surprises. We will return to this at the end of this article.

Something for your scissors.

Trees and shrubs that tolerate shearing well, even here in central Russia, you can count how many dozens. And with varieties there are hundreds of them. If varietal plants are not available to you, you can easily find objects for cutting in the forest. Our common breeds such as linden, willow, spruce, juniper, elm, and alder are well cut. But there are shrubs that have a more pronounced ability to tolerate shearing and keep the shape of growth. Here are just a small part of the shrubs with which you can decorate the entrance to your family nest.

Common privet- has all the qualities necessary for a curb shrub. It has medium-sized foliage, grows well after a haircut, keeps the shape given by a haircut for a long time. Its disadvantage is the relatively low winter hardiness. But if you use its decorative form "Atrovirens" ("Atrovirens"), which, by the way, is the most common, and cut "products" are limited to a height of 60-70 cm, then frost damage is practically excluded. In Europe, privet is used for shoulder-high geometric hedges. We can reach such a height in the Chernozem region and to the south. I note that in order for the high hedge to be thick enough, the bushes are planted densely enough. multi-row and cut as one piece.

The privet has a variety "Aurea" with golden foliage. It is three times lower than the main form, and less hardy. But if you use it for squat curbs 15-25 cm high, there is practically no freezing.

Willow brittle- is best known for its popular decorative form "Bullat", which is also called "self-reaching" due to the density of the contours. It should be said that the wild varieties of this willow are not inferior in attractiveness to the cultivated form, and also cut well. In nature, it is usually a medium-sized tree 7-8 (up to 15) meters high with a dense tent-shaped, leafy crown only from above. If you start cutting a tree early, you can first, successively retreating, maintain the shape of an “inverted drop”. Then, as you grow older, you can smoothly turn the crown into a “box on a trunk”, which is also interesting. Since the tree grows quickly, the number of haircuts should be at least 3-4 per season.

Cotoneaster brilliant- in terms of representation in landscaping and park construction, this is the main curb shrub for central Russia and the North-West. But in urban plantations, it often does not impress with its appearance, which discourages gardeners from using this shrub in the garden. I must say that the fault of the cotoneaster itself is not in this. It's just that our gardeners act according to the rule - "stuck and forget", forgetting that the bush must first be planted in accordance with all the rules, and then fertilize and loosen the foot, water it in a drought. And most importantly, hedges and borders must be cut on time, otherwise nothing good will come of it.

Usually, low borders 60-70 cm high are made from cotoneaster, which, if properly set up, can be very decorative. Look at what cotoneaster is capable of, from which wide curly hedges are created by dense multi-row planting. Such hedges are sheared up to 5-6 times per season. But if impeccability is not in the first place for you, then three times is enough. It is easier to give free haircut silhouettes, for example, in the form of asymmetrical pillows and hemispheres. Small pillows are created from single bushes, large ones are formed from several plants planted nearby.

Vesicle viburnum- thanks to its pliability in cutting, and especially its two "colored varieties", this shrub is one of the most useful decorative deciduous shrubs for yard gardening and a small amateur garden. It allows an unusually diverse use in the garden. Both varieties (purple "Diabolo" and yellow "Aurea") can be used for sheared trapezoidal hedges 120-170 cm high. A hedge, if cut only from the sides, can also be semi-free. In both cases, the hedges not only do a good job of enclosing, but are excellent screens from prying eyes, serve as an excellent background, against which the most ordinary flower arrangements become unusually attractive.

Separate bushes can be formed in the form of an "inverted drop". Thus, by the way, it is possible to ennoble a completely adult bush. Other forms of haircuts can be a variety of geometric shapes: balls and hemispheres, cubes, pyramids. Asymmetrical forms of haircuts look no less impressive - a variety of pillows, shocks that can be created by cutting a single plant or several densely planted bushes, combined by a haircut into one.

Rhododendron Katevbinsky- colorful flowering is expected from rhododendron, and few people notice how good its shiny leathery leaves are, similar to lingonberries, but 10-15 times larger. This species itself is winter-hardy, but does not bloom every year. The bush is initially quite dense, but with age it can stretch and thin out. If the growth of the plant is slightly adjusted, blinding the growth points at the very beginning of their development, then the density and silhouette of the bush can be dramatically improved. With these manipulations, one should strive to reduce and compact the crown of the bush so that it takes the form of a squat, dense hemisphere or pillow.

