Indoor lemon - growing rules. Everything you need to know about lemon care at home

Lemon grows well and develops at an air temperature in the room of 18 ... 20 ° C.

At a temperature of 15 ... 17 ° C the best way buds develop and the percentage of fruit set increases, and at 19 ... 25 ° C, fruits grow and ripen better. At rest, i.e. in the autumn winter period(November to February), it is desirable that the air temperature be reduced by 4 ... 5 ° C. It would be even better if the temperature could be maintained at about 8 ° C.

The optimum air humidity for a lemon is 60-70%. Practically in a room with an air temperature of 18 ... 20 ° C, it is maintained at this level.

Watering

Lemon is best watered with rain or snow water. If this is not possible, it is watered tap water, which is preliminarily defended for at least a day in a dish with a wide neck. You can not water the lemon with boiled water.

In summer, plants are watered more often and more abundantly than in winter. It is better to do it in the evening. So overnight, the plant will better make up for the water deficit formed during the day. Water is served in small portions, waiting for the absorption of each of them. Watering is continued until the first drops appear at the bottom of the pan, otherwise the entire the water will go away into the pan, washing out the nutrients from the soil, which are so necessary for the normal growth of the lemon. The soil is periodically allowed to dry out, as with excessive watering the plant can get sick. During budding and flowering, you should especially carefully and plentifully water the lemon.

There are signs that indicate the need for a firm watering of the plant. They are:

• folding young leaves "into a boat";
• drooping of non-lignified shoots;
• changing the dark color of the soil to gray;
• the earth does not absorb water at all, lags behind the walls of the pot, and when watering, the water, running along the walls, instantly ends up in the pan.

So that the earth does not lag behind the walls of the container, three hours after watering, the soil is loosened (near the walls to a depth of 1.5 cm) with a wooden stick, and before the next watering, it is compacted along the walls of the pot and the plant stem is spudded. These measures contribute to a more uniform moistening of the earth clod and protect the plant from the aggressive action of fertilizer solutions. Loosening also facilitates the access of air to the roots of the plant, which contributes to their better development and general condition.

Often after watering, especially with tap water, upper layer the earth is covered with mold or a whitish coating. Therefore, it is advisable to replace a layer of soil 1-1.5 cm thick with fresh earth once a month. Its composition is the same as when landing. Such a change will provide additional plant nutrition.

Lemon reacts positively to washing the leaves. It is advisable to repeat this procedure at least twice a month. On the upper side, the leaves are washed with a soft cloth or cotton swab, and on the lower side they are sprayed. It is also advisable to take out the lemon in the rain. Only 8-10-year-old plants with a large blood and a large volume of soil cannot stand it.

It has a good effect on the growth and development of the plant washing the walls of a ceramic pot once a month warm water(40 ... 45 ° C), which helps to cleanse the pores of the pot and free access of air to the roots.

At the end of spring, the plants are set aside from the window by 50-100 cm, and after the danger of damaging the lemon by late spring frosts has passed, they take it out to the balcony or to the street. In the first case, the pots are installed in oblong wooden boxes, fill the free space between the pots with sand and cover it with moss or peat; in the second, they drop it on a “warm pillow” in the shade of trees. On the street, it is desirable to protect the lemon from snails, larvae and worms with the help of a nylon stocking, which is pulled from below onto the vessel, and it is often sprayed with various preparations from pests (aphids, mites, etc.).

1-2 weeks before the early autumn frosts, plants begin to accustom to room conditions. Within 5-7 days they are sprayed and brought into the room at night, and taken out again during the day.

In winter, the lemon is placed in a cool place. It overwinters without any harm to itself even with strong shading at an air temperature of 3 ... 5 ° C. In diffused light, the optimum temperature for wintering a lemon is 8 ° C. It should be remembered that during a cold wintering, the plant blooms in spring and ends flowering only in autumn.

Lemon can also be grown on the balcony, if it is specially equipped. To do this, install bindings with double glazing and two transoms, then carefully close up all the holes (the lemon is afraid of drafts). To insulate the balcony, they lay it on the floor, and on the walls (with the exception of the wall separating the room and the balcony) and on the ceiling, foam plastic 10-15 cm thick is glued. Additionally, linoleum is laid on the floor, and the walls are glued very light wallpaper. In the immediate vicinity of the crown, the plants are attached fluorescent lamps equipped with a time relay. After sunset, lamps should be connected to illuminate for 2-4 hours. Late autumn, an oil radiator with a thermostat is installed on the balcony, connecting the heater at an ambient temperature of 5 ° C.

However, in most cases, the lemon hibernates on the windowsills, where the air is always cool and fresh (the air temperature is 3 ... 5 ° C lower than in the room). It should be borne in mind that the lemon is afraid of both drafts from under the frames and excessively dry air rising from a hot battery. To protect against unwanted influences in the fall, it is necessary to isolate the plant with plastic wrap both from drafts and from overheated battery air and fence off the window with a white curtain from the room, which will increase the illumination of the crown and protect it from direct contact with the dry air of the room.

In addition to this, periodically (every two days) the plants are sprayed with warm water (25 ... 28 ° C) and the room is ventilated every evening, opening the window for 2-3 hours.

In winter, plants are sprayed 1-2 times a week. The water temperature should be 2 ... 3 ° C higher than the air temperature in the room. Water the plants every two or three days and so that the earthen ball does not dry out.

At the end of February, the plant is often sprayed with warm water to prevent leaf fall.

Experienced citrus growers, in order to accelerate the onset of growth and flowering of lemon, after wintering, in March, warm the ground with the plant. To do this, pour boiling water into the basin with a layer of 5-6 cm and put a pot of lemon in it for 20-30 minutes. Hot water as if steaming the earth along with the roots. A few days after the procedure, the buds swell, that is, the plant wakes up and starts to grow.

Light mode

In winter, it is useful to illuminate lemons, bringing the daylight hours to 10 hours. additional lighting use lamps (preferably fluorescent white glow). Lemon feels good at 5000 lux illumination (light intensity is measured in lux). It can be measured with a photo exposure meter. Thus, crown illumination of 7 thousand lux is achieved when the plant is placed at a distance of 7 cm from the fluorescent tubes, 6 thousand lux at 15 cm and 3 thousand lux at 50 cm. To increase the illumination, it is desirable to have a reflector (reflector - tin, covered with special lighting enamel, which is attached between or near the fluorescent tubes).

With a lack of light, a lemon needs enhanced nutrition. It is fertilized with mineral solutions once a month, alternating the application of nitrogen, potash (possibly their joint application) and phosphorus fertilizers.

Transshipment and transfer

Transshipment- this is the transfer of a plant with an undisturbed clod of earth from a pot that has become cramped for normal root growth, to another - a larger one.

At transplant the plant is moved to another container with a bare root system. Transplantation is an undesirable procedure for a lemon, since its root system does not have root hairs. But it is carried out with poor (heavy) soil or when rejuvenating an old plant when it is at rest.

The diameter of the container for transshipment or transplantation of lemon, depending on its age

The time of transshipment is determined by the state of the plant: the appearance of roots on the surface of the soil or from a drainage hole and the depressed state of the plant are clear signs of the need for urgent transshipment.

To form a strong tree with a well-developed crown, young plants are transshipped up to 2-3 times a year. Adult plants (older than five years) are transshipped every 3-4 years, but in this case the transshipment is replaced by an annual change of the topsoil.

For transshipment, a container is selected in advance. Its size is increased gradually. The diameter of each new pot should be 2-4 cm larger than the previous one, and the tubs should be 6-8 cm larger. Moreover, the height of the container should be 3-5 cm larger than its width. Under such conditions, the plant develops better and can stay longer without a transplant.

A shard is placed in the vessel, then drainage, tea with iron filings on it, and next to it on a sheet of paper, well-boiled and cooled soil mixture.

Before removing the plant from the vessel, the top layer of soil is removed, the clod of earth is well watered and the vessel is tapped from all sides with a wooden hammer or stick. Then, passing the stem of a lemon between the index and middle fingers, turn the pot over on the palm of your hand and, tapping the edge of the vessel on the edge of the table, carefully remove the plant. If the pot does not come off, then you need to press a wooden stick through the drainage hole on the shard and try again to remove the plant from the vessel. If this succeeds, then a shard, drainage and a small layer of earth are removed from the clod of earth. Then carefully examine root system and if black or brown (rotten or decaying) roots are found, they are cut with a razor to a milky white color in a cross section.

After that, the plant with a clod of earth is placed in a more spacious vessel and so that it is equidistant from the walls of the pot and is 2 cm below the edge of the pot, and then sprinkle it with soil and compact it with a finger or a wooden stick (depending on the gap between the clod of earth and the walls of the pot and the depth of the vessel), tapping from time to time the bottom of the vessel on the edge of the table (air voids in the soil have an extremely negative effect on the growth and development of a lemon). After transplanting, the plant is thoroughly watered so as to evenly moisten the entire clod of earth. Watering is stopped when the first drops appear on the pallet. Then the pits are filled up and the top layer of soil is removed so that it becomes 0.3-1 cm below the edge of the vessel. The plant is placed in the same place with the same orientation of the leaves to the light.

If a clod of earth fell apart during transplantation, despite all efforts to keep it intact, then, having shaken off the roots from the soil or washed them, the plant is placed in a previously prepared pot and, having spread the roots well on the mound of soil, fill them with a soil mixture diluted with water to the state thick kefir. After draining the water from the pot, the plant is corrected, the soil is poured into the pot and, after sprinkling the leaves, cover it with a film. The leaves are sprayed daily, while avoiding excessive waterlogging of the soil. After 2 weeks, airing begins.

Transshipment can be carried out throughout the summer, but transplantation, as already mentioned, is only at rest. best term transfers - February-March. It is done like this: in an adult tree more than 2 m high, they tie the trunk at the root neck with a rag, and over this bandage they throw a loop of rope. A strong stick is inserted into this loop and, using it as a lever, the whole plant with the vessel is lifted up. In this position, the end of the lever is fixed. Then old crockery removed or dismantled. The plant is rejuvenated by cutting both roots and branches (this measure will prevent the shedding of leaves), a new vessel is brought under a lump of earth with drainage poured to the bottom, and the plant is slowly lowered into it. Then pour the soil and compact it around the clod of earth. The tree is well watered, and after soaking up the water, the holes are filled up and a little earth is poured on top.

Old lemons (over 8 years old) also rejuvenate: young shoots are removed, and old ones are cut off (by 1 / 2 -2 / 3 of their length). After that, the plant is removed from the vessel in the manner described above, the roots are shortened and transplanted into a smaller vessel with rich soil.

molding

The plant can be given a variety of shapes. The choice depends on many factors, but above all on the future location of the lemon. So, when placing it on a window, regardless of shape, all branches are fanned along the glass.

The simplest of the forms are bush and standard (the height of the trunk in the first case is 5-15 cm, in the second - 40 or more). The bush is easy to form from a rooted cutting. The advantage of this form is earlier fruiting, and the disadvantage is that the plant needs more space. A lemon with a standard crown shape decorates the room, but fruits from it should be expected 2-4 years later than from a bush one.

In a cutting with three or more eyes, at least two buds “wake up”. Depending on the chosen form, one is left for the stem and no more than three multidirectional shoots for the bush, and the rest are immediately pinched. Moreover, if two shoots appear from the kidney, the weak one is also immediately pinched.

Pinching is a positive element of plant crown care. Removing the growth point above the third and fifth leaves accelerates the ripening of both shoots and leaves and contributes to the economical use of nutrients. After ripening, the shoot and leaves are removed top sheet with a stem (do decapitation). This technique causes the awakening of not one so-called continuation shoot, but 2-3 shoots, which contributes to the formation of a compact, well-leafed crown.

So, using the method of I. M. Yakhovsky "5-3-5-3" (leaving five leaves on the shoot, then three on the continuation shoot, etc.), we can expect flowering of a rooted lemon by the end of the second year of life. In our practice, having slightly modified this method - "6-4-6-4" (leaving six leaves on the shoot, then four) - with the removal of the upper, mature leaf, we found the appearance of buds on a rooted plant at the beginning of the second year of life.

Experience has also shown that the use of garden pitch when smearing the cut after decapitation leads to cracking of the bark. Obviously, this is due to the active influx of plastic substances to the remote growth point, which contributes to the thickening of the stem, and this, in turn, causes cracking of the bark. This does not happen when using wood ash. When covering the same wounds on the stem, the action of the var is effective.

The laying of a large number of generative buds is observed on horizontally located branches of the 4th and higher orders. In order to give the desired location to the shoot, you can use paper clips, elastic bands and clothespins to bend down or pull branches together until woody. Competitively growing shoots, thickening the crown, and "fat" also bend down.

Flowering and fruiting

From the time of the formation of the bud to its blooming, 40-50 days pass. Mass flowering lasts 10-12 days.

In order to save nutrients, you should thin out the buds sitting next to you. They leave those that are located closer to the base and in which the ovary is better developed (large buds resembling an egg in shape). If it is still difficult to choose the desired bud, then they are left on the plant until blooming. After that, flowers are removed without a pistil and with a short stigma at the pistil. When single buds appear in winter, from November to February, 1-3 buds are left on the plant for aroma, and the rest are removed.

The lemon is a self-pollinating plant, so it can be hand-pollinated by transferring pollen from flower to flower. To do this, a cotton swab is wound around a match and gently touched with it to the stamens and stigmas of each flower.

The ovaries, up to 1 cm in diameter, are also thinned out, leaving those that are closer to the base and sit on shorter branches (the fruit grows more slowly on a long branch). Ultimately, in the first year of fruiting, 1-3 fruits are left on the plant, in the second - 3-8, in the third - 10-15, in the fourth - 15-25, etc.

The fruit of a lemon is considered ripe when it has juicy flesh and reaches a certain size (appropriate for this variety). However, it may be green. Green lemons, as already noted, contain more vitamin C, and therefore they are preferable. If such fruits are placed in a glass jar, add 2-3 ripe apples and cork it tightly, then after 5-7 days the lemons will turn yellow. Fruits should be removed with a sharp pruner along with the fruit.