"Golden Princess" - Japanese spirea has a lot of varieties that initially have thick and dense crowns. It is not difficult to ennoble their appearance by transforming them into pillows, balls and hemispheres. This, by the way, does not have any negative consequences for their flowering. As for the Golden Princess variety, it is remarkable for its small leaves, the golden color of which is practically unchanged from spring to autumn. The shrub, which is given a spherical shape, is thus equally beautiful all season. The number of haircuts is 3-4 per season, the last one is at the end of August.

Suitable for shearing are also the varieties "Little Princess", "Shirobana", "Gold Mound", "Gold Flame", etc.

Thuja western- almost all varietal thujas are well cut. But when cutting them, it is advisable to adhere to the rule: the silhouette of the haircut should be similar to the natural growth form of the variety. Balls, hemispheres and pillows are formed from spherical varieties; from pyramidal - columns, pyramids, cones, etc. Number of haircuts from 3 to 6 per season.

Good in cutting varieties "Rhein Gold", "Aurea", "Smaragd", "Globoz", "Golden-tipped", "Cristata", etc.

Kuril tea- most varieties of Kuril tea have sprawling and loose crowns. Giving density and smooth contours unrecognizably change the appearance of the shrub for the better. Even a non-flowering bush becomes unusually attractive. In addition, the haircut does not interfere, but on the contrary, stimulates flowering. Depending on the natural shape of the crown of the variety, it makes sense to give the bush a spherical silhouette (Abbotswood, Gold Star, Goldfinger varieties) or a more squat cushion shape (Hopleys Orange, Primrose Beauty, Farrery).

Yew and boxwood - and they are not forbidden.

Both of these shrubs have winter-hardy varieties and forms that winter quite steadily under the snow. In boxwood, the most attractive are dwarf and undersized spherical varieties, which are given greater density by shearing. They can also be planted in dense stitches as informal borders or in arrays one on top of the other, trimmed flat at the top.

The yew has squat forms, growing spreading, in the manner of the Cossack juniper. Several fairly winter-hardy varieties of yew have already been identified, which are excellent material for low geometric borders of 40-60 cm. What is especially attractive about yew is that it grows very slowly, so it does not need frequent haircuts.

Articles about the plant

The art of artistic cutting of bushes and trees is called topiary. The roots of this skill go back to the ancient world, but this technique gained popularity in the middle of the 15th century. Now not only professionals in the field of landscape design dream of mastering the techniques of this work. Ordinary amateur gardeners also try themselves in this matter. I became interested in topiary bushes and trees when I saw how well-groomed and original the garden with green statues was becoming.

What plants are suitable for topiary?

Almost every plant is suitable for cutting. But there are a number of shrubs that are widespread among topiary professionals. These include:

1. Boxwood. The plant is poisonous, be careful. Requires trimming at least twice a year.
2. Yew. Levels in spring and autumn.
3. Holly. Due to the thorniness of the plant, it is perfect for creating a hedge or fence.
4. Cotoneaster. It is pliable, but requires frequent haircuts.
5. Privet. The most convenient option, you need to cut it once a year, in warm weather.

Before starting work, take care of buying and sharpening the tool that you may need. Among it:

1. Secateurs. Your main tool will be needed for pruning branches. Choose a long-handled pruner, as you will have to do some of the work at a distance from you.
2. Garden knife. Use it to trim plant shoots.
3. Brush cutter. Needed to form a crown.
4. Lopper. It will help with remote pruning of branches.
5. Saw. Needed for thick branches and trunks.
6. Metal frame of the desired shape.

There is a lot of controversy regarding the last point. Professionals work exclusively with scissors. But, despite this, cutting trees with a frame is now becoming more popular. Masters of their craft are advised to start easy. Practice the art of topiary on simple shapes (circle, oval, cone) before tackling more intricate shapes.

And do not forget that craftsmanship does not tolerate haste, the cultivation of each figure will take several years. Be patient.

Decorative cutting of bushes and trees includes several stages:

1. Create a layout plan of the desired shape in order to understand the size and shape of the future shrub.
2. Put the wire frame of the desired shape on the plant, fix it in the ground.
3. When the plant grows and the branches go beyond the frame, trim the "extra" part. It is important to remember that you need to cut each branch that has come out separately. An example of using the frame is visible in the photo.
4. For a year or two, regularly inspect the plant and align the branches along the frame.
5. When the plant fills the entire volume of the frame, trim the last time and remove the frame.
6. Next, you just have to regularly maintain the shape of the bush, cutting off the growing leaves.