Caring for the crown of a fruit-bearing tree

After the entry of the lemon into fruiting, annually in the spring, before the plant begins to grow, pruning is carried out. At the same time, cut into a ring:

• fructified small twigs with drying ends (they are usually leafless);
• diseased, dry, broken shoots and branches thickening the crown;
• "fatty" shoots that cannot be used to shape the crown by trimming and bending down.

All extra shoots that appear on the trunk, uterine branches (branches of the first order) and vegetative shoots of the crown in directions where they will interfere with each other in the future are plucked out.

In addition to pruning, the crown is improved annually. At the same time, strongly growing shoots are pinched, and after

when they ripen, they are cut by 15-20 cm. As a result, a panicle of new shoots is formed on them, from which 2-3 well-developed multidirectional shoots are left, and the rest are plucked. If the plant blooms profusely and bears fruit without forming a vegetative growth, then during budding, every 2-3rd shoot is cut to 2/3 of the length. Short pruning results in new shoots (replacement shoots) that will produce next year's crop.

Falling leaves on a lemon under good life support conditions, it is observed only after 2 years with physiological aging, but if the leaves begin to fall off earlier than this period, then you need to find out the reason.

It may be related:

• with strongly acidic or alkaline soil (methods for determining its pH and methods for making it slightly acidic are described earlier);
• with any sharp, contrasting changes external conditions: transfer of the plant from the Shadow to the sun and from the room to the street (it is necessary to gradually accustom the plant to new living conditions, while the leaves are often sprayed);
• with insufficient lighting of the plant in autumn and winter, which is especially detrimental in combination with hot and dry air in the room (they carry out additional illumination, spraying and ventilation, and also isolate it from the room with a white curtain);
• with physiological drought - excessive cooling of the pot on the windowsill with poor pasting of the window and dry hot air flow rising from the battery (carefully paste over the window and isolate the plant);
• with poisoning carbon monoxide(you can not place the plant in the kitchen with a gas stove);
• with overdrying of the soil or its constant waterlogging (in the first case, the top layer of soil is loosened after watering, and before watering it is compacted along the walls of the vessel, which contributes to uniform moistening of the entire clod of earth; in the second, the soil is periodically allowed to dry out).

With constant waterlogging (flooding) of the soil, its “souring” is possible. The external manifestation of this phenomenon is a change in the color of the leaves (their edges and tips become brown-brown), and when the earth is removed, browned and even black roots are visible, instead of light yellow and white. The only way to save the plant in this case is to wash the root system and remove the brown roots, up to light yellow ones, with a razor. After that, a vessel of the appropriate size is selected and the plant is planted again, sprayed, covered plastic bag etc. Flooding can also occur if the drainage device is incorrect or if the soil is too heavy in texture (clay) soil. In the first case, water stagnates for a long time on the soil surface. To fix this, you need to lift the crock through the drainage hole with a stick, after which the water quickly runs into the pan. In the second case, the plant is urgently transplanted into another soil and cared for accordingly;

• with a lack or excess of batteries;
• heavily infested with diseases and/or pests;
• with a burn with pesticides (it is necessary to strictly adhere to the recommended doses of the drug, while it is important to first test its effect on 2-3 lemon leaves, and after 2-3 days, if there are no signs of damage, treat the entire plant);
• with an unsuccessful stock (for example, if a distant relative of lemon trifoliate is used in this capacity, which sheds leaves in winter, so you need to be careful when buying grafted plants).

It is better not to wait for the lemon to drop all the leaves, but to take all possible measures to stop this process. But if in the spring summer period the lemon nevertheless completely dropped the foliage and this is not connected with the need to transplant it, then the plant is moved to partial shade and, having sprinkled the leaves with water, covered with polyethylene. Spraying is repeated daily and 2 times a week is poured over with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. At the same time, it is important to prevent excessive waterlogging of the soil.

When dropping foliage in the autumn-winter period, the plant is transferred to a dark room, where the air temperature does not exceed 12 ° C and air humidity is not higher than in a residential area. The soil is kept moist. In February, the vessel is immersed (by 1/3) in a basin of hot water (50 ° C), replacing the cooled water during the day. At night, lemon is brought into the room. The next day, the vessel is heated again. On the third day, it is installed at the window, while arranging the lower heating (20 ... 25 ° C). After 2-3 days, the soil is watered (until completely saturated) with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and the stem of the plant (at a height of 15-20 cm) is bandaged with a clean rag soaked in warm water. The cloth is kept moist until young leaves appear. After that, the bandage is removed and the heating is stopped.

The lemon fruit can stay on the plant for up to two years. Ripening after 8-12 months and not being plucked, it turns green, and by the end of the second year it turns yellow again. In this case, the lemon increases in volume due to the thickening of the peel.

Falling fruitlets (ovaries) may be related:

• with a lack of nutrients (more often they do top dressing with a solution of slurry, and in addition, they count the number of leaves that “feed” the fruit, and if there are less than 10, then immediately remove the excess ovary. It is impossible to leave more than 2-3 fruits per 1 in the year of transplantation. plant.
• with a high temperature during flowering (more than 16 ... 18 ° C) and during fruit growth (more than 18 ... 22 ° C) (isolate the plant and ventilate the room more often). It is useful once a day with the help of cotton wool to moisten the stalk of the fetus with warm water.
• with a high degree of pest infestation.

In Russia indoor citrus growing is almost three hundred years old, because lemons were brought to the country under Peter I. And now we have many lovers who grow this evergreen fruit-bearing plant in a room or on an insulated loggia in pots or tubs.

perennial lemon Tree blooms quite profusely, but its flowers, as a rule, are not conspicuous, since during this period they are usually completely covered with leaves. But you instantly feel that the air of the room is filled with a fabulous aroma. And even if you enter a room with a large set of indoor plants, then in this case, the hard, leathery, shiny leaves of the lemon tree immediately attract attention, even if it has not yet begun to bloom. And even if this plant is "wild", i.e. not grafted, it is still unusually decorative, because it has beautiful emerald shiny leaves.

And it is no coincidence, apparently, in countries where citrus crops are grown, the bride is decorated with a large wreath of flowering branches lemon or orange. By the way, if blooming apple orchards we see from afar - for three or four hundred meters, then the fragrance of a flowering grove of lemons, presumably, spreads for many kilometers.

It should be recognized that growing lemons at home is not easy. Firstly, for this it is desirable to have a sufficient spacious room with good lighting. Secondly, homemade lemon requires more attention than ordinary indoor flowers. But at the same time, it has many advantages compared to them: it is more hardy and durable; the whole plant smells pleasant, releasing volatile essential oils that ozonize the surrounding air.

In room conditions, the oldest trees reach a height of 1.5 m, although in large rooms with huge bright windows, lemons grow to 3 m or more.

Growing lemon fruits is a rather long and painstaking process, so you need to be patient in advance to wait until the lemon tree finally gains strength and blooms, and the flowers form good size fruit.

When growing homemade lemon it is imperative to take into account its biological and varietal characteristics, know the agrotechnical methods of cultivation, methods of its reproduction and measures to protect against numerous pests and diseases.

We hope that after reading this article, the number of people growing this magnificent plant at home will increase significantly. Having started a lemonarium at home, in a few years you will be able to treat your family and friends with your own grown lemon fruits. After all, a normally formed five-seven-year-old lemon tree can give an amateur citrus grower from 15 to 50 fruits per year (depending on the variety).

Lemon is a small tree or shrub with strong, usually thorny branches. At the tops of its young shoots, the color is purple-violet. Leaves are oval, oblong, toothed; have many glands containing essential oil. Their change on the plant occurs gradually (as they age): the leaf lives for about 2-3 years. Lemon flowers are bisexual, arranged singly, in pairs or in small racemes, they are large (4-5 cm in diameter). The bud grows and develops for about five weeks, the flower blooms for at least 7-9 weeks. The period of growth and development of the fetus from setting (falling flower petals) to the onset of maturation in room conditions at spring bloom plants can last up to 230 days. In summer (optimal temperature and better lighting), this period is reduced to 180-200 days. If in the first year a young, recently grafted tree gives flowers, they should be cut off (better when they are still in buds) so that the plant does not waste its strength and saves them for further normal development. With secondary flowering, the buds are no longer removed; most often, the tree itself decides how much it can “feed” fruits, and how many “extra” flowers it needs to discard.

It is recommended to allow flowering and fruiting of a lemon if it has at least 20 full-fledged leaves.

Fruits on a lemon are formed both with pollination of flowers and without pollination - parthenocarpic (in this case, seeds are not formed in fruits). Lemon fruits are oval or egg-shaped. Their skin, when ripe, acquires a light yellow color and a strong lemon smell. Their flesh is usually greenish, divided into 9-14 slices, very juicy and sour. Seeds of irregular ovoid shape, white, covered with a parchment-like shell.

There is a close relationship between the number of fruits and the number of leaves on a tree. It has been established that for the normal growth and development of each lemon fruit in the crown of a tree there must be at least 9-10 mature (physiologically active) leaves.

When growing lemons, care for the plant should be such that leaves do not fall off it. Most often this happens in the winter. The state of lemon trees can be judged by the degree of their foliage: the more healthy leaves on a tree, the better it grows and bears fruit. Without leaves, the plant will not be able to bear fruit: if, under adverse conditions, a lemon loses many leaves, then next year it will not form fruits. Therefore, the main task in winter is to preserve the leaf apparatus of the tree.

The full ripening of lemons is fully evidenced by their characteristic intensely golden peel, the color of which is given by carotenoids - sources of vitamin A. After full ripening, the fruits, as a rule, do not fall off, continue to grow next year. But, increasing in size, they at the same time worsen their qualities (the peel thickens greatly, the flesh dries up and becomes flabby, the juice becomes less acidic).

Under normal conditions, a lemon grows, blooms and bears fruit throughout the year, so the same plant can have ripe fruits, young ovaries, flowers and buds at the same time. The period necessary for the ripening of fruits, and it begins from the moment they are set, largely depends on the period of flowering and setting. The ripening of fruits during the flowering of lemon in the summer months occurs 1-2 months faster than in the spring. The time from setting to fruit ripening can vary widely (7-14 months). Experienced amateur flower growers know how to regulate the timing of lemon flowering, skillfully applying various techniques, for example, temporary drying of a tree. So, a dried (up to the initial degree of wilting of the leaves) tree stops growth and flowering and enters into a forced rest, in which craftsmen can keep it for some time. If after that they give abundant watering, then the lemon begins vigorous growth and abundant flowering.

It is very important when growing a lemon in a tub culture to achieve its dwarfism, especially since the lemon tends to form very powerful, long (not branching only at the top) branches, so it will need to be cut regularly: without this, the shoots make the crown very voluminous. According to experts, it is advisable to prune all strong tree growths after 5-6 leaves, which makes the crown more compact, mechanically strong and productive. Systematic care is also required for the roots (it is carried out, as a rule, during transplantation), as they ensure the vital activity of the plant. With abnormal development of the root system, the growth of the lemon is inhibited, the color of the leaves changes, etc.

Lifespan indoor lemon under favorable conditions can be quite large. For example, I saw in the city of Pushkin a remarkable almost three-meter 30-year-old tree, it grows in a greenhouse and is, one might say, in its heyday. Several hundred fruits hang on it at the same time.

As a rule, diseases and pests play a significant role in reducing the longevity of plants. If the owners treat their pet lemon with care, as a family member, then under favorable conditions, the life expectancy of the tree may well be 35-45 years.

Being a southern plant, the lemon tree will certainly give a good harvest of fruits in room conditions, if it is provided with good care and all the conditions necessary for normal life. But I’ll immediately notice: he makes quite high demands on heat, moisture and light. Optimum temperature for the growth of leaves and shoots of lemon is about 17 ° C, and for the development of fruits 21 ... 22 ° C. Very high air temperatures are harmful to lemon, the plant reacts especially negatively if the temperature rises sharply with a simultaneous low relative humidity. This happens in the spring months and early summer - this is caused by a sharp warming on the street. A similar phenomenon can lead to the fall of flowers and ovaries, and a strong temperature drop in the autumn and winter months - and foliage.

Soil temperature should also be close to air temperature; especially harmful is the sharp lag of soil temperature from air temperature. A similar thing happens when a tub of lemon, standing long time in summer and even autumn in the open air, when it gets cold, they immediately bring it into a warm living room. Sometimes he reacts to this by dropping foliage.

Lemon is sensitive to fluctuations in indoor air humidity. He reacts negatively to its deficiency, which is the most dangerous (especially when high temperature) during flowering and fruit set. This causes shedding of flowers and ovaries. Some experts believe that the higher the humidity, the longer the lemon leaves live.

Lemon is a short daylight plant; he is quite reconciled with the lack of sunlight. With a long daylight hours, its growth intensifies, and fruiting is delayed. most favorable for indoor cultivation are considered windows on the south and east sides. On the south side in summer it receives a lot of light, but it should be shaded with a gauze curtain from direct sunlight (this is especially important during the midday hours). Some experts consider the eastern side to be universal: its morning sun rays, although bright, are not so scorching, and such lighting is enough for plants.

In order not to grow a one-sided tree, it is recommended to turn the box with the plant at a small angle every fortnight. Although, due to this procedure, the growth of shoots and leaves is somewhat inhibited (the lemon is very sensitive to changes in lighting and rearrangement from place to place), but the plant is formed in the correct shape. Other experts advise making turns of about 10 ° every 10 days: then it will take a year for the plant to complete a rotation. It should also be borne in mind that the lemon is sensitive to a sharp change in lighting: with a decrease in its intensity, the size of new leaves increases.

During the winter period, the lemon will not interfere with daylight (5-6 hours) with a fluorescent lamp (or a 100-150 W incandescent bulb), which is placed at a height of 60-80 cm above the plant.

The period from October to March is the most difficult for plants; due to non-compliance with the conditions of detention during this period, they often die. In winter, with battery heating, the air in the room is dry, so it is better to move the plants away from the heaters (sometimes the batteries are covered with a damp cloth); you can spray the leaf surface with a spray gun. However, it must be remembered that excessive spraying of the leaf surface, especially the Meyer variety, can contribute to the development of fungal diseases. It also does not hurt to keep water on the surface of the soil in a pot (or nearby) in a wide bowl for evaporation. In summer, it is advisable to wash the leaves in the shower at least once every 1-2 weeks or gently wipe them with a damp cloth so that they are clean and breathe deeply.