To achieve the desired result, there are haircut techniques that have been successfully used by professionals. So deciduous trees grow 5-10 cm of branches per year, cut them in the spring, before the buds swell. At the same time, shrubs require frequent care, shearing is carried out 2-3 times a year. Conifers also have features, cutting bushes should always taper towards the top. Otherwise, you risk being left without needles on the lower branches.

And do not forget about safety, read in detail about the type of plant that you are going to cut. The resin of coniferous trees does not wash off clothes, and some types of thuja and juniper are poisonous. Any plant (coniferous or deciduous) is cut from the bottom up. After shearing, the shrub needs plenty of water and nourishment with minerals.

Mowing bushes is a job that requires attention and patience. It will take several years to create an original garden, labyrinth or hedge. But the result will exceed expectations. Your figures will be admired by the neighbors. And the realization that you made these creations with your own hands will add pride and warmth.

Boxwood, barberry, thuja and other conifers are plants that are grateful for a haircut, allowing you to create unique masterpieces of garden and park sculpture.

Sheared forms of shrubs set both an independent style of the site, and are perfectly combined with other styles - for example, with the landscape form of a country garden.

Technique for creating simple shapes

When starting to cut bushes, they first determine whether an existing plant will be used in the composition, or whether young seedlings will need to be planted. Mature shrubs need rejuvenating pruning before shaping.

Young growth before cutting should be well rooted. Therefore, they begin to work with garden shears only the next season after the preparatory work.

Beginning designers should first of all master the technique of creating geometric shapes.

Ball

This popular figure is not the simplest. It takes patience to create a spherical shape. It is better to start with shrubs that initially have a round crown. Bush cutting technique:

A simple solution is to form a cube and then trim the sharp corners.

Mowing bushes according to a pattern is convenient for those who form a spherical shape for the first time. The template is a pin to which a wire or a piece of plastic (plywood) is attached in the form of a semicircle of the required radius. Working Method:

Important! If it is planned that the ball will touch the ground only at the base point - during the preparatory period, only one central shoot is left on this bush. With a larger number of shoots, balls are formed with varying degrees of elevation above the ground.

Cube

The size of the cube depends on the number of plants that form it. For small figures, 1-2 bushes are enough, for large ones - 5-9 pieces. As they grow, the seedlings should look like a single bush, so they are planted around the perimeter of the future structure. For example, for 5 bushes, the landing pattern will be as follows:

Cube Cutting Technique:

determine the area of ​​the base;

vertically install slats in the corners, which will play the role of templates for the edges of the figure;

at the desired height, connect the vertical ribs with horizontal crossbars;

cut from top to bottom, stepping back 2 cm from the frame.

Roughing of the crown is carried out with trellis scissors, small stumps and twigs are removed with secateurs.

pyramid and cone

Formation is similar to the previous technique.

Rib guides are fastened at the top in the center of the future figure. Haircut start along the ribs from the bottom up. All faces are processed in turn at the same height, then rise higher. This technique allows you to correct haircut errors in time.

column or cylinder

The base of the cylinder is a circle, so the guides are placed around the bush parallel to each other. From above they are connected with a wire so that the diameter of the upper and lower planes are equal. They cut the plant from top to bottom, periodically examining the figure from the side in order to correct the length of the branches in time.

Spiral

Those who have already mastered the topiary technique can proceed to more complex figures. The design looks spectacular in the form of a spiral - one- or two-sided.

Each plot of land is decorated with green spaces. Having the skills of cutting, you can give shrubs and trees any shape from geometric shapes to images of people and animals.

All green spaces need pruning and crown formation from time to time. In addition to sanitary and rejuvenating procedures, each bush or tree can be given a certain shape using various tools.

To work effectively, the tool must meet the requirements:

Blades - sharp, narrowed at the end;
The handle is non-slip for comfortable working.
The color is bright, it will help you easily find an abandoned tool;

Pruning tools are manual, battery, gasoline, electric.

Hand tools

They are divided into amateur and professional. Professional ones are more expensive, but also more reliable, they are convenient to work with, they will serve much longer, they have a wider range of applications. When buying, choose manufacturers that have proven themselves for a long time: Gardena, Fiskars, Felko, Rako. Good reviews from the domestic manufacturer Mekhinstrument.

Garden secateurs

Secateurs are designed for trimming branches up to 30 mm thick.

Before making a choice, check the cutting ability of the pruner on a paper sheet.