A lemon tree has been grown in the same soil for several years, so a properly selected substrate for it, as well as fertilizing with fertilizer mixtures, are of great importance for its normal life. We will talk about this later.

Alexander Lazarev,
candidate biological sciences,
Senior Researcher, All-Russian Research Institute of Plant Protection, Pushkin

If desired, everyone can grow a lemon tree at home. Home care is not particularly difficult, but there are certain points, of course. If everything is done correctly, then in the 5th or 7th year you can wait for the fruits from your own grown plant. The leaves of the evergreen lemon tree emit phytoncides, freshen the air of the room, exude a delicate, unobtrusive aroma.

Fragrant, tasty, healthy citrus is familiar to everyone, we see its bright yellow fruits on store shelves all year round. Lemon is good as a fruit, applicable as a prophylactic drug, tasty as candied candied fruits, but simply beautiful, like an exotic indoor tree. However, even dark green leathery lemon leaves look beautiful, and at the same time have a beneficial effect on the human body.

Lemon tree, photo:

Depending on the variety, the lemon tree can be different sizes. If the goal is precisely the fruits, and not just a decorative function, then there are two ways to get the result. Citrus grown from cuttings will begin to bear fruit earlier (with proper care), but the plant from the seed will be healthier and more actively developing.

If you do not want to bother with the process of germination / cultivation, then you can purchase ready-made lemon seedlings in specialized departments and stores. You can buy a lemon tree in an online store that belongs to botanical garden, for example, or from amateur breeders. If you are not looking for easy ways, you are interested in the process of plant birth itself, then you will find information on how to do it in another article. The planting method itself is not very different from the technology for growing other citrus crops.

Lemon tree care?

An important step in care proper lighting at home. The permanent location of the lemon should be well lit, but direct sunlight should still be avoided. How to care for a lemon tree? Try to decide ahead of time permanent place residence of the plant, as it does not like to be moved. In order for the crown to develop evenly, it is allowed to gently turn the lemon towards the light. This process must be done slowly and gradually.

For harmonious growth and development, the plant at home must be transplanted annually. Each time, the container should be larger, during transplanting, the roots and soil are carefully moved into a new pot, the missing amount of earth is filled up to the required volume. The soil for indoor lemon should be similar in composition to the previous soil.

When the plant reaches a certain size, and the pot will hold 10 liters, then transplants can be stopped. Now you only have to periodically renew the top layer of soil (twice a year), feed the plant with fertilizers (Vermisol, Humisol, Biohumus - for citrus crops).

Caring for a young tree at home at first does not include top dressing, but with the onset of summer time, you can add a little fertilizer to the water for irrigation. The plant is very capricious, it needs a delicate approach regarding ambient temperature and moisture. There should be no sudden drops - a little something is wrong - the plant will react with the loss of leaves.

How to prune a lemon tree? Pruning forms a crown, prevents it from growing to large sizes, which is very important if you have small apartment. Crown care should be started from a young age, when the plant reaches 20-30 cm in height. Thus, the top of the tree is cut off, side shoots are cut off at the level of the 5th leaf, the lower branches (those that are close to the soil) are also removed - this makes it possible to fully develop the trunk.

If you see a “bust” of crown splendor on one of the sides, then carefully cut off the excess, give the tree the desired shape. Branch pruning is always done just above the leaf. The lower branches should be longer than the upper ones. Pruning should be carried out only when it is really required (stimulation of the growth of new branches, rejuvenation of the old tree). Frequent pruning of branches can weaken the plant.

Should a lemon tree be pruned according to the time of year? There are several approaches to this process: the best time for pruning is spring. March is the best. Often, pruning is done during lemon flowering, budding. Winter pruning is also used: if the plant is already bearing fruit, then it must be produced after harvesting.

Lemon blooms very profusely and spreads a truly magical aroma. The indoor plant lemon tree has bisexual flowers, so fruit set occurs by itself. If you want to increase the yield, then you can apply the technique of artificial pollination. To do this, the flowers must be ripe, using a soft brush, collect pollen from the stamens and carefully transfer it to the pistil (on the sticky top). This is a rather monotonous process, but very effective. Additionally, you can insure yourself with fruit formation stimulants and plant growth regulators - fertilizers Ovary and Bud (spraying).

The ideal temperature for the growth of foliage and branches is +16..18ºC, for the harmonious development of fruits - 22..23ºC. Sudden temperature fluctuations, very high, as well as too low, have an extremely negative effect on the general condition of the lemon tree.

The soil temperature at home should be about the same as the air temperature. Sometimes a lemon is taken out to "ventilate", for example, on a balcony, and then brought into a room - this is undesirable. Such changes are stressful for the lemon. It reacts by dropping leaves. Because the cold earth and warm room air form an unfavorable temperature difference.

How to water a lemon tree at home?

The most vigilant lemon care extends from autumn to spring (October-March). In winter, batteries and heating devices are actively working at home, which dry the air. For this reason, the plant should be placed away from sources of active heat, the batteries should sometimes be covered with a damp cloth and the crown should be irrigated daily with water. Such care also requires compliance with the measure, because excessive moisture of the lemon threatens the development of the fungus. You can also place water containers next to the pots - the evaporation of moisture has a beneficial effect on the plant. With the onset of summer heat, lemon leaves are recommended to be wiped with a damp cloth.

How often to water a lemon at home? Here you need to adhere to the golden mean - do not allow the soil to dry out and do not flood it beyond measure. Boiled water at room temperature is suitable for irrigation, twice a week will be enough. If it so happened that you overdid it with watering (the soil began to rot), then you need to change the soil in the pot as soon as possible. Clay pots are ideal containers for growing lemons at home, they evaporate excess moisture well and allow the soil to "breathe".

If the lemon dries

Sometimes on gardening forums you can see requests for help: “the lemon tree dries, what should I do ?!” - often this situation arises again from a lack of moisture and dryness of the air in the room. Improper care: lack of lighting, stagnation of water in the soil are secondary causes of lemon drying. Sometimes such unfavorable changes can occur due to the attack of a pest - spider mite.

If we know how to cope with the lack of moisture, then more drastic measures are needed to combat the tick. The treatment of the lemon tree with insecticides will put an end to the harvest, since after it it will not be possible to eat the fruits. But there is a way out - ultraviolet (UV lamp) kills spider mites in 2-3 minutes, and such a short "irradiation" of the plant at home will be enough.

The cause of drying out can also be the seasonal acclimatization of the plant. We'll have to cut off the dried branches. And in the spring, new shoots will appear in their place. The lack of micro and macro elements is also expressed in the form of drying, the introduction necessary dressings and balanced fertilizer solves this problem. Nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium additives or Root Feeder (KP-5) fertilizer will help the tree come to life and get all the missing nutrients.

As we can see, a lemon requires careful care and compliance with the rules of cultivation, but the result of such efforts cannot but rejoice. beautiful plant with vitamin fruits - a worthy gift that the lemon tree gives us. behind it is not so complicated, if you know all the nuances.

Lemon is a subtropical plant and the climate of the apartment is perfect for it. Despite this, caring for a lemon in a pot is different from growing it naturally.