Secateurs have a different configuration and purpose: for flowers, plants with thorns, for grass, for grapes and, of course, the classic one. Pruners can also be selected for hands of different sizes and for left-handed people.

Secateurs come with one or two cutting blades. There are two blades - they move towards each other, they work like scissors, it is difficult to cut a thicker branch with such a tool. Choose a pruner with a single blade - the driving blade bites the branch when it reaches the stop of the lower lip. There must be a return spring in the design.

garden loppers

Lopper has elongated handles, the principle of operation is the same as that of the secateurs. The cutting ability is higher than that of a secateurs, cuts branches up to 50 millimeters thick. During operation, it must be held with both hands. It has a certain advantage over pruners, as it can cut high branches.

garden shears - hedge trimmers

They resemble scissors, have long handles and are designed for trimming green hedges and tending shrubs, giving them a neat shape. Branch diameter up to 15 mm.

To facilitate and speed up the work in the formation of the crown, you can use tools that run on batteries, gasoline or electricity. Undoubtedly, such tools must be in your arsenal if you plan to ennoble your shrubs and trees.

garden saw

garden knives

Designed for correcting the shape, trimming dry and young branches. Will be an undoubted help when working with shrubs and trees. They have a curved blade for ease of use.

Garden tools petrol, accumulator, electric.

This type of tool, of course, may be needed for sawing off thick and stem branches. Use it to trim living branches. Choose only reputable manufacturers, as they produce a tool that can cut branches as accurately as possible without causing harm.

Manufacturers that are popular, have a long service life and are easy to use: Husqvarna, Bosch, Gardena, Stihl, Echo.

AccuCut Gardena cordless scissors

These cordless scissors will surely make gardening easier. Light enough, processing speed is much higher than a hand tool. The cut is even and precise. With the help of such scissors, it is easy to create sculptures from shrubs and trees.

Advantage - you can also cut the grass around a tree or shrub.

It is easy to gain experience with such a tool. Equipped with a charge level indicator.

electric garden shears

They work from the electric city, respectively, you can use an unlimited amount of time without recharging. The cord, up to 30 meters long, provides a wide carrying area. Lightweight and relatively inexpensive.

Cannot be used during rain!

petrol garden shears

Gas shears will always come in handy when working with green spaces. You can work with such a tool in any weather - they are not afraid of moisture and rain, do not require recharging, and have long knives.

They require refueling with gasoline, tracking oil changes, heavy in weight.

Shrub shears reviews

When choosing any product, we are guided by the advice of sellers and customer reviews. Undoubtedly, each tool, manual or mechanical, has its own advantages. Good reviews are usually well-known manufacturers. Since they care about their customers, give a guarantee for their products, have a network of service centers, telephone hotlines. In company stores you can buy original spare parts.

The form of cutting shrubs, photo

Having mastered a variety of tools, you can start cutting your favorite trees and shrubs. Think about the design and the result you want to get.

Shape - ball

Form - hedge

triangular shape

Lion figure

Stepped haircut

topiary haircut

hedge

Alpine garden

Figures of people

Decorative shrub haircut, master class secrets and tips

If you set out to transform your garden,

• Think over the work plan and design;
• Draw on a piece of paper a plan of the area where your pets grow;
• Consider the shape of each tree, taking into account its features;
• If necessary, create a template for which you will cut the bush;
• Prepare gloves if your shrub is thorny;
• Get the right tools, learn the rules of cutting and get to work.

Do the first haircut in the spring, before the formation of buds, above the ground at least one third. First of all, cut off old and dry branches, as well as branches and leaves touched by pests and diseases.
Then shape into the shape that the bush allows.

When planning the cutting of bushes and trees, consider the biological characteristics, the ability to grow, to form shoots throughout the season. choose slow-growing plants with small leaves.

♦ thuja, viburnum, cherry laurel, larch, linden, cotoneaster, acacia, boxwood, wild rose, euonymus, cinquefoil, barberry, hawthorn, pine, spruce, juniper.

examples

Boxwood is ideal for giving a variety of shapes. It is fairly bushy and grows well. Lives up to four hundred years. Keep in mind that it does not tolerate frost well.

Boxwood before shearing

Boxwood after shearing

Cotoneaster is perfect for a decorative haircut, bushes well, can be used for hedges and creating a variety of shapes.

Cotoneaster before haircut

Cotoneaster after haircut

Privet is not a whimsical plant, it has many species. Can go without a haircut for a long time. But it will look like an ordinary plant. Shaping ennobles this shrub and gives personality to the garden.