Consider how to care for a lemon at home so that your plant grows healthy and that the lemon bears fruit.

Seedling selection

With the acquisition of a seedling of lemon, do not rush. You should choose a healthy-looking plant with brightly colored, shiny leaves.

Examine carefully the stem, the reverse side of the leaf.

They must be clean, free of visible pests and disease.

Boarding and seat selection

Having planted the plant in open ground, be sure to water it abundantly, make sure that direct sunlight does not fall on it.

If the weather conditions are not very good (rainstorm, strong wind, etc.) it is better to build a small shelter and leave for a few days until the lemon tree takes root in a new place.

AT open field Plants meet their needs through their natural environment. Much harder to create favorable conditions for growing lemon at home.

ADVICE: Do not rush to transplant the purchased decorative seedling of a lemon tree (for indoor cultivation). Let it adapt to your home.

Approach responsibly to the choice of a place for a plant. Do not place indoor lemon in dangerous places:

• in a draft;
• near heating appliances;
• in an unlit corner or dark corridor;
• between closed curtains and a window in cold weather.

ADVICE: Inspect the seedling daily, spray it with water. AT hot weather 2 times a day. After a few days, the plant must be transplanted.

Features of care in different periods of the year

Consider how to care for a lemon at home, depending on the time of year.

In spring, the plant wakes up and begins to grow actively. He needs more light.

On warm days, lemon can be taken out to fresh air.

The room must be ventilated, as the inflow fresh air necessary for good growth citrus fruits.

After watching the video, you can learn how to help your lemon in spring:

In summer, it is best to dig a lemon tree in the garden or in the country. If this is not possible, it is necessary to rearrange it to a balcony or terrace.

With over 25 years of experience growing lemons at home, this "summer vacation" gives a powerful boost to plants for the whole year.

In the fall, before returning the lemon home, we inspect the entire plant well, if necessary, treat it with chemicals. Be sure to arrange a warm shower, wash the leaves well, and the stems from dust and dirt.

We return to our usual place and continue caring for indoor lemon in a pot. Gradually reduce watering and fertilizing plants.

In winter, most often the plants are in a dormant period. But one of my lemons leaves with fruits in the winter and therefore the dormant period for it comes after the harvest.

I feed this plant for the entire period of fruiting and, if necessary, organize illumination for 2-3 hours daily. The rest of the plants rest during the winter.

Comfortable temperature for lemons during this period is within 14 - 16 degrees.

Winters in Siberia are long and cold. It is not always possible to save plants in the winter. Some branches dry up. Do not rush to prune such plants. Very often, a dried branch comes to life.

In the photo below you can see examples of home-grown dwarf lemons:

Maybe due to the fact that growing a lemon tree is not easy in our latitudes, citrus pruning is not practiced. But if desired, for better branching and crown formation, pruning can be done in early spring.

How to prune a plant at home can be found on our website.

Why does the lemon not bloom and bear fruit?

Often novice flower growers are faced with the fact that the lemon does not bloom.

Why isn't the lemon blooming? There are several reasons: the first and most basic - the plant was planted with a stone and not grafted.

How to make lemon bloom at home? In order for a plant grown from a stone to bloom, many years must pass or it must be grafted.

Also, your plant may be planted in poor soil and it lacks mineral fertilizers. Very dry air, pests, diseases…

Watch your pet and the plant itself will tell you the reason.

I bought my first lemon on vacation in Adjara. It was a grafted 3-4 year old seedling of Pavlovsky lemon, all in bloom and with small fruits. It so happened that the plant had to be handed over to the storage room for a day. When the plant was returned to me, I almost burst into tears - the leaves, flowers, the ovary all fell off. I kept the lemon, but it only bloomed after 5 years.

ATTENTION: If you are transporting a plant from one place to another, be prepared for the fact that it may not bloom in due time.

Lighting

If your plant does not have enough light, it will have small and pale leaves, small flowers or none at all, lower leaves yellow color, the plant practically does not grow or the shoots are weak and very elongated.

Lemons are best suited southeast windows with bright diffused light and a small amount direct sunlight. If there is no possibility of natural light, then for the normal cultivation of lemons it is necessary to organize artificial lighting. It is best to use fluorescent lamps.

Lemon is not very whimsical to air temperature - in winter it is enough for 14 - 16 degrees, in summer it can also tolerate 30 degree heat.

IMPORTANT: It is necessary that the difference between day and night temperatures should not be more than 4-6 degrees. This is especially dangerous for flowering plants.

In winter, it is necessary to insulate the window on which the plant stands, on very cold days, remove the lemon from the windowsill, do not close it tightly window curtains. Warm air from the room must penetrate to the plant.

Air humidity

Humidity is another important factor in growing lemons.

This problem is especially relevant in the winter months.

In apartments with central heating the air becomes so dry that many plants are very hard to tolerate such conditions.

The air in the room must be constantly humidified. It is better to use industrial humidifiers.

If it is not possible to buy such a device, use the knowledge of experienced flower growers:

1. Spray your plants with warm water (necessarily settled) 2-3 times a day;
2. Pour expanded clay into the pan, moisten it with water and place the flower pot in this pan. Expanded clay keep constantly wet;
3. Group several colors - the humidity will increase;
4. You can move the lemon to the kitchen, where the humidity is much higher.

ADVICE: During the flowering of a lemon tree, many sources recommend pollinating flowers with cotton swabs.

For pollination, you need to take a cotton swab. Trying not to damage the flowers, carefully collect pollen from one flower and transfer it to another, then to the third and all subsequent ones. However, in all the years of growing these plants, I have never used this method. Pollination happens by itself.

Watering

At different people your own drinking regime. The same can be said about plants. All houseplants need watering to one degree or another. Some like rare watering, others water often and abundantly.

If you ask beginner gardeners about the most common cause of plant death, most of them will say: - "Dry!" But much more often plants die from improper watering.

If we notice something wrong with our plant, we begin to water it abundantly. In response to this, the leaves wilt and turn yellow, and we continue to believe that the plant lacks moisture, and water it again.

Over time, in such plants, the earthen ball turns into a swamp, the roots rot and the plant dies.

How to water a lemon so that it grows healthy, develops and bears fruit?

The most important rule is to water the lemon abundantly with settled water, the water temperature should not be lower than room temperature.

Water only when the top layer of the earth dries out no less than 1-2 cm. After watering, let the water drain, loosen the top layer of the earth and only spray the leaves for the next days.

In order for the plant to develop well and grow, it is necessary to replant it in a timely manner, renew the soil for it.

IMPORTANT: Never use unsterilized soil for planting indoor plants.

It is best to buy a special mixture for planting citrus plants. How to prepare a soil mixture at home can be found on our website.

For lemons, good drainage and proper soil composition are important.

If you did everything as described above, but did not get the result, then your pet does not have enough nutrients. The plant must be constantly fed. In spring and summer, once a week, in autumn, once a month, in winter (if the plant is “resting”) we do not feed, if the plant has fruits or it blooms, regular top dressing is necessary.

You can find out how to care for a lemon tree with fruits at home and how to feed a plant at home on our website.

All for the sake of which we are starting this hard way- the fruits of our tree (lemons). It is as if we have achieved its flowering, but there is no ovary, the fruits are not formed.

How to pollinate a lemon at home and what else you can do:

1. Manual pollination with a cotton swab;
2. The use of the drug "Buton"

to stimulate fruit formation, preserve the ovary in adverse conditions;

3. The use of the drug "Kornerost, Heteroauxin"

to stimulate the growth of the root system, strengthen the whole plant.

And now our lemon has faded, the ovary has appeared and - Oh, horror !!! The tie falls off. Why?

Several reasons are possible:

• if the plant blooms for the first time and only a few flowers, as a rule, these will be empty flowers. Do not rush, wait for real flowering;
• if the lemon blooms profusely and a lot of ovaries - the plant itself regulates the number of fruits it needs;
• if already formed, grown fruits fall, your plant lacks light, nutrition, or it gets sick (plants also get sick). Perhaps there are pests on the lemon.

If your lemon has faded, fruit has begun on it, wait for the harvest.

Lemon ripening is not a quick matter. Lemons grow slowly, be patient for a few months.

To know when to pick lemons from house tree enough to take a good look at the fruits. Well-ripened lemon fruits are bright yellow, the color is uniform.

If the lemon is ripe, it easily separates from the stalk.

ADVICE: Often gardeners ask the question: "The lemon does not grow, what should I do?" If your tree is not growing well or not moving at all, pay attention to how the plant is planted.

Perhaps during the transplant, you buried the vaccination site in the ground. Immediately remove the top layer of the earth and release the growth point.

In order to speed up the fruiting process, a seedling grown from a seed must be grafted. If you do not own this procedure, it is better to contact specialists.

Learn how to graft decorative lemon you can watch the video below:

A lemon seedling is transplanted in the spring as needed. Consider when a Lemon transplant is needed and what care is needed at home.

I know three conditions necessary for transplantation:

• the root system has grown, and the roots appeared in the holes of the pot;
• after watering, the plant dries very quickly;
• the plant wilts.

IMPORTANT: If you take a previously used pot for transplantation, it must be washed well and disinfected. The pot for transplanting should be slightly larger than the one in which the lemon grew. Plant transplantation can be easily done at home.

Care indoor plants involves more than just watering and fertilizing.

Lemon must be periodically washed from dust and dirt.

Dust not only spoils the appearance, but also makes it difficult for the normal development of the plant. It is also necessary to tie branches with fruits to a support, in order to avoid breakage of branches.

Inspect plants regularly, clean the crown of your tree from dead leaves and dried flowers.

Where do plant diseases come from? Most of the time, we are to blame.

There are several reasons. These are unfavorable conditions for growing plants. They bought a sick plant, and, unable to withstand the quarantine, they placed others with other indoor plants.

Lemon fruits are a storehouse of vitamins. Eating brings health and vitality.

REFERENCE: They drink tea with lemon and use it in cooking. Lemon is often used in various recipes recovery.

Growing a lemon tree at home, we get the opportunity not only to have wonderful fruits. The smell of blooming lemon fills the entire apartment with a fabulous aroma.

Is there any harm in growing lemon at home?

I would not advise keeping a profusely flowering plant in the bedroom. There may be headaches. That's all.

You can watch a video with a detailed story about the benefits and harms that a lemon can bring:

In conclusion, I would like to say if you are for your lemon tree:

• create the required temperature regime;
• provide an appropriate light regime;
• ensure timely watering;
• you will maintain the necessary humidity;
• give your seedlings the necessary mineral fertilizers;
• give them rest;
• provide access to fresh air;
• you will take care of the appearance of your plants;

And as a result, it will thank you abundant flowering and beneficial fruits.

Do you love lemons? The answer to this question will certainly be positive, because it is not without reason that tons of bright yellow fruits with a unique aroma and bright taste are exported to our country every year.

In Russia, sour citrus fruits have not been considered rare for a long time. Noble gentlemen of the 16th century sipped lemon tea with pleasure, ate candied fruit slices, and enterprising housewives added citrus zest to liqueurs and jams “for flavor”. However, we began to grow lemons only thanks to Peter I. The great tsar, a big fan of plant exoticism, more than once ordered lemon seedlings from Holland for the palace greenhouse. Did he think that after several centuries, anyone could grow a citrus tree on a windowsill? Nevertheless, this is true: indoor lemons feel great in captivity, delight their owners with good harvests and, releasing phytoncides, disinfect indoor air. And how good they are at the time of flowering! Delicate flowers white or cream color open for 7-9 weeks, spreading a magical fragrance around them. By the way, in nature, the aroma of a flowering lemon grove can be heard for several kilometers.

Some flower growers consider lemon a shrew culture. It's not exactly like that! Problems with the cultivation of sour citrus arise only due to insufficient or improper care, which means that an exotic guest should be given a decent welcome.

Conditions of detention

If you purchased in flower shop already grown lemon tree, first transplant the newcomer from the transport substrate into a sterilized soil mixture composed of garden soil, peat and sand (2: 2: 1) or in a special soil for citrus fruits. Do not forget to lay a layer of pebbles or expanded clay on the bottom of the pot for drainage. The best place for indoor lemon - the southern or eastern window sill, since the key to the full development of the plant is a long daylight hours. However, the tree should spend hot afternoons in cool partial shade. So that the lemon does not grow one-sided, the pot should be rotated 10 ° every ten days.

As for the ambient temperature, the lemon is rightfully considered the most cold-resistant member of the genus Citrus. It successfully develops leaves at +17°C and forms buds at +14…+18°C, but it needs heat to fill and ripen fruits. When tiny ovaries appear in place of the flowers, the temperature in the room will need to be raised to + 23 ... + 26 ° C. In the warm season, a tub with a tree can be taken out into the open air. When looking for a place in the garden for him, keep in mind that the lemon does not tolerate drafts and sudden temperature changes. During the winter dormancy, it is recommended to keep an exotic pet at a temperature of +12…+14 °C.

Watering and spraying

Like all citrus fruits grown in captivity, lemons require regular and abundant soil moisture. The procedure is carried out every 7–10 days, but at the same time, the soil in the pot should dry out slightly between waterings. In order to avoid exposing the roots, water is not served under the root, but is poured along the edge of the pot. The culture tolerates waterlogging and thirst equally hard, so disturb irrigation regime highly undesirable.

Beautiful leathery lemon leaves should be sprayed periodically, especially during the winter months when the air in the room is too dry with working heating appliances. Do not need to irrigate the crown only "sleeping" specimens wintering in the cool. Please note: for watering and spraying the plant, only soft (filtered or settled) water at room temperature should be used.

Top dressing lemon

During active vegetation, potted citrus must be fertilized heavily. Young specimens are fed every 40-45 days, adults - twice a month. From the second decade of October, the power supply is gradually reduced and by the beginning of " hibernation are canceled completely. But! If for some reason you were unable to provide the lemon with a cool dormant period, pamper it 2-3 times during the winter with a complex mineral fertilizer.

From organic matter, an ash extract, a two-three-day infusion of birch leaves (300–400 g of green raw materials per 1 liter of water) or fresh manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 10 can be used to feed the plant. To prevent root burns, for 2–3 hours before making nutritional compositions, lemon is recommended to be generously watered.