Privet before haircut

Privet after haircut

Euonymus is a real decoration of any garden. It responds very positively to a haircut, begins to grow more efficiently. It must be remembered that the fruits of this tree are poisonous.

Euonymus before haircut

Euonymus after haircut

Hawthorn, spirea, honeysuckle, hazel respond with gratitude after pruning.

Several ways to bring green spaces in order:

shortening - cut off the tops that have just sprouted.
thinning - to avoid excessive density.
rejuvenation - removal of old and dry branches.
pruning - removal of protruding branches.

Use only high-quality tools of well-known companies.

Curly haircut of a bush, step by step instructions with a photo

The shape of the shrubs can be varied. It all depends on the plant itself, where it is located and how it fits into the design of the site.

Tools suitable for this purpose are garden shears, manual, gasoline, electric, battery. If you have no experience, start with the simplest shapes - a ball, a square, a cone.

Visually divide the shrub into two parts with a horizontal stripe. Cut her out.
Perpendicular to the horizontal strip, cut vertical stripes on four sides at the same distance from each other.
The remaining branches are leveled relative to the trimmed strips.

Use a wire template in the form of a semicircle, move it along the plant.

Another way is to put together a cube from wooden blocks, so that it can be put on a bush. Trim a square on each side first, then trim the corners.

Standard boxwood, haircut in the form of a ball

Place four slats, which will form a square, around the bush.
Fasten the horizontal strips between the rails from above.
Cut from top to bottom.

This form of shearing is done with a rope, one end of which is tied to the top and coiled around the plant. This creates a contour. Starting to cut, along the contour, cut off a small layer, step back and see how beautiful it turns out. If everything is in order, continue cutting. Don't leave a bare trunk. Use garden shears and secateurs.

A frame is made in the form of a cone - with three, four corners, as many as possible. It is put on a bush and cut.

If you have mastered the techniques of cutting simple shapes, you can try to create a more complex sculpture with your own hands. The art of creating masterpieces from green spaces is called topiary. There is no limit to fantasy here. You just need to choose a suitable tree or bush.

You will need:

A blank is a template for the shape you want to draw. Such a template can be bought in a special store, or you can make it yourself from a metal wire with a diameter of at least six millimeters. It is ideal to use the machine for welding. If this is not the case, the wire is tied

Templates are:

portable - put on a bush before cutting;
stationary - the template is placed on the shrub, as the shrub grows, it fills the template, when the template is filled with greenery, the shrub is cut off according to the template.
fillable - the template is filled with soil, moss, peat, where plants are planted, pruning is done around the template.

Topiary haircut examples:

In order to form a hedge, you will need: rope, posts, scissors. Install posts along the bushes, stretch a rope or fishing line between them. The tension should be strong, parallel to the ground. Next, try to cut without going beyond the limits outlined by the rope.

The following plants are best suited for hedges: hawthorn, vine, linden, derain, boxwood, acacia, hornbeam, beech, thuja, conifers, purple willow, vesicle. Choose plants that grow well in your climate.

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For regions with an unstable climate, Barberry Thunberga is very well suited for the formation of a hedge.

If you decide to only plant your plants for a live hedge, you can put up a fence first, the height of which depends on the chosen location, the selected plants and your preferences. It may not be a high fence at all, which will serve as a border for a flower bed or a certain area in the garden. Or a fence with which you want to decorate the front of your site or the entire perimeter.

Conifers are ideal for cutting and shaping. They have a plastic crown, they tolerate pruning well, you can create figures of any complexity.

• Shearing can begin no earlier than a year after planting.
• When choosing a shape, consider the natural shape of the plant.
• Don't leave branches bare. Most conifers do not have dormant buds, the branch will remain bare.
• Consider the weather outside. Make a haircut at a temperature above five degrees.
• Do not start cutting during the period when the plant has active growth - early spring and first half of summer.
• After cutting, spray the crown with Epin.

Most conifers are poisonous! Wear gloves. Wash your hands well after work

Tui haircut in the form of a pyramid

Japanese haircut. Japanese white pine. Nivaki style is akin to bonsai, but can grow indefinitely. You need to create this style, starting with a young plant. For the middle lane, Scotch pine is suitable. You can use juniper, spruce. Remove terminal shoots. Form branches in the form of pillows. The taller the tree, the smaller the pillow should be.

If you have a suburban area, join the art of cutting trees and shrubs. Creating a variety of shapes and figures will decorate your garden.