Important: with a violent growth of green mass and the absence of fruiting, nitrogen-containing fertilizers should be replaced with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Pruning specifics

The crown of a potted lemon is formed depending on the purpose of cultivation. If you gave the tree a role decorative element interior, branches can be cut short, but fruitful citrus should be quite sprawling.

So that in the future your pet will please you with an excellent harvest, form its crown in stages:

• When the central (zero) shoot reaches a height of 20 cm, pinch its top, leaving 3-4 healthy buds on the stem, from which skeletal shoots of the first order will then grow, directed in different directions.
• After a while, the branches of the first growth are pinched at a height of 20–30 cm, and after the wood has matured, they are cut off, stepping back from the place of pinching 4–5 cm.
• By the same principle, branches of the second, third and fourth growths are formed, but pay attention to an important detail: each subsequent skeletal shoot must be 5 cm shorter than its predecessor.

After the formation of the skeleton of the tree is completely completed, carry out regular sanitary pruning: remove weak, fattening and thickening shoots.

seed growing method

Most often in amateur flower collections they flaunt lemon trees grown from the seeds of store-bought fruits. If you want to experiment too, buy a ripe, evenly colored citrus and harvest the seeds from it. Rinse the seeds cleaned from the fruit pulp, dry slightly and sow in a light nutrient substrate to a depth of 1-2 cm. Arrange a container with crops on a warm, well-lit windowsill, and after 12-15 days strong bright green sprouts will appear from the ground.

Growing seedlings should be regularly watered with warm settled water and carefully loosen the soil around them. In phase 2 of true leaves, the plant dives into separate pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm. To create a favorable microclimate, each lemon is covered with a glass jar or a plastic bottle cut in half. Every day, the shelter is briefly removed to ventilate the seedlings.

In greenhouse conditions, young lemons grow until they reach a height of 15–20 cm, after which they will need to be moved to larger containers. The citrus pot should not be too large, otherwise the soil not occupied by the roots will begin to turn sour. The plant is planted in a new container along with the old one. earthy clod without deepening the root neck. The first fruits of a lemon grown from a stone will form only after 6-9 years.

cuttings

• Mature shoots 0.4 cm thick and 10 cm long are cut from an adult tree. Each cutting should have 2-3 leaves and 3-4 viable buds. Sections should be made directly above the upper and below the lower kidneys.
• The prepared material is treated with a root-forming preparation and placed in clean water for 3 days.
• After the time has elapsed, the cuttings are planted in a loose sand-earth (1: 1) mixture with a depth of 3 cm.
• Successful rooting of cuttings requires constant moderate soil moisture, daily spraying and warmth (about + 20 ... 25 ° C).
• After a month and a half, when the future trees form their own roots, they are seated in separate containers.

With proper care, lemons grown from cuttings will bear fruit in the third or fourth year.

Lemon propagation by grafting

Experienced flower growers prefer to propagate varietal lemons by grafting. This procedure is not particularly difficult, but it should be carried out in compliance with all the rules:

• As a rootstock, take a two-three-year-old seedling grown from a stone. The graft will be a cutting cut from an annual, not yet lignified shoot of an adult tree. Clean the scion sprig from the leaves, but leave the petioles.
• Make a T-shaped incision on the bark of the rootstock and carefully bend the edges of the resulting "pocket".
• With a scion, cut out the bud along with the petiole and a fragment of wood (shield) with a sharp knife.
• Insert the kidney into the T-incision and bandage the inoculation site with a tissue strip or budding tape, leaving the kidney out. For reliability, 2-3 buds can be grafted onto one stock.

The process of implantation of the kidney lasts about 20 days. Has the petiole of the grafted kidney turned yellow and dried up? This means that the vaccination went well. In this case, cut off the central shoot of the stock, stepping back from the grafting site 10–12 cm, and clean the stem from the branches that have grown below the “daughter” bud.

Pest control

Possible difficulties

Growing a lemon indoors is fun, but not easy. Sometimes a vigorous and elegant tree suddenly, for no apparent reason, begins to act up and get sick. The most common signs of citrus malaise are:

For growing in room culture, medium and small lemon varieties are best suited. The list of favorites includes cultivars of domestic and foreign selection:

• Pavlovsky is a legendary folk variety, bred more than a century ago in the village of Pavlovo, Nizhny Novgorod province. It is a compact tree with a rounded crown, reaching a height of 1.5–2 m. The yield of an adult well-groomed specimen is 20–40 fruits per year. Juicy, very palatable, pavlovian lemons weighing 120–150 g and about 10 cm long are covered with a glossy, slightly bumpy peel, which, if desired, can be eaten along with the pulp.
• Chinese dwarf (Meyer) is a natural hybrid of lemon and orange, ideal for growing indoors. A low (1–1.5 m) plant with a dense spherical crown and sparse spines. Under the bright orange or sunny yellow skin of medium-sized (100–150 g) fruits, juicy, slightly acidic pulp is hidden.
• Novogruzinsky - relatively new high yielding variety. At good care a tall (up to 2 m) branched tree produces annually 100–200 bright yellow elliptical fruits.
• Maikopsky is a very unpretentious undersized (up to 1.3 m) variety. Oblong-oval fruits, slightly thickened at the bottom, reach a weight of 150–170 g.
• Genoa is an Italian variety brought to Russia from America. Charming "baby" 120-130 cm high with a beautiful dense crown, almost devoid of thorns. Elongated greenish-yellow fruits
• Lisbon is a fast-growing Portuguese variety that has received recognition from Australian growers. A two-meter tree with strong prickly shoots and a dense, leafy crown. Oval fruits weighing 150–200 g are covered with a yellow ribbed skin. A distinctive quality of the cultivar is its good adaptability to adverse growing conditions.
• Jubilee - a hybrid of the Uzbek selection, bred with the participation of the Novogruzinsky and Tashkent varieties. skoroplodnoe unpretentious plant with large (500–700 g) fruits. Grows well in the shade.
• Lunario is a highly productive Sicilian full moon hybrid of papeda and lemon (hence the name). It is a half-meter tree, the shoots of which are densely dotted with small thorns. Under the glossy bright yellow peel hides a dryish, but very fragrant pulp of a slightly acidic taste.
• Ponderosa is an early and very unpretentious natural hybrid that arose as a result of crossing lemon and citron. It is a sprawling tree 1.5–1.8 m high with rounded fruits covered with thick, bumpy skin. Distinctive features are precocity and high demands on the composition of the substrate.
• Willa Franca is an American leafy hybrid 130 cm high with small (no more than 100 g) oblong fruits. The pulp is juicy, fragrant.
• Irkutsk large-fruited - Russian light-loving variety with giant fruits (from 0.7 to 1.5 kg!). A compact, medium-sized tree that does not require formative pruning.
• Kursky is another masterpiece of domestic selection, bred on the basis of the Novogruzinsky variety. High-yielding, early-ripening hybrid, reaching a height of 1.5–1.8 m with thin-skinned fruits. Resistant to light deficiency and slight temperature changes.
• Commune is a highly productive Italian variety that enjoys well-deserved popularity in its homeland.

It is likely that, having tried varietal lemons of your own harvest, you will forever give up purchased fruits and arrange a fragrant citrus grove on your home windowsill. We wish you success!